Nice! Glad I could help. I used mine twice already with no issues. I'll be using it this weekend and will post another fishing video and feature the tank in action
Yakstar awesome man! I’m ordering all the parts to do the livewell now. Going to make a video for my channel, I’ll give your channel a shout out for the design, going to change it a bit tho. Thanks!
Great idea!!! Where is the outlet for the reservoir? I saw one hose in a bucket below and one line being pumped into the tank. I am thinking the pickup may be thru a scupper hole?? I do apologize but I am wanting to build my own. The primer bulb has a check valve built in it. Thanks
Make sure all connection points are either sealed with silicone or snug with hose clamps. Any air leaks and the primer won't work as intended. You can also try closing the aerator fully and quickly pump the primer to see if water travels pass the check valve. If water starts to flow up the tube slowly open the aerator 1/16 of an inch while priming the system until you find the right opening
Hey buddy, I like the livewell build. Question is, where did you get the primer bulb from and what size did you get. Because all I find is 5/8 size and you use 3/4 id tubing
Love the build man and I actually went the direction you laid out but I’m having issues. I’ll pump the bulb until I hear the aerator start taking over and then when I open the valve a little bit, it stops flowing. I can’t seem to get a continuous flow and I believe I’ve clamped and sealed everything. Got any ideas? Thanks man!
Hey brother love the set up! One question? What size hole did you make to slip spraying into it? I tried the 3/4th but looks a little small. Did you just muscle it?
Yakstar, I'm pretty close to having a successful very similar setup. I'm attempting to make a bait live-well on the cooler on my fishing Sea Doo. I'm having a hard time getting pump primed. Wonder what your thoughts are? My pump is 90 degrees coming out of the bottom traveling horizontal about 6-8 inches then makes a 90 degree turn vertical straight down to the water (4-5 inches) (I do have the "stop valve" as you in your final version. My primer pump has the arrow in the correct direction. I know these pumps are designed to be below the water line. I'm thinking it's to great of a distance before it gets to the water. I was hoping to attach pictures for you to see but I"m not sure I can do that in the comments.
Hey Bunsic1027, send me a few pics, jsupreme23@gmail.com. I'll need to know what type of aerator you are using and the model of your pump. Do you have all connectors sealed properly either by silicon or hose clamps? Priming issues can be related to air leaks and not enough pressure in the lines. If you are using an adjustable aerator, you can try closing the aerator and back out a 1/16 of an inch while pumping the primer bulb. For me, I find that almost having the aerator closed while pumping gives me better results. Once water is flowing you can open up some more and the pump will work as it should after.
I watched yakstar video and it's very good, I built a live well tank 25 years ago in my boat, 30 gal tank, trick was I used a self priming 12 v pump, and all hoses were air tight with ss hose clamps. inlet below with a copper tubing with drilled holes to provide good aeration and current for anchovies, I used a round tank because the chovie like to swim in a circle un obstructed. otherwise they die from damage
So I basically went off your build. I'm having some problems. Once I'm done priming the bulb and I open the spray valve the water does not continuously flow through. I applied the sealant just waiting for it to set in. I did see that there was some areas linking. Hopefully the sealant fixes that. Is there anything else that could be causing the problem? I'm really stressing out over this live well LOL
Hey Quin! Sounds like you are priming while the aerator is completely closed. This works to help get the water up the tube to a certain point. While priming, slowly open the aerator valve until water starts to trickle out. I found that opening the valve just a hair helps get water through the system easier. Now continue priming while opening the aerator a little more until you feel the pump take over. You'll know when to stop when the flow of water starts to increase. The sealant should help alot since any loss of pressure will make priming difficult
Thanks for the great post but I had one question about you moving the check valve down below.... Does that mean there is only one check valve on the entire unit
Yes, that's correct. Only one check valve was used on the entire setup. The primer bulb came with two small check valves and I removed both and just connected the PVC fittings to both ends.
I followed it exactly with the check valve on the bottom under the pump, but my primer isn't pulling in any water. Any suggestions on what might be wrong? I double checked all the clamps and everything is on tight. I was thinking that I may need something on the other side of the primer bulb, but figured I would check here and see if I missed something
since you used the strainer on the outlet how do you keep from sucking up a bitch of grass/rocks and stuff into the pump? did you put some sort of filter on the pump tube?
Good question. I decided not to add a strainer on the input side because I am running the hose through the scupper hole. I didn't want an additional piece hanging below the kayak and risk damaging when dragging the kayak or beach landing / launching. Also, I wanted this to be simple enough to just drop in and remove. With a strainer I would've had to install before launching and some how remove before I beached. I also thought about an inline filter by the tank but since I haven't had any problems it, wasn't a priority. I've gone out a ton already and never had a problem with things getting into the pump and I fished in some serious salad at times
Yakstar: Great video and helped me with some great ideas I was struggling with to build a live well for my unique setup. Couple of questions: 1) the priming bulb, later in the comments you mentioned that the Hobie Primer (discovered after your build) may be the way to go. I can't find that anywhere do you know where to find the Hobie Primer? If I use a primer like you did, is the check valve you ended using (in the new location) the check valve that you removed from the primer or did you by a different check valve? If so what size and recommendation? Great video, Thanks!
I think someone else mentioned the hobie primer in a conversation. I didn't use a hobie primer. If I remember correctly there's a guy selling a kit and called it hobie primer. The link to the check valve I used is in the description. I discarded the check valve that came with the bulb because it was too small. It was meant for fuel.
Check out my page. There's a part 2 video where I show how I installed the switch. I use a 6v battery and the longest I've ran the pump was 10 hours. When I got back home I still had about 70% battery left. How long you run the pump will depend on the type of bait you are using where you live. Anchovies, sardines will need constant water flow so the pump is always on.
@@johnny_cash7588 How many amp hours is the battery rated for? Going to watch the others now. Shiners and bream in Arkansas will be my primary baitfish. I won't even try to keep shad alive.
Did you notice whether or not your check valve has a tight seal? I got the same one and when I hold it vertically, water leaks out of it and I can’t seem to prime the system
Hi sorry for responding so late. Was out of town. The check valve should not be leaking at all. If your connect is tight at both ends and you notice the leak coming from the plastic valve, then the check valve is faulty.
Hi. Both parts are included in the tsunami 500 aerator kit. However, if you're using a different pump you can find both parts at lowe's or home depot in the sprinklers section. The 3/4 threaded coupler csn also be found in plumbing
One more question, when you moved the 1 way valve at the end of the video, what did you use to attach that end of that primer so the it can fit that clear hose that runs to the sprayer? Also was that the hose that came with the kit or dis you have to get a bigger diameter hose? I tried attaching it the male barn but the hose that came with the kit was too small.
@@stroboogy I used the hose that came with the kit. Didn't need to put base a new hose. I just cut a piece of hose to connect the two parts together. The tsunami pump kit comes with the proper hose for attaching all the components. Which pump did you go with?
I got the tsunami kit. The barb part of the 3/4 male connector will fit inside the primer pump but the threaded part of the barb wouldn't fit in the primer pump. Unless you were able to get the threaded side of the barb to fit into the primer pump. The hose would on fit the barb but not the primer itself
Yes 6v straight to the pump. The flow is perfect and keeps bait alive. In all my recent fishing videos, I'm using the bait tank and has been working everytime. 12v is just too powerful for this size tank. Bait will stress and die pretty fast
It does have a drain. I talk about this in the video. There's a strainer that is installed at the water line that drains through a hose that goes into one of the scupper holes
I'm using a 6 volt 10ah battery to slow down the water flow. After about 6-8 hours of fishing with continuous flow, there's about 80% battery available.
@@maddog3467 like months lol. I initially started with a 12v battery and I didn't have to charge it often. I could go 6-7 times out for 6 hours before charging. The pumps don't draw alot of power. 22ah will definitely last a very long time
Hi. I purchased a primer bulb off eBay for about 10 bucks. It came with two 5/16 check valves that I removed. You'll find primer bulbs with different check valve sizes and the 5/16 was the biggest primer bulb I can find. Hope this helps
Hey Al, yes that was one of the reasons why I moved the check valve. I also moved the check valve so it sits vertically instead of horizontal. I noticed when it was in the horizontal position, the valve would not move properly. Water from the tank will slowly reverse back out of the tank. Once I moved it to the bottom, and turned the pump off, the valve falls in place and no water is lost. Then turn the pump back on and water flows without having to primp the bulb.
Just wanted to add that when you remove the check valves that come installed on the primer bulb, you simply stretch the rubber ends over the next adapter. The entire project worked out great. I built another tank for my second kayak and turned out great.
Yeah am in the process of building mine and couldn’t understand why all these videos had the check valve after the pump when the whole reason for that valve is to keep water from backing out of the pump. Trial and error I guess. They do make a primer bulb just for this build on eBay under Hobie primer.
That's my bad. I was planning on making a part 2 showing how to start it up and actually using it. Then the pandemic closed most of the kayak launches around me at the time and I just moved on from it. In my next fishing video I'll spend some time showing how it operates
Clean set up right there. Happen to have the link to the kit ?
Great build! Very nice
Thank you!! Really appreciate it
Love to see it working
awesome man! working on my build now and def got some tips from this!
Nice! Glad I could help. I used mine twice already with no issues. I'll be using it this weekend and will post another fishing video and feature the tank in action
Yakstar awesome man! I’m ordering all the parts to do the livewell now. Going to make a video for my channel, I’ll give your channel a shout out for the design, going to change it a bit tho. Thanks!
Hell yeah! I'll keep an eye out for it, just subbed
Great idea!!! Where is the outlet for the reservoir? I saw one hose in a bucket below and one line being pumped into the tank. I am thinking the pickup may be thru a scupper hole?? I do apologize but I am wanting to build my own. The primer bulb has a check valve built in it.
Thanks
great job Man 👍🏼
Hey thanks for the video. I'm having trouble with the primer bulb not pushing water up the hose. Have you had this problem? Thanks
Make sure all connection points are either sealed with silicone or snug with hose clamps. Any air leaks and the primer won't work as intended. You can also try closing the aerator fully and quickly pump the primer to see if water travels pass the check valve. If water starts to flow up the tube slowly open the aerator 1/16 of an inch while priming the system until you find the right opening
Hey buddy, I like the livewell build. Question is, where did you get the primer bulb from and what size did you get. Because all I find is 5/8 size and you use 3/4 id tubing
Love the build man and I actually went the direction you laid out but I’m having issues. I’ll pump the bulb until I hear the aerator start taking over and then when I open the valve a little bit, it stops flowing. I can’t seem to get a continuous flow and I believe I’ve clamped and sealed everything. Got any ideas? Thanks man!
Hey thanks for the video. I just bought a dog food container on offerup $10 what a come up.
Dang that's a deal. Now the fun begins.
@@johnny_cash7588 yup. Thanks again for the video. Happy fishing
Awsome work, you should show it in action
Hey brother love the set up!
One question? What size hole did you make to slip spraying into it? I tried the 3/4th but looks a little small. Did you just muscle it?
Hey Alex! Forgive me, I don't understand "slip spraying". What part of the project are you referring to?
@@johnny_cash7588 sorry it's the whole that allows the water to enter the tank
@@alexandermorrissey3956 if you're using the attwood aerator, you'll need to drill out a 1 inch hole. It's the aerator I used on my tank
Very cool setup 👍🏼
Excuse the dumb question, but here did you find a primer bulb without the 3/8 barb already clamped into it?
Hey Gabriel! I didn't, I bought a primer with barbs already installed. I removed the barbs and installed the size needed for my setup
Yakstar, I'm pretty close to having a successful very similar setup. I'm attempting to make a bait live-well on the cooler on my fishing Sea Doo. I'm having a hard time getting pump primed. Wonder what your thoughts are? My pump is 90 degrees coming out of the bottom traveling horizontal about 6-8 inches then makes a 90 degree turn vertical straight down to the water (4-5 inches) (I do have the "stop valve" as you in your final version. My primer pump has the arrow in the correct direction. I know these pumps are designed to be below the water line. I'm thinking it's to great of a distance before it gets to the water. I was hoping to attach pictures for you to see but I"m not sure I can do that in the comments.
Hey Bunsic1027, send me a few pics, jsupreme23@gmail.com. I'll need to know what type of aerator you are using and the model of your pump. Do you have all connectors sealed properly either by silicon or hose clamps? Priming issues can be related to air leaks and not enough pressure in the lines. If you are using an adjustable aerator, you can try closing the aerator and back out a 1/16 of an inch while pumping the primer bulb. For me, I find that almost having the aerator closed while pumping gives me better results. Once water is flowing you can open up some more and the pump will work as it should after.
I watched yakstar video and it's very good, I built a live well tank 25 years ago in my boat, 30 gal tank, trick was I used a self priming 12 v pump, and all hoses were air tight with ss hose clamps. inlet below with a copper tubing with drilled holes to provide good aeration and current for anchovies, I used a round tank because the chovie like to swim in a circle un obstructed. otherwise they die from damage
So I basically went off your build. I'm having some problems. Once I'm done priming the bulb and I open the spray valve the water does not continuously flow through. I applied the sealant just waiting for it to set in. I did see that there was some areas linking. Hopefully the sealant fixes that. Is there anything else that could be causing the problem? I'm really stressing out over this live well LOL
Hey Quin! Sounds like you are priming while the aerator is completely closed. This works to help get the water up the tube to a certain point. While priming, slowly open the aerator valve until water starts to trickle out. I found that opening the valve just a hair helps get water through the system easier. Now continue priming while opening the aerator a little more until you feel the pump take over. You'll know when to stop when the flow of water starts to increase. The sealant should help alot since any loss of pressure will make priming difficult
Sick setup brother, im starting my own build...just one question, what are the dimensions for that pet food container?
It's the vittles vault 40 lb dog food container. I believe its 13x14x13 inches. Usually around 30 bucks.
Thanks for the great post but I had one question about you moving the check valve down below.... Does that mean there is only one check valve on the entire unit
Yes, that's correct. Only one check valve was used on the entire setup. The primer bulb came with two small check valves and I removed both and just connected the PVC fittings to both ends.
@@johnny_cash7588 ok awesome! yeah that's what I figured and thanks I def took a few pointers from the video and I'll be out in La Jolla in no time!!
I followed it exactly with the check valve on the bottom under the pump, but my primer isn't pulling in any water. Any suggestions on what might be wrong? I double checked all the clamps and everything is on tight. I was thinking that I may need something on the other side of the primer bulb, but figured I would check here and see if I missed something
since you used the strainer on the outlet how do you keep from sucking up a bitch of grass/rocks and stuff into the pump? did you put some sort of filter on the pump tube?
Good question. I decided not to add a strainer on the input side because I am running the hose through the scupper hole. I didn't want an additional piece hanging below the kayak and risk damaging when dragging the kayak or beach landing / launching. Also, I wanted this to be simple enough to just drop in and remove. With a strainer I would've had to install before launching and some how remove before I beached. I also thought about an inline filter by the tank but since I haven't had any problems it, wasn't a priority. I've gone out a ton already and never had a problem with things getting into the pump and I fished in some serious salad at times
Yakstar: Great video and helped me with some great ideas I was struggling with to build a live well for my unique setup. Couple of questions: 1) the priming bulb, later in the comments you mentioned that the Hobie Primer (discovered after your build) may be the way to go. I can't find that anywhere do you know where to find the Hobie Primer? If I use a primer like you did, is the check valve you ended using (in the new location) the check valve that you removed from the primer or did you by a different check valve? If so what size and recommendation? Great video, Thanks!
I think someone else mentioned the hobie primer in a conversation. I didn't use a hobie primer. If I remember correctly there's a guy selling a kit and called it hobie primer. The link to the check valve I used is in the description. I discarded the check valve that came with the bulb because it was too small. It was meant for fuel.
@@johnny_cash7588 Thank you! All of this was a big help
@@johnny_cash7588 Hobie primer: www.ebay.com/itm/274735075467?chn=ps&var=574957297866&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=574957297866_274735075467&targetid=1267597157755&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031336&poi=&campaignid=11616960373&mkgroupid=121772279509&rlsatarget=pla-1267597157755&abcId=9300455&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAjwn6GGBhADEiwAruUcKomm83YddIEVIPIeABQqE9DqYdSo1BzBhsWtLL-YEOr1YE-eDkecyxoCbXUQAvD_BwE
Did you add a switch or just connect directly?
Do you need a fuse?
How long and how often do you run it? You don't need to run it constantly do you?
Check out my page. There's a part 2 video where I show how I installed the switch. I use a 6v battery and the longest I've ran the pump was 10 hours. When I got back home I still had about 70% battery left. How long you run the pump will depend on the type of bait you are using where you live. Anchovies, sardines will need constant water flow so the pump is always on.
@@johnny_cash7588 How many amp hours is the battery rated for?
Going to watch the others now.
Shiners and bream in Arkansas will be my primary baitfish. I won't even try to keep shad alive.
@@weedeater64 it's a 6v10ah cost about 20 bucks
Did you notice whether or not your check valve has a tight seal? I got the same one and when I hold it vertically, water leaks out of it and I can’t seem to prime the system
Hi sorry for responding so late. Was out of town. The check valve should not be leaking at all. If your connect is tight at both ends and you notice the leak coming from the plastic valve, then the check valve is faulty.
Nice video! Question, I cant fint the 3/4 female to female pvc threaded coupler nor can I find the Male 3/4 90 degree barb. Where did you find both?
Hi. Both parts are included in the tsunami 500 aerator kit. However, if you're using a different pump you can find both parts at lowe's or home depot in the sprinklers section. The 3/4 threaded coupler csn also be found in plumbing
One more question, when you moved the 1 way valve at the end of the video, what did you use to attach that end of that primer so the it can fit that clear hose that runs to the sprayer? Also was that the hose that came with the kit or dis you have to get a bigger diameter hose? I tried attaching it the male barn but the hose that came with the kit was too small.
@@stroboogy I used the hose that came with the kit. Didn't need to put base a new hose. I just cut a piece of hose to connect the two parts together. The tsunami pump kit comes with the proper hose for attaching all the components. Which pump did you go with?
I got the tsunami kit. The barb part of the 3/4 male connector will fit inside the primer pump but the threaded part of the barb wouldn't fit in the primer pump. Unless you were able to get the threaded side of the barb to fit into the primer pump. The hose would on fit the barb but not the primer itself
Too bad we cant post pictures in the comments
Did run the 6v battery straight to the pump without any problems?
Yes 6v straight to the pump. The flow is perfect and keeps bait alive. In all my recent fishing videos, I'm using the bait tank and has been working everytime. 12v is just too powerful for this size tank. Bait will stress and die pretty fast
Does it not need a drain for water level?
It does have a drain. I talk about this in the video. There's a strainer that is installed at the water line that drains through a hose that goes into one of the scupper holes
@@johnny_cash7588 thanks! Not sure how I missed that. Best set up on UA-cam!! Making one this week
Where can I order the 3/4 primer bulb? I only see Atwood sells a 3/8 and 5/16
3/4 is for the fittings. I purchased 5/16 primer bulb off of eBay.
What would you charge someone to make one for them
You should make and sell em, is purchase one instantly
How long does the battery last with continuous use
I'm using a 6 volt 10ah battery to slow down the water flow. After about 6-8 hours of fishing with continuous flow, there's about 80% battery available.
How long would a 12v 22ah batter last
@@maddog3467 like months lol. I initially started with a 12v battery and I didn't have to charge it often. I could go 6-7 times out for 6 hours before charging. The pumps don't draw alot of power. 22ah will definitely last a very long time
I will be running a sounder and some nav lights aswell though
@@maddog3467 at least a full weekend of fishing for sure
Hi. What size primer bulb pump is that? Thanks
Hi. I purchased a primer bulb off eBay for about 10 bucks. It came with two 5/16 check valves that I removed. You'll find primer bulbs with different check valve sizes and the 5/16 was the biggest primer bulb I can find. Hope this helps
Ok that was my question too. That’s prob why you had to move the check valve because you remove the ones out of the bulb, got it. Good job👍🏼👊🏼
Hey Al, yes that was one of the reasons why I moved the check valve. I also moved the check valve so it sits vertically instead of horizontal. I noticed when it was in the horizontal position, the valve would not move properly. Water from the tank will slowly reverse back out of the tank. Once I moved it to the bottom, and turned the pump off, the valve falls in place and no water is lost. Then turn the pump back on and water flows without having to primp the bulb.
Just wanted to add that when you remove the check valves that come installed on the primer bulb, you simply stretch the rubber ends over the next adapter. The entire project worked out great. I built another tank for my second kayak and turned out great.
Yeah am in the process of building mine and couldn’t understand why all these videos had the check valve after the pump when the whole reason for that valve is to keep water from backing out of the pump. Trial and error I guess. They do make a primer bulb just for this build on eBay under Hobie primer.
lol that black gonna heat up so bad.
Take a shot everytime he says silicone ...
Would u be interested to build/sell one?
yanks
You can't build something and not show it working at the end! 😉
That's my bad. I was planning on making a part 2 showing how to start it up and actually using it. Then the pandemic closed most of the kayak launches around me at the time and I just moved on from it. In my next fishing video I'll spend some time showing how it operates