*UPDATE: PLEASE READ* Looks like I've stumbled onto a design disaster. This issue also affects all Poulan PR snowblower models as well as many Grey Craftsman branded snowblowers! Here is a link to a forum where other owners had similar issues with their Husqvarna: answerarmy.com/posts/d0bf023b20 And Poulan: www.poulanpro.com/us/products/snow-blowers/pr241/961920092/ Unfortunately, it appears that these issues happen weeks, or months after the 3 year warranty expires. UPDATE VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/znnRqCA7kWQ/v-deo.html *Husqvarna did upgrade to a metal console. The issue is, they discontinued these older models and only designed a new metal console for the 2020+ models, which includes the ST224s, as well as all newer Poulan and also grey Craftsman branded units. I've been told the new metal consoles DO NOT work on the older units, which is why they sent me the same plastic console to fix this one. As it turns out, the Husqvarna rep I originally spoke with was technically correct when she mentioned an "upgraded metal console design", sadly this was only referring to the newer 2020 models, and she failed to mention that.*
i have a similar issue on my 324.......I only have 3 hours on a new 2020 machine so it's headed to an approved mechanic in a couple of days to see what's up......I'll let you know
Thank you Jake for warning us of these weaknesses and lack of information regarding the lubrication of parts which results in breakage due to their lack of information. Which in addition occur that a few days have passed the end of the warranty. No more question of buying Husqvarna for me. God Bless 🍺🍺👍
In 2015 I bought the same model. When I got it home the first thing I did was take the belly pan off to see how well it was lubricated. It was just as you described. So I cleaned it up and greased it just as you did and it has been fine ever since so you’ve done it right to save it from self destructing.
I bought mine in 2015 and luckily there hasn't been a lot of snow until last year. I had seen your video and bought low temp grease, white lithium grease and greased all the cables and interior moving parts that needed greased. I prevented issues! I just did maintenance again preparing for this winter. Glad I found your video!!
ANOTHER LEARNING EXPERIENCE FROM EP.. thank you for all your well spoken videos that are easy to understand.. very very important stuff for maintaining your snowblowers or anything in small engines. You have saved me lots money .. by taking 5 min to watch these videos.... it's well worth the savings. thanks EP
European craftsmanship at its usual crappiest. My 224 just did the exact same thing, minus the cheesy plastic part breaking, thank God. There is not a word in the manual about lubing that shaft. Thanks for this great video. By including part numbers, procedure, and links to other users who have had the same problems, you have saved lots of people lots of time, money and aggravation. Hat's off!
@@EliminatorPerformance Update, 12-28-2021 Received two replacement cables today, installed one, cleaned and greased octagonal shaft, using bicycle grease. Shift is just as stiff and resistant as before greasing shaft. Now it works, but I'm afraid to shift speeds except when absolutely necessary. Prognosis: gonna break again, and take the control panel with it.
Thanks for getting this out there. I just found your channel, and I'm glad I did. I have the same unit, and I'm almost to the 3 year mark. I try to keep up with the maintenance, but like you said there's nothing in the book about that hex shaft. That just moved up to #1 on my list of spring equipment work.
Awesome, glad to hear you found me! Make sure you take a wire wheel or something and get all that crap off the hex shaft, then use a low temp grease like I suggested. Thanks for watching!
Bought an st224 in 2019. I lubed the hex shaft and pivot points but shifter has gotten very stiff very quickly. That grease must not have been low temp. I'm re-greasing before the next snow. Man this may have saved me a ton of aggravation. Once again I thank you.
I watched your video and found the same thing was happening to mine. Although mine was not broken just cracked. Found it in time. I came up with a fix. I made an aluminum plate to support the bracket. It worked perfect. If I could upload a picture I could show you what I did.
Great video! Saved me a lot of grief. I added a large washer to the side that breaks and use JB Weld to fasten it to strengthen up the unit. I also put a label on the shift lever to warn against not going past 4th gear
Well researched video especially finding others with the same situation definitely puts this in free replacement category for Husky if they want to maintain a good customer relationship.
Thanks friend, I just came into possession of a ST 227 that is hard shifting. I will be doing a hex shaft clean and lube today. Appreciate it. Thanks again Steve.
Make sure you watch the update video on this, I believe the link is in the description, I'd recommend not shifting above 3rd or 4th if you absolutely don't have to
*Husqvarna did upgrade to a metal console. The issue is, they discontinued these older models and only designed a new metal console for the 2020+ models, which includes the ST224s, as well as all newer Poulan and also grey Craftsman branded units. I've been told the new metal consoles DO NOT work on the older units, which is why they sent me the same plastic console to fix this one. As it turns out, the Husqvarna rep I originally spoke with was technically correct when she mentioned an "upgraded metal console design", sadly this was only referring to the newer 2020 models, and she failed to mention that.*
OMG. This is the exact issue I am dealing with on my Husqvarna. The plastic console is such a joke. Some of the weakest plastic I have ever seen in a place that it needs to be rigid and strong. I started looking at the machine and I thought I could fabricate a bracket to anchor the cable to. My cable is not broken. But it is absolutely a necessity to be anchored to the console in order to have the shifting cable to be effective. So I have been successful with the fab part of the project. My next issue is it won't go into the higher gears. It's lucky if it's moving in a first gear speed and the reverse gear works too. So it's now midnight here, tired. Tomorrow I will look into the friction wheel issues and the lube of the shift shaft. Thank you for the video.
Cable snapped exactly like this. Out of stock in Canada, shipped up to parts store in Ottawa for 65 dollars with tax and shipping. The cable also has a poor desgn where it has to kink sharply under the console creating a weak point. Thanks to this video I know now to grease the shaft mentioned so it doesn't jam.
Great video! Thanks for the useful information. My ST 227 had the same issue. The connecting plastic where its pinned on the console also split but I was able to epoxy it. I'm glad I found your video because I'm sure I wouldn't have lubricated the shaft and it would of happened again.
I have a 230p it’s been hard to shift lately and today the gear issue just happened in the middle of a huge snow storm. Thank god for your video. Hopefully it just needs a good greasing.
I want to buy a used Husqvarna snowblower and I would like your honest opinion. I am very meticulously about yearly maintenance,I do it every year no if ands or buts about it. I have a 27 year old MTD 522 and a 26 year old MTD 826 both in like new condition, I'm a retired nuclear machinist and very meticulously with everything I do. I don't need the Husqvarna snowblower but I want it anyways lol. I value your opinion and thanks for another great video, very concise and informative and most of all very HELPFUL. You the man and look forward to hearing from you.
Out of all the new snow blowers, I'd recommend an Ariens Deluxe or Platinum (try to get an SHO because it'll have the larger engine) or I'd recommend the Cub Cadet 2X 30 MAX, as it's the only cub cadet currently featuring a 14" impeller. The Ariens all come with a 14" impeller. If I was to buy a new snowblower, it would most likely be the Ariens Platinum 24 SHO as it has an even bigger engine than the Deluxe 30" but in a 24" housing. I honestly wished Ariens would build a 26" SHO as it would be the perfect residential snowblower in my opinion. A 28" is a bit big for me, and the 24" seems a bit small, but the 17ft-lbs engine makes it the best snow blower currently on the market. The Ariens are a bit pricey, but they are well built, mostly all steel construction, parts made to wear over a long period of time, thus made to last. The Deluxe series is the lowest I'd go, as I would not recommend the compact series. Spend the money now, keep up the maintenance, and it'll be the last snow blower you ever buy.
Thanks for the advice I will look into the Ariens snowblowers I agree they're one of the best. I don't like there prices they're expensive but I have always believed that you get what you pay for. Thanks for the advice I'll let you know what I buy, I always watch and enjoy your videos keep up the great work.
Thanks dude! I had a similar problem, except my cable did fail... well the rigid plastic around it did so luckily I don't think I have to replace the console, just the cable. But I will lube it up while I am replacing the cable. Great video!
Thanks for watching! I'm interested in knowing how you found the video, I tagged the cable part number hoping it would pop up as recommended when people searched for the cable!
Terrible design. I own the same snowblower. The cable is routed in such a steep angle that it ate through the plastic coating. Mine was only a few years old also.
Not a job I'd like to do, replacing that upper assembly. But at my home, I would've made a doubler for the cable support and attached it with rivets and JB Weld. My ST224P is four or five years old, time to do some mx on it. Thanks for the video. I learned something. EDIT: I searched the manual for the term "lifetime" and didn't find it anywhere. This is the current revision of the manual so maybe they deleted it from the older versions.
Here's an example of the terminology they used previously. Read the "traction drive" section; "TRACTION DRIVE SYSTEM DO NOT lubricate the drive components inside the snow thrower. The sprockets, hex shafts, drive disc and friction wheel require no lubrication. The bearings and bushings are lifetime lubricated and require no maintenance. CAUTION: Any lubricating of the above components can cause contamination of the friction wheel and damage to the drive system of your snow thrower." www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.manualslib.com/manual/74705/Husqvarna-927sb.html%3Fpage%3D14&ved=2ahUKEwjc9_-wiJj8AhWUFVkFHUvmCdUQFnoECAoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2Rt1ghIpnGvsyPVjchwmbV
Make sure you wire wheel off all that crap 1st, then properly lube with some low temp! Also lube the pivot points on the shift arm. Absolutely bone dry under this unit! Thanks for watching!
Yeah, I try and maintain my snowblower and just as you highlight, the maintenance suggestions in the instructions are CLEARLY INSUFFICIENT. My auger cable was freezing and out of frustration, I broke the stupid thing (not the cable but the plastic holder to the handle). I wish I watched this video at the end of last season when I do my oil change and lubrication as per their minimal instructions. But are we surprised?
So actually, what is the reason for my auger cable freezing in the up (disengaged) position? I have to bring it inside at ambient room temp to be able to engage it at the right handle bar. As soon as I take it out in -10 C or colder weather to do some snow blowing, the auger cable starts being difficulty and it sticks in place, namely in the engaged position with the handle down. Over time it seems to disengage then it stays stuck in the upright/disengaged position (unless I bring it in again to warm up). Why is this happening?!.
J'ai exactement rencontré le même problème présenté dans la vidéo ce qui m'a permis de décider de passer à une réparation au lieu d'un changement total du support des commandes . J'ai utilisé du < PVC Thermo - Formable> de 2.5 mm pour refaire les points d'encrages des câblages additionnés de rondelles en Téflon afin d'augmenter la rigidité des axes d'encrages ....
I think you've solved my problem. Last weekend, I used my 2015 Husqvarna ST224P to clear 24" of snow. It worked well except I noticed that the shift would start to bind if I tried to move it past third gear. I didn't want to force it for fear that the cable would snap so I kept it at third gear or lower. Reverse was fine. Based on your video, tomorrow I'll take the panel off and check the hex shaft lubrication. Do you have a video on how to thoroughly clean the shaft and plate? Thanks.
I have one of these bought new in Dec 2015 and I’ve had no issues and have lubricated nothing and it works and shifts perfect on all controls. I have used it in wet snow 3 feet deep in a large driveway and deck area but I don’t force the machine and I use a low gear. I’m on the original belts and sheared the auger pins once last winter when the snow scraper tool came off in deep snow and I didn’t notice it and I went over it. The manual actually states to not lubricate the hex shaft. Here is the manual info: DO NOT lubricate the drive components inside the snow thrower. The sprockets, hex shafts, drive disc and friction wheel require no lubrication. The bearings and bushings are lifetime lubricated and require no maintenance. CAUTION: Any lubricating of the above components can cause contamination of the friction wheel and damage to the drive system of your snow thrower.
Note costumers of repair shops , just because it is new does not mean it does not need maintenance , but if you maintain your new machine you can avoid costly bills . The machine will always run like new , and be ready all the time for use.
NIce video. Looked like the shoes might be out of adjustment?? What engine is Husqvarna using now. I just fixed one with an 11 h.p. Tecumseh on it. Thanks for the video.
I definitely will be greasing in the am. Ive replaced the speed cable twice already on my Husky. Im having a hard time today with the upper plastic piece re-assembly.
Thanks for the video! How did you get that plastic cable clip off? Interestingly I just had the exact same break - but on the vertical deflection cable. There’s something about that cable guide that puts a lot of stress/rub on the cables there.
I’m gonna do this later and yes it helped me out looks pretty easy my part isn’t the same number but it looks exactly the same my original part is the 588 number but the new one is different idk I’ll try and use it I mean it looks exact the cable so idk I hope it works I’ll give it a shot why it doesn’t match idk maybe it’s from dif manufacturer but will work idk th aks for spending time doing the video cheers bub.
Hey great video man I have the same model. My shoot always freezes and only loosens after a bit of rage persuasion lol, only to freeze up again within 30 seconds. It’s stretched now from the persuasion. Any tips?
Hello I hope you or someone else reads this. VEverything seems like 3 years old, so I do not know if you still do this. I watched your video numerous times and have the same problem with the broken piece of plastic. I have been waiting for this part since first snowfall and now it is Feb 29,2024 and still no sigh of backorder being shipped. A BIG WINTER STORM COMING. To at leas get my machine to run forward, do you think I could drill a hole in the centre of the 'fricton disk rod, and put a cotter pin throughh it to lock the machine in One direction nd one speed only. I cant thin k of any other work arounds. Reg
Yes that would work, basically you'd always have 1st gear for example. Just make sure you file the flat spots where the holes are to clear the burrs from drilling. That's a good idea.
Great video. I unfortunately have the same problem on my Husqvarna snow blower ST224. I found your video during my search for the repair. My question is, did the new part number for the console beef up the design?
Husqvarna assured me that the superceded part number will have a "metal reinforcement". It worried me because I couldn't find a photo online of what the new console looks like. I ordered parts in late February and they're still not here, I've been told before the end of March they should arrive. I will post an update video once I receive the parts.
@@stephenfalsetto6901 we just got the part in today, the new console (that's supposed to be reinforced) is NOT reinforced. I was told by Husqvarna customer support that it was supposed to have thicker plastic and a "metal reinforcement" sadly it does not. Greasing frequently may be the only solution to this design flaw.
Mine broke too it looks like they are poorly designed. My auger bearing went out to only 2 years old. And it came with a 6203 bearing with only one side sealed allowing dirt and moisture inside. I replaced it with a 6203 2rs with 2 seals.
You would have to flip the machine up, and manually slide the friction wheel into gear, then use something like a hose clamp to prevent the friction wheel from going farther to the right.
Just food for thought......I woulda repaired the console using Max One (German super glue) gluing the plastic back together and further reinforcing by gluing a piece of flat stock or a large washer on both sides of the break for a permanent fix. (I've repaired so many things with Max One -- it's pretty amazing stuff). Nothing ventured, nothing gained. For the friction wheel slider, I'd clean with Alcohol and thin coat with Fluid Film.
Hey so stupid question but when you flip the blower up on end like that do you need to allow time for the oil to run back into it's proper area at the bottom before you start it? I have the same machine and snapped the same cable today.
Yes absolutely, I probably should have mentioned that! It'll smoke lots if you fire it up right away, as alot of oil will make it's way to the top end. Let it drain back down for 10 mins or so
The plastic "boss" on my shifter cable that mounts under the control panel TOTALLY broke off. Cable is fine but theres nowhere to reattach it. Going to have to "Frankenstein" a bracket to mount it or get a whole control mounting panel from them....not
Great video thanks. I have the same machine, same problem. Definitely a design fault / crappy engineers i suspect. I will repair it, home brew style. I always thought the shifting was too stiff, thought maybe the spring was to heavy. I will try the lube. The blower itself is nice to use.
Well without pressure from the cable, the spring on the friction wheel pushes it into reverse. (To the right) so I'd double check the cable and plastic, also check out my update video I did
I have the same blower with the similar problem but the cable doesn't seem broke and I can get it into forward but it won't go full speed does that mean the cable stretched to much? I was using it and I heard a band and that's when it wouldn't go full speed.
Ok thank you I think your right it's stuck at like gear 1 or 2 because the friction wheel can't move past that spot because when I move the lever I can see it move a little, I will grease it and see if that fixes it, Thanks for the help.
I've got a Husqvarna snowblower and when it gets cold the drive will stick and I have a hard time stopping it. Does anyone know easy solution for this?
Lubricate the cable and also the pivot point of the friction plate. Sounds like the cable could also have too much tension. You should be able to push the snowblower when it's off, and when you engage the drive lever, you should not be able to push it. That means the friction wheel is engaging the friction plate properly. If it's not disengaging, something is sticking
The drive set up is way to complicated, on my old snowblower there is a Rod which connect to gearshifter much more relaiable, BOTTOM LINE IS KEEP IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE
Husqvarna should be ashamed for selling consumers junk like that, but I already know that they aren't. Just spend a little more money, and buy an Ariens or a Toro machine.
Husqvarna has no clue who their dealers and servicing dealers are. Put in my zip code, and a bunch of hardware stores that do NOT sell the brand pop up (never sold the brand), along with 2 service centers that closed three years ago. The website help? Good luck with that, the problem that I had has no 'links', so if you plan to use that website, make sure that when you break the snow blower, you break something that has a link to it (lol), because if you don't, forget getting a fix before winter is over. Bottom line, you will NOT be able to talk to anyone. Customer service is non-existent, best thing to do is avoid this brand period, whether it is a snowblower, motorcycle, or a hand held feather duster. Nothing but headaches trying to solve a problem or troubleshoot it.
I have the ST227 and it’s only going backwards. The plastic console and connectors have broken off. This is a piece of crap snow blower. There are so many design flaws in this product. I will never buy any Husqvarna products again.
Yes it's pretty sad, they did end up upgrading the design, but unfortunately they discontinued the older versions and decided to make a newer model with a metal console. The older plastic versions can't be updated from what I can see.
Cold temperatures and thin plastic just don't get it done... Husq. had best watch their asses. Of course they won't warranty it; they KNOW the design is shit.
The operator's manual for my ST 224 states' " The sprockets, hex shafts, drive disk and friction wheel require no lubrication. The bearings and bushings are lifetime lubricated and require no maintenance."
*UPDATE: PLEASE READ*
Looks like I've stumbled onto a design disaster. This issue also affects all Poulan PR snowblower models as well as many Grey Craftsman branded snowblowers! Here is a link to a forum where other owners had similar issues with their Husqvarna: answerarmy.com/posts/d0bf023b20
And Poulan: www.poulanpro.com/us/products/snow-blowers/pr241/961920092/
Unfortunately, it appears that these issues happen weeks, or months after the 3 year warranty expires.
UPDATE VIDEO: ua-cam.com/video/znnRqCA7kWQ/v-deo.html
*Husqvarna did upgrade to a metal console. The issue is, they discontinued these older models and only designed a new metal console for the 2020+ models, which includes the ST224s, as well as all newer Poulan and also grey Craftsman branded units. I've been told the new metal consoles DO NOT work on the older units, which is why they sent me the same plastic console to fix this one. As it turns out, the Husqvarna rep I originally spoke with was technically correct when she mentioned an "upgraded metal console design", sadly this was only referring to the newer 2020 models, and she failed to mention that.*
i have a similar issue on my 324.......I only have 3 hours on a new 2020 machine so it's headed to an approved mechanic in a couple of days to see what's up......I'll let you know
I have a plastic console and have never had a shifting issue... Just chute pitch and direction control sometimes
Thank you Jake for warning us of these weaknesses and lack of information regarding the lubrication of parts which results in breakage due to their lack of information. Which in addition occur that a few days have passed the end of the warranty. No more question of buying Husqvarna for me. God Bless 🍺🍺👍
Thanks for watching!
In 2015 I bought the same model. When I got it home the first thing I did was take the belly pan off to see how well it was lubricated. It was just as you described. So I cleaned it up and greased it just as you did and it has been fine ever since so you’ve done it right to save it from self destructing.
Yes it really is a terrible design, but the lack of proper lubrication also doesn't help. Thanks for watching!
I bought mine in 2015 and luckily there hasn't been a lot of snow until last year. I had seen your video and bought low temp grease, white lithium grease and greased all the cables and interior moving parts that needed greased. I prevented issues! I just did maintenance again preparing for this winter. Glad I found your video!!
Sounds like you caught it in time Pete, glad to hear. Thanks for watching!
ANOTHER LEARNING EXPERIENCE FROM EP.. thank you for all your well spoken videos that are easy to understand.. very very important stuff for maintaining your snowblowers or anything in small engines. You have saved me lots money .. by taking 5 min to watch these videos.... it's well worth the savings. thanks EP
Thanks for watching!
European craftsmanship at its usual crappiest. My 224 just did the exact same thing, minus the cheesy plastic part breaking, thank God. There is not a word in the manual about lubing that shaft. Thanks for this great video. By including part numbers, procedure, and links to other users who have had the same problems, you have saved lots of people lots of time, money and aggravation. Hat's off!
Thanks for watching, glad you caught it in time!
@@EliminatorPerformance Update, 12-28-2021 Received two replacement cables today, installed one, cleaned and greased octagonal shaft, using bicycle grease. Shift is just as stiff and resistant as before greasing shaft. Now it works, but I'm afraid to shift speeds except when absolutely necessary.
Prognosis: gonna break again, and take the control panel with it.
@@michaelnagle8250 yes that's why in my update video I recommended my customer not shift beyond 4th gear. Too much stress on the plastic
Thanks for getting this out there. I just found your channel, and I'm glad I did. I have the same unit, and I'm almost to the 3 year mark. I try to keep up with the maintenance, but like you said there's nothing in the book about that hex shaft. That just moved up to #1 on my list of spring equipment work.
Awesome, glad to hear you found me! Make sure you take a wire wheel or something and get all that crap off the hex shaft, then use a low temp grease like I suggested. Thanks for watching!
Bought an st224 in 2019. I lubed the hex shaft and pivot points but shifter has gotten very stiff very quickly. That grease must not have been low temp. I'm re-greasing before the next snow. Man this may have saved me a ton of aggravation. Once again I thank you.
Anytime, thanks for watching!
I watched your video and found the same thing was happening to mine. Although mine was not broken just cracked. Found it in time. I came up with a fix. I made an aluminum plate to support the bracket. It worked perfect. If I could upload a picture I could show you what I did.
Best UA-cam vid I've ever seen. Super clear and to the point. Thank you
Check the update video if you'd like to see part 2
Great video! Saved me a lot of grief. I added a large washer to the side that breaks and use JB Weld to fasten it to strengthen up the unit. I also put a label on the shift lever to warn against not going past 4th gear
Well researched video especially finding others with the same situation definitely puts this in free replacement category for Husky if they want to maintain a good customer relationship.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks friend, I just came into possession of a ST 227 that is hard shifting. I will be doing a hex shaft clean and lube today. Appreciate it. Thanks again Steve.
Make sure you watch the update video on this, I believe the link is in the description, I'd recommend not shifting above 3rd or 4th if you absolutely don't have to
*Husqvarna did upgrade to a metal console. The issue is, they discontinued these older models and only designed a new metal console for the 2020+ models, which includes the ST224s, as well as all newer Poulan and also grey Craftsman branded units. I've been told the new metal consoles DO NOT work on the older units, which is why they sent me the same plastic console to fix this one. As it turns out, the Husqvarna rep I originally spoke with was technically correct when she mentioned an "upgraded metal console design", sadly this was only referring to the newer 2020 models, and she failed to mention that.*
OMG. This is the exact issue I am dealing with on my Husqvarna. The plastic console is such a joke. Some of the weakest plastic I have ever seen in a place that it needs to be rigid and strong.
I started looking at the machine and I thought I could fabricate a bracket to anchor the cable to. My cable is not broken. But it is absolutely a necessity to be anchored to the console in order to have the shifting cable to be effective.
So I have been successful with the fab part of the project. My next issue is it won't go into the higher gears. It's lucky if it's moving in a first gear speed and the reverse gear works too. So it's now midnight here, tired. Tomorrow I will look into the friction wheel issues and the lube of the shift shaft. Thank you for the video.
It's a terrible design, good luck with the repair!
Cable snapped exactly like this. Out of stock in Canada, shipped up to parts store in Ottawa for 65 dollars with tax and shipping. The cable also has a poor desgn where it has to kink sharply under the console creating a weak point. Thanks to this video I know now to grease the shaft mentioned so it doesn't jam.
Great video! Thanks for the useful information. My ST 227 had the same issue. The connecting plastic where its pinned on the console also split but I was able to epoxy it. I'm glad I found your video because I'm sure I wouldn't have lubricated the shaft and it would of happened again.
Glad you found it, thanks for watching!
I have a 230p it’s been hard to shift lately and today the gear issue just happened in the middle of a huge snow storm. Thank god for your video. Hopefully it just needs a good greasing.
Good luck, also be sure to watch the update video I did. Basically a part 2 follow up that includes more info
I want to buy a used Husqvarna snowblower and I would like your honest opinion. I am very meticulously about yearly maintenance,I do it every year no if ands or buts about it. I have a 27 year old MTD 522 and a 26 year old MTD 826 both in like new condition, I'm a retired nuclear machinist and very meticulously with everything I do. I don't need the Husqvarna snowblower but I want it anyways lol. I value your opinion and thanks for another great video, very concise and informative and most of all very HELPFUL. You the man and look forward to hearing from you.
Out of all the new snow blowers, I'd recommend an Ariens Deluxe or Platinum (try to get an SHO because it'll have the larger engine) or I'd recommend the Cub Cadet 2X 30 MAX, as it's the only cub cadet currently featuring a 14" impeller. The Ariens all come with a 14" impeller. If I was to buy a new snowblower, it would most likely be the Ariens Platinum 24 SHO as it has an even bigger engine than the Deluxe 30" but in a 24" housing. I honestly wished Ariens would build a 26" SHO as it would be the perfect residential snowblower in my opinion. A 28" is a bit big for me, and the 24" seems a bit small, but the 17ft-lbs engine makes it the best snow blower currently on the market. The Ariens are a bit pricey, but they are well built, mostly all steel construction, parts made to wear over a long period of time, thus made to last. The Deluxe series is the lowest I'd go, as I would not recommend the compact series. Spend the money now, keep up the maintenance, and it'll be the last snow blower you ever buy.
Thanks for the advice I will look into the Ariens snowblowers I agree they're one of the best. I don't like there prices they're expensive but I have always believed that you get what you pay for. Thanks for the advice I'll let you know what I buy, I always watch and enjoy your videos keep up the great work.
Great video!!!!! Tragic enginnering from Husq.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks dude! I had a similar problem, except my cable did fail... well the rigid plastic around it did so luckily I don't think I have to replace the console, just the cable. But I will lube it up while I am replacing the cable. Great video!
Thanks for watching! I'm interested in knowing how you found the video, I tagged the cable part number hoping it would pop up as recommended when people searched for the cable!
Terrible design. I own the same snowblower. The cable is routed in such a steep angle that it ate through the plastic coating. Mine was only a few years old also.
Not a job I'd like to do, replacing that upper assembly. But at my home, I would've made a doubler for the cable support and attached it with rivets and JB Weld.
My ST224P is four or five years old, time to do some mx on it. Thanks for the video. I learned something.
EDIT: I searched the manual for the term "lifetime" and didn't find it anywhere. This is the current revision of the manual so maybe they deleted it from the older versions.
Here's an example of the terminology they used previously. Read the "traction drive" section;
"TRACTION DRIVE SYSTEM
DO NOT lubricate the drive components inside the snow thrower. The sprockets, hex shafts, drive disc and friction wheel require no lubrication. The bearings and bushings are lifetime lubricated and require no maintenance.
CAUTION: Any lubricating of the above components can cause contamination of the friction wheel and damage to the drive system of your snow thrower."
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.manualslib.com/manual/74705/Husqvarna-927sb.html%3Fpage%3D14&ved=2ahUKEwjc9_-wiJj8AhWUFVkFHUvmCdUQFnoECAoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2Rt1ghIpnGvsyPVjchwmbV
@@EliminatorPerformance Yep.that's bollocks!
Excellent video. I have the same blower, I think you just saved me a bunch of money and hassle. I will make sure to lube as you indicated. Thanks!
Make sure you wire wheel off all that crap 1st, then properly lube with some low temp! Also lube the pivot points on the shift arm. Absolutely bone dry under this unit! Thanks for watching!
Yeah, I try and maintain my snowblower and just as you highlight, the maintenance suggestions in the instructions are CLEARLY INSUFFICIENT. My auger cable was freezing and out of frustration, I broke the stupid thing (not the cable but the plastic holder to the handle). I wish I watched this video at the end of last season when I do my oil change and lubrication as per their minimal instructions. But are we surprised?
So actually, what is the reason for my auger cable freezing in the up (disengaged) position? I have to bring it inside at ambient room temp to be able to engage it at the right handle bar. As soon as I take it out in -10 C or colder weather to do some snow blowing, the auger cable starts being difficulty and it sticks in place, namely in the engaged position with the handle down. Over time it seems to disengage then it stays stuck in the upright/disengaged position (unless I bring it in again to warm up). Why is this happening?!.
that cable looks thin as well, great video, Thanks! 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video . My unit is Husqvarna ST224P - I have to order the base console as well. My plastic console was broken.
J'ai exactement rencontré le même problème présenté dans la vidéo ce qui m'a permis de décider de passer à une réparation au lieu d'un changement total du support des commandes .
J'ai utilisé du < PVC Thermo - Formable> de 2.5 mm pour refaire les points d'encrages des câblages additionnés de rondelles en Téflon afin d'augmenter la rigidité des axes d'encrages ....
I think you've solved my problem. Last weekend, I used my 2015 Husqvarna ST224P to clear 24" of snow. It worked well except I noticed that the shift would start to bind if I tried to move it past third gear. I didn't want to force it for fear that the cable would snap so I kept it at third gear or lower. Reverse was fine. Based on your video, tomorrow I'll take the panel off and check the hex shaft lubrication. Do you have a video on how to thoroughly clean the shaft and plate? Thanks.
The update video linked in the description; ua-cam.com/video/znnRqCA7kWQ/v-deo.html
I have one of these bought new in Dec 2015 and I’ve had no issues and have lubricated nothing and it works and shifts perfect on all controls. I have used it in wet snow 3 feet deep in a large driveway and deck area but I don’t force the machine and I use a low gear. I’m on the original belts and sheared the auger pins once last winter when the snow scraper tool came off in deep snow and I didn’t notice it and I went over it.
The manual actually states to not lubricate the hex shaft. Here is the manual info:
DO NOT lubricate the drive components inside the snow thrower. The sprockets, hex shafts, drive disc and friction wheel require no lubrication. The bearings and bushings are lifetime lubricated and require no maintenance.
CAUTION: Any lubricating of the above components can cause contamination of the friction wheel and damage to the drive system of your snow thrower.
Great video my man!!!
✌️🙂💯🍻
Note costumers of repair shops , just because it is new does not mean it does not need maintenance , but if you maintain your new machine you can avoid costly bills . The machine will always run like new , and be ready all the time for use.
Exactly, something I try to tell all my customers!
NIce video. Looked like the shoes might be out of adjustment?? What engine is Husqvarna using now. I just fixed one with an 11 h.p. Tecumseh on it. Thanks for the video.
They're plastic too so they wear quicker, and if the owner doesn't keep them adjusted properly, it'll wear out the scraper bar quicker!
Thanks for your information it’s the same thing happened to my Husqvarna .
Check for the update video!
I definitely will be greasing in the am. Ive replaced the speed cable twice already on my Husky. Im having a hard time today with the upper plastic piece re-assembly.
Maybe time to sell it, save yourself the hassle
Sooo helpful. The exact same thing happened to ours
Thanks for the video! How did you get that plastic cable clip off?
Interestingly I just had the exact same break - but on the vertical deflection cable. There’s something about that cable guide that puts a lot of stress/rub on the cables there.
3 or 4 years ago I started looking at machines to see what I would be working on now. Cables Cables Cables.
Yes it's a shame, thanks for watching!
good video . i just replaces mine on a harqvarna st23p . it was not alot of fun but got it done
Thanks for watching!
I’m gonna do this later and yes it helped me out looks pretty easy my part isn’t the same number but it looks exactly the same my original part is the 588 number but the new one is different idk I’ll try and use it I mean it looks exact the cable so idk I hope it works I’ll give it a shot why it doesn’t match idk maybe it’s from dif manufacturer but will work idk th aks for spending time doing the video cheers bub.
Hey great video man I have the same model. My shoot always freezes and only loosens after a bit of rage persuasion lol, only to freeze up again within 30 seconds. It’s stretched now from the persuasion. Any tips?
Can you tip these snowblowers up with gas in them, or should I drain the gas first?
Hello
I hope you or someone else reads this. VEverything seems like 3 years old, so I do not know if you still do this. I watched your video numerous times and have the same problem with the broken piece of plastic. I have been waiting for this part since first snowfall and now it is Feb 29,2024 and still no sigh of backorder being shipped. A BIG WINTER STORM COMING. To at leas get my machine to run forward, do you think I could drill a hole in the centre of the 'fricton disk rod, and put a cotter pin throughh it to lock the machine in One direction nd one speed only. I cant thin k of any other work arounds. Reg
Yes that would work, basically you'd always have 1st gear for example. Just make sure you file the flat spots where the holes are to clear the burrs from drilling. That's a good idea.
UPDATE Video: ua-cam.com/video/znnRqCA7kWQ/v-deo.html
Thanks, cleaned up is much better , stiff upper gears won’t go there. Cheesy machine. I think I’ll hang onto my old Snowflites.
Great video. I unfortunately have the same problem on my Husqvarna snow blower ST224. I found your video during my search for the repair. My question is, did the new part number for the console beef up the design?
Husqvarna assured me that the superceded part number will have a "metal reinforcement". It worried me because I couldn't find a photo online of what the new console looks like. I ordered parts in late February and they're still not here, I've been told before the end of March they should arrive. I will post an update video once I receive the parts.
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you for the quick response and troubleshooting recommendations. I’m looking forward to the follow up video. Thanks.
@@EliminatorPerformance Hello... Any update on the new part? Thanks
@@stephenfalsetto6901 we just got the part in today, the new console (that's supposed to be reinforced) is NOT reinforced. I was told by Husqvarna customer support that it was supposed to have thicker plastic and a "metal reinforcement" sadly it does not. Greasing frequently may be the only solution to this design flaw.
@@waynestefinashen239 Thank you for the response and recommendation on greasing frequently. I appreciate your instructional videos.
Mine broke too it looks like they are poorly designed. My auger bearing went out to only 2 years old. And it came with a 6203 bearing with only one side sealed allowing dirt and moisture inside. I replaced it with a 6203 2rs with 2 seals.
Do you have (or know of) a video that shows the actual replacement of the cable?
Any tips for temporarily forcing it into one of the drive speeds. Metal hose clamp or something to hold it forward?
You would have to flip the machine up, and manually slide the friction wheel into gear, then use something like a hose clamp to prevent the friction wheel from going farther to the right.
Just food for thought......I woulda repaired the console using Max One (German super glue) gluing the plastic back together and further reinforcing by gluing a piece of flat stock or a large washer on both sides of the break for a permanent fix. (I've repaired so many things with Max One -- it's pretty amazing stuff). Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
For the friction wheel slider, I'd clean with Alcohol and thin coat with Fluid Film.
Hey so stupid question but when you flip the blower up on end like that do you need to allow time for the oil to run back into it's proper area at the bottom before you start it? I have the same machine and snapped the same cable today.
Yes absolutely, I probably should have mentioned that! It'll smoke lots if you fire it up right away, as alot of oil will make it's way to the top end. Let it drain back down for 10 mins or so
The plastic "boss" on my shifter cable that mounts under the control panel TOTALLY broke off. Cable is fine but theres nowhere to reattach it. Going to have to "Frankenstein" a bracket to mount it or get a whole control mounting panel from them....not
Cheap plastic
Had the same problem. Cost like 400.00 bucks. Do you have a video of replacing the cables to the snow chute
Great video thanks. I have the same machine, same problem. Definitely a design fault / crappy engineers i suspect. I will repair it, home brew style. I always thought the shifting was too stiff, thought maybe the spring was to heavy. I will try the lube. The blower itself is nice to use.
my cable never busted but my snowblower won’t go forward it just goes backwards any ideas what’s going on there?
Well without pressure from the cable, the spring on the friction wheel pushes it into reverse. (To the right) so I'd double check the cable and plastic, also check out my update video I did
okay yea trying to get it going rn but having trouble
yea i’m looking at it now that little plastic on the console is broken like on this video but the cable is still good
I have the same blower with the similar problem but the cable doesn't seem broke and I can get it into forward but it won't go full speed does that mean the cable stretched to much? I was using it and I heard a band and that's when it wouldn't go full speed.
You may have broken the plastic, or the friction wheel is stuck. Flipping it up and removing access panel to lube is recommended.
I just went out to look the plastic is not broken so the cable could be broken at the spring end or I need to grease the rod am I right?
Yes, the friction wheel could be stuck in low gear
Ok thank you I think your right it's stuck at like gear 1 or 2 because the friction wheel can't move past that spot because when I move the lever I can see it move a little, I will grease it and see if that fixes it, Thanks for the help.
I've got a Husqvarna snowblower and when it gets cold the drive will stick and I have a hard time stopping it. Does anyone know easy solution for this?
Lubricate the cable and also the pivot point of the friction plate. Sounds like the cable could also have too much tension. You should be able to push the snowblower when it's off, and when you engage the drive lever, you should not be able to push it. That means the friction wheel is engaging the friction plate properly. If it's not disengaging, something is sticking
Good day Boy too bad about warranty. I was at dealer told my bro. about 1 , same as video. Thanks
Sad to hear, thanks for watching!
i have the same problem too mine its just the contral cable the broke mine is the st224 as well same as the on e in the video
Make sure you clean and grease the shifter shaft,
@@EliminatorPerformance what kind of grease should i use
what type of grease should i use and can i order it from amazon
@@TheGamerSquadGamer yes, low temperature grease, or a Lucas white lithium grease!
I greese mine every year my cable broke because the extreme bend in the back of the mounting bracket .
Yes it's truly a terrible design!
Note to self- do not buy a new snow blower-- stick with the old stuff-----I have one 34 years old -runs fine
Yea lots of issues with the new ones, and new designs cause new problems!
They don't make them like they used to. What a shame.
That's forsure, thanks for watching!
The drive set up is way to complicated, on my old snowblower there is a Rod which connect to gearshifter much more relaiable,
BOTTOM LINE IS KEEP IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE
KISS, as the old saying goes! Thanks for watching!
in a nutshell... It's Crap ! the part # is xxxxx xxxx and good luck with that.
Nice
Thanks for watching!
I fixed my sister's Husquvarna like this one that broke in the same location with JB Weld
Nice, I wanted to give my customer a guarantee, so he said order the parts!
Husqvarna should be ashamed for selling consumers junk like that, but I already know that they aren't.
Just spend a little more money, and buy an Ariens or a Toro machine.
same shit happened to me
Husqvarna has no clue who their dealers and servicing dealers are. Put in my zip code, and a bunch of hardware stores that do NOT sell the brand pop up (never sold the brand), along with 2 service centers that closed three years ago. The website help? Good luck with that, the problem that I had has no 'links', so if you plan to use that website, make sure that when you break the snow blower, you break something that has a link to it (lol), because if you don't, forget getting a fix before winter is over. Bottom line, you will NOT be able to talk to anyone. Customer service is non-existent, best thing to do is avoid this brand period, whether it is a snowblower, motorcycle, or a hand held feather duster. Nothing but headaches trying to solve a problem or troubleshoot it.
My experience with Husky customer service leads me to believe that they have no clue, period.
Mine broke as well. Horrible design
I have the ST227 and it’s only going backwards. The plastic console and connectors have broken off. This is a piece of crap snow blower. There are so many design flaws in this product. I will never buy any Husqvarna products again.
Yes it's pretty sad, they did end up upgrading the design, but unfortunately they discontinued the older versions and decided to make a newer model with a metal console. The older plastic versions can't be updated from what I can see.
Cold temperatures and thin plastic just don't get it done...
Husq. had best watch their asses.
Of course they won't warranty it; they KNOW the design is shit.
...a wish for a proper linkage.
SMH..
Thanks for watching!
Old school better.
That's forsure, thanks for watching!
My well kept, 11 yr. old YardMachines is WAY better than that Husq.
Just sayin'..
Yea I don't doubt it lol thanks for watching!
JB Weld
The operator's manual for my ST 224 states' " The sprockets, hex shafts, drive disk and friction wheel require no lubrication. The bearings and bushings are lifetime lubricated and require no maintenance."