@@mrbuddha5263 well for a integrated handlebar with bleeding and setting up the gears, two hours is perfectly normal. For a stem, handlebar and electronic shifting it will be faster.
I have always done my own minor adjustments, but earlier this year went full stupid and build my own TT bike from a bare frame and a mountain of parts. Went with SRAM Red AXS and couldn’t be happier. Everything went really smoothly, including routing cables in the frame and inside the cockpit and stem. I spent basically an entire afternoon on it, taking my time to properly lube and torque everything to spec, and it was a rideable bike by the end of the day. The first outdoor ride on this bike was actually my first race of the year! Absolute rocketship.
Congratulations on the bar swap and thank you from both myself and my local bike shop/mechanic for the reinforcement that there are just some things that I am very happy to pay for!
@@ClemBtjust because you get a fit doesn’t mean it’s 100 percent perfect. It depends on that fitter style, and how they think it’s correct. Every fit you will get done will probably be different. A fit is more a point of reference, advice. But doesn’t mean it needs to be followed to a T
😂 a very good point! I technically fit on the 120, the 110 is just a little more optimal. It’s kinda like buying an aero bike when you will be more comfortable on an endurance bike I guess… I just let my vanity win 😜
Great video, but I Love that I don't have to set up or replace integrated cockpits, tubeless wheels, or bleed hydrologic disc brakes. I'm good taking it to the shop, I don't need any reason to hate my bike, lol
I love what Rose does with their one piece cockpit on their XLITE models. It technically has external cables so you can take the cockpit off without having to bleed your brakes, but they put a channel on the bottom side where you can essentially clip in the cables so they look completely hidden away as long as you don't get on your knees and look at the underside of your cockpit.
Great video, comedy relief was primo!! 😂 I’m thinking of attempting this with a rim brake bike, and feeding the cables looks like a train wreck. I’m on the hunt for an aero bar combo that has open channels (grooves), instead of having to feed it, and i found a couple but it wasn’t easy. It’s not that I can’t feed them, but just would rather have access to do simple repairs without taking the whole dam thing apart, and running stuff rim brake cables through the bar looks like it would be even worse, or impossible. I swore I would never use an aero bar, but it does look cleaner, and the flats on top seem way more comfortable on my hands and wrists than a round bar, after trying them. I’m impressed that you were able to get this done, 7 hours aside, who cares, you still did it and didn’t have to take it to a shop to finish it. Looks great by the way, hope your bar and stem sizing is how you like it, or changing it is a new set of money and repair work hours 😅cheaper and easier to start doing Yoga and make the bike fit by being more flexible 😊
The plastic tubes that are in the bars when you purchased the bars are used to pull the brake cables through. Can also pull the steel cable from cable routing kit because it fits within plastic tube. Saw the plastic tube in the bars but then it was gone when it was time to route the cables.
The head mechanic at Ritte warned me that wouldn’t actually help with the hydraulic hoses. Great for cables tho. Just didn’t include it in the video cause it was already a bit long 😜
@@MitchBoyer Have a cable route kit that included steel cable and barb fitting to press into hydraulic cable. Just run steel cable through plastic tube then pull plastic tube attach barb fitting to steel cable and press into hydraulic cable. Then pull steel cable which pulls hydraulic cable through bars. Every carbon bar and frame I have purchased uses the plastic tubes which makes the job of pulling cables a 2 minute job.
Awesome job! in your case, you really didn't have to cut the cables. Just undo the "stealthamjig" using the right torx tool, pull out the nut and you're golden.
@ 4:52 the red olive actually screws off (its reverse-threaded i think). So no need to cut the hose to get that nut off next time. I’d say Sram is genius for that removeable olive! Just put a fresh new one after you’re done and its good.
I just yank the tube out with a pointed plier and trim off the crushed section. Usually takes me less than an hour to install as an amateur do it yourself bike maintenance. If you find sram easy, bleeding and centering on a shimano is even easier. But my OCD will take me 6hours of adjusting the levers and bartapes to be absolutely symmetrical (to the extend of measuring the overlap gap of each loops of the wrap to be exact lol)
I am so happy with my heavy selfmodified fixiebike. I don't have any of your problems, because I simply don't care. Believe it or not, I still have fun riding it.
The other thing you can do with those tube-end fittings is tie a bit of string or monofilament to them *before* you take the tube out of whatever it's threaded through. Obviously, the string needs to be longer than the full length of the integrated tube route, so that it extends beyond the inlet & outlet. But once you've done that, the next time that particular piece (handlebar, downtube, fork tube, whatever) needs to be threaded with a cable or hydraulic line, you already have a "pilot string" to pull a heavier pilot tube or string for the final install. The magnetic tools are nice, but sometimes a pilot string works better...and if you're selling a take-off, your customer will appreciate you as well.
life pro tip: use a small allen key vs one of those mini screw drivers, broke about 4 of those mini screw drivers last bars I replaced. Keep the videos coming!
I paid a bike mechanic on both of my integrated cable bikes. Neither seemed to complain. Both are something I really don’t expect to touch and I assume even a headset service can be done without having to rerun anything. That you were able to do it is a good sign - def not easy, but doable. I heard wireless brakes with reservoirs at the calipers are coming. That would be amazing / a little scary.
As my current master mechanic says "Aero does not mean sh*t when I have to set up this integrated bulls*t and they're just doing weekend rides for fun". He's kind of right though, in where the consumer pays a premium, but most don't receive the benefits.
I delbrately chose all 3 of my bikes with semi integrated cabling only for exactly this reason. I want to do my own mech work and not have it take hours, and cost a fortune with proprietary parts.
That would’ve been nice to do, but the hoses would be in the way (they need to be routed through the bars in order to be flush with the spacers beneath) :/
When figuring out how much you cut off the steerer by measuring the bit you cut off, you have to add the width of the blade. You were a lot closer to 4mm than you think.
Was ordering integrated handlebar in January. Cancelled as found out I can't do some simple adjustments easy with stem and separate bar. And most I got were carbon... went with aluminium and titanium. 2 road bars. I get gifted a bike with an integrated cockpit , I always change for simple bars..😂
I can respect that! Ultimately it comes down to what’s important to you. Looks, functionality, aero, etc. I will say, if I can survive swapping integrated handlebars, anyone can! 😂
Pro tip: use a small strap or strip of velcro between your frame triangle and the arm of your fork to hold your fork up into the headset when taking the stem off 🫡
ur bike frame need to support fully integrated handlebar? , I still dont get where is the limitation on for example a semi integrated handlebar leaving 2 cables externally, is it the space in the frame?
Just the fact alone that instead of mineral oil, SRAM uses DOT fluid makes me avoid the groupset entirely. (not that i could ever afford it in the first place). Appreciate the fact that they have thorough maintenance vids though.
When I moved from 42cm bars to 38cm, my knees hit the bar ends on steep climbs. Fortunately I was able to flare them with a car jack( they’re $15 alloy bars). Good thing to know before you buy carbon bars.
You don't have to cut off old barbs and olives in order to fit them through the cockpit. You have to cur them off and replace them because they're a compression fittings and they are not reusable.
100% agree that SRAM has a much better home mechanic dataset than Shimano. I have both SRAM and Shimano setups, and it's always a PITA to find the appropriate Shimano instructions. Freetoride UA-cam, great help.
I've had the exact opposite experience. I bled my Shimano brakes for years, got my first SRAM groupset and after 5 tries I gave up and sent it to a mechanic.
Right!? I would guess it has to do with maintaining the structural integrity/stiffness of the bars. This one was pretty decent, but some of the bars I’ve seen barely have room for the cables to squeeze through 😳
@@MitchBoyer The most complex one I've installed is the Farsports F1 one-piece cockpit and is my most disliked too due to its inconsistent manufacturing quality. I've had to install this model on three different bikes. The cockpit is so non-compliant even my two-piece aluminium cockpit doesn't feel that bone-jarring and my cockpit is on a 6061 triple-butted aluminium frame rolling on 25 mm clinchers wrapped around a pair of aluminium 2008 Mavic Aksiums.
@@michaelnewman4302you can reuse them. If they don’t leak then they are fine. Just check after installation. Quick link on a bike chain is also not supposed to be reused. Do you throw those away too after opening them?
The fact that it took an inexperienced handyman 7.5 hours to change an integrated cockpit where a regular cockpit would have been half an hour. This is what’s wrong with the industry. To charge even half the time it took you at standard workshop rates is ridiculous for changing a handlebar
It gets worse - a bike with mechanical shifting and these screwball setups require (to use Campagnolo's term) "Maximum Smoothness" cables to shift worth a damn! $100 for ONE of these makes one start to think about electronic shifting next time - exactly what (just like with disc brakes) the planned-obsolescence marketing-mavens designed! My stem/bar (not one piece) change is gonna put the hoses/cables UNDER the stem and bar tape instead of inside, so I only have to f--k around with this once! I HATE this s--t!
What is the name or part number of that "little piece" you installed (around the 5:36 mark)? Is that something that a bike shop would have? I'm guessing since you went to Ritte directly, they had that part on hand?
Yeah unfortunately I don’t think it’s available for consumers or even bike shops. I got it from the head mechanic at Ritte and he mentioned that they only give them to bike manufacturers. It was so helpful I really wish they sold it!
No thank you to intergrated handlebars, for myself it's not worth the effort and headaches, I hear other mechanics cursing all the time when working with intergrated handlebars, so to say I will have not plans to joining that party any time soon.
I will never own a bike with fully integrated stem/bars and internal cable runs. Just no. You don't have to deal with all that stuff; you can stick with the classic external style, which looks -- classic -- and costs an almost imperceptible amount of watts in aerodynamic drag. BTW, you can easily adjust the Park stand to work with the front wheel on the floor.
Overriding the bike fitters advice, for looks? Not sure that’s a good idea.. not sure a 120 stem looks better than a 110, or if anyone else could tell the difference? The 110 would have been lighter too
This is why most of the bike mechanics don’t like to work with internal cables. Cuz it pain in the ass when come to headsets bearings change and more etc.
@@MitchBoyer I got over 20 years in the shops my friend! Muscle memory! Doesn't mean I know everything. True story. When I was going to buy my current bike, I took your BMC video into consideration. I went with a Roadmachine 01 Five and built it to a three. You were right man. Great bike. Thanks for the advice! Maybe some day we will cross paths and do a challenge together 😁
@@andarenbici there’s a lot more to the bike fit than stem length! Carla helped me find a range of positions that work well for me depending on the context of the ride. Ranging from more aero to relaxed to endurance for gravel rides. The longer stem is more aggressive but still within my bike fit range.
yup, i prefer to run shimano for compatibility but installation is not a contest. sram does it so much better than shimano. and shimano already improved compared to previous gen that was probably designed by a macaque
Nice video. But better don't even try to calculate how much you would have to ride your bike for your time savings on the road to make up for the extra time setting it up... ;-)
If bike mechanics don’t like dealing with integrated cables, they probably aren’t charging enough for that type of service. As a customer, I’m happy to pay what a service is worth but I really don’t want to hear any complaints. If you don’t like doing the work, keep it to yourself.
I might be wrong, but I think once it's been used it becomes compressed on the hose and no longer unscrews. Or maybe my arms have atrophied so much from cycling I'm just very weak 😂
my stuff is not integrated. maybe my day will come - i just got my first bike about a year and ahalf ago and i have no desire to upgrade yet. your experience is my nightmare - on far too many occasions have i tried to DIY only to FEU (let the reader understand). This is why i don't feel bad paying ppl money to do things for me - ever.
Sooo how much $$ was spent in addition to hours? 90 grams for how much money? I get that's it for content on YT and all, but I cannot imagine all that making any significant difference whatsoever unless you are racing.
I can tell you going from 42cm to 38 allowed me to ride without my hands going numb for the first time. I didn’t think it would work, but I tried it only because I had a cheep pair of bars the right size. I used aero bars for years before saw a bike fit video that suggested it.
Bro, you literally threaded two cables... Mechanical groupsets have 4! If you tried doing that video you wouldn't have made it to that group ride....NEXT WEEK 😂
As I bike mechanic I do not hate this at all, I do however hate customer complaining when I charge them 2 hours of work.
Same. They think if they buy the parts we just throw em on for free.
If it's taking you that long to do a internal routing job time to find a new mechanic if I'm honest.
@@mrbuddha5263 well for a integrated handlebar with bleeding and setting up the gears, two hours is perfectly normal. For a stem, handlebar and electronic shifting it will be faster.
@@basvanleeuwen4502 okay, I thought you were just refering to a handlebar swap with an internal reroute.
You can still use the blue bike stand. Just lower it all the way down until at least the front wheel touches the ground.
🤦♂️
😂
Have you ever heard of a long zip tie to keep your forks from falling..
I have always done my own minor adjustments, but earlier this year went full stupid and build my own TT bike from a bare frame and a mountain of parts. Went with SRAM Red AXS and couldn’t be happier. Everything went really smoothly, including routing cables in the frame and inside the cockpit and stem. I spent basically an entire afternoon on it, taking my time to properly lube and torque everything to spec, and it was a rideable bike by the end of the day. The first outdoor ride on this bike was actually my first race of the year! Absolute rocketship.
Congratulations on the bar swap and thank you from both myself and my local bike shop/mechanic for the reinforcement that there are just some things that I am very happy to pay for!
haha, happy to help!
“Whoah! Those are a lot lighter!” 37 grams is the weight of about one big swig of water from your bottle
Or a good snot rocket
@@bonbonflippers4298 ...I dont know if I should be disgusted or impressed. I'm leaning toward impressed 😂
Why would you pay for a bike fit and not listen to what the fitter tells you 🤦
For real, I can't afford a bike fit and to see someone who has done it, not listening to what the person says is unbearable
Then they wonder why they have fit issues…
Don't forget, correct fit equals going faster
@@ClemBtjust because you get a fit doesn’t mean it’s 100 percent perfect. It depends on that fitter style, and how they think it’s correct. Every fit you will get done will probably be different. A fit is more a point of reference, advice. But doesn’t mean it needs to be followed to a T
😂 a very good point! I technically fit on the 120, the 110 is just a little more optimal. It’s kinda like buying an aero bike when you will be more comfortable on an endurance bike I guess… I just let my vanity win 😜
Great video, but I Love that I don't have to set up or replace integrated cockpits, tubeless wheels, or bleed hydrologic disc brakes. I'm good taking it to the shop, I don't need any reason to hate my bike, lol
for me, being able to fix my own bike makes me "bond" with my bike more, i guess
@@SomeoneKillMesmhThe more you know about your bike, inside and out, the better. That way, you'll know what fits & work and what doesn't.
@@sbccbc7471 true, very true
Cable sheathing and brake hoses can abrade against the steerer tube over time with full concealment . Designers , solve that new problem .
I love what Rose does with their one piece cockpit on their XLITE models. It technically has external cables so you can take the cockpit off without having to bleed your brakes, but they put a channel on the bottom side where you can essentially clip in the cables so they look completely hidden away as long as you don't get on your knees and look at the underside of your cockpit.
The problem is when you have to pass through gear cables as well. With electronic gears it's quite easy.
Great video, comedy relief was primo!! 😂 I’m thinking of attempting this with a rim brake bike, and feeding the cables looks like a train wreck. I’m on the hunt for an aero bar combo that has open channels (grooves), instead of having to feed it, and i found a couple but it wasn’t easy. It’s not that I can’t feed them, but just would rather have access to do simple repairs without taking the whole dam thing apart, and running stuff rim brake cables through the bar looks like it would be even worse, or impossible. I swore I would never use an aero bar, but it does look cleaner, and the flats on top seem way more comfortable on my hands and wrists than a round bar, after trying them. I’m impressed that you were able to get this done, 7 hours aside, who cares, you still did it and didn’t have to take it to a shop to finish it. Looks great by the way, hope your bar and stem sizing is how you like it, or changing it is a new set of money and repair work hours 😅cheaper and easier to start doing Yoga and make the bike fit by being more flexible 😊
Funny I much prefer the look of external cables - and shorter stems.
“Then I will have enough length… to satisfy her needs.” I almost spit out my coffee 😂😂😂
The plastic tubes that are in the bars when you purchased the bars are used to pull the brake cables through. Can also pull the steel cable from cable routing kit because it fits within plastic tube. Saw the plastic tube in the bars but then it was gone when it was time to route the cables.
The head mechanic at Ritte warned me that wouldn’t actually help with the hydraulic hoses. Great for cables tho. Just didn’t include it in the video cause it was already a bit long 😜
@@MitchBoyer Have a cable route kit that included steel cable and barb fitting to press into hydraulic cable. Just run steel cable through plastic tube then pull plastic tube attach barb fitting to steel cable and press into hydraulic cable. Then pull steel cable which pulls hydraulic cable through bars. Every carbon bar and frame I have purchased uses the plastic tubes which makes the job of pulling cables a 2 minute job.
Great point about SRAM documentation! Their support website is super good and very easy to follow. Definitely don't regret moving away from Shimano.
Awesome job! in your case, you really didn't have to cut the cables. Just undo the "stealthamjig" using the right torx tool, pull out the nut and you're golden.
@ 4:52 the red olive actually screws off (its reverse-threaded i think). So no need to cut the hose to get that nut off next time. I’d say Sram is genius for that removeable olive! Just put a fresh new one after you’re done and its good.
I just yank the tube out with a pointed plier and trim off the crushed section. Usually takes me less than an hour to install as an amateur do it yourself bike maintenance. If you find sram easy, bleeding and centering on a shimano is even easier. But my OCD will take me 6hours of adjusting the levers and bartapes to be absolutely symmetrical (to the extend of measuring the overlap gap of each loops of the wrap to be exact lol)
I am so happy with my heavy selfmodified fixiebike. I don't have any of your problems, because I simply don't care. Believe it or not, I still have fun riding it.
The other thing you can do with those tube-end fittings is tie a bit of string or monofilament to them *before* you take the tube out of whatever it's threaded through. Obviously, the string needs to be longer than the full length of the integrated tube route, so that it extends beyond the inlet & outlet. But once you've done that, the next time that particular piece (handlebar, downtube, fork tube, whatever) needs to be threaded with a cable or hydraulic line, you already have a "pilot string" to pull a heavier pilot tube or string for the final install. The magnetic tools are nice, but sometimes a pilot string works better...and if you're selling a take-off, your customer will appreciate you as well.
life pro tip: use a small allen key vs one of those mini screw drivers, broke about 4 of those mini screw drivers last bars I replaced. Keep the videos coming!
I paid a bike mechanic on both of my integrated cable bikes. Neither seemed to complain. Both are something I really don’t expect to touch and I assume even a headset service can be done without having to rerun anything.
That you were able to do it is a good sign - def not easy, but doable.
I heard wireless brakes with reservoirs at the calipers are coming. That would be amazing / a little scary.
You are living the life I want to live in my next life. I love what you get to do and I love your videos. Truly a joy to watch.
As my current master mechanic says "Aero does not mean sh*t when I have to set up this integrated bulls*t and they're just doing weekend rides for fun". He's kind of right though, in where the consumer pays a premium, but most don't receive the benefits.
My fancy carbon steerer tube cutting guide is two car radiator hose clamps. I freely admit being a bicycle mechanic caveman.
I delbrately chose all 3 of my bikes with semi integrated cabling only for exactly this reason. I want to do my own mech work and not have it take hours, and cost a fortune with proprietary parts.
When you lost the mark, why didn't you just put the new bar on and mark it (with a scribe) then take it off again?
That would’ve been nice to do, but the hoses would be in the way (they need to be routed through the bars in order to be flush with the spacers beneath) :/
SRAM documentation is awesome. The videos are great as well.
When figuring out how much you cut off the steerer by measuring the bit you cut off, you have to add the width of the blade. You were a lot closer to 4mm than you think.
Was ordering integrated handlebar in January. Cancelled as found out I can't do some simple adjustments easy with stem and separate bar. And most I got were carbon... went with aluminium and titanium. 2 road bars. I get gifted a bike with an integrated cockpit , I always change for simple bars..😂
I can respect that! Ultimately it comes down to what’s important to you. Looks, functionality, aero, etc. I will say, if I can survive swapping integrated handlebars, anyone can! 😂
Great work! What were the integrated bars you put on...? I mean - what brand? Thank & keep up the good content!
As a mechanic I like integrated hoses. BUT that depends on the brand, some brands do a good job and some are a pain (factor/black inc come to mind)
Pro tip: use a small strap or strip of velcro between your frame triangle and the arm of your fork to hold your fork up into the headset when taking the stem off 🫡
Good tip, thank you!
When I did that, I remember I used a tall stool to prop the fork with a piece of cloth between the dropouts and the stool.
ur bike frame need to support fully integrated handlebar? , I still dont get where is the limitation on for example a semi integrated handlebar leaving 2 cables externally, is it the space in the frame?
Just the fact alone that instead of mineral oil, SRAM uses DOT fluid makes me avoid the groupset entirely. (not that i could ever afford it in the first place). Appreciate the fact that they have thorough maintenance vids though.
Lucky that you had electronic shifting :D With additional cables that would have been a lot worse to set up
When I moved from 42cm bars to 38cm, my knees hit the bar ends on steep climbs. Fortunately I was able to flare them with a car jack( they’re $15 alloy bars). Good thing to know before you buy carbon bars.
You don't have to cut off old barbs and olives in order to fit them through the cockpit. You have to cur them off and replace them because they're a compression fittings and they are not reusable.
100% agree that SRAM has a much better home mechanic dataset than Shimano. I have both SRAM and Shimano setups, and it's always a PITA to find the appropriate Shimano instructions. Freetoride UA-cam, great help.
I've dealt with both just fine, but SRAM's manuals are indeed pretty detailed, the colour-coding definitely helped.
Is the griffith park ride every wednesday at 630am? Where does the group meet?
I've had the exact opposite experience. I bled my Shimano brakes for years, got my first SRAM groupset and after 5 tries I gave up and sent it to a mechanic.
Why dont they make the holes for brake hoses a little larger so the compression fitting does go through?
Right!? I would guess it has to do with maintaining the structural integrity/stiffness of the bars. This one was pretty decent, but some of the bars I’ve seen barely have room for the cables to squeeze through 😳
@@MitchBoyer WRONG! The olive is a compression fitting that deforms when tightened down and is not reusable.
@@MitchBoyer The most complex one I've installed is the Farsports F1 one-piece cockpit and is my most disliked too due to its inconsistent manufacturing quality. I've had to install this model on three different bikes. The cockpit is so non-compliant even my two-piece aluminium cockpit doesn't feel that bone-jarring and my cockpit is on a 6061 triple-butted aluminium frame rolling on 25 mm clinchers wrapped around a pair of aluminium 2008 Mavic Aksiums.
@@michaelnewman4302you can reuse them. If they don’t leak then they are fine. Just check after installation. Quick link on a bike chain is also not supposed to be reused. Do you throw those away too after opening them?
Haha it gets better. I used to build a full bike (groupset + internal hoses + bleeding) from around 1pm to 10pm. Now it takes me ~3 hours.
(not including a tubeless setup if it gives me problems. then add a full day on top lol)
Not something I fancy doing anytime soon! Whats the rear light you’re running Mitch??
The fact that it took an inexperienced handyman 7.5 hours to change an integrated cockpit where a regular cockpit would have been half an hour.
This is what’s wrong with the industry. To charge even half the time it took you at standard workshop rates is ridiculous for changing a handlebar
It gets worse - a bike with mechanical shifting and these screwball setups require (to use Campagnolo's term) "Maximum Smoothness" cables to shift worth a damn! $100 for ONE of these makes one start to think about electronic shifting next time - exactly what (just like with disc brakes) the planned-obsolescence marketing-mavens designed!
My stem/bar (not one piece) change is gonna put the hoses/cables UNDER the stem and bar tape instead of inside, so I only have to f--k around with this once! I HATE this s--t!
Great video mate! Despite not being a BMC, I still enjoyed it.
hi, what kind of handelbars are these please (brand/model)? they look really good
They're the Integrale Bar/Stem from OTHR
@@MitchBoyer thank you, they look really amazing. I found already their website. Considering buying these for my Van Rysel FCR :)
What is the name or part number of that "little piece" you installed (around the 5:36 mark)? Is that something that a bike shop would have? I'm guessing since you went to Ritte directly, they had that part on hand?
Yeah unfortunately I don’t think it’s available for consumers or even bike shops. I got it from the head mechanic at Ritte and he mentioned that they only give them to bike manufacturers. It was so helpful I really wish they sold it!
No thank you to intergrated handlebars, for myself it's not worth the effort and headaches, I hear other mechanics cursing all the time when working with intergrated handlebars, so to say I will have not plans to joining that party any time soon.
Get a pro style stand aka race day stand. It hold the fork in place.
great video. do you have a link for the part that you threaded onto the end of the hose?
I would if I could, but it’s not available for resale for consumers. I’m hoping SRAM start selling it one day 🤞
Hi, which tire are you using? Looks nice with the yellow color!
Vittoria Corsa Pros 🫡
@@MitchBoyer thanks
Its funny watching people do this for their first time. Now this is a standard procedure for 30% of bikes that come thru the shop.
On a cervelo S5 I don't really need a new cokpit, it's already the best one
I'm too scared to do it myself. Great job.
Can I ask the brand of your tail light? It's very nice and minimal
It’s the Knog Plus inside a custom mount by Carbon Works
Whats the name of the back light? Looks clean.
Knog Rear Plus light with a mount from CarbonWorks 🫡
@@MitchBoyer thank you kind sir.
I will never own a bike with fully integrated stem/bars and internal cable runs. Just no. You don't have to deal with all that stuff; you can stick with the classic external style, which looks -- classic -- and costs an almost imperceptible amount of watts in aerodynamic drag. BTW, you can easily adjust the Park stand to work with the front wheel on the floor.
Damn wireless groupset. That looked so easy. Imagine doing that with an older campy or Di2.
I’m very glad there were no more cables to squeeze through the handlebars
Overriding the bike fitters advice, for looks? Not sure that’s a good idea.. not sure a 120 stem looks better than a 110, or if anyone else could tell the difference? The 110 would have been lighter too
the most thing i need with integrated cables is: hope
I also went to no cables, but by getting a fixed brakeless bike
This is why most of the bike mechanics don’t like to work with internal cables. Cuz it pain in the ass when come to headsets bearings change and more etc.
2:58 Or just lower the mech stand so the bike is standing on the floor.
Amazing efforts!
I dont hate them. I use a park tool cable router and magnet. Never had an issue. 😂 You made that look so complicated.
You’re a better mechanic than me!
@@MitchBoyer I got over 20 years in the shops my friend! Muscle memory! Doesn't mean I know everything. True story. When I was going to buy my current bike, I took your BMC video into consideration. I went with a Roadmachine 01 Five and built it to a three. You were right man. Great bike. Thanks for the advice! Maybe some day we will cross paths and do a challenge together 😁
Please use a torque wrench on carbon parts 🙏🏻
Wow... name of the tail light please? 😊
Knog Plus Rear light with a 3d printed mount by CarbonWorks
@@MitchBoyer thank you 😊
what and where to get this rear light mount
It's a 3D Printed mount from CarbonWorks. The light is the Knog Rear Plus light
Mitch going for the longer stem just because of the looks is all of us😂😂
🫡🫡
@@MitchBoyer Why bother with the bike fit?
@@andarenbici there’s a lot more to the bike fit than stem length! Carla helped me find a range of positions that work well for me depending on the context of the ride. Ranging from more aero to relaxed to endurance for gravel rides. The longer stem is more aggressive but still within my bike fit range.
Lesson #1: never start a big bike change the evening before something important 😂
or… always start the night before and stress yourself out… oh wait nevermind 😂
This is a current theme. It makes for great suspense. I like
yup, i prefer to run shimano for compatibility but installation is not a contest. sram does it so much better than shimano. and shimano already improved compared to previous gen that was probably designed by a macaque
Thank you I enjoyed that video
don't hate them, just be mindful, it have to charge longer hours because it does take longer to work on
The stem on my bike’s 80mm. I imagine we’ll never ride together 😂
Just use the park tool thingy.
Try doing it with Di2 cables in routed as well 🤦♂️ 🤬🤯🤬🤯
Love sram's two syringe method compared to shimano. So much cleaner and faster.
This was entertaining even without the puppy b-roll but i still miss it 🐶🐶😝😘
Next video there will be extra puppy b-roll I promise 🫡
Nice video. But better don't even try to calculate how much you would have to ride your bike for your time savings on the road to make up for the extra time setting it up... ;-)
If bike mechanics don’t like dealing with integrated cables, they probably aren’t charging enough for that type of service. As a customer, I’m happy to pay what a service is worth but I really don’t want to hear any complaints. If you don’t like doing the work, keep it to yourself.
Are you sure you were wearing enough safety equipment for cutting that steerer ?
My hazmat suit hasn’t arrived in the mail yet, so I had to make do with what I had
@@MitchBoyerIt cheaper to teach your wife or kids to do it.
when did Sebastian Vettel start a UA-cam Channel?
Stick to bar and stem cheaper
If the weight of bars is in grams then those are so heavy 😂
It is in grams, with a single decimal point.
You don't have to cut off the thingamajig, you can unscrew them...
I might be wrong, but I think once it's been used it becomes compressed on the hose and no longer unscrews. Or maybe my arms have atrophied so much from cycling I'm just very weak 😂
my stuff is not integrated. maybe my day will come - i just got my first bike about a year and ahalf ago and i have no desire to upgrade yet. your experience is my nightmare - on far too many occasions have i tried to DIY only to FEU (let the reader understand). This is why i don't feel bad paying ppl money to do things for me - ever.
18s into the video, and you broke a promise. 🤣
oops 😅
Try again with old school mechanical shifter and you know why mechanics hate them to the core.
Airplanes have cockpits, bicycles do not.
Look up the definition of cockpit.
I am here just to say that thanks to the last video promoting a huge give away my inbox is daily full of spam: Thank you 😂
Sooo how much $$ was spent in addition to hours? 90 grams for how much money? I get that's it for content on YT and all, but I cannot imagine all that making any significant difference whatsoever unless you are racing.
lol nothing about this hobby makes financial sense. It’s just for fun 🫡
I can tell you going from 42cm to 38 allowed me to ride without my hands going numb for the first time. I didn’t think it would work, but I tried it only because I had a cheep pair of bars the right size. I used aero bars for years before saw a bike fit video that suggested it.
Bro, you literally threaded two cables... Mechanical groupsets have 4! If you tried doing that video you wouldn't have made it to that group ride....NEXT WEEK 😂
Geezuz man the roads you ride on are atrocious ! Good job with the bars though 👍
32mm tires are almost a requirement around here 😂
@@MitchBoyer Im running 25x700 on Zipp 404 Fire crest rims 90/95 psi.
I use My gravel for everything else 50mm🙂
Alot lighter...38gr. I'm sure you can feel that on the bike! :)))
😂
Me when i built my AlieExp bike😭😭😭. I’m hoping my integrated routing cable tool will help me next time(doub it) 😆🤣😅✌️✌️✌️
My aliexp cable routing tool worked really well to pass gear and brake cable (inner) through an integrated bar. Then sliding the outer cables over it.
Why did you not just lower the stand so that it was holding the bike while it was sitting on the ground? 🤣
Would've been a good idea!
I'm worried about what's coming 😨
Is it just me or is he looking more and more like sebastian vettel
yeah that sucks. i am happy i like the look of cables and i even like the feel on mechanical brakes.
90 grams for few hundrets dollars? I can took a sh!t and I will be lighter than this... (JK) :D Good work!
Next video he will replace his skeleton with carbon. Saving 1 kg.