Enjoying your videos as ever, watching your trials and tribulations puts my own workshop problems into perspective! Also a reminder that the BSA Twin cylinder head design was very marginal in terms of the relationship between the the stud positions and the bores/pushrod tunnel. I reckon it reached its design limit with the A7! Not that other British twins are that much better :(
@@BSAPowerSet The placement of the studs is so comprised by the need to avoid pushrods and especially the crankcase join area, air-cooling doesn’t help … 6 studs/bolts could do the job otherwise :) the 750 Triumph is more of an 8+2 little ones!
I walked away from a helicoil cock up of mine for a month,fixed it in 30 mins when I finally got my arse into gear .Good job Angus,it was never going to be staightforward when you look back at what you started with.
Many thanks Sam - appreciated. I’m exactly the same with similar jobs - too much looking, not enough doing, any excuse to attend to anything else - except housework of course.
How did you torque the outermost head studs? I’ve always used a good quality Salter spring balance, on the end of a normal spanner. Worked out the radius & tried to keep the pull at 90 degrees. I know open ended torque wrenches are available but they’re normally fixed torque values; intended for production line use.
I used I bit of heath Robinson - double ended ring spanner with torque wrench attached via box spanner at one end. Not as accurate I know but close enough I think - just some ingenuity like yourself. Thanks for interest and comment.
Same here Thomas in my youth - learnt the hard way thinking problems with sticking slides before an ex BSA dealer mechanic that lived down the road came to the rescue to advise - and also introduced me to meths as a petrol stain cleaner - works a treat.
Angus, I really enjoy the content of your videos, but PLEASE, put the camera on a stand. The 'jiggling' starts up a headache and the way you swing it around induces nausea. Seriously. I just returned to the BSA fold after almost 40 years away, by buying a 1972 A65T with 10k miles on it. Previous (only) owner put a oil cooler on it (well, it is Texas) with a electrically operated, temperature controlled valve so oil only flowed through the cooler when hot. The power wire to the valve was run out of the headlight with no fuse. Something must have happened and all the wiring is melted, blacked or just missing! Hence the 10k miles! Great channel. Thank you.
Cheers Steve thanks for the kind comment and interest - camera stand preference noted and I was thinking that in this vid when turning engine over to demonstrate rocket action - I’ve no excuse as I have the kit. Interesting info re your A65 - hopefully straightforward to fix - 10k only miles makes it very worthwhile even if some of the electrical components have been toasted. Makes you wonder why the main fuse didn’t blow though. Thanks again.
Enjoying your videos as ever, watching your trials and tribulations puts my own workshop problems into perspective!
Also a reminder that the BSA Twin cylinder head design was very marginal in terms of the relationship between the the stud positions and the bores/pushrod tunnel. I reckon it reached its design limit with the A7! Not that other British twins are that much better :(
Thanks Monza. Agree entirely with the comment regarding head studs. Interesting that Meriden 750 twins went to 10 stud.
@@BSAPowerSet The placement of the studs is so comprised by the need to avoid pushrods and especially the crankcase join area, air-cooling doesn’t help … 6 studs/bolts could do the job otherwise :) the 750 Triumph is more of an 8+2 little ones!
Great videos, very inspiring. I and probably many others would like something about the Rocket Three preferably test runs in the beautiful landscape
Thank you and noted - appreciate the interest.
I walked away from a helicoil cock up of mine for a month,fixed it in 30 mins when I finally got my arse into gear .Good job Angus,it was never going to be staightforward when you look back at what you started with.
Many thanks Sam - appreciated. I’m exactly the same with similar jobs - too much looking, not enough doing, any excuse to attend to anything else - except housework of course.
Sounds frikkin AMAZING!
Thanks Neil - appreciated. Can’t wait for a (gentle) road test.
Brilliant!!!! Made up for you.
Cheers Sam
WOW sounds like a different bike well done m8 i knew you would get there in the end 😜👍
Cheers Mick thanks
good work nicely done .!!
Cheers Larry many thanks.
Hopefully its sorted now, looking forward for some on board footage,at about 7500 rpms...lol,well done mate.
Thanks Matt - let’s try 750 rpm first.
How did you torque the outermost head studs? I’ve always used a good quality Salter spring balance, on the end of a normal spanner. Worked out the radius & tried to keep the pull at 90 degrees. I know open ended torque wrenches are available but they’re normally fixed torque values; intended for production line use.
I used I bit of heath Robinson - double ended ring spanner with torque wrench attached via box spanner at one end. Not as accurate I know but close enough I think - just some ingenuity like yourself. Thanks for interest and comment.
Angus D. Campbell Your method is probably safer. With the spring balance/spanner method you’re applying c.60lb - not fun when it slips off!
Just noticed I have the same Union Jack tea mug...
With a garage full of British bikes it would be sacrilegious to fly any other flag 🙂. Thanks for interest.
I have See more Amal carburetor problems caused by over torqueing those flange nuts than any other source of problem.
Same here Thomas in my youth - learnt the hard way thinking problems with sticking slides before an ex BSA dealer mechanic that lived down the road came to the rescue to advise - and also introduced me to meths as a petrol stain cleaner - works a treat.
Angus, I really enjoy the content of your videos, but PLEASE, put the camera on a stand. The 'jiggling' starts up a headache and the way you swing it around induces nausea. Seriously.
I just returned to the BSA fold after almost 40 years away, by buying a 1972 A65T with 10k miles on it. Previous (only) owner put a oil cooler on it (well, it is Texas) with a electrically operated, temperature controlled valve so oil only flowed through the cooler when hot. The power wire to the valve was run out of the headlight with no fuse. Something must have happened and all the wiring is melted, blacked or just missing! Hence the 10k miles! Great channel. Thank you.
Cheers Steve thanks for the kind comment and interest - camera stand preference noted and I was thinking that in this vid when turning engine over to demonstrate rocket action - I’ve no excuse as I have the kit. Interesting info re your A65 - hopefully straightforward to fix - 10k only miles makes it very worthwhile even if some of the electrical components have been toasted. Makes you wonder why the main fuse didn’t blow though. Thanks again.
@@BSAPowerSet : The battery is missing and wiring under the seat is missing but it looks like there was no main fuse! No steering damper on this one.