Poulan Pro Chainsaw - Not Running or Cutting Well
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- A subscriber sent me his Poulan Pro chainsaw. He lent it to his brother in law over 10 years ago and just got it back. It was in good running condition, but now it is not running or cutting very well. Lets see what the issue is and fix it.
Chainsaw Model: PP4218AVX
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Carburetor Rebuild, Chainsaw, Dull Chain, Fixed, How To, Idle Speed, Not Running Well, Not Starting, PP4218AVX, Poulan Pro, Poulan, RB-129, RB129, Rebuld, Rebuild Kit, Small Engine, Stalling, Troubleshooting, Tuning, Zama
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I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
That’s why I never loan out my chainsaws to anyone. I will go and cut what need to be cut for them.
I feel the same way I loan out my gas power weed eater it came back not running because he put regular gasoline not two cycle gas
A friend once said he'd loan his wife before he'd loan his chainsaw.
Amen!
Rod H 😂👍
@@rodh2168 Damn right!!
The old metering membrane was not installed correctly. You also installed the new one incorrectly. First should goes the gasket then the metering membrane. Your currently installed membrane is pushing on metering lever. It cannot close the fuel valve properly. It causes engine flooding. Your chainsaw is running too rich. Just change the sequence. Gasket first. Membrane second.
Lol, Watching the ending with you cutting the wood. Yeah. Underpowered junk. No revs. like the one I had for a week. They want you to spend more on the JonSered or HusqVarna branded Electrolux. Junk.
The only suggestion I would add is on setting the high speed screw, always set it in the cut, meaning it should sound rich when out of the cut with a 4 stroking sound or burbble, then as soon as it is under load, it smooths right out. These saws are notoriously hard to maintain a tune due to disintegrating fuel lines.
Agreed, been sitting that long yea, those lines work today, dissolve tomarrow along with the primer bubble
A mixture adjustment tool should come with every saw. Better yet,
if manufacturers simply understand differences in fuel and altitude
and breaking in of saws absolutely requires individual tuning and
just put standard screws of some type on carburetors, revealing
something called common sense. Improperly tuned saws won't
run efficiently and it isn't mysterious how to correct that issue
does not require a master mechanic or repair shop. On vintage
equipment the mixture screws are just conventional screws. It
really was not progress to make mixture screws a proprietary
design to cause people difficulty needing a special tool. You
are right about tweaking the mixture on the saw in use by
making small adjustments to find the sweet spot. The saw
operator can hear and see the result of small adjustments
to find what works best. The fuel line issue has always been
there. There is an immersion rated fluoropolymer fuel line
I have retrofitted on a similar Poulan, that came with a similar
version fuel line. LP=1200 Tygon is a clear fuel immersion
rated fuel line that has I think an ETFE teflon lining coaxially
laminated with a jacket polymer of unknown composition,
and the line is not as flexible and soft as usual fuel line.
So it does not stretch and squeeze easily to pull through
the same size opening in a hard plastic tank as the softer
and more flexible regular Tygon yellow fuel line. LP-1200
goes through the rubber grommet fuel tank bushings with
no problem because the bushing stretches. But the smaller
opening like for the purge bulb return line that goes through
a bare hole in the hard plastic tank, I had to burnish carefully
to a larger size to accept the larger LP-1200 line used there
also, where the OEM Poulan used a smaller purge return line.
I wanted just one size and type line used for both the fuel
pickup and the purge return line so I made this a custom
modification that just makes sense to me, to use one size
and one type of fuel line both places. I used numbered
drill bit shanks incrementally burnishing the opening larger
until I could forcibly pull the taper cut end of fuel line to
squeeze through the opening when pulled by a hemostat
or needle nose pliers from inside the fuel tank. To do this
upgrade on a couple of other saws I have a #2 taper pin
reamer and precision 3/16" set collar to use as a depth
stop for the reamer to leave a reamed opening slightly
under 3/16" so the LP-1200 line will be a firm leak free
squeeze fit. There is also available from Walbro a purge
bulb that is heavier duty and longer service life made
of a different type material that is black and I have not
yet tried that upgrade, but that is next as a retrofit that
should be better than new compared to the OEM purge
bulb. Those purge bulbs do crack with age and are a
routine replace usually done same time as fuel lines
and carburetor rebuild. That shiny material fuel pump
diaphragm is ethanol fuel rated. Some carb kits come
also with the rubberized fabric diaphragm that holds
up better in non-ethanol straight gasoline. The shiny
material is good for either fuel, so the extra one is a
spare for future use but better not used with ethanol
blended fuel. I never run that blended fuel in any
small engines because of guaranteed issues with
corrosion and water contamination. Ethanol blended
fuel is engineered for causing trouble. Corn is for
feeding chickens not fueling chainsaws.
@@artpatronforever They frown on the consumers having those adjuster tools,, Its an emissions thing, but agree the first couple of times using any of the small 2 cycle stuff , sometimes an adjustment is needed, altitude wether you are in Denver Co, or Portland Or, and fuel quality affect performance also,winter and summer has its effects to,
@@jeffclark2725 I have 3 of these Poulan Pro chainsaws. All
3 saws had mixtures factory set rich for the break in run.
All 3 saws had to be gradually leaned out during the first
10 hours. It really can't be an emissions issue when new
saws come set rich from the factory. Emissions go down
as the saws get broken in and the mixture leaned out. But
if an interference is done there it causes more emissions.
I have encountered the same scenario with a blower so
it can't be emissions or if it is what is done is counter
to reason. However, if government is involved then that
would make perfect sense.
I was gonna say the same thing
I have the same exact saw. The Poulan Pro brand gets made fun of because it's not one of those ridiculously expensive chain saws. For what it is, it works perfectly fine. It's intended for homeowners, not people that are lumberjacks. Mine has been perfect, owned it for about 20 years now and it works fine.
Has saved me a ton of money in the backyard , feels good to save a buck
I bought one of these about 25 years ago and it has NEVER ran for long. It stayed in the shop more than it should have. I just bought an electric saw from H F and it will do all I need. I am glad that You've had good luck from yours.
@@MrMultitool😂 I also have given up and purchased a HF electric saw. It has started every time 😂
As others have stated, the metering side gasket goes against the body with the diaphragm against the cover. @ 23:30 Been there, done that. Irregular start and run was the result.
I've done that before. The metering diaphragm and the pump diaphragm. I was getting aggravated with then realized that I had the diaphragms on backwards
Well, somebody saw it! Good job ... was wondering if this was some kind of different saw ...
I find this mistake alot and it’s a easy fix, but I tell them what they did wrong 😊
To avoid kickbacks, always have the chain at full speed before making contact with the log. It also keeps chips from clogging the drive sprocket.
Yes, true. B-)
Hi James, still watching this video however unless that carb is different then the Metering diaphragm doesn't go below the gasket it goes above, the pump diaphragm goes below the gasket they're different. On all the saws I've fixed it's that way or the metering doesn't work right.
If what i just looked up is correct that's a zama w26 carb, look up the parts diagram for that you'll see the gasket goes against the carb body then the diaphragm. Can't post a link as YT will delete it
Edit, Zama official UA-cam channel also has a rebuild video (different carb) but also states this, gasket first on metering side
You are correct. I also checked Zama parts diagram for this carb,
and watched the Zama video, and have the Zama service manual,
3 in agreement, the gasket goes first against the carburetor body,
then the metering diaphragm with the metal disc side also towards
the carburetor body and then the cover. That gasket is also a shim
thickness that positions the metering diaphragm at correct height
for its metering function to occur as designed.
@@artpatronforever Correct, otherwise the metal disc will press on the lever when it's not running and will flood the saw, will also run rich in operation. You can tune around this but it's not ideal. I bought a Husqvarna 365 couple of years ago, guy sold it cheap because it "would never run right", basically couldn't even start it cold because it was flooding. Luckily it's easy on that saw and only need one screwdriver so i dismantled the carb on the spot and sure enough someone had done this exact thing, so i fixed it, started right up. I think he was a little sad he was selling it now but too late
@@CSkwirl I have not looked closely to tell, but it may
be possible to replace a metering diaphragm without removing
the carburetor for access. Generally it is only a brittle from age
metering diaphragm that will make a saw be wandering at idle,
and other stuff on the carb is good. It could be a low complexity
quick fix for idle issues to just replace the metering diaphragm.
Its a tough gig making videos for the masses to scrutinize only to have the armchair mechanics tell you what you did wrong. I enjoyed YOUR video.
I am happy and glad to see I am not the only one who stops and cleans the grime from chain oil and wood chips when servicing a chain saw. I feel like it was an OCD but always felt it's necessary. Thank you for this awesome instructional video. You are easy to understand and always clear to the point. Keep up the great work!
You might want to check an IPL but I think you reversed the diaphragm and gasket on the metering side of the carb. The gasket goes on first and then the diaphragm, just the opposite of the pump side.
I was always a guy who wanted to repair my things. I found a carburetor kit for a chainsaw for $12. A replacement carburetor with a length of fuel line, two primer bulbs, an air filter and a spark plug was $15. If I added a can of carburetor cleaner to the carb kit, it exceeded the price of the carburetor, not even including labor. I bought the carburetor and it solved the problem. I was hesitant about the odd brand spark plug but I never had a problem with it. Ever since then, I check to see what a carburetor costs first and I've replaced them on several two stroke engines and 2 four stroke engines with great success.
Same here.
It seemed like the high speed needed to be a bit higher.
100%
One other thing to check is the muffler. There is a spark arrestor screen that can clog up after extended use.
Burning the carbon build up off with a propane torch can make a big difference
I was thinking the same thing, first thing I check, after fresh fuel and purge the carb
Yeah. First thing I thought of. They can get crudded up surprisingly quickly especially when it's running rich to begin with.
I think first, I would check that the air cleaner is not clogged, then check the spark arrestor screen. While that is out, use a flashlight to check the piston for any scoring. If it is scored, engine is dead.
Also, keep in mind, that these carbs are very sensitive to vacuum leaks. Old fuel lines with cracks or pin holes must be replaced !
Subscribe please !
Ok thanks for the advice I’ll try
Metering diaphragm is supposed to be on top gasket.
Yes that is a reassembly error requiring a do over. Nothing like happy news.
Jim: Great job as usual. A few suggestions, Pull the spark arrestor out and burn it off if it has lots of carbon. Sometimes the carb can't be adjusted if the arrestor is plugged. Also run the saw wide open and adjust the high speed jet to it fastest RPM and then turn it richer until the RPM's slow some. This will save it from running lean and burning the piston. Try to file down the chain guide depth gage in front of each tooth, this will allow an old chain to cut properly. Should be done every time the chain is sharpened. Thanks for an excellent video.
Thanks for the tips.
Yes I agree, he never did the fast running jet. To set the slow running, you can tune the jet for the fastest idle chain speed, then add a bit of richness.. Then slow the throttle stop, so that the chain just stops moving. That old chain was a safety chain, so maybe the safety ramps would also need to be ground down as well as the rakers.
Anytime the adjustments to a carb act screwy, it needs to be cleaned and rebuilt. If it still acts screwy it needs to be replaced.
Awesome. My Craftsman 14" has been sitting for years. Last time it ran, it lacked power. It's time to dig into it again. Thanks for the motivation.
James, I’m hoping you didn’t ship that saw back before reading the comments! I was hoping to see a Sticky informing us you took the carb off again, reversed the order of the metering diaphragm and its gasket and retuned. I agree with others about cleaning the spark arrestor and replacing the fuel lines. If the fuel lines are dark in color I’d automatically replace those and the purge bulb because it wouldn’t be long before they’re ready to go. I also would have removed the recoil and cleaned under there because that’s another place that can get full of debris, affecting cooling airflow. Also agree with filing down the depth gauges. That’s what affected your ability to cut, more than anything else. Running a chain like that will do more to overheat and destroy an engine than almost anything else. One other tip - when tensioning the chain it’s easier to just tip the saw forward and touch the end of the bar to the table to elevate the bar rather than lifting it up with your fingers. 👍
Great points explained for us novices to the chainsaw world
That saw is GUTLESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have 2 Poulans (POlan, not poo-lin), and they run great. They come from the factory set a little lean, so I richen them up just a tad. Once set, they start and run just great. What usually happens is people leave gas in the carb for years, and it leaves a messy goo in the bowl and prevents sufficient fuel from passing. Methanol fuel makes it worse. Fuel injector cleaner can sometimes make it run great without further work, depending on the crud deposits which are sometimes insoluble. When the bar wears out, get a new Oregon and a better chain too.
Good job and good video. Some of the people commenting just have to cry about the smallest things. I have a friend that's real bad about it. You can solve the biggest problem but you tied your shoes wrong.
i am surprised someone would pay to have one of these service. i guess it makes good content for youtube but i can go to princess auto and buy a refurbished saw just like it for $150. these things are rarely worth doing much with because they are almost cheaper to replace than to buy parts. my neighbor had one that needed $100 in parts. i ended up lucking out and finding a parts saw free. the funny part was the parts saw actually ran and had 150psi compression never thought to check a saw i got for free till after i pulled the needed parts off it.
Correct chain tension - snug it up to the bottom of the bar, lift up the end of the bar and re-snug it to the bottom of the bar and tighten the bar nuts while you continue to hold it up on your saw, tighten the tool less adjuster. I want about a 1/4” gap between the top of the bar when I lift the chain up at its midpoint of the bar and it snaps back to the bar when I let go of it. I tighten all chains on all saws the same.
James, you need to do a follow up epilogue on the metering diaphragm issue
because of the misplaced gasket / shim assembly error. That saw isn't right
until that gasket placement error gets attention.
Exactly right. I noticed the error as well.
On a non running saw I always dump all the fuel out of it and rinse out the tank with fresh fuel before refilling it. Putting fresh fuel with bad fuel does nothing but make both fuels, bad fuels.
How do you deal with replacement of the clunk filters in both the gas tank and the oil tank?
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq replace ‘em
NGK plugs are good plugs, NGK makes OEM plugs for Poulan - Husqvarna
This is why I love the notification bell. :)
Me too 🖖
Well done James. Although they’re a cheapie, they serve a purpose and you got it running well. The owner will be happy I’m sure.
I have fixed 9 last week and there very popular here because of TSC, just ordered 20 more carb kits
Cleaning these with compressed air works good, and that fuel line is brittle. The trick with the choke is you pull with choke on till it berps a little start, then choke off and should start right up.
hi you should have the gasket first then the diafram i work for Stihl and they are the same system!!
James the metering diaphragm on backwards the gasket goes first then the diaphragm and then the cover.
I watch all your video's,you do a great job.
the chain did need replaced but if you look at it, the rakes were above the tooth level. Filing the rakes are an important step to sharpening a chain
Poulan has ALWAYS made crappy saws!
For the last 40 years + their quality has remain at the bottom of the list.
Nice transition from keep poulin, it might start before your arm falls off, to a nice running saw. Best of Luck..............
Wow 10 year loan Holly Molly I borrow something for a month and I'm getting screamed at were is my tools lol very generous to let them use it for 10 years @James Condon
James,
I need to order parts for my 3500 briggs and stratton generator. Can you send me a link, phone number, etc?
I put an orange mark on my splined adjusting tool, so I can count the turns. I mark my Stihl adjusting screwdrivers with a mark of black paint, so I can count the turns on it when adjusting carbs with slotted adjustment jets. My rule of thumb is 1.5T out on smaller carbs and 1.0T on bigger HD carbs used on my big saws and tune from there.
even when done, it's still not hitting top RPM. more than likely the muffler is clogging up with carbon or the top end is chewed up.
Anyone notice at 40:30 that the bar is loose?
Great video. I see it still runs a tad rough and takes a bit more time cutting through logs or wood. Sometimes other symptomatic issues that seem like the carburetor aren't the issue. A blocked or caked spark arrestor or carbon fouled muffler can cause too much backpressure sending exhaust through the blow down of the transfer ports robbing the saw of its full potential power. During a tuneup sometimes these mufflers can be taken partially apart and cleaned to prevent too much back pressure. I would suggest during a carb rebuild, sparkplug and air filter change, clean the exhaust system as well clean or replace the spark arrestor if possible. This will prevent future idle stalls especially ramping down from high speed back to idle. Exhaust tuning is also very important, because one doesn't want backfire as well.
Rance here. That was another good video and it really shows the way it goes when fixing up a chain saw. Nothing is easy you always spend more time than you thought it would take. Thanks for sharing your time and expertise with us!
These videos remind me of Chris Fixx videos when you really can't see. Who you are.
That old chain cut as well as my new one did when I accidentally installed it backwards.
Too funny. "Hey can I borrow your saw?" Brings it back 10 years later, broken, and says "Here's your saw back."... LOL
Typical when something borrowed is finally returned!
😂Hey Rob Can I borrow your chainsaw?
It came back... Mine dont. I never lend out anything now.
Great video! I don't know if you've covered before, but I remember my surprise at discovering that little hole at the front of the bar is for greasing the front idler. There's even a special grease gun for doing so. Maybe something for a future chain saw maintenance video..
I worked on a Poulan Pro like that recently. Tellingly, it had shipped with a Husqvarna labeled spark plug. Husky bought Poulan over a decade ago so perhaps more & more, the Pro's are becoming "yellow" Huskies. I tested the saw after I worked on it and was impressed by its performance. Longevity? Don't know. But a Husky 20" Rancher is about $500 vs $250 for the Pro.
When I saw you running the saw without top cover my first thought was "don't do It". A couple years ago I was working on my old Poulan after a carb rebuild. It was a warm day and I keep trying to make it run better. Finally it started to lock up. Of course I ran it too long and over heated the engine. I didn't realize that even on no load condition the engine would overheat without the cooling shroud. Wish I had seen your video first!
James, I noticed the Torch brand spark plug caught your attention. I just ran across one of. Those on a Bighorn ATV.
Question! Are you sure that the diaphragm and the gasket goes like this, not the other way around? First gask and diaph? Metering side.Thx.
Agree
Would not be the first time I put that gasket on wrong.
great video as always...just a note, ive gone thru dozens of chain saws in my time and to me it didnt sound like you were going a high enough top end speed there
I tend to run them a little rich. I think this one was running close to 11,000 rpm.
Yep, I agree with James, these cheap saws just don’t run like the better quality ones. Running them on the rich side and thus slower makes them last a bit longer (being relative as these things are just cheapie throwaway saws).
Hi James, watched two of your chainsaw videos. If you are cutting WOT sounds like your hs jet adjustment could be better. Some experts say out of the wood setting about a quarter rich from point of max speed gives the "four strokin". You cut a log WOT without changing get it runs just right, smooth lots of torque , no overspeed. If you are in wood and getting four stroking noise go slightly leaner.
Thoughts?
@jcondon1
That old chain was really due to be replaced! It had be resharpened numerous times to look like that.
Looks like the takers are too tall and preventing the freshly sharpened blade from cutting.
Rakers not takers. LOL. PREDICTIVE text or operator error more likely.
Chain is on backwards it looks like Santa’s sleigh small part first
Mine is doing the same thing… I’ve spent hours and hours trying to get it to its former glory. Everyone talks down about poulon but I’ve really enjoyed mine, just wish I was more competent on how to maintain and tune it
Poulan is now owned by Husky, better quality
There good saws and really air filter and proper type of fuel with no corn crap with red armor oil is the way to go
I loan out the Poulan junk. I don't loan out my Echo and Stihl saws.
Running as good as possible and cutting the same way. Up to max possible levels, the standard we expected from you James. Good content, I learned a few things.
I’m sure many have ask, and I did look in a few descriptions as well as your about pages, but what do you do with all these generators (etc) you work on?
James sells them......
Outstanding video James! Great teaching on the carburetor rebuild. Another thing to check on the chain are the depth gauge or rakers. They need to be filed down along with the teeth so the teeth can chip away at the wood and not ride along the top of the wood if the rakers aren’t filed as well when sharpening a saw chain.
Funny how so many chainsaw repair tales start with " I len't it to ..." .
I stopped lending tools a very long time ago , because " lend " , generally means either
" give it to me "
or
" let me do the Samsonite luggage test on it " .
what did you do about the chain oiler? makes a big difference on cutting ability
I noticed that most people who use chainsaws these days don't have a full or proper understanding of how to sharpen chainsaws correctly. I saw you work on other chainsaws previously and watched how you sharpened the chains. You like using those electric chain sharpeners. They do work, yes. But I saw that you have always and consistently missed one of the most important steps in properly sharpening a chainsaw. You completely negated and ignored the raker teeth in front of the chainsaw tooth. You can have the sharpest chainsaw teeth in the world. But if the teeth cannot adequately connect and contact the wood it's supposed to cut, it won't work. In addition to filing the teeth back, you also need to take a 6", or an 8" bastard flat file and file the raker teeth down. The tips of the rakers needs to be just below the cutting edge of the chain's teeth, or it won't cut.
I've seen people who knows how to cut wood with a chainsaw, end up getting frustrated because their chains don't cut well even after filing and sharpening. Not addressing the raker teeth is always the primary reason and cause of chain failure.
The purpose of the raker is multi-fold. First, it ads the correct posture to the teeth as it contacts the wood. Second, it provides guidance for the chain and blade as it bites into wood during cutting. And third, they are called "rakers" for a specific reason. As a chainsaw cuts wood, the raker teeth "Rakes the sawdust and chips" out of the way so that the teeth and the blade do not become clogged and jammed in the logs during cutting.
Filing and sharpening the teeth and filing down the rakers maintains the proper orientation and balanced system of a chainsaw chain for cutting. A properly sharpened and balanced chainsaw tooth set and rakers are key elements in cutting efficiency and safety.
I'd like to think I have a good understanding of what I'm saying because after all, I grew up learning and knowing how to use chainsaws and have had years, decades of experience with how they work. But to clarify what I said, here is a link that describes how the cutting tooth and raker system works on a chainsaw's chain. Hope you don't mind, and hope this helps.
When it comes to small engine repair you really know your stuff. But you need to understand just a little bit more about chainsaws and the cutting chains they use. And incidentally, the raker is also called the "Depth Gauge," because it determines the cutting depth of the teeth. It must be properly maintained and filed to the correct height to match the teeth after sharpening.
Here's the link about Chainsaw Cutting Chains: www.treetec.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Operate-and-Maintain-Chainsaws-Treetec-pre-course-reading_0720.pdf
If I had to cut firewood with a pouland saw I would quit burning firewood
Husqvarna, Jonsered, or Stihl, in no particular order. No one who uses a chainsaw uses virtually only one or two other brands ...(Echo) . I have had a few of these "big box store" cheapies, & I can't believe how bad they are.
Have you tried a Chinese Stihl clone? (The Chihl)
Especially in the larger sizes they work well.....
With that old chain, we use our chains until a chisel breaks off (less than 1/8”), lol. That old chain should have many more sharpenings left. Just from looking at it, the rakers looked as through they’d never been filed, hence very poor cutting performance.
Keep the videos coming, they’re full of useful info.
Thanks for posting
Cheers.
Yepper, I caught that
I AllWAYS replace the rubber air boot on every one I fix
I recently graduated from the pulling pro university when latter I realized the fuel lines had rotted away 😂👍🏼.
“It may not actually BE one.” 🤣
Hi James lovely saw I've recently repaired one on my own channel was a freebie nice job buddy
Bonjours , au ralenti , la chaine ne dois pas tournée d'un pouce , la se n'est pas le ca , peut mieux faire , bonne continuation .
You don't seem to know how to use a chainsaw properly. It has or should have 2 or 3 sharp pins that you push into the log and lever against . It will take twice as long otherwise. Also I have seen absolutely NO damage done by alcohol fuels in these carbys and you can buy a new replacement carby for $25
Some saws do not have the spikes.
But if you need to lever the saw to pivot around the spikes to "make it cut" ....
you have a dull chain.....
Gnaw, gnaw, gnaw - sharpen that butter chain. The rakers have probably never been adjusted.
What do you think about the pre mixed 🤔 fuel from the store.
Watch this ua-cam.com/video/UDuKE26G2mo/v-deo.html
Save your money. Use Sunoco non ethanol or other non ethanol
gasoline with any modern 2 cycle oil rated for 50 to 1 or better.
The only thing I loan out is advice, not chainsaws.
You are the small engine Guru when it comes to repairs 😊
I lent my chain saw out. And it came back in no run condition ! He put oil in gas tank why don’t manufacturers label the gas caps and oil caps instead of red for gas and black for oil in most cases ! For people that don’t use chain saws or other equipment in most cases !
Would you lend out your wife???
You needed to ensure your friend wasn't going to kill himself or the saw...
good time to be a friend and you do the chainsawing with him as helper?
Did he even offer to pay for the bits to fix it?
I am glad you got the chainsaw is back up and running. The one problem with lending your tools out is people sometmes don't care for it like you do or they lend it out to someone else. Great video enjoy your channel and content. ❤🇨🇦
Correction to my first post. "ANYONE who uses a chainsaw", not "no one"...sorry.
Don't let no stump poke no hole in the bottom of this here boat or
the grammar trolls will get you.
always clean out the shit you're about to take appart.
James, another video that is cut above the rest (Could not resist) Carry on Professor :) Enjoyed as always
Oh idle is high to chain not supposed to spin easy fix
really great video! Your thorough attack of a piece of equipment is far above the average individual and don't ever stop because im going to get my grandson involved. 😉😉!
Along with the muffler check the high speed rpm. It doesn't sound like it's running fast enough in those last cuts.
It's cutting like a knife through butter now with the new Oregon chain @James Condon
Excellent work as always James, the carburetor diaphragms in 2 cycle carburetors seems to be the most common problem on non-running engines, ethanol fuel just wreaks havoc on the diaphragms which is why I run ethanol free canned fuel in my 2 cycle equipment.
Ethanol is bad for car engines too! & it really doesn't help reduce carb emissions ... because as it ruins the engine ... causing it to run improperly ... also causes it to spew more emissions ! 🤔
I have a gasoline-powered radio control model helicopter and because of the ethanol problem and not having canned fuel where I live, I reverted to using exclusively aviation gasoline (Avgas) in the model. It's the low-lead variety, no problems after some 16 years flying.
I have 3 saws just like that. They all run great except for one has bad crank bearings. I also clean out the groove in the bar every day or 2 to keep the oil holes from getting clogged and someone correct me if i'm wrong I think it has a hole on each side on the tip of the bar to grease the sprocket bearing
The Poulan Pro/ Weed Eater/ Husqvarna/Electrolux that I owned was a dog. It was similar to this saw. I had to return it and get a Echo which had some serious Rippems as Ave would say. The Poulan just didn't turn out the revs. Consumer grade Echo seems to wind out well.
Well at least you are doing what most small engine repair shops have no interest in doing they will say get rid of that saw
That’s probably why I ended up with it.
@@jcondon1 that is so true at least you have it fixed for the customer 👍
Great video James! My experience with the carbs on Poulan saws is they sometimes can be rebuilt and be tunable, however, sometimes the carb just needs to be replaced. I’m also wondering if the ultrasonic cleaner is the difference. I don’t have one so I’ve only cleaned carbs with carb cleaner and compressed air.
Consider a parts cleaner dip. Like Berryman Chem-Dip or Gunk Pail with basket. They are a liquid cleaner in one gallon paint cans with a basket, and about $40. Not at the level of a carb ultrasonic, but I have the Berryman Dip. It does a great job cleaning the carbs I put in it.
I use ultra sonic cleaner and have had no problems with kits at all
Best 300 I ever spent
I love mine and use it for a lot of things besides carb cleaning
I ultra sonic clean carbs and some times twice
Have very good luck with just dawn and water
How 🤔 ❓️ does that RPM device work, what is it measuring?
Spark pulses
Still a little rich on the high speed screw bud greT vids though👍👍👍
Yes, prefer to run it a little on the rich side. I did lean it out a bit before sending it back to the owner.
Carb kits for the Poulan are pretty common and cheap. I keep several of their kits in my parts box K10-WAT or K20-WAT. They atre used on lots of two cycle engines. I keep them and K10-HD and K20-HD Walbro carb kits in my parts box. I don’t use the Chinese kits. I try to use Walbro and ZAMA parts. I keep several ZAMA C1Q kits in my parts box. I also have the big W and Z gages to check the lifter height. I set them slightly below the setting on these gages, one RCH below if you know this measurement detail.
I fell asleep watching last night so I gave it another shot. Excellent work and explanations, James. I've been watching Poulan Pro chainsaw videos and 2-stroke carb and engine videos for a while now. I appreciate the teardown, carb rebuild, reassembly, fuel/air adjustments and finale with all the details in between. I found a great descriptive tutorial about 2-stroke small engines which gave a full explanation of how they work, including carburetion, air and fuel flow, compression, firing and exhaust, how the Low and High mixtures work together, how and why, fuel/air adjustments and the whole shebang. Your video tied it all together in a rebuild and adjustment procedure. I bought an inductive Tach/Hour Meter and have the Idle and Full Throttle speeds now, so I can set my new Poulan Pro PR5020 to perfection now, and be able to adjust it for the various working conditions, like elevation (the first thing to do), then changing conditions like hot and cold weather, humidity, and all of that. Thank you!
Good show .I watched the carb assembly and I finally got it . Clean the groove in bar with a blade and file off rollover on bar invert bar sharpen well including rackers .Good as new no .But if the chlps are the size of the cutters the best you can get.
Did you ever try just closing the idle or high speed screws all the way down to maybe clear any dirt out then readjust. This has worked for me in the past and saves carb removal and tear down.
Nice work, if enough people have not already said so, you've got to get that engine up higher in the rpm range. Good Job.
A lot better than when you got it. I bought a new Poulan chain saw in the early 80's when they were green in color. The absolute worst chain saw I have ever used. Might as well have used it like an axe it possibly would have cut better lol.
Interesting. I have the Craftsman model # 358.350991 and is nearly identical to the Poulan saw and it's exhibiting similar behavior . You've given a new avenue to explore. Thanks!
I have worked on both and videoed it, they are identical.
Stay safe, Joe Z
Craftsman saws are rebranded Poulans.
Awesome video and just to let you know the saw is performing perfectly, thanks Jim, keep up with the great videos!
👍👍👍😁