@@frankclements1431 I'm supposed to be getting an s10 with a timing chain problem soon. It'll be my first truck. High chance I wont be able to move for a week
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults). Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals. I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults. I plan to replace the piston rings. Would you suggest the timing chain as well? I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together. Thanx, Mark ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
TAKE THE STUDS OUT FIRST! The studs that go through the pan unscrew from the bottom and the cover will come off without any problem. You just showed everyone how to do this the wrong way.
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults). Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals. I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults. I plan to replace the piston rings. Would you suggest the timing chain as well? I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together. Thanx, Mark ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
put a screw driver handle or a bar under the edge of that timing chain cover somewhere in the middle then push the loose end of the cover toward the engine using the cover as leverage against itself
Horrible video, the absolute wrong way to do this. There are studs in the bottom of the cover that needed to be removed first, THEN the cover will pop off without any effort.
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults). Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals. I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults. I plan to replace the piston rings. Would you suggest the timing chain as well? I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together. Thanx, Mark ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
yeah there's a lip on the oil pan that holds that in place. a lot of people shave that little lip down but you're going to have leakage problems on your
Had this truck since 09 and when I got it the front main seal was leaking, I had to break it down and take off timing cover to replace seal, it never leaked ever. I then had to replace timing chain in 2014 and again in 2016 and still no leaks. Now I'm just going to overhaul the motor, top and bottom.So 7 years and no leaks is pretty good I'd say or maybe I got lucky and sealed it correctly.
Didn't show a G-dam thing. All bolts are removed , except two lower ones apparently, & it still took around 7 minutes . I'm trying to figure out how to get lower pulley yolk off the crank snout & decide to watch a bit of comedy relief.
Take the two boots out of the bottom of the oil pan in front , they go into the timing cover , use a 4 mm socket and remove them " then the cover will come off easy or at least easiest compared to NOT removing the bolts
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults). Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals. I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults. I plan to replace the piston rings. Would you suggest the timing chain as well? I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together. Thanx, Mark ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
@@Mark-gg6iy if the truck wasn't smoking or giving any sign of blow by aka bad piston rings , then LOOK AT the cylinder walls and see if you have ANY wear in them ! If no noticable wear in the cylinder walls and no previous indication of smoking or blow by then leave the piston rings alone don't touch them ! As for the oil pump , yeah you could replace it , but again did it have good oil pressure ? Then leave it alone ! Drain the oil pan very good , hell wash it out with kerosene and flush it out with a fresh quart or two of cheap oil , make sure they use NEW yield to torque head bolts at proper torque specs and SEQUENCE when replacing the head ! Yes I would definitely replace the timing chain and tensioner and guide with NEW timing set gears and all ! Use rtv sealant provided with kit on oil pan between the timing cover and the front of oil pan and DO NOT crank it till it dries for 24 hours !
@@markharris4260 Thank's for the rely. Yes, I agree with the rings, I was getting carried away. No previous sign of a problem, no oil lost during normal operation so I'll leave it alone, same with the oil pump. Apparently, OEM high-volume pumps are difficult to come by from my reading. The coolant pump I think might be a good compromise. Again no sign of any issues. The radiator was recently replaced. Yes, I'll drop the oil pan and clean with attn to oil pump pick-up screen. I'll be doing the head bolts and understand about torque-to-yield bolt sequence & obeying manufacturers' recommended installation practices (drop of oil on threads & bolt head mating face for example). The manufacturer recommended timing chain replacement of 80-120k so if I have the original it's more than time to change. Understood about the cover sealant installation and delay. cheers. Do you think crank-bearing inspection a good idea when the pan is off? Apparently, this motor has issues with this.
@@Mark-gg6iy if the engine wasn't knocking or making any strange rumbling sound then I would probably not go to the extra work to remove the oil pan and inspect each crankshaft main bearing , as you may or may not know you have to almost remove the engine to get enough clearance between the frame and oil pan to remove it completely ! If there is no and was no oil pan LEAKS prior to you working on the truck I would just remove the timing cover ( it's aluminum ) and be sure to remove the STUDS that protrude through the timing cover at the very bottom and go through the front bottom of the oil pan as it makes removing the timing cover much much easier , and in case you didn't know it's NOT just a 4 mm socket that you use to remove the timing cover lower studs ( be sure to remove the oil pan front nuts first which thread over the timing cover studs their 10 mm ) but use the hex type socket for these studs their called STAR SOCKETS for male fitting studs as the hex star socket is made perfectly to fit these power studs AND here's a TIP if you can ONLY get the passenger side stud out that's fine as the timing chain cover will still be easy to remove wit the driver side stud still in the timing cover ! It happened to me so I know !
@@markharris4260 I was unaware the oil pan could not be easily removed. Yes, I have gathered sufficient YT info on the timing chain cover removal & reinstallation. Thanks for all.
Don't give advice unless you know what you're talking about... You DON'T drop the pan... You take the nuts off the studs that are in the bottom of the timing cover, then you take the studs out, the cover comes right off without any resistance at all.
Why would you show 6 uncut minutes of struggling with a cover?
Thank you for the heads up!! Lol
New title.._how to grunt and breath heavily in futility as you wiggle a cover around.
it is in-fact a pain in the ass! LOL
lol
thanks for sharing with us the reality of hard work. We can't afford to pay mechanics what they are worth.
@@frankclements1431 I'm supposed to be getting an s10 with a timing chain problem soon. It'll be my first truck. High chance I wont be able to move for a week
To make this easy remove the 2 studs going through the oil pan from the bottom of the timing cover with a 4mm socket
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults).
Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals.
I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults.
I plan to replace the piston rings.
Would you suggest the timing chain as well?
I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together.
Thanx, Mark
ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
taking the cover off is the story of my life. Every thing I touch is hard labor.
loving the FFDP in the background lol
always jamming them, they rock
Abandoned240sx hell yeah!!
Video starts at 7:25
Helpful video!!!
TAKE THE STUDS OUT FIRST! The studs that go through the pan unscrew from the bottom and the cover will come off without any problem. You just showed everyone how to do this the wrong way.
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults).
Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals.
I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults.
I plan to replace the piston rings.
Would you suggest the timing chain as well?
I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together.
Thanx, Mark
ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
This video should have been titled man vs timing chain cover
put a screw driver handle or a bar under the edge of that timing chain cover somewhere in the middle then push the loose end of the cover toward the engine using the cover as leverage against itself
No, he needed to pull the studs out of the bottom of the cover first, then it would have come off without any problem.
Good video and this one really shows us some needed details about the job. Thanks..
Horrible video, the absolute wrong way to do this. There are studs in the bottom of the cover that needed to be removed first, THEN the cover will pop off without any effort.
I'm having the same problem getting the cover off just like this video
I'm going to try the Cloyes timing set that eliminates the BS tensioner.
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults).
Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals.
I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults.
I plan to replace the piston rings.
Would you suggest the timing chain as well?
I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together.
Thanx, Mark
ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
Maybe on the newer ones it's a 4mm socket to remove those studs but mine needed an E4 reverse torx socket
Yes it does an e4 inverted torx is what the tool to use however a 4mm soclet will alao take them out when needed both are right.
Man do you folks not loosen the front two pan side bolts ? You know oil pan rail bolts
I've done both ways
yeah there's a lip on the oil pan that holds that in place. a lot of people shave that little lip down but you're going to have leakage problems on your
timing cover
Had this truck since 09 and when I got it the front main seal was leaking, I had to break it down and take off timing cover to replace seal, it never leaked ever. I then had to replace timing chain in 2014 and again in 2016 and still no leaks. Now I'm just going to overhaul the motor, top and bottom.So 7 years and no leaks is pretty good I'd say or maybe I got lucky and sealed it correctly.
The Shooting Gallery but you put a new seal? or you used silicone?
The cover has a rubber seal and I did not replace it, it was still good. I used silicon on the bottom of the cover where it meets the trans.
The Shooting Gallery ok bro thanks...
You showed how to take it apart, but not how to put it back together (The hard part) Timing marks ? ?
Man: Pulls out screwdriver for pry bar...
Me: NOW YOU'RE THINKING WITH YOUR DIPSTICK!
1999 GMC Sonoma How to meth a timing chain cover
I hate working on the 2.2l vortec
How many miles when the chain broke down?
160 thousand+
Didn't show a G-dam thing. All bolts are removed , except two lower ones apparently, & it still took around 7 minutes . I'm trying to figure out how to get lower pulley yolk off the crank snout & decide to watch a bit of comedy relief.
u needed to wiggle the cover loose ,comes right out
Dang, Looks painful!
i appreciate your desire to help but FOR GODS SAKE!
Take the two boots out of the bottom of the oil pan in front , they go into the timing cover , use a 4 mm socket and remove them " then the cover will come off easy or at least easiest compared to NOT removing the bolts
Question for you and anybody else: my 98 Sonoma 2.2L with 176k is having the head done (blown gasket....previous paid ($1,350) shop mechanic ripped me off not doing anything to the warped head amongst other faults).
Pressure tested, milled and valve job is now being done for $350 by professionals.
I think it now wise to replace the coolant and oil pumps even though no indication of faults.
I plan to replace the piston rings.
Would you suggest the timing chain as well?
I ask partly because I see some kits that have the two pumps and chain together implying this is normally done together.
Thanx, Mark
ps...I prefer to keep this truck, other than the current problems it is in perfect condition.
@@Mark-gg6iy if the truck wasn't smoking or giving any sign of blow by aka bad piston rings , then LOOK AT the cylinder walls and see if you have ANY wear in them ! If no noticable wear in the cylinder walls and no previous indication of smoking or blow by then leave the piston rings alone don't touch them ! As for the oil pump , yeah you could replace it , but again did it have good oil pressure ? Then leave it alone ! Drain the oil pan very good , hell wash it out with kerosene and flush it out with a fresh quart or two of cheap oil , make sure they use NEW yield to torque head bolts at proper torque specs and SEQUENCE when replacing the head ! Yes I would definitely replace the timing chain and tensioner and guide with NEW timing set gears and all ! Use rtv sealant provided with kit on oil pan between the timing cover and the front of oil pan and DO NOT crank it till it dries for 24 hours !
@@markharris4260 Thank's for the rely. Yes, I agree with the rings, I was getting carried away. No previous sign of a problem, no oil lost during normal operation so I'll leave it alone, same with the oil pump. Apparently, OEM high-volume pumps are difficult to come by from my reading.
The coolant pump I think might be a good compromise. Again no sign of any issues. The radiator was recently replaced.
Yes, I'll drop the oil pan and clean with attn to oil pump pick-up screen.
I'll be doing the head bolts and understand about torque-to-yield bolt sequence & obeying manufacturers' recommended installation practices (drop of oil on threads & bolt head mating face for example).
The manufacturer recommended timing chain replacement of 80-120k so if I have the original it's more than time to change.
Understood about the cover sealant installation and delay.
cheers.
Do you think crank-bearing inspection a good idea when the pan is off? Apparently, this motor has issues with this.
@@Mark-gg6iy if the engine wasn't knocking or making any strange rumbling sound then I would probably not go to the extra work to remove the oil pan and inspect each crankshaft main bearing , as you may or may not know you have to almost remove the engine to get enough clearance between the frame and oil pan to remove it completely ! If there is no and was no oil pan LEAKS prior to you working on the truck I would just remove the timing cover ( it's aluminum ) and be sure to remove the STUDS that protrude through the timing cover at the very bottom and go through the front bottom of the oil pan as it makes removing the timing cover much much easier , and in case you didn't know it's NOT just a 4 mm socket that you use to remove the timing cover lower studs ( be sure to remove the oil pan front nuts first which thread over the timing cover studs their 10 mm ) but use the hex type socket for these studs their called STAR SOCKETS for male fitting studs as the hex star socket is made perfectly to fit these power studs AND here's a TIP if you can ONLY get the passenger side stud out that's fine as the timing chain cover will still be easy to remove wit the driver side stud still in the timing cover ! It happened to me so I know !
@@markharris4260 I was unaware the oil pan could not be easily removed.
Yes, I have gathered sufficient YT info on the timing chain cover removal & reinstallation.
Thanks for all.
you needed more death metal on your soundtrack
How NOT to remove the timing chain cover.
A screwdriver at bottom corners makes easier
That's me butt add in a lot of 4 letter words and hammered dent or two😃
Its easier if you use s 4mm socket an remove the 2 studs once there removed it slides right out
Where would the 2 studs be at
The bottom of the timing cover, they come down through the front of the oil pan. Take the nuts off first, then the studs.
I'm doing the same thing on my red 2000 GMC sonoma. Can't remove the pulley
you have to use a pulley remover, I used a steering wheel puller
Thanks. I have a puller at work.
This is hard to watch
Wow should have tried using tools such as a putty knife Maybe LOL LOL
dude drop the oil pan
Zaybo 1 is that what you had to do ?
Don't give advice unless you know what you're talking about... You DON'T drop the pan... You take the nuts off the studs that are in the bottom of the timing cover, then you take the studs out, the cover comes right off without any resistance at all.
You can't do it