Just a tip for saving you brushes after using uv resin. Wrapping them in tinfoil after each use blocks uv rays and prevents them from getting hard so you can use them multiple times 😊 . Awesome video by the way and thanks for sharing. Definitely so I will be doing in the future!
Fantastic I used your idea in a different manner and it worked great I shrunk a full size helmet down to fit a 3.75 figure and it was a little too thin for my liking so I brushed three coats of resin onto it it is now sturdy and fits perfectly
Using a high quality car auto body filler is just as fast with regards to sanding etc, but the added strength from the cured resin that seeped into the cracks is a game changer for sure. This is awesome and I will be giving this approach a try on my next helmet.
For sure. I've had really good success with it and it's made me want to use my FDM printer much more than before because it's so much less effort to get a good finish for paint. I've always felt like high fill auto body primer just lays over the layer lines and not between them, so it's never really making a strong bond to the surface and can take awhile to dry otherwise is just gums up your sandpaper, even if wet sanding. The truth is, everyone has a method that works for them and as long as it gets you to the finish line, then it's the right method for the job.
The world of 3D printing is a new one for me. Does this resin coating you add diminish and fine detailing work or is it thin enough to still show that detail? I realize that something like this helmet wouldn't have as much detail as something else, but just curious.
Yes you're adding particles into spaces where there were not. So the detail is now less rigid. Resin is very thin. I would say you're working with a .1mm tolerance
I've been using this on my 3d prints for a few years now but you should add baby powder to it, it makes the resin stay in place better and not want to run off the sides as much as normal 3d resin. the mix of baby power can vary but is usually 2 parts resin to 1 part baby powder, but add more as needed. This will smooth out the layer lines faster, giving you a smoother surface in less coats. Also I do the full helmet in one shot, not small shots, with the baby powder added it won't run as much and pool up in areas, and make sure you clean out any areas that you dont want resin on like groves or detail before curing. And after each coat move your bottle of resin away from the UV light to a uv protected area like under a yellow hood of a resin curing station or similar to protect against unwanted curing of the cap and bottle of resin as you apply it. And lastly "before sanding" if you can put the coated part outside or under the uv lamp for about 5 to 10 min or so to cure the small amount of resin that hasnt cured yet on the part, it assures full resin curing incase you missed a spot.
@@VanOaksProps Np, I know it was a few years ago that you did that video. there have been a few good videos on doing resin with baby powder to smooth out prints. Its a great and fast method to do stuff like helmets and other items. But anyways happy printing!
You can go up the grits as high as you like, but I basically knock everything down with 120 and stop around 300-400 if it's just going to get painted. If it'll be metallic paint, I'll go higher and wet sand at 1000-1200.
I haven't had much success with the resin method, perhaps I need better UV curing lights. I do like the acetone and putty method. I also found that if you thin the putty enough with acetone it can be sprayed quite easily with a large nozzle automotive HVLP sprayer. This worked really well for me as it gets a really nice even layer of putty on and is really easy to sand. I found the resin quite difficult to sand in comparison. Lots of options to get the job done 👍.
That came out great! I have tried this method. It also works well with a small spray bottle. I’ve seen it done with a airbrush also but don’t like that as it goes airborne. Thanks for video!
It kind of depends on the complexity of the project. This one took a few hours. I've had some take a few days, but most of that time was logging footage and trying to figure out how best to tell the story.
@VanOaksProps so you do commissions? I’ve been looking for someone to 3D print/ and mold me a daft punk guy helmet functioned with LEDS to wear for a while now but to no avail…
I do, however there are other makers who specialize in those helmets who would be better option. Coregeek (Eric Jones - coregeek.net) would be my first recommendation.
@@VanOaksProps I got in touch with him. He does not sell them. You are my last hope for this or I will have to make an attempt to make my own. I have never 3D printed before. What’s best? Filament/ UV resin/resin?
@@XsvShOnUfFvsX Have you tried Etsy? There's quite a few sellers who offer completed helmets. If you're unfamiliar with 3d printing, this is probably not the best project to start with, especially considering the chrome finish on the helmet.
@@VanOaksProps I do have some favorites on ETSY but they don’t respond yet. Also can get pricey. I don’t mind paying for quality work but $1,200 for a prop seems a bit much. Not trying to slam since I don’t know the industry of 3D prints
That's actually not that crazy. The amount of time required to get the helmet perfectly smooth so that it can be chromed (which is a whole other challenging process) and doing all the electronics are both pretty labor intensive tasks. Even more so if the helmet isn't one you make all the time. Hopefully there's a middle ground that works for your budget and still gets you the quality you're after.
@@VanOaksProps Cool thanks. I wasn't sure if super glue worked still on pieces coated. I am building my mando helmet and am doing the UV resin method. I'm not coating the back side of the pieces I need to glue, but was going to coat the side of the helmet and was worried super glue would not adhere to the resin.
Great video - especially the cold weather tips as a bonus. With your respirator, do you use the same grade of cartridge inserts for the resin smoothing and for spray painting i.e P100 plus + organic vapour/gas ?
Is there any reason you didn’t wet sand the resin? It’s what I typically do with my resin prints and it works well to reduce the amount of airborne dust
You should. I'll never go back to the filler primer days. This adds structural integrity to 3d prints, is easy to sand, dries quickly, and is a lot cheaper.
OK so I clicked on the link for the UV resin that you used and it said that it was PPE resin. I am want to use it on a helmet similar to the one in the video. I printed my helmet using PLA, so my question is could I use the PPE UV resin on a PLA printed object? Would there be any problems?
Can you resin coat of glazing putty? I was planning on trying this for the first time in a Deathstroke helmet but my PLA spool got stuck and I have some serious under extrusion.
A few seconds. Once you’ve exposed the resin and wiped the part down with isopropyl alcohol (assuming you’re using standard uv resin) you should be fine to handle it.
@@VanOaksProps ok. Thanks. I used a foam brush & it seemed to “fill in” some of the small crevices a little too thick. So I had to keep brushing it out. I do like it for the large areas & eliminating the lines … it’s great for them. Thanks. I’m really enjoying it. Just practice !
Foam brush for me did the same thing. I would like to find a method where I don’t have to throw away a foam brush every time. Wonder if there is a way to have a dedicated brush, but one that I don’t need to clean off after every use. Maybe a bottle with resin in it, and the brush lives in that bottle or something?
I just printed out a haunted mansion door last night and today I'm painting it make an ornament for my boyfriend. Do you know where a life sized snake handle stl might be found? On the DL of course because the mouse is always searching and removing the fun files
You're applying it too heavily. It's got to be super thin coats and if you find the surface to be tacky after application, wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol between layers.
I accidentally made a mistake with my cura settings and now I basically have a clone trooper helmet with 0.1mm wall thickness. Could this help give structural support and reinforcement??
This was awesome. Definitely looking at this technique for a helmet I am making. I am curious, about how long did it take you to do the application and curing of the UV resin? Want to make sure I budget enough time in the day to do a whole helmet thoroughly, and properly. THANKS!
This is great thanks. When I've done this my parts stay sticky even after being in the sun for hours. I'm applying thin coats so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
@@VanOaksProps dude thank you. It's an FDM print, I used elgoo grey resin and applied a think coat. Then I used a ultraviolet light (curing machine), still sticky so I placed it in the sun for many hours (4+), sprayed with 90% alcohol, tried curing machine again and still sticky to the touch. I'm sure I did something wrong, just not sure what.
@@markcampano1184 Basically what happens is that a skin is formed over the uncured resin as a result of being exposed to oxygen and it can trap uncured resin below it. That’s the stickiness you’re experiencing. When that’s happened to me, I’ve just wiped down the print with alcohol, lightly sanded it, rinsed off the resin dust & alcohol wipe again. Then apply my next thin layer of resin. Try applying your resin in sections (multiple thin layers) and exposing the individual sections as you go. It doesn’t take much time for the resin to react to uv light and beats having to sand off the sticky residue.
Do you think this method increases the ability for PLA to withstand sunlight and weather? Looking at making car parts. Disregard. I saw you answered a similat question a year ago. Thanks for great video.
Another valuable tutorial and done very well. I just bought XTC 3D resin. My goal is to make a Sirius Black wand for a Christmas present. I've made wands already, but I want a heavier feel with more rigidity. Is XTC an okay choice? Have you used it before? What are some "nice to knows" before I get started? Lot's of details in his wand so I need to ensure the resin doesn't fill them in. As always, thanks Derek! 🤘💀
A word of caution when using XTC 3D. It's VERY thick and your instincts will tell you to apply a thick layer but you'll want to go as thin as possible, otherwise you'll lose any detail. Additionally, you'll want to make sure your 1:1 measurement is as exact as possible. If you get the recipe wrong it'll never really cure correctly. Good luck!
I didn't film one for this specific helmet, but there is this video where I paint another Star Wars helmet: ua-cam.com/video/A72yCfZWNGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=AaPtYflBKfJcsJ9Q
This method is dangerous. There is a reason why resin printers have enclosures (and printers themselves shouldn't be placed in living quarters), and spray filler is much more cheaper and convenient to apply.
This would be work the risk if you didn't have to sand at all. Otherwise sanding and primer is better for me. I don't need to introduce more toxic products and then put that in the air by sanding.
I hear you. In truth, all of the products mentioned are toxic when applied and sanded. It just comes down to what works for you. Just be safe, regardless of your preferred method.
@@VanOaksProps oh yeah. 100% agree. But so many people don't understand resin and the dangers. You at least call that out. And you say no to spraying resin, which is becoming more popular.
Just a tip for saving you brushes after using uv resin. Wrapping them in tinfoil after each use blocks uv rays and prevents them from getting hard so you can use them multiple times 😊 . Awesome video by the way and thanks for sharing. Definitely so I will be doing in the future!
Great tip!
I just finished printing a Masterchief helmet. THIS gonna save me a lot of time!! Thanks for the vid
Glad I could help!
Dude, I’ve been seeing this and wondered if it worked. Thanks for doing this video, it really looks like it will be a game changer!
For sure. I didn’t sand the print before applying and probably spent no more than 45 minutes sanding.
Fantastic I used your idea in a different manner and it worked great I shrunk a full size helmet down to fit a 3.75 figure and it was a little too thin for my liking so I brushed three coats of resin onto it it is now sturdy and fits perfectly
Glad it helped!
Using a high quality car auto body filler is just as fast with regards to sanding etc, but the added strength from the cured resin that seeped into the cracks is a game changer for sure. This is awesome and I will be giving this approach a try on my next helmet.
For sure. I've had really good success with it and it's made me want to use my FDM printer much more than before because it's so much less effort to get a good finish for paint.
I've always felt like high fill auto body primer just lays over the layer lines and not between them, so it's never really making a strong bond to the surface and can take awhile to dry otherwise is just gums up your sandpaper, even if wet sanding. The truth is, everyone has a method that works for them and as long as it gets you to the finish line, then it's the right method for the job.
@@VanOaksProps Why would you disable dislikes?
@@MC-ml3cn UA-cam does it by default.
so glad I found this video I was just doing this because grey resin matched grey pla and filled seams, this is a perfect result!
This will be so useful for my 3D printed Rocketeer jetpack replica
Excellent!
The world of 3D printing is a new one for me. Does this resin coating you add diminish and fine detailing work or is it thin enough to still show that detail? I realize that something like this helmet wouldn't have as much detail as something else, but just curious.
It can, if applied too heavily.
Yes you're adding particles into spaces where there were not. So the detail is now less rigid. Resin is very thin. I would say you're working with a .1mm tolerance
Haven't tried the resin coating for smoothing out 3D prints yet. Still use a wood filler or bondo. Might have to this a try.
You should! It's so much easier.
I've been using this on my 3d prints for a few years now but you should add baby powder to it, it makes the resin stay in place better and not want to run off the sides as much as normal 3d resin. the mix of baby power can vary but is usually 2 parts resin to 1 part baby powder, but add more as needed. This will smooth out the layer lines faster, giving you a smoother surface in less coats. Also I do the full helmet in one shot, not small shots, with the baby powder added it won't run as much and pool up in areas, and make sure you clean out any areas that you dont want resin on like groves or detail before curing. And after each coat move your bottle of resin away from the UV light to a uv protected area like under a yellow hood of a resin curing station or similar to protect against unwanted curing of the cap and bottle of resin as you apply it. And lastly "before sanding" if you can put the coated part outside or under the uv lamp for about 5 to 10 min or so to cure the small amount of resin that hasnt cured yet on the part, it assures full resin curing incase you missed a spot.
Thanks for the tip!
@@VanOaksProps Np, I know it was a few years ago that you did that video. there have been a few good videos on doing resin with baby powder to smooth out prints. Its a great and fast method to do stuff like helmets and other items. But anyways happy printing!
You can use corn starch as well.
As a resin crafter, can confirm all statements and claims made in this video. 😁
Thanks Meghan!
Hi sorry I'm 7 months late. But would you happen to know if UV Resin could strengthen something like a 3D print?
@@ZetherianUse an ABS like resin and it will likely add some strength without adding a lot of weight
Did you only sand with 120 grit each time? What about once you primed it?
You can go up the grits as high as you like, but I basically knock everything down with 120 and stop around 300-400 if it's just going to get painted. If it'll be metallic paint, I'll go higher and wet sand at 1000-1200.
Can you share the file for the ghost bust (in red behind you in all your videos)? It’s awesome!
I got it off cgtrader.com.
@@VanOaksProps thanks!
I haven't had much success with the resin method, perhaps I need better UV curing lights. I do like the acetone and putty method. I also found that if you thin the putty enough with acetone it can be sprayed quite easily with a large nozzle automotive HVLP sprayer. This worked really well for me as it gets a really nice even layer of putty on and is really easy to sand. I found the resin quite difficult to sand in comparison. Lots of options to get the job done 👍.
Does it not work if you sit it in the sun?
How well does UV resin hide seam lines from pieces that are glued together? Should I still bondo & sand over them before applying a resin?
I would bondo large seams. This technique is really just for hiding layer lines.
That came out great! I have tried this method. It also works well with a small spray bottle. I’ve seen it done with a airbrush also but don’t like that as it goes airborne. Thanks for video!
Thanks! Yeah, airborne resin is a BAD IDEA. Regardless of what you're shooting it out of.
Great video, as usual. I'm curious how much time you spend, on average, making a video? They're very well edited!
It kind of depends on the complexity of the project. This one took a few hours. I've had some take a few days, but most of that time was logging footage and trying to figure out how best to tell the story.
@@VanOaksProps, well you do a great job!
Great finish on the helmet. Thanks for sharing your technique!
My pleasure!
@VanOaksProps so you do commissions? I’ve been looking for someone to 3D print/ and mold me a daft punk guy helmet functioned with LEDS to wear for a while now but to no avail…
I do, however there are other makers who specialize in those helmets who would be better option. Coregeek (Eric Jones - coregeek.net) would be my first recommendation.
@@VanOaksProps I got in touch with him. He does not sell them. You are my last hope for this or I will have to make an attempt to make my own. I have never 3D printed before. What’s best? Filament/ UV resin/resin?
@@XsvShOnUfFvsX Have you tried Etsy? There's quite a few sellers who offer completed helmets. If you're unfamiliar with 3d printing, this is probably not the best project to start with, especially considering the chrome finish on the helmet.
@@VanOaksProps I do have some favorites on ETSY but they don’t respond yet. Also can get pricey. I don’t mind paying for quality work but $1,200 for a prop seems a bit much. Not trying to slam since I don’t know the industry of 3D prints
That's actually not that crazy. The amount of time required to get the helmet perfectly smooth so that it can be chromed (which is a whole other challenging process) and doing all the electronics are both pretty labor intensive tasks. Even more so if the helmet isn't one you make all the time. Hopefully there's a middle ground that works for your budget and still gets you the quality you're after.
Yes, a great technique and all but please do a follow-up paint finishing!!
Thanks!
Would you be able to tell me what kind of glue you used on the helmet to glue the pieces on after it was coated with the UV resin?
Cyanoacrylate (super) glue.
@@VanOaksProps Cool thanks. I wasn't sure if super glue worked still on pieces coated. I am building my mando helmet and am doing the UV resin method. I'm not coating the back side of the pieces I need to glue, but was going to coat the side of the helmet and was worried super glue would not adhere to the resin.
Just wondering why you would add resin then sand and not just sand first and then add resin over top?
Great question. There’s always going to be some degree of sanding, even if you sand your print first and apply resin second.
Would UV resin work on top of areas I used Tamiya Putty as filler? Or does it need to be bare PLA?
Assuming it's porous, it should work. But I can't say for certain since I've never used Tamiya putty.
Great finish on that wow!!
Awesome video. Definitely will give this a try with some models I had ghosting issues with.
Between the resin and automotive filler primer would that make the pla more resistant to water/moisture?
In theory.
Will this still coat as well with using clear UV resin? For gloss outlook
Yes, but it’s not intended to be your finish coat. It will require some light sanding and the primer & paint.
Great video! Is there a certain amount of time I should wait before touching the resin without gloves? How will I know when the resin is fully cured?
It cures pretty quickly, but it’s always best to refer to the manufacturers specs.
Great video - especially the cold weather tips as a bonus. With your respirator, do you use the same grade of cartridge inserts for the resin smoothing and for spray painting i.e P100 plus + organic vapour/gas ?
Yes, the 3M Multi Gas Vapor Cartridge/Filter P100 60926 is my goto.
@@VanOaksProps Thank you.Those ones pretty much cover the entire gambit and it is useful info for people who have never used a respirator.
Is there any reason you didn’t wet sand the resin? It’s what I typically do with my resin prints and it works well to reduce the amount of airborne dust
Nope, although it’s the best way to go about it.
Definitely gonna have to try this one.
You should. I'll never go back to the filler primer days. This adds structural integrity to 3d prints, is easy to sand, dries quickly, and is a lot cheaper.
OK so I clicked on the link for the UV resin that you used and it said that it was PPE resin. I am want to use it on a helmet similar to the one in the video. I printed my helmet using PLA, so my question is could I use the PPE UV resin on a PLA printed object? Would there be any problems?
That's exactly what i did and I haven't had any issues.
Can you resin coat of glazing putty? I was planning on trying this for the first time in a Deathstroke helmet but my PLA spool got stuck and I have some serious under extrusion.
You can.
Curious. How long do you expose the UV light. And how long after the exposure is it ok to handle ?
A few seconds. Once you’ve exposed the resin and wiped the part down with isopropyl alcohol (assuming you’re using standard uv resin) you should be fine to handle it.
@@VanOaksProps ok. Thanks. I used a foam brush & it seemed to “fill in” some of the small crevices a little too thick. So I had to keep brushing it out. I do like it for the large areas & eliminating the lines … it’s great for them. Thanks. I’m really enjoying it. Just practice !
Foam brush for me did the same thing. I would like to find a method where I don’t have to throw away a foam brush every time. Wonder if there is a way to have a dedicated brush, but one that I don’t need to clean off after every use. Maybe a bottle with resin in it, and the brush lives in that bottle or something?
@robertparkhill8106 or you could just clean your brush
seems like ipa after cure is a must, whats weird no matter how long i cure it leaves an oily residue but gone after ipa
That's correct.
If I missed it sorry. But how long do you hit the resin area with the UV light ? Great video thanks.
The reaction happens quickly, so ideally it would be 10 seconds per layer.
I just printed out a haunted mansion door last night and today I'm painting it make an ornament for my boyfriend. Do you know where a life sized snake handle stl might be found? On the DL of course because the mouse is always searching and removing the fun files
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/haunted-mansion-serpent-doorhandle
@@VanOaksProps you sir are a god! thank you! i didnt even know this website existed.
Maybe I'll give this a try again.
You should. There's too many pluses to it over filler primer to not give it another shot.
would 99% isopropyl work for the resin?
Yes, although it would flash pretty quickly. So you'd end up using more in the long run.
why is it when i tried this its all sticky and wont cure?
You're applying it too heavily. It's got to be super thin coats and if you find the surface to be tacky after application, wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol between layers.
What type of filament is this?
Overture PLA
Does it matter if you use ABS resin with a PLA print? Never played with post processing before, but this makes it look super easy
I haven't seen any issues with it.
I accidentally made a mistake with my cura settings and now I basically have a clone trooper helmet with 0.1mm wall thickness. Could this help give structural support and reinforcement??
I don’t know that anything would really salvage a .1mm wall thickness without distorting/warping the walls.
I want to see you paint it!
Lots of research will be required first. Thankfully there’s the Dented Helmet forums.
Is it better to do parts at a time or can you coat the full helmet then cure it ?
I would do one VERY thin layer over the entire helmet, then cure and repeat. You'll want to do it quickly though to prevent oxygen cure inhibition.
I appreciate the Evan and Katelyn nod
Thanks! I really enjoy watching them.
This was awesome. Definitely looking at this technique for a helmet I am making. I am curious, about how long did it take you to do the application and curing of the UV resin? Want to make sure I budget enough time in the day to do a whole helmet thoroughly, and properly. THANKS!
Probably an hour to do the entire helmet.
@@VanOaksProps great info. Thank you!
This is great thanks. When I've done this my parts stay sticky even after being in the sun for hours. I'm applying thin coats so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
Make sure you wipe your print down with isopropyl alcohol between layers. That’s typically what’s caused the problem for me.
@@VanOaksProps thanks, after watching your vid I did that and they're still sticky
@@markcampano1184 Walk me through your process and maybe we can figure out what's happening.
@@VanOaksProps dude thank you. It's an FDM print, I used elgoo grey resin and applied a think coat. Then I used a ultraviolet light (curing machine), still sticky so I placed it in the sun for many hours (4+), sprayed with 90% alcohol, tried curing machine again and still sticky to the touch. I'm sure I did something wrong, just not sure what.
@@markcampano1184 Basically what happens is that a skin is formed over the uncured resin as a result of being exposed to oxygen and it can trap uncured resin below it. That’s the stickiness you’re experiencing.
When that’s happened to me, I’ve just wiped down the print with alcohol, lightly sanded it, rinsed off the resin dust & alcohol wipe again. Then apply my next thin layer of resin.
Try applying your resin in sections (multiple thin layers) and exposing the individual sections as you go. It doesn’t take much time for the resin to react to uv light and beats having to sand off the sticky residue.
Do you think this method increases the ability for PLA to withstand sunlight and weather? Looking at making car parts. Disregard.
I saw you answered a similat question a year ago. Thanks for great video.
Another valuable tutorial and done very well. I just bought XTC 3D resin. My goal is to make a Sirius Black wand for a Christmas present. I've made wands already, but I want a heavier feel with more rigidity. Is XTC an okay choice? Have you used it before? What are some "nice to knows" before I get started? Lot's of details in his wand so I need to ensure the resin doesn't fill them in. As always, thanks Derek! 🤘💀
A word of caution when using XTC 3D. It's VERY thick and your instincts will tell you to apply a thick layer but you'll want to go as thin as possible, otherwise you'll lose any detail. Additionally, you'll want to make sure your 1:1 measurement is as exact as possible. If you get the recipe wrong it'll never really cure correctly. Good luck!
@@VanOaksProps Super useful tips! Thanks a million.
Where's the video where this gets painted?
I didn't film one for this specific helmet, but there is this video where I paint another Star Wars helmet: ua-cam.com/video/A72yCfZWNGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=AaPtYflBKfJcsJ9Q
@@VanOaksProps I'm more interested in how this turned out given it's flat surfaces and the method of filling you used. thanks though for the link
@@IcanCwhatUsay how it turns out will almost always be determined by how much time you put into prep. Especially with 3d printed objects.
This method is dangerous. There is a reason why resin printers have enclosures (and printers themselves shouldn't be placed in living quarters), and spray filler is much more cheaper and convenient to apply.
I would't say it's any more dangerous than handling/sanding UV resin printed parts, but it's extremely important to wear proper PPE.
Have you seen Adam Savage testing a spray can "shaker". Was fairly recent. Might be a good idea for folks.
I did. I’m hoping Mrs. VanOaks gets me one for Christmas.
@@VanOaksProps nothing says "LOVE" like a spray can shaker ! Lol 😆
Impressive! Too bad Bobba doesn’t have Beskar resin… he could fill in that dent!
I have never heard of UV Resin. I learned something new!!! Whoo!!! Nice project!!!! Really tight!!!!! Thank You!!!!! 😲🤔🙏🔥👍😎😃
Damn you and you trying to save me time! I don't have a UV light or UV resin, but might be worth the investment!
I think it is.
Cool trick!
There has to be a better way. Something non-toxic. I'm not trying to kill myself to cut down on print smoothing times. :(
I hear you. Sadly, the whole hobby is full of toxic products. All we can do is wear appropriate protective equipment and work smarter.
Very educational, but you should have moved that bottle and covered it up better while blasting the uv light 😂
You're probably right. LOL
Cool
Be super careful with aerosolized resin. Unless you have a full negative pressure booth you will cover yourself with resin. I don't recommend it.
I am 100% AGAINST spraying resin through an airbrush. It's a horrible idea and should not be done.
This would be work the risk if you didn't have to sand at all. Otherwise sanding and primer is better for me. I don't need to introduce more toxic products and then put that in the air by sanding.
I hear you. In truth, all of the products mentioned are toxic when applied and sanded. It just comes down to what works for you. Just be safe, regardless of your preferred method.
@@VanOaksProps oh yeah. 100% agree. But so many people don't understand resin and the dangers. You at least call that out. And you say no to spraying resin, which is becoming more popular.
You pour liquids into the cap and cut sandpaper with scissor? C'mon, we aren't animals.
Hahahaha
Ahhhh, Cringe video, eh? man keeps shining his UV light into his resin bottle. lol
…And yet resin doesn’t harden. It was off angle and didn’t reach the resin inside.