I'm opposite, I've never noticed this warm up period or noise from metallic pads (unless when wet), they work flawlessly,. However my experience with resin pads is the brake fade and glazing. Once it happens, the rest of your ride is over.
Thanks for this video dude, I'm doing my first MTB build and I bought a used bike. Pads were SHOT (as is a lot of stuff on my bike) so this video helped a lot to select the right pads!
I live in the same area as you and I definitely prefer resin forsure!! I had the Paul Klampers on my gravel bike and was super bummed about the braking performance. Once I put on resin pads they work sooo well!
Must be the riding style. I go through 2-3 metallic rear pads sets and one front set per year and find the resins unsafe when I need to stop. Maybe the Zee/Saint have a different feel. I am either max braking or off the brakes more than average riders and run the largest rotors allowed F/R. If I can't lock up my brakes with one finger at any time I don't trust them to stop me. Like you said...personal preference. Also, I buy bulk China metallic pads and find them as good or better then factory Shimanos at a fraction of the price. Only run Shimano rotors though. They are consistent though wear out quickly. Absolutely can not stand Sram brakes. No way No how. Hate them. P.S brake noise with metallic pads is 100% definitely installation or contamination not the pads.
I read a blog post on Shimano's site that said some of their pros would run a combination setup in each caliper. So a metallic on the inner piston and a resin on the outer. I forget now the reasoning but something to chew on.
I'm a Shimano guy for both MTB and Road brakes and I found that upgrading rotors for thicker ones solved most of the drawbacks of metallic pads. I don't need organic pads anymore.
@@gammelgemse 147 grams for a Sram HS2 and 127 grams for a Magura Storm HC rotor both in 160 compared to 110 grams for a fragile Shimano MT900 rotor. If that's your definition of «much heavier»... I invite you to reconsider your priorities when it comes to weight savings.
@@anthonyhebert-trudeau6995 Switched to Sintered pads on my rear entry-level Shimano brake, along with upgrading the rotor from Shimano RT54 to SRAM HS2 (both 160 mm), and the difference has been like night and day!
I like the organic pads. They don't have as much bite but seem to run silent for me. Never any screeching or grinding noise I get with the metallic pads.
I switched to semi metallic from the stock resin pads on my mt201 brakes. Sanded the rotors with 180 grit and cleaned with acetone (i think. Here in Norway it's called "red spirit." Its what i had on hand.). And i noticed right away even before bedding there was an improvement in braking performance. Braking is highly subjective and it pays to experiment.
Same here - i find the semi-metalic pads to be best of both worlds. Better bite, less squeky. I havent yet noticed any downside (i dont remember the price, but as i ride Hope E4 and V4, price is not much of a factor anyways).
On alpine descending with luggage I had trouble on many descents with fade which caused me to have to grab my brakes like crazy to stop. Since I’ve got metallic pads I’ve not had a problem.
TLDR: Resin pads is definitely the way to go for people who want to avoid brake squeal at all cost... Even if this means occasionally plowing head-first into a concrete barrier or another type of obstacle due to the lack of stopping power!
Another well done vid! Check out the Truckerco semi-metallic pads. I use them on my 2 piston Deore's (aluminum plated), and 4 piston SLX's (they only make them in a steel plated). It really is the best of both worlds, you get that resin initial bite but no brake fade. My trails in VA don't require much sustained braking either. but I do a lot of short hard braking. Every now and then, when I go to the bike park, I don't need to switch to a straight metallic pad, unless I really wanted to.
@@do-ineedtosay723 No noise, they sound just like resin pads, but you can see the metallic "threads" in the pad material, and they have more power than resin, just not as much as pure metallic. My local trails get closed by the various parks, when it's wet, so I can't say how they perform in wet conditions.
It's interesting about squealing brakes.. I had a bike with Magura MT5s, factory resin pads up front & Galfer black metalic at back, & i hardly noticed any squealing in regular 500m descents, both in dry & post rain on wet hardpack.. Then i bought a new 2nd hand YT Tues with SRAM Codes, resin pads f/r, & i noticed the brake fade & i noticed squealing due to classic lack of SRAM stopping power.. Then before i sold my old bike i swapped the brakes over, Magura on the new bike & SRAM Code onto the old.. And pretty much silent brakes again.. The only time ive noticed squealy brakes is times where after a week of rain the trail is so wet & muddy that you have to modulate the whole way down cos there's litterally no traction, your'e squirreling the whole way down & you have to run super low pressure.. Other than that i havnt noticed loud noisy brakes, wether resin or metalic.. Except for when ive had a contaminated rotor.. I think sometimes it comes down to people not bedding in their rotor/pads properly, or cleaning their rotor occasionally with brake cleaner. Or maybe braking technique, grabbing or dragging their brakes rather than modulating them as much as possible.. My constant irrational/rational fear is using my brakes too much & wearing my pads & having no ability to brake haha, so i instinctively modulate.. I think modulation is key to less noisy braking..
If you're still out there, maybe you can answer this for me. Your video was very informative and well done but how do I determine what kind of pads are on my bike now if I don't know? I know the backing plates come painted different colors, but it seems to me that the pads themselves have three distinctly different looks. How do I tell what I have?
I just switched to "Cycle1st" brake pads.... they are ceramic, Kevlar and cooper.... so far I really like them.... this is on a road bike where at times I hit insane speeds.... 😀
I have always just defaulted to metallic pads and have been influenced to just keep using metallic. I think that’s a good analysis and I should try resin pads again. I have tried them before but it’s been such a long time and I can’t remember any difference in feel.
I just ordered a pretty nice set of tektro hydraulic brakes and upgraded my bicycle they came with brand new brake pads I'm not sure what kind they are but they stopped me pretty good.
about the metal pads they last longer yes, but your break disc does not i had metal pads for about 1 year now i just commute and joy ride on a trek hybrid fitted with Shimano XTR BR-M9000 XC break set and Shimano XTR SM-RT99 rotors. at £50 each rotor i be sticking to resin for durability of the rear rotor its really eaten into it. and been hydraulic breaks for what im doing makes no different to me. it stops when i want had both pads in. also sometimes you get the ticking sound of the metal pads just clipping against the rotor normally after heavy breaking. can be annoying
I have a resin pad on the back. The brakes wont stop the wheel and it squeals at the slightest of pressure and all the way after that. Im trying sintered
I got converted.v brakes do great things but if your modulating your speed on a steep downhill I've seen some of the cheap ones turn to melting crayons. Of course it was on the cheapest bikes evers
Resin pads all the way, I think a lot of riders go for sintered, because the added expense, makes the them think they must be better than the cheaper resin pads. I agree with all your comments, which for me, makes resin the best pad material for the type of riding that I do.❤
Here in the UK, I've destroyed a set of resin pads in 3 hours of riding. The silty, sloppy mud just grinds them to the backing too quickly. Thankfully metallic last a few times longer.
Thanks. I'm watching it because I've got Shimano hydraulic MT200 brakes that are resin pads only, and being extremely disappointed by their performance. My old Shimano BR-M375 mechanical disk brakes can lock my wheels with 160mm rotors, and MT200 is maybe 70% as good with 203mm rotors. It makes me question hydraulic brakes in general, what is all the hype about... Brakes are not adjustable, can't move pads closer to rotor, have to deal with oil with zero benefits. Will try some semi metallic pads before I will put my mechanical disk brakes back.
The MT200 are just really terrible brakes. They are Shimano's entry level MTB, so they're popular on bike builds where the manufacturer wants to get the build cost down. I have them on my Polygon Siskiu D7 and nothing makes them good. Bigger rotors: 160/180 -> 180/203; bleed and re-bleed etc; move to ceramic pads. Everything improved them, but nothing made them something that you want to trust in the steeps. Hydraulic brakes are awesome. The MT200 are not. The only real solution is an upgrade. Even the MT400, that my partner has on her XC bike, are night-and-day better.
I find that the best choice for me is using dual piston mechanical disc brakes on my MTB. Simple design, very reliable, cheap to work on and maintain, good modulation and great stopping power if your hand grip strength is average or above. I use two fingers to operate each brake. I don't do crazy mountain descents though.
Just got some AGPTEK Semi-metal brake pad, contains red copper fibre and Kevlar fibre to increase heat dissipation and wear resistance, 4 Pairs for £9 off ebay. When this comment gets a 6 month old comment on it and I'll let you know what I think.
LOL , i mix and match on my motorcycles... sintered on one side and ceramic on the other. Best of all worlds esp price (1/2 of my pads are hand me downs due to uneven wear on one side)
Have to disagree on the longevity of resin pads, on my e-bike I can get through a set in a few weeks by which point the resin has started crumbling and my pistons are almost fully extended. My sintered pads last well over a year for the most part. The screaming brake problem is definitely an issue though, I hate it and find myself riding the brake for a few seconds to heat the pads and rotors, drying them out. I have a short but very steep descent by my house and by the time I get to the bottom on resin pads, they have nothing left to give. With the sintered pads, I find that they work just as well as when they were at the top except there is noticeable pressure on the callipers from the fluid temperature rising.
Well…you definitely aren’t a brake pad engineer. You probably just confused a ton of people. The material characteristics that you “personally feel” which you are referencing for your advice is different from engineering data for brake pad design lol. At least you said it was your opinion, but at the end. Dude…CERAMIC pads are know for squealing…metallic/semi-metallic are not. Literally the exact opposite of correct information.
I am looking for a brake pads that works really well in the rain (looking for the stopping power as same as when in dry conditions ) and offer the best stoping power, what should I chose?
@newfinishautospa maybe relax and do your research before coming on so strong. This video is comparing resin and metallic pads. Metallic pads are 100% known to be louder than resin. Ceramic pads are a different story, but still not as loud as metallic can be. Cheers
Definitely the best and most concise and common sense views I’ve heard on this topic. Good job thank you.
I'm opposite, I've never noticed this warm up period or noise from metallic pads (unless when wet), they work flawlessly,. However my experience with resin pads is the brake fade and glazing. Once it happens, the rest of your ride is over.
Oh bliss so little rain, my dream place. I'm in the UK and we get more like 300 days of rain.
Thanks for this video dude, I'm doing my first MTB build and I bought a used bike. Pads were SHOT (as is a lot of stuff on my bike) so this video helped a lot to select the right pads!
I appreciate the straightforward comparison. Just what I was looking for.
Any thoughts on ceramic pads? How does their performance differ from Sintered Metallic, semi-metallic or Resin pads?
I live in the same area as you and I definitely prefer resin forsure!!
I had the Paul Klampers on my gravel bike and was super bummed about the braking performance. Once I put on resin pads they work sooo well!
Must be the riding style. I go through 2-3 metallic rear pads sets and one front set per year and find the resins unsafe when I need to stop. Maybe the Zee/Saint have a different feel. I am either max braking or off the brakes more than average riders and run the largest rotors allowed F/R. If I can't lock up my brakes with one finger at any time I don't trust them to stop me. Like you said...personal preference. Also, I buy bulk China metallic pads and find them as good or better then factory Shimanos at a fraction of the price. Only run Shimano rotors though. They are consistent though wear out quickly. Absolutely can not stand Sram brakes. No way No how. Hate them. P.S brake noise with metallic pads is 100% definitely installation or contamination not the pads.
Link for the China pads?
I read a blog post on Shimano's site that said some of their pros would run a combination setup in each caliper. So a metallic on the inner piston and a resin on the outer. I forget now the reasoning but something to chew on.
Yea some do that since the inner pad tends to wear faster than the outer.
I'm a Shimano guy for both MTB and Road brakes and I found that upgrading rotors for thicker ones solved most of the drawbacks of metallic pads. I don't need organic pads anymore.
But shimano rotors all come in the same thickness? 🤔
@@gammelgemse Yes, but I have Magura Storm HC and Sram HS2 rotors that are 2mm thich. They are also much cheaper than the MT900 rotors.
@@anthonyhebert-trudeau6995 interesting option, and presumably much heavier?
@@gammelgemse 147 grams for a Sram HS2 and 127 grams for a Magura Storm HC rotor both in 160 compared to 110 grams for a fragile Shimano MT900 rotor. If that's your definition of «much heavier»... I invite you to reconsider your priorities when it comes to weight savings.
@@anthonyhebert-trudeau6995 Switched to Sintered pads on my rear entry-level Shimano brake, along with upgrading the rotor from Shimano RT54 to SRAM HS2 (both 160 mm), and the difference has been like night and day!
I like the organic pads. They don't have as much bite but seem to run silent for me. Never any screeching or grinding noise I get with the metallic pads.
Pretty much agree 100% 👌
The screech is a *big* issue, here. Semi-metallics work decently, *if they can be had.*
I switched to semi metallic from the stock resin pads on my mt201 brakes. Sanded the rotors with 180 grit and cleaned with acetone (i think. Here in Norway it's called "red spirit." Its what i had on hand.). And i noticed right away even before bedding there was an improvement in braking performance. Braking is highly subjective and it pays to experiment.
Same here - i find the semi-metalic pads to be best of both worlds. Better bite, less squeky. I havent yet noticed any downside (i dont remember the price, but as i ride Hope E4 and V4, price is not much of a factor anyways).
On alpine descending with luggage I had trouble on many descents with fade which caused me to have to grab my brakes like crazy to stop. Since I’ve got metallic pads I’ve not had a problem.
You’re the ideal candidate for metallic pads!
I've been running mixed pads per caliper for years: sintered for the inner pad and resin/semi-metallic for the outer pad.
I wanna learn why you mixed these
@@chillipepperonifor real 😂
TLDR: Resin pads is definitely the way to go for people who want to avoid brake squeal at all cost... Even if this means occasionally plowing head-first into a concrete barrier or another type of obstacle due to the lack of stopping power!
Lmao
Lol Metallica🤘
lol omg
How about organic pads, bigger rotors, and electric Regenerative Braking?
Perhaps mixing resin in the back and metallic in the front ?
How is your SLX brakes holding up now? Are you still using it and is it still good? Planning to get SLX to upgrade my MT200
Fullerton and Anaheim Hills! If only you knew the adventures I've had on those trails 😅
Was using scintered for years and the squealing never stopped. Switched to resin and the squealing has disappeared completely
Another well done vid! Check out the Truckerco semi-metallic pads. I use them on my 2 piston Deore's (aluminum plated), and 4 piston SLX's (they only make them in a steel plated). It really is the best of both worlds, you get that resin initial bite but no brake fade.
My trails in VA don't require much sustained braking either. but I do a lot of short hard braking. Every now and then, when I go to the bike park, I don't need to switch to a straight metallic pad, unless I really wanted to.
Thx for the tip!
@Jonny Mej RVA: How noisy are those semi-metallic pads?
*
@@do-ineedtosay723 No noise, they sound just like resin pads, but you can see the metallic "threads" in the pad material, and they have more power than resin, just not as much as pure metallic.
My local trails get closed by the various parks, when it's wet, so I can't say how they perform in wet conditions.
It's interesting about squealing brakes.. I had a bike with Magura MT5s, factory resin pads up front & Galfer black metalic at back, & i hardly noticed any squealing in regular 500m descents, both in dry & post rain on wet hardpack.. Then i bought a new 2nd hand YT Tues with SRAM Codes, resin pads f/r, & i noticed the brake fade & i noticed squealing due to classic lack of SRAM stopping power.. Then before i sold my old bike i swapped the brakes over, Magura on the new bike & SRAM Code onto the old.. And pretty much silent brakes again.. The only time ive noticed squealy brakes is times where after a week of rain the trail is so wet & muddy that you have to modulate the whole way down cos there's litterally no traction, your'e squirreling the whole way down & you have to run super low pressure.. Other than that i havnt noticed loud noisy brakes, wether resin or metalic.. Except for when ive had a contaminated rotor.. I think sometimes it comes down to people not bedding in their rotor/pads properly, or cleaning their rotor occasionally with brake cleaner. Or maybe braking technique, grabbing or dragging their brakes rather than modulating them as much as possible.. My constant irrational/rational fear is using my brakes too much & wearing my pads & having no ability to brake haha, so i instinctively modulate.. I think modulation is key to less noisy braking..
Thanks so much man🙏
If you're still out there, maybe you can answer this for me. Your video was very informative and well done but how do I determine what kind of pads are on my bike now if I don't know? I know the backing plates come painted different colors, but it seems to me that the pads themselves have three distinctly different looks. How do I tell what I have?
Damn dude stop flexing your great weather!! 😂 (Subscribed)
😀 we’re melting in July.. 🥵
I love that video clip at 3:05. It looks like you're emerging from darkness to heaven!
*
Went OTB with Shimano brakes and metallic pads. Maybe the bite would be less stiff in SRAM
I just switched to "Cycle1st" brake pads.... they are ceramic, Kevlar and cooper.... so far I really like them.... this is on a road bike where at times I hit insane speeds.... 😀
I have always just defaulted to metallic pads and have been influenced to just keep using metallic. I think that’s a good analysis and I should try resin pads again. I have tried them before but it’s been such a long time and I can’t remember any difference in feel.
i weigh a lot and live in a wet environment.
the extra weight also heats the pads up much faster.
Is metallic pads the same as steel pads?? I have tektro m275 hydraulic brakes and was wanting to get more of a bite someone mentioned steel thanks??
I just ordered a pretty nice set of tektro hydraulic brakes and upgraded my bicycle they came with brand new brake pads I'm not sure what kind they are but they stopped me pretty good.
about the metal pads they last longer yes, but your break disc does not i had metal pads for about 1 year now i just commute and joy ride on a trek hybrid fitted with Shimano XTR BR-M9000 XC break set and Shimano XTR SM-RT99 rotors. at £50 each rotor i be sticking to resin for durability of the rear rotor its really eaten into it. and been hydraulic breaks for what im doing makes no different to me. it stops when i want had both pads in. also sometimes you get the ticking sound of the metal pads just clipping against the rotor normally after heavy breaking. can be annoying
I have a resin pad on the back. The brakes wont stop the wheel and it squeals at the slightest of pressure and all the way after that. Im trying sintered
Sounds like you need to bleed your brakes
Is that bike frame on our wall a Kona or Santa Cruz ..
Above the workbench? Specialized
Rubber for me - rim brakes FTW ! 🤪
Nice. “Rim brakes ARE disc brakes,” right?
@@TheBikeSauce yes! 😂
I got converted.v brakes do great things but if your modulating your speed on a steep downhill I've seen some of the cheap ones turn to melting crayons. Of course it was on the cheapest bikes evers
@@TheBikeSauceI love my carbon discs
Resin pads all the way, I think a lot of riders go for sintered, because the added expense, makes the them think they must be better than the cheaper resin pads.
I agree with all your comments, which for me, makes resin the best pad material for the type of riding that I do.❤
My brake pads don't even stop my bike dunno what to do i did everything
Did you bed them properly?
For the only occasional braking of XC riding, resin is just fine. 😌
Agreed. Or if you're hardcore and just never brake on a DH bike
Anyone running one type in the rear and another type in the front?
Here in the UK, I've destroyed a set of resin pads in 3 hours of riding. The silty, sloppy mud just grinds them to the backing too quickly. Thankfully metallic last a few times longer.
Holy smokes, you tore through them. I guess sloppy conditions will do that
Yep...organic pads can be like cream cheese in UK conditions...sintered is the only real option for anything but summer over here...
Ceramic?
Try Galfer pads. Best of both worlds. I hate metallic pads.
Thanks. I'm watching it because I've got Shimano hydraulic MT200 brakes that are resin pads only, and being extremely disappointed by their performance. My old Shimano BR-M375 mechanical disk brakes can lock my wheels with 160mm rotors, and MT200 is maybe 70% as good with 203mm rotors. It makes me question hydraulic brakes in general, what is all the hype about... Brakes are not adjustable, can't move pads closer to rotor, have to deal with oil with zero benefits. Will try some semi metallic pads before I will put my mechanical disk brakes back.
The MT200 are just really terrible brakes. They are Shimano's entry level MTB, so they're popular on bike builds where the manufacturer wants to get the build cost down.
I have them on my Polygon Siskiu D7 and nothing makes them good. Bigger rotors: 160/180 -> 180/203; bleed and re-bleed etc; move to ceramic pads. Everything improved them, but nothing made them something that you want to trust in the steeps.
Hydraulic brakes are awesome. The MT200 are not. The only real solution is an upgrade. Even the MT400, that my partner has on her XC bike, are night-and-day better.
I find that the best choice for me is using dual piston mechanical disc brakes on my MTB. Simple design, very reliable, cheap to work on and maintain, good modulation and great stopping power if your hand grip strength is average or above. I use two fingers to operate each brake. I don't do crazy mountain descents though.
Metallic all the way. As for noise I know how to stop that.
The pro's run 1x resin and 1x metallic in each caliper
🤘
Just got some AGPTEK Semi-metal brake pad, contains red copper fibre and Kevlar fibre to increase heat dissipation and wear resistance, 4 Pairs for £9 off ebay. When this comment gets a 6 month old comment on it and I'll let you know what I think.
LOL , i mix and match on my motorcycles... sintered on one side and ceramic on the other.
Best of all worlds esp price (1/2 of my pads are hand me downs due to uneven wear on one side)
Right on. Yea some run metallic on the inner and resin on the outer. Never had reason to try it, but it makes sense
Have to disagree on the longevity of resin pads, on my e-bike I can get through a set in a few weeks by which point the resin has started crumbling and my pistons are almost fully extended. My sintered pads last well over a year for the most part. The screaming brake problem is definitely an issue though, I hate it and find myself riding the brake for a few seconds to heat the pads and rotors, drying them out.
I have a short but very steep descent by my house and by the time I get to the bottom on resin pads, they have nothing left to give. With the sintered pads, I find that they work just as well as when they were at the top except there is noticeable pressure on the callipers from the fluid temperature rising.
Metallic, not even close.
You look like this kid Louis from my middle school
GOAT comment
Well…you definitely aren’t a brake pad engineer. You probably just confused a ton of people. The material characteristics that you “personally feel” which you are referencing for your advice is different from engineering data for brake pad design lol. At least you said it was your opinion, but at the end. Dude…CERAMIC pads are know for squealing…metallic/semi-metallic are not. Literally the exact opposite of correct information.
I am looking for a brake pads that works really well in the rain (looking for the stopping power as same as when in dry conditions ) and offer the best stoping power, what should I chose?
@newfinishautospa maybe relax and do your research before coming on so strong. This video is comparing resin and metallic pads. Metallic pads are 100% known to be louder than resin. Ceramic pads are a different story, but still not as loud as metallic can be. Cheers