MAKING MY 3D PRINTED CHROME SHARK
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- Just thought I would show you some of the process in which I make and post process my 3D FDM prints. This is a model I made in Zbrush and printed on my Ultimaker S5.
My Patreon: www.patreon.com/cloakfiend
Support me on youtube and patreon and help me carry on making these tutorials and get access to my models on the way!
Thanks for this great video! I never thought about using plaster to add weight. As an engineer, I always go for something like a steel washer. I learn a lot from watching how an artist approaches a problem.
By the way, plaster of paris cures exothermally, so the more you mix up, the faster it sets. Mixing very small batches will give you more working time (bigger batches create more heat which causes it to set faster). Other ways to get longer working time: use a short mixing time and use (very) cold water; you can also get commercial retarders, or you can switch to “patching” plaster which is formulated to set more slowly (be sure to get the powder, not the pre-mixed stuff which won't cure inside a 3D print).
Thanks! It was my fault for mixing in too much plaster, I should have known better! and I also should have used a different type of infill called gyriod which inter connects more. Usually my prints are usually hollow and one hole and the big syringe can fill it in one or two goes in a few seconds! If you just mix in a touch less plaster it sits long enough to mess about with, but you can keep injecting it even as it starts to harden due to its fine composition.
wow, YT needs to give you more subscribers, great info on post processing
Yes they do! I totally agree after 7 years of this!, but I also understand I need to up my production value, I think many people watching my vids think I'm some crazy guy just messing around with no idea what I'm doing! lol, I do tend to ramble though!
@@Cloakfiend gonna post on a fb channel for 3d print finishing. good to spread the word and the processes you use to chrome it up
@@antonwinter630 let me know which one so i can join and answer any questions!!
@@antonwinter630 all signed up!
I flinched so hard seeing you stabe the print with your hand straight across.
use a variable infill and use a thinner at the bottom, then 4 holes will be enough. The filling itself will be faster. The first sparse infill should only be high enough for the filler to flow freely into the smaller chambers on the sides, 5mm should be too much.
Personally, I avoid the infill because the filling strengthens anyway, so it's just a longer print and more difficult filling.
My settings are a thick infil at the top and preferably not at all at the bottom, it is only intended to prevent the top layers from collapsing.
Defo, I've not experimented with infill enough, and usually print hollow as well. 99.9% of my prints are hollow.
@@Cloakfiend can you write me what chrome paint did you use?
It looks very cool :)
@@666Azmodan666 I made a video about it called chrome in a bottle. Its called mirror.
Why you don't use gyroid infill? it's better and easy to fill with plaster, and you don't need to drill several holes.
To tell the truth others have suggested that to me but I've never actually tried it, but will do!! Thanks!! I rarely do flat prints as most of mine are hollow so im sure it would help me in the future!
What is the chrome paint used here please? Nice work too! Looks awesome.
Its called mirror by culture hustle, but you can also use molotov which is just as good and half the price
I may be wrong, but lbh isn’t it safer to do the acetone with bare hands?
Not wearing gloves exposes you too much though and you get hypersensitive to it.
Nice model, and reflective finish. 👍 I'm curious about that paint. 😃
Thanks! Yeah, its nice reflective shiny paint, I'll do a vid about it alone! as I'm still experimenting with it now! Like with most other high reflective paints, you can't touch it too much after but its way better than your average chrome rattlecan but you need to lay it on thicker unfortunately! :(
@@Cloakfiend Only really chrome ones that seems to be realistic are Molotow and Spatz as a second as far as I know. If this is different I would like to know.
@@nics6308 I posted a new video about the chrome paint I used if you want to check it out!!
@@nics6308 alumaluster is probably one of the best you can get on the market but its about 80 bucks for 4 oz. Anything better and you would probably need to use a 2 part chemical plating with silver. Just as a example Armor in the mandalorian was painted with alumaluster, Phasma's armor in TFA was done using silver plating.
Really nice, next time you can print the bottom with 0 layers and with a high infill on the fist layers, so you don't need to drill the bottom. It will make it for you.
Trouble is that has its own issues. Id rather drill a few holes and have the stability! Especially if im going to metal plate it as sealing it will be harder if the gap is very large.
Does the paint easily scratch off the plastic?
It's not too bad, but dont touch it with bare hands. It smudges easy. Not sure how to clear coat it without hazing. It is very reflective though. You can use molitov for half the prive mind you, its very similar and goes on the same.
Hi again still waiting this shark buddy can I buy it now . Where do I go
Sure dm me or write me on cloakfiend@gmail.com. I have one spare filled with plaster but unpainted that i can sell. Will take it to the post office to get the shipping fees and will let you know on the morning!
I have a similar project I'm trying to produce but honestly, it's pretty daunting to know what material or process to use is the best for what I'm trying to do. Do you have any time to possibly answer some questions? I'm using a 3D printing service online so I don't wanna mess up and select a material that's doomed down the line once I start to chrome/color/gloss it. Thank you!
For the best chrome paint you gotta get a real kit. Otherwise alumaluster but its expensive as hell and hard to get. Im going to try to get the kit. See how hard it is to apply. Chrome paints tends to fog without a clearcoat which tends to fog them anyway. Its a catch 22 situation. But perhaps applying a clear 2k when still not fully cured but anything seems to affect these chrome paints. Nothing beats the multi spray kit apparently. Its pure chrome. Then you add a transparent slight pink in the 2k after to reduce yellowing from the cure. There are only a few proper chroming techniques from what ive seen but there are many paints. Usually if you want it to last and look good its worth spending a little more time and giving it a bit more love!
@@Cloakfiend can I DM you? the project is a gift and I don't want to blow the surprise!
@@Cloakfiend Actually i don't even thing YT has a DM feature lol.
@@jsardone you can email me at cloakfiend@gmail
I think gyroid infill would allow the plaster to flow through the print.
I’d like to buy one of them .. if possible.. just as it comes of the printer. 👍🏻 if possible?
Hi buddy me again 😁👍 do you have one ready to go ?
Yes i have a printed one that weighted if you want it?
@@Cloakfiend yes please how much 👍
@@minimotomad2762 ill weight it up tomorrow if i have time at the post office and let you know.
Hi which dremel bits are you using? Also the chrome paint..is there a specific chrome paint? Which airbrush?
Im not sure what the tools are called specifically but they are burring tools. Not specifically for dremmel but any rotary tool. The paint is mirror by stuart semple.
I’ve asked a few people who make items with 3d printers.. but not got back to me .. how much for one please thanks very much
I sold one of these a while back for about 40uk pounds. I have another around but its much heavier and will cost a lot to post. Havent painted it yet. But if you are still interested let me know!
@@Cloakfiend hi 🙋♂️ my friend. thanks very much for getting back to me .👍🏻 if you can do me one straight of the printer. That would be great. It Would be posted to the uk . 👍🏻 if you can give me a full price that would be brilliant 👍🏻.
@@minimotomad2762 yeah sure takes a while to print and theres a bit of cleanup as well but if you are willing to do all that then i cant really go lower than 30 quid for size and time reasons. How does that sound?
@@Cloakfiend yeah that’s great thanks very much 👍🏻
Why plaster for infill channels as opposed to resin/epoxy?
Its cheap.
Nice man! New sub here! Hey, what brand paint did you use? Looks STUNNING!
Its called 'Mirror' by stuart semple he has loads of weird paint on his site!
@@Cloakfiend brilliant, thanks mate! Just discovered your channel and I love your content. Keep up the amazing work!
@@gracebyseven Thanks a lot! Appreciate it!
@@Cloakfiend great finish !! did you put a clear coat or laquer over the mirror paint?
@@martincull8675 no never got round to it. I sold that piece. But i would try 2k clear.
The Dremel runs a bit smoother if you shank the bit in almost all the way
quick question is this PLA or ABS?
PLA doesnt smooth with acetone so I assume ABS or ASA
Its colorfabb pla/pha. I always use this pla from colorfabb because it smooths with acetone well, any colour, but the transparent colours smooths best. Pure pla does not smooth with acetone.
@@nics6308 I only use pla from colorfabb as it smooths nicely with acetone!
@@Cloakfiend try smartfil glace. It reacts with alcohol ands smooth easy. Its more similar to petg/abs than pla too
@@juanmsnt will do but acetone is nice with pla/pha because it is less aggresive and you can adjust the exposure better. Acetone and abs is way too aggressive for me.
What paint did you use please mate
Mirror by Stuart Semple.
what program did you use to shape the shark
Zbrush
Thank you
can you make a video how to make the shark in the program
@@sebastianteubl4525 sure! but if you want to have the model its on my patreon! Ill probably do sculpting tutorials at some point, for now you can get some of my models. Feel free to take a look!
which 3d printer do you use
NGL that's sneaky way to add weight to a product XD
Its not that sneaky. Lil bit, lol. Some people add resin but plaster is way cheaper!
06:14 says sub-milimiter and zooms to where?? 🤣
I was talking about the dents on the back of fin. They are quite easy to see. But being sub millimetre are also easy to sand out.
@@Cloakfiend Yeah I know what you were talking about. Was just a joke. By the way great content. And the shark came out to be perfect. Can you polish the final product any further?
not perfect but very very cool
def worthy of art status
Thankyou!
And yes i agree its not perfect! But unfortunately i was impatient with the paint and kept touching it when it was wet and went too heavy after as a result! Silly me! Ill do a video about the paint next just still experimenting!
I think the video time would be better utilized if you just focused on the chroming part. I wanted a whole video about that but only got 1 min worth and a lot of questions
Sorry about that!, but I do have other chroming related videos, but the chrome paint I used is called 'mirror'
@@Cloakfiend thanks! What airbrush did you use?
@@nczioox1116 iwata eclipse with a .5mm nozzle. I found it difficult to apply to large areas its extremely sensitive to humidity and moisture in general. It fogs up in my garage overnight in the cold every now and then if i leave something i painted out. Im going to have try to coat it in 2k or somethimg. Very similar behaviour to molotow chrome, both are good.
I have a question how do i get the shark on the patreon because there are two patreons in which one is the shark and how can i download him and in what file is it because i haven‘t got zbrush i hope for a answer thx
Yeah i would also love to see an answer
I'm gonna put the Shark up on cgtrader or something.
Epic
Thanks dude much appreciated!!!
What chrome paint are you using?
Ill post a chrome video soon just experimenting with it!
hey your shark is pretty good and i would love to do it can you do a tutorial on how to make the shark in zbrush
Lol its kind of just practice. Have you used zbrush before?
@@Cloakfiend no but i want to do the shark after your tutorial 😇
@@King-nd1tl its actually a lot easier than you think. You have to first start with a sphere, squish it and then jusy cut thecdetails into it!
@@Cloakfiend
that works with blender too
@@King-nd1tl im sure you could do it in lots of different softwares, but im just used to zbrush! Takes a little getting used to. But like with blender or anything else the more you use it the better it gets.
This looks like a great way to make an inexpensive hood ornament for my semi truck that has a high dollar look. Can I commission you?
Sure, but id cast it if you are going to expose it to the elements. Email me at cloakfiend@gmail
hi you can put the shark online i can also print it
Sure if you support me on patreon ill upload it for you!
Can you upload it on thingiverse
@UCn_nIKLsR1iQR52MuARsoFA my patreon is here is you are interested? Im very new to it btw!
Www.patreon.com/cloakfiend.
@@freezy5898 maybe later im tying to build up my patreon to fund my channel at the moment. Stay tuned though!
Damn. XD no effort in the question.
Awesome work!
Thanks!! Appreciate it!
thats cool
Thanks glad you like it, the model is gonna be on my patreon real soon!
Looks great!