Audi TT rear brake caliper rebuild guide
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- Brakes are safety critical. This guide is not exhaustive and if you aren't competent, don't mess with your brakes!
This kit was sourced from www.biggred.co.uk
***For booking enquiries email bookings@bwstt.co.uk
***If this video has saved you a trip to your local garage, and you'd like to buy me a drink to say thankyou, then feel free to send me a donation to paypal.me/bwst...
Great video. I'd read forum posts saying these aren't DIY serviceable, glad to see that's not the case.
Good video and info for anyone wanting to replace the piston and seals.
It would have been great if you had shown the removal of the cir-clip with the special pliers and the reassembly with the new O- ring as that is what is needed for a full rebuild.
Thanks.
fastestfazer yeah trying to video the circlip removal was quite tricky, so i didnt manage that this time around
Yeah, I appreciate the work you put in to make the video and the circlip removal / refitting would be tricky to film, having stripped a few calipers of this design, I know they are fiddly.
The internal O-ring shown on the handbrake mechanism @ 3:57 is very important and should be replaced as it wears with handbrake use, if it fails a lot of fluid will leak out through the handbrake shaft every time the brake pedal is pressed.
A note to anyone thinking of refurbishing this type of caliper:
By the time you notice a problem it's normally too late to make a lasting refurbishment.
The shaft of the handbrake mechanism is normally badly corroded and pitted. The housing at the rear of the caliper that holds the "Top hat" seal to protect the shaft has often corroded away so the new seal won't sit correctly or securely.
All things considered, in most cases it's probably better to buy a replacement caliper which are less than £50. (ebay)
Thanks.
good video, man. thanks for taking the time to make it. it has helped me out more than once.
Thanks for the vid. I now know I’ll be getting a mechanic to take this on if it is needed. Fun to watch though.
Would definitely recommend cleaning it spotless, you can’t afford grit inside.
The piston has to be immaculately spotless.
You’ll also want rubber grease on all the new rubber inner faces meeting metal.
Much like dark colours heatsoak they also dissipate heat best too. Bright colours reflect heat and trap it - not good for callipers. Bare metal even less hassle.
Handy video to show the steps and confirm tools needed. 👍 Maybe worth using a cheap tripod (a flexible gorilla) for the camera/phone.
It’s presumably similar across all Mk1, 2 and 3.
Helpful, looks similar to my Peugeot 308 rear calliper. I followed same basic procedure to remove piston and replace main seal. I used the silicon grease supplied to lubricate the piston/seals. Only replaced calliper, as current calliper seems to be lazy, dragging so got a cheap for £12 from ebay, replaced the main seals just in case.
Hi Brin, trying to get that circlip out my rear calipers and am having no joy. I have circlip pliers but I don't know if you need special ones as they are just not fitting/doing the job. Struggling to even get them in as the pliers handles are fouling on the caliper body where the mounting holes are. Any ideas ?
Hey its Raja great selection of vid guides bud!
Hey Mate. Great video. Just dropped my calipers off to be overahuled. Wish I'd wached your video first. Next time!
I should've added I have the piston out and am trying to remove the housing it sits in.
What did you clean the nice shiny caliper with ?
I'm tempted to buy you a tripod too :)
Marc Tuohey I used a paint removal discs in my drill for the pre painted caliper, it got rid of the worst of it. I've considered a tripod, but that would involve way too much planning as to where stuff is and where I put my hands- I just need an assistant really
Great vid thanks!
Mine is leaking from the handbrake assembly. Is there only the one seal behind that 13mm nut?
Your video shows the o-ring on the piston assembly.. are there any other o-rings when you take the handbrake spindle out? Don't suppose you've got any pics of the handbrake spindle and how you get it out?
Cheers
Very nice I'm about to rebuild a set of b5 s4 hp2 calipers myself for my b6 a4
Hey man, I saw the post about you channel on the TT forums, I was just wondering if you could do a rebuilding of the front brake callipers as I have some I need to have done/do in the up and coming weeks, cheers and love the channel man!
JoshsPOV not got any standard Calipers at present, but if I can get hold of one then I'll do a strip down and rebuild video
If your piston won't wind back in (well it will but its effing tight) will this rebuild solve that? The external seals are in tact and it looks clean inside.
Yeah, once refurbed rewinding is low effort
Please could you link to the tool you used to get that caliper so clean? Cheers
nice video , many thanks.
by the way i did remove the caliper from my opel meriva( exactly same design) . i pumped the brake while the hose was still connected to caliper to push out the piston. and i found the inner circlip and assembly (4:01) was broken!! is it possible that this happened during removal???
many thanks
What kind of grease would be suitable at the end of the internal assembly (6:40) for the piston ?
Caliper bracket. What size star bit do i need? Currently changing my pads and rotors but my new rotors wont come on like the old ones came off 😅
The star bolt that connects the bracket to the car
My rear caliper is leaking from behind the handbrake assembly.. can i just take it off and replace that o-ring or is there more to it than just popping it off and throwing a new one in
The internal one has to be leaking for it to come out there , so full strip down required
Hi. Nice video. My problem is that i can't screw the piston in again. it comes like 1/3 in and then it get stuck. Is there anything i can do to get it to work?
Michael Wroblewski have you disassembled, or is that just on the car as part of a pad change?
Hi - I've got an A2 with pretty much the same rear brake setup (though might be smaller not sure?). Bought a set of circlip pliers from ebay but they are too thick to fit to the bottom of the caliper to get the . What do you suggest? I've got a set with a right angle bend but dont mind what i use just would like to get the calipers to pieces to clean and replace the O ring. Cheers
Choo-chop ive not worked on the smaller calipers, its tight with my tool on the TT 38mm pistons, so not sure what tool to advise, sorry
Merci pour t vidéo
Has any one used a good replacment caliper?
Can the parking brake level mechanism be "rebuilt"... I have one that won't return to the rest position (off) by itself; i.e. It doesn't spring back...Or...Is it best to just get a new rear caliper
K03sport the parking brake part of the assembly is all to do with how well the piston itself moves- if the piston is sticking it wont self return properly
The rear brake caliper to change the o'ring on the axle of the handbrake because it drains the oil. This video is interesting to me, but nobody has set it up.
Great video, but complete brake calipers are not that expensive. Makes the job much easier ;)
They've definitely got cheaper over the years, and I too now opt for replacement over repair
I would lubricate the seals and the piston with special grease.
Dmytro Bogdanov yes on final assembly I used the grease that comes with the kit, forgot to mention it in video thanks for reminding me though
Hi, well done for the video. Do you have an idea why the handbrake lever on one of my calipers has more movement before the brakes start to grip? If I take off my cables I can push the levers with my hands and block the wheels. On the left caliper I can measure around 3mm of movement before it bites, on the right I have 4mm. It won't seem to adjust no matter how many times I activate the lever.
Thanks
Dave Fuchs both rebuilt? Or both old?
Both old. I started by changing the pads. I was able to wind the pistons in with an ordinary pair of long nose pliers, but I noticed the right one needed more force. This made no difference to the braking. When I bought the car, the right hand brake was sticking due to a corroded cable, don't know if that could be a clue.
Dave Fuchs the way the calipers work is that as the lads wear out the pistons wind out and stay out, so that the handbrake cable doesn’t need adjusting. If one is stiffer to move then it will be staying further out- so I’m guessing the one that moves more is the one that Wound back easier? Anyway, I wouldn’t worry about it too much as long as they both come on properly under braking and handbrake application
That's the problem, when the handbrake is pulled it blocks the left wheel well before the right, and it failed mot because of that. My understanding was that as the cylinders come out (I don't think they wind out but you need to wind them back in), the handbrake part has to self adjust so that the lever moves the same amount. Looks like I'll have to take it apart and see.
Dave Fuchs the one that isn’t coming on is going to need stripping and rebuilding more than likely
Mega filmik 😀👍 Like
Zapraszamy do nas 🌹👍
Br k203843
Great Video Thx so much