You've missed a trick: If you have internally routed cables and no special tools, leave the old cable housing in place and remove the old cable. Put the new cable through the old housing. Then remove the old housing while holding the new cable in place. Finally, you can use the new cable to guide the new housing through the frame.
Good trick (I use it often) but only works if you have cables twice the length of the housings. Could be problematic with full housing fully internal system. Explanation: the cable serves as a guide so it has to be from one end to the other of the frame but you also have to fit the entire new housing before inserting it in the frame or you won't be able to hold the cable in place while inserting the housing => You need a cable roughly longer than two time the housing which may not work if you have a fully internal housing system that often require more than 1m50-1m80 (you rarely see 4m+ cables)
Here's a hack: Use a picture hanging nail to 'connect' old and new outer housing. Just cut the head off of the nail. The barbs do a great job of holding the housings together while you push/pull the new housing through the frame
I liked Doddy's honesty by revealing you don't really need the ParkTools IR-1.2 Internal cable routing kit. What i usually do is use an old inner cable to hold the old and new outer cable together and just push the new outer cable in instead of pulling the old outer cable out. You can even use a bit of scotch tape to keep both the old and new outer cables together, but usually just having the inner cable going through both is enough. About the 'cable stretching': The cable can in fact stretch, if you performed your maintenance on a really cold environment and ride in a hot environment. So, that barrel adjuster comes in handy especially when the temperature varies wildly in the environments where you ride.
I'm happy to see you are a very honest man and your all reviews about cycles are pretty straightforward and full of truth 😇 Hope to get this cycle very Soon for my cycling tours in Switzerland
Another hack is to use a light suspension grease (I use Slickoleum), and coat the inner shift cable with it very lightly, before inserting it into the housing. Zero friction, and protects it if water gets in the housing. Works better than using chain lube and lasts longer. I used to use Triflow in the outer housing, but the Slickoleum works much better.
Already missed Doddys Reactor ST. Had to change the brake housing on my Reactor recently. I would have needed this video🥲. Thx for the effort u guys put into your Videos.❤
You can use a short piece of housing and cable puller (if you have one) to seat the housing ends before you tighten down the pinch bolt. Helps a lot to eliminate the step of "seating" the ferruls before you lock down the pinch bolt and compromise the cable.
You should be stretching the cables anyway which will make sure the ferrules are fully seated, I just push the ferrules on with my hand and then push it against the workbench. No need to complicate things.
If the ends of the cable housing are outside the frame, how is moisture prevented from getting in? Isn’t this then the same as external cables? Aren’t internal cables ONLY for looks? The PITA factor and tool requirements for internal routing make this system a scourge on our sport! The other bad idea dreamed up by the marketing departments is any press fit BB system. Just my humble opinion… great video as always!
I resonantly did this on a friends Trek super caliper it has internal cable but not for the outer housing only the inner cable with stoppers in the frame. I pulled the inner cable out before I realized, it was a nightmare to put a new cable though. I managed to tread a old inner cable frame the bottom and with some help fishing it out. After treading the inner cable though the shifter I gaffa taped it to the old cable and pulled it though. Ifyou have this bike check before starting I hope it helps someone.
Tie a string to the cable and drop it into the frame. Hold vacuum cleaner nozzle to outlet and the string is sucked through, then pull cable through… no expensive tool needed
Good success cutting outers with a metal blade(very thin) on an angle grinder. All cable cutters leave a sh*tty ragged end- on Velotech Gold was advised to file the end flat if possible. Internal routing is a pain in the a*se really...My KTM is due for some TLC soon and most likely this will involve dropping the motor from it...Oh and just beware the screw on port entry things on frames, some are so badly designed they have a threaded plate which falls off the screw/bolt and into the frame!!
how the heck does one replace ebike wiring, from the display to the motor?? unlike this cable, they have connectors and other fat things at the end!! insane.
Pull the old cable, thread a new cable through the old housing, it needs to be 2x as long as the housing which they usually are. Then pull the old housing. Thread the new housing onto the new cable and push it through, it follows the cable. Takes seconds and uses no gear at all.
That sometimes works; however, they're more than likely to come apart whilst you pull the cable through. It's better to use a dedicated cable routing kit. 👍
@@michaelbondad3912 i know just giving him a hard time. Some people got nothing better to do than set there and pick on every mistake they come across, you know like there perfect usually there the worst because there always pointing there finger at someone else,
@@gmbntech by the way. Clean look can be good for roadies. But true moutain bike have to be easy to service in any place in winter when I ride in gloves in -15 degrees. So why I love my cheap enduro bike. It is almost as good when I ride but it is easy to work with it. And costs 8k. Not 19k. With the same components. Almost only difference is frame.
You've missed a trick: If you have internally routed cables and no special tools, leave the old cable housing in place and remove the old cable. Put the new cable through the old housing. Then remove the old housing while holding the new cable in place. Finally, you can use the new cable to guide the new housing through the frame.
Good trick (I use it often) but only works if you have cables twice the length of the housings. Could be problematic with full housing fully internal system.
Explanation:
the cable serves as a guide so it has to be from one end to the other of the frame
but
you also have to fit the entire new housing before inserting it in the frame or you won't be able to hold the cable in place while inserting the housing
=> You need a cable roughly longer than two time the housing which may not work if you have a fully internal housing system that often require more than 1m50-1m80 (you rarely see 4m+ cables)
Here's a hack: Use a picture hanging nail to 'connect' old and new outer housing. Just cut the head off of the nail. The barbs do a great job of holding the housings together while you push/pull the new housing through the frame
I liked Doddy's honesty by revealing you don't really need the ParkTools IR-1.2 Internal cable routing kit. What i usually do is use an old inner cable to hold the old and new outer cable together and just push the new outer cable in instead of pulling the old outer cable out. You can even use a bit of scotch tape to keep both the old and new outer cables together, but usually just having the inner cable going through both is enough.
About the 'cable stretching': The cable can in fact stretch, if you performed your maintenance on a really cold environment and ride in a hot environment. So, that barrel adjuster comes in handy especially when the temperature varies wildly in the environments where you ride.
I'm happy to see you are a very honest man and your all reviews about cycles are pretty straightforward and full of truth 😇 Hope to get this cycle very Soon for my cycling tours in Switzerland
Another hack is to use a light suspension grease (I use Slickoleum), and coat the inner shift cable with it very lightly, before inserting it into the housing. Zero friction, and protects it if water gets in the housing. Works better than using chain lube and lasts longer. I used to use Triflow in the outer housing, but the Slickoleum works much better.
Already missed Doddys Reactor ST. Had to change the brake housing on my Reactor recently. I would have needed this video🥲. Thx for the effort u guys put into your Videos.❤
Great timing for this video as im build my 2022 chameleon frame today.
Nice one, Michael! We bet it looks sick! When it's built, feel free to send it to our uploader! 👍
Great video with simple explanations.
You can use a short piece of housing and cable puller (if you have one) to seat the housing ends before you tighten down the pinch bolt. Helps a lot to eliminate the step of "seating" the ferruls before you lock down the pinch bolt and compromise the cable.
You should be stretching the cables anyway which will make sure the ferrules are fully seated, I just push the ferrules on with my hand and then push it against the workbench. No need to complicate things.
If the ends of the cable housing are outside the frame, how is moisture prevented from getting in? Isn’t this then the same as external cables? Aren’t internal cables ONLY for looks?
The PITA factor and tool requirements for internal routing make this system a scourge on our sport!
The other bad idea dreamed up by the marketing departments is any press fit BB system.
Just my humble opinion… great video as always!
Been a long time since a saw thumb shifter.
When replacing the shifter cable, the shifter should be in the highest gear. Not the lowest.
I resonantly did this on a friends Trek super caliper it has internal cable but not for the outer housing only the inner cable with stoppers in the frame. I pulled the inner cable out before I realized, it was a nightmare to put a new cable though. I managed to tread a old inner cable frame the bottom and with some help fishing it out. After treading the inner cable though the shifter I gaffa taped it to the old cable and pulled it though. Ifyou have this bike check before starting I hope it helps someone.
Can you replace the inner cable only? I don't want to replace the housing from inside the frame
You sure can! Nice and simple 👌
If only I knew about indexing in my last ride 😂 it would have lasted longer thanks doddy
Thank you.
Very helpful. 👍
Tie a string to the cable and drop it into the frame. Hold vacuum cleaner nozzle to outlet and the string is sucked through, then pull cable through… no expensive tool needed
How do you tie a string to a cable?
@@adamcairns8732 maybe you can glean from this but I did it and worked great - ua-cam.com/video/nA8SPlLaUgA/v-deo.html
@@adamcairns8732 tape it on
Good success cutting outers with a metal blade(very thin) on an angle grinder. All cable cutters leave a sh*tty ragged end- on Velotech Gold was advised to file the end flat if possible. Internal routing is a pain in the a*se really...My KTM is due for some TLC soon and most likely this will involve dropping the motor from it...Oh and just beware the screw on port entry things on frames, some are so badly designed they have a threaded plate which falls off the screw/bolt and into the frame!!
How do I know the length of my cable if I don’t have anything to reference?
how the heck does one replace ebike wiring, from the display to the motor?? unlike this cable, they have connectors and other fat things at the end!! insane.
Pull the old cable, thread a new cable through the old housing, it needs to be 2x as long as the housing which they usually are. Then pull the old housing. Thread the new housing onto the new cable and push it through, it follows the cable. Takes seconds and uses no gear at all.
Or just tape the new cable to the old one before you pull it out.
Tape cables together and pull? Have you actually successfully done that?
That sometimes works; however, they're more than likely to come apart whilst you pull the cable through. It's better to use a dedicated cable routing kit. 👍
it is better to lubricate through a needle because dust and dirt will stick to the edge of the shirt
This video is outdated, nowdays cales are routed through headset. I am confused.
Not on most mountain bikes. And in my opinion they shouldn't be. If you need a tutorial for that check a road bike specific one.
Road bikes or super bikes have this. Not most mtb
@@michaelbondad3912 most new bikes by big manufacturers. even commencal did it with the tempo. COMMENCAL!!! :(
This man honestly sounds like gordan Ramsay to me
Good to no 🤘
🤘
You don't root the cable you route it... Rooting cable sounds silly ...lol, 😀
By goly gee I'll root it if i dam well wat to MATE
Different ways to say things man. Ever heard someone from cali talk vs texas or Louisiana? You know where english came from right? England.
@@michaelbondad3912 i know just giving him a hard time.
Some people got nothing better to do than set there and pick on every mistake they come across, you know like there perfect usually there the worst because there always pointing there finger at someone else,
@@Mavrik-60 Yankees eh? they should take a good look at themselves in the meeeeeror (That's "Mirror" pronounced in American lol)
Facts! 😂 Thanks Steven!
Sheeesh
For me internal routing is one of most idiotic and annoying things in bikes. F... it
Internal routing makes a bike look much cleaner, but it can be a bit fiddly to set up. 😅
@@gmbntech by the way. Clean look can be good for roadies. But true moutain bike have to be easy to service in any place in winter when I ride in gloves in -15 degrees. So why I love my cheap enduro bike. It is almost as good when I ride but it is easy to work with it. And costs 8k. Not 19k. With the same components. Almost only difference is frame.
First like and comment😇
Uhm...... okay.... Cool
🥇🤘
Wow what did the papers say?
@@Adam-vm8kp read the papers again to know more.....
@@Adam-vm8kp lol. Right