I remember in my tailoring classes in college, I learned these tailiring secrets. I nade a 3 piece skirt, jacket and vest set using them The handwork helped me enjoy the process. Even today, I rarely run my nachive at the max speed, but rather sonewhere between slow and medium. It seems now a days everyone seems to want to be the first to complete things and move on to the next project. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
There’s a dance shop in my town that sells lamb’s wool. I looked there because I took dance in my youth; On point shoes were stuffed with it. It’s a winner for me. 😘
Lynn, thanks for the reminder. I used to buy lamb's wool at the drug store and assumed that it was simply no longer available. I'll post it on the Sewfari Divas Facebook page.
Claire, I have quite a specific question regarding wool crepe! In your fabric sewing guide, you mention that you should preshrink all wools, except crepe. I was wondering why that is, and how the finished garment should be laundered to avoid any shrinking later. The stuff I have is a medium weight double faced virgin wool crepe. I adore working with rayon crepe, but this is my first venture into this particular textile, so any advice is welcome, thank you!
You mentioned the problem of stooped shoulders, and solving the problem with a yoke. But I have noticed on my dress form (size 6) that getting a smooth back without a dart at the armscye or a yoke seems impossible. The best solution (that I know of; I am no expert) is to create a dart at the center lower back at the waist where the spine curves. This however prevents a straight grain down the center of the back, and cinches the waist. This seemed fashionable in earlier centuries, especially for vests or tight bodices, from the patterns I've studied. Does anyone do this now, to keep the back smooth and formfitting? The center back is always on the lengthwise grain, unless the entire top is cut on the bias.
Linda you can place the interfacing at the outset if you baste the dart. Center the interfacing strip over the basted line, then stitch on the basting. Or after you have stitched the dart, center the interfacing over the stitching and sew permanently with hand running stitches--no, you don't want to machine stitch again; it will be too stiff.
I remember in my tailoring classes in college, I learned these tailiring secrets. I nade a 3 piece skirt, jacket and vest set using them
The handwork helped me enjoy the process.
Even today, I rarely run my nachive at the max speed, but rather sonewhere between slow and medium.
It seems now a days everyone seems to want to be the first to complete things and move on to the next project.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thank you!
Thanks to show the beauty of hand made in couture pieces
Thank you and wonderful video. I really liked #13 and the contrast piping detail between the facing and lining of the jacket.
Lovely, Claire. Thank you so much
Thank you Claire.
Thank you Claire, again that was a joy to watch.
Thank you Claire, These are great tips! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, Claire. I’ve used your books and DVDs for many years. I am really enjoying your UA-cam videos.
There’s a dance shop in my town that sells lamb’s wool. I looked there because I took dance in my youth; On point shoes were stuffed with it. It’s a winner for me. 😘
Lynn, thanks for the reminder. I used to buy lamb's wool at the drug store and assumed that it was simply no longer available. I'll post it on the Sewfari Divas Facebook page.
@@claireshaeffer7616 Thanks for pointing out the FP page . I’ve requested to join. 💞
Thank you! I want to use all of the secrets!
This is fascinating! Thank you so much!!
Thanks 🙏 sooo very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise!❤️❤️❤️
thank you Claire. love your books! Really helpful!
Claire, I have quite a specific question regarding wool crepe! In your fabric sewing guide, you mention that you should preshrink all wools, except crepe. I was wondering why that is, and how the finished garment should be laundered to avoid any shrinking later. The stuff I have is a medium weight double faced virgin wool crepe. I adore working with rayon crepe, but this is my first venture into this particular textile, so any advice is welcome, thank you!
You mentioned the problem of stooped shoulders, and solving the problem with a yoke. But I have noticed on my dress form (size 6) that getting a smooth back without a dart at the armscye or a yoke seems impossible. The best solution (that I know of; I am no expert) is to create a dart at the center lower back at the waist where the spine curves. This however prevents a straight grain down the center of the back, and cinches the waist. This seemed fashionable in earlier centuries, especially for vests or tight bodices, from the patterns I've studied. Does anyone do this now, to keep the back smooth and formfitting? The center back is always on the lengthwise grain, unless the entire top is cut on the bias.
Linda, the CB doesn't have to be ongrain if it corrects the fit.
I wonder, if the rounding of the shoulders is not too severe, if the problem can be solved with shoulder pads.
Linda, shoulder or neck darts would probably work better. Claire
I don't understand #10... exactly where the interfacing is placed, or how it can be pressed opposite to that of the dart
Linda you can place the interfacing at the outset if you baste the dart. Center the interfacing strip over the basted line, then stitch on the basting. Or after you have stitched the dart, center the interfacing over the stitching and sew permanently with hand running stitches--no, you don't want to machine stitch again; it will be too stiff.