I've been learning about the C5 platform for months now, thanks in part to you. I'll be getting one in at most a few weeks, so this is some great last-minute information.
Another excellent video that should clear up the confusion about coolant temperatures. Your recomendation against a 180 degree thermostat is wise. Our Corvettes are designed to run hotter than what most believe to be necessary. One small note: If one is panicking about higher coolant temperatures while sitting in traffic, turn on the AC and it will activate a coolant fan to help reduce the temperature. The best advice you noted was to clean out the front of the radiator and condensor from road debris. Thank you for another great C5 video.
That is true but - the problem is when you turn on the AC it runs the ac which means the condenser that sits in front of the radiator is getting warmer (shedding heat) directly into the radiator - thus eliminating some of the benefit.
@@Toys4Life I agree with you. Just a small temperature drop but maybe enough to alleviate some owners' anxiety. Many of my fellow Corvette owners do not accept that these modern engines run hotter.
I got the remote Cool It fan controller. Super easy install and i just keep the remote in the console for easy access when its needed. Keeps my ‘97 from overheating during the brutal Texas summers.
I live in Vegas and the temps have been starting at 90 degrees at 7am and going up to 110 around noon, my cars temps cruise around 210 - coolant and 230 - oil with very relaxed driving and very short trips. I just resently did a 160 thermostat and a street tune and had my fan temps lowered a bit, now my car has had 216 - oil and 205 coolant temps with some aggressive driving. I can say it was definitely worth doing both as it just give me a little bit confidence with my type of driving.
One of my all-time favorite when Percus tells Andromeda the sight of her pierced him like an arrow, her beauty did the same to me. Still have a digital copy of the film and watch it at least twice a year. ❤
Something not mentioned for coolant temps, adjusting the ratio of coolant liquid to distilled water. If your area doesn't go far below freezing, add more distilled water. It cools better.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge , I have very good experience with standalone computers like Fueltech, AEM,Electromotive etc... with the Mazda Rotary engine and I got my first corvette 2003 C5 Z51 ìn Brandon FL, after I was trap in Traffic for over 1 hours and 30 minutes temp rising to 238° I was super concerned, thanks again 👍!!! I love you guys !!!
You forgot one item Dewitt upgraded fans move twice the air my c5 was running in LA 225-235 I was afraid to drive it I replaced the radiator and fan upgrade from Dewitt installed 160 thermostat new air dam and big mouth scoop hot days cars runs 185-200 I’m loving it and thx Dewitt for the advice and parts reccomendation
Over many yrs I experimented with 160, 170, 180, 185, stock T-Stats. And that includes drilling bleed holes them, adjusting e-fan limits, and even trimming down the outside diameter of the water pump impeller. For the C5 here is my thought... if its STOCK run a 160 or 170 and have the tune adjusted for it. If its got a cam and/or you track it.. or live where you see 95F temps regularly.. swap the radiator for an all aluminum and increased capacity unit. And run a 180 and adjust the tune. My 04Z06 - three years on a 160 T-Stat and ECS tune. 10k miles including 100F in the south, road trips, and extended idling. No problems at all. My OIL temps are 172-176 in regular driving. Max I saw was 220 and that was running the tail of the dragon for 1hr in a lower gear. And that was only when I was at heavy throttle. Within 30seconds of backing off.. oil temp came downward (Mobil 1 10W-30) Coolant temps are in the 172F to 195F area no matter the temps or speed. I clean debris from my rad and condenser each yr before my annual drive to the tail of the dragon. One more point... I once got a mod combo that resulted in a run away coolant temp situation. That was a 5.0L mustang (1995) where I cut the impeller OD down, used a 160 T-Stat, and drilled a bleed hole in it. In knoxville Tn it kept getting too hot in stop and go traffic. I changed it to a 180 T-Stat w/o a bleed hole and it was fine from then on. The trouble that can happen is that the T-Stat stays open all the time, the coolant passes through the radiator too fast to cool off, and you get a thermal runaway situation. So raising the T-Stat opening point (in those situations) can give it just enough time to dwell in the radiator to cool off. IMO don't be afraid of a colder stat AS LONG AS the tune is adjusted for it. (there are several parameters that need to be adjusted.. not just the e-fan) btw... I was a water pump engineer at Ford for 6 yrs 😉
Plz keep in mind that I have no experience with Corvettes however, (several things) I know they share many parts as any other G.M. vehicle uses! Secondly, I have wired up several cooling systems! Also, I drive a pontiac & I had never heard my cooling fan operate, so I began testing. All parts worked fine, the car just never reached 220-230° degrees but, I wanted to ensure that I could turn on my fan at any moment so, I poked around my fusebox cooling fan relay until the fan turned on (with the test light attached to a GROUND) I ran a wire into the vehicle, attached a 2 pin toggle switch, then connected the second pin directly to ground/sheet metal under the dash! I can control my fan at any moment yet, The fan still works at its normal temp specs! I am pretty sure the Vette uses the same exact fuse block as my G.M. so yeah. One visible wire to a toggle & a short wire under the dash which is unseen!
I had the temp hit almost to the red zone at the end of August, and took my 2003 in for service. They showed me that there was so much debris in the radiator that it was heavily impacted. I chose to replace the radiator and condenser. Would putting a nose cover on her keep the radiator cleaner? Thank you for all of your help. I just got mine in November 2023 and absolutely love it!
Incredible video. Really appreciate the time you put into this. I’m in southern MS…. Temps are rising and you have given me more chew on than than originally thought.
The stock operating temps for my 135i N55 are 120C. I lowered them to 90C mostly by upgrading the oil thermostat housing. I also opened up the engine bay & set the radiator fans to sport which accounts for about 5C reduction. Even at autobahn speeds I don't ever get near stock temps anymore. Really helps with longevity & reducing stress on oil & plastic components. No additional aftermarket oil cooler is needed and the warm up time remains the same.
You need your oil temp over 100 C to boil the water out. Also the hotter you can run your engine without detonation and knock, the more efficient it will run.
@@mwp1088 I don't notice more or less consumption. The temps are slightly above 100C when driving 220-280kmh for a few minutes. I think hotter temps are worse
@@mwp1088 Water already evaporates at lower temperatures. But tollerances are designed for a certain temperature and Oil is designed for a certain temperature. @digitaldissident : did you change to different oil too? Maybe added a oil catch can for the increased blowby? I am curious, never heard of a 120c engine😊
I so enjoy your videos. They are well explained with details and a common sense approach. While I understand your technical expertise about heat dissipation and everything you said was factual you never mentioned additives for your coolant. I can testify that water wetter does lower your temperatures 2 to 5 degrees once you add it it into the coolant. Also, is that a Fiero in your garage next to your C5 Corvette? Good job, keep up the good work and the informational videos. Tee
I should have done a little more research on water wetter agents. I agree, I think they probably do help! Yes, that's a Pontiac Fiero with a modified 3,800 supercharged engine.
I have the hood louvers and the remote switch. Although my car is not tuned , the only yime i use the remote , if we sit in traffic on a really hot day with the ac on. Cruising at 65 70 there is never any need
Bought the ECP aluminum radiator for my '97 and, although I have no plans to track the car etc, I did notice the temps rising quickly when at idle in warmer temps- all the way up to around 220°F and zero fan activity. Noticed an immediate difference with the new setup, but will be resetting the fan temps for additional peace of mind. Now, regardless of what is 'normal' fluctuation for this car, I am still not comfortable knowing that my coolant temps will rise 30-40 degrees time and time again. I would tend to think that it isn't particularly good for an engine to experience such constant temperature differences, but that's just my opinion.
On my 96, a 160 degree thermostat along with setting fans to on at 200 degrees and 205 degrees for the C4 LT-1 is a perfect setting. For the LT-1, you do get slightly more power by doing that. I would imagine the same for your car but mine is tuned with Jets DST. Installing a 160 degree thermostat insures you can increase timing with less of a chance of knock. As soon as I made that change, my 96 ran better and did feel slightly more power resulting from it...
I trimmed my front air lip sense I am lowered on stock bolts. Since then I have definitely noticed a decent jump in my temperatures. In Houston heat It definitely makes me worried since The temperature gauge goes above 235 pretty frequently. Especially in slower driving speeds Around town and up to 50 mph. Once at free-flowing highway speeds above 65 things cool down a lot.
I have purchased a 50th anniversary Corvette with a manual six-speed about 3 months ago and I know clearly now that it definitely doesn't have a heating I'm not sure what the gentleman has done to it but clearly something was done that's something I don't have to tackle which is nice. I know also that the exhaust was changed putting in an x pipe and exhaust in the rear of the car with mufflers I know it's has a cold air intake which I was told was tuned on a dyno but what downtown's me is that I have played around on the street with two newer Corvettes and I have no problem stay with them actually embarrassing one of that too not sure what's been done to this car but you open up the hood and it looks stock besides that intake
New to the Corvette world, just picked up a 1999 C5 last night. Today in the DFW, we hit 104. When I got home I noticed my temp gauge was at around 3/4s, I see many people talking about degrees, I am not sure how many degrees 3/4 is on the gauge. Because of that, I am here. If this is an option on the dash/cluster to display the actual temp degrees then I apologize.
I'm just watching to see what's up with the temperature, I don't remember what mine runs and don't think I really looked at it, I bought it new in 01 and just drove it to Florida and back then a little here and there, I plan on taking it out this year for some cleaning and a couple miles around it only has 7500 on it but has been sitting years again
The last C5 rolled off the assembly line almost twenty years ago. I wouldn't trust the plastic after that long & tons of heat cycles. Good time to replace w a new one anyway. Cheap insurance.
Good point, that having been said I'm amazed at how long plastic radiators last. I have another one that's from the mid '80s in my supercharged 3800 Fiero, still going strong.
I’m late to the party but some great info here. Another temp to try and would be oil temp. Mine will get up 265 on hot day with a heavy foot, but it normally will come down quickly and run in the 215 to 235 range.
With synthetic oil I wouldn't worry about that too much. You certainly could add an external oil cooler. Mine rarely get over 240 - but I will try to keep a better eye on them!
Disagree on the 160° thermostat. You can always play with the fans to make it warmer, but you can't if the cooler coolant isn't there. I run 160s in all of my LS vehicles and i use HP Tuners to modify the fan settings for a normal operating temperature of 185 on a 70ish degree day. This equates to around 210° sitting in traffic on a 110° day and around 170° when it's freezing outside. This equates to lower temps all around including oil temps of less than 250 when giving it the beans on said 110° day...
What temp do you suppose your engine would sit at on a 55 degree day taking a road trip (averaging 65mph) down the freeway to the Corvette Museum with a 160 T-stat?
@Toys4Life stays around 185 on the highway in most conditions. During the colder winter days that I was willing to drive it, I think the coldest it got on the highway was around 175-177. I don't drive them daily. My daily is provided by my company. I do a majority of my highway driving during these 110° summer days. I can alter the fans to make it run hotter though.
I have an ECP radiator in my M6 2000 and it performs significantly worse that the stock unit, which unfortunately sprung a leak. The customer service was okay, the two owners are pretty decent chaps. The first one they sent me was a leaky mess and I replaced every part of the cooling system until I finally figured out that the radiator was leaking from between the fins. They sent me a second one. It did not leak, but it performed the same. I was really hoping it would be at least an improvement to the stock radiator. With the AC on max with the stock unit the engine never went past 192 sitting idle and the AC blew cold enough to form condensation on the windows. Sitting idle the new radiator with the AC on max the car will get to 230 and the second fan will cut on to bring it down. I should mention that the AC will not blow as cold as it did with the stock unit and when the car is getting to 230 the AC barely works. It does, however, work well while you are driving and maintains a stable temp of 192 and the AC will blow.... cooler but not like it would before; I do not believe it flows as well as the original. I think I will scrape together some cash for a Dewitts. I should add that I have kept my AC maintained in tip-top shape
@@Toys4Life Two-core is correct. If it is a coolant flow issue it does not explain the AC warming at idle yet cooling while driving. I think the design is airflow restricted rather than coolant restricted. I could rig my fans to run high all the time. Or maybe justify hood vents and a fan upgrade? 😄 I actually have a third and brand new ECP unit sitting on a shelf still in the box because the owners sent it to me free of charge assuming there were flaws in the first two. The second radiator they sent wasn't even tall enough to mount properly to the upper radiator support and bushings. I found this discovery baffling. Considering the QC issues, I am having trouble believing a third swap would result in any difference; After the fight with the first and second units I am burnt out and hesitant to put more labor into it. I am considering just selling it to reclaim some cash to stick into a Dewitts fund. I do not think I can justify the labor required to swap it just to snuff out the glimmer of hope that it rectifies the issue. Assuming my experience is the same for other owners, I wonder what this is doing to the automatic cars out there...😬
Love my Dewitt’s radiator. Coolant sits low 180s on a hot day and 170s on a cool day, with oil under 210 on a hot day and 190s on a cool day. The little radiator stock c5s have is a joke
Good information. I find a lot of crap up against the condenser that needs attention monthly. I never thought of trying my Diablosport Trinity on my C5 to adjust fan temps. I am going to do that. Not sure if that is available in the unit. I bought the Trinity for my pickup. Another thing I have been meaning to ask. I see the 50 AE badge on the hatch. What happened to the front fender badges?
@@Toys4Life All 2003 models have the silver front and rear emblems with “Anniversary 50” at the top of the emblem. Only the Anniversary Edition came with the fender badges. Though I have seen some that owners have added to the fenders on none AE cars But those baby’s must be made out of Panda cause Ecklers had them on their website a couple years ago for like $250.00 a piece.
Curious your thoughts on how the addition of headers will impact underhood temps. I plan to install Kooks headers when they arrive and a cool air intake with a tune.
Great job t4f ! i really like your videos ! I install saccity wire relay on m'y c5 IT does a Great job and like you said fairly easy to install ! Im Curious to Know if you have take a look to the video i have done about IT 😊
I had no ability to use the key fobs or tire pressure monitoring system. My RFA module had the green crusties. I replaced the module and have been able to reprogram the key fobs, but the tpms is not showing up in the DIC. Any suggestions. Does the BCM need reprogrammed with RPO configuration in body control systems? thank you.
I love in south Florida and it’s getting extremely hot. My coolant and transmission fluid temps get close to 230f. It’s really starting to worry me. I know the c5 runs hot but is this TOO hot?
I would probably get the fans to come on sooner. That should lower both temps. Have you cleaned out your radiator thoroughly and condenser. Not sure if you're aware but your transmission does have a little bit of a cooler in the radiator.
@@Toys4Life I have not but it’s definitely something I’m going to do. I’m getting the car tuned so I will definitely have them turn the fans on earlier. I did not know the transmission had a little cooler. That’s interesting
That's 100% true, the only problem is since the condenser is ahead of the radiator it starts releasing heat Right into the airflow heading to the radiator. Extra heat negates much of the benefit.
That's 100% true, the only problem is since the condenser is ahead of the radiator it starts releasing heat Right into the airflow heading to the radiator. Extra heat negates much of the benefit.
I am kind of skeptical of any advice that suggests that someone is going to out engineer the professional engineers that developed all the interdependent C5 systems. Especially when the potential for a commission is in play. The C5 already uses a fuzzy logic in the engine control , so unless you have a very specific need , another tune is not needed. Same advice goes for seeking another temperature, you are trying to fix something that is not broken. Kind of like applying old piston technology to a jet engine and trying to correct all the flames coming out, because engines didn't use to do that. The radiator advice about the southwest needing a replacement radiator that is heavier and operates outside of the original design specification completely ignores the extensive testing done in death Valley as part of routine product development . Believe me, GM is not going to release a car incapable of running satisfactorily in such a large portion of the american market. Heat soak happens to every car, it is not something that needs to be fixed, and there is ventilation, the fans still come on when the design temp is reached, even when the car is parked. . One needs to consider this car was designed with supercomputer time , the ignition event is optimized for the designed heat range, which is measured in the mass air velocity sensor, and accounts for for performance down to the swirl inside the heads that the air density effects as it mixes with the fuel . You start altering the original design by modifying one of the interdependent systems , chances are you will lose efficiency, and efficiency is power, not just a gas milage figure that some people seem to think just randomly happens. ' These cars are not like the old days, where you could just buy a speed part and slap it on. Back in those days an engine with features like the LS 1 with an aluminum block and fuel injection would be would be a race engine featured in a magazine, and wouldn't go 200, 000 miles with just oil changes, and as designed maintenance.
Appreciate the comment as always. Why did the engineers have the thermostat open at 187. If optimal was 210 or 220, they could easily have the thermostat open there. It's not a mass air velocity sensor. It is a mass air sensor. It detects the amount of the air. That way it knows how much fuel to mix. Engineers at the OEM level have to compromise between several things. Enthusiast can switch the compromise equation around a little bit if they want. I clearly said this isn't necessary, but some people like me want to do it and I would say it's absolutely worth it.
One critical thing not being taken into account when it comes to the engineers of any car including the C5. Profitability & strict budgets requiring the lowest bidder to provide the parts for the build. Now for the engineers…those same geniuses that designed the wiring harness to exist under the battery tray where side post batteries that were prone to leak lived in the top bunk. Let’s not forget the amazing column lock feature they designed into the build that GM’s own recalls could not solve for. Then we have the udders just in front of the fire wall that if clogged cause water to find it’s way into the dash to douse the passenger kick panel fuse box to fill with water. Or those same engineers that put the oil pressure sensor under the wiper cowl requiring either the intake be removed or some crafty wrench work with a swivel extension to replace the OPS. Or the PCV designs that cause oil to pool in the intakes and cause carbon buildup on the pistons. Or the early model EBCMs that fail and can’t be repaired. I can think of at least 5 more shortfalls of the GM engineers when they designed the C5 or used sub optimal parts in the build to meet budgets. Reducing operating temps is always a goal for those modifying their cars and running power adders. If you’re happy with your mediocre stock C5 great! If your not willing to settle for mediocrity on the performance front modifications must be done to the C5. I love the C5 as a starting point. (enough to have owned 3 of them and one for 25 years). I just needed to pickup where the budgets and engineers fell short.
People don't understand temperatures - when a car is performing at its maximum running mine up and around redline for an extended period of time the temperature of the oil has never exceeded 243° and the water temperature is in a respectable 230° , now I will watch your video to see what you have to say ¿`_
@@Toys4Life GM did the research and development and that's why the first fan comes on at that temperature and then the second fan then as a backup because they know those temperatures are acceptable, especially knowing that most Corvette owners drive them like old lady ¿`_
@@Toys4Life Nor are they acceptable for me. I read or was told that the reason the temp. gets so high at idle is for emission reduction. Can you find any confirmation on this?
True but the radiator doesn't cool as good when hot air from the condenser is getting pulled into into the radiator. But better than nothing though (:-)
It's simple drain the dexcool and put distilled water and hypercool in put a 160 termastat in get the fans to to on at a. Lower temperature keep the cooling system clean I live in FL and my C5 04 with a BTR stage 4 cam black on black super cold AC runs around 168 to 180 trans temperature around 145 oil temperature 196 to 212 coldest running and best running C5 out there. Runs 10's in the 1/4 gets 23 mpg at 85 mph and 32 at 55 mph now stop light to stop light it eats fuel like 9 mpg Google Sweet Corvette on You Tube
C5/C6 have a very inefficient cooling system and it's vey bad for a boosted LS especially in a hot environment Too bad GM engineers preferred aerodynamics over a better cooling system lacks
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I've been learning about the C5 platform for months now, thanks in part to you. I'll be getting one in at most a few weeks, so this is some great last-minute information.
Another excellent video that should clear up the confusion about coolant temperatures. Your recomendation against a 180 degree thermostat is wise. Our Corvettes are designed to run hotter than what most believe to be necessary. One small note: If one is panicking about higher coolant temperatures while sitting in traffic, turn on the AC and it will activate a coolant fan to help reduce the temperature. The best advice you noted was to clean out the front of the radiator and condensor from road debris. Thank you for another great C5 video.
That is true but - the problem is when you turn on the AC it runs the ac which means the condenser that sits in front of the radiator is getting warmer (shedding heat) directly into the radiator - thus eliminating some of the benefit.
@@Toys4Life I agree with you. Just a small temperature drop but maybe enough to alleviate some owners' anxiety. Many of my fellow Corvette owners do not accept that these modern engines run hotter.
I got the remote Cool It fan controller. Super easy install and i just keep the remote in the console for easy access when its needed. Keeps my ‘97 from overheating during the brutal Texas summers.
That was the best C5 presentation I've ever heard. Are you reading this or are you just that good? And yeah, me and my 99 FRC subscribed.
Appreciate the comment!!
I live in Vegas and the temps have been starting at 90 degrees at 7am and going up to 110 around noon, my cars temps cruise around 210 - coolant and 230 - oil with very relaxed driving and very short trips. I just resently did a 160 thermostat and a street tune and had my fan temps lowered a bit, now my car has had 216 - oil and 205 coolant temps with some aggressive driving. I can say it was definitely worth doing both as it just give me a little bit confidence with my type of driving.
I live in Vagas also, where did you go to get your tune done?
One of my all-time favorite when Percus tells Andromeda the sight of her pierced him like an arrow, her beauty did the same to me. Still have a digital copy of the film and watch it at least twice a year. ❤
Nice!
I bought & love the SAC CITY COOL IT. I live in Northern California where it gets HOT! it solved my issues. (Thanks for mentioning it)
Great to hear!
Something not mentioned for coolant temps, adjusting the ratio of coolant liquid to distilled water. If your area doesn't go far below freezing, add more distilled water. It cools better.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge , I have very good experience with standalone computers like Fueltech, AEM,Electromotive etc... with the Mazda Rotary engine and I got my first corvette 2003 C5 Z51 ìn Brandon FL, after I was trap in Traffic for over 1 hours and 30 minutes temp rising to 238° I was super concerned, thanks again 👍!!! I love you guys !!!
I am open for suggestions also I got pretty good understanding on the Diablo sports , I not sure if I going with supercharger near to the future
If you are going to supercharge down the road and do some of your own tuning - HP Tuners might be the way to go?
Thank you for these videos! Very thoughtful and detailed even for those of us who turn wrenches often.
You forgot one item Dewitt upgraded fans move twice the air my c5 was running in LA 225-235 I was afraid to drive it I replaced the radiator and fan upgrade from Dewitt installed 160 thermostat new air dam and big mouth scoop hot days cars runs 185-200 I’m loving it and thx Dewitt for the advice and parts reccomendation
Over many yrs I experimented with 160, 170, 180, 185, stock T-Stats. And that includes drilling bleed holes them, adjusting e-fan limits, and even trimming down the outside diameter of the water pump impeller.
For the C5 here is my thought... if its STOCK run a 160 or 170 and have the tune adjusted for it. If its got a cam and/or you track it.. or live where you see 95F temps regularly.. swap the radiator for an all aluminum and increased capacity unit. And run a 180 and adjust the tune.
My 04Z06 - three years on a 160 T-Stat and ECS tune. 10k miles including 100F in the south, road trips, and extended idling. No problems at all. My OIL temps are 172-176 in regular driving. Max I saw was 220 and that was running the tail of the dragon for 1hr in a lower gear. And that was only when I was at heavy throttle. Within 30seconds of backing off.. oil temp came downward (Mobil 1 10W-30)
Coolant temps are in the 172F to 195F area no matter the temps or speed.
I clean debris from my rad and condenser each yr before my annual drive to the tail of the dragon.
One more point... I once got a mod combo that resulted in a run away coolant temp situation. That was a 5.0L mustang (1995) where I cut the impeller OD down, used a 160 T-Stat, and drilled a bleed hole in it. In knoxville Tn it kept getting too hot in stop and go traffic. I changed it to a 180 T-Stat w/o a bleed hole and it was fine from then on.
The trouble that can happen is that the T-Stat stays open all the time, the coolant passes through the radiator too fast to cool off, and you get a thermal runaway situation. So raising the T-Stat opening point (in those situations) can give it just enough time to dwell in the radiator to cool off.
IMO don't be afraid of a colder stat AS LONG AS the tune is adjusted for it. (there are several parameters that need to be adjusted.. not just the e-fan)
btw... I was a water pump engineer at Ford for 6 yrs 😉
Great info as usual. I've been on that stretch of 75/85 N into Atl tooo many times to count. Time to blow out the radiators.
Plz keep in mind that I have no experience with Corvettes however, (several things) I know they share many parts as any other G.M. vehicle uses! Secondly, I have wired up several cooling systems! Also, I drive a pontiac & I had never heard my cooling fan operate, so I began testing. All parts worked fine, the car just never reached 220-230° degrees but, I wanted to ensure that I could turn on my fan at any moment so, I poked around my fusebox cooling fan relay until the fan turned on (with the test light attached to a GROUND) I ran a wire into the vehicle, attached a 2 pin toggle switch, then connected the second pin directly to ground/sheet metal under the dash! I can control my fan at any moment yet, The fan still works at its normal temp specs! I am pretty sure the Vette uses the same exact fuse block as my G.M. so yeah. One visible wire to a toggle & a short wire under the dash which is unseen!
I had the temp hit almost to the red zone at the end of August, and took my 2003 in for service. They showed me that there was so much debris in the radiator that it was heavily impacted. I chose to replace the radiator and condenser. Would putting a nose cover on her keep the radiator cleaner? Thank you for all of your help. I just got mine in November 2023 and absolutely love it!
I'll just take that white Fiero Formula behind you. Thanks!
If the price is right....
Incredible video. Really appreciate the time you put into this. I’m in southern MS…. Temps are rising and you have given me more chew on than than originally thought.
The stock operating temps for my 135i N55 are 120C. I lowered them to 90C mostly by upgrading the oil thermostat housing. I also opened up the engine bay & set the radiator fans to sport which accounts for about 5C reduction. Even at autobahn speeds I don't ever get near stock temps anymore. Really helps with longevity & reducing stress on oil & plastic components. No additional aftermarket oil cooler is needed and the warm up time remains the same.
Engineers wanted a cleaner/efficient combustion over a less cleainer less reliable engine
You need your oil temp over 100 C to boil the water out. Also the hotter you can run your engine without detonation and knock, the more efficient it will run.
@@mwp1088 I don't notice more or less consumption. The temps are slightly above 100C when driving 220-280kmh for a few minutes. I think hotter temps are worse
@@mwp1088 Water already evaporates at lower temperatures.
But tollerances are designed for a certain temperature and Oil is designed for a certain temperature.
@digitaldissident : did you change to different oil too?
Maybe added a oil catch can for the increased blowby?
I am curious, never heard of a 120c engine😊
I so enjoy your videos. They are well explained with details and a common sense approach. While I understand your technical expertise about heat dissipation and everything you said was factual you never mentioned additives for your coolant. I can testify that water wetter does lower your temperatures 2 to 5 degrees once you add it it into the coolant.
Also, is that a Fiero in your garage next to your C5 Corvette? Good job, keep up the good work and the informational videos. Tee
I should have done a little more research on water wetter agents. I agree, I think they probably do help! Yes, that's a Pontiac Fiero with a modified 3,800 supercharged engine.
Wow from the good information I wish you were my neighbor can't get the garage to do all that stuff I live in Florida fell
I have the hood louvers and the remote switch. Although my car is not tuned , the only yime i use the remote , if we sit in traffic on a really hot day with the ac on. Cruising at 65 70 there is never any need
Oh, I bet those louvers help quite a bit!
Bought the ECP aluminum radiator for my '97 and, although I have no plans to track the car etc, I did notice the temps rising quickly when at idle in warmer temps- all the way up to around 220°F and zero fan activity. Noticed an immediate difference with the new setup, but will be resetting the fan temps for additional peace of mind. Now, regardless of what is 'normal' fluctuation for this car, I am still not comfortable knowing that my coolant temps will rise 30-40 degrees time and time again. I would tend to think that it isn't particularly good for an engine to experience such constant temperature differences, but that's just my opinion.
On my 96, a 160 degree thermostat along with setting fans to on at 200 degrees and 205 degrees for the C4 LT-1 is a perfect setting. For the LT-1, you do get slightly more power by doing that. I would imagine the same for your car but mine is tuned with Jets DST. Installing a 160 degree thermostat insures you can increase timing with less of a chance of knock. As soon as I made that change, my 96 ran better and did feel slightly more power resulting from it...
Not sure how a 160 thermostat keeps it cooler actually, it's going to blow past that and not look back, unless it's ❄️.
Really appreciate you...thank you for all of your valuable information.
Been seeing a few in the Facebook group lately with new splitters with overheating problems afterward, might make for a good vid.
I trimmed my front air lip sense I am lowered on stock bolts. Since then I have definitely noticed a decent jump in my temperatures. In Houston heat It definitely makes me worried since The temperature gauge goes above 235 pretty frequently. Especially in slower driving speeds Around town and up to 50 mph. Once at free-flowing highway speeds above 65 things cool down a lot.
Thank you. Best informative video ever. You are amazing dude.
I appreciate that!
I have purchased a 50th anniversary Corvette with a manual six-speed about 3 months ago and I know clearly now that it definitely doesn't have a heating I'm not sure what the gentleman has done to it but clearly something was done that's something I don't have to tackle which is nice. I know also that the exhaust was changed putting in an x pipe and exhaust in the rear of the car with mufflers I know it's has a cold air intake which I was told was tuned on a dyno but what downtown's me is that I have played around on the street with two newer Corvettes and I have no problem stay with them actually embarrassing one of that too not sure what's been done to this car but you open up the hood and it looks stock besides that intake
New to the Corvette world, just picked up a 1999 C5 last night. Today in the DFW, we hit 104. When I got home I noticed my temp gauge was at around 3/4s, I see many people talking about degrees, I am not sure how many degrees 3/4 is on the gauge.
Because of that, I am here. If this is an option on the dash/cluster to display the actual temp degrees then I apologize.
It actually does, it's going to hover between 2:20 and 2:30 on a hot day. Enjoy that new car!
Thank you @@Toys4Life , she has been a blast. Finally got on her a little last night.
Highly informative video, as usual. Thanks for posting. 👍
I'm just watching to see what's up with the temperature, I don't remember what mine runs and don't think I really looked at it, I bought it new in 01 and just drove it to Florida and back then a little here and there, I plan on taking it out this year for some cleaning and a couple miles around it only has 7500 on it but has been sitting years again
The last C5 rolled off the assembly line almost twenty years ago.
I wouldn't trust the plastic after that long & tons of heat cycles.
Good time to replace w a new one anyway.
Cheap insurance.
Good point, that having been said I'm amazed at how long plastic radiators last. I have another one that's from the mid '80s in my supercharged 3800 Fiero, still going strong.
It's the rubber seals that degrade the most w/time and thermal cycles.
I’m late to the party but some great info here. Another temp to try and would be oil temp. Mine will get up 265 on hot day with a heavy foot, but it normally will come down quickly and run in the 215 to 235 range.
With synthetic oil I wouldn't worry about that too much. You certainly could add an external oil cooler. Mine rarely get over 240 - but I will try to keep a better eye on them!
265 wow... most I ever saw was 230F in my C5 Z06.
Get a dewits radiator that has a heat exchanger for your oil. As long as you’re moving, your temps will be fine. Uses engine coolant to cool oil.
Disagree on the 160° thermostat. You can always play with the fans to make it warmer, but you can't if the cooler coolant isn't there.
I run 160s in all of my LS vehicles and i use HP Tuners to modify the fan settings for a normal operating temperature of 185 on a 70ish degree day.
This equates to around 210° sitting in traffic on a 110° day and around 170° when it's freezing outside.
This equates to lower temps all around including oil temps of less than 250 when giving it the beans on said 110° day...
What temp do you suppose your engine would sit at on a 55 degree day taking a road trip (averaging 65mph) down the freeway to the Corvette Museum with a 160 T-stat?
@Toys4Life stays around 185 on the highway in most conditions.
During the colder winter days that I was willing to drive it, I think the coldest it got on the highway was around 175-177.
I don't drive them daily. My daily is provided by my company.
I do a majority of my highway driving during these 110° summer days.
I can alter the fans to make it run hotter though.
Another great vid! Thank you for all the tips! I sent you an email about cooling adjustment with your HP Tuner software.
Siempre..estupendo..Gracias
I have an ECP radiator in my M6 2000 and it performs significantly worse that the stock unit, which unfortunately sprung a leak. The customer service was okay, the two owners are pretty decent chaps. The first one they sent me was a leaky mess and I replaced every part of the cooling system until I finally figured out that the radiator was leaking from between the fins. They sent me a second one. It did not leak, but it performed the same. I was really hoping it would be at least an improvement to the stock radiator.
With the AC on max with the stock unit the engine never went past 192 sitting idle and the AC blew cold enough to form condensation on the windows.
Sitting idle the new radiator with the AC on max the car will get to 230 and the second fan will cut on to bring it down. I should mention that the AC will not blow as cold as it did with the stock unit and when the car is getting to 230 the AC barely works. It does, however, work well while you are driving and maintains a stable temp of 192 and the AC will blow.... cooler but not like it would before; I do not believe it flows as well as the original. I think I will scrape together some cash for a Dewitts.
I should add that I have kept my AC maintained in tip-top shape
If that's true, the coolant must not be going through the whole radiator cuz I believe it's a two-core correct?
@@Toys4Life Two-core is correct. If it is a coolant flow issue it does not explain the AC warming at idle yet cooling while driving. I think the design is airflow restricted rather than coolant restricted.
I could rig my fans to run high all the time.
Or maybe justify hood vents and a fan upgrade? 😄
I actually have a third and brand new ECP unit sitting on a shelf still in the box because the owners sent it to me free of charge assuming there were flaws in the first two. The second radiator they sent wasn't even tall enough to mount properly to the upper radiator support and bushings. I found this discovery baffling.
Considering the QC issues, I am having trouble believing a third swap would result in any difference; After the fight with the first and second units I am burnt out and hesitant to put more labor into it. I am considering just selling it to reclaim some cash to stick into a Dewitts fund. I do not think I can justify the labor required to swap it just to snuff out the glimmer of hope that it rectifies the issue.
Assuming my experience is the same for other owners, I wonder what this is doing to the automatic cars out there...😬
Love my Dewitt’s radiator. Coolant sits low 180s on a hot day and 170s on a cool day, with oil under 210 on a hot day and 190s on a cool day. The little radiator stock c5s have is a joke
such a great video keep it up .
Thanks good video, are you going to Bowling Green, Kentucky next Year for the Corvette Caravan?
Thank you! Maybe on the CC - it sounds like fun!
Good job.
Good information. I find a lot of crap up against the condenser that needs attention monthly. I never thought of trying my Diablosport Trinity on my C5 to adjust fan temps. I am going to do that. Not sure if that is available in the unit. I bought the Trinity for my pickup. Another thing I have been meaning to ask. I see the 50 AE badge on the hatch. What happened to the front fender badges?
Thank you!! My car is not the Anniversary special edition. it is just a 2003 and I think even the normal ones have the special hatch badgh.
@@Toys4Life All 2003 models have the silver front and rear emblems with “Anniversary 50” at the top of the emblem. Only the Anniversary Edition came with the fender badges. Though I have seen some that owners have added to the fenders on none AE cars But those baby’s must be made out of Panda cause Ecklers had them on their website a couple years ago for like $250.00 a piece.
@@matthewboudreaux2693I removed the front badge… BEST upgrade I did… no more wax I can’t clean out
Curious your thoughts on how the addition of headers will impact underhood temps. I plan to install Kooks headers when they arrive and a cool air intake with a tune.
They definitely add heat to the engine room and center of the car in slower driving.
Agreed 👍
Do you have a video regarding sloppy steering?
I do not, sorry 😞.
Great job t4f ! i really like your videos ! I install saccity wire relay on m'y c5 IT does a Great job and like you said fairly easy to install ! Im Curious to Know if you have take a look to the video i have done about IT 😊
I just did, nice job & good choice going with the switch IMO!
@@Toys4Life thanks m'y friend ! I appreciate
Good information, does this also apply to a C-6
Most does!
I had no ability to use the key fobs or tire pressure monitoring system. My RFA module had the green crusties. I replaced the module and have been able to reprogram the key fobs, but the tpms is not showing up in the DIC. Any suggestions. Does the BCM need reprogrammed with RPO configuration in body control systems? thank you.
www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/3503367-keyless-entry-rfa-module-not-working.html
Speaking of temps, what is everyone’s hot idle oil pressure?
Depends on how hot it is. 25 plus is good at idle.
I love in south Florida and it’s getting extremely hot. My coolant and transmission fluid temps get close to 230f. It’s really starting to worry me. I know the c5 runs hot but is this TOO hot?
Automatic transmission I presume, do you have a cooler on it?
@@Toys4Life you are correct, it is automatic. I purchased it a few months ago and there is not a cooler on it
I would probably get the fans to come on sooner. That should lower both temps. Have you cleaned out your radiator thoroughly and condenser. Not sure if you're aware but your transmission does have a little bit of a cooler in the radiator.
@@Toys4Life I have not but it’s definitely something I’m going to do. I’m getting the car tuned so I will definitely have them turn the fans on earlier. I did not know the transmission had a little cooler. That’s interesting
Is there any downside to lowering the fan thresholds down to around 190-200 degrees?
Setting it to 190 could have the fans running an awful lot in warmer climates. This will be more wear and tear on your fans, circuitry and alternator.
@@Toys4Life Ok, but my engine will be nice and comfy and COOL!!! 🥶😁 That seems like a potentially good compromise?
My A/C doesn't work....new condensors but still does not work. Does this affect engine?
If there is no AC pressure, the computer won't trigger the AC compressor to run. Should be fine.
Is there a way I can message you? I just had a couple questions about my C5 hoping you’d be able to help me out haha.
You can ask it here, it may help others and others might help provide answers?
If you turn on the ac the 1st fan kicks on
That's 100% true, the only problem is since the condenser is ahead of the radiator it starts releasing heat Right into the airflow heading to the radiator. Extra heat negates much of the benefit.
That's 100% true, the only problem is since the condenser is ahead of the radiator it starts releasing heat Right into the airflow heading to the radiator. Extra heat negates much of the benefit.
How about hood vents, anyone have any before and after data?
Oh, they would absolutely help. I could have included those this method number seven but it's a little extreme for most (:-).
Tape some yard to your hood w/vents and take a drive. I did 20+ yrs ago. You might be supprised
I am kind of skeptical of any advice that suggests that someone is going to out engineer the professional engineers that developed all the interdependent C5 systems. Especially when the potential for a commission is in play. The C5 already uses a fuzzy logic in the engine control , so unless you have a very specific need , another tune is not needed. Same advice goes for seeking another temperature, you are trying to fix something that is not broken. Kind of like applying old piston technology to a jet engine and trying to correct all the flames coming out, because engines didn't use to do that.
The radiator advice about the southwest needing a replacement radiator that is heavier and operates outside of the original design specification completely ignores the extensive testing done in death Valley as part of routine product development . Believe me, GM is not going to release a car incapable of running satisfactorily in such a large portion of the american market.
Heat soak happens to every car, it is not something that needs to be fixed, and there is ventilation, the fans still come on when the design temp is reached, even when the car is parked. . One needs to consider this car was designed with supercomputer time , the ignition event is optimized for the designed heat range, which is measured in the mass air velocity sensor, and accounts for for performance down to the swirl inside the heads that the air density effects as it mixes with the fuel . You start altering the original design by modifying one of the interdependent systems , chances are you will lose efficiency, and efficiency is power, not just a gas milage figure that some people seem to think just randomly happens. '
These cars are not like the old days, where you could just buy a speed part and slap it on. Back in those days an engine with features like the LS 1 with an aluminum block and fuel injection would be would be a race engine featured in a magazine, and wouldn't go 200, 000 miles with just oil changes, and as designed maintenance.
Appreciate the comment as always. Why did the engineers have the thermostat open at 187. If optimal was 210 or 220, they could easily have the thermostat open there. It's not a mass air velocity sensor. It is a mass air sensor. It detects the amount of the air. That way it knows how much fuel to mix. Engineers at the OEM level have to compromise between several things. Enthusiast can switch the compromise equation around a little bit if they want. I clearly said this isn't necessary, but some people like me want to do it and I would say it's absolutely worth it.
One critical thing not being taken into account when it comes to the engineers of any car including the C5. Profitability & strict budgets requiring the lowest bidder to provide the parts for the build.
Now for the engineers…those same geniuses that designed the wiring harness to exist under the battery tray where side post batteries that were prone to leak lived in the top bunk. Let’s not forget the amazing column lock feature they designed into the build that GM’s own recalls could not solve for. Then we have the udders just in front of the fire wall that if clogged cause water to find it’s way into the dash to douse the passenger kick panel fuse box to fill with water. Or those same engineers that put the oil pressure sensor under the wiper cowl requiring either the intake be removed or some crafty wrench work with a swivel extension to replace the OPS. Or the PCV designs that cause oil to pool in the intakes and cause carbon buildup on the pistons. Or the early model EBCMs that fail and can’t be repaired.
I can think of at least 5 more shortfalls of the GM engineers when they designed the C5 or used sub optimal parts in the build to meet budgets.
Reducing operating temps is always a goal for those modifying their cars and running power adders. If you’re happy with your mediocre stock C5 great! If your not willing to settle for mediocrity on the performance front modifications must be done to the C5.
I love the C5 as a starting point. (enough to have owned 3 of them and one for 25 years). I just needed to pickup where the budgets and engineers fell short.
That's telling him😂
People don't understand temperatures - when a car is performing at its maximum running mine up and around redline for an extended period of time the temperature of the oil has never exceeded 243° and the water temperature is in a respectable 230° , now I will watch your video to see what you have to say ¿`_
Well, what do you think?
@@Toys4Life GM did the research and development and that's why the first fan comes on at that temperature and then the second fan then as a backup because they know those temperatures are acceptable, especially knowing that most Corvette owners drive them like old lady ¿`_
Agreed, they are acceptable. But that's not the same thing as optimal in my opinion.
@@Toys4Life Nor are they acceptable for me. I read or was told that the reason the temp. gets so high at idle is for emission reduction. Can you find any confirmation on this?
I have HP tuners II. Woohoo
Air conditioning on.
Fan on.
True but the radiator doesn't cool as good when hot air from the condenser is getting pulled into into the radiator. But better than nothing though (:-)
1 👍
It's simple drain the dexcool and put distilled water and hypercool in put a 160 termastat in get the fans to to on at a. Lower temperature keep the cooling system clean I live in FL and my C5 04 with a BTR stage 4 cam black on black super cold AC runs around 168 to 180 trans temperature around 145 oil temperature 196 to 212 coldest running and best running C5 out there. Runs 10's in the 1/4 gets 23 mpg at 85 mph and 32 at 55 mph now stop light to stop light it eats fuel like 9 mpg Google Sweet Corvette on You Tube
Nice!
Water wetter $15
Worth it for a few degrees for sure!
Dewitts
C5/C6 have a very inefficient cooling system and it's vey bad for a boosted LS especially in a hot environment
Too bad GM engineers preferred aerodynamics over a better cooling system lacks
There’s nothing wrong with 235. The motor is designed for that.
Yep, it is good enough for most.