Clutch Puller Fail On NEW 2021Can Am Renegade 1000 (Don't Buy Junk Tools Rant)
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2021
- A substandard tool resulted in a Primary Clutch Removal FAIL on my new Can Am Renegade 1000. Check out some mud riding here: • Sometimes The Mud Hole...
You can never go wrong using quality tools. Especially when in comes to clutch pullers. Learn from my mistake and use an OEM or high-end aftermarket tool from a Clutch Manufacturer. Worst case is the threads on the crack being damaged, which will be an ultra expensive repair!!
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Puller uses different threads than the bolt. Just went through the same thing. I cut the end off the pulling tool and stuffed the hole full of bread and the ran it back in there and it popped right off
Thanks a lot for the video. It really helps out a lot. I also have one question I have the manual here It says that the crankshaft has to be locked with a special locking tool in order to make the primary come off.
I’ve seen a few videos of people taking their primary off and nobody locks the crankshaft so I’m a little confused. My dealer told me it doesn’t have to be locked, but I seen another video that said the proper way of doing it is to lock the crankshaft first.
Well sure that would be the most proper way to hold the crankshaft. But thousands of people use an impact with no issues. I would suggest there is a slim chance that the inner part of the primary is so tight that using a locking tool is the only way.
The other reason to hold the or lock the crank is when re-installing the clutch bolt and torqueing. But something strong to hold the primary clutch works just fine. Of course Can Am sells special holding tools. The Can Am clutches suck and this is one of the reasons why. Aftermarket ones make life much easier and better performance.
The best person to talk to at a dealer is an experienced tech, not the service/parts person.
Wow, Don! You're a strong fella to bend that puller like that! LOL Yep, I've always said "it's a rich man that can afford cheap tools!" I've always put a bit of "extra" high temp rtv on the outside of the secondary o-ring seal. don't know if it helps or not, but I've never had that one fail. You will get much higher exhaust temps running through mud like you do, which will heat up everything around the area including the seals till they're dry and brittle.
I know strong like bull!
Yes I put some RTV around the o-rings on the inner cover, as you, and a number of people have suggested. Its amazing how much crud was packed in the space...I make weird decisions when I'm tired from lack of sleep BTW.
Can’t stress how important it is to check all the hose clamps on the snorkel system. On my 2021 renegade I had loose hose clamp and separated pipe under the rhino horn but the worse was the pipe from the air box to throttle body was off throttle body and intake was caked with mud not what you wanna see inside you’re engine especially your brand new engine with less than 100 miles on it.
Darn that doesn't sound good. Ya you really need to go everything yourself, I have learned...
I just bent a puller trying to get my cv tech off my outlander. Going to have to get an even better puller…
Damn! Was it a Can Am puller?
@@ADVENTURESThisWay cv tech puller. I’m getting the can am puller next, it looks way beefier.
the only way to do it is to use the standard puller but fill the hole in the shaft with grease , then wrap thread tape around the thread on the puller and insert into hole. Now use an impact gun to turn the extractor bolt and the hydraulic pressure will pop off the inner clutch with a bang.
Pb blaster is the best! Geez that was tense there as you tried the brp puller. Don’t do that to us fans🥺
You got that right! It was tense, BUT there is always more to the story that didn't end up in the video. But all is good now...PB for the win
Hey guys just a little heads up,once your main bolts is out of primary take your geese gun and pump about 10 pumps of geese in the hole before installing puller ,Greene will basically hydro lock for say and come off way easier then hammering the end of the crank.
Yes Its called hydraulic pressure...
My question to you don is how do you get that box off with original floor boards on the machine ? Lol. You are a scientist my friend
The CVT cover? Remove the foot pegs...😎 1/4 ratchet
That could have turned ugly very quickly. Glad it didn't. I had to get the milwaukee impact to get my primary off of there. So I don't know how you did that with a ratchet and not break it.
i have pulled clutches off a number of times never an issue before
Did this happen to be the ACS clutch puller from Royal Distributing?
Dont remember the specific brand. But was from Royal
,do you know the part number for the OEM clutch puller?
Not off hand, any local dealer could find it easy or try Partzilla...
What clutch setup are you running?
STM 3RS with a Dalton black/violet spring in stock secondary...it rips
I can't believe how much that one pipe has rusted and started crumbling in 6 months.
Sucks to have the issue but it's also nice seeing a can am with the same issue can am people criticize polaris for.
Does Can-Am not warranty for that issue?
I have no idea what you are talking about...
@@ADVENTURESThisWay if you mean the rusty pipe, it's around 5:30 . If you mean the Polaris / Can-Am comment, don't be pretending Can-Am's are any better than polaris just because you switched sides lol. They both have issues because they are v-tein performers ;)
@@EC_ATV_Outdoors still don't know what you are referring to, the rusty pipe, but whatever man...let's see your videos of your Polaris??
@@ADVENTURESThisWay maybe it's just mud caked on?
Looks like a rusted/caked on mud exhaust pipe?
I hope you chased those threads before installing your primary bolt. Good bolt in damaged threads = damaged bolt and threads. AND your final torque won't be right. I just wanted to throw in a mechanics view. Like the videos. "Ride Hard and Be Safe" MN Bill
Thanks for the tips! And yes I chased the threads, as the rest of the story goes, the puller got stuck in the clutch. But I took it to the 'RIGHT person for the job" and all is good, thankfully
@@minnesotaxmr will do
@@ADVENTURESThisWay I'm glad it worked out. Keep making those videos. MN Bill
Pretty lucky there wasn’t damage done with that puller wow. 🦾
Oh, there is more to the story...but things worked out best case scenario..
I just got an 2018 3 days ago and my belt was slipping. I had the same problem with my clutch puller. Ran it in and something didn’t seem right so I took it back out. Never did get it off but I guess I’ll have to buy the more expensive one. I then took off my secondary and noticed that the guy before me broke the spreader bolt off in between the sheaves causing the secondary not to close all the way. Also noticed that the nipple deal on the spring was broke off. Will that cause any problems? I put it all back together and it feels fine. I’m not really sure how it’s supposed to feel tho.
Yes you definitely need to get that secondary repaired. That's unfortunate someone sold you that machine like that.
The Can Am clutch puller doesn't cost much actually
What’s with the elastic?
I know eh?
When you go in the mud, you never know what you'll come out with. A few weeks ago I came out with half a tie down. Those elastic, braid covered Canadian Tire ones from a hole that looked to be untouched in years.
Spare belt 😂😂🤘
You didn't include the most important part. THE REPAIR!
Took it to a specialty shop and they removed the puller and chased the threads
@@ADVENTURESThisWay I have a big ride coming up and a brand new clutch to put in and I was just looking for stuff to look for that I can fix while it's out
@@twigg5705 great idea
@@ADVENTURESThisWay so is that how you fix the inside CV case with a new o-ring?
@@twigg5705 no re-use the o-ring and add some RTV silicone to seal between the back and case
I did buy that crap and same thing happened. Junk tools suck 😎
Turns out local dealer usual has them in stock AND basically the same price...