How to Diagnose KIA Smart Key Push Button System | KIA Keyless Entry System Explained
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In thus video I show you the diagnostic procedure for KIA vehicles with Smart Key system.
#kiadiagnostics
#hyundai
#kia #kiamotors
#smartkey #keylessgo #keylessentry
Disclaimer:
Any information contained in this video is just the understanding of “KIA Diagnostics” and it is not an official guide or reference, so everything provided in this video is just a share of our experience and understanding and they are provided as a courtesy for your reference only. So, if you are using any part of this video, use the information at your own risk. We highly advise you to check the manufacturer owner’s manual before performing any act of removal, diagnosis, inspection, or repair on your car to know about what you are authorized to do on your car, what the correct and legal procedure is and what risks might be involved, also viewers are strongly advised to consult a licensed person before any sort of inspection or repair. Due to the factors beyond the control of “KIA Diagnostics”, we cannot guarantee against improper use of information or tools or systems, or the procedure provided. “KIA Diagnostics” disclaims any damage, injury or loss caused by your decision to follow the steps provided in this video. - Авто та транспорт
Great tutorial Sir, please what type of Scan tool is that? Thanks for the video ❤
Hi my friend. That’s CarmanScan. But many other scanners can do very same thing on Hyundai and Kia vehicles too.
2015 genesis coupe b1602 and I forgot the other code but smarta no response car was in a accident and passenger side on the windshield was broken to allow water and then I pulled the smart key module it was corroded I can start car only with key in the holder and then dies 4 seconds after it starts then immobilizer light is on then no start just crank also door handle unlock botton on the outside doesn’t work I’ve come down to where I need to replace the module any input?
Would love to pick your brain on an issue I’ve been troubleshooting for some time.
I have a 2010 genisis coupe 3.8 smart key
With an intermittent no starts and fault code that only appears if the car is started in short bursts for a long time it doesn’t start or if you press the start button, the car cranks for the entire cranking
cycle till it stops
The dealership replace the PDM and the smart key unit as well as the Ecsl
The car will start intermittently run and drive fantastically. There are no other fault codes in any of the computers l. using a autel ultra amongst other tools.
Hi my Friend. Do you remember the fault code that appears intermittently?
@@GoProAuto sorry I thought I added it.
P1696
@@googleuser6531 This code appears when there is an authentication failure during the key verification when you crank the engine. You mentioned 3 components that are replaced! I have the following suggestions:
1- Have you checked the communication line between SMK and PCM? That wire is important to be checked.
2- If you have not neutralized the PCM, this time you can perform the ECM neuralization, then key programming. If you have another key, try that one this time.
3- If your car has a "fob key holder" when that intermittent fault appears, try to start the engine by putting the key into holder and then cranking.
4- Make sure the fob key is not on any key set or chain.
@@GoProAuto Yea this is what’s I’ve read and gone thought on prodemand. Yes I have checked pin 74 at the ecu which should be the immobilizer communication line be which according to prodemand should be a signal of 80% high 20% low when transmitting and 70 % high 30 %low when receiving
And there is a signal they checked it with the scope not really sure what I’m looking for, but the signal/voltage is the same when The car starts and when the car does not start no change in the signal wire 74 from the ECU to the smart key unit.
The PCM has actually also been replaced with the same part number cloned and put in the car and the vehicle was doing the exact same thing starting intermittently and the same fault code would generate intermittently
Also, the PCM was neutralized along with the PDM using an autel IM 608
Programmed two aftermarket keys and one used OEM key with no success
Also check the engines timing on all four camshaft sensors with the scope and crankshaft and compared with good signal, and the signal was pretty much the same to verify that the timing is correct.
The keys show that they programmed 2 aftermarket keys currently
The car will detect, locking the lock see the key being removed from the car when the ignitions on with each of the keys. There seems to be no difference and if the car will start or not based on the key position, whether it’s in the fob holder or any other position in the car. It has started multiple times with the key just being in the car and or being in the fob holder. The car seemingly starts when it wants to when it doesn’t start it appears that the fuel and spark is being removed from the engine.
I have two keys for the vehicle currently one is on the keychain, but I’ve been trying to start the vehicle using the key without
Will try to program another used OEM key to see if that makes a difference.
I was watching this video the receiver is that simply responsible for seeing the keys or controlling the keyless entry I haven’t been able to find any solid answers on that
I’m wondering what is responsible for seeing the key
if you have an email, I’ve got some videos and other info that I can send you that may be helpful
on a 2015 kia optima how does the antennas, RF receiver and the Smart key computer work together? I mean does the antennas just detect the key and actual data is communicated through other means or data is communicated through the antennas? where do the receiver come to play?
hope you have some time to answer this, thanks and kudos from Ethiopia✌
Hi my friend. Antennas are only used to wake up the smart key and to get them send the radio frequency to RF receiver. So, we have multiple LF antennas in different locations, when any of them is activated, it will send a Low frequency to smart key, when smart key gets the signal, it will respond by sending the smart key information to RF receiver through a Radio Frequency.
For example, when you press the button on the driver door handle, you activate the LF antenna inside the door handle, so antenna will send a low frequency to smart key, then smart key responds to RF receiver, and now RF receiver send the signal to smart key control module (after converting that to a digital signal), the last step is a signal from smart key unit to body control module to unlock the doors.
I hope I answered the question ☺️
@@GoProAuto Am enlightened by your explanation, thanks a lot🙌
looking orward to learn a lot from you
@@GoProAuto absolutely great explanation..
thank u and best of luck
No ignition in my 2015 smart key
Good afternoon please i have hyundai santa fe 2012 2.4L the car crank but no start, with code p1696 immobilizer authentication failed
Hi my friend, does this car have push button start or ignition switch?
@@GoProAuto yes please push start
Hi again,
This happens when ECM or immo system can not recognise the key. So it be happening due to the following reasons:
Faulty key or chip (sometimes works again if we program the keys again)
Faulty antenna which is supposed to detect the key fob (this antenna could be in different locations based on the car, mostly around the push button or key fob holder)
It could be also from the relevant control unit. It’s not a bad idea to check the system with a scan tool.
@K-H-diag thanks my friend, when i switch on the ignition the immobiliser light will stay on for 30 seconds and go off but when i start cranking the immobiliser light will come on again while cranking