When crimping the lugs to the cable simply crimp slightly until cable is secure enough to not move then open the crimper and rotate the lug one flat. Then continue to finish the crimp. When doing it this way you don't crush the lug between the jaws of the crimper. Removing any part of the lug weakens the crimped section possibly to the point of being able to pull the cable out. Using the correct jaws for the lug/cable combination is important.
For anyone wondering, fuses are separated into "family's" of speeds. The 300 amp fuse is fine for this application because it's not a fast blow fuse. You will generally only find fast blow fuses used in semiconductor protection as well as VFD's
@@Schematix Mine is arriving soon, I purchased it before seeing this, but after seeing this video I'm confident in what I'm getting. :) PRICEY, but any tool that will last won't be cheap. And high current welds are nothing you want to 3/4 ass, let alone half! I didn't get the cap kit, and I don't have one already... lets see how I do with my 100C lipo pack...
One mistake shown at 4:26 - the longer input cable is the positive and should be on the fuse with the shorter connected to the buss bar (Page 9 of the assembly guide). The longer electrode (It's not a ton longer) should also be on the positive side.
Can anyone explain why that matters? I noticed the same thing when putting it together - and just assumed that its a way to identify which of the input cables is the positive one if they looked the same...on mine I used black heat shrink to "label" the negative input cable....
Note that you can purchase crimp lugs with the same bolt size but for use with different thicknesses of cable. Get the lugs where the stripped wire completely fills the hole. Then you will get a tidy crimp without the burr. When buying the crimp lugs spend some time first finding which lugs fit which cable for the 3-4 sizes of cable you are likely to use.
I was really taken with the idea of this compact welder for replacing battery packs but as I watched the video it was clear that more and more kit was needed with the cost going up all the time. Not even the case was included. I waited to see if the unit plugs into the mains. It doesn't so more expense and inconvenience with an additional battery or capacitor power pack. I then abandoned the idea of making this unit and will look for something more convenient. The project is not the welder, it is replacing the cells in the battery packs.
@@MainelyElectrons Do the caps make a sound when charging up? Im debating on how I should power the welder because I find supercaps to be rly cool but on the other hand, I could save money by just finding a car battery or something. I could maybe do the supercaps with an atx psu but I heard those dont have proper current limiting which the caps need..? So itd require a dc current limiting dongle
@@sgas the capacitors don’t make a sound, but the power supply makes a ticking sound until it hits around 6 V on the super capacitors. Once it’s charged up to 6 V it’ll take around 50 W of power from the power supply for about 30 seconds anytime I do a spot weld. I think due to the extremely low resistance of the ultra capacitors the desktop bench power supply thinks it’s sensing a short and cuts power, but it must be applying power for long enough during that short pulse to charge the super capacitor a little.
@@sgas a car battery or something of the like would definitely be cheaper, but also a lot larger. One thing that I did not like about getting the ultra capacitor pack as part of the kit, was the length of the power cables to connect the capacitor pack to the main board. The cable is just barely long enough to reach, like we’re talking half inch of play. It’s definitely the most efficient length of cable possible.
Just a tip Never tin cables that goes into a screw terminal. The tin will crack and the connection will eventually get bad. And with high current there might be a fire hazard.
I shared this video with my Facebook Group, and they loved it. Very very very detailed video and one of the best explained how-tos on the kweld. I have a Kweld/kcaps with case coming and I know my video will not be as detailed. But I plan to add your video as a reference. Great Work!!!
Nice video. I have refurbished some Makita batteries also with crude method of soldering used laptop cells. I question the economics here: 10 new cells are around 40$. The welder and accessories are several hundred. Plus the time spend. I recently paid 50eur for brand new 4Ah Makita battery. No economical sense, but it's a nice hobby.
Certainly not if your goal is just to fix one battery pack. But its a tool you now have in your inventory for similar work. I spent quite a bit of time making up cables - and making up an enclosure. I'm retired and this is just a hobby - but I can see other folks making another call...my son-in-law will be happy to inherit this when I pass....🙂.
@@romanykemp9042 That is how I feel. I plan to give all my high quality tools to my sons (God willing). This way they won't have to buy them and will have excellent tools on hand.
@@salmanrashid6245check the price of makita batteries now, their 40v xgt battery pricing is over the moon, 5ah battery 210-250 euro, 4ah 150 - 200, and 8ah cheapest on discount when buying as part of the bundle is 330e, usually 370-390 yoyos. And while their 18v/36v isn't as expensive they still cost more than others while selling ancient battery tech. Good ole k weld may just save the day.
That "burr" as you call it on the lug is because you are using the wrong size lug for the cable, or the wrong size die on the crimper, or both. As Steakbrotchen said, tinning flex before putting into a screw terminal has been specifically "outlawed" for want of a better word, for well over 13 years. Ferrules are always the best solution. This is due to cold flow, a property where the solder compresses over time and the connection becomes loose.
Would love one of these. Unfortunately, by the time it makes it to my country, the price ends up being on par with the midrange Sunkko units. Out of the price range for a hobbyist.
Those MOSFETs are to the extreme! This product is well worth the cash outlay but I don't see a huge list of refits in my near future. Funny thing is that I have the same tired Makita L-Ion batts :)
Bought the kit like _ages_ ago and have only done some mild setup tests without actually using it for what I bought it for ( replacing the 18650s of my cordless hand blender ). Trying to figure out how those welding tabs are called to buy them somewhere I watched through some reviews of recently released China alternatives and boi ( Kratos™ ) am I glad I went with the K-Weld.
bought a 250 cca lawn battery for 60 bucks. 500 amp starter solenoid for ten bucks and a set of cables for ten bucks. does the same thing for 80 bucks. does just as good. the spot weld is controled by a diy foot pedal momentary switch......
hi. please could you tell me what type of filament to use in the 3d print as i don't have this facility . i need to ask a friend to print mor me.? but he said there are so many to pick from so ?? witch one is good and why. please
Hello! Can I use thicker wires for power kweld (35 square mm) and 16square mm for electrodes? Second question: What do you think about adding additional copper bus bars on thi other side of pcb?
Hey I just got the Kweld today and the first spot welds worked really nice. But like after the 10th I got a lot of sparking and the electrodes stick to the nickel. What could possibly be happening here?
When current passes through a wire, it creates a magnetic field. Normally the magnetic force isn't strong enough to be visually noticed. However in this application with hundreds of amps flow through the cable, the magnetic field is strong enough the cables repel/attract each other. Pretty crazy aye
167€ kweld+139€ for a capacitor pack + 70€ for a power supply +16€ for a software update tool and finally you have to swap the wires with thicker ones and print yourself a case. Doesn't seem a cheaper version than most of the AC stations out there.
@@Sombre____ It is a real welder, one that lasts for a long time not one for 3wks then thrown in the bin. Its many users will be a testament to that.I am about to buy one as I am fed up with the cheap ones I have bought. I knew about Kweld years ago but like many bought cheap and ended up paying more.
@@onlythetruthfull Seeing the price to buy all the component, it's better to buy a real one. That's what OP was saying and i'm completely agree with him. Don't fall for youtubers expensive diy.
@@gavinward5448 Yes. I have a floor mounted pedal operated spot welder in the shed rated to 10,200 Amps, I use a light to illuminate and if it’s it’s too close it gives a good jerk.
@@gavinward5448 ...Yes. The classic physics experiment is to connect a slack loop of thin wire to an appropriate battery or power supply. When current flows, the wire tries to form a circle to maximize the loop area. Multiple insulated wires carrying current in the SAME direction will crowd closer together.
Depends on what you are planning to do with it. I'm in the process of reviving 4 V-lock batteries (professional video-batteries) that come with 16 cells each and have been pronounced dead by the BMS inside. With all the welds I need to do and the price of a new battery, I consider it a good choice, especially concerning the reviews you find about the Chinese stuff that either isn't up to the job or breaks down fast after purchase. So for me, after experiments with a 200.000 uF capacitor unit, which were scary, unreliable and had a very hard time welding 0,3 mm strip, the Kweld seems like an excellent choice, especially when I read how many people just weld away with this thing with ease. Considering the price and the items you need besides the Kweld itself (the kit is already expensive at close to 200 euro's (including shipping, cables supplied loose) (yes... the price excludes VAT, not very nice to NOT mention that on the website) (EDIT: mentioning VAT was either added on the website or I (unlikely) missed it, it's there now) I can really relate that people aren't completely happy about spending close to 300 euro in total for this thing. But besides my V-lock batteries, I have had more occasions in the past where I was like 'If I could only spotweld...' so the Kweld will be used after I complete my v-lock batteries (this all said that I can circumvent the BMS-software in those things...) The guy that made this thing has his own UA-cam channel: ua-cam.com/channels/HdQgHkYvGcrX2Jh09NvXug.html
@@Schematix Thanks mate. I'll have a scratch around. Keep up the good work with the vids. I like your style; simple, easy to listen to and no hooting and hollaring.
I have the K weld kits Gray with the adjustment and all this you don't need power windows and air conditioning all you need is a pinto just a car to get you grocery shopping and back $150 is way out of line
I have both a Sequre SQ-SW2 and a kWeld, and the difference is night and day, i cannot get my Sequre to do a nickel-copper sandwich at max, and the kWeld does it effortlessly with 0.15mm nickel strip and 0.1mm copper at only 60J, and it's spotwelded so well that i literally bent the bottom of an old cell (and tore pieces out of the strips) when i ripped the strip off with pliers with the Sequre at 99ms (max) it couldnt even get it to really stick to the cell the kWeld can go to 500J so.. yeah i'm happy with my investment for sure I use a Gens-Ace bashing series 8000mAh 3S1P 100C LiPo, i get over 1200A per weld which is sorta on the meh side but more than good enough, i believe it may infact help as the less current pulse takes longer and gives more time to the material to heat up
Yes, two car batteries in parallel should do the trick. The key is getting close to that 1500A mark and keeping the leads to the power source as short as possible.
I notice on there website its 159,00 € which is $17439.12, They put a comma should it be a period, How much would it be for the spotwelder in USD dollars. Thank You!
Seems like 3D printer also required for casing... Is it... Its again extra cost, is that 3D printer can use any other purpose or only for this spot welder...? Lets say if I want Drive belt pulley can I use the same 3D printer or for that so we need another printer...? Please reply
hi Andrew , witch solution your advise for max amps , it could be , 12V TO 48V dc batt source , ??, infact need to spot more , thikness sheet metal from ,0.6mm to 1mm, thanks
So you gave 159 euros only for the pcb, the pods and the pedal and without the power source. I believe on this level of money you spent, there are way better alternatives. Regardless of all these, your presentation was perfect. I subscribe :P
Seems expensive to get one for rebuilding a battery pack. Is there a cheaper way? Do people rent them out? Or can I find someone to weld the batteries for me? Thanks
Keep checking the website. I wanted to order it as well when it was out, something like a week later, they had them in stock again. I guess it's a very popular item (with reason)
Excellent presentation ; as an old engineer who's hearing is starting to go, I appreciated your enunciation.
When crimping the lugs to the cable simply crimp slightly until cable is secure enough to not move then open the crimper and rotate the lug one flat. Then continue to finish the crimp. When doing it this way you don't crush the lug between the jaws of the crimper. Removing any part of the lug weakens the crimped section possibly to the point of being able to pull the cable out. Using the correct jaws for the lug/cable combination is important.
For anyone wondering, fuses are separated into "family's" of speeds. The 300 amp fuse is fine for this application because it's not a fast blow fuse. You will generally only find fast blow fuses used in semiconductor protection as well as VFD's
love it how the cables twitch with the high currents
Just put mine together. Thanks for the great video! I have problems with written directions. I would have been lost without you. Thanks again!
No problem ;)
@@Schematix Mine is arriving soon, I purchased it before seeing this, but after seeing this video I'm confident in what I'm getting. :) PRICEY, but any tool that will last won't be cheap. And high current welds are nothing you want to 3/4 ass, let alone half! I didn't get the cap kit, and I don't have one already... lets see how I do with my 100C lipo pack...
IT VERKS!!!!! :D
One mistake shown at 4:26 - the longer input cable is the positive and should be on the fuse with the shorter connected to the buss bar (Page 9 of the assembly guide). The longer electrode (It's not a ton longer) should also be on the positive side.
Can anyone explain why that matters? I noticed the same thing when putting it together - and just assumed that its a way to identify which of the input cables is the positive one if they looked the same...on mine I used black heat shrink to "label" the negative input cable....
Another excellent presentation... WELL DONE!!! 10/10
Weld done ?
A lovely explanation and review, and an impeccable fashion sense!
Very professionally made circuit ,
Good explaination, commentry
Note that you can purchase crimp lugs with the same bolt size but for use with different thicknesses of cable. Get the lugs where the stripped wire completely fills the hole. Then you will get a tidy crimp without the burr. When buying the crimp lugs spend some time first finding which lugs fit which cable for the 3-4 sizes of cable you are likely to use.
I was really taken with the idea of this compact welder for replacing battery packs but as I watched the video it was clear that more and more kit was needed with the cost going up all the time. Not even the case was included. I waited to see if the unit plugs into the mains. It doesn't so more expense and inconvenience with an additional battery or capacitor power pack. I then abandoned the idea of making this unit and will look for something more convenient. The project is not the welder, it is replacing the cells in the battery packs.
Just got my Kweld spot welder today and I'm so excited to get it set up!
what are you powering it with?
@@sgas I also picked up the ultra capacitor pack, works pretty well with my cheap Amazon purchased variable amp/volt benchtop power supply
@@MainelyElectrons Do the caps make a sound when charging up?
Im debating on how I should power the welder because I find supercaps to be rly cool but on the other hand, I could save money by just finding a car battery or something.
I could maybe do the supercaps with an atx psu but I heard those dont have proper current limiting which the caps need..? So itd require a dc current limiting dongle
@@sgas the capacitors don’t make a sound, but the power supply makes a ticking sound until it hits around 6 V on the super capacitors. Once it’s charged up to 6 V it’ll take around 50 W of power from the power supply for about 30 seconds anytime I do a spot weld. I think due to the extremely low resistance of the ultra capacitors the desktop bench power supply thinks it’s sensing a short and cuts power, but it must be applying power for long enough during that short pulse to charge the super capacitor a little.
@@sgas a car battery or something of the like would definitely be cheaper, but also a lot larger. One thing that I did not like about getting the ultra capacitor pack as part of the kit, was the length of the power cables to connect the capacitor pack to the main board. The cable is just barely long enough to reach, like we’re talking half inch of play. It’s definitely the most efficient length of cable possible.
Just a tip
Never tin cables that goes into a screw terminal. The tin will crack and the connection will eventually get bad.
And with high current there might be a fire hazard.
yes, i was used to tin everything, but i faced this problem many many times... a real pain...
You talking “tinning” as in tinning with solder? Or talking about the tin wire ferrules he crimped on..??
@@TylrVncnt I meant tinning wires
I shared this video with my Facebook Group, and they loved it. Very very very detailed video and one of the best explained how-tos on the kweld. I have a Kweld/kcaps with case coming and I know my video will not be as detailed. But I plan to add your video as a reference. Great Work!!!
Thanks for your encouragement! Glad you found it useful
Note: Never twist wires before crimping. They'll potetionally untwist and thus loosen up and slip out of the ferrule.
if they can untwist in a crimp, your crimping tool should go straight into the bin
@@drkastenbrot Best answer this century.
You are the master of construction. Watching your video feels really exciting! Thank you for your dedication.
big thanks from Paris
Awesome content. Neat. Underrated channel.
3:15 So all the current goes through the zinc plated washers, why?
I think it's tin plated copper, could be wrong
@@TheAviation101 Nope, that's standard zinc plated hardware..
@@JustinAlexanderBell You are right, it's zinc plated steel with the kit. You can buy silver plated copper and tin plated copper washers though
@@TheAviation101 Yeah, or he can assemble the stack correctly.
@@JustinAlexanderBell It is assembled correctly, kid.
well prepared, clear, comprehendible presentation with excellent video
I'm buying one. thanks for the review.
That's some excellent content and production values. That kit looks amazing.
Nice presentation, impressive.
i liked the welder to,nice results.
Nice video. I have refurbished some Makita batteries also with crude method of soldering used laptop cells. I question the economics here: 10 new cells are around 40$. The welder and accessories are several hundred. Plus the time spend. I recently paid 50eur for brand new 4Ah Makita battery. No economical sense, but it's a nice hobby.
Certainly not if your goal is just to fix one battery pack. But its a tool you now have in your inventory for similar work. I spent quite a bit of time making up cables - and making up an enclosure. I'm retired and this is just a hobby - but I can see other folks making another call...my son-in-law will be happy to inherit this when I pass....🙂.
@@romanykemp9042 That is how I feel. I plan to give all my high quality tools to my sons (God willing). This way they won't have to buy them and will have excellent tools on hand.
@@salmanrashid6245check the price of makita batteries now, their 40v xgt battery pricing is over the moon, 5ah battery 210-250 euro, 4ah 150 - 200, and 8ah cheapest on discount when buying as part of the bundle is 330e, usually 370-390 yoyos. And while their 18v/36v isn't as expensive they still cost more than others while selling ancient battery tech.
Good ole k weld may just save the day.
That "burr" as you call it on the lug is because you are using the wrong size lug for the cable, or the wrong size die on the crimper, or both. As Steakbrotchen said, tinning flex before putting into a screw terminal has been specifically "outlawed" for want of a better word, for well over 13 years. Ferrules are always the best solution. This is due to cold flow, a property where the solder compresses over time and the connection becomes loose.
Great video, thanks for making it.
That thing should be great for exploding small resistors with a bang.
Excellent item. I like it
Would love one of these. Unfortunately, by the time it makes it to my country, the price ends up being on par with the midrange Sunkko units. Out of the price range for a hobbyist.
Awesome video thanks mate 🙌
Great construction tutorial, thanks 🙏
Why did you change the ends on your cables?
Looks like a good product, I'm sold, I gotta get one now, I'm tired of soldering!
I just put mine together. Order extra crimp lugs and read everything carefully. :) It's awesome!
Those MOSFETs are to the extreme! This product is well worth the cash outlay but I don't see a huge list of refits in my near future. Funny thing is that I have the same tired Makita L-Ion batts :)
Bought the kit like _ages_ ago and have only done some mild setup tests without actually using it for what I bought it for ( replacing the 18650s of my cordless hand blender ).
Trying to figure out how those welding tabs are called to buy them somewhere I watched through some reviews of recently released China alternatives and boi ( Kratos™ ) am I glad I went with the K-Weld.
"mother on speed dial" hehehe Nice. "kkkeeeeeeyyyORNTACT!"
How I can preaches it my what's up number 7000367984
mother on speed dial, a condom and make sure you filter any oxygen supply through a cigarette
Lol Ave reference
Very cool bit of kit.... good demo 👍🏻
522Amps is not a mosfet rating but a body diode, realistically mosfet is rated at 240Amps with proper heatsinking...
hi guys need the complete set mounted of kweld , is the output current dc or ac , need dc current to weld and spot some aluminum , sheat parts ,thanks
EXCELLENT VIDEO !!!!!!~~~~~~
bought a 250 cca lawn battery for 60 bucks. 500 amp starter solenoid for ten bucks and a set of cables for ten bucks. does the same thing for 80 bucks. does just as good. the spot weld is controled by a diy foot pedal momentary switch......
could you maybe point me in the direction of how to do this ? thanks
@@1DumbSquirrel ua-cam.com/video/o4NaDMoEHxU/v-deo.html
What about the case? The kit does not include the case, is it assumed that we own a 3D printer?
hi. please could you tell me what type of filament to use in the 3d print as i don't have this facility . i need to ask a friend to print mor me.? but he said there are so many to pick from so ?? witch one is good and why. please
PLA should be more than adequate.
you can buy a laser cut case from their website as well
Hello! Can I use thicker wires for power kweld (35 square mm) and 16square mm for electrodes? Second question: What do you think about adding additional copper bus bars on thi other side of pcb?
Great video
Hey I just got the Kweld today and the first spot welds worked really nice. But like after the 10th I got a lot of sparking and the electrodes stick to the nickel. What could possibly be happening here?
11:43 man.. look at the cables. is that the reason they limiting the length of the cable?
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
So, can 0.3mm strip be welded with this?
11:47 why does weld cables jerk when you weld? does electrons have physical kinetic energy like water hose?
When current passes through a wire, it creates a magnetic field. Normally the magnetic force isn't strong enough to be visually noticed. However in this application with hundreds of amps flow through the cable, the magnetic field is strong enough the cables repel/attract each other. Pretty crazy aye
167€ kweld+139€ for a capacitor pack + 70€ for a power supply +16€ for a software update tool and finally you have to swap the wires with thicker ones and print yourself a case. Doesn't seem a cheaper version than most of the AC stations out there.
@Andrew_koala I guess a professional will buy a professional system and not a diy kit tho...
@@robinm.790 It depends. 2k euros for a professional system, low end. This is a viable option for starters.
Yeah, better to buy a real welding tool with everything integrated inside the box. Instead of this.
@@Sombre____ It is a real welder, one that lasts for a long time not one for 3wks then thrown in the bin. Its many users will be a testament to that.I am about to buy one as I am fed up with the cheap ones I have bought. I knew about Kweld years ago but like many bought cheap and ended up paying more.
@@onlythetruthfull Seeing the price to buy all the component, it's better to buy a real one. That's what OP was saying and i'm completely agree with him. Don't fall for youtubers expensive diy.
Very nice spot welder for batteries good video brother
@Andrew_koala lmfao
Man, see the cables shake when he hits the pedal? That's a lot of current flowing through those cables.
The electrodes look like 308 rounds.
I think that was just from his hands moving around
Tylr Vncnt 11:57 - no hand movement.
So is it a magnetic effect?
So is it a magnetic effect?
@@gavinward5448
Yes. I have a floor mounted pedal operated spot welder in the shed rated to 10,200 Amps, I use a light to illuminate and if it’s it’s too close it gives a good jerk.
@@gavinward5448 ...Yes. The classic physics experiment is to connect a slack loop of thin wire to an appropriate battery or power supply. When current flows, the wire tries to form a circle to maximize the loop area. Multiple insulated wires carrying current in the SAME direction will crowd closer together.
You can weld copper 0.2mm on the cells?
do you think 5000mah 130c battery is enought to build 120cell battery in one charge?
Would you recommend this as a good starter spot welder and or main spot welder?
Depends on what you are planning to do with it. I'm in the process of reviving 4 V-lock batteries (professional video-batteries) that come with 16 cells each and have been pronounced dead by the BMS inside. With all the welds I need to do and the price of a new battery, I consider it a good choice, especially concerning the reviews you find about the Chinese stuff that either isn't up to the job or breaks down fast after purchase.
So for me, after experiments with a 200.000 uF capacitor unit, which were scary, unreliable and had a very hard time welding 0,3 mm strip, the Kweld seems like an excellent choice, especially when I read how many people just weld away with this thing with ease.
Considering the price and the items you need besides the Kweld itself (the kit is already expensive at close to 200 euro's (including shipping, cables supplied loose) (yes... the price excludes VAT, not very nice to NOT mention that on the website) (EDIT: mentioning VAT was either added on the website or I (unlikely) missed it, it's there now) I can really relate that people aren't completely happy about spending close to 300 euro in total for this thing. But besides my V-lock batteries, I have had more occasions in the past where I was like 'If I could only spotweld...' so the Kweld will be used after I complete my v-lock batteries (this all said that I can circumvent the BMS-software in those things...)
The guy that made this thing has his own UA-cam channel: ua-cam.com/channels/HdQgHkYvGcrX2Jh09NvXug.html
Funny and informative. Subscribed.
excellent video...i have a question in the begining of the video you used a small wire cutter can you tell me who makes it please
Nice work
Did you need any support material when printing the top half of the case?
Yes it definitely needs support material for the lid
@@Schematix Did you put the support material in or did your 3D printer do it automatically?
@@harryhino2267 I use Cura software. You can choose from several options of support material. I chose "Touching buildplate"
@@Schematix Thanks mate. I'll have a scratch around. Keep up the good work with the vids. I like your style; simple, easy to listen to and no hooting and hollaring.
Why does the cable jerks when welding?
would two car batteries in paralel work for enough current ?
What do you reckon of all the aliexpress battery powered ones out there? Seems like all this diy stuff is now a thing of the past no?
11:56 why the fu the cables are bounce around when you set a weld spot? 😲
You think its possible to spot weld 0.2mm thick copper strip? Thank you for your time!
@andrew_koala2974 application? for high current battery packs, ofc
very useful video, can you share your caps concept it will be very useful if you can do that
I have the K weld kits Gray with the adjustment and all this you don't need power windows and air conditioning all you need is a pinto just a car to get you grocery shopping and back $150 is way out of line
I have both a Sequre SQ-SW2 and a kWeld, and the difference is night and day, i cannot get my Sequre to do a nickel-copper sandwich at max, and the kWeld does it effortlessly with 0.15mm nickel strip and 0.1mm copper at only 60J, and it's spotwelded so well that i literally bent the bottom of an old cell (and tore pieces out of the strips) when i ripped the strip off with pliers
with the Sequre at 99ms (max) it couldnt even get it to really stick to the cell
the kWeld can go to 500J so.. yeah i'm happy with my investment for sure
I use a Gens-Ace bashing series 8000mAh 3S1P 100C LiPo, i get over 1200A per weld which is sorta on the meh side but more than good enough, i believe it may infact help as the less current pulse takes longer and gives more time to the material to heat up
do they sell this in the USA? if so where?
nice review once my other 6x welders die kwelds next on my list
That is a super nice kit
so, you need power source as well?
Yes, two car batteries in parallel should do the trick. The key is getting close to that 1500A mark and keeping the leads to the power source as short as possible.
For Canadian people, is this kit still possible to get a hold of?
what do you think for 0,20-0.25mm nickel strips? which one is best kweld or sunkko 737DH?
One of Makita batteries has just gone faulty - I doubt it had done a third of the work yours did before their problems.
I notice on there website its 159,00 € which is $17439.12, They put a comma should it be a period, How much would it be for the spotwelder in USD dollars.
Thank You!
Seems like 3D printer also required for casing... Is it... Its again extra cost, is that 3D printer can use any other purpose or only for this spot welder...? Lets say if I want Drive belt pulley can I use the same 3D printer or for that so we need another printer...?
Please reply
hi Andrew , witch solution your advise for max amps , it could be , 12V TO 48V dc batt source , ??, infact need to spot more , thikness sheet metal from ,0.6mm to 1mm, thanks
The input cables are just ridiculously short and the power requirements are insane for a basic customer.
Does it work with thin aluminum like aluminum can?
I wouldn't do this, there is plastics and other materials in a can
I'm totall novice, how come you can hold both tips with bare fingers? what am I not seeing here.
Great video I was just getting worried before you used the ferrules, good Job. Cheers Steve
Excellent !
So you gave 159 euros only for the pcb, the pods and the pedal and without the power source. I believe on this level of money you spent, there are way better alternatives. Regardless of all these, your presentation was perfect. I subscribe :P
i followed each and every step as you outlined but it comes right back to cal and never lets me go past not sure what i did wrong
where can you get the housing?
Great Video!
Why can’t these devices be purchased completed and ready to use?
Seems expensive to get one for rebuilding a battery pack. Is there a cheaper way? Do people rent them out? Or can I find someone to weld the batteries for me? Thanks
Thanks for the video!
Nice spot welder nice price unfortunately can not welding 0.2mm copper and nickel strip at once.
I must ask, why doesn't it come assembled?
How I can buy the all goods
@Andrew_koala do they serve taliban bootytrap tinkerer?
I suggest one spot weld then Twist , That's my opinion
hello mister
cheers from athens greece
i want to open a ebike actory here have you a idea about a similar product that may look here in europe??
Would you like to review Sequre SQ-SW1 spot Welder?
great thanks brilliant product!!
Why look at the fet body diode current rating?
Could it weld 0.1mm copper strips?
thanks very much
malectrics do the 0.2mm purr nickel with ease and very good build quality
it always out of stock when I look it up
got a Sunkko and it worked out OK, sort of
would have much preferred a kWeld
Keep checking the website. I wanted to order it as well when it was out, something like a week later, they had them in stock again. I guess it's a very popular item (with reason)
why do they sell these already assembled?