Hey those ARE multi piece wheels. Guys argue over what is called split rim , split ring etc. But these split in the center of the rim, these are what's called widowmakers! Use extreme caution working on these including mounting dismounting or inflating. The fronts would blow inward and maybe damage the truck while making you mess your pants. The rears the joint is under that band around the circumference of the inside of the wheel, it would blow outwards and it wouldn't scare you. You'd be gone and never feel a thing. Deflate them before doing much to them! And use a cage and one of those clamp on chucks to inflate. Be careful.
There is a 1967 C50 in my dad's yard. I believe I still have the owner manual. In '67, the engine choices were two inline sixes, the 250 and 292, two small-blocks, the 283 and the 327, and a big block 366. The transmission choices were auto 4 speed with hydraulic retarder, 4 speed Chevrolet and New Process, 5 speed Clark, New Process and Spicer, and 5+4 spicers. Rear axles were available with vacuum shift two speeds. There's a bunch of info I don't have on top of my head but I kept that book somewhere and Its not going to the trash.
You need to be using impact sockets on that impact. Regular sockets can blow up unexpectedly and cause serious injuries. Especially those horror freight ones.
I've got the big, lumbering 305 V6 in my '69 GMC. Since I've got it I've been thinking about all the things that you're experiencing with brakes and those rims and the axles and the whole thing I'm pretty convinced the best thing to do would be to replace all of it but I really don't want to it's got 86,000 original miles. I think I've got the same wheelbase as your rig. Seems like when I see them, they usually have that longer wheelbase on grain trucks and things
Interesting. My 70 C50 has split-ring bud wheels. I've never seen a 70 with split rims. I think people get Split rims confused with 2 piece Slit ring (a wheel and a ring) and 3 piece Slit ring-lock ring wheels(a wheel with a slit ring and a safety ring). And of course, there is the 2-piece rim. 2 piece and split rims are rarely seen anymore. The most dangerous wheel I've ever seen is the old split rim. The old split rims were dayton style wheels. They literally had a diagonal slit/separation across the wheel and were held together with a ring. They were tube-type, with an inner flap to protect the tube. I saw one of these split rims come apart back in the 60s, while a tire guy was putting air in the tire. The ring took the top of his head off right at his eyebrows. Wheels have improved over the years. Split rim to the split ring, to the split ring, safety ring. Progressively less dangerous. And now the safest solid Dayton or Budd-style tubeless wheel. I've talked to tire men that really didn't know what a real split rim was. Probably because they had never seen one!!! I didn't start driving big trucks until 65. 1965.
The big block V6 engines in those old trucks were usually 305 C.I.. Terrible fuel mileage and not as strong and dependable as a V8. I had one. My 70 - C50 had a 292 straight 6. Good dependable high mileage engine, but a little weak. I built a 350 and replaced the straight 6. Very happy with the fuel mileage and performance.
Yep. You have split RING budd style rims. Not split rims!!! Not totally safe. They should be worked on inside a tire cage, totally deflated! And there's a good chance of distorting/gaulding the threads on the lug nuts and studs when you use a torch!!! Increasing the odds of stripping the threads out. If a tire guy wanted to piss me off all he had to do was take a torch to my lug nuts!!! I knew it meant trouble down the road!!! I'll share a little secret with you about removing the brake drum. You almost had it right. Put a pry/crowbar between the backing plate and the drum, pull out/toward you as hard as you can without bending the backing plate, and then tap/hit the rim (on the inside edge) directly across from the pull bar with a hammer. The drum is cast iron, so you're always taking a chance of cracking or breaking it. But, cast doesn't bend or distort unless overheated. You might find this to be quicker/easier. Did you try finding someone to put a lining on the lining table-web. Most brake lining/clutch disc shops can do that. And thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video.
Yes I could have had the shoes relined but I’ve gone to a completely different and more serviceable chassis. Go check out my latest videos on this truck!!
Your rims are RUSTED to the axle HUB ! Loosen lug nuts with cheater pipe , BUT leave them on loosly ! Spray backside with WD40 on both sides ! Next , lower front axle down to ground............the weight will eventually cause the wheel to separate from the Hub !
I enjoyed your banter and honesty so much. I subscribed without seeing any other videos. Good l7ck to you.
Thank you
50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acatone mix works the best for rust. Something i learn from my grandpa working on tractors
Hey those ARE multi piece wheels. Guys argue over what is called split rim , split ring etc. But these split in the center of the rim, these are what's called widowmakers! Use extreme caution working on these including mounting dismounting or inflating. The fronts would blow inward and maybe damage the truck while making you mess your pants. The rears the joint is under that band around the circumference of the inside of the wheel, it would blow outwards and it wouldn't scare you. You'd be gone and never feel a thing. Deflate them before doing much to them! And use a cage and one of those clamp on chucks to inflate. Be careful.
They went to scrap!!
Good info.
There is a 1967 C50 in my dad's yard. I believe I still have the owner manual. In '67, the engine choices were two inline sixes, the 250 and 292, two small-blocks, the 283 and the 327, and a big block 366. The transmission choices were auto 4 speed with hydraulic retarder, 4 speed Chevrolet and New Process, 5 speed Clark, New Process and Spicer, and 5+4 spicers. Rear axles were available with vacuum shift two speeds. There's a bunch of info I don't have on top of my head but I kept that book somewhere and Its not going to the trash.
Im doing a 12 valve into my 58 Chevy dump truck 727 torque F. trans from 91 3500 dodge
You need to be using impact sockets on that impact. Regular sockets can blow up unexpectedly and cause serious injuries. Especially those horror freight ones.
Way to Troll there Roy.👍👍👍👍
I've got the big, lumbering 305 V6 in my '69 GMC. Since I've got it I've been thinking about all the things that you're experiencing with brakes and those rims and the axles and the whole thing I'm pretty convinced the best thing to do would be to replace all of it but I really don't want to it's got 86,000 original miles. I think I've got the same wheelbase as your rig. Seems like when I see them, they usually have that longer wheelbase on grain trucks and things
Just take the brakes up and have them put new liners on them. Works like a charm
Interesting. My 70 C50 has split-ring bud wheels. I've never seen a 70 with split rims. I think people get Split rims confused with 2 piece Slit ring (a wheel and a ring) and 3 piece Slit ring-lock ring wheels(a wheel with a slit ring and a safety ring). And of course, there is the 2-piece rim. 2 piece and split rims are rarely seen anymore. The most dangerous wheel I've ever seen is the old split rim. The old split rims were dayton style wheels. They literally had a diagonal slit/separation across the wheel and were held together with a ring. They were tube-type, with an inner flap to protect the tube. I saw one of these split rims come apart back in the 60s, while a tire guy was putting air in the tire. The ring took the top of his head off right at his eyebrows. Wheels have improved over the years. Split rim to the split ring, to the split ring, safety ring. Progressively less dangerous. And now the safest solid Dayton or Budd-style tubeless wheel. I've talked to tire men that really didn't know what a real split rim was. Probably because they had never seen one!!! I didn't start driving big trucks until 65. 1965.
V6 was more common in the GMC trucks, I’m not sure if they were in the Chevy line.
The big block V6 engines in those old trucks were usually 305 C.I.. Terrible fuel mileage and not as strong and dependable as a V8. I had one. My 70 - C50 had a 292 straight 6. Good dependable high mileage engine, but a little weak. I built a 350 and replaced the straight 6. Very happy with the fuel mileage and performance.
Get a 3/4 inch drive socket set also put a jack stand under your exstension
How much to convert to disc ??
I’d check into that !!
B
Nut buddy 56:1 lug nut tool for trucks.
Yep. You have split RING budd style rims. Not split rims!!! Not totally safe. They should be worked on inside a tire cage, totally deflated! And there's a good chance of distorting/gaulding the threads on the lug nuts and studs when you use a torch!!! Increasing the odds of stripping the threads out. If a tire guy wanted to piss me off all he had to do was take a torch to my lug nuts!!! I knew it meant trouble down the road!!! I'll share a little secret with you about removing the brake drum. You almost had it right. Put a pry/crowbar between the backing plate and the drum, pull out/toward you as hard as you can without bending the backing plate, and then tap/hit the rim (on the inside edge) directly across from the pull bar with a hammer. The drum is cast iron, so you're always taking a chance of cracking or breaking it. But, cast doesn't bend or distort unless overheated. You might find this to be quicker/easier. Did you try finding someone to put a lining on the lining table-web. Most brake lining/clutch disc shops can do that. And thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video.
Yes I could have had the shoes relined but I’ve gone to a completely different and more serviceable chassis. Go check out my latest videos on this truck!!
the way you do this is put a long exciton bar on it and put that on a jack stand then use a long brake over bar
Where can u buy body parts for c 50 like hood fenders
I don’t think anyone makes them. So you have to find used stuff.
@@longsspeed dang I have 2 c 50 truck like to make one in to a ramp truck
That's not a split rim. Split rims are actually split near the middle. That is called a split ring rim and is much safer.
Get the torch out and heat all the lug nuts up. Then put some anti seize on and wait 30 minutes!!!
Do you still have the chassis for that C50
Nope gone to scrap
@@longsspeed okay thank you
Your rims are RUSTED to the axle HUB ! Loosen lug nuts with cheater pipe , BUT leave them on loosly ! Spray backside with WD40 on both sides ! Next , lower front axle down to ground............the weight will eventually cause the wheel to separate from the Hub !
As old as those brake shoes are. They probably have asbestos in them. Be aware of the brake dust.
Have you ever seen a cheater pipe
Putting heat on a wheel with a tire mounted can cause it to explode. Super dangerous! There’s videos showing what happens- don’t ever do it.
ua-cam.com/video/uScd7nFzfQE/v-deo.html
Get a cheater pipe