Great video! I've got the Garmin PowerSwitch mounted to the Blaze Off-Road bracket in my Lexus GX 550. It's really a sweet setup and it works flawlessly. Blaze Off-Road has several install videos that show how to install both the bracket and the PowerSwitch. It makes the installation a snap.
Thank you for sharing this informative video tutorial. I appreciated how you composed the camera angles, making it easy to follow along with both the video content and your explanations. I've subscribed!
This is awesome! I'm so glad i came across this video because I've been looking for a another Bluetooth controller besides the six-shooter. Garmin is really quality brand as well. Great video! Subscribed!
Awesome job. Well done...answered a lot of install questions I had. I do have one question...why didn't you just run the Garmin ground to the ground bar instead of running that to the battery as well?
Thank you. I suppose I could have done that but the bus bar only has 6 spots and I wanted to keep them open for my accessories I’m attaching to the PowerSwitch without having to double any up. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I noticed you didn’t put an inline fuse on your ditch light wiring. The Garmin switches trip at 30A, but your ditch wiring looked thinner than 30A wiring? Unless I have missed something. Looking at doing the same in my rig. Thanks.
Thank you for this question. I have been trying to find an answer as to if I need to put an in-line fuse on the lower amp components. I have an in-line fuse on my refrigerator and DC outlet in the back both 15 amp. My compressor is running off of a relay and has a 40 amp fuse attached directly to the battery. My light bar should be good with the 30 amp provided by Garmin PowerSwitch. But my ditch lights only take 1.1 amps each so the could be fused down to 5 or 10 amps. But all I can find for instructions is to make sure to have the right gauge wire for each accessory. I’m gonna reach out to Garmin directly to understand why there is no need for an in-line fuse on lower amp components and I’ll get back to you with the answer.
@@destinationjourney_overland yes the manual doesn’t seem to mention this… I also thought that was odd. Local 4x4 shop said it isn’t needed however my two electrical engineering friends disagree 😂 And it makes perfect sense to never run cable below a fuse rating. The intern Garmin components will trip on a short (example wire rubs onto the chassis) or at 30A. If your ditch lights for what ever reason start drawing 25A and your cable is 15A rated, the 30A trip isn’t going to help, and you’ll melt your wiring potentially starting a fire. I am thinking of running an inline fuse block when I build mine, so all wires are fused right after the Garmin. Hope you share the reply from Garmin. Same issue with my low amp camping lights around the vehicle.
@@DeKay Garmin never responded to me, so I reached out to Blaze Offroad who sells a Garmin PowerSwitch Kit and are very familiar with the product. Here is their answer, "The PowerSwitch is a MOSFET based intelligent switching system and you should NOT use an inline fuse on any of the circuits. The Garmin does not push current to a device, it simply opens the gate for the needed current to be drawn from what you connect to it!" So this tells me no inline fuse.
Great video, I know you said you were leaving backlight cable separate for your specific plan, but in theory could you run it to the Garmin on a separate channel than the main beam and control independently of the main ditch beam, correct? Thats what I'm looking to do, trying to confirm.
Did you change the terminal connector of the 4 gauge cables from Amazon. It only comes with 5/16 and 3/8, still too big to connect to the power switch.
The only primary issue I can see is if you are reversing, with reverse camera on, and wanting to utilize the touchscreen at the same time, maybe for winch, locker, or lights. Sure, can move it to park, unless your vehicle is in a precarious position. I'm possibly splitting hairs here. At that point, the phone could be used also. I'd like options of both touchscreen and hard switches, assuming real estate inside the cab isn't too limited.
You can also wire a trigger wire from the OEM backup light to one of the trigger inputs on the powerswitch and have all of the rear Offroad lights come on, for example. So no buttons to touch.
I’m considering to have a Garmin switch. My question is does it allow you to use backlight as well as main beam features of diode hood lights through garmin app?
That is correct. I run the power from the compressor through a relay with the main power going directly to the battery and the other wires going to the PowerSwitch. This lets me control my compressor from my phone. Thanks for watching
Although the top is exposed which could still result in an accidental short if not careful, there are 4 other mounting points on that SDHQ battery terminal. The cover does a great job of reducing the exposed surface area while keeping them clean and protecting them from corrosion. And I think they look nice. Thanks for watching!
So let me get this straight, you just literally run your power wire from your external accessories (light bars, ditch lights, you name it) to the powerswitch, hook it up to your battery and that's it? This is way less intimidating than running miles of wire to a switch panel!
That is correct. Except for things that require more power than the Garmin PowerSwitch can handle like an air compressor. Then you run your power from the accessory and car battery through a relay and then to the powerswitch. Just one extra step and that too is extremely easy. Thanks for watching!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! I've got the Garmin PowerSwitch mounted to the Blaze Off-Road bracket in my Lexus GX 550. It's really a sweet setup and it works flawlessly. Blaze Off-Road has several install videos that show how to install both the bracket and the PowerSwitch. It makes the installation a snap.
I’ve been using the power switch since last summer and love it.
It’s been a great upgrade. I don’t have a single complaint. Thanks for watching.
Awesome Video! We love the PowerSwitch system!
Thank you. Agree. It has been a major improvement.
Thank you for sharing this informative video tutorial. I appreciated how you composed the camera angles, making it easy to follow along with both the video content and your explanations. I've subscribed!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is awesome! I'm so glad i came across this video because I've been looking for a another Bluetooth controller besides the six-shooter. Garmin is really quality brand as well. Great video! Subscribed!
I’ve been running the Garmin power switch now for three or four months and it has worked flawlessly. Highly recommend the upgrade.
Super clean setup Brother
Thank you!
Very clean installation
Thanks 👍
Awesome job. Well done...answered a lot of install questions I had. I do have one question...why didn't you just run the Garmin ground to the ground bar instead of running that to the battery as well?
Thank you. I suppose I could have done that but the bus bar only has 6 spots and I wanted to keep them open for my accessories I’m attaching to the PowerSwitch without having to double any up. Thanks for watching.
Very nice. Looking into get one as well. Are you planing to go to RMTR again?
Thank you. Yes, I’m going to try and get back into the RMTR. Last year was great and excited do it again.
This is helpful. Other than cosmetics, is there a reason to install Raptor lights?
In my opinion they are just cosmetic. Thanks for watching
Great video. I noticed you didn’t put an inline fuse on your ditch light wiring. The Garmin switches trip at 30A, but your ditch wiring looked thinner than 30A wiring? Unless I have missed something. Looking at doing the same in my rig. Thanks.
Thank you for this question. I have been trying to find an answer as to if I need to put an in-line fuse on the lower amp components. I have an in-line fuse on my refrigerator and DC outlet in the back both 15 amp. My compressor is running off of a relay and has a 40 amp fuse attached directly to the battery. My light bar should be good with the 30 amp provided by Garmin PowerSwitch. But my ditch lights only take 1.1 amps each so the could be fused down to 5 or 10 amps. But all I can find for instructions is to make sure to have the right gauge wire for each accessory. I’m gonna reach out to Garmin directly to understand why there is no need for an in-line fuse on lower amp components and I’ll get back to you with the answer.
@@destinationjourney_overland yes the manual doesn’t seem to mention this… I also thought that was odd. Local 4x4 shop said it isn’t needed however my two electrical engineering friends disagree 😂 And it makes perfect sense to never run cable below a fuse rating. The intern Garmin components will trip on a short (example wire rubs onto the chassis) or at 30A. If your ditch lights for what ever reason start drawing 25A and your cable is 15A rated, the 30A trip isn’t going to help, and you’ll melt your wiring potentially starting a fire. I am thinking of running an inline fuse block when I build mine, so all wires are fused right after the Garmin. Hope you share the reply from Garmin. Same issue with my low amp camping lights around the vehicle.
@@destinationjourney_overlandcurious if you got an answer to this.
Thanks
@@DeKay Garmin never responded to me, so I reached out to Blaze Offroad who sells a Garmin PowerSwitch Kit and are very familiar with the product. Here is their answer, "The PowerSwitch is a MOSFET based intelligent switching system and you should NOT use an inline fuse on any of the circuits. The Garmin does not push current to a device, it simply opens the gate for the needed current to be drawn from what you connect to it!" So this tells me no inline fuse.
Great video, I know you said you were leaving backlight cable separate for your specific plan, but in theory could you run it to the Garmin on a separate channel than the main beam and control independently of the main ditch beam, correct? Thats what I'm looking to do, trying to confirm.
Yes. That is correct. That is how I had it configured on my trigger six shooter and it worked great.
Awesome thanks for the reply.
Did you change the terminal connector of the 4 gauge cables from Amazon. It only comes with 5/16 and 3/8, still too big to connect to the power switch.
The only primary issue I can see is if you are reversing, with reverse camera on, and wanting to utilize the touchscreen at the same time, maybe for winch, locker, or lights. Sure, can move it to park, unless your vehicle is in a precarious position. I'm possibly splitting hairs here.
At that point, the phone could be used also. I'd like options of both touchscreen and hard switches, assuming real estate inside the cab isn't too limited.
You can also wire a trigger wire from the OEM backup light to one of the trigger inputs on the powerswitch and have all of the rear Offroad lights come on, for example. So no buttons to touch.
Such a handsome young man!
Haha
I want to do this… but first I need to purchase the Garmin Trend XL 10".
I’m considering to have a Garmin switch. My question is does it allow you to use backlight as well as main beam features of diode hood lights through garmin app?
Yes. You would just need to use two of the switches. One for back lights. One for main beams.
Are you controlling your compressor with the Garmin Power Switch?
That is correct. I run the power from the compressor through a relay with the main power going directly to the battery and the other wires going to the PowerSwitch. This lets me control my compressor from my phone. Thanks for watching
What is the point of the battery positive post cover, if the top scew teminal is completely exposed?
Although the top is exposed which could still result in an accidental short if not careful, there are 4 other mounting points on that SDHQ battery terminal. The cover does a great job of reducing the exposed surface area while keeping them clean and protecting them from corrosion. And I think they look nice. Thanks for watching!
So let me get this straight, you just literally run your power wire from your external accessories (light bars, ditch lights, you name it) to the powerswitch, hook it up to your battery and that's it? This is way less intimidating than running miles of wire to a switch panel!
That is correct. Except for things that require more power than the Garmin PowerSwitch can handle like an air compressor. Then you run your power from the accessory and car battery through a relay and then to the powerswitch. Just one extra step and that too is extremely easy. Thanks for watching!