Note: I mistakingly said the NEMA TT-30 adapter is a 240-volt plug, and it's not. It's a 120-volt adapter that's rated for a maximum of 30-amps. (24-amps for a continuous load)
Did you mean that the TT-30 _receptacle_ could be used for 30 amps? That isn't how the adapter is described. The manual says Grizzl-E Mini can work with the following adapters: • NEMA 14-50R - NEMA TT-30P. 110-135 VAC. Max 12A. Could you verify which adapters do which current adjustments?
@@ClarenceDold Good question. Really, it should be on the manufacturer to clarify--not Tom's fault in the manual isn't clear. Hmm, maybe there should be points in the chargerater for clarity in the manual.
@@charliesullivan4304 what’s unclear? The manual clearly says 120v 12A max. You can adjust to 7A if you want. And it says that for each of the 120v adapters.
@@michaelwitkiewicz7052 I think the manual fails to make it clear that unlike what is the other portables, swapping the adapter does not change the current setting.
I bought a Grizzl-E Mini last August, to use as an emergency charger while traveling. I saw the ad on the "Batteries Included Podcast" I was able to charge at my cousin's house while visiting. Just plugged it into his dryer outlet and was fully charged the next day. Great unit!
Did you manually adjust the current draw, or did the Grizzle-E Mini detect the lower current connection? What car were you charging? Do you know what the charging rate was in the car?
@ClarenceDold I drive a Hyundai Ioniq-5. I used it's on board ability to reduce current draw to 60% to protect my cousin's circuits. That set the charging rate at 4.5kw.
@@usaverageguy My friend's Ioniq 6 takes 60 hours for a trickle charge at home. I was going to suggest she buy this mini charger. How long do you think it would take to charge from 20 to 80% using this charger. I ask because you charged your Ioniq 5 with it at your friend's house.
@taylorjones17 If your friend has a 40 amp 220 volt plug available he can charge at 7.6kw so it would take about 7 hours. If he only has a standard 110volt outlet. It will charge at the same rate as his granny charger. The power he can safely draw from his house circuits is the determining factor.
Thanks for this review. This is the EVSE that I have chosen for when I join the EV revolution. I really like the Grizzl-e units and their positive and supportive attitude towards the customer. Seeing the strength of this review confirms my choice of this unit.
I gotta say, im extremely impressed with everything that comes with the portable Grizzl-e charger! Well thought of! I may have to get myself one, in addition to two other portable chargers I already have. This is a great package! Thanks for this great review Tom
Outstanding job by the UC team on this one. And you can still open it and replace a damaged cable unlike any other portable EVSE. Plus actual adapters that all the others leave out
For those non-EE viewers, the current selector DIP switch refers to Dual In-line Package switch. I remember repairing circuit boards back in the mid-70’s with these fabulous tiny switches.
I have the mini-classic that I have never used, but I keep it just in case I need it. I live in Louisiana where we lag behind in charging infrastructure and like to go camping so even further off the beaten path. I haven't needed it, but I can easily see it being used in the future. I still don't see the need for the smart functions in an EVSE, but I'm glad it's there for those who need it.
Wow. That's quite a score. Grizzl-E Classic is still going strong, but this would be top of the list if I needed a charger. Adding a digital readout might be more expensive than you are thinking. It's not just the display, programming and wiring. You'd also have to think about what to do to preserve the NEMA rating. :-)
Love these reviews. I'm a fan of United Chargers' products. I have a 40a Grizzl-E classic(not wifi connected) and I adore it. Simple, well built, reliable. As for collecting metrics, I rely on the Sense monitor we've had for years for that data.
Really glad this unit is out. Finally some competition with the Tesla UMC. I love the ability to change pilot current with the app. Very helpful for charging in places where the wiring to the plug you use is questionable, and your EV doesn't allow reducing the current at the vehicle. I wish they could make a highly portable version with the following: - Shorter cable. Make it 16 or 12ft instead of 25ft. - Thinner cable. It seems Tesla UMC is able to do 40A with even thinner cable than this. - Adapters are too long and too thick. Most of these are for lower currents. So make the cable thickness matched to its current
@@daemoncan2364The car doesn't really care as it's charger will be rated for 120/240 up to X (usually 32+ amps). If the EVSE is designed for it then yes, it will allow the car charger to use that voltage/amp combo, and then it's just down to the receptacle and circuit being wired for it.
@tkmedia3866 My PHEV charges at 120V at 16A just fine. 20A 120V circuits are very common. Just because a car comes with a 12A EVSE doesn't mean it can't charge higher.
@@tkmedia3866not true. Like many electronics, such as those in your house, some electronics can work on either 120V or 220V. If your EV can support 15amp/120V and Xamps/240V, it should be able to support 30/120 or even 40/120.
Glad to see you back to reviewing chargers--I'm really glad you kept us informed through all the CCS/NACS adapter news, but I see this is the channel's core content. I hope you'll get (or maybe already have?) one of the new Flo units--those look great.
12:18 You might want to have a disclaimer... rather than saying "let me unplug this here" say "make sure the unit is unplugged before opening the cover" or something like that. Happy Charging.
Looks awesome! My only question is why do we pay more for this unit in Canada when they make it here? In Canada, this unit is $600, and at the current exchange rate, $399 USD is $555 CAD, and they don’t have to export it. Maybe you could ask Gleb the next time you are talking with him? Not limited to the Mini, the whole line up is more expensive here. Great job as always Tom!
Say thank you to Quebec government, which only provide incentives for chargers at $600 of above. This way they protect their Flo baby they are growing at our taxpayer money. Hopefully incentives will be gone soon, and Canadians will enjoy parity on prices.
@ thank you for taking the time to explain, this totally makes sense. (Although unfortunate for those of us that don’t live in Quebec) I still think your chargers offer phenomenal value, just didn’t understand why we had to pay more than our southern neighbours, now I do. Keep up the great work!
Looks like a fantastic charger, and in fact mostly so for all the advanced features available through the app, and the ability to actually connect to a network, which basically no other mobile charger will do. I know you are not so much into the smart features of any charger, but they can be very important to some.
I have my Boshe 30 amp 240volt charger with 6-50P, it came with a coupon with my 2019 Kia Soul EV to basically pay for ordering the wall mount charger. Funny never used it as I had to buy a Juicebox so I coudl limit my charge to 80% as the 2019 Kia Soul could not limit AC charging as it was always 100%, so I left that Bose 30amp 240volt in its original box till my Juicebox contactor died and Enel-x failed to supply or repair the original charger.. Thanks Kia you saved my at home charging!
A couple concerns I've had with units that use adapters instead of changing the entire pigtail from the unit, is automatic current adjustment and temperature monitoring at the plug. Any idea if this unit still detects the adapters to change the current and is it capable of any plug temperature monitoring? I've had the temperature monitoring save from melted outlets at campgrounds a couple of times already with an older OEM EVSE, so that is high up on my list.
Great review, great product. Gleb should be proud. Regarding the lack of display screen: I wonder if a display screen would compromise the extreme toughness of the unit.
Tom, great job as usual. I think 48A requires hardwire on a 60A breaker? 48 vs 40 doesn’t hugely change charge speed. So if you are going through a wall receptacle, go 40A and this Mini is a great choice.
Actually, the difference in charging speed is 20%. When you are in a hurry, 20% can make a big difference. Otherwise, insignificant for most overnight charging.
@ true but for me, ABC, always be charging. 20% would not matter over night. That said I hardwired my 48A EVSE as it’s on a seriously exposed wall outside in CO. I didn’t want an outdoor receptacle.
A fully equipped kit! My UMC already has all these adapters, and works well, but… it is only 32A, and thus would charge slower than the Grizzl-E. Still… fast enough for me.
What you see on US Amazon at $40 cheaper are is what we are selling off the previous version of Mini, it is not Mini Connect. I think we have 5 units left. New Mini Connect are already inbound for US Amazon and will be available as soon as we sell off the remaining first gen Mini.
@@unitedchargersand that first generation isn't UL listed. What are the improvements that were needed to get approval versus ones that were just making it better because you could?
The NEMA TT-30 adapter is what you need for campgrounds with 30 Amp service. The "TT" stands for Travel Trailer. Many campgrounds don't have 50 Amp service (w/ 14-50 outlet), so you will need a TT-30 adapter.
I would still prefer the Tesla mobile charger. 32amps is safer and there are plenty of true plug adapters on the market with temperature sensing. I don't like these conversion adapters because they don't have temperature sensing on the plug that actually goes to the outlet. If there's age and corrosion on the outlet, it won't protect against melting and a fire. The adapters are also large and bulky. The true plug adapters for the Tesla mobile charger plug into the charge itself and retain the ability to sense temperature at the outlet. They're also much smaller and all of it fits in a nice small pouch half the size of this GrizzlE unit.
with you, never buy anything without temperature sensing. my Tesla has warned me twice of overheat and one outlet was a brand new one installed by licences electrician. Doesn’t matter how great an outlet is, corrosion and dirt will cause it to fail. nice to have a system that monitors for flaws.
Having adapters that aren’t all based off of the 14-50 would make this even better. Those adapters are clunky!! Surprising they didn’t follow suit with all of the other major manufacturers. Not having auto-sensing for the amperage on each adapter is a huge miss, as well. Dip switches on a mobile EVSE has to be a first… hopefully a last too.
I'm sure the reason is cost and weather protection. A nice connector to slot in the adapters would probably add a significant engineering and material cost. Agree that it's inelegant, but it is cost effective.
I really dislike the plug in pigtails. Along with the use of a 14-50 where no neutral is needed, this is a Tesla abomination. The Bolt forums are full of problems with the pigtail not being fully inserted.
From the manual, "If local electrical codes require a physical switch to govern the maximum current settings, adjust the DIP switch settings: " That was a problem for some smart chargers in certain jurisdictions. I want to say LA County, California, but I don't really recall.
Yep, the lack of automatic current limitation depending on which adapter is being used is a major negative. Most people won't know to change the current pulled by the EVSE and will just trip the breaker on the circuit or worst yet, cause something to melt. 😲 Plus there's not display on the unit itself to show which current setting the EVSE is at. I can't see how they can sell the whole package with the adapters without breaking some sort of safety regulations.
Nice review. Just one tip about the vehicle weight when you drive over it. I took an Automotive Vehicle Dynamics course in college and we had a lab we did where we had to weigh a vehicle by driving onto scales under each tire. Well it turns out only about 1/4th of the vehicle weight is supported by each tire. So a 4,000 lb vehicle has 1,000 lbs under the tires. Still a lot of weight going on that unit though!
Underwater and running it over with your truck. Tom, if I didn't know you had a good relationship with Gleb I would think you were trying to make him sweat. And... for our next test we will try a diamond mining drill and explosives...
Is this EVSE energy star certified? My utility company offers a rebate only if the charger i choose is energy star. Also, i would like to see your scoring give separate points to physical current limitations like dip switches. Like we saw with Enel X, you can't always rely on a software setting being available or reliable, the hardware settings are much more robust
Get the tesla mobile connector, you can get a 6-20 plug. I have one and have used a few times. Funny enough working at a school that had 6-20's for some of their woods shop equipment. I also ran a 6-20 to my garage coming from my solar battery backup system. I can add about 12kwh if needed in an emergency. If you have a J1772 vehicle, you'll need to get an adapter of course.
@@ClarenceDoldAny vehicle properly adopting the J3400 standard will be able to charge 277v AC charging. The US built Hyundai Ioniq 5 will charge at 277volts. Alex on Autos has videos on 277v charging. Wider spread adoption of it will help lower charging infrastructure cost and improve charging availability.
Lots of unused 277 volt available in parking lots during the day. 😎 It's cheaper in a commercial infrastructure. Maybe more J3400 EVSEs installed, avoiding the incompatibility with most J1772 vehicles. When I last looked, we had some customers with EVSEs on 277 volts, and only Tesla could charge.
Why? If the level 2 strategy in North America was predicated on charging at commercial sites, then the carmakers and level2 evse designers would design the upstream electronics appropriately. But with the exception of a few eccentric home owners that happen to be living over their commercial shops, then no residences have ready access to 277 v inputs. Would you rather pay for extra capability that you will never be able to use or a more cost efficient design for what you will actually use 80 to 100 percent of the time?
Tom, I think it would be great if you could cover smart switching devices for an existing circuit, like Neocharge and others, and also devices that attach to the main panel to enable an EV circuit if there is no capacity available (say to share a patio heater circuit). Thanks.
Must check. I’ve found free charging practically everywhere I go these days. Maybe it’s just my experience, but I find the mobile charger largely redundant.
17:05 I wonder if they are avoiding rubberized plastic for the connector because over time those coatings often get sticky and gross. Might be an intentional choice for longevity. It sounds like the plastic itself is sturdy. Maybe glass reinforced?
@@drleewhite You may be right. I have had rubber gloves become soft and sticky. But since they use rubber coating on their more expensive units. It is more likely a cost consideration.
Great video! Could you do a review of the SPAN drive charger? I'm considering getting a SPAN panel as part of a solar install and trying to figure out if the EV charger is worth double comparable products. My guess would be an ecosystem advantage keeping things in the SPAN ecosystem. Was considering the Autel based on your video of that product since that is marked down now.
Since the plug adapters are just plug convertors and not dongles that plug into the unit itself, Does the charger change the amps depending on the type of plug you are using? For example, if I use the 5-15 nema plug, does the charger set the max amp to 12 amps and does the app prevent me from setting it higher? I think that is a huge feature that is needed for safety and would like you to include that in your tests.. Thanks for the great reviews!
There’s a UA-cam video of a guy who bought this Mini and while he liked it quite a bit, he answered me about this question and said it doesn’t make that adjustment automatically. Has to be done in the app or by the dip switches. For my specific needs, I chose the J+ Booster 2, which does switch automatically via adapter and can also be adjusted with switching on the outside of the device (also reviewed favourably, with the price caveat, by State of Charge). Ordinarily a big price difference but I got an excellent deal on Amazon Prime Day in October.
@@Ovationhabs switching external on the J+ is equivalent to doing from the app on the mini. They’re both software switches. As is any “detectable adapter “ switch. The mini is more flexible in that the DIP setting overrides the maximum of ANY software set limit regardless if it’s from an app, adapter set, or display setting.
@@michaelwitkiewicz7052 Fair point regarding the DIP switches. However, I preferred the simplicity of adjusting the setting on the device itself rather than an app (and not needing to crack open the device), the robustness of the device (including charging, fully immersed, Tom's Rivian for hours with zero problems as depicted in his review of the J+) and the deal I scored on Amazon. I also prefer the adapter plug-in system on the J+ over the Grizzl-e. Of course, had there not been such a deal on Amazon, I probably would have opted for the Grizzl-e as reviewed here. I think people should be confident with either one. One additional observation--if I were going to use this in a space where I would regularly hang it from a wall to plug into a 240V receptacle (in or out of a garage), then I would consider the Grizzl-e the better option. The J+ wall mounting is inferior in my view (as well as in Tom's review).
This is from the manual. "Grizzl-E Mini will automatically detect the outlet power and adjust settings when the input cable is plugged into the outlet."
Is it possible for you to look into using an OBD dongle adapter into the ford lightning or any other EV and connecting the adapter to the ABRP apt. So you have the OBD Dongle providing vehicle status into the ABRP apt as you drive. Thanks a Million.
I just bought one of these to replace the one that Ford gave me with my Mach-E. I have not taken a road trip yet, so I have not tried it, but the Ford portable charger was faulting back and forth from 3kw to 6kw, so charging was a bit slow.
TT-30 is 30 amps at 120 Volts, and I am surprised that Tom didn't know that. I suppose it's in the manual. Aha! "NEMA 14-50R - NEMA TT-30P. 110-135 VAC. Max 12A." So, I see no value in this adapter. If you are in a campground, just plug into the 5-15 in the same pedestal. Or the 14-50 that is probably right next to the TT-30, possibly sharing one of the legs anyway. For a Bolt owner, that doesn't matter, because it will only accept 12 amps anyway.
Part of the heat testing should include changing its settings when hot. My wall box will connect and activate when hot but not manage charge current (this includes dynamic power sharing and solar tracking) this has caused several tripped breakers and charging from the grid not just solar.
That's a serious problem. I have heard of cases in which the EVSE send the proper signal for that kind of operation but the car doesn't respond the way it's supposed to according to the spec. What car was that? It might actually be something to report to NHTSA and might merit a recall.
@charliesullivan4304 ev6gt. Wasn't the car, was entirely the fault of the wallbox. Was not responding to app controll or charge hq. After calling the wallbox down, it started to work again.
@@farnzy2011 So with another EVSE, you were able to change the charging rate while charging? It's strange, because other people have success with those Wallbox features with other cars.
@charliesullivan4304 yes. The wallbox works great, untill it gets hot. Then it charges, but you can't change any of its settings and dynamic power management stopps working.
I also bought the mini this summer. Boy am I bummed when I saw that they did what I consider two major improvements to the mini. One is the charging cord is lighter then my version and the “connect” software. I love the unit but really wish I had these two features, especially after buying only a few months ago. Was my only charging tool for the first three months of owning my Lightning until my utilities required time of day evse was installed. Worked flawlessly in that role. But the “software” was rudimentary at best. The new software looks to be ideal. Gleb, how about an upgrade for a reasonable fee? Or can it be upgraded with a firmware upgrade?
Considering all EVSE do is connect from the AC plug to its output plug and does absolutely no voltage conversion nor AC rectification and only really contains a disconnect switch, it's actually quite astounding that they haven't been this small from the start.
Looks like a good unit, I had the Classic for a few years. However, I don't love the 5-15 adapter cable. Not having a right angle option might easily pull that out of the outlet or put a lot of torque on it. They include the more common adapters, but not all. Hard to beat the Tesla mobile connector in that aspect. I have have all but two of the adapters. I use the 5-20 at hotels, gets me a few more kwh overnight. How they implement different plugs into the EVSE body is better IMO. Also having a temp sensor right at the plug head adds a lot more safety that I don't think this Grizzl-e has. The Tesla EVSE is only 32A though, which is great for most smaller vehicles but might not be enough for Trucks and larger SUVs. And you need a NACS vehicle of course, the adapters are pretty expensive otherwise. If I sold the Tesla, I'd probably keep the EVSE and get a teslatap adapter if it was J1772. My plan is to get the Rivian R2, but with the upcoming government party changes, EVs may be eliminated or priced out of affordability.
I agree on the 5-15 plug angle. That is the one thing that Tesla figured out, that if you’re actually using as a mobile (traveling) unit you’re likely to have the unit “hanging” from a plug and that’s no bueno for the straight in designed plugs. Unless some idiot installed their plug upside down, which I’ve encountered. Then the 90 degree plug is just as bad for torquing on the outlet.
Tom, I believe if you wanted to mount the Mini upside-down, you can just turn the cover plate around so it does not look like it is upside down. This was a great video. Have you done a video on the basics of energy into a charger. I am a little confused by the circuit amperage. If my circuit is 30A, what is wrong with keeping the unit at 40A?
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney That is interesting. When I went to the manufacturer's web site, it showed the cable that plugs into the wall at the top, opposite from what you showed. I assumed it was just flipping the face plate. Can the cables be swapped?
@@mozu305I wouldn’t try swapping cables. The box is very confined and you would have to re-route the internal run of the wires. If you don’t like the label being upside down, make a new label on a printer and tape it on. Far cheaper and safer then messing with the internals or cover plate.
Thank goodness Tom now unplugs the charger from power when dunking it in a bucket of water or spraying with garden hose. That prior method seemed very unsafe for Tom.
I have been looking at ev chargers for my off grid, solar power inverters I’ve been having a lot of trouble getting my clipper creek EV charger to work on solar powered inverse with the ground bonding problem. Some work some. don’t if you could check into that that would be great good EV charger for Solar inverters.
I love the Grizzl-E company. Especially since one of its higher-ups was on your show. The equipment seems very robust. I just wonder why they place the heavier cord, the one with the most pulling etc, out of the TOP of the unit…?? Seems like it would prematurely damage the connection where it connects to the box. Oh…I just got to the 37 min mark where Tom states that charger can be hung upside-down. That’s probably how I’d mount it so that the stress of pulling is along the axis of the wire, and not at an angle to it 😊
I am going to pile on with others in the comments regarding two items. First, TT-30 is only 120V 30A. Does the EVSE actually signal 24A pilot signal? How does the unit know whether the TT-30 or NEMA 5-15 adapter is used? I don't think it can and therefore probably only allows 12A charging at 120VAC. The lack of proper NEMA 5-20 and TT-30 support that can actually allow faster than 12A charging is a big miss for a portable charger. Second, the dumb plug adapters is actually a hazard and I'm surprised that Tom didn't mention it. High quality portable chargers like the Tesla Mobile Connector and J+ Booster can sense which plug adapter is used and adjust the pilot signal to the car automatically. It is far too easy for a novice user to overload a NEMA 14-30 dryer outlet by their ignorance, not knowing that they should turn down the unit to 24A. In the best case, the 40A default draw will trip the breaker. Worst case, something will melt or catch fire.
You're correct on the TT-30, total brainfart there. I even have one in the garage that I use. I agree about the unit sensing the plug and am currently changing the chargerrater scorecard to address this. Only a few portable EVSE currently do that, as the TMC and the J+ Booster can. I'll definitely address this in future portable reviews. Thanks
hmmm standard house outlets in my neighbourhood run 110 - 115 volts ( i'm in the Caribbean) while i've got 240 volt outlets for my air conditioners and dryer. I'm still wondering if it will still work on a standard 110-115 volt wall outlet.
How do you set the amperage when you are on the road? Can the app connect via Bluetooth (since the unit will not be on WIFI) or will you need to open it up? My current EVSC has a button and display so that allows me to change the amperage manually.
I have the older mini and you can set from your cell phone browser by connecting to the unit via WiFi. This newer version does it thru the new app that is available. If you are going to purchase one of these be sure to confirm you’re getting the “Mini Connect” and not the “Mini”. Amazon is still selling the original Mini at a reduced price, which is a good unit but doesn’t have the Connect software and appears to have a heavier 25 ft cable. Have used the original extensively and had no issues but would like a lighter cable and the new software, mainly for future proofing.
I wish I knew about this before I got 2 Amazon Chinese cheap-o specials. My 2 EVSEs are 40A for a NEMA 14-50R and came with a 120V adapter. The problem is that if your circuit is less than the 40A or 20A (for 120) and you set the EVSE lower to plug it in and the power is interrupted the EVSE will default to its maximum output which could potentially trip a breaker or even start a fire. Could you add power interruption testing to your suite to see what the behavior is after power is restored? I refuse to use mine on anything but a 50A circuit now because of how dangerous they are.
@charliesullivan4304 They are going in stationary 14-50 plugs so once those are installed so it doesn't matter in my case. I just didn't realize something that dangerous could be sold these days.
Technically, it’s not a 7000 lb crush test. Only one tire crushed charger so that’s 1/4 of 7000 lbs if the F150 has identical weight on all tires (highly unlikely). It’s still very high pressure.
A correction at 2:32 - the TT-30 ("Travel Trailer") outlet is 120V, not 240V. It can supply up to 30A (x80% = 24A continuous, x120V = 2.88 kW charging) but many cars (Leaf & Bolt for sure) will not accept more than 12A (80% of a normal 15A circuit) at 120V anyhow. TT-30 is a really strange choice, anytime I've seen one at a campground in Canada or the USA it's been right beside the far more common & capable 14-50, and while a few gasoline generators are set up with 120V TT-30 for older camping trailers, I think the twist-locking 240V L14-30 is more typical.
How is this NEC compliant? Someone could hook the TT-30 up and attempt to draw 30 or 40 amps continuous which if charging over 3 hours the rule is 80% of 30amps. It’s not fool proof with dip switches or the app. Whereas Tesla with the removable adapters that plug directly into a EVSE use resistors so the unit knows what it’s hooked up to. Seems like a fire hazard unless I’m missing something?
The rules allow configuration settings like this on wall-mount chargers but not portables. I think the way they got the UL listing was to provide a wall bracket and tell UL that it's wall-mount so they applied those rules even though it's clearly intended to be portable. Edit: just noticed that they also exceed the 1-foot input cord requirement for portables. More indication that it is only approved in the non-portable category.
The dongles have resistors across the leads to determine which adapter is being used. So yeah, only use Grizzl-e's adapters!! EDIT----- Except the TT30 apparently, the unit will only provide 12A if it senses 120V, so that adapter is just for convenience. Although if there's a TT30 outlet, most likely there's a 5-15 too. So somewhat useless.
@andrewt9204 the dongles telling the charger what current to draw is what lots of others do: the Tesla mobile connector, the J+Booster, the OEM units made by Webasto for gm, ford, and VW, etc. But this does not have that capability. There's no extra pin on the adapters to do that.
How is that different then absolutely anything that gets plugged into an outlet? Anybody with a screwdriver can (and do) wire up “plugs that are good enough” they got from Amazon or the local big box store. Then wonder why their s/-t burned up. Same guys whose grandpas put pennies in their screw in fuses.
if I have a J1772 car id probably get the NACS just because I'd already be carrying a NACS adaptor for charging of tesla AC, and id be able to lend the charger to any tesla users without having to buy a J to NACS adaptor
my favorite portable charge is the gen 1 tesla mobile connector. Charges at 40amps /9.6kw its very small and you can get any adapter + they can be had on ebay at about $200.
I’m surprised this is so heartily recommended when the plugs lack thermal sensors to prevent users from pulling too much power and the amperage has to be adjusted using dip switches. That just seems extremely low-tech and unsafe to me compared to a Tesla Mobile connector which uses adapters that automatically adjust current and have sensors to prevent thermal events.
Not sure I agree. I wanted a mobile charger then can handle rain and snow. In some of my potential uses the mobile unit will be pretty exposed and if I’m not mistaken the Tesla mobile unit is not at as high a NEMA rating.
Great test, Tom! Question though: It's not 7000 lbs running over it, as 3 of the 4 wheels are on the ground and carrying their portion of the truck's weight, yes? So it's 1/4 of 7000. Still impressive, just wanted to point that out.
Note: I mistakingly said the NEMA TT-30 adapter is a 240-volt plug, and it's not. It's a 120-volt adapter that's rated for a maximum of 30-amps. (24-amps for a continuous load)
Did you mean that the TT-30 _receptacle_ could be used for 30 amps? That isn't how the adapter is described.
The manual says
Grizzl-E Mini can work with the following adapters:
• NEMA 14-50R - NEMA TT-30P. 110-135 VAC. Max 12A.
Could you verify which adapters do which current adjustments?
@@ClarenceDold Good question. Really, it should be on the manufacturer to clarify--not Tom's fault in the manual isn't clear.
Hmm, maybe there should be points in the chargerater for clarity in the manual.
@@charliesullivan4304 what’s unclear? The manual clearly says 120v 12A max. You can adjust to 7A if you want. And it says that for each of the 120v adapters.
@@michaelwitkiewicz7052 I think the manual fails to make it clear that unlike what is the other portables, swapping the adapter does not change the current setting.
I've seen TT-30 at some RV camp sites. Yes, only 120V, 30A rated
For $400, this is a steal of a deal with all the optional plugs and the length of the cable!
I bought a Grizzl-E Mini last August, to use as an emergency charger while traveling. I saw the ad on the "Batteries Included Podcast" I was able to charge at my cousin's house while visiting. Just plugged it into his dryer outlet and was fully charged the next day. Great unit!
Did you manually adjust the current draw, or did the Grizzle-E Mini detect the lower current connection?
What car were you charging?
Do you know what the charging rate was in the car?
@ClarenceDold I drive a Hyundai Ioniq-5. I used it's on board ability to reduce current draw to 60% to protect my cousin's circuits. That set the charging rate at 4.5kw.
@@usaverageguy My friend's Ioniq 6 takes 60 hours for a trickle charge at home. I was going to suggest she buy this mini charger. How long do you think it would take to charge from 20 to 80% using this charger. I ask because you charged your Ioniq 5 with it at your friend's house.
@taylorjones17 If your friend has a 40 amp 220 volt plug available he can charge at 7.6kw so it would take about 7 hours. If he only has a standard 110volt outlet. It will charge at the same rate as his granny charger. The power he can safely draw from his house circuits is the determining factor.
Congrats Tom 100k subscribers! 🎉
Thanks for this review. This is the EVSE that I have chosen for when I join the EV revolution. I really like the Grizzl-e units and their positive and supportive attitude towards the customer. Seeing the strength of this review confirms my choice of this unit.
A lot of thought went into the design of this Mini charger, what an excellent mini charger, well done Grizzl-E!
I gotta say, im extremely impressed with everything that comes with the portable Grizzl-e charger! Well thought of! I may have to get myself one, in addition to two other portable chargers I already have. This is a great package! Thanks for this great review Tom
Outstanding job by the UC team on this one. And you can still open it and replace a damaged cable unlike any other portable EVSE. Plus actual adapters that all the others leave out
For those non-EE viewers, the current selector DIP switch refers to Dual In-line Package switch. I remember repairing circuit boards back in the mid-70’s with these fabulous tiny switches.
I’m not an electrical engineer and I knew what a DIP switch was…
Thank you for the review. Been eyeing this for a while as a portable charger but waited to see your thoughts on it. Just ordered mine.
I have the mini-classic that I have never used, but I keep it just in case I need it. I live in Louisiana where we lag behind in charging infrastructure and like to go camping so even further off the beaten path. I haven't needed it, but I can easily see it being used in the future. I still don't see the need for the smart functions in an EVSE, but I'm glad it's there for those who need it.
So excited for another review!
Wow. That's quite a score. Grizzl-E Classic is still going strong, but this would be top of the list if I needed a charger.
Adding a digital readout might be more expensive than you are thinking. It's not just the display, programming and wiring. You'd also have to think about what to do to preserve the NEMA rating. :-)
365 days of holstering what a great job Grizzl-E!
Love these reviews.
I'm a fan of United Chargers' products. I have a 40a Grizzl-E classic(not wifi connected) and I adore it. Simple, well built, reliable.
As for collecting metrics, I rely on the Sense monitor we've had for years for that data.
Really glad this unit is out. Finally some competition with the Tesla UMC. I love the ability to change pilot current with the app. Very helpful for charging in places where the wiring to the plug you use is questionable, and your EV doesn't allow reducing the current at the vehicle. I wish they could make a highly portable version with the following:
- Shorter cable. Make it 16 or 12ft instead of 25ft.
- Thinner cable. It seems Tesla UMC is able to do 40A with even thinner cable than this.
- Adapters are too long and too thick. Most of these are for lower currents. So make the cable thickness matched to its current
TT30P is commonly an RV plug and is 120V 30 amps so 24X120=2.88 KW charging
Yeah, but will the charger or car let you use the full power (normally capped @ 12A@120V)
@@daemoncan2364The car doesn't really care as it's charger will be rated for 120/240 up to X (usually 32+ amps). If the EVSE is designed for it then yes, it will allow the car charger to use that voltage/amp combo, and then it's just down to the receptacle and circuit being wired for it.
@@Snerdlesmany EVs are capped for 120v at 12amps for AC charging. They will not go higher on 120v because the onboard charger doesn’t support it.
@tkmedia3866 My PHEV charges at 120V at 16A just fine. 20A 120V circuits are very common. Just because a car comes with a 12A EVSE doesn't mean it can't charge higher.
@@tkmedia3866not true. Like many electronics, such as those in your house, some electronics can work on either 120V or 220V. If your EV can support 15amp/120V and Xamps/240V, it should be able to support 30/120 or even 40/120.
My Rivian came with a portable charger, otherwise I would buy this in a second. Awesome portable charger and Gleb is a very likable CEO.
Glad to see you back to reviewing chargers--I'm really glad you kept us informed through all the CCS/NACS adapter news, but I see this is the channel's core content. I hope you'll get (or maybe already have?) one of the new Flo units--those look great.
I have them already. Reviews will be coming
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Great!
Very impressive unit/demonstration Tom. 👍🏻
Yes, was waiting for this video.
12:18 You might want to have a disclaimer... rather than saying "let me unplug this here" say "make sure the unit is unplugged before opening the cover" or something like that. Happy Charging.
Looks awesome! My only question is why do we pay more for this unit in Canada when they make it here? In Canada, this unit is $600, and at the current exchange rate, $399 USD is $555 CAD, and they don’t have to export it. Maybe you could ask Gleb the next time you are talking with him? Not limited to the Mini, the whole line up is more expensive here. Great job as always Tom!
Say thank you to Quebec government, which only provide incentives for chargers at $600 of above. This way they protect their Flo baby they are growing at our taxpayer money. Hopefully incentives will be gone soon, and Canadians will enjoy parity on prices.
@ thank you for taking the time to explain, this totally makes sense. (Although unfortunate for those of us that don’t live in Quebec) I still think your chargers offer phenomenal value, just didn’t understand why we had to pay more than our southern neighbours, now I do. Keep up the great work!
80 percent of our Canadian sales are from Quebec
Looks like a fantastic charger, and in fact mostly so for all the advanced features available through the app, and the ability to actually connect to a network, which basically no other mobile charger will do. I know you are not so much into the smart features of any charger, but they can be very important to some.
Still waiting on the 80amp review…
Congrats on 100K subs!!
I like the dip switches because I have a residence with a limited service (100a) and want to limit the EV draw to 24amps.
I have my Boshe 30 amp 240volt charger with 6-50P, it came with a coupon with my 2019 Kia Soul EV to basically pay for ordering the wall mount charger. Funny never used it as I had to buy a Juicebox so I coudl limit my charge to 80% as the 2019 Kia Soul could not limit AC charging as it was always 100%, so I left that Bose 30amp 240volt in its original box till my Juicebox contactor died and Enel-x failed to supply or repair the original charger.. Thanks Kia you saved my at home charging!
A couple concerns I've had with units that use adapters instead of changing the entire pigtail from the unit, is automatic current adjustment and temperature monitoring at the plug. Any idea if this unit still detects the adapters to change the current and is it capable of any plug temperature monitoring?
I've had the temperature monitoring save from melted outlets at campgrounds a couple of times already with an older OEM EVSE, so that is high up on my list.
Great review, great product. Gleb should be proud. Regarding the lack of display screen: I wonder if a display screen would compromise the extreme toughness of the unit.
Yes, Mini is a tough unit for any conditions, that's why minimalistic approach. We are working on something more beautiful, soon Tom will show it :)
Yeah, I would have a tough as nails and less expensive unit then a display. I have mine on phone, if I need to check, I can.
Tom, great job as usual. I think 48A requires hardwire on a 60A breaker? 48 vs 40 doesn’t hugely change charge speed. So if you are going through a wall receptacle, go 40A and this Mini is a great choice.
Correct
Actually, the difference in charging speed is 20%. When you are in a hurry, 20% can make a big difference. Otherwise, insignificant for most overnight charging.
@ true but for me, ABC, always be charging. 20% would not matter over night. That said I hardwired my 48A EVSE as it’s on a seriously exposed wall outside in CO. I didn’t want an outdoor receptacle.
A fully equipped kit! My UMC already has all these adapters, and works well, but… it is only 32A, and thus would charge slower than the Grizzl-E. Still… fast enough for me.
I love my custom OpenEVSE with ChargePoint cable/handle, but I like the look of this and it looks like a good recommendation.
Grizzl-E seems a bear 🐻 of a unit
Gleb makes great EVSEs.
Just watched your review and went over to Amazon to order. It's an even better deal selling for $40 less than what you stated in your review.
What you see on US Amazon at $40 cheaper are is what we are selling off the previous version of Mini, it is not Mini Connect. I think we have 5 units left. New Mini Connect are already inbound for US Amazon and will be available as soon as we sell off the remaining first gen Mini.
@@unitedchargersany chance of an upgrade path for those of us that bought the original mini (3 months ago for me).
@@michaelwitkiewicz7052 We do not have any plan yet :(
We sold out previous gen mini few days ago. Now it’s only mini connect.
@@unitedchargersand that first generation isn't UL listed. What are the improvements that were needed to get approval versus ones that were just making it better because you could?
The NEMA TT-30 adapter is what you need for campgrounds with 30 Amp service. The "TT" stands for Travel Trailer. Many campgrounds don't have 50 Amp service (w/ 14-50 outlet), so you will need a TT-30 adapter.
I would still prefer the Tesla mobile charger. 32amps is safer and there are plenty of true plug adapters on the market with temperature sensing. I don't like these conversion adapters because they don't have temperature sensing on the plug that actually goes to the outlet. If there's age and corrosion on the outlet, it won't protect against melting and a fire. The adapters are also large and bulky. The true plug adapters for the Tesla mobile charger plug into the charge itself and retain the ability to sense temperature at the outlet. They're also much smaller and all of it fits in a nice small pouch half the size of this GrizzlE unit.
with you, never buy anything without temperature sensing. my Tesla has warned me twice of overheat and one outlet was a brand new one installed by licences electrician. Doesn’t matter how great an outlet is, corrosion and dirt will cause it to fail. nice to have a system that monitors for flaws.
Your review is so interesting. When can I test my product
Having adapters that aren’t all based off of the 14-50 would make this even better. Those adapters are clunky!! Surprising they didn’t follow suit with all of the other major manufacturers.
Not having auto-sensing for the amperage on each adapter is a huge miss, as well. Dip switches on a mobile EVSE has to be a first… hopefully a last too.
I'm sure the reason is cost and weather protection.
A nice connector to slot in the adapters would probably add a significant engineering and material cost. Agree that it's inelegant, but it is cost effective.
I really dislike the plug in pigtails. Along with the use of a 14-50 where no neutral is needed, this is a Tesla abomination.
The Bolt forums are full of problems with the pigtail not being fully inserted.
The User Manual says
"Grizzl-E Mini will automatically detect the outlet power and adjust settings when the input cable is plugged into the outlet."
From the manual, "If local electrical codes require a physical switch to govern the maximum current settings, adjust the DIP switch settings: "
That was a problem for some smart chargers in certain jurisdictions.
I want to say LA County, California, but I don't really recall.
Yep, the lack of automatic current limitation depending on which adapter is being used is a major negative. Most people won't know to change the current pulled by the EVSE and will just trip the breaker on the circuit or worst yet, cause something to melt. 😲 Plus there's not display on the unit itself to show which current setting the EVSE is at.
I can't see how they can sell the whole package with the adapters without breaking some sort of safety regulations.
Nice review. Just one tip about the vehicle weight when you drive over it. I took an Automotive Vehicle Dynamics course in college and we had a lab we did where we had to weigh a vehicle by driving onto scales under each tire.
Well it turns out only about 1/4th of the vehicle weight is supported by each tire. So a 4,000 lb vehicle has 1,000 lbs under the tires.
Still a lot of weight going on that unit though!
I was going to point that out also. Still an impressive test.
Underwater and running it over with your truck. Tom, if I didn't know you had a good relationship with Gleb I would think you were trying to make him sweat. And... for our next test we will try a diamond mining drill and explosives...
Is this EVSE energy star certified? My utility company offers a rebate only if the charger i choose is energy star. Also, i would like to see your scoring give separate points to physical current limitations like dip switches. Like we saw with Enel X, you can't always rely on a software setting being available or reliable, the hardware settings are much more robust
I would like a NEMA 6-20 my table saw has that 240V X 16amps = 3.84 KW
Get the tesla mobile connector, you can get a 6-20 plug. I have one and have used a few times. Funny enough working at a school that had 6-20's for some of their woods shop equipment. I also ran a 6-20 to my garage coming from my solar battery backup system. I can add about 12kwh if needed in an emergency.
If you have a J1772 vehicle, you'll need to get an adapter of course.
Amazon has 6-20p to 14-50r adapters. I got one for my mini and it worked fine adjust the amp setting via the software
Do you have any content on the J3400 ability to charge 277v AC? It seems like a great option to make AC more accessible.
Most cars not named Tesla won't charge at 277 volts.
@@ClarenceDoldAny vehicle properly adopting the J3400 standard will be able to charge 277v AC charging. The US built Hyundai Ioniq 5 will charge at 277volts. Alex on Autos has videos on 277v charging. Wider spread adoption of it will help lower charging infrastructure cost and improve charging availability.
Lots of unused 277 volt available in parking lots during the day. 😎
It's cheaper in a commercial infrastructure. Maybe more J3400 EVSEs installed, avoiding the incompatibility with most J1772 vehicles.
When I last looked, we had some customers with EVSEs on 277 volts, and only Tesla could charge.
Why? If the level 2 strategy in North America was predicated on charging at commercial sites, then the carmakers and level2 evse designers would design the upstream electronics appropriately. But with the exception of a few eccentric home owners that happen to be living over their commercial shops, then no residences have ready access to 277 v inputs.
Would you rather pay for extra capability that you will never be able to use or a more cost efficient design for what you will actually use 80 to 100 percent of the time?
@michaelwitkiewicz7052 Just search Alex on Auto 277 volt charging. Watch his video. He does a great job explaining.
Tom,
I think it would be great if you could cover smart switching devices for an existing circuit, like Neocharge and others, and also devices that attach to the main panel to enable an EV circuit if there is no capacity available (say to share a patio heater circuit). Thanks.
Good product and well presented too 👍🏽.. I though only prefer a hard wired unit.
Kinda hard to pack a hardwired unit when traveling. I have hardwired in the garage and the original mini in the frunk
Must check. I’ve found free charging practically everywhere I go these days. Maybe it’s just my experience, but I find the mobile charger largely redundant.
@@viplav76 in my area its hard to find public chargers much less free ones. They exist, but not where I usually am looking for charging..
@ I understand.
17:05 I wonder if they are avoiding rubberized plastic for the connector because over time those coatings often get sticky and gross. Might be an intentional choice for longevity. It sounds like the plastic itself is sturdy. Maybe glass reinforced?
@@drleewhite You may be right. I have had rubber gloves become soft and sticky. But since they use rubber coating on their more expensive units. It is more likely a cost consideration.
Great video! Could you do a review of the SPAN drive charger? I'm considering getting a SPAN panel as part of a solar install and trying to figure out if the EV charger is worth double comparable products. My guess would be an ecosystem advantage keeping things in the SPAN ecosystem. Was considering the Autel based on your video of that product since that is marked down now.
For the information of the crowd. The NEMA 6-50 is a welding plug.
Since the plug adapters are just plug convertors and not dongles that plug into the unit itself, Does the charger change the amps depending on the type of plug you are using? For example, if I use the 5-15 nema plug, does the charger set the max amp to 12 amps and does the app prevent me from setting it higher? I think that is a huge feature that is needed for safety and would like you to include that in your tests.. Thanks for the great reviews!
There’s a UA-cam video of a guy who bought this Mini and while he liked it quite a bit, he answered me about this question and said it doesn’t make that adjustment automatically. Has to be done in the app or by the dip switches. For my specific needs, I chose the J+ Booster 2, which does switch automatically via adapter and can also be adjusted with switching on the outside of the device (also reviewed favourably, with the price caveat, by State of Charge). Ordinarily a big price difference but I got an excellent deal on Amazon Prime Day in October.
@@Ovationhabs switching external on the J+ is equivalent to doing from the app on the mini. They’re both software switches. As is any “detectable adapter “ switch.
The mini is more flexible in that the DIP setting overrides the maximum of ANY software set limit regardless if it’s from an app, adapter set, or display setting.
@@michaelwitkiewicz7052 Fair point regarding the DIP switches. However, I preferred the simplicity of adjusting the setting on the device itself rather than an app (and not needing to crack open the device), the robustness of the device (including charging, fully immersed, Tom's Rivian for hours with zero problems as depicted in his review of the J+) and the deal I scored on Amazon. I also prefer the adapter plug-in system on the J+ over the Grizzl-e. Of course, had there not been such a deal on Amazon, I probably would have opted for the Grizzl-e as reviewed here. I think people should be confident with either one. One additional observation--if I were going to use this in a space where I would regularly hang it from a wall to plug into a 240V receptacle (in or out of a garage), then I would consider the Grizzl-e the better option. The J+ wall mounting is inferior in my view (as well as in Tom's review).
This is from the manual. "Grizzl-E Mini will automatically detect the outlet power and adjust settings when the input
cable is plugged into the outlet."
Is it possible for you to look into using an OBD dongle adapter into the ford lightning or any other EV and connecting the adapter to the ABRP apt. So you have the OBD Dongle providing vehicle status into the ABRP apt as you drive. Thanks a Million.
Holy Mackerel! I hope you never discover a Baseball bat for testing purposes!
I’ve got an old clipper creek EVSE and I think that company has a video of them taking swings with a wooden bat😂
I may have to sell the two portable chargers I have (one came with my Lightning the other with my EV9) and buy this!
They are probably worth more when you sell the vehicle with them than without them.
The Key Features slide should say "J1772 or NACS Connector".
I just bought one of these to replace the one that Ford gave me with my Mach-E. I have not taken a road trip yet, so I have not tried it, but the Ford portable charger was faulting back and forth from 3kw to 6kw, so charging was a bit slow.
TT-30 is 30 amps at 120 Volts, and I am surprised that Tom didn't know that.
I suppose it's in the manual. Aha!
"NEMA 14-50R - NEMA TT-30P. 110-135 VAC. Max 12A."
So, I see no value in this adapter. If you are in a campground, just plug into the 5-15 in the same pedestal. Or the 14-50 that is probably right next to the TT-30, possibly sharing one of the legs anyway.
For a Bolt owner, that doesn't matter, because it will only accept 12 amps anyway.
Thank you
Part of the heat testing should include changing its settings when hot. My wall box will connect and activate when hot but not manage charge current (this includes dynamic power sharing and solar tracking) this has caused several tripped breakers and charging from the grid not just solar.
That's a serious problem. I have heard of cases in which the EVSE send the proper signal for that kind of operation but the car doesn't respond the way it's supposed to according to the spec. What car was that? It might actually be something to report to NHTSA and might merit a recall.
@charliesullivan4304 ev6gt. Wasn't the car, was entirely the fault of the wallbox. Was not responding to app controll or charge hq. After calling the wallbox down, it started to work again.
@@farnzy2011 So with another EVSE, you were able to change the charging rate while charging? It's strange, because other people have success with those Wallbox features with other cars.
@charliesullivan4304 yes. The wallbox works great, untill it gets hot. Then it charges, but you can't change any of its settings and dynamic power management stopps working.
@@farnzy2011 Thanks--so it might be a worse issue for people in hot climates?
Tt30 is 120v right?
Yes
Yes, it is. Brainfail there
Cool video. How does your Equinox EV charge from 10-80% in cold weather? Does the heat pump work well in the cold for DCFC?
I don't know yet. It hasn't been cold here in NJ.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Colorado is freezing. I'm planning on test-driving one next week, but the salesman doesn't know this information.
@ikeslo You can preheat the battery, so charging shouldn't be an issue
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Thank you.
I also bought the mini this summer. Boy am I bummed when I saw that they did what I consider two major improvements to the mini. One is the charging cord is lighter then my version and the “connect” software. I love the unit but really wish I had these two features, especially after buying only a few months ago.
Was my only charging tool for the first three months of owning my Lightning until my utilities required time of day evse was installed. Worked flawlessly in that role. But the “software” was rudimentary at best. The new software looks to be ideal.
Gleb, how about an upgrade for a reasonable fee? Or can it be upgraded with a firmware upgrade?
Sold
What a wild world we live in where a car charger can be the size of a laptop charger from only a few years ago.
Considering all EVSE do is connect from the AC plug to its output plug and does absolutely no voltage conversion nor AC rectification and only really contains a disconnect switch, it's actually quite astounding that they haven't been this small from the start.
In simple terms, these "chargers" are basically just expensive relay and GFCI boxes. The actual charger is in the vehicle.
Looks like a good unit, I had the Classic for a few years. However, I don't love the 5-15 adapter cable. Not having a right angle option might easily pull that out of the outlet or put a lot of torque on it. They include the more common adapters, but not all. Hard to beat the Tesla mobile connector in that aspect. I have have all but two of the adapters. I use the 5-20 at hotels, gets me a few more kwh overnight. How they implement different plugs into the EVSE body is better IMO. Also having a temp sensor right at the plug head adds a lot more safety that I don't think this Grizzl-e has.
The Tesla EVSE is only 32A though, which is great for most smaller vehicles but might not be enough for Trucks and larger SUVs. And you need a NACS vehicle of course, the adapters are pretty expensive otherwise. If I sold the Tesla, I'd probably keep the EVSE and get a teslatap adapter if it was J1772.
My plan is to get the Rivian R2, but with the upcoming government party changes, EVs may be eliminated or priced out of affordability.
I agree about the 5-15. But it comes with the cradle, so you can mount the unit so there's no strain on the plug.
I agree on the 5-15 plug angle. That is the one thing that Tesla figured out, that if you’re actually using as a mobile (traveling) unit you’re likely to have the unit “hanging” from a plug and that’s no bueno for the straight in designed plugs. Unless some idiot installed their plug upside down, which I’ve encountered. Then the 90 degree plug is just as bad for torquing on the outlet.
What is the AWG size of the wires in the charging cable?
Thanks Tom.
Can the TT-30 actually pull 24 amps at 120 volts? Some people are saying it’s limited to 12 amps.
Tom, I believe if you wanted to mount the Mini upside-down, you can just turn the cover plate around so it does not look like it is upside down. This was a great video. Have you done a video on the basics of energy into a charger. I am a little confused by the circuit amperage. If my circuit is 30A, what is wrong with keeping the unit at 40A?
The LED won't work if you turn the face plate upside down. If you leave the unit at 40a on a 30a circuit, you'll trip the circuit breaker.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney That is interesting. When I went to the manufacturer's web site, it showed the cable that plugs into the wall at the top, opposite from what you showed. I assumed it was just flipping the face plate. Can the cables be swapped?
@@mozu305I wouldn’t try swapping cables. The box is very confined and you would have to re-route the internal run of the wires.
If you don’t like the label being upside down, make a new label on a printer and tape it on. Far cheaper and safer then messing with the internals or cover plate.
Thank goodness Tom now unplugs the charger from power when dunking it in a bucket of water or spraying with garden hose. That prior method seemed very unsafe for Tom.
I have been looking at ev chargers for my off grid, solar power inverters I’ve been having a lot of trouble getting my clipper creek EV charger to work on solar powered inverse with the ground bonding problem.
Some work some. don’t if you could check into that that would be great good EV charger for Solar inverters.
My tesla charger seems to work OK though
so you can use it with the tesdla app?
I love the Grizzl-E company. Especially since one of its higher-ups was on your show. The equipment seems very robust.
I just wonder why they place the heavier cord, the one with the most pulling etc, out of the TOP of the unit…??
Seems like it would prematurely damage the connection where it connects to the box.
Oh…I just got to the 37 min mark where Tom states that charger can be hung upside-down. That’s probably how I’d mount it so that the stress of pulling is along the axis of the wire, and not at an angle to it 😊
I am going to pile on with others in the comments regarding two items.
First, TT-30 is only 120V 30A. Does the EVSE actually signal 24A pilot signal? How does the unit know whether the TT-30 or NEMA 5-15 adapter is used? I don't think it can and therefore probably only allows 12A charging at 120VAC. The lack of proper NEMA 5-20 and TT-30 support that can actually allow faster than 12A charging is a big miss for a portable charger.
Second, the dumb plug adapters is actually a hazard and I'm surprised that Tom didn't mention it. High quality portable chargers like the Tesla Mobile Connector and J+ Booster can sense which plug adapter is used and adjust the pilot signal to the car automatically. It is far too easy for a novice user to overload a NEMA 14-30 dryer outlet by their ignorance, not knowing that they should turn down the unit to 24A. In the best case, the 40A default draw will trip the breaker. Worst case, something will melt or catch fire.
You're correct on the TT-30, total brainfart there. I even have one in the garage that I use. I agree about the unit sensing the plug and am currently changing the chargerrater scorecard to address this. Only a few portable EVSE currently do that, as the TMC and the J+ Booster can. I'll definitely address this in future portable reviews. Thanks
hmmm standard house outlets in my neighbourhood run 110 - 115 volts ( i'm in the Caribbean) while i've got 240 volt outlets for my air conditioners and dryer. I'm still wondering if it will still work on a standard 110-115 volt wall outlet.
Should work. Are you running 50Hz instead of 60Hz? That may be the limiting thing.
@@im4udevco running roughly 60 hertz
How do you set the amperage when you are on the road?
Can the app connect via Bluetooth (since the unit will not be on WIFI) or will you need to open it up?
My current EVSC has a button and display so that allows me to change the amperage manually.
I have the older mini and you can set from your cell phone browser by connecting to the unit via WiFi. This newer version does it thru the new app that is available. If you are going to purchase one of these be sure to confirm you’re getting the “Mini Connect” and not the “Mini”. Amazon is still selling the original Mini at a reduced price, which is a good unit but doesn’t have the Connect software and appears to have a heavier 25 ft cable.
Have used the original extensively and had no issues but would like a lighter cable and the new software, mainly for future proofing.
Thats a nice kit.
I wish I knew about this before I got 2 Amazon Chinese cheap-o specials. My 2 EVSEs are 40A for a NEMA 14-50R and came with a 120V adapter.
The problem is that if your circuit is less than the 40A or 20A (for 120) and you set the EVSE lower to plug it in and the power is interrupted the EVSE will default to its maximum output which could potentially trip a breaker or even start a fire.
Could you add power interruption testing to your suite to see what the behavior is after power is restored? I refuse to use mine on anything but a 50A circuit now because of how dangerous they are.
Just get rid of the cheap-o amazon specials. Cheaper to get rid of them than to pay for the damage they might cause, or risk the shock hazard.
@charliesullivan4304 They are going in stationary 14-50 plugs so once those are installed so it doesn't matter in my case. I just didn't realize something that dangerous could be sold these days.
Technically, it’s not a 7000 lb crush test. Only one tire crushed charger so that’s 1/4 of 7000 lbs if the F150 has identical weight on all tires (highly unlikely). It’s still very high pressure.
What is the longest cable this can come with?
25 feet
Only short I see is no locking mechanism.
A correction at 2:32 - the TT-30 ("Travel Trailer") outlet is 120V, not 240V. It can supply up to 30A (x80% = 24A continuous, x120V = 2.88 kW charging) but many cars (Leaf & Bolt for sure) will not accept more than 12A (80% of a normal 15A circuit) at 120V anyhow. TT-30 is a really strange choice, anytime I've seen one at a campground in Canada or the USA it's been right beside the far more common & capable 14-50, and while a few gasoline generators are set up with 120V TT-30 for older camping trailers, I think the twist-locking 240V L14-30 is more typical.
The 2013 LEAF will accept at least 20 amps on 120 volts.
May need to check your tires to see if the charger damaged them.
They are fine
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney I'm thinking that was a joke...
Didn't you see where the front tire said, "Get out of my way, fool!"?
😂
How is this NEC compliant? Someone could hook the TT-30 up and attempt to draw 30 or 40 amps continuous which if charging over 3 hours the rule is 80% of 30amps.
It’s not fool proof with dip switches or the app. Whereas Tesla with the removable adapters that plug directly into a EVSE use resistors so the unit knows what it’s hooked up to.
Seems like a fire hazard unless I’m missing something?
The rules allow configuration settings like this on wall-mount chargers but not portables. I think the way they got the UL listing was to provide a wall bracket and tell UL that it's wall-mount so they applied those rules even though it's clearly intended to be portable.
Edit: just noticed that they also exceed the 1-foot input cord requirement for portables. More indication that it is only approved in the non-portable category.
The dongles have resistors across the leads to determine which adapter is being used. So yeah, only use Grizzl-e's adapters!!
EDIT----- Except the TT30 apparently, the unit will only provide 12A if it senses 120V, so that adapter is just for convenience. Although if there's a TT30 outlet, most likely there's a 5-15 too. So somewhat useless.
@andrewt9204 the dongles telling the charger what current to draw is what lots of others do: the Tesla mobile connector, the J+Booster, the OEM units made by Webasto for gm, ford, and VW, etc. But this does not have that capability. There's no extra pin on the adapters to do that.
How is that different then absolutely anything that gets plugged into an outlet?
Anybody with a screwdriver can (and do) wire up “plugs that are good enough” they got from Amazon or the local big box store. Then wonder why their s/-t burned up. Same guys whose grandpas put pennies in their screw in fuses.
@ this isn’t something that a local DIYer made though. It should be inherently safe.
I don't see a NEMA 6-50 option.
if I have a J1772 car id probably get the NACS just because I'd already be carrying a NACS adaptor for charging of tesla AC, and id be able to lend the charger to any tesla users without having to buy a J to NACS adaptor
my favorite portable charge is the gen 1 tesla mobile connector. Charges at 40amps /9.6kw its very small and you can get any adapter + they can be had on ebay at about $200.
Wishing it came with only 14-50 and 5-15 only, offer additional connectors as an option thus a lower price.
I’m surprised this is so heartily recommended when the plugs lack thermal sensors to prevent users from pulling too much power and the amperage has to be adjusted using dip switches. That just seems extremely low-tech and unsafe to me compared to a Tesla Mobile connector which uses adapters that automatically adjust current and have sensors to prevent thermal events.
I’m a fan of Grizzl-E products and its CEO, but don’t like this kluge plug design. Tesla’s UMC with detachable plugs is a much cleaner approach.
Not sure I agree. I wanted a mobile charger then can handle rain and snow. In some of my potential uses the mobile unit will be pretty exposed and if I’m not mistaken the Tesla mobile unit is not at as high a NEMA rating.
@ I agree with you. The Tesla UMC is not waterproof, just water resistant. It’s limited to only 32 A. I owned the gen 1 UMC which delivered 40 A
NEMA TT-30 (TT stands for Travel Trailer) connector is a 120 V 30 A recreational vehicle standard (hot-neutral-ground), also known as RV 30.
Great test, Tom! Question though: It's not 7000 lbs running over it, as 3 of the 4 wheels are on the ground and carrying their portion of the truck's weight, yes? So it's 1/4 of 7000. Still impressive, just wanted to point that out.
Correct. I don't believe I said there's 7,000 pounds of weight on the charger, just that the truck is 7,000 lbs.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney You do, but no worries! A mistake here or there gives us a reason to get all pedantic in the comments. :)
@@lowfuel6089 Yeah, watched it again and I did say that.
Is it UL certified? If it’s not, should I get a mark against it
Yes, it is, I say that a couple of times in the video
The big question...is it pronounced grizzl-e or grizzly?
grizzl-e :)