Upgraded MRP Bud Light Tunnel Hull Rc Boat - Kyosho Dolphin Outboard Motor W/ Castle Creations 1410
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- Thanks for Watching Ironclad Rc Tinker test and tune everything
Personal contact information ironcladedout@gmail.com
-- Here's a list of every rc boat supplier that I can think of, hope this helps --
SMC RACING
www.smc-racing...
PROBOAT
www.proboatmod...
Horizonhobby
www.horizonhob...
OXIDEAN MARINE
oxideanmarine....!
OFFSHORE ELECTRIC
www.offshoreel...
BONZI SPORTS
www.bonzisport...
H&M RC BOATS
www.hydromarin...
ZIPKITS
zippkits.com/
WHOLTS RC BOATS
www.rcraceboat...
SEADUCER RC BOATS
seaducerboats....
MAD RACING
www.ebay.com/u...
ML BOAT WORKS
mlboatworksrc....
RATTLE SNAKE RC
www.allrc1.com/
MAD LIZARD
www.madlizardp...
STUMP FAB
stumpfabricati...
DEADAHEAD RC
www.deadaheadr...
RC BOAT BITZ
rcboatbitz.com/
TEN SHOCK
www.tenshock.com/
MHZ RC BOATS
www.mhz-powerb...
MODEL SHIPS AHOY
www.ebay.com/u...
I got that 1.Not the bold, but I have the outboard but yeah, if you've got a brush lesson and I think my buddies's gonna do it.I gave it to him awesome
You get the full F1 package Big B, which includes breaking flex shafts and destroyed steering systems 😅. I agree with another comment; keep the plastic horns and save the servo during an impact. I broke 2 servo's on my 33" F1 tunnel.
Although 48mph is a great result, I think you are pushing this hull way beyond its limits. Another blow over is 100% going to happen at those speeds and I fear you will totally destroy that beauty. I would say: de-tune this vintage runner and go for a purpose built F1 tunnel. The Zippkits 30" tunnel is a great one. Or, if you prefer the full DIY experience, I share the drawings of my F1 Tunnels for free. Awesome content as always, keep up the good work 😎 Cheers, DJ
I've been looking at a few fiberglass tunnel hulls, building a boat from Your plans may be a good winter project to take on. I love the design of your boat she's a head turner for sure.
Got the drive line and steering upgraded hopefully it holds up.
You know I like your show too. By the way, I forgot to tell you that so anyway, I just wanted to let you know that keeps sending those ideas and tips and tools. It's Awesome boat on My friend. Boat on my friend
Thank you for teaching us a valuable lesson.
Servo saver's should ALSO be used on the water too!
God gave us one horn, take care of it 😏
This is a great project, everything that applies to rc boats goes into tunnel hulls.
I did the same thing, upgraded the servo, neglected the horn, it twisted the arm over sideways 🤣, so I think what we have learned in class today-ironclad = metal parts.
Great video Big B 👍
Probably keep the plastic horn something has to give lol.
Hay we never really cared about these kid of boats through the years they were always slow...the front ends just bobed up and down..ex...B.. you are awesome man..what you have done to this one. Wow...keep on my man...to cool..
I've seen a few videos of this boat running in its stock form, lol. She's come a long way, that's for sure.
Hey B, at least the old hull didnt explode when it blew over. And like someone said, you got 48!
Maravilla de lanchas, ojalá algún día yo tuviese una.
She’s a little ripper! Pretty cool
Okay so I have a mrp miss Budweiser project and a mrp fountain project so it makes my day to see you ripping a mrp! ❤ always love your vids! I really need to start posting
48 mph is wicked fast for the old girl. Back in the day, it was a challenge to get that boat past 40 with 12 Ni-cd cells. Don't give up because I know you can get it sorted. As I said before, going with a 1 piece flex cable is a must for that kind of power - I've shredded several flex cables in my TFL mini outboards that use similar 2 piece cables with square ends. I've yet to strip a cable after soldering the cable to the prop shaft. Sorting the steering issue is a head scratcher. I can't help but think that your boat might need some ballast - That boat is feather light compared to many modern F1 boats. Maybe run the heaviest battery pack you got or possibly two packs in parallel. A turn fin on the right sponson might help also. Who knows, all you can do is try different set ups until you find a happy medium which is something you excel at. At the end of the day, you're achieving your goal because It sure is entertaining watching both your successes and failures. Keep at it brotha!
Thanks brother, I appreciate all the support.. I just finished sorting the drive line out, I used an octura sleeve bushing in-between the two stock bushings running a 3/16 stub shaft with a .130 cable. Used captured ball rod ends with turn buckles for my steering linkage, hopefully she holds up. 🙏
Great build Big B , 👍
Maravilla gran velocidad y deslizamiento estable.
I’ve been eyeing the tfl cardwhell f1 tunnel. Almost bought it a few years ago but now the price went up a couple hundred. Seeing you mess around with the bud light giving me the itch
I've been looking at the Caldwell too bummer the transom has that hard angle on it, kinda prevents upgrading to a outboard style setup. (Guess it can be done with some heavy modifications) Awesome looking boat, seen some running videos on UA-cam it's a ripper for sure.
I would use a piece of paper between the horn and servo for more traction when it gets slightly stripped out.
48 is quick ol son! Hate to see the mechanical issues . Definitely just part of the hobby.
It's a bummer, But i got to see where all the weak points are so I can correct them for future runs. IRONCLADED OUT C'MON
THATS RIGHT!
Got to throw some spare horns in the box big B😂😂
That hull is supper cool👍🤙🇨🇦
Roger that, will do!
It needs that bad ass TFL aluminum lower unit
Awesome cartwheels keep the balance forward turn your steering throw way down turning a outboard is way different than a rudder the thrust line changes making it steer faster than a rudder
Thanks I'll try this
Damn it boy, talk about a bad day at the water
It happens, unfortunately. I got everything sorted out ready for round five c-mon
@@IRONCLADRC it definitly does! I’ve had days where every boat I bring breaks haha
GREAT RUN B. I LIKE TUNNELS AND I CAN"T LIE EH?
48 and no smoke - still a great day!
C'mon
And btw, love the channel. Your awesome dude!
I appreciate that!
Even the alloy horns strip out on crawlers anyway. It might last you longer in that though. Either that or try a servo saver. The outboard is a big steering load.
I would put a small adjustable turn fin forward to back on with a 2 or 3 degree angle with the fins leading edge at balance point. Years back Prather tunnels had a fin & also had release holes. Check it out if you can
I'm planning on it just doing some testing with out one, first tunnel hull so I'm just going through my testing phases
The other thing I was wondering? With a full scale boat, we used a hydraulic Jack plate on a Hydrostream rated for 140hp. We ran it with a 250hp Yamaha. The boat did 105mph with a 28 pitch prop. Is there anything like a electronic Jack plate plate. Every full scale boat has a Jack plate, especially outboards. Does the RC industry even offer that option?
I don't think there's an off the shelf jack plate for FE or nitro boats, I've seen a few guys custom fabricate a tilt and trim unit for their outboards using a servo.. actually fairly strait forward setup, I think a jack plate may be a little more complicated but can be done probably use a linear actuator for precision tuning, if weight wasn't such a big factor they make micro Hydraulic cylinders, with miceo pumps and little hydraulic Reservoirs which would be perfect for tilt and trim (Ment for rc excavators)
Can't blame it on Donatello this time that's for sure LOL
I'm not sure you will be able to sort all of the issues as I real tunnel hull when coming into a corner they trim engine down and then when they straighten out they trim engine up and that is what stops the over steering. Love your videos tho and the boat looks great!
I had a 25 dollar hot racing servo saver break on my usa-1 monster truck this weekend. I feel your pain of steering issues
Yep that's exactly what I was talking about pay top dollar for a brittle aluminum part. Bummer to hear.
I keep the plastic horn and give the boat a new more masculine paint job!
Compared to the real design there is a few things wrong but 1 that mite make a big difference is the motor is taller then the canape so if u were to taper the canape to the top of the motor it should give you a front end down force an lower the air drag as it hits the motor but if u taper it back down lightly like a small wave in the water it should help plant the front end an help cool the motor + lift the back end of the boat like slope it slowly till it reaches the top of the motor an round the top were the air will suck to the back of the boat before the motor ( creating a lift off water an some air blowing around motor / outdrive ) while pushing the front end of the boat down. Just a suggestion!
Motor is dragging in the wind causing a front end lift
or add a wing on the front end like a Indy car :)
use plastic butter knifes
Great ideas I'll kep it in mind
Hey, thats a fast boat too 🚤😊
Fast broken boat lol.
It seems like it's going faster than 48 though...
I would use an aluminum servo horn
From what i know and heard the outboards kind off got out off use because off reliability issues. Believe even the new onces also have certain max rpm and power recommendations because off that.
Also wondered, since a lot off guess (who know i guess) suggested to put cg back why you didn't change angle off the motor to get the nose down.
The real onces trim their motor during turns and straights, so getting that the same isn't possible i asume... Just thinking...
I've been messing with the trim angle, just haven't had enough time on the water to find her sweet spot. Only my fourth outing and first ever tunnel hull style boat, there's a huge learning curve with this one.
Going to have to go to a aluminum steering arm plastic will never work cutting water pick up will not effect water flow when you go to a smaller prop you should drill a hole middle of lower unit so you can grease that cable want make more than 8 laps before it needs grease again love what you are doing can't afford to play with my boats any more you think outside the box like I used too raced in the largest outboard nitro race in south Carolina back in early 2000 with guys like Grim racer from NY
The race I'm referring to was the largest outboard race in the world no one place have you ever seen so many nitro outboards in your life I also raced outrigger hydro's by David Showers out of Florida the motor I ran were Mac motor developt by Andy Brown I have the same tunnel you have never ran the same kind of setup you are but I do have a HTB tunnel Hull with a lawless lower I always wanted to convert ESC brushless lipo crazy lol
That’s ripping on this thing. Stock it would’ve maybe done 20 with the factory motor and 7 cell nicd and mechanical speed control
Love that style boat. Is there a 30"ish kit out there that would scale to the outboards OFE sells?
Yes, Zippkits has a 30" tunnel kit.
I've found that tunnel hull style boat hulls are few and far between, like cozy mentioned zipkits has the g30, cozy has a 23" tunnel hull plans available, I think ML BOAT WORKS has a 30 or 35" kit but it's to big for the tfl mini outboard ose sells.
More negative tilt on the outboard.
Nice 48 mph i like it, you seem like know know your stuff thats for sure!!!!!!!! im trying to upgrade a boat i have bc the motors are waaaay to slow but I'm lost on a problem need help my boat doesn't have a rudder to turn with, the way it turns is it cuts power to the motor thats on the inside of the side you want to turn like a "Tank would turn with tracks if i upgrade the electronics how do i Keep from having to install a rudder. im just afraid if i run these two brushless "faster" motors it will burn up what came stock on the boat what do you think???? help please it you get time bro thanks Big B
You'll need a rx/TX that'll mix the steering using the throttle channel pretty sure it's called differential thrust.
I think the boat will perform batter with a center mounted rudder, guess it depends on the hull type.
Is the lower unit completely plastic? Do they make a all aluminum lower unit “foot”
Oh yea they have several types it's actually a very cool part of the hobby I'm just starting to explore
www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=Outboards+%26+Outdrives
Hello Big B was just wondering have you tried this charger or it's brand. ProTek RC "Prodigy 610ez AC/DC" LiHV/LiPo Balance Battery Charger (2-6S/10A/100W)
price is $66 dollars with 1 year warrant an can balance an charge up to 6s up to 10amp thinking about give it a try just running it at 1/10 of a amp for every 100 mah"s on battery ( Yes / No / Proceed at your own risk ) ?
No sir I haven't, I had have a pro test charger which has been nice no issues
Where can I get a mount like that? I’m putting an 800 kv on my boat 😅
I made the mount custom, first or second video in the play list.
My last 3 times out have been nothing but a disappointment! I feel your pain!
We went to horizon fest this weekend and broke 3 vehicles in the first hour of being there
LMAO I have the same one in the garge with a KB Outboard
I dont see anyone sayin it ... your trim on the outboard looks like it's running the bow up under power.
Roger that thanks
@IRONCLADRC you've got lots of patience that little mrp hull is hard to get sorted out. I'm impressed you got it this far, 👏 might have to add some skid fins if it won't stay put. Thanks for sharin
that was a short video what are you talking about!
Keep the plastic horn!! A $2 horn hurts less to replace than a $40 servo!
Amen
use a four bladed prop in real life the bout use a four or five bladed prop
Hard to find 4 bade props for 3/16 prop dhaft almost non existing
Looks like the company cause hit again.
To funny lol
Trim that motor to push the nose down in a straight! You built that adjustment for a reason!
I've been messing with trim angles, it's only my 4th outing with the boat, first tunnel hull, there's a learning curve from hull to hull.