8:02 I remember I used to do that when my car was running. This time, I will add a fuel pump kill switch near the driver area. Also I never premixed and that's something I will definitely start doing since we got rid of the Oil Metering Pump in this latest rebuild!
im from oz. it was common to see ( on imported FC from japan ) they used a fix that was a solenoid and tee between the rails . ie . when the engine turned off it dumped the fuel rail pressure back into the return line, bypassing the regulator.. kinda backwards way of getting around injectors that leaked down , but there you go . not as dumb as first looks as it avoids the flood in the first place
Note If the wankel won't start 1 try to pull the leading plue on both 1 and 2 put some trans oil with a spray oil can in not a lot this will help to draw in more fuel in { your a pex seals maybe sticking when hot}
Thanks for the tip. We used that method to get it to run after the engine was initially rebuilt. It worked then. After putting several hundred miles on the engine for the seals to seat, that method no longer works. I have some other videos on that whole learning process. It was a lengthy journey to be sure.
The TPS sensor is out of calibration. That is why it won't start. It is sending extra fuel to the injectors.. calibration needed 0 to 5 volts maximum fuel. Adjust the pump relay bust to 3degrees
Turn on the car connect to the TPS sensor with a voltmeter the red and black negative the green and orange at 7 rpm the meter must read . .9 dc Volt's. Almost a volt. If it reads 5 and you can't adjust the TPS sensor is shot
Thanks, bro. There are a lot more videos on this car. You might check them out. I replaced the TPS (along with 100 other things) in later videos. Thanks for tuning in, and thanks for the comment!
Yep. Well, solved the issue? Not sure. But it masked it enough that it always starts. This is an s4. I believe the s5 has a fuel shutoff built into the ecu (push throttle to the floor to activate).
Your problem is right on your steering column there's a relay that's the fuel pump relay disconnected and it will start right up it has leaking injectors take my word for it
That is definitely possible. I plan to check them out at some point. However, this is the second set of fuel injectors. These ones are brand new. And we tested them before installing them. So while it remains a possibility, I'm less certain than you are. :)
@@some-guys-garage okay that's great the next step is you check to see that all your accessories are letter 318 your air flow meter your map sensor your crank angle and verify your injectors that they are low impedance because that computer is low impedance
@@some-guys-garage the last one will be take your dipstick out of your oil engine and smell it if it smells like fuel that means that you wash your compression away with all the fuel change the oil with a heavy 2050 if that doesn't fix it that means it was a bad rebuild
8:02 I remember I used to do that when my car was running. This time, I will add a fuel pump kill switch near the driver area. Also I never premixed and that's something I will definitely start doing since we got rid of the Oil Metering Pump in this latest rebuild!
Funny thing, those rotaries...
Just got a 1988 fc and this was a brilliant idea truth be told perfect to de flood engine without having to disconnect old harness wires
Good luck with 1988!
im from oz. it was common to see ( on imported FC from japan ) they used a fix that was a solenoid and tee between the rails . ie . when the engine turned off it dumped the fuel rail pressure back into the return line, bypassing the regulator.. kinda backwards way of getting around injectors that leaked down , but there you go . not as dumb as first looks as it avoids the flood in the first place
Interesting. Thanks for the insights.
well made video
Thanks!
S4 FC issue..floods, fix is easy to switch across the fuelpump relay coil.
S5 was corrected by factory.
Yeah, we fought that problem way too long. ua-cam.com/video/4rjw1xRc0zo/v-deo.html
Run a switch on the front fuel pump relay! 8:18
You are 100% correct. What I did that day was sub-optimal. I corrected it. Check this out: ua-cam.com/video/4rjw1xRc0zo/v-deo.html
Note If the wankel won't start 1 try to pull the leading plue on both 1 and 2 put some trans oil with a spray oil can in not a lot this will help to draw in more fuel in { your a pex seals maybe sticking when hot}
Thanks for the tip. We used that method to get it to run after the engine was initially rebuilt. It worked then. After putting several hundred miles on the engine for the seals to seat, that method no longer works. I have some other videos on that whole learning process. It was a lengthy journey to be sure.
That will work in the short term but teams fluid is no good for other important deals.
The TPS sensor is out of calibration. That is why it won't start. It is sending extra fuel to the injectors.. calibration needed 0 to 5 volts maximum fuel. Adjust the pump relay bust to 3degrees
Interesting idea, for sure. Thanks.
Turn on the car connect to the TPS sensor with a voltmeter the red and black negative the green and orange at 7 rpm the meter must read . .9 dc Volt's. Almost a volt. If it reads 5 and you can't adjust the TPS sensor is shot
Thanks, bro. There are a lot more videos on this car. You might check them out. I replaced the TPS (along with 100 other things) in later videos.
Thanks for tuning in, and thanks for the comment!
What is the name of the shop. I am buying an FC and really want a good rotory guy to take my car to.
That's Performance R&D on about 13th south in SLC.
So a toggle switch for fuel pump solved the issue?
Is this S5 or S5 ?
Yep. Well, solved the issue? Not sure. But it masked it enough that it always starts. This is an s4. I believe the s5 has a fuel shutoff built into the ecu (push throttle to the floor to activate).
S4, US spec mirrors and rear lights.
JDM S4 not have the high stop light between the rear lights..must have been a US requirement.
Your problem is right on your steering column there's a relay that's the fuel pump relay disconnected and it will start right up it has leaking injectors take my word for it
That is definitely possible. I plan to check them out at some point. However, this is the second set of fuel injectors. These ones are brand new. And we tested them before installing them. So while it remains a possibility, I'm less certain than you are. :)
@@some-guys-garage did you check to see if your fuel pressure was not any more than 42 LB
Yes. I have a pressure regulator on it. It's actually set at 44lbs.
@@some-guys-garage okay that's great the next step is you check to see that all your accessories are letter 318 your air flow meter your map sensor your crank angle and verify your injectors that they are low impedance because that computer is low impedance
@@some-guys-garage the last one will be take your dipstick out of your oil engine and smell it if it smells like fuel that means that you wash your compression away with all the fuel change the oil with a heavy 2050 if that doesn't fix it that means it was a bad rebuild
Comps should be 120 with a new build.
Thx. I'm getting over 120 now after running it for a while. Seals needed to seat.