I was one of the first guy to buy it a little over a year ago. 811H 42kw is highly recommended. I generally use 0.2 copper and 0.15 nickel coated steel. Works great.
Curious.... is strength the reason for nickel coated steel in packs? I have a few 21700 based Milwaukee packs with bad cells that I am rebuilding with Molicells and they appear to have steel based strips. Thanks Richard
@@1bottlefed in my case the nickel-coated steel is just used to hold the copper down. Copper is a better conductor but doesn't stick very well unless you have a very expensive machine. Mine can weld copper directly but the steel is just an extra layer of redundancy. Basically it's all about current flow. If you're still is able to flow enough current then it's fine to use. I use copper.becsuse I'm pushong 400+ amps and the copper helps keep thing cool.
@@vesc007 I have been building copper for about 3 years and the only one to have an issue was one that sat in an inch of water because the owner left it in the rain. Most my batteries are like you see with the FR4 in shrink wrapping with silicone to seal it. Then are then placed in 3mm TIG welded aluminum boxes.
Thanks for the video, just ordered one today. Been thinking about upgrading my kweld for a while, but now I've got a build where I'll need to use 0.3 copper, so it's time!
You just bough a really nice welder. I have the Glitter 811H and also the Glitter 801H and they both are excellent welders. in my opinion much better than the kWeld and more convenience. Just a recommendation. Stick with the copper/nickel sandwich because will create a stronger bond to the cells.
Many thanks for the video. I have been wanting to purchase a decent spot welder but the only vids I have seen were either by glitter or others who were selling the product. Really great to see an in depth review from someone who actually paid their own money for it! Thanks Richard (AKA Bottlefed)....from my nitrous race car days ;-)
Very nice, I got the exact same 811 for 400€. Only one thing about copper, it oxydises so corrosion needs to be avoided. Perfect insulation is key. Conformal coating helps
Hey Copper only tarnishes with oxygen. It doesn't go further than that. So once installed and jointed surface corrosion really isn't important. Think copper water pipes, even Copper gutters on my house. They've been there over 50 years!
Nice ebike guy good job working with some real power now thats whats up love the videos too am a need a 72v 40a battery for my bike soon before they run me off the road lol
@@Joshuachess tell me about it I've been buying battery packs to strip but you never no the damage until you charge and build a battery from them some last a while why others don't but everyone I see gets them I found a site and it was 357 for 90 cells but they where grade A but don't trust them to be honest let me no if you find someone
Hey @E-bikeguy i am inspired by you and i am planning on building an ebike similar to yours i was to use the QS 205 but by bike's dropouts are 190mm is there anything i can do to make it fit? or do i have to forget about the QS205 and use a weaker motor with 190mm dropout? thanks in advance for your response
Hi! got myself a 811H and my copper welding pins are melted half-way just after 200welded cells, what am I doing wrong. Ni+cu 0,3 sandwitch to 21700cells. Its too powerfull spitting metal everywhere, ha-ha) tried 25ms setting - nice fat welds but spits metal everywhere - lower than 18-19 not welding throug more than 30 - burns holes instead of welding. figured out will need to buy more spare pins\\\ (glad they give one spare, and also i have one left from 801H spare) but, man, after 801H (which is also a nice welder) i'm getting 1-1,5mm FAT connection, try to pull it - it doesnt leave holes on copper sheet, it rips it and leave flakes of copper on cell terminal 0_0 good sht
Hey what is up my guy Ty for the answer the other day that is my first e-bike and I am building a big bomb but am at the point to built the battery 240 21700 Samsung 40T 20s12p 72v48ah 3500 whwith 35 amp continuous discharge and 70 amps peak but my big problème is I can't font a BMS higher then 380 continuous amp and if I'm not mistaken I want the BMS at the same amperage as the battery other it could cause plenty of trouble am I wrong idk I'm asking cause I am not a pro by any mean and I want to be informed the best I can I heard should better to have a little over the amperage over the battery so he tell me 500 amp would be great for you but cannot find the them thin nowhere can you help me plz
i have this but i downgraded the welding pen to sunkko 73b, i lost like 25% of the power i think. like to weld 0.2copper+0.10 pure nickel i have to go as high as 50. but with this downgrade of pen i can work better, one hand holding the plate the other hand with the pen. max copper i sandwiched was 0.3 at 60/65 with nice penetration. ps. i also use pedal.
"Not worry about nickel strip falling apart", if your nickel is falling apart you doing something wrong. And please use at least fishpaper between the P-Groups. Just for the saftey of your customers
I spent 800 on a duel pulse sunstone spot welder new it was like 3 grand and i dont think its as powerful as the glitter. Fuck. Anyone wanna buy a sunstone? Lol
I was one of the first guy to buy it a little over a year ago. 811H 42kw is highly recommended. I generally use 0.2 copper and 0.15 nickel coated steel. Works great.
Curious.... is strength the reason for nickel coated steel in packs? I have a few 21700 based Milwaukee packs with bad cells that I am rebuilding with Molicells and they appear to have steel based strips.
Thanks Richard
@@1bottlefed in my case the nickel-coated steel is just used to hold the copper down. Copper is a better conductor but doesn't stick very well unless you have a very expensive machine. Mine can weld copper directly but the steel is just an extra layer of redundancy.
Basically it's all about current flow. If you're still is able to flow enough current then it's fine to use. I use copper.becsuse I'm pushong 400+ amps and the copper helps keep thing cool.
@@ryanmerrill8879 what r ur thoughts on the corrosion of copper? how well do you seal the pack?
@@vesc007 I have been building copper for about 3 years and the only one to have an issue was one that sat in an inch of water because the owner left it in the rain. Most my batteries are like you see with the FR4 in shrink wrapping with silicone to seal it. Then are then placed in 3mm TIG welded aluminum boxes.
looks like the Rolls Royce of welder, wow 👍
@patcaza6166 it's awesome
Thanks for the video, just ordered one today. Been thinking about upgrading my kweld for a while, but now I've got a build where I'll need to use 0.3 copper, so it's time!
My whole Kweld setup was around $500, so I wouldn't consider that too crazy expensive.
I have a 801D with 75A electrodes like yours. Welds .2 copper and .1 plated nicek like a champ
Congratulations on your new welder your good to go now that's so awesome so happy for you buddy.
@garymertens2019 thank you! Yes it's a beast
Very interesting. I can amateur weld but not this kind of spot welding batteries. I can’t wait to see the next video.
You just bough a really nice welder. I have the Glitter 811H and also the Glitter 801H and they both are excellent welders. in my opinion much better than the kWeld and more convenience. Just a recommendation. Stick with the copper/nickel sandwich because will create a stronger bond to the cells.
@@DIY500AMP agreed💯💯💯
Many thanks for the video. I have been wanting to purchase a decent spot welder but the only vids I have seen were either by glitter or others who were selling the product.
Really great to see an in depth review from someone who actually paid their own money for it!
Thanks Richard (AKA Bottlefed)....from my nitrous race car days ;-)
@1bottlefed everything including all tax
Impressive upgrade! Thick is Great 👍🏼
Very nice, I got the exact same 811 for 400€. Only one thing about copper, it oxydises so corrosion needs to be avoided. Perfect insulation is key. Conformal coating helps
@nicod974 yes I definitely understand
good deal then, i only see around 521,71 Euro :S were did you get yours? or second hand maybe?
Hey Copper only tarnishes with oxygen. It doesn't go further than that. So once installed and jointed surface corrosion really isn't important. Think copper water pipes, even Copper gutters on my house. They've been there over 50 years!
@tomhanauer6919 thank you bro for clarification on that! Much appreciated
thanks
Just got the Awithz spot welder on amazon for 290, will see if it’s any good
@@jakegreenwald469 that was my first pick
Nice ebike guy good job working with some real power now thats whats up love the videos too am a need a 72v 40a battery for my bike soon before they run me off the road lol
Great review im going to order this now than the glitter 801a where do you get your cells from trying to find a decent site for cells
@simonbolton2364 I have a supplier that I get my cell directly no middle man
I had the same question Can't find them anywhere Trustworthy. I'mma try local vape store next, that's How desperate I'm getting lol
@@Joshuachess tell me about it I've been buying battery packs to strip but you never no the damage until you charge and build a battery from them some last a while why others don't but everyone I see gets them I found a site and it was 357 for 90 cells but they where grade A but don't trust them to be honest let me no if you find someone
Hey @E-bikeguy i am inspired by you and i am planning on building an ebike similar to yours
i was to use the QS 205 but by bike's dropouts are 190mm is there anything i can do to make it fit? or do i have to forget about the QS205 and use a weaker motor with 190mm dropout?
thanks in advance for your response
my guy pulls out the money bag full of tha grade A Cells hahah
@@1DumbSquirrel 🤣🤣🤣 yes sir!
Привет.
Он может варить алюминиевые ленты?
We going back to the future with this one Pop 😂
Lol😂💯💯
@@E-bikeguy 😭😆 yessir 🥾🔥🙏🏼💯
Hi! got myself a 811H and my copper welding pins are melted half-way just after 200welded cells, what am I doing wrong. Ni+cu 0,3 sandwitch to 21700cells. Its too powerfull spitting metal everywhere, ha-ha) tried 25ms setting - nice fat welds but spits metal everywhere - lower than 18-19 not welding throug more than 30 - burns holes instead of welding.
figured out will need to buy more spare pins\\\ (glad they give one spare, and also i have one left from 801H spare)
but, man, after 801H (which is also a nice welder) i'm getting 1-1,5mm FAT connection, try to pull it - it doesnt leave holes on copper sheet, it rips it and leave flakes of copper on cell terminal 0_0
good sht
I have a motor question. Can a 1500w 48v motor run a 72v controller after adding statorade can it run 5000w of power?
@LiPowerON yes the fluid will help with cooling
I was going to get into building my own batteries to save money. Then I saw how much it costs to properly build your own batteries 😅
❤
Wow. This is very cool indeed. Is this capacitor based? Congrats on the purchase. Hope you recoup the loss with new battery builds. All the best.
To my knowledge its Transformer based.
❤watch my video I present the 811a which is sufficient for soldering copper 🎉
Hey what is up my guy Ty for the answer the other day that is my first e-bike and I am building a big bomb but am at the point to built the battery 240 21700 Samsung 40T 20s12p 72v48ah 3500 whwith 35 amp continuous discharge and 70 amps peak but my big problème is I can't font a BMS higher then 380 continuous amp and if I'm not mistaken I want the BMS at the same amperage as the battery other it could cause plenty of trouble am I wrong idk I'm asking cause I am not a pro by any mean and I want to be informed the best I can I heard should better to have a little over the amperage over the battery so he tell me 500 amp would be great for you but cannot find the them thin nowhere can you help me plz
@XXHellBig125XX ok i understand it hard to get a bms over 200amps I believe they are special order
@@E-bikeguy ma battery is 240 cell Samsung 40 T 72v48ah 420continous amp 3456 what BMS do I need as a bms
i have this but i downgraded the welding pen to sunkko 73b, i lost like 25% of the power i think. like to weld 0.2copper+0.10 pure nickel i have to go as high as 50. but with this downgrade of pen i can work better, one hand holding the plate the other hand with the pen.
max copper i sandwiched was 0.3 at 60/65 with nice penetration.
ps. i also use pedal.
@@KismetMookz oh ok the pens do wear out quick
Top
COPPER 😳😲😳 lights gone flicker 🤣 wonder if it do silver too ,bet🤔
That welder is bad ass
@@E-bikeguy u deserve it Pop 💜
I would've thought the breadboard was through in through 🤔 ok so it's got stuff components inside.
Time to make some sandwiches with that .
hey shhh im tryina watch rick an morty dang hahah
"Not worry about nickel strip falling apart", if your nickel is falling apart you doing something wrong. And please use at least fishpaper between the P-Groups. Just for the saftey of your customers
nice im purchasing one as you speak lol thanks for the tip an hey can i borrow a dollar im broke now hahaha joking
Lol me too the struggle is real lol
💪🏽🧔🏼♀️🔥
I spent 800 on a duel pulse sunstone spot welder new it was like 3 grand and i dont think its as powerful as the glitter. Fuck. Anyone wanna buy a sunstone? Lol
Lol 💯
What did you say? I was watching Rick and Morty on your TV in the background.
ha you beat me to the comment lol
What did you say? I was watching Rick and Morty on your TV in the background.