I can't handle metal plating 3D prints
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- Опубліковано 4 тра 2023
- Also watch this video where I have a bit more success with electroplating • Electroplating at home
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Also watch this video where I have a bit more success with electroplating ua-cam.com/video/xOXaC-Jh70g/v-deo.html
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You need to use primer on the print before the cooper, most paints won’t adhere properly to 3D resin by itself
I use Tamiya fine surface primer
the surface area and distance of your nodes matter alot and link close to the power requirements. also the copper coating your using Ive personally seen alot of issues with. personally I would get a normal paint dilute with tiny bit of water then add powered copper to the mix then use that as your coating. Hope this helps, cant wait for more content
I've never 3D printed anything but I've been a glass artist for years and have done a bit of electroplating I have the same issues where I didn't want to stick to the glass I think the reaction happens but instead of it getting pulled onto the piece it gets pulled off the piece some of the products that I used I just had to use other crap but I found that I needed to primer it to make it stick and hold the object. Also cranking the power up or lower in it can have a huge effect
It really helps to move the part around, make sure the clip that is grabbing the part has the same or worst electrical conductivity as the paint and starting with a low current
Integza helping a German 3D Printing Channel. Cool
Mistakes I saw: No citric acid on the part? No part prep? No coffee filter on the positive copper plates?
you need a binding agent between the copper spray and the model ^^
First, you'll need a surface properly prepped to adhere to paint, so likely a high-grit sandpaper since it's a resin model.
Second, clean clean clean clean clean it within an inch of its life, never EVER touching it with bare hands because even the tiniest fingerprint can and often WILL come out in the electroplate.
Then you'll likely be best served with a good primer, there are even electroplating primers for just this purpose. Again making sure never to touch it bare handed.
According to his Impressum HEN3DRIK lives only ~130KM away from you. Maybe a opportunity to make a collaboration?
You can also use a graphite coating spray instead of copper. Graphite is a relatively good conductor, and I think its also is able to better stick to microabrasions present on the print itself
Peter Brown recently did a project here he painted laser cut wood with a conductive graphite paint before plating it. but helps that wood would hold the paint better in the first place.
thats what ive seen so far and what i suggested as well
Polish the surface after copper spray coating and instead of crocodile clips use copper wire... The current should be between 0.6 to 1 ampere to do it correctly...
Lightly sand the part or sandblast it, then primer, then conductive paint.
Use a primer designed for plastic adhesion.
Then apply multiple, thin coats of the copper coating paint. Or you could have it powder-coated with powdered copper.
its the paint .... i used mg chemicals nickel or silver paintworks great and has resistance of 0.02 ohm and copper sticks to it great
A lot of comments have suggested plastic primer, and that definitely will help, but also roughing up the surface (not much though - I reckon even something as fine as 800 grit wet or dry will key the surface enough if the primer is good) will make any paint stick much better.
Most people I’ve seen use a nickel based paint for the base layer
That’s what he is doing here
I had good results with super fine graphite powder mixed with acrylic paint and a bit of cleaning alcohol. And an airbrush.
Best results with coating resin parts are achieved by vacuum metalization.
Ive actually found that though it seems more conductive paints like silver, nickel and copper would be better, carbon/graphite seems to be the best. I think the resistance causes the parts to plate more evenly than super conductive coatings. Actually in industry, sometimes they just dust on a super thin layer or graphite and that works. Anway, i have had sucess with plating pla with caopper in a super simple plating bath with graphite shielding paint from mg chemicals.
The plating books I have read support your statement and say to use graphite, but I have no personal experience with it.
Try giving the part extra time to cure and then give it a coat of primer. Not thoroughly cured MSLA resins give off sulfur compounds that interfere with silicone curing among other things. An alternative is giving the part a coat of Inhibit-X before doing the paint
gently sand blast the part before applying the spray coating, might help
Would using a filament with metal in it help? I had some pla a while back that had metal in it for magnetism and so you could do rust effects on a print. Maybe having some kind of “metallic” filament could help the plating adhere easier?
If the paint starts coming off you must reduce the current (rate of electrolysis, otherwise this will always happen, the car industry has developed techniques to use very high currents, but these are very secret)
Many other comments already mentioned it, prime the surface and rough it up by sandblasting, but in my humble opinion, I don't think it will make much of a difference.
Apply more coats of copper.
You could try a zinc based primer, used in marine painting applications. Its incredibly durable, and air will stick to it its a great thing.
Shake the part in tub of baking soda for awhile. Baking soda is a light abrasive and will sand the parts exterior very very lightly halping the coating to adhere to the part. Will need to rinse with distilled watter or rubbing alcohol. This ticks seemed to work.
There’s a German UA-camr that does it watch he’s channel
use primer frist before use grafite powder and cover all corner witth a brush or cotton swab
Conductive filament maybe?
The part has to be a conductor before it can be plated.
Try going over the part with a graphite spray and test if electroplating works.
Use a coating of graphite prior to dunking the past in the electricity bath. Graphite spray is available in spray cans, but using a graphite paint and applying it with a brush could be more thorough for small intricate builds.
How about sandblasting the print before painting so the first layer of paint has more to grab on to? Thanks for sharing your struggle, the journey is more enlightening than the destination
Try a metal fill filament. Electrically ground the print, positive charge to the spray can. Then do your other steps!
have you tried to beadblast the part before primer and paint? Always a choice for resin prints
Electroless Nickel Plating is best to use a base before Copper plating it.
try spraying graphite spray on it after your sealer and before your copper paint
the missing step is electroless copper, the more difficult part:) $$ palladium/tin activator
Can't you add graphite to the resin and do the same electrolysis?
That's because you have to use graphite paint. Even better if you mix your own out of graphite powder and a light binder solvent
The secret is labmetal..spray that on and it should work....
You may need to prime or just use another product I've blown glass for years with a torch and we got into painting certain areas of the glass and electroplating pieces had the same issues some of the products just didn't work for me. what's happening is the reaction is happening but instead of sucking metal onto your piece it's sucking metal off your piece you're going to need to prime it with something that's going to make it stick
It’s because you’re doing it wrong.
You need to connect one side of the voltage to your part and the other to the material you’re trying to deposit on the part. Can’t remember which is anode and cathode.
You’re shorting the part out.
Can you get yourself invited to a factory 3D printing something really big like a boat hull to gibe us a tour?
Start with a simpler test form and use graphite paint, white acrylic paint mixed with graphite dust will work. I would probably start testing with PLA and use a butylene/methylene fixing agent to keep the paint on the part.
Your using a graphite paint right?
Looks like you're trying to plate nickel over copper paint?
Need to plate copper first.
Maybe it would be an idea to suspend some fine copper (or other conductive material) powder in the resin?
Your skills are built for show
Maybe a Problem with the solvents used? Have you tried FDM base Part?
a semi conductive plastic, like one with graphite, should support "electroless" nickel plating.
Have you tried graphite paint? It’s conductive and has different adhesion qualities.
The paint needs more texture to adhere to. Not sure how to solve that without sanding or chemical bonding.
Plating is a pain
Buy a book about it and you will be surprised at the results
Also you should of used bright acidic copper,
did you calculate your surface area for the voltage! The part looks burnt up
Copper paint is a pain you can always try silver. Works like a charm
I can say much with certainty but what I can say is you definitely have a problem with bonding to the plastic. I'd speculate that the thicker metal coating is just revealing that problem because the coating is now much more rigid and comes of in sheets when scratched. I'd focus on getting better adhesion: try a primer (might need to try a few different ones to find the one that works best). You could also experiment with different printing resins, liqcreate Composite-X naturally has a very slightly rough surface finish, it's expensive and hard to print with but one of my favourite resins. Might work well for this though I cant say for sure.
So many things wrong, not priming the plastic, not using a surround electrode to even out the current density and way to much current for an initial strike
Castable resin and investment cast one in solid copper? Then its extra heavy in case you need to throw it at someine 😂
Give sputtering a try.. The benchy should be small enough.
Electroless plating!
It needs keying and/or priming.
current might be too high
Try graphite yeah its expensive but so is gold
Funny enough , I had an student working on this and in 4 months we couldn't achieve results like in the youtube videos lol. What we concluded was that the intensity was to strong and the layer of metal was thick and rought... Even with the lowest intensity we could use
I was thinking about that the copper may be too thin and acting as a resistant and heating up the resin underneath. He should try with graphite paint since it has less conductivity.
I know what's wrong with it, it ain't got no gas in it!
self etching primer should help with that.
Isn't self etching meant for use on metals?
I don't think you can etch plastic the same way.
Not only do you need primer but you need to sand it so its a bit ruff and the primer has something to grab prime it sand again as many coats as it takes until smooth then spray the copper
Thank you for sharing that with us. It holds significant value for many of us to witness both the frustrations and the pursuit of perfection. It makes the journey feel more relatable and encourages us to give it a try ourselves.
sand & prime !!
Reverse the polarity. You have the idea of anode and cathode backwards.
You didn't use a primer first.
You'd be much better off with the world's best chrome paint and an airbrush!💯
no full length?
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@@MadeWithLayers Thank you!
i would practice on basic shapes. also aerosol can is a no no
This is not gonna work
Way to just give up,should keep trying ,its not even that hard i just did my first few electroplated pieces, edit * I stand by this comment I really think you gave up for little reason after a slight failure I been having loads of fun plating 3d prints and other stuff last few weeks
Is it the paint you are using?
I’m guessing a copper conductive paint
@@HyrumBurleson I thought you were typically better off using a graphite paint or even better a nickel paint for its higher conductivity. They are hard to get in some countries depending on environmental laws.
An electroplating 3d prints tutorial using graphite paint - ua-cam.com/video/TlD9USAhcEs/v-deo.html
you should check out alex lab. he has a proven process and has done several full iron man suits with it
Are you the guy in breaking bad
use graphite spray paint ma guy
youtube.com/@hen3drik has a whole channel dedicated to electro plating 3d prints
…and is also from south of Germany.
i ll teach you how to do it, i know that from a dental techician point of view
You need plastic primer!
Carbon fiber PLA bro
Try graphine paint
Switch your leads
too high current
tin sn99 soldering filament direct 3d print btw
Talk to them
👍
Just ask @hen3drik and i am sure he knows the soltuion.