haute couture vs rtw vs sewing
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- Опубліковано 13 кві 2024
- Claire Shaeffer compares haute couture, rtw (ready-to-wear), and home sewing in this video. What are the similarities and differences? Claire is the author of Couture Sewing Techniques and Sewing for the Apparel Industry.
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I love to use a mix of couture, RTW and home sewing techniques! I think some couture techniques in the hands of a non-professional can make a garment look more homemade rather than more expensive. I like to aim for a high end RTW look, but with a perfect custom fit. I don't like for people to be able to tell that I made something myself.
I agree a mix is a great idea; and yes, you can always get too much of a good thing.
Haute couture techniques turn a garment into a piece of art in my opinion. As a dressmaker myself I always pick my battles so to say, because I love to make garments beautiful inside and out, which for me is easier by handsewing. But I have to be economical as well and to be honest, there aren’t many people willing to pay for the extra time needed. (Understandably)
It is always important to find the right mix, but I always try to include something as most people do appreciate it when they have „proof“ their garment isn’t off the rack.
Some things I don’t compromise on are handsewn buttonholes, hems, zippers and the last touches on the lining. The time I get from doing them by machine aren’t justified by the cheaper look and with some practice it doesn’t take that long anyway.
I met Claire at least 30 years ago when she came to out sewing guild in Plymouth Mi, just as it was created. I have had her early books. She is awesome.❤
I remember that trip!
That's wonderful. I knew my grandma was a terrific seamstress and taylor. You made me realize she sewed abiding by haute-coûture standards. Every single thing she ever made was a thing of beauty. Thank you!
I grew up with my mom as a seamstress and she had an overlocker in the living room and an old industrial Singer sewing machine. She worked in the garment industry but back then she would work from home sewing hundreds of blouses and dresses. What I disliked was the humming of those 2 machines late at night and she knew it. Oh, how I yearn to see my mom again at those machines and regret how I acted toward her. I miss you, Mom, rest in peace. I loved watching your video, thank you!
Thank you. Love your book. Very happy you have a channel.
I searched and searched for your book several years ago, to no avail! I’m so happy to find you here! I’m now 70 and am mostly sewing for myself and granddaughters (theirs being alterations to formal wear). Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience with me!
WOW! Amazing that you have a UA-cam channel now and I’m just discovering it. Thank you for your excellent works and for sharing such amazing knowledge
Your description of the hand sewing process brings memories of my mom sewing our clothes; primarily, our special occassion clothes. She sewed my Christening gown from her wedding gown, used her veil, lace and beads to decorate the gown. I remember when she was sewing a special occassion dress she would use muslim to practice. I hated having to stand around for the fittings, the fabric was itchy and the pins poked and just having to stand still seemed made me want to move around that much more. What I wouldnt give to have that experience with her again. I learned so much sometimes from direct teachings and instructions but mostly from observing. It is because of her that I can look at clothhing and see how it is constucted. I sew exclusively by hand not because I want to but because I am absolute idiot with a sewing machine. I mean horrible. I remember the first time I saw my baptism gown I thought it ws pretty. When she explained to me the process and what went into the detailing, it became not just pretty but special. To this day I can not look at pintuck pleats without thinking of her. To think that she sat and sewed those pleats amazes me and humbles and inspires me. This is my first time coming across your channel and I have absolutely enjoyed it and learned from it. Thank youl
I have your book! From years ago! I love looking at it, but sadly I haven’t had time to sew much at all
You can always come back to sewing when you have time. Enjoy other things now.
This was very interesting, and thank you! I was particularly surprised about the seams, how the wide ones weren't trimmed. It makes you realize that you can use your judgment when sewing, and you don't "have" to do things in the popular way, because couture houses do things very differently from ready-to-wear, anyhow.
I am a home sewer and found this so very interesting. When I was growing up my best friends grandmother made most of her and her sisters clothing. I would watch her in fascination sometimes. Now with your explanation I see that she used a lot of hand couture finishes. She was an amazing seamstress. I wish I had had her teach me techniques back then. No one in my family sewed I ended up learning in home economics
One factor I thought of bespoke is how well pressed the outfit looks on the wearer, I.e. noticeable lack of wrinkling of the fabric.
A great lesson Claire. I made two jackets (one red wool, the other black linen) with your Vogue 7467 pattern. They turned out beautifully and I learnt so much from that pattern that my overall sewing skills were lifted many notches.
Hmm, the linen was more challenging than the wool. I think you will agree that couture is time consuming and sometimes challenging, but not really difficult when you take it one step at a time.
For a dedicated home sewist, this was very informative, thank you! I will be watching more of these, hoping in my next life to be a Paris couture seamstress.... I also hope better AI may provide more accurate subtitles, it must be frustrating for those who rely on these for comprehension - sometimes hilarious but more often plain wrong and confusing.
Anita, I'm working on the subtitles.
Love your book 'Couture Sewing Techniques'. It's helped me immensely to achieve the desired looks and finishes in my own garments, though practice makes perfect :)
I own your Haute Couture book. Have had it for quite a few years now.
Thank you for the video. It was particularly entertaining watching the technology make TOILE into TROLL at minute 7. It doesn't know the word TOILE. It had other errors for toile but I liked the troll the best.
I think I've figured out how to get rid of the UA-cam AI in the future. --not sure I can delete it on this but I'm trying
Thankyou for your advice and your books. I've had the books and the Chanel style jacket pattern for a number of years. As I'm a difficult size to fit (bigger bust, smaller hips, long legs) and just under 6ft tall I've been making my own clothes since the late 1960's. I have learnt to incorporate some of the techniques you show to make my projects fit better and last longer. At nearly 70 it takes me longer these days to make something but I hope to keep going for some years yet.
Thank you for this history and the nugget about a smaller seam allowance when setting in a sleeve!
Thank you so much for sharing. Im an ageing gentleman who once studied fashion design but never worked in the rag trade officially. However, I do sew and make items, at different levels, and have a modest collection of HC and rtw clothes. The true details of finesse and costfuction Ive learnt from my HC pieces.
Nikolas, tell me about costfunction. Is it something I might know by another name?
@@claireshaeffer7616 my apologies, it is "construction"
@@nikolaskoulountis6200 is that a typo or a new word I should remember. Thx
@@claireshaeffer7616 typo
@@nikolaskoulountis6200 thx
I would love to see more of your videos. Thanks for sharing with us ❤👋😊🇦🇺🥰❤️❤️❤️☕️
I'm working on them, but I'm not very fast. There's a large new world to learn how to do things when posting.
Thank you, so interesting and a great overview of sewing techniques ❤
Thank you so much for your inspiring lessons.💐
Karin, always nice to see your posts.
This was wonderfully informative. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. ❤
This was very interesting and informative. Thank you.
Boy, this brought back memories. In the mid ‘70s-late ‘80s, I worked in the garment industry in NYC and NJ.
You probably know some great techniques!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. I really appreciate you teaching us the difference between types of sewing techniques. I have two of your books and am applying some of the couture techniques to my home sewing creations so they will look better and last longer.
This is one of the mos interesting videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you.
Great video …. I really enjoyed learning the differences … 💖💖💖
Thank you, this was fascinating.
Good morning Claire! I’m very excited today to have just ordered on Etsy your pants and jacket patterns. ❤️ Can hardly wait to try my hand at them!
This video will improve my sewing and make me understand why I do things the hard way!
I heard you on the Threads podcast, ran out for your books which I find fascinating. Thank you! One should always aspire to make better sewing.
wonderful interesting video, thank you! I sew at home and am happy to learn.
I found this video very interesting...Thank you😊
that was wonderful to watch! My sewing journey has taken me now to drafting flat patterns (for myself) and making garments from them. And I guess if my Mom hadn't been an inspiration (she had 4 daughters to sew for), I would surely be missing out on such an enjoyable hobby. thank you for a well presented video.
I worked for Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture and there were very large majority of garments that were completely hand sewn, and later I worked for Thierry Mugler and there were a pretty even mix of both hand sewn and machine for the strategic lines such as along the side and shoulders. I do know of some collections where each garment is a mix, and only a very few pieces are sewn by hand this day and age...
Kevin I have a lot of YSL HC, but I don't think I have any that are completely handsewn. Most have the vertical seams stitched. I improved my tailoring examining YSL. Did you know Laurence?
Thank you, very informative lecture. I’m attending fashion school at the moment.
Thank you. This was so interesting!
Thankyou Clare for this fascinating & informative video! Hello from Melbourne Australia 🤩🇦🇺🐨🦘🦘🦘🦘❤️
There is a bar in Melbourne with the best-ever fish & chips.
Very useful information!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks Claire for the ready to wear vs haute couture. I enjoy hearing about the techniques as a reference before starting a garment. Hand sewing is such a wonderful tool to make your garments much softer and the hand made buttonholes make all the difference in a beautiful jacket or dress. To learn the handmade buttonhole technique you just need to practice making the buttonholes on all types of luxury fabrics in order to get them to look professional. It is always worth the effort put forth.
This was fascinating
Beautiful
Thank you for this video Claire. I'm so glad that after your last book you've found this new way to bring your knowledge to us.
Hi Claire, I gained much from this video, and study one or another of your books every day. I even have your little paperback "Sew Successful" published in 1984. But I must say that none of the methods for marking fabric, recommended by you or anyone else, has been successful for me. It has been very frustrating, after spending so much effort in either designing or correcting a pattern for myself or making changes. However, I recently hit upon a technique that works, although labor intensive.
First, I have a large cutting mat, used only for the grid (not cutting), and 2' wide tracing paper, sold on a roll from Amazon. Therefore, it is easy to see the grid through the tracing paper, and also see the markings on a commercial or self-made pattern placed between the grid and a new sheet. The pattern is easily aligned with the grid for the straight grain, and a seam allowance of 1/2 or 1 inch is easily added also with the help of the grid. I use a very fine tip pen or pencil for tracing a new pattern.
Now for the fabric: Pining the pattern on the fabric, I first cut both pattern and fabric along the seam allowance line. Then, for each seam, one at a time, I unpin and cut only the pattern, barely within the seam allowance next to the seam line. Using this cut edge as guide, I thread mark the fabric with running stitches. I also mark the notches with a different colored thread. Later when I sew the garment, I can match these and I stitch the seam just barely next to the thread markings. What do you think? If you have any suggestions on how to improve this system, I am very interested.
Claire, you are very well known and reputable in the industry. Please have someone spell check your captions in your videos, it undermines your credibility.
Alex, thank you for the note. I wrote subtitles and they can be posted, but I haven't been able to delete the AI subtitles. I'm working on it.
A.I. = Absolute Idiocy.
One thing I cannot stand is when so many who don't know any better use the word Haute Couture for high end ready to wear. I get so annoyed so have to then explain what Haute Couture entails.... the 2 shows a year the minimum number of clothes that are shown,being based in Paris and having a certain number of employees lol! But being in the trade does that I guess lol!
Ms Claire,
Thank You for sharing your knowledge
I look forward to your videos and love your book.
What patterns would You suggest for someone who wants to sew more advanced patterns but needs very good directions ?
I have looked for your patterns but I only find them secondhand
I prefer to use new patterns
Try Claire-Tyler.com in the UK for new patterns. I sold her my stock.
@@claireshaeffer7616 I will ...
Thank You
❤❤❤
You are a national treasure!
LA Trade Tech. Went there too.
I went to Laney in Oakland. CA has a great jr. college system! Did you take classes from Helen Armstrong. She was a wonderful friend.
Hi claudia, thank you for posting your videos i am new at sewing and love the craftsmanship of couture. I have a chanel jacket that i think is a knockoff but have no understanding if it is or not, may i send you pictures and you give your comments on what you think?
I would be happy to look at your photos. This early video I made about an original and a copy might be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/rFDWPvnR9fo/v-deo.html
Great video! Just two requests. Please (1) put the handful of technical terms in the description, so those hearing them for the first time can see how they are spelled, and (2) take out the embedded subtitles, which are computer-generated, so they contain lots of errors, but if desired can be turned on by the viewer thanks to the controls available by tapping on the gear made visible by tapping once on the video window. Thanks for listening, even if you decide not to do it.
I’ve always thought haute couture as being legal if only made by certain designers in Paris.
Good idea about the terms. I'm working on the subtitles, but it isn't easy.
Good day madame, thank you for this nice video. I was wondering if you say "flou" in english same as in french ? I wrote it "blur" do i mistaken it ?
Matilda, I pronounce "flou" like "flew" but my French is terrible.
@@claireshaeffer7616 thank you !
Имя КЛЕР ШЕФФЕР можно писать только с Заглавной Буквы, и Заглавными Буквами в Ее Имени Имеют Право Быть Все.
С Огромным Уважением, Почтением и Благодарностью ко Всему что Вы Сделали и Делаете!!!
🤗❤️🙏🌹
Communist Commando says this podcast is very useful for repairing my uniform. Thanks.
A lot of these Couture gowns are held by museum s. Who in turn photograph them.
These gowns were worn once and had to be spot cleaned by a professional.
The museum's have provided photos on the internet including insides of dresses. The thing that has grabbed my attention is they have no seam finishes. None nothing except clipping to reduce bulk or release seams
There is no binding no Hong Kong seams, french seams, welt seams, over casting, sergers/overlocking, zigzag stitches or any other stitchers or pinking shear through the 60s. You can boning channels clearly and built in cups. I think ready to run wear is expected to have good looking seams. I have always believed you must have good inside seam finishes
But designer gowns of the past both Europe and American haute couture does not didn't have.
I like vintage styles and research those styles from expensive auction houses to museum's. These haute couture dresses were only ment to be worn once and never to be laundered or dry cleaned.
Research yourselves
I disagree with some of your remarks. The preferred seam finish in hc is hand overcasting which is softer and less likely to show on the RS of the garment. In flou (dressmaking), dresses rarely have linings because they can distort the drape or design of the garment. In rtw, linings cover the seams, etc. so they look neat and tidy on the hanger. You are right--today, many designs are worn only once especially by the new rich in America. This has not always been true. Many women will wear a garment again when the place and people are different. I have a large collection of hc, including a pretty Dior dress. I'll work on a video to show you the inside as well as the outside of the dress. I haven't discussed tailleur today because many of them have linings. Thank you for your comment. It gives me several ideas for future vlogs.
This video is super informative ! Thanks for posting !