Can’t wait to give it a try, can’t begin to thank you for all you’ve taught me! I met a retired 75 year old electrician in a local art supply store, overheard him asking about ‘airbrush paint’…I jumped out of line to pay for my acrylic ink and spent 45 minutes taking to my newest lure making buddy Gerry! He was all about your channel and Nate Marling and Zach Baker! Sending you lots of support from Canada!! Please keep doing what you do!
Love how you bring the math and science type explanations in your videos thanks, im just a dumb fisherman that would love to start doing this with lures
Always find useful information from you. I actually tried to spray some UV resin this past week following your previous video. Works pretty well I’ll have to say. Definitely warm it up as you said. I placed my bottle in a bowl of hot water to accomplish that. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work
You're right, warming it is key. In fact I like to heat up the surface of the lure with the blow dryer...even when brushing on...it makes a big difference.
Interesting Franco! Did you do a strength/rigidity test on your thinned resin? I tried thinning Alumi-UV, Chinese UV and Loon UV resins with denatured alcohol and found that if I went much more than 5% (by weight) that the resin would be softer than normal. I tested a couple of drops of mixed and drops of straight resin (as a reference), cured the samples under a nail lamp and gave the samples the "thumbnail hardness test". I also popped the samples off of the glass base and bent them to see how they would react. It seems that I could get away with a couple of percent of alcohol but beyond that the properties of the cured resin changed - it became softer, lost strength and at higher percentages would break apart easily. Resin thinned 5% works well as a glue when I tie flies but I think that I'll stick to brushing on lures, I need a good coat to protect the wooden lure from pikes' teeth anyway 😀 Cheers!
@@EngineeredAngler Good suggestion Franco. A couple of drops of the straight resin cures fully in 3 minutes under the 360-395nm led lamp. IIRC, I gave the samples an extra minute and that may not be enough. I have some 10% thinned resin mixed and will try "cooking" some samples for a longer time. Will get back to you with my findings. Cheers!
Very informative! Have you made a video on how to solve the problem of tackiness of the uv resin? No matter how long I leave the lure under the light it won't finish curing.
Have you tried spraying it with an airless sprayer? You wouldn’t need to thin it with an airless. I will be trying it out of a Graco quick shot as soon as my cleaner arives
In my way of working I try to be as simple as possible but also the most effective. I do not use UV resin but I use paint that use coachwork finishing,The advantage is many but the main ones are a quick drying without resorting to special equipment, the other feature is the maximum hardness dela paint,I go fishing on cliffs, After a few launches the surface of our artificial fish is totally ruined. Think about when hailstorms arrive and cars are parked in front of the road and without shelter, the paint is protected by the finishing cabbage
very nice idea, but i love the thick clear coat. it protects the lure much better. some are 2years and older, have catched hundreds of trouts and they have only some light scratches, from the garfisch in the summer... i think the thin coat is just a fabrication-thing,you cant brush or dip a lure by a mashine, and you will sell more if they are beat up after a few fish...
Some designs can't have multiple coats though. My lures i make, their action would be lost with multiple coats/too thick of coats. I wish i could, but i can't. I started, with etex, but then moved to diamond clearcoat.
Great vid! Seen so many people warn us about thinning epoxy but not many would try, let alone making n sharing it through a vid like this. Your vid open up lots of possiblity for me =) Im a composite hobbist just doing some small parts at home for myself. I was wondering 1) how many layers can we add to a part to a point where we loses clearity? Does it? 2) what is the flash time between coats of spray you would advice? 3) do you need to sand down the parts for recoating to get better adhesion? (Coming from composite persepective) 4) lastly, how long does it take to cured fully compare man-made light to sun light. Thank you for sharing!
The resin is water clear, use as many coats as you like. There is no flash time. It will not cure until exposed to UV. Light sanding, and clean with alcohol between coats. The cure time depends on UV light strength and can vary from 10 minutes to several hours.
Hello everybody. Here I always learn something new! Fantastic.Congratulations. But I have a problem with Denatured Alcohol in my country (Portugal): it has a blue color! I ask if I don't get the same result with Isopropyl Alcohol. Thank you all.
Isopropyl alcohol has too much water in it and will not work well to thin the resin. I would go ahead and use the blue alcohol. I'm willing to be it won't be noticeable.
@@EngineeredAngler The isopropyl alcohol I use is almost pure: 99.9%. I often use it for PCB repair and cleaning, precisely because it contains almost no water. Anyway thanks for the warning.
Have a try with some clear resin for 3d sla printers, there's a lot of different one now on the market. Very good video Sir , I'm reserching about spraying resin on homemade miniatures and statues and this helped a little. I think Ill have a try following your suggestions at first. Details are very important for me and I love cheap chinese airbrush guns , there are mini sanders too now on the market , any experience with em? I love tour nerdy way to face an activity, It's the same for me ❤
I know this is a bit off topic, but have always wondered what the the likes of Rapala and Strike Pro use for there topcoat as it’s lighter than resin durable and they must just spray it on. Has it ever been leaked out what they use. Keep up the videos I am nearly in production just gathering materials and finishing my little workshop.
thank you very much excellent information I have a question if I want to put another layer with UV wing spray how long should I let the first layer dry just to get a little more thickness and resistance to bumps and bites
Remember, UV Resin Doesn't dry, it cures under the UV lights. You should wait utile the resin is cured completely. the amount of time depends on your lights. When the resin has almost no odor it usually means it is cured.
You are a legend, I've bought some soft/flexible resin from China as I tie a lot of pike flies and go through the expensive fly tying specific resins quite quickly. It's great, the only thing is that it's a bit thicker than I'd prefer to work with. I'll likely experiment anyway, but in your opinion if I mixed in some denatured alcohol and put it back in the applicator bottle, would it maintain its new consistency?
With the stuff I use, If the bottle is well sealed, it stays thinned for a good long time. I thinned some a few months ago and it is still thin enough to spray. I can't speak for the flexible stuff, it's formulation might not allow for thinning the same way. But it's worth a try...
UV resin works fine for small baits, but a moisture cure will give you better results. Moisture cure are usually thinner and will retain all the details. Two part epoxies and UV epoxies are great for baits that need multiple coats, wood baits, baits for toothy fish, etc.
Really insteresting, i´m from dominican republic and is impossible to find denatured alcohol so would like to know if I can use isopropyl alcohol at 70% purity
The past several day we've had spotted sea trout at our pier. They all seem to be males, but have some good size to them. The problem is, they aren't hitting anything that's thrown at them,, unless it's topwater. They're coming up and hitting something on the surface, but no one has been able to see anything, so whatever it is, it's very small! Which leads me to this,,, would you do some "micro" lures?! Something in the 1 1/2" - 2 1/2" size range,, and in particular, a topwater lure?!
I tried Car Clear coat but had my insanely well painted lure peel after catching a larger bass. I was wondering about being able to spray UV resin but don’t know how to do it. This helped a ton!! Also, may I ask where you got your uv light box/ how you built it and what you used for the rotisserie part? Thanks jj
The turner motor is a disco ball motor... but can find more info on the turner build in this playlist UV Cure Resin: ua-cam.com/play/PLEVBv_zywucSOtu4FSkyWnDc5groq--WK.html
hey I'd like some info about resin is printer UV resin the same thing as UV resin? as they both are liquid I'm wondering if I can use printer UV 3d resin in coating and making jewlerly pendants.
ya I'm thinking I'd have to cure every few mm also with blue light so probably won't even work..unless I do that.i image that would be super time consuming as well. 🔥
I noticed on the UV resin sometimes after it’s dry it still feels a little wet sticky. Is that because it’s not fully cured yet or what am I doing wrong? I need a brighter light or something like that.
That's right, it is not cured yet. You need more time or more wattage. Be sure your lights have the right wavelength for the resin, typically 365 to 395nm
@@EngineeredAngler still it might not be a good idea to spray this stuff, if you spray something you should know exactly what is in it and it, atleast when you are spraying paint with nasty chemicals it will cure pretty fast in the air... this stuff wont, personally i would not do this inside, especially without a really good paint booth, not sure if most people watching this and wanting to try it has the same concern... anyways, there is this stuff called clean armor UV, made for spraying... might be a better alternative, coast airbrush has it.
Can’t wait to give it a try, can’t begin to thank you for all you’ve taught me! I met a retired 75 year old electrician in a local art supply store, overheard him asking about ‘airbrush paint’…I jumped out of line to pay for my acrylic ink and spent 45 minutes taking to my newest lure making buddy Gerry! He was all about your channel and Nate Marling and Zach Baker! Sending you lots of support from Canada!! Please keep doing what you do!
Wow, thank you so much...cheers.
Love how you bring the math and science type explanations in your videos thanks, im just a dumb fisherman that would love to start doing this with lures
I may never do anything like that, but thanks to you, I know how to do it. Love the videos of any type.
Glad you like them!
Wonderful, concise content. Thank you very useful. And thank you for using metric units. Makes life so much easier. 👍
I have been thinking about how to spray UV resin for a while. I did try it once with my airbrush. I might have to revisit this idea.
i feel lucky to have discovered this channel
Thanks and welcome
A very interesting video, so many people say uv is hard to spray on but you have proven them wrong. Well done
🐟
Awesome. I started doing this about 2 weeks ago and love the results.
Always putting out quality content, very informative
Always find useful information from you. I actually tried to spray some UV resin this past week following your previous video. Works pretty well I’ll have to say. Definitely warm it up as you said. I placed my bottle in a bowl of hot water to accomplish that. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work
You're right, warming it is key. In fact I like to heat up the surface of the lure with the blow dryer...even when brushing on...it makes a big difference.
Neat curing chamber!
Thanks I was liking the thinner coating but don’t want to spray without a booth.
No worries!
Thx 4the vid, really usefully fish on from Sweden!!!
Interesting Franco! Did you do a strength/rigidity test on your thinned resin? I tried thinning Alumi-UV, Chinese UV and Loon UV resins with denatured alcohol and found that if I went much more than 5% (by weight) that the resin would be softer than normal. I tested a couple of drops of mixed and drops of straight resin (as a reference), cured the samples under a nail lamp and gave the samples the "thumbnail hardness test". I also popped the samples off of the glass base and bent them to see how they would react. It seems that I could get away with a couple of percent of alcohol but beyond that the properties of the cured resin changed - it became softer, lost strength and at higher percentages would break apart easily. Resin thinned 5% works well as a glue when I tie flies but I think that I'll stick to brushing on lures, I need a good coat to protect the wooden lure from pikes' teeth anyway 😀 Cheers!
I have noticed any difference in harness...I will need to do a bit of thinking about your mix ratio.
I meant to say I have not noticed a difference but, cure time will be longer for the thinned resin...be sure you allow enough time to fully cure.
@@EngineeredAngler Good suggestion Franco. A couple of drops of the straight resin cures fully in 3 minutes under the 360-395nm led lamp. IIRC, I gave the samples an extra minute and that may not be enough. I have some 10% thinned resin mixed and will try "cooking" some samples for a longer time. Will get back to you with my findings. Cheers!
Always enjoy the videos. Thanks.
Glad you like them!
Very informative! Have you made a video on how to solve the problem of tackiness of the uv resin? No matter how long I leave the lure under the light it won't finish curing.
You probably have the wrong kind of lights
Have you tried spraying it with an airless sprayer? You wouldn’t need to thin it with an airless. I will be trying it out of a Graco quick shot as soon as my cleaner arives
Let me know how it goes
Thank u exactly what I needed
That's gratifying to hear
In my way of working I try to be as simple as possible but also the most effective. I do not use UV resin but I use paint that use coachwork finishing,The advantage is many but the main ones are a quick drying without resorting to special equipment, the other feature is the maximum hardness dela paint,I go fishing on cliffs, After a few launches the surface of our artificial fish is totally ruined.
Think about when hailstorms arrive and cars are parked in front of the road and without shelter, the paint is protected by the finishing cabbage
Thanks for the knowledge...👍👍👍
very nice idea, but i love the thick clear coat. it protects the lure much better. some are 2years and older, have catched hundreds of trouts and they have only some light scratches, from the garfisch in the summer... i think the thin coat is just a fabrication-thing,you cant brush or dip a lure by a mashine, and you will sell more if they are beat up after a few fish...
Absolutely...but small lures can sometimes look a little overcoated...it's a matter of taste. Thank you for your point of view. Cheers.
Some designs can't have multiple coats though. My lures i make, their action would be lost with multiple coats/too thick of coats. I wish i could, but i can't. I started, with etex, but then moved to diamond clearcoat.
Great vid! Seen so many people warn us about thinning epoxy but not many would try, let alone making n sharing it through a vid like this. Your vid open up lots of possiblity for me =)
Im a composite hobbist just doing some small parts at home for myself. I was wondering
1) how many layers can we add to a part to a point where we loses clearity? Does it?
2) what is the flash time between coats of spray you would advice?
3) do you need to sand down the parts for recoating to get better adhesion? (Coming from composite persepective)
4) lastly, how long does it take to cured fully compare man-made light to sun light.
Thank you for sharing!
The resin is water clear, use as many coats as you like.
There is no flash time. It will not cure until exposed to UV.
Light sanding, and clean with alcohol between coats.
The cure time depends on UV light strength and can vary from 10 minutes to several hours.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you so much. Appreciate ur reply. Keep up the gd work man!
Hello everybody.
Here I always learn something new! Fantastic.Congratulations.
But I have a problem with Denatured Alcohol in my country (Portugal): it has a blue color!
I ask if I don't get the same result with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Thank you all.
Isopropyl alcohol has too much water in it and will not work well to thin the resin. I would go ahead and use the blue alcohol. I'm willing to be it won't be noticeable.
@@EngineeredAngler The isopropyl alcohol I use is almost pure: 99.9%.
I often use it for PCB repair and cleaning, precisely because it contains almost no water.
Anyway thanks for the warning.
Have a try with some clear resin for 3d sla printers, there's a lot of different one now on the market. Very good video Sir , I'm reserching about spraying resin on homemade miniatures and statues and this helped a little. I think Ill have a try following your suggestions at first. Details are very important for me and I love cheap chinese airbrush guns , there are mini sanders too now on the market , any experience with em? I love tour nerdy way to face an activity, It's the same for me ❤
Thanks...I'll have to look into the mini sanders.
I know this is a bit off topic, but have always wondered what the the likes of Rapala and Strike Pro use for there topcoat as it’s lighter than resin durable and they must just spray it on. Has it ever been leaked out what they use. Keep up the videos I am nearly in production just gathering materials and finishing my little workshop.
From what I've seen, they use a liquefied plastic and they spray or dip it. But it's a difficult material to work with.
thank you very much excellent information I have a question if I want to put another layer with UV wing spray how long should I let the first layer dry just to get a little more thickness and resistance to bumps and bites
Remember, UV Resin Doesn't dry, it cures under the UV lights. You should wait utile the resin is cured completely. the amount of time depends on your lights. When the resin has almost no odor it usually means it is cured.
tanks very much😀
If you wanted to put a second coat on would there be any prepping? Very informative as all of your videos are!
Wipe down with denatured alcohol.
You are a legend, I've bought some soft/flexible resin from China as I tie a lot of pike flies and go through the expensive fly tying specific resins quite quickly.
It's great, the only thing is that it's a bit thicker than I'd prefer to work with. I'll likely experiment anyway, but in your opinion if I mixed in some denatured alcohol and put it back in the applicator bottle, would it maintain its new consistency?
With the stuff I use, If the bottle is well sealed, it stays thinned for a good long time. I thinned some a few months ago and it is still thin enough to spray. I can't speak for the flexible stuff, it's formulation might not allow for thinning the same way. But it's worth a try...
@@EngineeredAngler thank you, I'll have a play about with it
Danke!
Thank you for the donation....cheers.
How to clear the aerograph?
UV resin works fine for small baits, but a moisture cure will give you better results. Moisture cure are usually thinner and will retain all the details. Two part epoxies and UV epoxies are great for baits that need multiple coats, wood baits, baits for toothy fish, etc.
That's a good point
Sounds very interesting. Can I substitute Denatured Alcohol with Isopropyl Alcohol? Thanks for the video. As usual with your videos, Thumbs UP.
Isopropyl will not work.... Thanks for the 👍
@@EngineeredAngler
how about methyl/methanol alcohol? seems to be a slight issue getting denatured alcohol where I am at.
I'm not sure you used the right Solarez product there is on specifically for air brush
Didn't know that.
0:43 have you tested applying UV resin with a brush that is thinned to keep the details cleaner?
yes and it works pretty well. I prefer to spray it on when I want to keep the coating thin.
Really insteresting, i´m from dominican republic and is impossible to find denatured alcohol so would like to know if I can use isopropyl alcohol at 70% purity
No, too much water in the Isopropyl. Use acetone.
@@EngineeredAngler excellent, thank you so much, will gie it a try so
Hello thank you for this video! Can you use regular alcohol instead of the denatured alcohol? If not what is the difference?
There's too much water in regular alcohol.
The past several day we've had spotted sea trout at our pier. They all seem to be males, but have some good size to them.
The problem is, they aren't hitting anything that's thrown at them,, unless it's topwater. They're coming up and hitting something on the surface, but no one has been able to see anything, so whatever it is, it's very small!
Which leads me to this,,, would you do some "micro" lures?! Something in the 1 1/2" - 2 1/2" size range,, and in particular, a topwater lure?!
here's a little crankbait ua-cam.com/video/0C0qhQdNI0s/v-deo.html
Acetone destroyed the seals in my master airbrush.
That's a shame....I've never had that happen.
Interesting. How do you clean your airbrush after spaying the UV.
Run acetone through it...cleans right up.
When you have mixed the resin with DA, can you save the mixture for later?
Yes.
Ok, great
How long?
Weeks or longer?@@EngineeredAngler
fFranco Have tried brushing the thinned down version?
No...I get good results from brushing the unthinned resin.
I tried Car Clear coat but had my insanely well painted lure peel after catching a larger bass. I was wondering about being able to spray UV resin but don’t know how to do it. This helped a ton!! Also, may I ask where you got your uv light box/ how you built it and what you used for the rotisserie part? Thanks jj
The turner motor is a disco ball motor... but can find more info on the turner build in this playlist UV Cure Resin: ua-cam.com/play/PLEVBv_zywucSOtu4FSkyWnDc5groq--WK.html
How speed have motor to dryier ?
How uv light must be to used with uv resin ?
You said to rub down the lure with alcohol wouldn’t that take your paint off if you were using createx?
Yes it would. But if you just painted you wouldn't be worried about oil on the surface.
Would 100% isopropanol do the same as the DA would?
Isopropyl does not work well.
@@EngineeredAngler ok thanks.
Great video, would you be able to use isopropyl alcohol?
No, I'm afraid not
Good to know thanks
hey I'd like some info about resin is printer UV resin the same thing as UV resin? as they both are liquid I'm wondering if I can use printer UV 3d resin in coating and making jewlerly pendants.
It's essentially the same product but you may not get a crystal clear finish with the printing resin
ya I'm thinking I'd have to cure every few mm also with blue light so probably won't even work..unless I do that.i image that would be super time consuming as well. 🔥
How do you clean the airbrush after?
Acetone
@@EngineeredAngler perfect thank you sir!
Could you use sunlight to dry the UV resin
yes...but it takes a bit longer.
What if you want it to be a little rubbery? Do all uv resins smell after applying?
There should be almost no smell if it is cured. If it smells leave it under the light longer.
I noticed on the UV resin sometimes after it’s dry it still feels a little wet sticky. Is that because it’s not fully cured yet or what am I doing wrong? I need a brighter light or something like that.
That's right, it is not cured yet. You need more time or more wattage. Be sure your lights have the right wavelength for the resin, typically 365 to 395nm
@@EngineeredAngler ok Ty I’ll get better lighting
Where can I get that lure you used in this video
I bought it at Sports Academy
It that very hard?
The resin sets very hard.
What about 2 part resins, can we spray it ?
You could but then you have to make sure you get it all out of your airbrush before it sets or bye bye airbrush...
I'm here for the algorithm. I don't have an airbrush so I'm going to make a sandwich with the video in the background 😌
Thank you!
👍👍👍💖💖🐠
Please don’t do this… very irresponsible video not even recommending a respirator. It’s extremely dangerous and bad for you
I did recommend a respirator...you should watch before you comment.
@@EngineeredAngler
still it might not be a good idea to spray this stuff, if you spray something you should know exactly what is in it and it, atleast when you are spraying paint with nasty chemicals it will cure pretty fast in the air... this stuff wont, personally i would not do this inside, especially without a really good paint booth, not sure if most people watching this and wanting to try it has the same concern...
anyways, there is this stuff called clean armor UV, made for spraying... might be a better alternative, coast airbrush has it.
@@ralphbooger4756 🤣🤣🤣