changed a fryed cable for the first time ever today and this video was such a great help. that final touch with the indexing of rear derailleur made things so much easier and fast. thank you!
John, good guidance on internal gearing. One thing I wouldn’t do is use the round end of a 4mm Allen key to initially undo the RD cable nut, always use the short section Allen key first.
Great demonstration! After months of fretting and delaying, I changed both cables. Both went through easily to my relief. However, after tightening the cable and pinch bolts, none of the gears worked. There must be a lack of tension somewhere. Off to my local shop now to get some help.
Glad you found it useful LDC!! Obviously, you get the option of me doing it for you, if you fancy popping down for a visit. However , doing it yourself is really satisfying 👍😉
Very informative video, BUT the routing kit you link to doesn't work for gear cables, they are too thin; though yours obviously worked so maybe the product has changed 🤔 I wish I had read the reviews on Amazon, which complain about this, before purchase. Anyway I got my gear cable threaded using the inner cable lining, though it was quite a delicate procedure.
Good day! How to check two cables in downtube on crossing each other? Especially on early stages when the cables are new and not connected to derailleurs 😅
Hi John, another very useful video thank you, quick question when threading the new cable through the frame does the steel inner cable go through the white plastic inner (shown in option 1) as it passes through the frame or does it thread through the bikes routing only? I hope that makes sense, thanks, Tim
My Giant Defy has cable inners fitted so the first method won't work. I pulled through dental floss with the old cable and used that to pull back the new cable.
Hi, This is standard Shimano gear cable, so the thickness of the inner is 1.2 mm. It must not be confused with Shimano brake cable, which is 1.6 mm. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching. Jon
If i were to just change my handlebars with cable routing, would i do this from my brake levers i.e. detach the cables from my brake lever, route the cables through th3 handle bar and then reattach the cables to my brake levers?
Unfortunately, it's not a simple one to answer, PatenTv. Each routing process is specific to each frame manufacturer. Some manufacturers route just the inner cable through the frame, as shown in this video, whilst others route both the inner and outer through the frame. To be honest though, the more common process is to only route the inner cable through the frame, and use a frame mounting kit (Example here - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353761789484 ) to but the cable outers to the frame.
@@bikeman123Standalone cable liners can be bought online, I've bought a few packs before made by a Chinese company named Risk. You'll also need a little heat from a lighter to flare the end you want to anchor at the cable housing stop.
Solutions are satisfying only for those who have not actually tried them. This BS video that fails to address the most common and difficult problems with internal cable routing--holes in the frame to small to allow the magnets or the other silly gadgets to pass through, and plastic cases that cannot follow the cable to the other side of the frame... Instead of schilling for the manufacturers and Park Tools, the presenters would to better to admit that they have no decent solution to this problem.
There is barely 2mm hole at the bottom of my mtb frame. This is nuts! I can't even fit the bowden inside tubing through it. What a stupid design that is when both brake and dropper post tubing go right through frame. My previous mtb had full length shifting bowden and never had any problem with shifting quality.
that trick to index the rear derailleur just blew my mind. Thank you!
Blew my mind when I first saw it 👍
changed a fryed cable for the first time ever today and this video was such a great help. that final touch with the indexing of rear derailleur made things so much easier and fast. thank you!
Glad it was helpful 👍
thanks for the tip on using the old cable with your new outers to avoid the crushing the outer!
Loved that last tip on the cable slack
Yeah, it’s a great one 👍
I love your no nonsense thought process and very satisfying explanations. Subbed!
Thanks, great to have you onboard. Thanks 👍
Hands down the best explanation out there. Gave me confidences and saved my bike. Subbed!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the sub!
John, good guidance on internal gearing. One thing I wouldn’t do is use the round end of a 4mm Allen key to initially undo the RD cable nut, always use the short section Allen key first.
Great demonstration! After months of fretting and delaying, I changed both cables. Both went through easily to my relief. However, after tightening the cable and pinch bolts, none of the gears worked. There must be a lack of tension somewhere. Off to my local shop now to get some help.
Good luck with it, let us know how you get on. 👍
Love it, like your to the point no nonsense explanations
Hi G,
Glad you found the video helpful, that’s why I make them👍. Got a few more like this one coming up soon.
Thanks, Jon
15:38 thanks for sharing your idea, John. This is ingenious…this saves time
I know, that little hack is great. Apparently, it was an idea Mr Shimano himself came up with, insisting that should work on all Shimano groupsets.
Your vids are spot-on‼️👍‼️👍‼️
Thanks, Kevin, appreciate it 👍
Just the video I needed 👍
Glad you found it useful LDC!! Obviously, you get the option of me doing it for you, if you fancy popping down for a visit. However , doing it yourself is really satisfying 👍😉
@@ribblevalleycyclist might take you up on that if I ever get stuck in the future 😊
A ‘RVC fixes LDC’s Bike’ video 😂
very detailed video, thank you!
Glad you liked it 👍
Great tips, thanks 👍
No problem 👍
You saved my gears! Thank you!
Glad it helped you 👍
Fantastic quality video
A suggestion is the use of a tandem gear cable to draw two sheathing lengths in series for mechanical derailleurs , (where applicable) .
Very informative video, BUT the routing kit you link to doesn't work for gear cables, they are too thin; though yours obviously worked so maybe the product has changed 🤔 I wish I had read the reviews on Amazon, which complain about this, before purchase. Anyway I got my gear cable threaded using the inner cable lining, though it was quite a delicate procedure.
Perfect video! Worth to subscribe.
Glad you liked it!
great explanation. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Good day!
How to check two cables in downtube on crossing each other? Especially on early stages when the cables are new and not connected to derailleurs 😅
Hi John, another very useful video thank you, quick question when threading the new cable through the frame does the steel inner cable go through the white plastic inner (shown in option 1) as it passes through the frame or does it thread through the bikes routing only? I hope that makes sense, thanks, Tim
Outstanding! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Guy has so much enthusiasim like hes on a dope nice, nevertheless very good tutorial.
Thanks...... I think 🤣
Kiitos!
Thank you, Nico, will grab a coffee when I'm out on the bike 👍☕️
My Giant Defy has cable inners fitted so the first method won't work. I pulled through dental floss with the old cable and used that to pull back the new cable.
what is the diameter of the inner cable lining used here? thanks!
Hi,
This is standard Shimano gear cable, so the thickness of the inner is 1.2 mm. It must not be confused with Shimano brake cable, which is 1.6 mm.
Hope this helps, and thanks for watching.
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist so this means that a 2mm (internal diameter) ptfe tube is more than enough for the job. thank you!
If i were to just change my handlebars with cable routing, would i do this from my brake levers i.e. detach the cables from my brake lever, route the cables through th3 handle bar and then reattach the cables to my brake levers?
So it's not a full cable housing that goes inside the frame?
Unfortunately, it's not a simple one to answer, PatenTv. Each routing process is specific to each frame manufacturer. Some manufacturers route just the inner cable through the frame, as shown in this video, whilst others route both the inner and outer through the frame. To be honest though, the more common process is to only route the inner cable through the frame, and use a frame mounting kit (Example here - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353761789484 ) to but the cable outers to the frame.
My Giant Defy has inner cable liners within the frame but of course they wear at the bottom bracket guide and Giant dont seem to sell replacements.
@@bikeman123Standalone cable liners can be bought online, I've bought a few packs before made by a Chinese company named Risk. You'll also need a little heat from a lighter to flare the end you want to anchor at the cable housing stop.
Solutions are satisfying only for those who have not actually tried them. This BS video that fails to address the most common and difficult problems with internal cable routing--holes in the frame to small to allow the magnets or the other silly gadgets to pass through, and plastic cases that cannot follow the cable to the other side of the frame... Instead of schilling for the manufacturers and Park Tools, the presenters would to better to admit that they have no decent solution to this problem.
Never had the problems you’re describing. Sounds like you should just take it to someone who knows what they’re doing.
There is barely 2mm hole at the bottom of my mtb frame. This is nuts! I can't even fit the bowden inside tubing through it. What a stupid design that is when both brake and dropper post tubing go right through frame. My previous mtb had full length shifting bowden and never had any problem with shifting quality.
intro hurt my ears
Yeah, had issues with the audio on the intro. Also, not sure they're a thing any more, so don't really use it any more.