There is a lot to unpack with this video so please ask me questions below! I wanted to make a basic guide to laser cutter setup. Is there anything that is missing or that I left out?
Great video and adding this to the list of videos to rewatch once I get my machine built to get it in tip-top shape. Thank you for creating these videos!
Just like the others already commenting, Great video... Great way to show all the tests we can/should do to ensure the most out of the equipment. A few of these I had not even seen before. Really well thought out. THANKS!
Thx for the awesome content,very much appreciated as I am going to build a laser in the near future and haven’t found a good video about setting up right - until now 👍🏼
Hi A.C. -- thanks for putting out this calibration video, I appreciate all of the tests you've compiled. I've also built a Y-400 and am interested in the X,Y,Z speeds and accelerations you landed on. I'm getting good cutting accuracy by my scanning needs improvement and I'd like to know if I'm in the right ballpark!
@@acwrightdesign Thanks for the reply -- would you mind sharing the speeds and accels you ended up with? That would really help me know what to shoot for!
Wow!!! As previous stated "GREAT VIDEO! I have question regarding the backlash test when you pulled the paper off the machine, there were 3 dots you pulsed the machine once where did that "middle dot come from?
Great video!! -- one small question. what solution are you using in the sponges? I bought some with your link just now. Just wondering if it's water or something else. Also saw you using it on the Beer Caddy video. thanks millions!!
WOW! I'm impressed how many stuff is going on the physics and never thought that need to do way more much then think. Amazing job, amazing passion and amazing small stuff which improve thinking again, what scince can do. Well done! Thanks for share Your silence toughts :)
Thanks! IDK, unfortunately I don't have a diode laser so I can't speak from experience. I do know that diode lasers work with Lightburn so the same Lightburn workflows apply.
Hello. I've really been struggling with the laser alignment and absolutely love how you do it here. I want to order one of the always on lasers. My 3d printer is currently down so I guess my question is: would you be willing to ship me a set of the brackets you made or where did you buy them? As well as the target. Thank you! I've been watching a lot of your videos. They are super helpful
If you are talking about the blue target holders, I 3D printed them. There is a link to the files in the description on my Thingiverse page. The targets were made using a printer and a Circuit machine. The files for the targets are also on my Thingiverse. I do not currently print and ship items but I know there are sites online where you can get 3D prints. Good luck with your laser alignment. It can be a struggle but keep making small adjustments and you will get it! Make sure to watch Further Fabrications alignment video. It is really good!
This is a great video that help me a lot. I want to do cut test and find your lightburn file in Thingiverse. I saw that you set color blue on first row mean each square in that row will have same speed and power setting? Thanks
Thanks! I assume you are referring to the engrave test? In Lightburn you can set different power scales for the same color/row by going to the Shape Properties tab.
wow thats a lot of good information, will you be doing anything that slow explains the different tuning steps, how to get to those settings in lightburn and such
Thanks! I probably won't do tutorials on Lightburn since their YT channel has a bunch of in-depth tutorials on the software already. I am planning on doing a general FAQ video at some point so if you have a question for that video let me know!
@@acwrightdesign im a little confused about the acceleration one, it was overshooting the bed area i got that, but you changed it from 1.5 million something to 8 million something and it stopped overshooting. That part i got confused about
I have downloaded your test files. Both the Cut and Engrave tests have the same power levels for all the blocks on the Speed row. How does it reduce the power level?
1. At the engrave power test how do you handle the percent? I just see that each layer has its own speed, but I can't see the power settings in LB. 2. From the cut test what info do you have? Clear that the left bottom corner is not OK. But all the rest are OK. Will you use the max power with max speed? Or is there any differences at burned edges?
1. The settings are in the "Shape Properties" tab in Lightburn. You can set a different percent of the total power for each shape. 2. The cut test will turn out differently in different materials. Although I didn't film it at the time of the video I have found materials where the same settings do not cut the whole grid. And yes, it does help to see how burnt each square turns out to be. I usually pick something with good speed but not too burnt.
My Z axis homes when the machine turns on. My controller settings are very "stock" except for the motor control parameters which will vary based on your motor configuration.
I'm not familiar with that machine... I use Lightburn for my laser control so if that machine can use LIghtburn I would say yes. I would be careful to check the power settings and make sure they are appropriate for your machine. Congrats on the new machine!
Yes I did. I have not used it to align all of the mirrors but it was useful for aligning the third mirror in the nozzle. It is really helpful for making sure the beam is coming straight down the middle of the nozzle.
Thanks for this informative video. And also the files on thingyverse. I am trying to make my own version of this for our new 60watt laser and i am wondering how you managed to do so many different settings with a small amount of layers in lightburn
Thanks! Check out the "Shape Properties" tab in Lightburn. You can set a Power Scale for each shape which allows you to cut/engrave the shape at a different power setting.
@@acwrightdesign Thanks so much that is so helpful. Im very new to this so excuse my stupid question. Unfortunately ive been forced into lock down for a month so someone on site will have to do the work for me :)
I believe I may have increased the current slightly but otherwise, it is the same as the build docs specify. Make sure your Z-axis is running smoothly and freely and not binding. This is the biggest issue I had. I had to reseat the bearings in the pillow blocks and loosen all the blocks and then re-tighten. If it is binding in any way keep working on it!
@@acwrightdesign I did figure it out. Your lines do not seem to be perpendicular to each other. There is a slight slant to the vertical and horizontal lines.
I am trying to perform the Focus test but little confused about the initial distance of head in relation to the focus test settings. How far should i set head from material?
It depends on your laser head and lens size. Try doing a ramp test or just fire some shots at different distances. For a 50.8mm lens and the Cloudray head (like mine) it is around 5mm but you really need to experiment to find out.
There is no single or best avarage setting for the reverse scanning offset. You need to calibrate the offset for EVERY speed you intend to scan at. This is not a proportional scalling system, If you set an offset for 400mm/s it will not work for 399mm/s or 401mm/s because this is a simple lookup table system .
This is good advice! I have set my offsets for the scanning speed I always use so I don't need to change them. I love your channel btw! Thanks for all the great videos!
When I press the right arrow on my ruida controller, the laser head moves in the - y direction and vice versa. When I press on the up arrow the gentry moves in the -x direction. How do I fix this issue? The same issue happens when I try to move the laser head on lightburn as well. I feel like this may be a sinple fix but I habe no idea how to resolve, would you have any idea? Thank you.
@@acwrightdesign appreciate your feedback, got it all fixed now... I have yet another issue, when I run a job on light burn and send it to the laser cutter the job appears to be on the bed in the software but when the laser head starts moving it seems to go its own direction and runs right through the limit switches. Would you happen to have any idea what could be going wrong?
@@charlesraimondo3761 Check the origin point in Lightburn. Maybe it is set to absolute origin? If it is set to user origin did you push the origin button on the Ruida before starting the job to set the origin point?
@@acwrightdesign My origin point is set to top left. when its in user origin mode and If I press the origin button on the ruida controller nothing happens.
@@charlesraimondo3761 I should just beep. That is all that happens. But then the origin point for the job (indicated by a green square in Lightburn) is set.
@@urjnlegend Just learning how to align the laser. The build was really manageable. My 3D printer and CNC machine cause me more trouble than this thing ever have and they were built by legit companies.
Doing the X-Y Step Length calibration by cutting out a square and checking the outside measurements with calipers is not 100% correct! This because you forget about the cutting width of the laser (kerf). You can get a correct measurement by taking the average of the hole inside width and the square outside width. It's always best to the calibrate by engraving and measuring the center to center distance of two lines. The accuracy of the calibration can be improved by placing the two lines as far apart as possible.
There is a lot to unpack with this video so please ask me questions below! I wanted to make a basic guide to laser cutter setup. Is there anything that is missing or that I left out?
I was worried until you remembered the fan…
@@tinadahl9875 Close call! :)
amazing
Ay have no idea Why I am watching this and how it somehow is so satisfying
Thanks!
just getting my first desktop laser and this video helps a lot understanding the tuning it may need..thank you
Glad you found it useful! Good luck with your laser
Great video and adding this to the list of videos to rewatch once I get my machine built to get it in tip-top shape. Thank you for creating these videos!
Awesome, thank you!
Just like the others already commenting, Great video... Great way to show all the tests we can/should do to ensure the most out of the equipment. A few of these I had not even seen before. Really well thought out. THANKS!
Thank you!
Thx for the awesome content,very much appreciated as I am going to build a laser in the near future and haven’t found a good video about setting up right - until now 👍🏼
Thanks! Good luck with your build!
Here we go again ...man great content and info and great video/edit quality ;)
Thank you for the nice comments!
Hi A.C. -- thanks for putting out this calibration video, I appreciate all of the tests you've compiled. I've also built a Y-400 and am interested in the X,Y,Z speeds and accelerations you landed on. I'm getting good cutting accuracy by my scanning needs improvement and I'd like to know if I'm in the right ballpark!
Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful!
@@acwrightdesign Thanks for the reply -- would you mind sharing the speeds and accels you ended up with? That would really help me know what to shoot for!
Wow!!! As previous stated "GREAT VIDEO! I have question regarding the backlash test when you pulled the paper off the machine, there were 3 dots you pulsed the machine once where did that "middle dot come from?
I can't remember exactly but I think I just made a mistake and accidentally pulsed the laser.
Great video!! -- one small question. what solution are you using in the sponges? I bought some with your link just now. Just wondering if it's water or something else. Also saw you using it on the Beer Caddy video. thanks millions!!
Thanks! Yeah I found just water works best but only slightly damp.
What do you call the laser plug for aligning the 3rd mirror? Never seen one before. Where can I buy one? Great video. Thanks
Thanks! That is the alignment tool from American Photonics: american-photonics.myshopify.com/products/k40-reverse-laser-alignment-nut
@@acwrightdesign Thanks so much! Keep up the good work.
i would like to see how if you adjust the max power on the laser. you know adjust that 100% dont go over the current max?
I basically just test fired the laser going from low power to higher power and watched the ammeter. Then I set this as the power max.
WOW! I'm impressed how many stuff is going on the physics and never thought that need to do way more much then think. Amazing job, amazing passion and amazing small stuff which improve thinking again, what scince can do. Well done! Thanks for share Your silence toughts :)
Thank you!
Wonderful video! I just recently purchased a diode laser, could some of the adjustment you show be applied to a diode laser as well?
Thanks! IDK, unfortunately I don't have a diode laser so I can't speak from experience. I do know that diode lasers work with Lightburn so the same Lightburn workflows apply.
Why did you use the offset during the focus test? Is that the material thickness?
Wow, I learned so much. Guess I should spend a little more time understanding how to tweak settings on Lightburn. Thank you sir, Have a Great week.
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have a link to the crosshair inserts you used for the alignment?
Yep! They are here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750178/files
Great video, i will be using this as well when i get my laser setup. thanks for you work on this.
Thanks!
Hello. I've really been struggling with the laser alignment and absolutely love how you do it here. I want to order one of the always on lasers. My 3d printer is currently down so I guess my question is: would you be willing to ship me a set of the brackets you made or where did you buy them? As well as the target. Thank you! I've been watching a lot of your videos. They are super helpful
If you are talking about the blue target holders, I 3D printed them. There is a link to the files in the description on my Thingiverse page. The targets were made using a printer and a Circuit machine. The files for the targets are also on my Thingiverse. I do not currently print and ship items but I know there are sites online where you can get 3D prints. Good luck with your laser alignment. It can be a struggle but keep making small adjustments and you will get it! Make sure to watch Further Fabrications alignment video. It is really good!
This is a great video that help me a lot. I want to do cut test and find your lightburn file in Thingiverse. I saw that you set color blue on first row mean each square in that row will have same speed and power setting? Thanks
Thanks! I assume you are referring to the engrave test? In Lightburn you can set different power scales for the same color/row by going to the Shape Properties tab.
@@acwrightdesign got it understood. Again, thanks so much for your video.
This was a great watch! xD I'm getting a new smaller laser cutter and this video will come in handy when I need it. xD Keep up the amazing videos. xD
Thank you! Good luck with your laser cutter!
wow thats a lot of good information, will you be doing anything that slow explains the different tuning steps, how to get to those settings in lightburn and such
Thanks! I probably won't do tutorials on Lightburn since their YT channel has a bunch of in-depth tutorials on the software already. I am planning on doing a general FAQ video at some point so if you have a question for that video let me know!
@@acwrightdesign awesome, ive used lb for my diode laser and not even messed with any of the settings you play with here
@@acwrightdesign im a little confused about the acceleration one, it was overshooting the bed area i got that, but you changed it from 1.5 million something to 8 million something and it stopped overshooting. That part i got confused about
I have downloaded your test files. Both the Cut and Engrave tests have the same power levels for all the blocks on the Speed row. How does it reduce the power level?
Never mind, figured it out. New to LightBurn!
@@bobmarino2357 I'm glad you figured it out! I have had this question before about Lightburn and I should have made it clearer in the video!
@@acwrightdesign also new in LB, didn't figure it out yet...
1. At the engrave power test how do you handle the percent? I just see that each layer has its own speed, but I can't see the power settings in LB.
2. From the cut test what info do you have? Clear that the left bottom corner is not OK. But all the rest are OK. Will you use the max power with max speed? Or is there any differences at burned edges?
1. The settings are in the "Shape Properties" tab in Lightburn. You can set a different percent of the total power for each shape.
2. The cut test will turn out differently in different materials. Although I didn't film it at the time of the video I have found materials where the same settings do not cut the whole grid. And yes, it does help to see how burnt each square turns out to be. I usually pick something with good speed but not too burnt.
What kind of air assist do you use, the cuts are so clean?
I am using an air compressor with a solenoid valve. Check out my video on the Ultimate Air Assist kit.
What thickness of MDF did you use for this??? Great video with so much information!!
Thank you! I used 3mm (or 1/8") MDF
great video
Thank you!
how do you have your z axis setup? does it home when you power up the machine? want to part with your controller setup config's?
My Z axis homes when the machine turns on. My controller settings are very "stock" except for the motor control parameters which will vary based on your motor configuration.
@@acwrightdesign ya i got the bed to go down when i home, but i cant move the bed to the nozzle.
Can i use these test files for my Sculpfun S9? I get it tomorrow :)
I'm not familiar with that machine... I use Lightburn for my laser control so if that machine can use LIghtburn I would say yes. I would be careful to check the power settings and make sure they are appropriate for your machine. Congrats on the new machine!
@@acwrightdesign thank you yes it can use light burn it has a 90 diode with 5.5w output
@@acwrightdesign as for the acceleration test im not sure if it can do the speeds your using
@@stevemichael8186 Yeah you may have to adjust the test for your specs
Hi I am building the 1200x 600 version and I see you are using the photonics laser for setting up the mirrors did you find it of any benefit?
Yes I did. I have not used it to align all of the mirrors but it was useful for aligning the third mirror in the nozzle. It is really helpful for making sure the beam is coming straight down the middle of the nozzle.
Thanks for this informative video. And also the files on thingyverse. I am trying to make my own version of this for our new 60watt laser and i am wondering how you managed to do so many different settings with a small amount of layers in lightburn
specifically cut test and engrave test
Thanks! Check out the "Shape Properties" tab in Lightburn. You can set a Power Scale for each shape which allows you to cut/engrave the shape at a different power setting.
@@acwrightdesign Thanks so much that is so helpful. Im very new to this so excuse my stupid question.
Unfortunately ive been forced into lock down for a month so someone on site will have to do the work for me :)
@@TheTimaffleck There are no dumb questions. Good luck with your project! :)
@@acwrightdesign that just blew my mind
What do you have your Z axis set at on the stepper driver? I cant get mine to work correctly thank you
I believe I may have increased the current slightly but otherwise, it is the same as the build docs specify. Make sure your Z-axis is running smoothly and freely and not binding. This is the biggest issue I had. I had to reseat the bearings in the pillow blocks and loosen all the blocks and then re-tighten. If it is binding in any way keep working on it!
I tried you backlash test. My pulse is ending up on the right side of the line. How do i move to the left?
This is curious... I'm not exactly sure what to suggest. Did you figure this out?
@@acwrightdesign I did figure it out. Your lines do not seem to be perpendicular to each other. There is a slight slant to the vertical and horizontal lines.
I am trying to perform the Focus test but little confused about the initial distance of head in relation to the focus test settings. How far should i set head from material?
It depends on your laser head and lens size. Try doing a ramp test or just fire some shots at different distances. For a 50.8mm lens and the Cloudray head (like mine) it is around 5mm but you really need to experiment to find out.
@@acwrightdesign Thanks, I'm using a StartNow head with a F50.8. I will try a ramp test.
thanks man very helpful !
No problem!
Bro Which software you are using?
Lightburn
What are you using for the test material?
It is 3mm 1/8"() MDF or plywood
There is no single or best avarage setting for the reverse scanning offset. You need to calibrate the offset for EVERY speed you intend to scan at. This is not a proportional scalling system, If you set an offset for 400mm/s it will not work for 399mm/s or 401mm/s because this is a simple lookup table system .
This is good advice! I have set my offsets for the scanning speed I always use so I don't need to change them. I love your channel btw! Thanks for all the great videos!
When I press the right arrow on my ruida controller, the laser head moves in the - y direction and vice versa. When I press on the up arrow the gentry moves in the -x direction. How do I fix this issue? The same issue happens when I try to move the laser head on lightburn as well. I feel like this may be a sinple fix but I habe no idea how to resolve, would you have any idea? Thank you.
My guess is that you have the stepper motor drivers wired to the wrong inputs on the Ruida. Double check your wiring!
@@acwrightdesign appreciate your feedback, got it all fixed now... I have yet another issue, when I run a job on light burn and send it to the laser cutter the job appears to be on the bed in the software but when the laser head starts moving it seems to go its own direction and runs right through the limit switches. Would you happen to have any idea what could be going wrong?
@@charlesraimondo3761 Check the origin point in Lightburn. Maybe it is set to absolute origin? If it is set to user origin did you push the origin button on the Ruida before starting the job to set the origin point?
@@acwrightdesign My origin point is set to top left. when its in user origin mode and If I press the origin button on the ruida controller nothing happens.
@@charlesraimondo3761 I should just beep. That is all that happens. But then the origin point for the job (indicated by a green square in Lightburn) is set.
awesome!
Thanks!
I dont have Machine settings, why?
The basic machine settings are include from Further Fabrication when you buy the plans for this laser from his channel.
How much did that cost to make?
The laser? I didn't keep perfect track of dollars but roughly $1500
@@acwrightdesign that's do-able, for a custom machine, what would you say the hardest part was?
@@urjnlegend Just learning how to align the laser. The build was really manageable. My 3D printer and CNC machine cause me more trouble than this thing ever have and they were built by legit companies.
تم الاشتراك ، معلومات مهمه
Thank you!
Doing the X-Y Step Length calibration by cutting out a square and checking the outside measurements with calipers is not 100% correct! This because you forget about the cutting width of the laser (kerf). You can get a correct measurement by taking the average of the hole inside width and the square outside width.
It's always best to the calibrate by engraving and measuring the center to center distance of two lines. The accuracy of the calibration can be improved by placing the two lines as far apart as possible.
Thank you for this tip! You are 100% correct!
u best
EXEPTIONEL
Thank you!
No
Yes