Nice work Ron, solo service upgrade doing mast , wire meter base and full panel change out is a TON of work , makes for a long day , I don't think most people realize just how much work that is, especially for us 50 + guys . 😀 Respect
i'm a retired electrician from eastern long island..and your videos are awesome the only thing i would have done different was the use of those 2 hole 2" pvc straps you used to support the 2"pvc riser we always used 2 hole galvanized straps for that only because the pvc straps become brittle and crack over time..and i see that you dont use insulated gloves when connecting or dis connecting at the point of attachment,,, you do it bare handed...you sir are a bolder man than me..!!!
I hear you on the 2-hole galvanized straps but it's technically a violation and this comes from one of the Board of Examiners himself. I think it's ridiculous and I use heavy wall straps where I need to but dirt doesn't meet the code minimum. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I’m not a electrician. Somehow this video popped up in many feed. I watched it to the end. I learned quite a bit. You had great camera work, clear explanations, and above all, a nice demeanor. I subbed and will follow you from now on. Watched this from Las Vegas.
There you go, you've got a customer from UA-cam. People like your honesty, and that's hard to find these days. It's too bad you're not in my neck of the woods.
Always enjoy your excellent attention to detail and excellent workmanship. Firm believer in being proud of your work…all your work is neat, clean, and professional. Keep up the good work! We need some electricians like you down in Texas!
A few years ago, I was replacing a breaker at Sis' house over here in Clovis. Since her house was built in 1954, I had to go to an electrical warehouse to find a breaker that would fit in her service panel. The man at the electrical warehouse told me that I'm lucky he had that breaker, because not many of the modern breakers will fit that box. I believe it was an Anderson-Webb or a Zinsco panel. So I figure before too long she's looking at a service panel upgrade.
Nice work! Easy to watch! I’m in Rahway, town inspector requires Service disconnect outside and the main panel becomes a sub-panel where all neutrals & grounds must be separated.
I used to live in Rahway! The town electrical inspector is wrong about the disconnect being required. If you're upgrading an existing electrical service the work falls under the Rehab sub code, chapter 6 of the Uniform Construction Code.
Yes, this right here. If the structure catches fire, fire departments will not enter the building unless the power has been shut off without having to go into the basement or waiting for the the utility company to disconnect at the pole. It’s a safety thing and I fully understand why. Firemen don’t like to be zapped any more than I do. It’s a requirement where I live.
Love your videos as i said said before it’s very interesting learning about your regs as a electrician in the U.K. one thing I have noticed that I never seen you do any testing on the circuits is it required when doing any electrical work after you do any installations because in the U.K. it’s required to do testing the circuits and log them on a certification to give a customer a copy and the contractor has a copy . Nice upgrade job as well and thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us . Watching from the U.K.
Nice real-time on the outside meter/mast part. The meter work looks super labor intense what with wrestling with that 4/0 Al and remembering to lube the conductors. Thanks for the lesson of the duct seal for the incoming ells, I am going to check those on my own house.
This type is mounted directly to the bus bars in any position which is far better than a device mounted on the side of the can with wire leads that add inductance and resistance. In some cans with built-in suppression it is mounted at the bottom of the bus. Never coil those leads to look nice.
@@curtw8827 I was trying to remember where I saw it and it was a note on the install instructions to keep it as close to the main circuit breaker or main lugs as possible. Having it installed on the bus bars is great but having it to far down the panel could be costly for some since that’s where I have all of my high dollar circuits that need that extra protection. NOTE: The SPD requires two adjacent mounting spaces and must be installed as close to neutral assembly and main circuit breaker or main lugs as possible. Keep wire lengths as short as possible with no sharp bends.
@@johnjohn722👍🏼👍🏼100% correct. According to Square D installation instructions it says to install as close to the main with as little wire as possible. That’s what I did in my own QO load center.
Another quality job, nice work Ron !! The PSE&G overhead service cable seen better days. I haven't been to Jose Tejas in a long time but the one in Woodbridge was always a REALLY long wait.
Lucky you are not across the Delaware river and have to deal with lazy PECO/Exelon. I installed a 100 & a 200 amp service in 100' long building downtown that only had #6 guage falling off cloth insulation over rubber. They refused to increase wire size or replace it. Said 60 amp rated wire is good to supply 300 amps.Was fun splicing a 4/0 copper wire to a 5" long falling apart wire inside the Ultility end box.
Nice Ron, I’ve prefab outside services and conduits. Saves time a lot. I’ve done the whole service riser and had the load wires off the meter base hanging out the LB. It was just a matter of getting the old service out of your way and installing the new pre fab riser. You should do it more often man, will cut down time out in the field.
If this house was built in 1926 you might say this new 200 amp panel is a 4th generation upgrade, because a house from that era almost certainly had knob and tube when it was originally wired, unless the home was in a rual area where electricity was unavailable until after the 1930s when first gen NM cable was widely used.
I noticed you said 'shed' the load by turning off individual breakers instead of just throwing the main. It's these important safety protocol and details that would greatly influence my decision to hire a new crew member or not.
If it has a big D at the bottom of the breaker that is the QO type breaker. A quick way differentiate from the Square D Homeline type breaker without taking the cover off. I learned that today and will be going back to the homo depot.
The only thing I’d recommend is moving the surge protector right below the main breaker. It’s location is called out on the instructions. But other than that, nice work as usual.
Hey Ron, I have a question about this video. You had to land the old BX cables into the new panel and I believe those cables don't have separate ground conductors, just the grounded neutral, and thus you had to continue to use the BX sheath as the ground and bond it to the panel, right? I believe the NEC says you can't use flexible conduit itself as a ground if it's over 6 feet, so I'm assuming there must be an exception for old existing wiring that allows you to reuse it as is, is that correct? If so would you know what section? I would like to read more about that.
Glad to see you are using Square D QO panel and breakers much better than the Homeline.I like the QO breakers as you can tell when they trip as you can see the red window on the breaker. my panel is a Square D installed in the 60s 100 amp no probem with breakers. I saw in a video about tightening the screws on each breaker as they may loosen in time? Could I replace with all new breakers if I chose? I see you spoke about whole house surge potector how about a lightening arrestor also and ARC Fault breakers where recomended?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Right now everything is working fine just had a few questions I mentioned.I live on a very limited income and cannot afford to put in a new panel at this time with all the other associated equipment. Thanks for your comment.
Your vids are awesome Ron! One electrician says it's okay to reuse the meter can that is in place now, for a 200-amp upgrade from 100 amp. Another said I have to upgrade the can... It measures 8.5 X 14 inches. Which is right? The actual meter is a 200 amp already and was installed by DTE Energy last year.
Great work! You are a madman with the bare hands up there but I respect it. How can you do a job like this yourself in one day? I’m an electrician on the other side of the river in Philly and a 200 amp service is always a 11-12 hour job even with a helper. I really wish I could get it done as fast as others.
Hey I subscribed! I watched this for a second time I like to learn all I can before bringing in the experts, you explain well your narration is second to none. Getting ready to upgrade to 200 amps at my 1300 sq ft bungalow I have a 100amp QO panel now witch will be removed from the riser to panel. Okay with everything you did in this video is very similar to my installation, do you need to upgrade the service drop from the pole to accommodate for the higher amperage draw or will the existing drop be sufficient. If you have time I would like to know your thoughts, thanks electrician Ron. FJB, long live the republic, go wings!
Great work Ron. What would you say is the average price of a panel and service upgrade? Since I'm not allowed to touch the meter or conductors from the transformer I'm curious how it would differ. Thanks.
Hi I enjoy watching your videos thank you for taking the time to do this I know it's takes a lot of work. My daughter just purchased a house and we are looking to upgrade the service from 100 to 200 I know every job is different but in the ballpark on the average what would a job like what you are doing cost. Thank you for your time I would call you but I don't think you would travel to Chesterfield.
This one was with Square D QO equipment which is a premium set up. This job was close to $5,000.00 plus the cost of the permit. The portable generator interlock is also an add-on. I don't even know where Chesterfield is..
Thank you for your reply Ron. Chesterfield NJ is on the edge of Burlington and Western Monmouth county. she's very close to the Chesterfield inn. if you're interested I could send pictures. Ty@@electricianron_New_Jersey
I want to also go from 100 to 200, is it always 200amp on the power company side, I’m in a buried area built in the 80s and am afraid I’m going to have to pay the power company too for a bore also for a new line from the transformer.
Due a hurricane Helena here in SC, my panel is located inside my storage on my carport, which about 50 feet from the outside roof gable, and trees and energy company light pole, pulled the weather head away from the back board, i,I, had several people come look at it,,andvall I am getting is that's the power company responsibility, but that's not helping me get power back to house, ut been 16 days now
hey i have a question, i'm trying to figure out how do you cut the service entrance wire at the drip loop without getting shocked, or does the power company shut off the power coming from the pole to the house
Nice job.....I have a question ? In a basement like you're working in here in NJ.....unfinished....do Romex drops mounted on side walls for an outlet have to be protected ? I've seen some videos where the Romex was put into EMT or switched to BX . I have an older home and Romex is stapled to wood boards for drops for outlets....
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thanks I didn’t think it was required by code but I know your exactly right. If an inspector wants it, you do it! Code keeps getting stricter ! I was an electrician in the 1960’s. Worked for a local electrician for a couple years. I’m 75!
Hey Ron - what is your recommendation regarding Sqaure D Homeline vs. QO? Is it good enough to choose the Homeline panel with the Aluminum busbar, or should I look for the Copper based busbar QO panel?
So when you are connecting the house lines to the city, did you have the city turn off the incoming electricity? If not, why not? I appreciate your videos. I have learned a lot from watching them.
Hi Ron quick question im changing out a sub panel inside the house. but the wire from the main to the old sub looks to be a #10 cooper. it dont look right to me what size wire should i use cooper or aluminum. it s a 50ft. run. im going to put a 200 amp panel in.
All depends on the load at the sub panel. If you ask for 100A service-entrance riser cable (4-wire) that would be the best value for the work you are doing. Change out that sub panel to a main lug 20-circuit load center and you've really upgraded your electrical system.
If he was moving the panel more than 6 feet or extending a circuit more than 6 feet then yes he would be required to provide AFCI protection in locations specified in 210.12
Noticed on some of your projects I guess are budget driven roughly what maybe 100-200 bucks more to use Sqd QO on everything Trying to understand your reasoning?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I want to upgrade my existing box to a 200A Square D QO box along with an EV charger install. Im considering the QO for its copper buss but wasn’t too sure about the plug on neutral setup they have going on.
So now with so many people purchasing EV'S along with California, parts of NY and a few other states going to prohibit natural gas in all new homes within the next 19 years then down the road making all houses stop using natural gas an electrical upgrade is the best move.
Oops meant to say ten years & not 19. Nice going the extra effort painting the new plywood. I gave from exterior 3/4" plywood two coats of Rustolium green paint over 45 years ago and mounted to above grade concrete wall in the basement. Believe it or not paint still has a nice shinny appearance. I got the paint for free from my job.
Why do I keep seeing panel replace or going from 100amp to 200amp and no one is forced to redo all the breakers to arc fault/GFCI modern day breakers I thought those are mandated nation wide in 2023???
They’re not. In New Jersey when we upgrade an existing service the existing branch circuits do not require Arc Fault circuit breakers. Any new branch circuits would meet the requirement, but not the existing circuits.
@@electricianron_New_JerseyGood to know. I am a maintenance guy at a medium sized printer, my daughter just bought a house and she is not in yet, another month. I must run 3) 20 amp dedicated runs to 1885 1,900 sq ft house upstairs room where she will have her 3d printer farm. I (myself) need to also add a 3 ton central air condition as it has none. I (myself) was going to install a 200 service at some point. But, my industrial heating and air guys said what ever you can do, install a new furnace (hers is 28 years old) when you install the aircond, as it is not far away from death, and the install will be far easier and you will be once and done, which I agree. But I can't do it all $$$ wise. So I thought I would save the 200 amp box swap till later and droop drop my new runs in the Byant box so the new work can have enough wire for later 200 amp box and larger tubes top/bottom of a already new modern 200 amp meter box that is there. I have a 100 amp old Bryant box almost exactly like you took out in this video. I have room for this in the box, just barely. BUT I know they will want me to run Arc Faults since it will be a new run. Are there Arc faults that will fit in this box? Why do I doubt there are?? Do I have any options with my specific scenario here? installing a temporary small new sub panel was a thought as that would let me reuse those arc fault breakers and only take a $300-400 lose on the sub box, permit and copper link wire. But that leaves me in the same scenario as the furnace, spend a penny burn a buck, that can be better used to complete the 200 amp box. Thanks!!
I guess if you find an inspector that will let you slide on installing AFCI breakers, youll win every bid. They cost $65 each. I had $1200 in breakers in my last install and the inspector did say he wouldn't of said anything if I didn't install them.
If they are not required by Code, I do not put them in unless the owner requests it. You are implying the Ron is doing something shady. It sounds more like you are carrying your customers to the cleaners.
@@FreeAmerican-mm2my there wasn't a single one in that panel? Do you think there are any bedrooms, living rooms, or guest rooms in this house? If there are, they would be required.
Nice work Ron, solo service upgrade doing mast , wire meter base and full panel change out is a TON of work , makes for a long day , I don't think most people realize just how much work that is, especially for us 50 + guys . 😀 Respect
Man... you aren't kidding!
The interactions with your helper was golden. You rock Ron and was a pleasure watching the journey.
I usually don’t want an audience when I’m working on things but that homeowner would be the exception. Awesome vide if your work . Thanks for sharing.
i'm a retired electrician from eastern long island..and your videos are awesome the only thing i would have done different was the use of those 2 hole 2" pvc straps you used to support the 2"pvc riser we always used 2 hole galvanized straps for that only because the pvc straps become brittle and crack over time..and i see that you dont use insulated gloves when connecting or dis connecting at the point of attachment,,, you do it bare handed...you sir are a bolder man than me..!!!
I hear you on the 2-hole galvanized straps but it's technically a violation and this comes from one of the Board of Examiners himself. I think it's ridiculous and I use heavy wall straps where I need to but dirt doesn't meet the code minimum. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I’m not a electrician. Somehow this video popped up in many feed. I watched it to the end. I learned quite a bit. You had great camera work, clear explanations, and above all, a nice demeanor. I subbed and will follow you from now on. Watched this from Las Vegas.
Thanks for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video!
2 vids so quick! awesome work ron. inspiring me to be a great electrician like u
There you go, you've got a customer from UA-cam. People like your honesty, and that's hard to find these days. It's too bad you're not in my neck of the woods.
Beautiful workmanship! Particularly liked the conduit work.
Always enjoy your excellent attention to detail and excellent workmanship. Firm believer in being proud of your work…all your work is neat, clean, and professional. Keep up the good work! We need some electricians like you down in Texas!
A few years ago, I was replacing a breaker at Sis' house over here in Clovis. Since her house was built in 1954, I had to go to an electrical warehouse to find a breaker that would fit in her service panel.
The man at the electrical warehouse told me that I'm lucky he had that breaker, because not many of the modern breakers will fit that box. I believe it was an Anderson-Webb or a Zinsco panel. So I figure before too long she's looking at a service panel upgrade.
Nice work! Easy to watch! I’m in Rahway, town inspector requires Service disconnect outside and the main panel becomes a sub-panel where all neutrals & grounds must be separated.
I used to live in Rahway! The town electrical inspector is wrong about the disconnect being required. If you're upgrading an existing electrical service the work falls under the Rehab sub code, chapter 6 of the Uniform Construction Code.
Yes, this right here. If the structure catches fire, fire departments will not enter the building unless the power has been shut off without having to go into the basement or waiting for the the utility company to disconnect at the pole. It’s a safety thing and I fully understand why. Firemen don’t like to be zapped any more than I do. It’s a requirement where I live.
Jose Tejas is a great spot. Thanks for recommending Dominick. A really good job.
I’m glad that worked out Carlos.
Love your videos as i said said before it’s very interesting learning about your regs as a electrician in the U.K. one thing I have noticed that I never seen you do any testing on the circuits is it required when doing any electrical work after you do any installations because in the U.K. it’s required to do testing the circuits and log them on a certification to give a customer a copy and the contractor has a copy . Nice upgrade job as well and thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us . Watching from the U.K.
Nice to see surgebreaker installed as well
Ron it ain't nothing to it in the way you do it great job. You deserve a fabulous dinner after all that work.
good call on the duct seal in the LB. im an apprentice and it intrigued me to find the code and your right, 230.8. nice work
Damn Ron, back to back uploads!
I know dude lol. I've been so busy with work and life I've had no time to edit and upload.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I know the feeling, but it’s wonderful to be busy during these beautiful spring days. Stay safe
Labelled very neatly. Top notch job Ron!
Thank you!
cool customer and awesome service. love your videos Ron
Thank you.
Nice real-time on the outside meter/mast part. The meter work looks super labor intense what with wrestling with that 4/0 Al and remembering to lube the conductors. Thanks for the lesson of the duct seal for the incoming ells, I am going to check those on my own house.
I was under the impression that the whole house surge protector had to be installed closest to the main breaker in one of the top spots.
This type is mounted directly to the bus bars in any position which is far better than a device mounted on the side of the can with wire leads that add inductance and resistance. In some cans with built-in suppression it is mounted at the bottom of the bus. Never coil those leads to look nice.
@@curtw8827 I was trying to remember where I saw it and it was a note on the install instructions to keep it as close to the main circuit breaker or main lugs as possible. Having it installed on the bus bars is great but having it to far down the panel could be costly for some since that’s where I have all of my high dollar circuits that need that extra protection.
NOTE: The SPD requires two adjacent mounting spaces and must be installed as close to neutral assembly and main circuit breaker or main lugs as possible.
Keep wire lengths as short as possible with no sharp bends.
@@johnjohn722👍🏼👍🏼100% correct. According to Square D installation instructions it says to install as close to the main with as little wire as possible. That’s what I did in my own QO load center.
🏆🏆🏆 Excellent job! I assume the electric provider has to upgrade the aerial cable to the house? And possibly upgrade the meter?
Another quality job, nice work Ron !! The PSE&G overhead service cable seen better days. I haven't been to Jose Tejas in a long time but the one in Woodbridge was always a REALLY long wait.
Best place in NJ.
Lucky you are not across the Delaware river and have to deal with lazy PECO/Exelon. I installed a 100 & a 200 amp service in 100' long building downtown that only had #6 guage falling off cloth insulation over rubber. They refused to increase wire size or replace it. Said 60 amp rated wire is good to supply 300 amps.Was fun splicing a 4/0 copper wire to a 5" long falling apart wire inside the Ultility end box.
New to the channel. Really enjoy watching a pro.
Thank you.
Nice Ron, I’ve prefab outside services and conduits. Saves time a lot. I’ve done the whole service riser and had the load wires off the meter base hanging out the LB. It was just a matter of getting the old service out of your way and installing the new pre fab riser. You should do it more often man, will cut down time out in the field.
If this house was built in 1926 you might say this new 200 amp panel is a 4th generation upgrade, because a house from that era almost certainly had knob and tube when it was originally wired, unless the home was in a rual area where electricity was unavailable until after the 1930s when first gen NM cable was widely used.
Nice job, as usual. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Jose Tejas in Woodbridge! Love that place.
The best!
I love the homeowner. He is clearly a DIYer and took an interest in the job.
I noticed you said 'shed' the load by turning off individual breakers instead of just throwing the main. It's these important safety protocol and details that would greatly influence my decision to hire a new crew member or not.
If it has a big D at the bottom of the breaker that is the QO type breaker. A quick way differentiate from the Square D Homeline type breaker without taking the cover off. I learned that today and will be going back to the homo depot.
The shelf below the old panel is due to the upper two feet or so of the wall not holding back dirt and can be thinner.
Yeah, me too. I forget about those little book with the numbers all the time.... I never know what's up with that
Another great video!! Always nice and clean work!!
Great job as always Ron.
Really Good Work Ron! Top Notch!
Great work Ron
Thanks for uploading your video's, great content.
The only thing I’d recommend is moving the surge protector right below the main breaker. It’s location is called out on the instructions. But other than that, nice work as usual.
Hey Ron nice job . Does your AHJ not require an outside emergency disconnect?
2017 rehab sub code.
Hey Ron, I have a question about this video. You had to land the old BX cables into the new panel and I believe those cables don't have separate ground conductors, just the grounded neutral, and thus you had to continue to use the BX sheath as the ground and bond it to the panel, right? I believe the NEC says you can't use flexible conduit itself as a ground if it's over 6 feet, so I'm assuming there must be an exception for old existing wiring that allows you to reuse it as is, is that correct? If so would you know what section? I would like to read more about that.
The new romex conductors bring an individual EGC to each existing BX circuit by way of being all bonded together including the metal junction box.
Ron you do a lot of climbing have ever thought of getting a small bucket truck
Glad to see you are using Square D QO panel and breakers much better than the Homeline.I like the QO breakers as you can tell when they trip as you can see the red window on the breaker. my panel is a Square D installed in the 60s 100 amp no probem with breakers. I saw in a video about tightening the screws on each breaker as they may loosen in time? Could I replace with all new breakers if I chose? I see you spoke about whole house surge potector how about a lightening arrestor also and ARC Fault breakers where recomended?
@@markchwala You can all of these things but if you change breakers, add surge protection, why not upgrade ALL of the equipment?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Right now everything is working fine just had a few questions I mentioned.I live on a very limited income and cannot afford to put in a new panel at this time with all the other associated equipment. Thanks for your comment.
If you dont mind me asking what can a customer expect to pay roughly for a exact similar job?
Your vids are awesome Ron! One electrician says it's okay to reuse the meter can that is in place now, for a 200-amp upgrade from 100 amp. Another said I have to upgrade the can... It measures 8.5 X 14 inches. Which is right? The actual meter is a 200 amp already and was installed by DTE Energy last year.
Great work! You are a madman with the bare hands up there but I respect it. How can you do a job like this yourself in one day? I’m an electrician on the other side of the river in Philly and a 200 amp service is always a 11-12 hour job even with a helper. I really wish I could get it done as fast as others.
I usually do the grounding electrode system before doing the upgrade.
"Belligerent" is the word you're looking for. The lock nut was being belligerent.
Thanks!
n ice job RON great conduit work on the riser
Hey I subscribed! I watched this for a second time I like to learn all I can before bringing in the experts, you explain well your narration is second to none. Getting ready to upgrade to 200 amps at my 1300 sq ft bungalow I have a 100amp QO panel now witch will be removed from the riser to panel. Okay with everything you did in this video is very similar to my installation, do you need to upgrade the service drop from the pole to accommodate for the higher amperage draw or will the existing drop be sufficient. If you have time I would like to know your thoughts, thanks electrician Ron. FJB, long live the republic, go wings!
Hey KMI, the size of the service drop is up to the utility company.
Trying to guess what this cost up there ,guessing low 3k to 6k high ? panel looks clean that is so important to me .
Great work Ron. What would you say is the average price of a panel and service upgrade? Since I'm not allowed to touch the meter or conductors from the transformer I'm curious how it would differ. Thanks.
Excellent video! May I ask, what's the name of the tool used to strip insulation from the service entrance cables?
Hi I enjoy watching your videos thank you for taking the time to do this I know it's takes a lot of work. My daughter just purchased a house and we are looking to upgrade the service from 100 to 200 I know every job is different but in the ballpark on the average what would a job like what you are doing cost. Thank you for your time I would call you but I don't think you would travel to Chesterfield.
This one was with Square D QO equipment which is a premium set up. This job was close to $5,000.00 plus the cost of the permit. The portable generator interlock is also an add-on. I don't even know where Chesterfield is..
Thank you for your reply Ron. Chesterfield NJ is on the edge of Burlington and Western Monmouth county. she's very close to the Chesterfield inn. if you're interested I could send pictures. Ty@@electricianron_New_Jersey
Where is the grounding rod ? Testing for 25 OHMS resistance at the rod ?
I didn't test it. I just drove two ground rods and called it a day.
Great video and a nice guy! Thanks
You do very good work !!
Thank you!
41:06 was there a reason for 250 MCM conductors instead of 4/0? or maybe I didn't hear that correctly and you were just describing the stripping tool?
Probably the tool!
Clean work.
Why did you use blue wire in the panel? That is not something that you see in my area. I enjoyed the video.
Use whatever is on the truck. Probably using up scrap wire on short rolls. Any color but white or green is legal.
Awesome job as always?
After seeing you write FJB had to sign in and give a thumbs up, Lets go Brandon. Awesome work too!
FJB!!!
I want to also go from 100 to 200, is it always 200amp on the power company side, I’m in a buried area built in the 80s and am afraid I’m going to have to pay the power company too for a bore also for a new line from the transformer.
Great video! How much is approximate cost this work included everything?
awesome video man
I’m glad you liked it.
Due a hurricane Helena here in SC, my panel is located inside my storage on my carport, which about 50 feet from the outside roof gable, and trees and energy company light pole, pulled the weather head away from the back board, i,I, had several people come look at it,,andvall I am getting is that's the power company responsibility, but that's not helping me get power back to house, ut been 16 days now
hey i have a question, i'm trying to figure out how do you cut the service entrance wire at the drip loop without getting shocked, or does the power company shut off the power coming from the pole to the house
Nice job.....I have a question ? In a basement like you're working in here in NJ.....unfinished....do Romex drops mounted on side walls for an outlet have to be protected ? I've seen some videos where the Romex was put into EMT or switched to BX . I have an older home and Romex is stapled to wood boards for drops for outlets....
Protected from physical damage. It’s up to the inspector really.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thanks I didn’t think it was required by code but I know your exactly right. If an inspector wants it, you do it! Code keeps getting stricter ! I was an electrician in the 1960’s. Worked for a local electrician for a couple years. I’m 75!
What is your favorite brand of doorbell transformer?
Hey Ron - what is your recommendation regarding Sqaure D Homeline vs. QO? Is it good enough to choose the Homeline panel with the Aluminum busbar, or should I look for the Copper based busbar QO panel?
Do the service wires from the pole ever need to be changed out?
Nice job 👍
Do you choose the panel that’s available at that time? Noticed you said before you’re a CH guy, but this is square d
Hi Ron great vids. I’m just curious, do have to replace the exterior wiring when upgrading a panel to 200 AMPS?
Usually, yes. The underground services here in New Jersey are 200 amps normally.
So when you are connecting the house lines to the city, did you have the city turn off the incoming electricity? If not, why not? I appreciate your videos. I have learned a lot from watching them.
Because I don’t have to.
What are the requirements for electrical equipment close to windows?
nice job looks good
Pitch on pipe not necessary. Your supposed to duct seal your pipe. Because of the temperature difference from outside to inside
will you torque all screws at the end?
Ron, what's your typical service area?
Hi Ron quick question im changing out a sub panel inside the house. but the wire from the main to the old sub looks to be a #10 cooper. it dont look right to me what size wire should i use cooper or aluminum. it s a 50ft. run. im going to put a 200 amp panel in.
All depends on the load at the sub panel. If you ask for 100A service-entrance riser cable (4-wire) that would be the best value for the work you are doing. Change out that sub panel to a main lug 20-circuit load center and you've really upgraded your electrical system.
Can you use smaller pvc for the service entrance if you use copper? What would be the cost difference for make it all copper in an install like this?
bout 2-3 grand
Your “ledge” is a separation of the footing.
I use to cut that with my bunny ears cutters. Lol.
Why sq d qo. Isn’t it the most expensive panel?
Was curious on the total cost for the upgrade
No AFCI breakers?
If he was moving the panel more than 6 feet or extending a circuit more than 6 feet then yes he would be required to provide AFCI protection in locations specified in 210.12
Not required by Code.
What brand is that hammer you're using at 1:54?
That’s an electricians hammer. 7” Klein Hybrid Lineman pliers.
No emergency disconnect required on the outside for this installation?
Not in May 2023 in NJ.
Noticed on some of your projects I guess are budget driven roughly what maybe 100-200 bucks more to use Sqd QO on everything
Trying to understand your reasoning?
Hey Ron, what are your thoughts on plug on neutral setups? Are they worth it? Do they have any potential problems? Thanks!
Plug on neutrals are good. Less clutter with less wires flapping around in there. What do you need it for?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I want to upgrade my existing box to a 200A Square D QO box along with an EV charger install. Im considering the QO for its copper buss but wasn’t too sure about the plug on neutral setup they have going on.
@@user-rw9gi5dq1b QO’s one of the best circuit breakers on the market. Good choice. Little expensive but you get what you pay for! Good luck!
Hey Ron, what year you got your electrical license? My license number is 180 after yours (16737), I passed my test in January 2010
April 2009. Holiday Inn in Springfield.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey mine too, was in Springfield NJ, I wait like a month to receive the result in the mail.
@@Ampacityelectric 6 months waiting if fail, I think now still same.
great video! the fjb made it even better haha
What size is the service cable coming into the panel?
4/0 Aluminum
@@electricianron_New_Jersey is 4/0 aluminum preferred over 3/0 copper because its easier to handle or cost? or both?
So now with so many people purchasing EV'S along with California, parts of NY and a few other states going to prohibit natural gas in all new homes within the next 19 years then down the road making all houses stop using natural gas an electrical upgrade is the best move.
Oops meant to say ten years & not 19. Nice going the extra effort painting the new plywood. I gave from exterior 3/4" plywood two coats of Rustolium green paint over 45 years ago and mounted to above grade concrete wall in the basement. Believe it or not paint still has a nice shinny appearance. I got the paint for free from my job.
Is an external disconnect not required?
NJ Rehab sub code not required.
Why are the tandem QO breakers (not QOT) sooooooooooo expensive?
@@Ampacityelectric I say that because the Cutler hammer tandem aren't as expensive. 🤷🏻♂️
Because Bidenomics
@@electricianron_New_Jersey bidenomics didn't hit Cutler hammer?
Hi, how many hours took complete the job?
Total labor hours including permits, inspections, gathering materials, to and from the job... 15.
Why do I keep seeing panel replace or going from 100amp to 200amp and no one is forced to redo all the breakers to arc fault/GFCI modern day breakers I thought those are mandated nation wide in 2023???
They’re not. In New Jersey when we upgrade an existing service the existing branch circuits do not require Arc Fault circuit breakers. Any new branch circuits would meet the requirement, but not the existing circuits.
@@electricianron_New_JerseyGood to know. I am a maintenance guy at a medium sized printer, my daughter just bought a house and she is not in yet, another month. I must run 3) 20 amp dedicated runs to 1885 1,900 sq ft house upstairs room where she will have her 3d printer farm. I (myself) need to also add a 3 ton central air condition as it has none. I (myself) was going to install a 200 service at some point. But, my industrial heating and air guys said what ever you can do, install a new furnace (hers is 28 years old) when you install the aircond, as it is not far away from death, and the install will be far easier and you will be once and done, which I agree. But I can't do it all $$$ wise. So I thought I would save the 200 amp box swap till later and droop drop my new runs in the Byant box so the new work can have enough wire for later 200 amp box and larger tubes top/bottom of a already new modern 200 amp meter box that is there. I have a 100 amp old Bryant box almost exactly like you took out in this video. I have room for this in the box, just barely. BUT I know they will want me to run Arc Faults since it will be a new run. Are there Arc faults that will fit in this box? Why do I doubt there are?? Do I have any options with my specific scenario here? installing a temporary small new sub panel was a thought as that would let me reuse those arc fault breakers and only take a $300-400 lose on the sub box, permit and copper link wire. But that leaves me in the same scenario as the furnace, spend a penny burn a buck, that can be better used to complete the 200 amp box. Thanks!!
About how much does all that cost the homeowner?
$3900-$4800
I guess if you find an inspector that will let you slide on installing AFCI breakers, youll win every bid. They cost $65 each. I had $1200 in breakers in my last install and the inspector did say he wouldn't of said anything if I didn't install them.
If they are not required by Code, I do not put them in unless the owner requests it. You are implying the Ron is doing something shady. It sounds more like you are carrying your customers to the cleaners.
@@FreeAmerican-mm2my there wasn't a single one in that panel? Do you think there are any bedrooms, living rooms, or guest rooms in this house? If there are, they would be required.
@@andrewpiva3515 but not in NJ and never under the NJ Rehab sub code.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey unfamiliar with rehab code. Please share more