Man, that was rough watching you work in this July heat here in Jersey 😢. Much respect especially when you show mistakes…that’s the instructor in you 👍👍🏆🏆
Im a young electrician that just started my own company last year. Ive still got a lot to learn, so thank you so much for sharing your work. Ive picked up a lot of little tricks from watching your videos. I did a service upgrade the other day and it kicked my butt. You make it look so easy! I respect and appreciate you Ron. And beautiful install as always!
In Texas we use a Bare # 6 Solid CU as the Grounding Electrode Conductor for Residential Service from 100 Amp up to 200 Amp.We also sleeve it 1/2 '' EMT or 1/2 '' Schedule 40 PVC sometimes to make it look better, if the Home Owner asks for it. And since the Water Meters are underground by the curb we are not required to install a bonding jumper at the meter. And we only have to install one 5/8'' Copper Brass Ground Rod near the Main Service Outside Disconnect. And just to let you know Ron , I'm not a '' Arm Chair '' Electrician ! I'm a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician/Sub Contractor with 56 years in theTrade, Residential & Commercial.
Very true what you said.....Do work others don't want to and you'll do well......I did exactly that and my working life was always successful. I was an electrician when I was not long out of high school and should have stayed in that line of work. I'm 76 and spent 30 years working on generators of all kinds and sizes for a generator service company. I just retired last year when my company was sold and my job got basically eliminated......Former customers still seek me out and I do a few jobs. I worked on RV generators mostly for quite a while and very few places out there even will touch them......This one was a pretty big job and with the heat we had you earned your money for sure.....Nice job...
This is a prime example of making it happen. It shows how every service upgrade can pose a lot of challenges hahah. Ron u need to get a little helper for all that crawling around and help you run that SER that must of been a good workout ahhaha.
Hey Ron, Milwaukee's been sending me tools to review on my channel for years. I'll see if I can put you in touch with the people who handle that. They aren't spending quite as much money on that program as they used to. It's sort of a lottery/performance-based thing these days, as far as who gets chosen to review a new tool, but you never know. It's good to start these relationships. I think you have one of the best electrical channels on UA-cam right now.
Fantastic work and video, makes me happy that there still good people out there that go the extra mile and top notch quality workmanship. And ur right Ron good ol fashioned hard work goes along way. My wife and I just recently retired to Florida from Michigan where I was a electrical lineman for 31 years and basically took every opportunity of O/T and we both worked 40+ hrs a week and raised r children and maintained our home. Now we r truly living in paradise and enjoying every single day. So hard work definitely pays off. 👍
Hi Ron! Great job on the service brother! It’s unbelievable how much prices went up on materials . It’s insane!! By the way, I prove the fans you had on your work table. How are they? What doesn’t Milwaukee make these days!! I could have used them Friday in a basement panel change out. Too humid on Long Island here. Have a great weekebd
Nice video Ron! I'm excited to be apart of each others online communities. I just found out that both of our companies are apart of the IEC. I'm actually a 2nd year student and I do that alongside my job and youtube channel. I just put up a meter/main this Thursday so it is really cool to see how you went about it. Would love to talk to you more about electrical work in the future!
Great job as always Ron I really like watching you work in a professional matter. I really hated to see you work in that heat, but it's not any better here in Florida 100's degree temperatures. Your the best!!! keep the videos coming 😀
Nice install during a really hot, humid week. I'm not sure if you're on 2023 yet, but the marking / labeling requirement for the emergency disconnect was clarified to dictate the color (red background with white text), and a minimum text height of 1/2". Could be a nice thing for you to start incorporating now so it's already part of your routine when it becomes enforced in your area.
Many folks don't realize a small work table to work from is one of the best tools to have. I carry a wood TV table -- looking for a next size up. Two fans...not fair ! I have one MW.
I was thinking about having my 100 amp service upgraded to 200amp here in New York and maybe add solar to help offset the cost but for now I will just watch your videos!
working on those old houses is an art form. Thanks for all of the informative, detailed videos. If you think of it, can you tell us how long a customer is out of power, on average, when you do a panel upgrade? Thanks either way!
Great looking service! Ive done a few mast services, and ive actually never cut the 2" rigid in a way that ive had to use a compression coupling (or cut new threads god forbid). Technically if you read in PSEGs redbook (or whatever color book it is now), they want you to use straps that go all the way though a framing member or masonry with a nut and washer securing it on the inside of the building. Ive never used them, and never seen them used, but still something thats in the book.
Hi Ron, I look forward to the 2nd part of this video. That was a crazy run back to the ATS, I'm guessing. I have a couple questions: Are you required to bond the natural gas to service and are you using 4/0 for your neutral in your service riser? Thank you for taking the time to put out these videos. I know it's a lot of work.
If you have natural gas appliances (like a furnace, or gas stove), the natural gas is bonded by the equipment grounding conductor of the circuit supplying power to the equipment. The natural gas pipe entering the home IS NOT PERMITTED to be used as a grounding electrode the way the copper water main is required by the code to be used as a grounding electrode. NEC 250.102
Great work Ron. Honest question here. Why is it #6 copper for the rods and #2 alum for water pipe? Also, can you just use the 2 new ground rods and not the water pipe? Or perhaps the water pipe and just one rod?
That comes with experience. By walking out the cable like I do before pulling it into the basement, it prevents the cable from getting kinked. It still could get snagged on something and get kinked but its less likely when you walk out the roll ahead of the pull.
Hey Ron, thank you for all your videos. I live in Bergen county. Just wired my own new build and passed rough-in inspection last week. Your videos have been a great help. I am an electrical PE but to install my own electrical was definitely a new experience. I am working on the service aspect now and was wondering if I could hole saw the PSEG 320A pan in a spot where there are no knockouts. It just would work better for my connection to two 200A Generac service rated ATS’s. Thanks in advance!
Yeah, unfortunately I do not think PSEG will allow you to cut-out your own knockouts in the meter enclosure. That's a utility rule. You could call the construction department and schedule an inspection with one of their supervisors but I do not think they're going to allow it. Good luck with that and I hope this helps!
Hey Ron, you were right, they wouldn’t let me drill. They said it would void the UL listing. Odd since the ATS enclosures have to be drilled; they only have one knockout.
One more question if you do not mind, I have a 350MCM copper feed on the line side of the meter pan. For the GEC, I plan to bury 5/8” rods 8’ min. apart and run #2 AWG in between. From there tap with #4 to each 200A ATS. I also have #4 jumpers to rebar and cold water. My question is, can I bond all three on the ground bus of one of the ATS’s or does it need to happen ahead? Thanks again for all your help.
The braces between the joists are so that when someone steps on or places a piece of furniture the joist shares the load to to the joists on either side to share the load. Nothing to do with earthquakes.
Could you have used your new riser to come out of meter can and then used threaded end of old cut riser for the 2 feet and the threaded couplimg that comes with them, thus saving having to buy the compression coupling? Also the bridgiing between floor joist is to keep the bottom of the floor joist from twisting.
Not a requirement for ground rods. The gas meter was nearby but I knew the main line came from the street, and not ion the direction of where I installed the ground rods.
I got a question, I thought there was a code about using metal EMT straps with PVC isn’t allowed? I don’t know if that’s just a Michigan thing, but I was just wondering? I’m a first year so I’m still learning lol.
When I had my meeting with the inspector to get approval for relocating the service drop I asked him point blank and he said as long as the meter portion can be lockable it was allowed. 5th jaw too, you know.
Ron, My ranch home built in 2011 has a 200 amp service, 20 circuit panel filled. I want to have a whole house surge protector installed. I may need a sub panel installed, can I get a 20 circuit, have a few needs for extra electric maybe generator, and small sunroom.
Hey! Can you explain the scenario more? The customer needed a new meter mast and it needed to be in a different location than the original one? Curious the reason.
This is awesome to see! Could you say what the price range is for this type of electrical job? Apprentice electrician aspiring to have my own business one day!
Hello Ron. Question for you from Canada. I noticed you had to extend your rigit conduit by 2 feet with another rigit. Couldn't you extended with 2 inch PVC conduit using the transaction attachment between rigit to pvc?
NEC 344.30 RMC shall be securely fastened within 900 mm (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other conduit termination.
@@wirenut9062 I spoke the PSEG inspector prior to starting this one and verbally got the approval. The meter portion has to be able to be locked and obviously the 5th jaw.
Those lag screws are NOT 1/2". Screws and bolts are sized by their shank diameter. So they may be #12 or 1/4" or 5/16" etc. The hex head is considerably larger than the shank and I'm guessing yours had a 1/2" (across flats) hex head wrench size.
Just had an inspector in Bergen county break balls about using a 2 inch LB for 200 amp SER. " I'll let it go but next time it has to be 2 1/2" really dude?
@@cdfornal because #6 AWG copper is all that’s ever required for connecting ground rods. 250.53 (E) Supplemental Electrode Bonding Connection Size. Where the supplemental electrode is a rod, pipe, or plate electrode, that portion of the bonding jumper that is the sole connection to the supplemental grounding electrode shall not be required to be larger than 6 AWG copper wire or 4 AWG aluminum wire. THAT’s how I “get away with it” by doing it right the first time.
@ sorry that came out wrong. I missed the “supplemental” part Your primary ground is sized according to 250.66 right? Usually I’d just run a continuous piece of #4 cu from the panel to two ground rods even if there is a cu water line. This is because most everyone is pulling out or splicing the copper - so we know the two rods should be fine for at least 20 years
Man, that was rough watching you work in this July heat here in Jersey 😢. Much respect especially when you show mistakes…that’s the instructor in you 👍👍🏆🏆
@@chuckq54 Do it right the first time. If not, then do it right the second time.
@@chuckq54 It was brutal. Today the suns not out at all and I’m loving it.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey yeah, cloudy here in South Jersey too 👍
@@electricianron_New_Jersey thank you so much. I like to see you correct your mistakes. I learn a lot for those lessons 👍
you earned my respect by taking the time to fix your mistake.
Im a young electrician that just started my own company last year. Ive still got a lot to learn, so thank you so much for sharing your work. Ive picked up a lot of little tricks from watching your videos.
I did a service upgrade the other day and it kicked my butt. You make it look so easy! I respect and appreciate you Ron. And beautiful install as always!
@@Ben_electric trust me, I’ve made plenty of mistakes so that’s normal if you ask me.
@@electricianron_New_JerseyI'm glad your honest must guys act like they never make a mistake
In Texas we use a Bare # 6 Solid CU as the Grounding Electrode Conductor for Residential Service from 100 Amp up to 200 Amp.We also sleeve it 1/2 '' EMT or 1/2 '' Schedule 40 PVC sometimes to make it look better, if the Home Owner asks for it. And since the Water Meters are underground by the curb we are not required to install a bonding jumper at the meter. And we only have to install one 5/8'' Copper Brass Ground Rod near the Main Service Outside Disconnect. And just to let you know Ron , I'm not a '' Arm Chair '' Electrician ! I'm a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician/Sub Contractor with 56 years in theTrade, Residential & Commercial.
Very true what you said.....Do work others don't want to and you'll do well......I did exactly that and my working life was always successful. I was an electrician when I was not long out of high school and should have stayed in that line of work. I'm 76 and spent 30 years working on generators of all kinds and sizes for a generator service company. I just retired last year when my company was sold and my job got basically eliminated......Former customers still seek me out and I do a few jobs. I worked on RV generators mostly for quite a while and very few places out there even will touch them......This one was a pretty big job and with the heat we had you earned your money for sure.....Nice job...
Very specialized generator repairs and maintenance.
This is a prime example of making it happen. It shows how every service upgrade can pose a lot of challenges hahah. Ron u need to get a little helper for all that crawling around and help you run that SER that must of been a good workout ahhaha.
@@joshman2338 what makes you think a helper would he helpful?
Hey Ron, Milwaukee's been sending me tools to review on my channel for years. I'll see if I can put you in touch with the people who handle that. They aren't spending quite as much money on that program as they used to. It's sort of a lottery/performance-based thing these days, as far as who gets chosen to review a new tool, but you never know. It's good to start these relationships. I think you have one of the best electrical channels on UA-cam right now.
That’s very kind of you tk say. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your install. It would be nice to speak on some of the NEC Code requirements as you go through the process.
Fantastic work and video, makes me happy that there still good people out there that go the extra mile and top notch quality workmanship. And ur right Ron good ol fashioned hard work goes along way. My wife and I just recently retired to Florida from Michigan where I was a electrical lineman for 31 years and basically took every opportunity of O/T and we both worked 40+ hrs a week and raised r children and maintained our home. Now we r truly living in paradise and enjoying every single day. So hard work definitely pays off. 👍
I like that grounding bridge!👍
Hi Ron!
Great job on the service brother! It’s unbelievable how much prices went up on materials . It’s insane!! By the way, I prove the fans you had on your work table. How are they? What doesn’t Milwaukee make these days!! I could have used them Friday in a basement panel change out. Too humid on Long Island here. Have a great weekebd
Thank you, John!
Thanks for always taking your time when doing your job, i have 3 years experience in new york and is amazing how i learn a lot from you 👏🏻👏🏻
Nice video Ron! I'm excited to be apart of each others online communities. I just found out that both of our companies are apart of the IEC. I'm actually a 2nd year student and I do that alongside my job and youtube channel. I just put up a meter/main this Thursday so it is really cool to see how you went about it. Would love to talk to you more about electrical work in the future!
The black #6 ground was a real nice hack job! Way to go!👍👍
how do you figure?
Great job as always Ron I really like watching you work in a professional matter. I really hated to see you work in that heat, but it's not any better here in Florida 100's degree temperatures. Your the best!!! keep the videos coming 😀
Glad you like them!
Nice job as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
So nice of you
Nice install during a really hot, humid week. I'm not sure if you're on 2023 yet, but the marking / labeling requirement for the emergency disconnect was clarified to dictate the color (red background with white text), and a minimum text height of 1/2". Could be a nice thing for you to start incorporating now so it's already part of your routine when it becomes enforced in your area.
Many folks don't realize a small work table to work from is one of the best tools to have. I carry a wood TV table -- looking for a next size up. Two fans...not fair ! I have one MW.
I literally have 14 fans in my garage and little USB-C fans here at my desk.
Great video as always, I like the idea of the portable tent.
I was thinking about having my 100 amp service upgraded to 200amp here in New York and maybe add solar to help offset the cost but for now I will just watch your videos!
working on those old houses is an art form. Thanks for all of the informative, detailed videos. If you think of it, can you tell us how long a customer is out of power, on average, when you do a panel upgrade? Thanks either way!
@@kungfurry Anywhere from 6-12 hours. I go to great lengths to keep the time without electricity to a minimum. Always.
Great looking service! Ive done a few mast services, and ive actually never cut the 2" rigid in a way that ive had to use a compression coupling (or cut new threads god forbid). Technically if you read in PSEGs redbook (or whatever color book it is now), they want you to use straps that go all the way though a framing member or masonry with a nut and washer securing it on the inside of the building. Ive never used them, and never seen them used, but still something thats in the book.
I did not see that in the book.
Hi Ron, I look forward to the 2nd part of this video. That was a crazy run back to the ATS, I'm guessing. I have a couple questions: Are you required to bond the natural gas to service and are you using 4/0 for your neutral in your service riser?
Thank you for taking the time to put out these videos. I know it's a lot of work.
If you have natural gas appliances (like a furnace, or gas stove), the natural gas is bonded by the equipment grounding conductor of the circuit supplying power to the equipment. The natural gas pipe entering the home IS NOT PERMITTED to be used as a grounding electrode the way the copper water main is required by the code to be used as a grounding electrode. NEC 250.102
Nice work, Ron!
Nice... I've been aching to see how the masts are done.
Good way i make that whole through roof is attaching a pilot bit to the whole saw . Work like a charm
Awesome video, Ron, as always. I'm sure it's a Challenge at times working by yourself.
Good work Ron. It fought you the whole way. Much respect.
I appreciate that Makitafan
Great work Ron. Honest question here. Why is it #6 copper for the rods and #2 alum for water pipe? Also, can you just use the 2 new ground rods and not the water pipe? Or perhaps the water pipe and just one rod?
Great Job. We use #12x1-1/2 screws... and 2"x24" nipple and rigid coupling to make drop longer. But we in MD. + we have 2 guys. Nice job
Just flagged the vid to watch tonight during the night shift (1900-0700). Thanks!!!
Do you ever wind up with kinks in your SER runs? Any tricks for dealing with them in tight areas?
That comes with experience. By walking out the cable like I do before pulling it into the basement, it prevents the cable from getting kinked. It still could get snagged on something and get kinked but its less likely when you walk out the roll ahead of the pull.
Love your videos. I thought the grounding conductor had to be either bare or yellow or green.
Great video. Do you use a torque wrench when tightening any of the connectors?
Why would you not use lags on the meter panel combo to mount it like
You did with the mast
Hi Ron! Great video as always! Where can I buy that meter main from?
Thanks !!
Nice job Ron! Love watching your vids. Keep up the great work? Gives me ideas when I’m scoping my jobs!
Hey Ron, thank you for all your videos. I live in Bergen county. Just wired my own new build and passed rough-in inspection last week. Your videos have been a great help. I am an electrical PE but to install my own electrical was definitely a new experience. I am working on the service aspect now and was wondering if I could hole saw the PSEG 320A pan in a spot where there are no knockouts. It just would work better for my connection to two 200A Generac service rated ATS’s. Thanks in advance!
Yeah, unfortunately I do not think PSEG will allow you to cut-out your own knockouts in the meter enclosure. That's a utility rule. You could call the construction department and schedule an inspection with one of their supervisors but I do not think they're going to allow it. Good luck with that and I hope this helps!
Hey Ron, you were right, they wouldn’t let me drill. They said it would void the UL listing. Odd since the ATS enclosures have to be drilled; they only have one knockout.
One more question if you do not mind, I have a 350MCM copper feed on the line side of the meter pan. For the GEC, I plan to bury 5/8” rods 8’ min. apart and run #2 AWG in between. From there tap with #4 to each 200A ATS. I also have #4 jumpers to rebar and cold water. My question is, can I bond all three on the ground bus of one of the ATS’s or does it need to happen ahead? Thanks again for all your help.
The braces between the joists are so that when someone steps on or places a piece of furniture the joist shares the load to to the joists on either side to share the load. Nothing to do with earthquakes.
@@joewhite917 but the bracing prevents the joists from rolling.
100%. Load transfer
Could you have used your new riser to come out of meter can and then used threaded end of old cut riser for the 2 feet and the threaded couplimg that comes with them, thus saving having to buy the compression coupling? Also the bridgiing between floor joist is to keep the bottom of the floor joist from twisting.
nice work! do you need to call 811 prior to ground rods? here in CA its a requirement...
Not a requirement for ground rods. The gas meter was nearby but I knew the main line came from the street, and not ion the direction of where I installed the ground rods.
Can you recommend specific anchors to use with stucco ?
I’ve had issues with my plastic anchors pulling right out of the stucco.
Thanks
I used my regular plastic anchor with #10 pan head screws. There's six of them in there and it does not move.
I got a question, I thought there was a code about using metal EMT straps with PVC isn’t allowed? I don’t know if that’s just a Michigan thing, but I was just wondering? I’m a first year so I’m still learning lol.
Hey Ron what's up nice job. What size aluminum service entrance cable is that. If you were not going through the roof could you use PVC.
4/0 aluminum or you could use 2/0 copper for 200 amp dwelling service.
Great video. Good job and nice work. Thank you for sharing
Does pse&g still supply the meter pan or do you have to go to source that from the supply house? What model did you use?
Ron correct me if I am wrong but I thought pseg did not permit the use of combination meter / emergency disconnects yet in NJ?
When I had my meeting with the inspector to get approval for relocating the service drop I asked him point blank and he said as long as the meter portion can be lockable it was allowed. 5th jaw too, you know.
Ron, My ranch home built in 2011 has a 200 amp service, 20 circuit panel filled. I want to have a whole house surge protector installed. I may need a sub panel installed, can I get a 20 circuit, have a few needs for extra electric maybe generator, and small sunroom.
@@gardenjohn1 we can add a sub panel or even better install a new 40/ 80 circuit capacity mb panel.
You the man Ron😊 !!!
True 😂😂😂
hello my friend i lern alot from you i do all my eletric work in jamaica an my house .blessing
Just be careful out there. Current leaves the source and returns to the source.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ok thank you
Just curious the reasoning the homeowner wanted the service entrance changed to a new location?
Prolly cuz the original location was in front of the house and is not asthetically pleasing. Poor curb appeal. Side svc entrance is hidden from view
@@bigtroll8249 that's exactly the reason.
Hey! Can you explain the scenario more? The customer needed a new meter mast and it needed to be in a different location than the original one? Curious the reason.
@@feelgood3455 they wanted it off the front of the house.
This is awesome to see! Could you say what the price range is for this type of electrical job? Apprentice electrician aspiring to have my own business one day!
What's the Model number for this pse&g approved Eaton service meter/disconnect combo, thank you.
Good Job . One man band just like me . Stay safe
@@edgardobarraza300 awesome man thank you!
Hello Ron. Question for you from Canada. I noticed you had to extend your rigit conduit by 2 feet with another rigit. Couldn't you extended with 2 inch PVC conduit using the transaction attachment between rigit to pvc?
Transition.
No. There’d be no reason. To do that.
Whats the max. distance for straps on each side of the compression coupling? 12 inches?
NEC 344.30
RMC shall be securely fastened within 900 mm (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other conduit termination.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey hmmm... But a coupling doesnt seem like a termination.. its more like a splice. So maybe 18" on each side of coupling?
I love your videos
would you post all your materials for this project?
When did PSE&G start allowing 1 family meter mains ?
@@wirenut9062 I spoke the PSEG inspector prior to starting this one and verbally got the approval. The meter portion has to be able to be locked and obviously the 5th jaw.
Is that gas meter over 3’ of your service? I can’t tell by the video.
Why, are you worried about it? It's fine.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey the service should be no less than 3’ of the gas meter, I’ll find the code reference later today.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I don’t remember if is in the NEC or PSEG book.
@@electricianron_New_Jerseyfound it, is a PSEG requirement, It’s in the page 10-16 note 9 of the PSEG book.
Great job Ron.......
How do you get away with #6 GEC on a 200A service ?
Good video. Hoping for more.
Love your work 😎
Much appreciated!
Your the best Ron
✌️
Nice video love watching your videos learning alot
Cool video ❤Ron!!!
@@rodolfovesga979 thank you!
Wow you really did end up with just enough wire at the end. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than smart.
90 bucks for a stick of 2". Wow, that is insane! Great job, just the same.
@@steelfist65 oh yeah. Might’ve been $80 something
Hell he said that obe compression coupling was 80 something.@electricalron
Really enjoyed the video. Thanks!
Looks great ron, i know that crawl space blew. Still teaching at those classes??
Yup. Next weekend I'll be in Laurel, Md., for an IEC instructors conference at IEC Chesapeake. I'll be teaching year one again starting in the fall.
You do great work!
I think you should contact the Milwaukee rep!! He should notice the I side of your truck 😅😅
whats the model number of panel?
Very nice
Nice job!
Where can I find that meter base combo?
supply house
@@electricianron_New_Jersey what is the meter base called? Just a meter shut off combo? Thank you.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey hey man wondering if you could tell me what to tell this meter is called thank you
Nice Great Video
Folks were knocking the HacksAll, but lo and behold, it can be both small AND get some rough work done.
Those lag screws are NOT 1/2". Screws and bolts are sized by their shank diameter. So they may be #12 or 1/4" or 5/16" etc. The hex head is considerably larger than the shank and I'm guessing yours had a 1/2" (across flats) hex head wrench size.
@@clearviewtechnical 9/16
Should have stabilizing bar for the ladder so the gutter ( aluminum) doesn't get dented
Good point, but did you see how strong those gutters were? They were really nice.
Just did a 200 amp on a 80 year old factory. Looked at 80 year old switch gear. Rusted as hell talked owner into a brand new service
Just had an inspector in Bergen county break balls about using a 2 inch LB for 200 amp SER. " I'll let it go but next time it has to be 2 1/2" really dude?
@@wirenut9062 tell him to pound sand unless he has a code reference for the DCA.
'' RMC '' , Rigid (Galvanized) Metal (Steel) Conduit !!
I always do 3 feet at the weather-head
👍
You don't need a membership in a health club jest perches a fiberglass ladders.
Dude hire some help...save your back
how do you stop water coming down the mast and into the box?
@@ThermoCoupleNZ with a weather head!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey that will teach me for commenting before watching the whole video! great work Ron!
How do you get away with #6 GEC on a 200A service ?
@@cdfornal because #6 AWG copper is all that’s ever required for connecting ground rods.
250.53 (E) Supplemental Electrode Bonding Connection Size.
Where the supplemental electrode is a rod, pipe, or plate electrode, that portion of the bonding jumper that is the sole connection to the supplemental grounding electrode shall not be required to be larger than 6 AWG copper wire or 4 AWG aluminum wire.
THAT’s how I “get away with it” by doing it right the first time.
@ sorry that came out wrong. I missed the “supplemental” part
Your primary ground is sized according to 250.66 right? Usually I’d just run a continuous piece of #4 cu from the panel to two ground rods even if there is a cu water line. This is because most everyone is pulling out or splicing the copper - so we know the two rods should be fine for at least 20 years