best DIY video I have seen on youtube. no extra BS, But best of all, you started at the beginning- including showing needed tools, and a actually did the ENTIRE project on camera. 2 thumbs up
after watching this I thought I could do this successfully, when I tried it I managed in 2 to 3 hours work which is great accomplishment for me. Thank you for your channel.
Yep third video I have used from Roy, he is great. Doesn’t try to be an influencer or add a lot of personality, just does, and explains very well, what we came here to see!
I just want everyone to know I JUST completed this repair WITHOUT removing the master cylinder. I will mention that there was some tugging and prying so if trying to do this without removing the master cylinder BE VERY CAREFUL OF YOUR BRAKE LINES!! I managed to pull the booster out and put the new one in no problem and I didn’t have to bleed after! Good luck everyone and remember: All repairs are done AT YOUR OWN RISK. Thanks again for the video sir! Well done!
Hi Roy, thanks for your videos! I did this yesterday on my 2003 Tundra. It al went smooth except now I have to push really hard to get out of park. The step I missed was adjusting the rod for free play, I think the rod needs to come out a bit.
Just replaced my brake booster on my 2001 sequoia. I was having a rough idle issue and would eventually die when stopped. Could not tell why my booster passed a brake test but turns out it was still the problem. I could hear a very slight hiss if I got down under the gas pedal and listened carefully. Easy job to replace you do not need to crack the brake lines just be careful flexing the master cylinder!!
For those super hard to get to nuts, get some magnetic socket extensions, they make any normal socket magnetic to hold the nut while you thread it on, really useful around the master cylinder, or anywhere you don't want to drop the nut trying to work your hand to it.
Hey Roy I have an 03 Tacoma I change my booster like ur vid but my pedal goes down to the floor went truck is on . Any ideas sir? Maybe a faulty booster ? Thanks
Great question, honestly I’ve never tried but I definitely didn’t and don’t want to accidentally bend and kick the brake tubing because it’ll cause some problems like restricting the flow of fluids and such. Also, if you disconnect it, it also allows for more room to replace the booster. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
So you don’t have to drain the system initially or do you? Great video - we have a brake pedal that gets mushy - feels like it has to go to floor on occasion and heard it may be the booster.
There is no special push rod adjustment tool, just turn it with your hand or pliers if anything. You need 1/8-1/4 free play. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 I believe he is referring to the brake cylinder side of the booster. I have the original Toyota shop manual for my 86' pickup, and it shows a SST that's used for such measurement. Apparently, you push one end of the tool into the master cylinder to set the depth of the other end that will fit flush to the new booster housing while just touching the rod. You adjust the rod to make that happen. When I change out my booster, I think I will just measure the end of the old booster rod to the flat part of the housing, and then adjust (if needed) the rod on the new booster to match.
I have a 2007 Tacoma 2wd v6 and sometimes on the highway my brakes will apply themselves. I either have to let the truck sit for a while or unplug the boosters vacuum line which instantly frees them up.
I accidentally dropped the spring that goes underneath the steering wheel and didn’t see where it was attached to. Do you know by any chance? I’m trying to replace the booster in my 2004 sequoia
Oh boy! You’re just gonna have to go under and look for some kind of hole or notch, one on the pedal and one on the pin. Sorry I can’t be of more help, unless I have the specific car in front of me, I can’t really say where or show you. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 I was able to find it! Omg it was easy to install. On the sequoia (2004 2WD or SR5)learn that you don’t have to disconnect the two lines from the master, all you have to do is move it out of the way because there is a lot room to pull out the booster and re install it. Thanks 🙏 for your video, it was a good 👍
Great question, the best I can tell you is that there definitely is a spot for it to be hooked on but you’ll have to physically go under to find it. It’ll either be a hook or a little hole. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 i took the plastic panel off... just under the steering wheel. Not sure what its called. 4 bolts, 1 screw. Could see everything and hooked it.
I don’t think I’m understanding your question, are you talking about the front of the brake booster (engine side) or are you talking about the back (cabin side) push rod that attaches to the brake pedal? If it’s the engine side do NOT touch it, it’s adjusted from the factory. If it’s the cabin side, for this specific vehicle you do need to adjust it to have some free play roughly around 1/8-1/4inch and you can reference the video around 13:13 where I show you how to adjust it. I hope that answers your questions. Thanks for watching!
@@RoysGarage808 that is an incorrect statement, it is not set at the factory because they have no way of knowing what master cylinder you have on the vehicle. I skipped that step and hsd to take it apart later and use a brake booster rod adjustment tool to set it correctly.
best DIY video I have seen on youtube. no extra BS, But best of all, you started at the beginning- including showing needed tools, and a actually did the ENTIRE project on camera. 2 thumbs up
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
The shops hate to see this videos. This guy is great. Thank you
Straight to the point and very informative. Getting ready to do my booster 22+ years and it decided to finally fail. Excellent video 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
after watching this I thought I could do this successfully, when I tried it I managed in 2 to 3 hours work which is great accomplishment for me. Thank you for your channel.
My guy, thisnis awesome! Great video. So clear, so organized and very well presented. Thanks so much!!
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Yep third video I have used from Roy, he is great. Doesn’t try to be an influencer or add a lot of personality, just does, and explains very well, what we came here to see!
This was great can’t get more simpler then this explanation
thank you Roy, this one of the better one out there!
I just want everyone to know I JUST completed this repair WITHOUT removing the master cylinder. I will mention that there was some tugging and prying so if trying to do this without removing the master cylinder BE VERY CAREFUL OF YOUR BRAKE LINES!! I managed to pull the booster out and put the new one in no problem and I didn’t have to bleed after! Good luck everyone and remember: All repairs are done AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Thanks again for the video sir! Well done!
I did it the same way. It is ridiculous to crack open the brake lines if you dont have to.
How did you guys dit that way
Mahalo plenny, uncle. Your videos are *very* thorough and loaded with helpful tips. I have a 98 Gen-1 L4 -subscribed
Great video, thank you for uploading! Ill be referring to this when i replace mine in a few days.
Hi Roy, thanks for your videos! I did this yesterday on my 2003 Tundra. It al went smooth except now I have to push really hard to get out of park. The step I missed was adjusting the rod for free play, I think the rod needs to come out a bit.
Beautiful video! Saving me money! I’m going to buy a booster and try to give it a go without removing the master cylinder 😁 thanks a lot sir!
Thank you soooo much sir!!!! This was a great video.. helped me out a lot!!!!!
Glad I could help, thanks for watching, aloha 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great video Roy similar to my Hilux, thanks from New Zealand mate
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
i just did this today on my 98 tacoma sr5 and it works good now ,thanks Roy 😎
Excellent video I learn something new thank you sir you are awesome I'm going to work on my 2000 toyota tundra blessings.
This video helped me get started on this same project for my 2000 4runner! Thanks so much!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching 🤙🤙🤙
wow awesome video 100% feeling confident that I can do it now thank you for the video and have a awesome day I just subscribed to you today!
Just replaced my brake booster on my 2001 sequoia. I was having a rough idle issue and would eventually die when stopped. Could not tell why my booster passed a brake test but turns out it was still the problem. I could hear a very slight hiss if I got down under the gas pedal and listened carefully. Easy job to replace you do not need to crack the brake lines just be careful flexing the master cylinder!!
Is changing the fitting necessary from one booster to the other ?
Roy you just saved me money. Thank you!
Glad I could help, thanks for watching!!!
Thank you for posting this video Sir. Great job explaining everything
For those super hard to get to nuts, get some magnetic socket extensions, they make any normal socket magnetic to hold the nut while you thread it on, really useful around the master cylinder, or anywhere you don't want to drop the nut trying to work your hand to it.
Awesome! Very detailed tutorial!
Thanks for watching 🤙👍👍
Very clear, thanks!
Thanks for watching aloha🤙🤙🤙
Mahalo you unko you made this project easy !!! Yessah
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thank you so much for this video it helped so much!
Glad I could help and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
You.nailed it. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Hey Roy I have an 03 Tacoma I change my booster like ur vid but my pedal goes down to the floor went truck is on . Any ideas sir?
Maybe a faulty booster ? Thanks
You could also doi it without disconnecting the lines from the master cylinder so you don't have to bleed it later?
Great question, honestly I’ve never tried but I definitely didn’t and don’t want to accidentally bend and kick the brake tubing because it’ll cause some problems like restricting the flow of fluids and such. Also, if you disconnect it, it also allows for more room to replace the booster. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Seems like you can but seems like it could be a PITA but maybe it’s less than a PITA than bleeding
So you don’t have to drain the system initially or do you? Great video - we have a brake pedal that gets mushy - feels like it has to go to floor on occasion and heard it may be the booster.
Awesome video!
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
I installed a new break booster and master cylinder. But my problem is when I break on the pedal I feel a clank or pop. Any idea what it can be
Great video. Your Toyota looks about like mine. Thanks for the great editing too. What software do you use?
Awesome video. Very nice job as well. What brand of booster did you replace it with? I may have to to that job to my 01Tacoma soon.
likits1999 I got the brake booster through Auto Zone. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your help
Who makes this rebuilt booster? I’ve tried 3 different Cardon boosters they all sucked. Put a used oem and work perfectly
You on Maui? I’d like to hire yoj to check out my break system on my 99/2000 Tacoma.
Great video! Thank you!
Raymond Reynoso thanks for watching!
Thanks, Roy!
Thank you very important you video thank you
So, u might have mentioned that a booster push rod adjustment tool is needed to avoid having brakes dragging after you install it.
There is no special push rod adjustment tool, just turn it with your hand or pliers if anything. You need 1/8-1/4 free play. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 I believe he is referring to the brake cylinder side of the booster. I have the original Toyota shop manual for my 86' pickup, and it shows a SST that's used for such measurement. Apparently, you push one end of the tool into the master cylinder to set the depth of the other end that will fit flush to the new booster housing while just touching the rod. You adjust the rod to make that happen.
When I change out my booster, I think I will just measure the end of the old booster rod to the flat part of the housing, and then adjust (if needed) the rod on the new booster to match.
Super job
I have a 2007 Tacoma 2wd v6 and sometimes on the highway my brakes will apply themselves. I either have to let the truck sit for a while or unplug the boosters vacuum line which instantly frees them up.
I accidentally dropped the spring that goes underneath the steering wheel and didn’t see where it was attached to. Do you know by any chance? I’m trying to replace the booster in my 2004 sequoia
Oh boy! You’re just gonna have to go under and look for some kind of hole or notch, one on the pedal and one on the pin. Sorry I can’t be of more help, unless I have the specific car in front of me, I can’t really say where or show you. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 I was able to find it! Omg it was easy to install. On the sequoia (2004 2WD or SR5)learn that you don’t have to disconnect the two lines from the master, all you have to do is move it out of the way because there is a lot room to pull out the booster and re install it. Thanks 🙏 for your video, it was a good 👍
Very helpful.
Buen vídeo excelente
thank you helpful
Thank you!
If the brake return spring completely falls off under the dash, how do u find where to hook the top part?
Great question, the best I can tell you is that there definitely is a spot for it to be hooked on but you’ll have to physically go under to find it. It’ll either be a hook or a little hole. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 i took the plastic panel off... just under the steering wheel. Not sure what its called.
4 bolts, 1 screw. Could see everything and hooked it.
I did everything like that on mine 99 tacoma and now I have a vacuum leak, I can't find it. Help
Isn't necessary to check the booster pin is at the correct distance ?
I don’t think I’m understanding your question, are you talking about the front of the brake booster (engine side) or are you talking about the back (cabin side) push rod that attaches to the brake pedal? If it’s the engine side do NOT touch it, it’s adjusted from the factory. If it’s the cabin side, for this specific vehicle you do need to adjust it to have some free play roughly around 1/8-1/4inch and you can reference the video around 13:13 where I show you how to adjust it. I hope that answers your questions. Thanks for watching!
@@RoysGarage808 that is an incorrect statement, it is not set at the factory because they have no way of knowing what master cylinder you have on the vehicle. I skipped that step and hsd to take it apart later and use a brake booster rod adjustment tool to set it correctly.
Awesome
Wouldn't you think Toyota could make parts that lasted more than 293k miles !!!
Just subscribe
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽