LS1 Valve Spring Upgrade to LS6 Springs
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2019
- I walk through how I upgraded my stock 80,000 mile LS1 Valve Springs to the LS6 springs.
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I’ve spent a fair amount of time researching a valve spring upgrade. And whether I can DIY it. I’m feeling a bit more confident after watching this excellent video. Thanks!
Glad I could help
I used a 24 mm offset wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt to rotate the crankshaft. I brought the cylinder I was working on to top dead center and that way the valves could not [possible fall into the cylinder. Thank you for another very helpful video.
That's a good idea, only caveat is to make sure you're 1,000% sure you've got that cylinder to top dead center because it would be a crying event if you watch them drop all the way down... Appreciate the comment sir, I need to get one of those offset wrenches!
Wow, you made that look easy.
You got yourself a new subscriber!
Thank you!
Great video!!
Great Video bud, I have my 2002 Camaro SS torn apart. I didnt change my aftermarket springs and it led to valve float. In turn it chewed up the cam and lifters.
Yikes.. hopefully you get back on the road soon!
Im glad I am doing springs with the A&A installation.
Good call!
The part number discrepancy confused the crap out of me. I ordered 12499224 springs but the packaging reads 12625033. Thank you for showing that the numbers are interchangeable.
Great instructional video !
Thank you!
Gonna do this this weekend
Sweet - Not to bad of a job - make sure you have a good spring compressor, magnet and air hose set up right! Good luck!
Yes thanks for that. I'm gonna open up the valve covers first to see if they've been replaced. I believe if there blue its the newer valve springs.
Hey man! My girlfriend is looking at a C5 Convertible, and I was wondering if the base cars also had valve spring issues, and if I should plan to replace springs, locks, seals, gaskets, pushrods, rocker arms, and pcv valve, or if those were problems only really seen on the Z's? Thank you!
The spring issue was just with the Z06s is my understanding..
@@Toys4Life that's what I have always thought as well. Thank you so much!
So cam position doesn't matter when torquing down the rocker arms? I see the manual says otherwise but did you have any problems not doing that procedure?
I'm sure they had a reason for writing it that way, but I can't figure it out. This is from a guy who 100% believes in using a torque wrench, following procedures on which bolts to torque first, and also using a torque angle meter if need be. That having been said, I've had absolutely zero issues, and I've seen this issue discussed multiple times through the years and people tend to be about 50/50 on it.
@@Toys4Life Gotcha, real men use torque wrenches for sure haha. I'm putting my rockers back on today and I think I'll just hit them all with 22ftlbs, turn the engine over by hand, and re-torque. If no change on any of them I won't bother to do the procedure on all of them.
Why did the old springs need to be replaced? What were you worried about?
I supercharged the car, my red line is now 6500 RPMs. I upgraded the valve springs so they can handle the extra RPMs.
I have the same supercharger with a base 02, I’m thinking I need to upgrade the springs, is there a technical reason for me to upgrade?
If you're shifting at 6400 like I am, that's another 500 RPM over stock. That's why I changed them out and went with LS6 springs. LS6 springs were rated for a higher RPM.
I called summit to get these parts... you paid $80 for that compressor tool?
Also what adapter do you use to screw the air into the plug?
Thanks
Yes $80. The hose to the cylinder for air is just the hose from my cylinder compression gauge with the one way schrader valve unscrewed.
hose setup is detailed at 5:15 in the video.
Im asking because I'd have to go out and buy a new air compressor, line, kind of wondering where to buy the parts that screw into the head
Or just turn each cylinder to TDC it doesn’t fall far
Can you not just turn the engine until the cylinder is at the top? therefore the valve will just rest on top of the cyclinder
Some people put a rope through the spark plug hole and then move the piston to the top to hold up the valves.. seems easier to use the air method to me.
@@Toys4Life only work on a cyl. if it is at top dead center and youll have no truble
Is your car all stock except the supercharger ? I have an all stock C5 and thinking of putting the same super charger just wondering what I have to do before i super charge it.
Engine is 100% stock. What year is yours?
I have a 1998. I will do the springs before i get the A&A kit I just will have to get a setup / tune that allows me to pass CA smog.
One concern I have with the pre 2000 ls1's is that the rod bolts are not as strong as later years - mid 2000 and newer (i believe). I would research this if I were you and see how high you are going to be comfortable spinning your engine without a rod bolt upgrade. Centrifugal superchargers make a ton of power in the 5500 to 6800 rpm range. You may want to consider a rod bolt upgrade as part of the project - which adds a lot of work unfortunately.
Toys4Life C5 I did not know that. Thanks for the heads up I will look into that.
@@rellyvalentino6784 You're going to need a better clutch LS7 is good. And a better radiator would help a lot. Ron Davis or DeWitts. And definitely a catch can.
Is there a gasket for the valve covers
Yes
Thanks
Did you rotate the motor to take off and put on the rockers ?
I did not.
@@Toys4Life thank you! Also what psi do you recommend for the air in the cylinders?
@@Radron26 90-150lb psi
@@Toys4Life thank you! I did springs so far, then on the next set when I started compressing the spring the air switched to like coming out the exhaust and intake. So I stopped haha
@@Radron26 Glad you stopped, yes, You do absolutely have to rotate the engine between removing valve springs, you've got to hit them when they're both closed!
Ken block... is that you!?! Just kidding, but you do sound alike though 😉
I just listened to him and am not hearing it....(:-)
Why don’t you go with double valve spring
I probably should. That would be safer.
Why not just compress the stock springs down, then rotate the engine over until you see the valves rise up a bit when you hit TDC?
Relying on the air to hold it up is scary to me, lots of risk there.
I didn't invent the compressed air method. It is pretty widely used and as long as the hose does not get disconnected your good... I lock the doors though as I don't want anyone coming in my garage and doing something stupid when I have valves being held up by air....
you want to be top dead center on number one to start with,do that one,then turn crank till the next cyl in timing order both valve springs are fully extended which will be TDC ,then change that one and turque to 22 as you go,turn crank till next in firing order is TDC and repeat till all 8 done,when putting on retaining clips you can pull up on valve stem to give max room without crushing springs so hard,and keep fingers over clips when you loosen tool,so not to fly away if its not locked well.do this and never worry about dropping a valve in cyl
you could risk retainer clips coming off and dropping the valve , just turn engine and go in timing order one at a time torque as you go, be on TDC and no problem
Where's the fiero?
Just resting. Planning more tweaks and videos!
@@Toys4Life looking forward to it! Do you have an Instagram or anything so i can keep up with the fiero
Not at the moment. On my to do list!
@@Toys4Life let me know if you because your build is the inspiration for mine😂 i wanna get atleat 320+ from my 3800sc
Your OK but you really should have gone with the PAC 1218 springs. Much higher quality and very similar spring rates.
Pac are very well respected 4 sure! That having been said, how do you know they are better than the current LS6 springs being sold?
When you started it up it sounded dry and strange, something went wrong
Are you being serious? Or are you just unfamiliar what a blower sounds like?
Cole nailed it.