A very nice video on these weathering techniques - i have been making 1/16 armor for years and still have lots of trouble getting the techniques right! For those not born with an eagle eye for colors and detail like me, there's an awful lot of starting over - and even on a 1/16 scale model there's a limit to how many mistakes i can make since there is no question of stripping off or sanding off the mistakes! I have taken to making test bed sacrificial models to practice on before i put the technique on the "good" model - and this saves a lot of do-overs.
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Thank you for this tutorial. I couldn't imagine applying washes, neither the instructions on the site were helpful. But now it seems fairly easy. Requires patience, but it is odable. Cheers for this video!
Great tutorial Carlos and thank you for doing it. You really have a good way with tutorials and they come out great with clear and understandable directions. Take care my friend.
Carlos: Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with those of us so eager to learn. Your videos are top notch. Can't wait to get back to my bench and try some of your techniques. Build on!
fantastic demo of the techniques you are using, this was very interesting and the result is awesome carlos :) well done, the video is extremely professionally made.
Thank you my friend! Much appreciated! :) They are simple techniques and they take longer than the usual liberally applied wash, but I think that for extreme weathering you need to control every layer in such manner, otherwise the model will become too dark and heavy. I wanted to have a better video but I had some issues with the camera and sound during editing. I'm about to solve those troubles in a week, I already have the camera, now all I need is a good mic. :)
Thanks Carlos, This is a clear tutorial. Excellent info. Could you speak on making your own enamel washes? What product do you use? What's the ratio of dilution?
I don't think you mentioned - did you clear coat the model before applying the washes? Gloss? Satin? Or are you just getting the capillary action from the white spirit you apply first? Thanks
I did clear coat the model with satin varnish after applying the decals in my opinion it is always good policy to seal everything before starting the weathering stages. In my experience both gloss and satin varnish work well, but the matt varnish not so much, it grips the excess pigment far too much and makes the tidying up difficult. Thanks for watching! :)
Great pin wash technique and finish....Carlos would you recommend applying the darker pin wash before adding a dust effect? I want to control the wash as well, stronger in some areas and lighter in others. Thanks!
Carlos, this was a great video and tutorial. I found myself very drawn into your explanation of the technique. I hope to see more of these in the future. Model On!
Carlos Mendes Carlos what type of satin clear can be used , does it have to be enamel clear coat or can water based clear be used ? Thanx for sharing this , its fantastic
parabot2 I always use acrylic Satin varnish and wouldn't advise using enamel clear for this step, because you will be using a lot of White Spirit. I hope that helps! :)
Nice tutorial...Ive experienced some parts of the model coming loose from the mineral spirit attacks the glue, after applying the wash..also AK interactive wash, leaves a gummy and sticky..almost like syrup residue behind that lasts too long to dry before the final clear coat... Maybe Im doing something wrong, but Im using exactly the same products shown here...No discredit to AK, but that is what Im finding out..thanks
Hi Carlos Great tutorial and very useful I live in a country where white spirit doesnt exist. Ive looked everywhere and the only thing i could find is "rectified Turbentine" do you think that would work for a wash? I am worried about putting it on a model and having it dissolve through the varnish and colors or ruin the model im also not sure how it would react with the enamel wash. Appreciate your help
Hussein El Kaissy Hi Hussein, thank you! Sorry for the very late reply. I have thought about this matter and I fear that you are right, turpentine might ruin everything for you. However I would still experiment before dismissing it completely. Take an old kit and apply a very solid coat of primer, this will serve to protect the bonds between the glued parts, then I would apply Acrylic paint followed by acrylic satin coats, two at least in order to protect the paint job. Then I would try it with oil paints and rectified turpentine or a similar product, just remember, you can use any solvent for oils and the mildest grade you can find. Then try small amounts of the application and method on a hidden part of the model, such as under the mais hull for example. This might take a few attempts until you get the hang of it but It should work well. :)
Carlos Mendes thanks carlos for your reply, i tried the "rectified turpentine" with the enamel wash and i worked perfectly when applying your technique and as the acrylic below it is protected by a mat varnish it wasnt damaged. I used it on my last model and the results were amazing. Thanks Again Cheers
Olá Carlos É bom ver um compatriota com um bom know-how numa actividade que estou a recupererar (há mais de 20 anos que não monto e pinto um modelo militar)
Hi Carlos watched alot of your vid's and others on yt,great work,my friend,just makes me laugh,how when people take the time to film and produce videos that some,dis-like it,you produce some of the best work on afv's iv'e seen,jealousy is a terrible thing,so sad for the people that post,this negative vote,anyway greetings from the uk, best regards Allan
chavey65 Thank you for your very kind and encouraging words Allan. I know what you mean, but it does not discourage me, mainly because people like you take the time to let me know that they enjoy what I do. At the end of the day It's 1 out of 88 votes that is negative, to me that means I've done more good than bad, thus I'm happy! :)
Carlos, hablas español? Si no lo haces, I try in english. I read in the comments, you use a satin coat of barnish befores the wheatering, but the base color, prime and camo, are enamels or acrilics? I subscribe your channel, I like so much this technique!
Excellent video, Carlos. Thank you for sharing this. Some questions if I may? Firstly, as you are initially moistening the surface with clean white spirit, do you need to have applied a gloss clear coat to the model before starting your pin wash? Second, how long do you let the wash dry before you went over the hatch for the second time? Finally, what is the wonderful music that you used during the video? I'm going to have the bass groove and guitar chops running through my head for a while now :) BTW, the King Tiger looks fantastic. I love the modulated 3-tone camo scheme. Very subtle, in an almost subliminal way.
Thank you John! You may indeed. I usually work with satin or gloss coats between weathering steps, keep them as thin as possible, they help the flow of the washes and further layers of effects. When I complete a layer I leave it to dry overnight so that your previous work isn't affected by the second application of the wash. The music is from the youtube audio library you can find it under your channel settings - creator studio. I hope it helped :)
@@reelmesh Hello! Can I protect the enamel paint with an enamel coat? And Can I use enamel washes on it after the clear coat? I use revell enamel paints and clear gloss.
Hey Carlos ! Do you use AKi "Normal" White Spirit or the Odourless White spirit ? I have been getting reactions... with AKi paints when I use the Normal White spirit.... and I am concerned its attacking the FUTURE and the Aki paints... while the Lesser aggressive Odourless one is fine !!! I am not 100% certain my White spirit is the original ? as I might have used Varsol to top it up ! but just wanted to check with you ! Later dude !
Norm Lajoie I use Windsor and Newton Artist's White Spirit, you can also use Sansodor which is the odourless type, I stopped using the non artists grade WS because it was too strong and I got some nasty reactions like the one you describe besides breaking the bonds between parts much faster. As a rule of thumb, I only use artists grade solvents and paints, the reason being that for weathering purposes you need control and quality, thus stronger solvents are reserved for cleaning brushes and containers. I also stopped using future to seal the layers, I now use vallejo satin varnish, i found out that future can react with the different materials and processes we use to weather the models.
Hi Carlos I've a quick question about the applicaton. I don't have any varnish to apply to my acrylic painted panther because I don't ow an airbrush and spray cans are expensive, so if I used this technique on my panther and its acrylic surface would it be damaged? I really want to achieve nice techniques like you've done but im worried I'll damage the model
I don't think you will have a problem executing this technique on top of acrylics, the reason being that they are two completely distinct paint systems with many and opposing chemical differences.
Carlos Mendes ah ok, will it still be effective then even though there isn't a gloss coat to help the wash flow? Thanks for the quick reply by the way really appreciate it :)
I think so, of course it depends on how matte the paints you use are. Tamiya paint for example is extremely matte and I recommend extra care in the application. But for example, Vallejo model color is much more satin. So it will depend on that. Proceed with caution and good common sense I would say. :)
Carlos Mendes its funny you mention those two paints because the base was sprayed with tamiya and the camo was brushed with Vallejo haha. Thanks for the advice! I'll send you a photo once its complete for your judgement if you'd like
Interesting... I tested AK and MIG enamel washes on the same model and must say sompared to MIG the AK are rubbish. Difficult to blend, dry to quickly and stick too well to the surface. The MIG ones flow way better.
Thanks Carlos. Always find watching tutorials I pick up new tips. Excellent video
Thanks Mark! I appreciate it. :)
A very nice video on these weathering techniques - i have been making 1/16 armor for years and still have lots of trouble getting the techniques right! For those not born with an eagle eye for colors and detail like me, there's an awful lot of starting over - and even on a 1/16 scale model there's a limit to how many mistakes i can make since there is no question of stripping off or sanding off the mistakes! I have taken to making test bed sacrificial models to practice on before i put the technique on the "good" model - and this saves a lot of do-overs.
Thank you for this tutorial. I couldn't imagine applying washes, neither the instructions on the site were helpful. But now it seems fairly easy. Requires patience, but it is odable. Cheers for this video!
Great tutorial Carlos and thank you for doing it. You really have a good way with tutorials and they come out great with clear and understandable directions.
Take care my friend.
Thank you Stefan! I appreciate the kind words my friend. Take care as well. :)
Carlos: Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with those of us so eager to learn. Your videos are top notch. Can't wait to get back to my bench and try some of your techniques. Build on!
fantastic demo of the techniques you are using, this was very interesting and the result is awesome carlos :) well done, the video is extremely professionally made.
Thank you my friend! Much appreciated! :)
They are simple techniques and they take longer than the usual liberally applied wash, but I think that for extreme weathering you need to control every layer in such manner, otherwise the model will become too dark and heavy.
I wanted to have a better video but I had some issues with the camera and sound during editing. I'm about to solve those troubles in a week, I already have the camera, now all I need is a good mic. :)
Loverly how to, I'm still looking through older videos and enjoyed this one. As always great looking models.
a very good teacher thanks for the very good tutorials
Thanks so much Carlos I learn so much from your techniques and now I understand the mistakes i made before
Keep it up Sir!
Thank you Billy! I am glad that my videos help you to improve your skills, that is a reward in itself. :)
Carlos, thanks for this superb vid, it has helped me a great deal seeing it done and explained in such a understanding way.
This was as informative as it is relaxing. Thanks for the video.
Being new to modelling I found this very useful and informative :)
Thanks Carlos, This is a clear tutorial. Excellent info. Could you speak on making your own enamel washes? What product do you use? What's the ratio of dilution?
I don't think you mentioned - did you clear coat the model before applying the washes? Gloss? Satin? Or are you just getting the capillary action from the white spirit you apply first? Thanks
I did clear coat the model with satin varnish after applying the decals in my opinion it is always good policy to seal everything before starting the weathering stages. In my experience both gloss and satin varnish work well, but the matt varnish not so much, it grips the excess pigment far too much and makes the tidying up difficult. Thanks for watching! :)
@@reelmesh Thanks Carlos, any advice on the satin/gloss coat? does the Tamiya clear (acrylic) works? thanks!
Great video! The result looks awesome and the video is very professionally made indeed!
Thank you! :)
Great tutorial, Carlos. Thanks for sharing. I'll try to improve my weathering skills with this.
was this model gloss varnish before you applied the washes?
great video
+stephen gache Satin varnish.
I used Satin varnish too, but all i got is frosting effect and i have no idea how to fix it
Excellent tutorial Carlos. Thank you.
Thank you Tommy! :)
Great pin wash technique and finish....Carlos would you recommend applying the darker pin wash before adding a dust effect? I want to control the wash as well, stronger in some areas and lighter in others. Thanks!
Excellent Carlos :) Thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial. Bookmarked :):)
Thank you Switcher! More will follow as soon as I have the time. :)
I hear you good buddy. It is summer enjoy and stay well my friend :)
Carlos, this was a great video and tutorial. I found myself very drawn into your explanation of the technique. I hope to see more of these in the future. Model On!
Russell Gosselin Thanks Russell, I'm planning on doing a series using this model so that people can relate to the same model all along the process.
Carlos Mendes Carlos what type of satin clear can be used , does it have to be enamel clear coat or can water based clear be used ?
Thanx for sharing this , its fantastic
parabot2 I always use acrylic Satin varnish and wouldn't advise using enamel clear for this step, because you will be using a lot of White Spirit. I hope that helps! :)
Carlos Mendes Thanx , this is a big help Carlos
must acrylic wash also go oni a clear gloss ĉoat? anything beside future be used for gloss
So I’m using enamel paints on my models and want to use panel liner, how do I clean the panel liner with out removing any paint?
Hi there. Did you apply any sort of clear coats before washing ? If so, is it acrylic or enamel ?
thank you for the video. it gave me the way to use washes. again thank you and great video.
Nice tutorial...Ive experienced some parts of the model coming loose from the mineral spirit attacks the glue, after applying the wash..also AK interactive wash, leaves a gummy and sticky..almost like syrup residue behind that lasts too long to dry before the final clear coat...
Maybe Im doing something wrong, but Im using exactly the same products shown here...No discredit to AK, but that is what Im finding out..thanks
Carlos any more builds or projects coming up ? Love the Vids Thank You !
can i apply the enamel wash from ak interactive on a layer of vallejo gloss varnish? is the enamel wash gonna damage the vallejo acrylic paint?
Hi Carlos
Great tutorial and very useful
I live in a country where white spirit doesnt exist.
Ive looked everywhere and the only thing i could find is "rectified Turbentine" do you think that would work for a wash? I am worried about putting it on a model and having it dissolve through the varnish and colors or ruin the model im also not sure how it would react with the enamel wash.
Appreciate your help
Hussein El Kaissy Hi Hussein, thank you! Sorry for the very late reply.
I have thought about this matter and I fear that you are right, turpentine might ruin everything for you.
However I would still experiment before dismissing it completely. Take an old kit and apply a very solid coat of primer, this will serve to protect the bonds between the glued parts, then I would apply Acrylic paint followed by acrylic satin coats, two at least in order to protect the paint job. Then I would try it with oil paints and rectified turpentine or a similar product, just remember, you can use any solvent for oils and the mildest grade you can find. Then try small amounts of the application and method on a hidden part of the model, such as under the mais hull for example. This might take a few attempts until you get the hang of it but It should work well. :)
Carlos Mendes thanks carlos for your reply, i tried the "rectified turpentine" with the enamel wash and i worked perfectly when applying your technique and as the acrylic below it is protected by a mat varnish it wasnt damaged.
I used it on my last model and the results were amazing.
Thanks Again
Cheers
Olá Carlos
É bom ver um compatriota com um bom know-how numa actividade que estou a recupererar (há mais de 20 anos que não monto e pinto um modelo militar)
Hi Carlos watched alot of your vid's and others on yt,great work,my friend,just makes me laugh,how when people take the time to film and produce videos that some,dis-like it,you produce some of the best work on afv's iv'e seen,jealousy is a terrible thing,so sad for the people that post,this negative vote,anyway greetings from the uk, best regards Allan
chavey65 Thank you for your very kind and encouraging words Allan. I know what you mean, but it does not discourage me, mainly because people like you take the time to let me know that they enjoy what I do. At the end of the day It's 1 out of 88 votes that is negative, to me that means I've done more good than bad, thus I'm happy! :)
Really informative video carlos. thank you for doing the video
Thank you! :)
Carlos, hablas español? Si no lo haces, I try in english. I read in the comments, you use a satin coat of barnish befores the wheatering, but the base color, prime and camo, are enamels or acrilics? I subscribe your channel, I like so much this technique!
Excellent video, Carlos. Thank you for sharing this.
Some questions if I may?
Firstly, as you are initially moistening the surface with clean white spirit, do you need to have applied a gloss clear coat to the model before starting your pin wash?
Second, how long do you let the wash dry before you went over the hatch for the second time?
Finally, what is the wonderful music that you used during the video? I'm going to have the bass groove and guitar chops running through my head for a while now :)
BTW, the King Tiger looks fantastic. I love the modulated 3-tone camo scheme. Very subtle, in an almost subliminal way.
Thank you John! You may indeed. I usually work with satin or gloss coats between weathering steps, keep them as thin as possible, they help the flow of the washes and further layers of effects.
When I complete a layer I leave it to dry overnight so that your previous work isn't affected by the second application of the wash.
The music is from the youtube audio library you can find it under your channel settings - creator studio.
I hope it helped :)
Carlos Mendes Thanks, Carlos. That explained it perfectly. :)
@@reelmesh Hello! Can I protect the enamel paint with an enamel coat? And Can I use enamel washes on it after the clear coat? I use revell enamel paints and clear gloss.
great tutorial Carlos, it is top notch :)
Thank you mate! I'm glad you liked it though the video was hindered by the camera and sound issues... :)
***** Thank you Pedro! :)
Thank you Carlos ! Well done mate !
Thank you Norm! I appreciate your feedback. :)
Hey Carlos !
Do you use AKi "Normal" White Spirit or the Odourless White spirit ? I have been getting reactions... with AKi paints when I use the Normal White spirit.... and I am concerned its attacking the FUTURE and the Aki paints... while the Lesser aggressive Odourless one is fine !!!
I am not 100% certain my White spirit is the original ? as I might have used Varsol to top it up ! but just wanted to check with you !
Later dude !
Norm Lajoie I use Windsor and Newton Artist's White Spirit, you can also use Sansodor which is the odourless type, I stopped using the non artists grade WS because it was too strong and I got some nasty reactions like the one you describe besides breaking the bonds between parts much faster.
As a rule of thumb, I only use artists grade solvents and paints, the reason being that for weathering purposes you need control and quality, thus stronger solvents are reserved for cleaning brushes and containers.
I also stopped using future to seal the layers, I now use vallejo satin varnish, i found out that future can react with the different materials and processes we use to weather the models.
nice tutorial there mate, very usefull indeed
Thank you! :)
Brilliant...Thank you Carlos greatly appreciated
Hi Carlos I've a quick question about the applicaton. I don't have any varnish to apply to my acrylic painted panther because I don't ow an airbrush and spray cans are expensive, so if I used this technique on my panther and its acrylic surface would it be damaged? I really want to achieve nice techniques like you've done but im worried I'll damage the model
I don't think you will have a problem executing this technique on top of acrylics, the reason being that they are two completely distinct paint systems with many and opposing chemical differences.
Carlos Mendes ah ok, will it still be effective then even though there isn't a gloss coat to help the wash flow? Thanks for the quick reply by the way really appreciate it :)
I think so, of course it depends on how matte the paints you use are. Tamiya paint for example is extremely matte and I recommend extra care in the application. But for example, Vallejo model color is much more satin. So it will depend on that. Proceed with caution and good common sense I would say. :)
Carlos Mendes its funny you mention those two paints because the base was sprayed with tamiya and the camo was brushed with Vallejo haha. Thanks for the advice! I'll send you a photo once its complete for your judgement if you'd like
Paul Leggett Ok Paul, I'd like that. :)
Hey Carlos! What's up mate? Long time no see!
Hello my friend, It's been too long indeed. But i'm back, just posted a channel update and i'll go from there. Thank you for the care brother!
Glad to hear all is good on your side of the pond ! and More Carlos Goodness is on the way !!! Yumm Take good care of yourself my friend!..
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Thank you! :)
Muito bom, obrigado, estava a fazer mal, muito esclarecedor.
TheLccorreia Obrigado! Ainda bem que foi útil. :)
Interesting...
I tested AK and MIG enamel washes on the same model and must say sompared to MIG the AK are rubbish. Difficult to blend, dry to quickly and stick too well to the surface. The MIG ones flow way better.
no gloss varnish first
Very long story !!!!