A locking carabiner rated for 20kN or more is clearly strong enough for top-roping, it's just the convention among all the climbers I know, and in all the climbing literature, to use at least two carabiners at the master point. The main reason is that it's an easy way to add redundancy at a key point in your safety system. Carabiners do sometimes rub against the rock in such a way that they unlock and open themselves. A nice added benefit to using multiple carabiners is that it reduces the angle at which the rope bends through the master point, making it easier for the belayer to pull the rope through the anchor. Do you know other climbers who top-rope off of a single locker? Where did they learn this? Is this a common practice where you climb? I'm honestly curious. I see people doing this every once in a while, usually folks who are self-taught and just aren't aware of the standard practice. It's not so dangerous that I feel the need to correct people, unless we are chatting anyway and they seem receptive to my input. Once I saw some Boy Scout dads setting top-rope anchors using thin aluminum rappel rings in the master points, which was so scary I actually said something. What you're suggesting isn't necessarily scary, just unconventional. A single locker is probably good enough-but it's a bit safer to use two, and it only takes an extra second, so I recommend it. Thanks for the question, and have fun out there!
@@videoracles awesome feedback, thanks. I usually go for 2 opposite quickdraws or a locking carabiner and a quickdraw. If I have the chance of being redundant I will but what I meant with the question is that if I haven't enough gear to set one of the options above, I've just go for a locking carabiner and I won't be worry about, I've always thought it was safe enough. Most of the people I've seen setting a top rope use the 2 opposite quickdraws or they just go trough the ring of the chains.
Hey! Love your videos! One quick question about the alpine draw. If you clip one of the strands to lengthen the quick draw you can end up with it not attached to one of the carabiners correct?
Roddy's reply: Hi Conrad, No, if done right the sling will remain attached. Sometimes you end up with a girth-hitch around one carabiner, which is annoying. Best, Roddy
In your video, you unclipped it from one stand, which is wrong. Instead, remove the carabiner completely then clip it to only one of the 3 strands. Always test it!
Ya'll rock. Love the videos. Will be down in J Tree sometime in the future and looking for guides. Do you offer that as a service? Would be grateful to pay it back ($$) from the help I was able to get from the channel. Cheers.
best knot presentation ive ever seen on video.
Couldn’t agree more
The most simple and easy to follow tutorial !!!
Thanks for this very logical layout, having the timecodes at the beginning was very thoughtful.
my first time to see the Bunny Ears at 3:10. Very nice! Thank you!
Really well done!
bhk 4:03 great knot. I'll include it in my knots list.
Great instructions, thank you!
Thank you 👍
Why just locking carabiner is not enough safe for a top rope?
A locking carabiner rated for 20kN or more is clearly strong enough for top-roping, it's just the convention among all the climbers I know, and in all the climbing literature, to use at least two carabiners at the master point. The main reason is that it's an easy way to add redundancy at a key point in your safety system. Carabiners do sometimes rub against the rock in such a way that they unlock and open themselves. A nice added benefit to using multiple carabiners is that it reduces the angle at which the rope bends through the master point, making it easier for the belayer to pull the rope through the anchor. Do you know other climbers who top-rope off of a single locker? Where did they learn this? Is this a common practice where you climb? I'm honestly curious. I see people doing this every once in a while, usually folks who are self-taught and just aren't aware of the standard practice. It's not so dangerous that I feel the need to correct people, unless we are chatting anyway and they seem receptive to my input. Once I saw some Boy Scout dads setting top-rope anchors using thin aluminum rappel rings in the master points, which was so scary I actually said something. What you're suggesting isn't necessarily scary, just unconventional. A single locker is probably good enough-but it's a bit safer to use two, and it only takes an extra second, so I recommend it. Thanks for the question, and have fun out there!
@@videoracles awesome feedback, thanks. I usually go for 2 opposite quickdraws or a locking carabiner and a quickdraw. If I have the chance of being redundant I will but what I meant with the question is that if I haven't enough gear to set one of the options above, I've just go for a locking carabiner and I won't be worry about, I've always thought it was safe enough. Most of the people I've seen setting a top rope use the 2 opposite quickdraws or they just go trough the ring of the chains.
Hey! Love your videos! One quick question about the alpine draw. If you clip one of the strands to lengthen the quick draw you can end up with it not attached to one of the carabiners correct?
Roddy's reply:
Hi Conrad,
No, if done right the sling will remain attached. Sometimes you end up with a girth-hitch around one carabiner, which is annoying.
Best,
Roddy
@@videoracles I sent a video on Instagram. Interested in your input
In your video, you unclipped it from one stand, which is wrong. Instead, remove the carabiner completely then clip it to only one of the 3 strands. Always test it!
Ya'll rock. Love the videos. Will be down in J Tree sometime in the future and looking for guides. Do you offer that as a service? Would be grateful to pay it back ($$) from the help I was able to get from the channel. Cheers.
Thank you! Yes Roddy guides in Joshua Tree. You should definitely reach out to him. More info on his website: climbwithroddy.com/
@@videoracles Awesome! Cheers
You can actually tie in to the belay loop, depending on the manufacturer.