Thanks for posting this video. You are a great teacher from start to finish! And I know because I’m a teacher you were so detailed from disassembling to reassembling. I have a st227p and it was the same set up. Thanks again you’re a life saver.
Thanks for the video. I just followed your instructions and got my snowblower running. I bought it used a couple years ago and it never did run right. The pilot jet was completely plugged now it starts on the first pull. Don’t even have to use electric start and it will idle down to nothing and stay running. The float bowl O-ring had disintegrated. I found one at Ace Hardware. If anyone needs one, it’s a number 88 at Ace Hardware…Also the smallest wire on a torch tip cleaning set worked to clean the pilot jet. I used the Gum Out cleaner on everything else…
I have the identical snowblower with the same symptoms. I followed your instructions to a tee. From draining the gas, replacing the spark plug, changing the oil with 16 oz of 5/30 synthetic oil , pulled & cleaning the carb. Started with the first attempt. Thanks for your detailed instructions.
@@IndRepair Thanks very much. Still runs for one minute then backfires and stalls. It may be a spark problem. I'll look for a video on that. Thanks again.
Thank you, have the same model snow blower, in NY on Canadian border just got slammed with a snow storm and as I was finishing up with several driveways I ran out of gas. I filled tank and started backfiring and losing power going through snow. It seemed to idol fine but put a little strain on the engine and it would start to stall or stop completely. Your site has been the most informative and easily understood.
Outstanding Video, did a great job!! My issue is not being able to idle down with the Gray knob. It won't stay it keeps springing to Full Throttle. Won't stay where I put it.
Sir this video saved my butt today so thank you! Single digit weather and I had just enough kerosene in my safe heater that it ran out when I put it back together
I was able to drain old gas from bolt at bottom. Confirmed the fuel valve worked fine by watching fuel run out of hole when on and stopped when I turned valve. filled with new fuel. pulled out spark plug and sprayed ether in the hole, replaced plug and started. it died after a few seconds. did this 2 more times and it runs fine now. Drilled a decent sized hole in metal shroud over carb right between the 2 bolts that hold the carb on (the butterfly valve was clearly shown right between these 2). Covered hole with black gorilla tape. Now I anticipate if I have problems in the future I can remove tape and spray ether right into the carb air intake. I also turned off fuel and ran the snowblower until it quit (so no fuel in carb or lines). I'm guessing it will take some cranking next time I start to get it going but electric start will make that pretty easy. and if not, the ether hole should help prime it so I can deal with the non-starting issue pretty easily
I followed this guide step by step. Had old gas in the bow it was green. Been there for 2 years buy the last owner. My issue now is everything is clean and reassembled. However it seems like no Gass is making it into the piston. I have spark, I feel compression on the muffle but no bang. And idea?
Is there fuel in the carburetor? Check bottom 45 degree bolt if there is gas in the carb the main jet is likely still clogged. If no gad float could be stuck
@IndRepair yeah I have gas in the carb. I took it apart twice and used carb cleaner everywhere. I'll try again tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll take it to my local shop
@IndRepair yes I didn't have carb cleaner I used brake cleaner on the brass bits and used new gas to clean the parts I wasn't sure where going to react well to brake cleaner.
We have a guy that comes and gets it to re-refine essentially and runs it in his vehicles. Gas mixed with oil or bad stuff goes to Safety-Kleen for recycle
Great detailed video - thanks. Replaced the carburetor - started right away and runs great ..... however it will not shut off now with either the kill switch or the Run/Stop button. It appears I may have broken the single wire off (ground?). Hoping you can help with where this wire can be reconnected. Just using the fuel shut off valve at the moment - works but not ideal. Help!!
You will have a wire coming from the coil going to the switch and then going to ground. The switch connection closes and lets the wire going to the coil ground out. Hope this helps!
I really appreciate the video. Started to tear mine down but it’s a different model, ST 224P. Once I get the choke control off and the two 10mm long nuts on the side of the carb, the cover over the carb looks completely different than this. The cover on mine is a long solid piece that runs under the gas tank. Any idea how to get it off?
Great video...just what I needed...thanks! Mine didn't have a gasket on the carb mount...where do you get your replacements? Also, I nicked the float bowl gasket a little bit when I tried to dig it out of its channel...do you know where I can get a replacement? I went ahead and ordered a replacement carb (surprised how cheap the are) but I want to have this one on hand as a spare. Thanks, Rich
MTD sells a replacement gasket that fits but we normally do not replace the gasket alone as it is 2/3 the price of a new one. I updated the description so there is a part number for the gasket between the carburetor and plastic insulator
Thanks! After I posted this I saw that I missed where you gave the Honda part number for the intake gasket in the video but thanks for posting it in the description. Mine did have a gasket...I just didn't see it at first. My replacement carb had a replacement. Plus I 3d printed a template so I can make my own in the future if need be. I bought some 2mm square nitrile cord from McMaster Carr to make my own float bowl gasket but have not tried it yet. One of the o-rings on the pilot jet was marfed up so I ordered o-rings to replace that (1.2mm thick, 5mm inside diameter). It goes on well but wasn't able to push it into the opening on the carb. Then I found out that the other o-ring on the pilot jet is a different diameter (1mm smaller). I'd really like to get the original carb rebuilt so if this happens again I can just swap it out easily and rebuild the other one at my leisure, but may not be able to. Thanks for your help!
I finally had a chance to test my new carb...3 times in the last 2 days. Yesterday there was a total of 12" - 15" of wet heavy snow. The snowblower started immediately and made easy work of the snow. I'm quite thankful that I found this thread and got it taken care of before the snow hit. Rich
Thanks for the video!!! The manual says 32oz of oil. Everyone else says 16oz and that 32 is way to much because the dipstick crosshatching is half-way up from where the 32oz mark is. I put in the 32, since that is what the manual calls for. Is that o.k.?
Thanks for the video! I had surging issues so I cleaned the carb out like you did in the video and after reinstalling everything I can't get it to start and the gasket going from the carb to the engine is soaked and dripping with gas. Is it not sealing correctly or is it overflowing gas out?
I would make sure the crankcase has not flooded fuel to mix into the oil. If the gasket it leaking there is an issue somewhere, the gasket it not the cause, just the symptom. It sounds like a carburetor needle/seat sticking to me, this would be the most common cause
I do not, it is just two 10mm bolts holding the starter itself and the two Phillips head screws holding on the plug block. The starter then pulls straight out away from the block
Do you know where I can pick up a new carb for my Husqvarna ST 124? I did everything from plug, oil, new gas, cleaned entire carb and still surges and bogs. I have carb numbers from mine just don't know how to read it for a replacement
Just need the number from the engine itself and they can be retrieved online in many different places. Were the gaskets between the carburetor and engine replaced? An air leak here is your most likely cause of this issue if it is fully clean. The plastic insulator could also be cracked or warped there. Did you clean the pilot jet under the low idle stop screw also?
Pilot jet, well since I don't know what that is then probably not. I did float bowl imulsion jets and the float. Float has nothing in it. Literally it all looked brand new but I cleaned it anyways. No I didn't replace any gaskets.
Well glad I found your video . I’m taking my 224 to the small engine repair shop down the street lol Regardless I had to like and subscribe considering how well you made this video
@@IndRepair update , actually I ended up taking it apart . Was surprised to see gunk in the bowl , as I only use 104 non ethanol fuel . Jet looks good but haven’t pulled the float out yet . I need a new tube that goes to the primer as it’s cracked . Doubt they stock it where I bought the snow blower but will try this afternoon;
@@IndRepair yes I put the carb back in and all is well . The strange part is I didn’t find anything wrong except the primer hose was cracked on both ends . But I think the clamps were up high enough on the ends of that hose that I don’t think it would be an issue , and I did try starting with the electric starter first quite some time . But it just started up immediately after reassembly. There was a little bit of sediment in the bottom of the carbs bowl , but nothing major . Strange if you ask me. Thank you for sharing this video though , as it helped immensely
I’m ready to throw mine off a cliff! Picked up as a non runner 3 weeks ago. One of the carb studs was broken in the head. Got that drilled out and replaced. Cleaned the carb, both jets and emulsion tube. Nothing was real dirty to start with. Put together and terrible surging. Pull it off and drill out the low speed jet with a micro drop to just slightly bigger. No change. Drill out again slightly bigger. Nope. Still surging. So, replace the whole carb. Nothing. I’m in Wisconsin so altitude is not an issue. I even doubled up the gaskets behind the carb incase of an air leak problem.! I’m ready to quit and find a new career! Any suggestions? Anyone? (You channel is one of the best by the way!)
I would check the replacement carb if you didn't inspect inside as they have metal shavings or other debris in them many times. The main jet also usually doesn't come quite big enough, needs to be slightly bigger normally for optimal fuel air ratio. If those aren't the problem that leaves an air leak at the plastic insulator between the carb and engine. I see them hairline crack or warp to not be flat causing this nightmare issue. Spray some carb cleaner while it's running on either side of the insulator plastic and see if you get it to change. If it does you know this is the issue. Do this while it's not hot and be careful so you don't start a fire. Be prepared for that possibility either way. Thanks for watching! Hope you get it figured out!!
@@IndRepair so I pulled off the plastic spacer and checked it on a true flat surface and found it to be slightly warped. Sanded it down with sandpaper on a true flat surface and bingo. I knew that an air leak could cause chaos but dang! Have a great day. One of my favorite channels.👍
Bought this machine used about dozen times in 4 years and this year cheap plastic console holds shift cable broke only goes in reverse, to fix have to replace entire console, don’t buy this machine!!!
I have replaced a few of the plastic console assemblies and they have always been worth replacing. Is this one really expensive or on backorder / no longer available?
Awesome instructor, very helpful video! I was able to successfully restart my snowblower thanks to your explanations. 😁
So glad to help! Thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting this video. You are a great teacher from start to finish! And I know because I’m a teacher you were so detailed from disassembling to reassembling. I have a st227p and it was the same set up. Thanks again you’re a life saver.
I appreciate that! I am glad to be able to help. Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thanks for the video. I just followed your instructions and got my snowblower running. I bought it used a couple years ago and it never did run right. The pilot jet was completely plugged now it starts on the first pull. Don’t even have to use electric start and it will idle down to nothing and stay running. The float bowl O-ring had disintegrated. I found one at Ace Hardware. If anyone needs one, it’s a number 88 at Ace Hardware…Also the smallest wire on a torch tip cleaning set worked to clean the pilot jet. I used the Gum Out cleaner on everything else…
Great news and information thanks for sharing and for watching!
I have the identical snowblower with the same symptoms. I followed your instructions to a tee. From draining the gas, replacing the spark plug, changing the oil with 16 oz of 5/30 synthetic oil , pulled & cleaning the carb. Started with the first attempt. Thanks for your detailed instructions.
Awesome! Great job! Glad you got it going!
Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair Can you do a video on summarizing your snowblower for storage? Thanks
Wonderful! Thank you so much. I never would have been able to fix my Husky without this video. God bless you for this!
I am so glad to have helped!!
@@IndRepair Thanks very much. Still runs for one minute then backfires and stalls. It may be a spark problem. I'll look for a video on that. Thanks again.
Sounds like it could be a fuel restriction, were you able to figure it out?
Thanks! Got mine to stop surging and run properly with your help! Took more than 30 minutes but I got through it.
Awesome job! Thanks for watching!
Thank you, have the same model snow blower, in NY on Canadian border just got slammed with a snow storm and as I was finishing up with several driveways I ran out of gas. I filled tank and started backfiring and losing power going through snow. It seemed to idol fine but put a little strain on the engine and it would start to stall or stop completely. Your site has been the most informative and easily understood.
Awesome! Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks! You did an amazing job of explaining everything. I was able to repair the machine thanks to your detailed video
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!!
Excellent video! That pilot jet was what got me,now it runs like new.thanks man!
So glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Great job... Ive been fighting with idle issues for three years and it was the pilot jet. Also you helped me with remembering how to reassemble...
Doesn't seem like that jet could even fix an issue like this does it? Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Great video and it worked !
I appreciate that! Glad to help! Great job!
Outstanding Video, did a great job!! My issue is not being able to idle down with the Gray knob. It won't stay it keeps springing to Full Throttle. Won't stay where I put it.
Tighten the 10mm nut where the arm pivots slightly until it moves freely but stays in place
Sir this video saved my butt today so thank you! Single digit weather and I had just enough kerosene in my safe heater that it ran out when I put it back together
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Just purchased a used one. Plugged in starts easy but pulling will not start right away, much hassle. I start with electric plugin.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Great quality, easy no bs instruction. Fantastic video! Thank you
Thanks for watching and for your words of encouragement!!
I was able to drain old gas from bolt at bottom. Confirmed the fuel valve worked fine by watching fuel run out of hole when on and stopped when I turned valve. filled with new fuel. pulled out spark plug and sprayed ether in the hole, replaced plug and started. it died after a few seconds. did this 2 more times and it runs fine now. Drilled a decent sized hole in metal shroud over carb right between the 2 bolts that hold the carb on (the butterfly valve was clearly shown right between these 2). Covered hole with black gorilla tape. Now I anticipate if I have problems in the future I can remove tape and spray ether right into the carb air intake. I also turned off fuel and ran the snowblower until it quit (so no fuel in carb or lines). I'm guessing it will take some cranking next time I start to get it going but electric start will make that pretty easy. and if not, the ether hole should help prime it so I can deal with the non-starting issue pretty easily
Nice job!
Would love to see a video on replacing both the drive and auger drive belts on the Husqvarna Snowblower. Thanks.
Next one I get to do both on I will get one done. Thanks for watching!
i have a husqvarna st230p. this is good infomation
Comes in handy sometimes for sure! Thanks for watching Francis!
Really great video my friend. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Love to help! Thanks for watching!
I followed this guide step by step. Had old gas in the bow it was green. Been there for 2 years buy the last owner.
My issue now is everything is clean and reassembled. However it seems like no Gass is making it into the piston.
I have spark, I feel compression on the muffle but no bang. And idea?
Is there fuel in the carburetor? Check bottom 45 degree bolt if there is gas in the carb the main jet is likely still clogged. If no gad float could be stuck
@IndRepair yeah I have gas in the carb. I took it apart twice and used carb cleaner everywhere. I'll try again tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll take it to my local shop
The main jet was removed and completely clear along with emulsion tube as shown also?
@IndRepair yes I didn't have carb cleaner I used brake cleaner on the brass bits and used new gas to clean the parts I wasn't sure where going to react well to brake cleaner.
@IrishSaint214 hmm
What do you do with the gas after draining the tank?
We have a guy that comes and gets it to re-refine essentially and runs it in his vehicles. Gas mixed with oil or bad stuff goes to Safety-Kleen for recycle
Great detailed video - thanks. Replaced the carburetor - started right away and runs great ..... however it will not shut off now with either the kill switch or the Run/Stop button. It appears I may have broken the single wire off (ground?). Hoping you can help with where this wire can be reconnected. Just using the fuel shut off valve at the moment - works but not ideal. Help!!
You will have a wire coming from the coil going to the switch and then going to ground. The switch connection closes and lets the wire going to the coil ground out. Hope this helps!
@@IndRepair Yep - just needed to get the broken wire to ground - snowblower has never run better. Thanks - great video and follow up support. Best.
@@petemechie4712 Awesome! Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate the video. Started to tear mine down but it’s a different model, ST 224P. Once I get the choke control off and the two 10mm long nuts on the side of the carb, the cover over the carb looks completely different than this. The cover on mine is a long solid piece that runs under the gas tank. Any idea how to get it off?
Information from the side of the engine will tell me which video I need to link you to. Will be stamped into the side or on a tag
Great video...just what I needed...thanks! Mine didn't have a gasket on the carb mount...where do you get your replacements? Also, I nicked the float bowl gasket a little bit when I tried to dig it out of its channel...do you know where I can get a replacement? I went ahead and ordered a replacement carb (surprised how cheap the are) but I want to have this one on hand as a spare.
Thanks, Rich
MTD sells a replacement gasket that fits but we normally do not replace the gasket alone as it is 2/3 the price of a new one. I updated the description so there is a part number for the gasket between the carburetor and plastic insulator
Thanks! After I posted this I saw that I missed where you gave the Honda part number for the intake gasket in the video but thanks for posting it in the description. Mine did have a gasket...I just didn't see it at first. My replacement carb had a replacement. Plus I 3d printed a template so I can make my own in the future if need be. I bought some 2mm square nitrile cord from McMaster Carr to make my own float bowl gasket but have not tried it yet. One of the o-rings on the pilot jet was marfed up so I ordered o-rings to replace that (1.2mm thick, 5mm inside diameter). It goes on well but wasn't able to push it into the opening on the carb. Then I found out that the other o-ring on the pilot jet is a different diameter (1mm smaller). I'd really like to get the original carb rebuilt so if this happens again I can just swap it out easily and rebuild the other one at my leisure, but may not be able to. Thanks for your help!
Awesome!
I finally had a chance to test my new carb...3 times in the last 2 days. Yesterday there was a total of 12" - 15" of wet heavy snow. The snowblower started immediately and made easy work of the snow. I'm quite thankful that I found this thread and got it taken care of before the snow hit.
Rich
Great job!
Is there an easy way to just drain the old fuel out of my Husqvarna ST224 snowblower for after the season is over? Thanks in advance.
The 10mm bolt that comes down the furthest at the bottom of the carburetor will drain the entire system
@@IndRepair Or turn off fuel knob and run it for a few minutes
Still will have 1/2" plus in the bowl
Thanks for the video!!! The manual says 32oz of oil. Everyone else says 16oz and that 32 is way to much because the dipstick crosshatching is half-way up from where the 32oz mark is. I put in the 32, since that is what the manual calls for. Is that o.k.?
Way too much at 32oz...usually aprox 18-20 oz. Go by the dipstick for sure
@@IndRepair O.K. thanks. I wonder why they said 32 oz, and I called them to be sure, and they said yes, 32. Glad I asked again. Thank you.
Yeah sometimes they have no clue just reading from the same wrong manual...that is crazy though!
Thanks for the video! I had surging issues so I cleaned the carb out like you did in the video and after reinstalling everything I can't get it to start and the gasket going from the carb to the engine is soaked and dripping with gas. Is it not sealing correctly or is it overflowing gas out?
I would make sure the crankcase has not flooded fuel to mix into the oil. If the gasket it leaking there is an issue somewhere, the gasket it not the cause, just the symptom. It sounds like a carburetor needle/seat sticking to me, this would be the most common cause
have you any videos on how to remove the starter on a husqvarna st230p?
I do not, it is just two 10mm bolts holding the starter itself and the two Phillips head screws holding on the plug block. The starter then pulls straight out away from the block
@@IndRepair thanks
Do you know where I can pick up a new carb for my Husqvarna ST 124? I did everything from plug, oil, new gas, cleaned entire carb and still surges and bogs. I have carb numbers from mine just don't know how to read it for a replacement
Just need the number from the engine itself and they can be retrieved online in many different places. Were the gaskets between the carburetor and engine replaced? An air leak here is your most likely cause of this issue if it is fully clean. The plastic insulator could also be cracked or warped there. Did you clean the pilot jet under the low idle stop screw also?
Pilot jet, well since I don't know what that is then probably not. I did float bowl imulsion jets and the float. Float has nothing in it. Literally it all looked brand new but I cleaned it anyways. No I didn't replace any gaskets.
Wait yes I did clean that..black plastic piece below the set screw fo idle, correct.
Do you think I just need a carb kit vs a carb? Replace the gaskets and rings? I just checked and there is no cracks in that.
Well glad I found your video . I’m taking my 224 to the small engine repair shop down the street lol
Regardless I had to like and subscribe considering how well you made this video
Haha!! I know that feeling for sure! Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair update , actually I ended up taking it apart . Was surprised to see gunk in the bowl , as I only use 104 non ethanol fuel . Jet looks good but haven’t pulled the float out yet . I need a new tube that goes to the primer as it’s cracked . Doubt they stock it where I bought the snow blower but will try this afternoon;
Were you able to get it all finished up?
@@IndRepair yes I put the carb back in and all is well . The strange part is I didn’t find anything wrong except the primer hose was cracked on both ends . But I think the clamps were up high enough on the ends of that hose that I don’t think it would be an issue , and I did try starting with the electric starter first quite some time .
But it just started up immediately after reassembly. There was a little bit of sediment in the bottom of the carbs bowl , but nothing major . Strange if you ask me.
Thank you for sharing this video though , as it helped immensely
@@MajorTendonitis Awesome! Glad to help!
Thanks
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
You sounf Like Tom Hanks
Haha thanks I think lol
I’m ready to throw mine off a cliff! Picked up as a non runner 3 weeks ago. One of the carb studs was broken in the head. Got that drilled out and replaced. Cleaned the carb, both jets and emulsion tube. Nothing was real dirty to start with. Put together and terrible surging.
Pull it off and drill out the low speed jet with a micro drop to just slightly bigger. No change. Drill out again slightly bigger. Nope. Still surging.
So, replace the whole carb. Nothing. I’m in Wisconsin so altitude is not an issue. I even doubled up the gaskets behind the carb incase of an air leak problem.! I’m ready to quit and find a new career! Any suggestions? Anyone?
(You channel is one of the best by the way!)
I would check the replacement carb if you didn't inspect inside as they have metal shavings or other debris in them many times. The main jet also usually doesn't come quite big enough, needs to be slightly bigger normally for optimal fuel air ratio. If those aren't the problem that leaves an air leak at the plastic insulator between the carb and engine. I see them hairline crack or warp to not be flat causing this nightmare issue. Spray some carb cleaner while it's running on either side of the insulator plastic and see if you get it to change. If it does you know this is the issue. Do this while it's not hot and be careful so you don't start a fire. Be prepared for that possibility either way. Thanks for watching! Hope you get it figured out!!
@@IndRepair so I pulled off the plastic spacer and checked it on a true flat surface and found it to be slightly warped. Sanded it down with sandpaper on a true flat surface and bingo. I knew that an air leak could cause chaos but dang! Have a great day. One of my favorite channels.👍
Merci !
Thank you!
Bought this machine used about dozen times in 4 years and this year cheap plastic console holds shift cable broke only goes in reverse, to fix have to replace entire console, don’t buy this machine!!!
I have replaced a few of the plastic console assemblies and they have always been worth replacing. Is this one really expensive or on backorder / no longer available?