All those traditional hand tools remind me of happy hours with my late father-in-law in his carpentry shop. Thank you for such clarity in your video instructions
I finished my box yesterday. I looks great. Thanks for your instruction. And, my fingers have almost healed from using that miniature router for those eight mortises .
I'm so glad I stumbled across your channel tonight, not only to watch you making this excellent box, but to see the use of a plumbing fitting on your chop saw! I was only thinking this afternoon, 'what can I use', and here it is! Thank you and keep up the good work!
Hey Peter, thanks for the comments. I too spent a while working out how to sort out dust extraction from my chop saw, especially as in my small small shop means the extraction post was pretty close to the back wall. I was digging through the back of my shed looking for something else when I came across some plumbing pipe and elbows left over from when I refitted the kitchen and had a brain wave ...
you elaborated very well, sir … even took into consideration american terms … sharing many tips along the way … explained why a person might not do certain things. thanks for sharing! btw … nice video quality.
I just subscribed because you use the full historic range of woodworking tools and techniques. Then you throw in what appear to be your own tips and tricks that I've never seen before. Add in your engaging video editing (which I happen to teach at college) and you've earned another devotee.
Adventures In T-Shirts Woodwork as Welch pointed out a lot of time could have been saved and the dados would have been easier and more accurate with a router or even a table saw in some cases. Also cutting them at the same time from the same piece of wood, then cut that down to your side pieces. You can do your flush edging with a straight bit and roller guide etc. I’m a big fan of routers and power tools in general. But if you prefer digging them out by hand that’s fine too. No disrespect intended, just an observation.
@@makemyday1477 Hey, aha yes I see what you mean, no offence taken. I've nothing against power tools and machines, it's just that I tend to mostly post hand tool projects on this channel as that's sort of become the theme. I use my power tools routers, tables saws, etc much more on commercial jobs, but this was very much a hobby project - the band saw got a lot of action in this build as it was new to my home shop so was having a play with it. I don't mind admitting that the European beach I was using was particularly hard and cutting the dados by hand wasn't the most fun! But these projects are more about the doing than the getting done.
Great instructional video with some good construction tips! Enjoyed seeing the use of hand tools with low dependency on machinery. Some old world charm evident in the approach and pleasing box design. Thanks for the thoughtful commentary and careful edits!
Nice design: loved the elegant curve to the front. Some helpful building techniques in there as well. And yes, I agree, the contrasting woods look great after adding the finish. Thanks for sharing. Best wishes
Thank you Mark. Yes, the wood gets dull while working it, not least because of the amount off sanding dust so it's always a pleasant surprise when that finish goes on and the colours and textures make their presence known.
The band saw is Axminster's 250N it's the slightly bigger second size up, and is a great hobby choice - it's just a bit bigger than the standard entry level saws common to most manufacturers so it has a little more cutting depth. The drill press is just a cheap 5 speed belt driven affair. I think is an Ebauer, but I think like a lot of bottom end kit, there are probable versions with many badges on.
What a nice looking box. The curved front makes it look very elegant in a simple, clean way. Wonderful build. I always learn a small tip or two from watching your videos. The ones from this video: Popsicle sticks as spacers and the trace with a washer trick. Thank you.
Ustamız,tek kelime ile harika bir işçilik çıkarmıştır Kendisini tebrik ediyorum.Bir işin üzerinde duyu organlarının uyumunu da izlemiş olduk.İnanın defalarca izledim.
I can see where you would us the bottom portion of the box to trace the pattern out instead of using the top as a pattern. There is always the bottom pattern will not be exactly the same as the top specifications, as there is such a close tolerance edging showing and would not match the top exposed edges showing. Was a great idea and enjoyed the performance and learned much from it.
Great work love the use of hand tools where possible one thing intrigued me though before glueing your top on why didn't you use it as a template to make your lid beautiful box great contrast with different woods
Hi Allan, thanks for you comments. I can't remember why I didn't use the top as a template, it's possible it just didn't occur to me. I do remember that my main concern was ensuring the visible part of the lid has a uniform inset so as such, once I had the inner part cut to size and fitted to the top I may have felt more comfortable gaining this accuracy by fitting the lid on the job. My tendency is usually to fit on the job rather than pre measure or mark out, but your suggestion regarding templating is just as valid, maybe even a better approach. Thanks for the feedback.
Well, I tried this front with sapele with a form similar to yours, the sapele fractured (split out on the outside of the curve) before I got the form half way closed, and that was way difficult. I had 4 1/8 inches pieces of sapele. The book I am reading on wood bending says sapele is not a good bending wood (look great, though). Says the grain is too close. It recommends white oak, European Ash, Dutch Elm (is there any of this still living?), yellow birch (American), Sycamore, and European Walnut. I have some white oak on hand, will try that over the next few days. I always use Titebond 2 (a PVA glue), I wonder if a glue with a longer open time (Titebond 3) would help.
Hi Paul, I'm sorry you had some issues with bending the sapele. I've not had the issues you describe - maybe I have been lucky. I have always had the grain running across the bend, I don't know if that help or hindered to be honest. I made the laminate pieces very thin, and the curves on the former were fairly gentle. It also helps to allow the glue to soak in as this does make the wood more pliable - a glue with a longer open time would certainly help there. Do let me know how you get on with your white oak.
Today I approached this again: 1: made my thin pieces out of white oak; 2: made pieces thinner, about 2 mm thick (about 1/16 inch); 3: used only three slats instead of 4, total width less than 1/4 inch; 4: used Titebond 3 instead of my usual Titebond 2 (3 has a longer open time and is thinner); 5: I made a new form with a less severe curve (about inch instead of 1.5 inch); I was still difficult to close the vice, I added 2 heavy F clamps and 2 heavy C clamps. I finally got it closed, it doesn't look like it split. I'll leave it overnight and report tomorrow. I wonder if I'll get any spring back.
Yes, the front looks like it came out fine. I made the back and tomorrow, its on to the sides. Thanks for your video. Really well done. This is my first foray into bending, I had been looking out for something as my first bending project, this was a perfect fit.
Lovely old-school craftsmanship! Long time since I saw someone use a hand drill! Just one question.... when you were cutting the former from construction timber for the bowed front, did you have any problems with the blade on your bandsaw 'wandering' from your chosen path? Enjoyed every minute of your presentation. You clearly have a passion for quality!
Hi David, thanks for the comments. I don't recall having any problems keeping the blade on path. Of course I'm probably not quite as concerened with absolute precision on the former as I would be cutting an actual component as I know that the laminate pieces will have their own resistance as so any lumps or bumps on the curves will get smothered out a little when gluing up. Having said that I do try and cut as accurately as possible. I spent quite some time setting up my band saw properly when I first got it, and I regularly check things are still set correctly. I also make sure the blade is tensioned correctly and always have a decent blade loaded.
I really enjoyed this video. I was wondering how you addressed the starting cut that you made with the bandsaw for the top base? Did you cut a small piece of material and fill in?
Great video and woodwork. Can I suggest that you put your lighting in front of you and on the work, the light behind you just creates a shadow right where you want the most light for the camera to pick up what you are doing.
Hi Taryn. Thanks for your feedback. Yes. you are right, this was one of my earlier videos and I hand't properly got to grips with the lighting. In later projects hopefully you'll see a vast improvement as I added a load of extra lighting around the workshop - it's still not perfect but I'll keep making improvements.
Thank you. I'm afraid I don't have any plans to share, they are all in my head. The dimensions are completely down to the material I had available. The width of the beach dictated the maximum width the collar and base could be I work back from there to decide on the with of the ends of the box. The heigh was down to the width of the sapele board I was working with.
Hi, thanks for the comment. It's a good idea, usually I try avoid using any hardware, preferring joinery to secure everything. I'm not sure why I choose screws in this instance to be honest, although my engineering impulse would be to avoid using dowels in the same alignment as the pulling force for fear of them pulling out - I'm not sure if that's a valid concern. Maybe some sort of wedged dowel would make me feel more comfortable - although that is probably be a massively over-engineered solution for a handle on such a light weight lid. Certainly an idea to consider though, thanks you.
You cut your form on the band saw ? If this be the case you could have glued two pieces of your material together and cut it out on the band saw, no down time or the at least very little. I do like the way your box turned out.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 ,I was refering to using solid wood rather than laminating. From the appearance of your band saw you seem to be able to stack two pieces or use one piece that is tall enough to pass under your band saw guard and produce two pieces .I was thinking of production but if one box is all you wanted to make that is another story?When watching a video sometimes size appears vague? I made my living working with wood and time could make or break me. I generally made several item while I was set up, less down time.I am retired but still have my shop.I can now do as I please while in my shop, no customers to worry about! Your box and presentation were very well done!
@@mattedwards4533 Hi Matt, aha, yes I see what you mean now, and you make a good point about production runs and economical use of time. I very rarely have a single project going so glue up on one project is usually time spend on another - but yes, cutting a number of formers for batching would be wise. In this case as you guessed I was making just the one - and in fact I was prototyping as I went so no time pressure. Thanks for your great feedback.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 By laminating the pieces you maintain the figure in the grain. If you cut the front from a solid piece on the bandsaw, you are creating elongated end grain which would also absorb the finish in a different manner. Beautiful box that gives me several ideas at the same time. Goodbye. I have to go out to my show now.
Hey Bruce, I think that might be a mishearing. I probably said "Housing joint or 'DADO'" - If you were watching the closed caption, it would't the the first time the auto text conversion got confused by my accent! - Housing in the more common term in the UK and Dado gets used more in the USA.
Thank you. There is always a perfect tool for a job, but when you don't have one to hand, improvisation is a useful skill. A pair of compasses would have worked well, but then I'd have missed out on finding yet another user for a lollipop stick ;-)
Move your light from behind you so you won't have to work in your own shadow all the time. It'll be better for you and your work and also for your viewers. Otherwise great work.
Beautiful work, and not a single woodpecker square or thousands of dollars worth of machines in sight.
Thanks, a tight budget can be liberating!
All those traditional hand tools remind me of happy hours with my late father-in-law in his carpentry shop. Thank you for such clarity in your video instructions
Melody R S Berry - MEL’S MUSE Thank you, I’m glad to invoke those happy memories.
Incredible. A real craftsman who knows how to work with hand tools. I learned a lot, thanks.
Thank you, I'm glad you found the video useful.
Fantastic. Great video , techniques and skills.
Thank you.
Just recently came upon your channel. Love your craftmanship and teaching style! Thanks for the hard work!!
Thank you. I know a lot of people prefer rapid, fast moving videos so it's great to her from someone that likes my style.
I finished my box yesterday. I looks great. Thanks for your instruction. And, my fingers have almost healed from using that miniature router for those eight mortises .
Well done, I'm so pleased to hear of your success and I wish your fingers all the best!
Very well done. Great mellow energy, and terrific patience and skill.
Thank you kindly!
This so cool! Downright inspiring. Thank you
Thank you very much. This is one of my favourite projects ever.
I'm so glad I stumbled across your channel tonight, not only to watch you making this excellent box, but to see the use of a plumbing fitting on your chop saw! I was only thinking this afternoon, 'what can I use', and here it is! Thank you and keep up the good work!
Hey Peter, thanks for the comments. I too spent a while working out how to sort out dust extraction from my chop saw, especially as in my small small shop means the extraction post was pretty close to the back wall. I was digging through the back of my shed looking for something else when I came across some plumbing pipe and elbows left over from when I refitted the kitchen and had a brain wave ...
Hi.!
-- Beautiful work.
Thank you.
you elaborated very well, sir … even took into consideration american terms … sharing many tips along the way … explained why a person might not do certain things. thanks for sharing! btw … nice video quality.
Thank you.
I just subscribed because you use the full historic range of woodworking tools and techniques. Then you throw in what appear to be your own tips and tricks that I've never seen before. Add in your engaging video editing (which I happen to teach at college) and you've earned another devotee.
Wow, thanks for your kind comments Jim, I really appreciate it.
This is a great build. Nice to see hand tools being used. I use lollipop sticks for spreading glue also. Very handy things!
Thanks Richard. Lollipop sticks are supremely useful things to have around!
OUTSTANDING WORK. SIMPLY BRILLIANT !!!!!!!! I LOVED IT. THANKS SO SO SO MUCH.!!!!!!!!
Thank you.
Seems like you made that project harder than it needed to be. To each his own.
You'll need to explain that.
Adventures In T-Shirts Woodwork , My guess is he meant that you could have made some of the processes easier, like using a router as an example.
Adventures In T-Shirts Woodwork as Welch pointed out a lot of time could have been saved and the dados would have been easier and more accurate with a router or even a table saw in some cases. Also cutting them at the same time from the same piece of wood, then cut that down to your side pieces.
You can do your flush edging with a straight bit and roller guide etc. I’m a big fan of routers and power tools in general. But if you prefer digging them out by hand that’s fine too.
No disrespect intended, just an observation.
@@makemyday1477 Hey, aha yes I see what you mean, no offence taken. I've nothing against power tools and machines, it's just that I tend to mostly post hand tool projects on this channel as that's sort of become the theme. I use my power tools routers, tables saws, etc much more on commercial jobs, but this was very much a hobby project - the band saw got a lot of action in this build as it was new to my home shop so was having a play with it. I don't mind admitting that the European beach I was using was particularly hard and cutting the dados by hand wasn't the most fun! But these projects are more about the doing than the getting done.
Fantastic Hello from Sherwood Park Canada
Thank you
Amazing use of *Craftsmanship* Nice work !
Thank you.
Very good techniques I learned here.
Glad it was helpful!
Great instructional video with some good construction tips!
Enjoyed seeing the use of hand tools with low dependency on machinery.
Some old world charm evident in the approach and pleasing box design.
Thanks for the thoughtful commentary and careful edits!
Thank you Brian.
Adventures In T-Shirts Woodwo
Beautiful design
Thank you.
Very nice little box, really enjoyed watching you make it with clear instructions well done.
Thank you Ken.
Very nice work !
Thank you.
Wow!!! A truely GREAT Creation.
I enjoyed the entire build.
Thank you for sharing it.
Thank you Murray.
great looking box loved watching how you made it well done
Thank you.
Hey!
A lovely box. Unique wood grain arrangement! Good job!
Recently, I made a wooden box for my wife on my channel.
Greetings from Poland!
Thank you
Nice design: loved the elegant curve to the front. Some helpful building techniques in there as well. And yes, I agree, the contrasting woods look great after adding the finish. Thanks for sharing. Best wishes
Thank you Mark. Yes, the wood gets dull while working it, not least because of the amount off sanding dust so it's always a pleasant surprise when that finish goes on and the colours and textures make their presence known.
I look forward to seeing more of your woodworking projects and hopefully picking up some more building tips and tricks. Have a good day. Best wishes
Excellent, I've got quite a few projects coming up over the next few months.
Very nice work. Enjoyed the video and picked up some tips how to make curved pieces and mark them. Thanks!
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found the it useful.
excellent presentations with clarity and patience. Could I ask for details of the Band saw and drill press , they look just tight for me.
The band saw is Axminster's 250N it's the slightly bigger second size up, and is a great hobby choice - it's just a bit bigger than the standard entry level saws common to most manufacturers so it has a little more cutting depth. The drill press is just a cheap 5 speed belt driven affair. I think is an Ebauer, but I think like a lot of bottom end kit, there are probable versions with many badges on.
What a nice looking box. The curved front makes it look very elegant in a simple, clean way. Wonderful build. I always learn a small tip or two from watching your videos. The ones from this video: Popsicle sticks as spacers and the trace with a washer trick. Thank you.
Thank you Bruce. I'll maybe make a video on all the things I've found popsicle sticks useful for some time.
Very nice. A very thorough video! thankyou
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
This was nice and fresh!
Thank you.
That is a realy realy nice and cool Box
Respect!!!!
Very cool Video
Thx a lot!!! ^^
Thank you.
Nice work sir.
Thank you.
Lots of fun watching this but to finish it I would give the box some tiny little riser legs. -Like a washer kind of thing- it would make it perfect.
Nice idea.
Terrific build.
Thanks for a very enjoyable “Watch” with a morning cup of coffee.
Thank you, nice to be a part of your morning.
Uma obra de arte, parabéns. É uma pena que as madeiras bonitas do Brasil estão sendo extintas.
Yes, it is a shame that woodland is not being correctly managed and protected,
Ustamız,tek kelime ile harika bir işçilik çıkarmıştır Kendisini tebrik ediyorum.Bir işin üzerinde duyu organlarının uyumunu da izlemiş olduk.İnanın defalarca izledim.
Thank you
I can see where you would us the bottom portion of the box to trace the pattern out instead of using the top as a pattern. There is always the bottom pattern will not be exactly the same as the top specifications, as there is such a close tolerance edging showing and would not match the top exposed edges showing. Was a great idea and enjoyed the performance and learned much from it.
Thanks Leo
Great work love the use of hand tools where possible one thing intrigued me though before glueing your top on why didn't you use it as a template to make your lid beautiful box great contrast with different woods
Hi Allan, thanks for you comments. I can't remember why I didn't use the top as a template, it's possible it just didn't occur to me. I do remember that my main concern was ensuring the visible part of the lid has a uniform inset so as such, once I had the inner part cut to size and fitted to the top I may have felt more comfortable gaining this accuracy by fitting the lid on the job. My tendency is usually to fit on the job rather than pre measure or mark out, but your suggestion regarding templating is just as valid, maybe even a better approach. Thanks for the feedback.
Well, I tried this front with sapele with a form similar to yours, the sapele fractured (split out on the outside of the curve) before I got the form half way closed, and that was way difficult. I had 4 1/8 inches pieces of sapele. The book I am reading on wood bending says sapele is not a good bending wood (look great, though). Says the grain is too close. It recommends white oak, European Ash, Dutch Elm (is there any of this still living?), yellow birch (American), Sycamore, and European Walnut. I have some white oak on hand, will try that over the next few days. I always use Titebond 2 (a PVA glue), I wonder if a glue with a longer open time (Titebond 3) would help.
Hi Paul, I'm sorry you had some issues with bending the sapele. I've not had the issues you describe - maybe I have been lucky. I have always had the grain running across the bend, I don't know if that help or hindered to be honest. I made the laminate pieces very thin, and the curves on the former were fairly gentle. It also helps to allow the glue to soak in as this does make the wood more pliable - a glue with a longer open time would certainly help there. Do let me know how you get on with your white oak.
Today I approached this again:
1: made my thin pieces out of white oak;
2: made pieces thinner, about 2 mm thick (about 1/16 inch);
3: used only three slats instead of 4, total width less than 1/4 inch;
4: used Titebond 3 instead of my usual Titebond 2 (3 has a longer open time and is thinner);
5: I made a new form with a less severe curve (about inch instead of 1.5 inch);
I was still difficult to close the vice, I added 2 heavy F clamps and 2 heavy C clamps. I finally got it closed, it doesn't look like it split. I'll leave it overnight and report tomorrow. I wonder if I'll get any spring back.
Yes, the front looks like it came out fine. I made the back and tomorrow, its on to the sides. Thanks for your video. Really well done. This is my first foray into bending, I had been looking out for something as my first bending project, this was a perfect fit.
@@paul6096 Excellent, it's great to hear things are turning out well.
Beautiful!
Thank you.
Lovely old-school craftsmanship! Long time since I saw someone use a hand drill! Just one question.... when you were cutting the former from construction timber for the bowed front, did you have any problems with the blade on your bandsaw 'wandering' from your chosen path? Enjoyed every minute of your presentation. You clearly have a passion for quality!
Hi David, thanks for the comments. I don't recall having any problems keeping the blade on path. Of course I'm probably not quite as concerened with absolute precision on the former as I would be cutting an actual component as I know that the laminate pieces will have their own resistance as so any lumps or bumps on the curves will get smothered out a little when gluing up. Having said that I do try and cut as accurately as possible. I spent quite some time setting up my band saw properly when I first got it, and I regularly check things are still set correctly. I also make sure the blade is tensioned correctly and always have a decent blade loaded.
I really enjoyed this video. I was wondering how you addressed the starting cut that you made with the bandsaw for the top base? Did you cut a small piece of material and fill in?
Hi, I believe a made some filler by mixing some sawdust from the piece with a little wood glue.
great build
Thank you.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 hi
Hi
thank you you share it with me i enjoy the demonstrate ..
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Great video and woodwork. Can I suggest that you put your lighting in front of you and on the work, the light behind you just creates a shadow right where you want the most light for the camera to pick up what you are doing.
Hi Taryn. Thanks for your feedback. Yes. you are right, this was one of my earlier videos and I hand't properly got to grips with the lighting. In later projects hopefully you'll see a vast improvement as I added a load of extra lighting around the workshop - it's still not perfect but I'll keep making improvements.
Thanks 😊 I will have a look at them
Nicely done! By chance do you offer a plan for this box?
Thank you. I'm afraid I don't have any plans to share, they are all in my head. The dimensions are completely down to the material I had available. The width of the beach dictated the maximum width the collar and base could be I work back from there to decide on the with of the ends of the box. The heigh was down to the width of the sapele board I was working with.
Very nice
Thank you.
nice video, well explained
Thanks Dylan.
Good job, I like your video! Keep on doing all the good woodworking :)
Thank you for your comment. I shall indeed keep working that wood.
very nice , use wood dowels next time for mounting the handle no screws this way just a thought.
Hi, thanks for the comment. It's a good idea, usually I try avoid using any hardware, preferring joinery to secure everything. I'm not sure why I choose screws in this instance to be honest, although my engineering impulse would be to avoid using dowels in the same alignment as the pulling force for fear of them pulling out - I'm not sure if that's a valid concern. Maybe some sort of wedged dowel would make me feel more comfortable - although that is probably be a massively over-engineered solution for a handle on such a light weight lid. Certainly an idea to consider though, thanks you.
hi, what thickness blade was you using? great video. new sub.
on the bandsaw,ty.
Hi Robert, I believe it was a 1/2 inch blade at around 12 TPI - that's a bit fine for ripping, but worked well for making the thin laminates.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 appreciate the reply,ty
You cut your form on the band saw ? If this be the case you could have glued two pieces of your material together and cut it out on the band saw, no down time or the at least very little.
I do like the way your box turned out.
HI Matt, I;m intrigued but don't quite understand your idea, could you elaborate?
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 ,I was refering to using solid wood rather than laminating. From the appearance of your band saw you seem to be able to stack two pieces or use one piece that is tall enough to pass under your band saw guard and produce two pieces .I was thinking of production but if one box is all you wanted to make that is another story?When watching a video sometimes size appears vague?
I made my living working with wood and time could make or break me. I generally made several item while I was set up, less down time.I am retired but still have my shop.I can now do as I please while in my shop, no customers to worry about! Your box and presentation were very well done!
@@mattedwards4533 Hi Matt, aha, yes I see what you mean now, and you make a good point about production runs and economical use of time. I very rarely have a single project going so glue up on one project is usually time spend on another - but yes, cutting a number of formers for batching would be wise. In this case as you guessed I was making just the one - and in fact I was prototyping as I went so no time pressure.
Thanks for your great feedback.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 By laminating the pieces you maintain the figure in the grain. If you cut the front from a solid piece on the bandsaw, you are creating elongated end grain which would also absorb the finish in a different manner. Beautiful box that gives me several ideas at the same time. Goodbye. I have to go out to my show now.
👍
Thank you.
Very nice but a little tight getting your hand in. I would have made it a bit deeper
Thank you. The dimensions were pretty much dictated by the size of the stock I was working with.
Beautiful Box My Friend! Just Subbed You👍
Thank you - more vids coming soon - its been a while!
respect your work.. was wondering why you guys call this joint HOUSEING JOINT OR BLADE?
Hey Bruce, I think that might be a mishearing. I probably said "Housing joint or 'DADO'" - If you were watching the closed caption, it would't the the first time the auto text conversion got confused by my accent! - Housing in the more common term in the UK and Dado gets used more in the USA.
Cadburys Roses.. Mmmm.. 😂
Nice vid man... liked & subbed.. 👌😎☘️
Thanks Peter.
bela peça
Muito obrigado
What happened to the box? Did you sell it or gift it to a relative?
If I remember correctly that one sold at a craft fair.
loved your instruction throughout - you might invest in some lighting as it was hard to see exactly what was going on at several points in the video.
Thanks John, and yes the lighting is not the best in this video. I shot it over a year ago and I have a much better lighting set up now.
Nice 👍 but using a compass to scribe would of been easier than drilling your stick
Thank you. There is always a perfect tool for a job, but when you don't have one to hand, improvisation is a useful skill. A pair of compasses would have worked well, but then I'd have missed out on finding yet another user for a lollipop stick ;-)
You cut the ends of the curved front using the mitre saw then why did you not use the mitre saw to cut the back piece that was a no brainer?
There was possibly something leaning against it and would have taken longer to move it then do it by hand.
well mate looks like you need a wood stove in your workshop then you could drop that coat maybe
Not sure I have the room!!
Good
Thanks
music at the beginning about blew out my eardrums
Ooops!
Move your light from behind you so you won't have to work in your own shadow all the time. It'll be better for you and your work and also for your viewers.
Otherwise great work.
Yes, I've improved my lighting set up so it's now much better. The shadow looks a lot worse on camera than it is in real life.
Очень долго.
Time is relative!
To many shadows couldn't watch this video.
I have better lights now, but not much I can do in retrospect.