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History of Mori Kei and other Vintage Inspired JFashions (natural kei, dolly kei, cult party)
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- There are many fashion styles inspired by antique and vintage clothing in popular jfashion, one of my old favorites being Mori Kei. It almost seems mori is making a comeback now that cottagecore is trendy - but perhaps there's more to that then what meets the eye... Of course we can't forget the fashion style that Mori Kei branched off of, Natural Kei. We might as well also discuss the styles that mori inspired, such as Dolly Kei and Cult Party Kei...
You might want to make some popcorn, this one's gonna be kinda long.
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Some Resources:
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- tokyofashion.c...
- j-fashion.fand...
- web.archive.or...
- www.style-aren...
- thefashionatetr...
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Hi! I'm The Stitchess! I'm an interdisciplinary artist and seamstress. I started sewing when I was 8 and loved it so much I made it the focus of my study in college. After a lifetime of battling severe mental health issues - I found healing in the radical softness and Japanese kawaii communities. As much as I love fashion and clothing, I also think it's important to consider how and where clothing is made. I went fast fashion free at the start of 2019 to voice my concerns over the rapid consumerism gripping the garment industry. By no means am I perfect, but I think it's important to show that change is a process. I believe it is always important to strive to be better, even if perfection is unattainable. Thank you so much for letting me share my art and process with you. I hope we can all grow together!
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My biggest issue with the cottagecore craze is that ITS NOT NEW! I've been running aesthetic blogs and the like for years, and I remember cottagecore emerging about the same time that lovecore did in 2016ish. And at that time, there WAS significant overlap with mori girl fashion. It's only very recently that I've noticed cottagecore fashion move away from mori and more towards natural kei. And since the huge cottagecore boom that happened this year, the fashion aspect has become so commercialized that I wouldn't even consider cottagecore to be alt fashion. Like I've seen the most mundane earth-toned outfits tagged as cottagecore since it's gone mainstream. It's honestly kind of sad to see what used to be an alternative aesthetic with heavy homesteading and handicraft influences get coopted by fast fashion and rich teens on tiktok.
No same!! I remember running a cottagecore blog in 2016 and it was really just “wow wouldn’t it be cool to have a little house with a garden and some chickens” and like 10000000 poor gay people.
It isn't. No recent "trends" are. Cottagecore is inspired by prairie clothing worn by rural 19th century women of the west as well as the Laura Ashley/Holly Hobby/Biba 70s revival. Dark Academia did not have a name, but has had a distinctive look ever since strict European boarding schools were open. Bardcore was just an excuse for people to make medival remixes of their favorite pop songs for some reason.
i haven’t seen anyone saying it’s new though,, it’s become more popularized recently but it’s definitely not new
Same goes with dark academia, now everything beige, brown and black is dark academia.
Lmao cottagecore was present in 18th century, and people still think it's a new trend...
Personally, I'm a fan of dark mori kei but in general, I love how practical mori kei is. It can be looze and breezy in the summer or layered and cozy for the winter.
Saaaame I really wanna get some dark mori kei looks for autumn and winter ♡
Natrual kei reminds me of cottagecore more
Same
I think this too. If you look up the # on Instagram it's so cottagecore like
And mori kei is more goblincore
I think you're my favorite UA-camr, Baby Grandma full of history and kindness
“Baby Grandma” gave me a good laugh lol
As someone who fancies the fairy tale/ foresty/ earth tone aesthethic this is quite educational and helpful. Thank you so much for this video!
I'm being mentally transported to when I dressed mori and dolly kei. I even participated in the 1st (and only)
Dutch jfashion walk and walked cons as a (very bad) model. I also have the Grimoire fashion book somewhere lying around which took three months to arrive hihi😅
Also, just building on the cult party kei and Dolly kei being sister styles, how it was explained to me was that dolly kei is the girl from the fairytale village and cult party kei is if she died and came back as a ghost
@@grannydearest9129 nice interpretation of it
we eating good today
Ahh mori girls! I’ve been following them since like ‘10? I’m not one (my style is dark academia with the occasional “natural kei” in the 2017 Japanese meaning), but they've always had a huge presence on tumblr. xD Vintage tumblr user here. I'm not too sure how many people the term "mori kei" on tumblr-- I've seen it a couple places? But most of the people I follow still use the term mori girls Didn't even know the name change was for inclusivity, though I HAVE noticed an increase in masculine styles, which as someone who almost exclusively wears pants, was definitely appreciated.
Edit on the 2020 portion: thank you for saying cottagecore was from tumblr. I am so tired of people saying it's a tiktok aesthetic or that it's new. Like it's been here since I was in highschool. I had a cottagecore blog in high school! It, mori kei, and dark academia were probably the three most popular of the cores, and dark academia has also progressed over to tiktok. ALSO, I should mention, there is actually some tension between people overlapping mori kei and cottagecore too much. Definitely saw some posts earlier this year of mori people getting angry that people were putting cottagecore stuff in their tag. If anything, the old definition of natural kei (the one Westerners use but the Japanese don't) would probably fit better into cottagecore.
Mori kei is definitely more... feral? if that makes sense. And the domesticity of cottagecore actually doesn't fit with mori kei lifestyle wise at all. The two would probably overlap in goblincore (I could see both aesthetics engaging with this, and occasionally Dark Academia as well) or with witchblr (I HAVE seen both aesthetic communities engaging with this) but otherwise there's definitely been pushback I've seen from merging the two. So while nice in theory, because it certainly appeals to the same type of people and the same emotions in people, I think the difference in how mori and cottagecore RESPOND to those emotions is probably going to keep those two communities separate. Whereas Mori is about escaping the chaos and going to the woods, Cottagecore is more about creating community and spaces that are safe from the chaos. This is also why there is actually a significant overlap between cottagecore and the tradfem and Christian communities (paradoxically there is also overlap between the cottagecore and tumblr's lesbian femme community, so cottagecore is definitely not limited to Christians lol)-- it's not a full overlap but there's definitely a sizable number of people who identify as cottagecore who are active participants in either Catholic Tumblr or tradfem tumblr because of its desire to build spaces. Christians, for all their faults, really love building institutions. Perhaps cottagecore and mori may merge in the future, but I don't see that happening rn.
It’s interesting that the communities are so hesitant to accept each other. Kind of unfortunate.
@@TheStitchess Honestly yeah, mostly because I think the communities have already started to merge with other ones first that make them definitely incompatible (ie mori would not mix with Traditionalist Catholicism). I think if there were a choice involved, the members of the original communities would have probably preferred to merge those two rather than what's happened, but because the usage of the aesthetics was organic they didn't really have any control over who called themselves cottagecore etc, and it just sort of ended up like this. xD
Lmao i never knew about the Christian side of cottage core! Idk why I find the overlap so funny
I lived in Germany and Italy and there were a lot of vintage shops that decorated like Grimoire. The old Angelic Pretty store in Paris but I don't think that helped them.
I think a lot of people started researching about Mori Kei after us vintage dorks started pointing out that cottage core looked like Mori Kei... i remember a lot of fashion blogs talking about it in tumblr back when the trend started. There was a lot of positivity, but there was also a bit of a hipster "I liked it before it was cool" attitude
I hadn’t correlated the appeal of mori with cottage core, but you’re so right and I’m nestled in that Venn diagram going all the way back to the 2010s
The first time I heard 'cottage core' I immediately thought, "oh, so mori girl inspired?"
I used to work at a school in Japan and I had a student with the family name Mori and given name Kei, and now I understand (maybe) why everyone called him by both names instead of one or the other… I had no idea it was a fashion trend/style. 😆
I was mori for YEARS, took a break to go through my goth phase, and slowly circled back around to it recently via cottagecore. My family affectionately refers to it as my "hobbit phase."
Just wanted to elaborate on stuff I remember from being in the dolly kei fandom in the aughts and early 2010's. (Not community cause I wasn't buying my own clothes yet.) From what I remember at the time, dolly kei was not so heavily dark/goth themed as this video portrays. Yes, I saw bones and skulls incorporated occasionally, but just as often people would use vintage flowers, fox stoles, bird wings, etc. The emphasis was on having "real" elements: cobbling together vintage or handmade accessories. (This was what set it apart from fashions like lotita or fairy kei.) I would have described dolly kei as "baroque" not "gothic".
Heavy textiles like velvet, heavy embroidery and tapestries were the main fabrics, which set it apart from the linens/cottons in Mori girl fashion. Heavy makeup was also really common, and in the meetups I saw, most girls were sporting a least a lot of blush/eye makeup. (I think I saw more red lips start to appear as people switched from the late 00's/early 10's to the mid2010's. Also saw less over the top accessories like large belts and cocktail hats/headpieces.)
The two main accessory staples you needed were 1: huge curtain tassles, and 2: those big ceremonial stoles. (And yes, I remember these as being explicitly stated as "necessary" elements of a dolly kei wardrobe.)
Even though dolly kei was founded on a single brand (Grimoire) most of the bloggers I knew didn't wear anything immediately recognizable as a brand (except those Grimoire tights). I think that's why I liked the style so much. It really did feel like every blogger had to put an insane amount of time and energy into making/finding their cords, and I never saw anyone wear the same clothing as another person, because they were all antique or handmade pieces. I feel like it shares a lot with the dark/light academia that's going around now.
I used to be into country lolita until I found mori. Now i love the cottage core movement, but not the more sexy/fairy side. More the baking and sewing and unplugging side. Also recently heard the term ghiblicore! Love that too
It is a rather new trend/fashion I guess, but do you think making a video about antique kei / grandma kei and the edwardian/late victorian fashion aesthetics would be interesting?? I feel like there is more and more early 1900s fashion inspired people, a rise for gunnesax-y dresses and a small trend of vintage refashion like the shops meno tokyo and kind of virgin mary
I have a small theory, I think Animal Crossing New Horizons also impacted cottagecores popularity. Because cottagecore was so popular with that game it also took it to instagram and twitter. Making it universal rather in style of clothing or outside of it.
I love a video where I can click to learn about one style and end up learning about several styles. A nice positive way to spend lunch
Thank you for sharing the fruits of your research! Back in the tumblr days, someone made an interesting comparison between Lolita and Dolly kei, saying that Lolita fashion is like a delicate porcelain doll, while Dolly kei is an infinitely layered matryoshka doll. That analogy stuck with me for some reason. xD
One thing I came across, while obsessing about Dolly kei back in the day, was its coinciding with the peak of Asian doll enthusiasm internationally. There was also overlap between Dolly kei, Asian doll hobbies, and the fandoms of series like Rozen Maiden and Black Butler, which to me seemed like an indication of a bigger general trend and interest towards gothic/antique mysticism at the time. I just find it infinitely fascinating how different subcultures are interlinked and share themes and trends! :)
When all this dark academia and cottage core tik tok stuff I was like mori girl but western aesthetic ?
I'm at the end of the video now and I think the main difference is that cottage core is that it has a Disney princess vibe where mori kei is more like practical elf/witchy vibe because its a more layered and oversized fit. I loved mori back in the ye olde tumblr days but never dressed that way because it wouldn't suit my body shape.
This was so freaking fascinating. I was super into Japanese street style as a pre-teen, so it’s been fun to start learning more about it again as an adult lol
Look, you're onto something because I absolutely got into lolita because of lockdown. Spending time i the house again got me back into my teen interests,but now I am an adult with some disposable income and less inhibitions. I imagine many people who liked morikei and cottage core are doing that too.
I'm still browsing around and trying to find my aesthetic, so this is such a helpful video!! Thank you!
Friendly reminder that you can make your own aesthetic!
Is that kirishima in your profile he looks so cute ☺️
I really appreciate the amount of research you put into this. The fact that you narrowed down the location and figured out that they are surrounded by high schools...genius. Hit the nail on the head! Once the older students graduate and stop hanging out in the neighbourhood, there's no guarantee the younger students are gonna want to wear the same stuff. Man, this takes me back. I used to love Dolly Kei and Mori. For a year or two, I accessorized with a lot of tassels and peignoirs, when I was at the height of my interest in Dolly. I incorporated a lot of the style elements into my Lolita coords. One year we had a j-fashion walk in my city, and I had this sort of dark forest fawn look, with a long black peignoir, a simple black Meta OP, some rocking horse shoes, and a pair of ram horns. It was peak *softness*. Those were the days...
I was always told that you were supposed to look a little dead in cult party kei and felt the red cross was lowkey like resembling an ambulance also do the in brand idea I wouldn't mind hearing it
i felt like cult party kei had menhera kei elements with the red n blk and nurse looks. Also, even tho mori kei had a very natural appeal made me realize it sortaaaa evolved into larme kei in a way. (how fashion evolves, I am not trying to say it replaced the fashion.)
This video was very informative because, I remember not hearing about the fashion for so long and I didn't know what happened to it.
Hi! Practicing witch here! On the point of Grimoire, a grimoire is a book that is usually passed down from generations. It would be the "pretty" witch's book with spells, general knowledge and overall information and correspondences. The Book of Shaddows is another book and is more personal and more like a workbook or journal, might contain spells, maybe correspondences, unfinished workings, ect. Both of these may vary from practitioner to practitioner, like 90% of witchcraft, but generally, that's the jist of it.
I was Cult Party/ Dolly Kei in highschool, I’m so glad people still remember these styles! Even Grimoire Boutique, and to some extent The Virgin Mary Tokyo, have become more generic over time (but still pretty), they’re unrecognizable for me today.
I SOOO appreciate you making an actual segway for the ad! Thank you! There's nothing worse than an ad interruption in the middle of the video's subject talking. It ruins the whole flow of the video.
*cries in orphan of strega fashion*
I'd like to hear someone talk about dark mori and strega fashion again but they feel so dead and I'm sad
Oh god, cult party kei, I'm getting war flashbacks to the year everyone in Lolita was wearing peignoirs and calling it a CPK coord sjfjsbfkkd
I've been in love with mori kei and natural kei (Japanese) for about 10 years and since it died down it became extremely hard to find images of masc presenting outfits. Maybe in the near future I can achieve my mori style dreams
kinda cool coming back to this with how much the Aesthetic " Core" style are taking off now and how much they have evolved from harajuku/-kei fashions. We had preppy, goth, punk, Bauhaus, hippy ect.... and it's cool to see, cottage core, fariecore, goblincore, dark academia, pastel goth ect...... now. it's good to remember you don't have to be locked in a style, i'm an eclectic myself ^^
i love all these styles including dark mori/strega mori. kinda sad they aren't popular anymore :/
Guilty of reblogging so many mori kei fashion posts on tumblr back in 2011, 2012, 2013. It’s still one of my favorite Japanese fashion trends to look at but one that I would never try to wear myself lol.
I really do love your editing style. Thank you for the video.
Omg I'm so happy you finally did Mori. Thank you ☺️
Love the little break in the middle it's so cute!
Also I'd love to see a video on why indie brands go into mainstream fashion.
I wanted to be a dolly kei so bad in 2012... I wonder if I should try again.
there a decent facebook group with someone posting modern-day references so go for it
@@Saint_Medusa Do you remember what it's called?
The way you said Grimoire was really cute, I usually hear it with the inflection in the first syllable haha. Also love hearing this deep dive, definitely loving this type of video! I've loved Mori Kei for so long
"Remember to stretch your back and drink some water."
The cat on my lap: "You will do neither of those things."
The thing about Japan is that they'll often use English words that sound kind of like what they're after, but aren't quite right. Everyone there does English as a second language so rather than look up a translation, it's likely that they just pulled out a word from thin air. You'll see this Engrish a lot there.
I got the notification for this and dropped everything
Not to mention that in February, Covid hit and people have had more time to spend on the internet and explore fashion styles. Also, since you can't go anywhere, you don't have to worry about outside judgement and there isn't much to do, so changing up your fashion style makes sense and it seems a lot of people are doing it... it's really interesting.
From the beginning of the video I had a feeling you were going to bring up cottagecore! I'm not really into it, but I was pretty sure that Feb 2020 blip was going to be because of it.
Dang, I wish I could like this video twice. Thank you for this quality video.
I'm such a mori kei hipster when it comes to cottagecore; oh you kids, I liked the forest witch aesthetic BEFORE it was cool!
Do you know why this Kawaii- fide version of European western dress is so popular in Japan but not the West? It seems like it would have a more cultivated following in the West as a Vintage style of different century dress but more cute.
It *was* very popular in the west during the 60s and 70s, however it didn’t stay in fashion like in Japan *i’m guessing* because of our beauty standards.
Also 70s feminism demonized anything girly and labeled it “un-feminist” so in the next decade we got the power suit with the big shoulder pads.
It could also be other factors. Kawaii culture was taking off in Japan in the 70s and 80s so cute fashion just stuck, but in the west it’s just not like that. (Sadly)
very glad to have found this video! i wear yama kei almost everyday! with mori kei elements :) its a lot of fun even though i havent met anyone who wears it anymore...
I loved mori kei in high school and I’ve always wished I had the chance to commit to the style. I have a more fairy kei meets decora meets casual style now, but I love a good prairie dress.
I don't even know how to dress up fashionable nor do I stress out about what I'm wearing; but I do enjoy learning about fashion trends and it's aesthetics.
Years ago while going to college for graphic design, a class project we did was create a made-up brand identity base off from Harajuku fashion.
You did an amazing job on research and presentation.
Edit: Oh! You have a Harajuku video, I'm going to check that out too.
Gosh I remember finding the Grimoire blog in the early 2000's and being so taken in by their shop photos. Like wow what a shop
What a great video! Thank you so much, it was very informative. I've been a Morigirl myself since I discovered it's existence back in 2011ish (actually, I think I've always been a Morigirl, Coco just put a name to it.) But it was super interesting to learn about the origins and correlations of it's sister styles. It makes me sad about Grimmoire, though. It always seemed to me that Grimmoire was Morigirl heaven, but I've been following them on Insta and the stuff they put up these days is usually so... bleh. It all makes sense to me now, with what you said about the shops going main stream to stay in business. It's just so depressing. It's like creativity died. I'll always be a Morigirl, tho. I don't care if the fashion is dead. It's who I am. 😊🌳🌲❤️
I LOVE cult party kei!! It's something I've always fit into i just never knew what it was called xD but i fall more into.. the darker version of that
I may have an explanation for the cross motif that was seen in cult party style. Around the same time where cult party was big, there was a brand called Bla Bla Hospital which was an indie brand inspired by medical themes. You can see its influence in some other j-fashion styles incl. some of the alt. gyaru brands in harajuku at the time. The outfits were predominantly white and would have red motifs with things like the red cross, eye patches masks, red eye makeup, blood splats so their influence may explain why the medical motifs were quite common in cult party style
That dress is heaven
I'm really digging the Grimoire look, I think it's really similar to my aesthetic . I didn't even know it existed and now I have lots of inspiration to look through now that I have an actual term to search for :)
i have once tweeted that cottagecore is just mori girl with a defined waistline and nobody has provided counter evidence yet
I came into this video excited to learn more about mori kei and left obssesed with dolly kei lol
I love natural kei/mori kei, and it's probably closest to what I wear when I'm being my truest solarpunk self, but I'm a bit more swampcore/goblincore. There's a lot of sludge greens in my wardrobe. Right now I'm wearing a dress with Millais' drowning Ophelia painting on it and a huge khaki sludge cardigan.
Ooooh I love all these styles!!! I never heard if natural kei, though. I remember saying I liked Dolly kei and my friend saying she didn't. From these pictures you've showed that I've never seen before I fucking love dolly kei even more
I was wearing this type of look in the 1970s. Putting together my own outfits. Inspired by Laura Ashley.
The dolly kei style reminds me of kinderwhore fashion from the grunge era. I learned about that in an Angela Benedict video.
I'm not super into Japanese fashion, but if I were, Dolly Kei would 100% be my go-to. I dress kinda grannyish anyways (heavily influenced by styles from 1960s Ireland) but if I were to wear something more frilly and fantastical, the Grimoire aesthetic is just gorgeous in my opinion. I don't know how I never heard of it before. Thanks for this instense research, your hard work really shows!
Thanks for the video! I never truly wore mori kei but I've always been fascinated by it. I love lolita but I mostly see it as something I would wear when I'm particularly fancy, whereas the loose, layered look of stuff like mori (and boho?) is closer to something I can see wearing everyday, especially now that I've learned wearing clothing that is too tight can set off my IBS issues.
Blast from the past
I love Mori Kei! Thank you for introducing me to those later fashion trends as well.
Loved this video and your outfit!! That hair ribbon looks so pretty 😭💕
i've been watching your videos for a couple months now and just wanted to say your videos are super comforting :) thank you for creating, i hope you continue to gain popularity >w
Country kei is an interesting choice as country singers did dress like that in the 70s.... lol
what a time to be alive, this video is everything i ever wanted 😭
thank you for the reminder to stretch and have water!! so sweet and so important! also thank you for all the research and information. I do not dress in any “alternative” styles currently but I love love love learning about all of them
This is so fascinating, I love how so many styles have a single store as their inspiration. Also I love your lace cardigan! It’s so floaty and pretty and I’ve been watching it move when you move your hands this entire time trying to see if I could make it myself XD
It’s someone’s homemade project I thrifted ^-^ there’s some ink stains on the sleeve I’m trying to figure out what to do with. There’s probably a similar pattern floating around on the internet, maybe Etsy?
@@TheStitchess I’ll have to look around then! Maybe Ravelry will have something too. I’m so sorry about the ink stains, those are tough to get out
You could do some kind of tie dye or ombré dye, if you like that kind of style
I really reaaaally love your content. And honestly, it has made me feel so safe and comfortable toward my taste for fashion, that has a tendency to attract to... anything out of the norm? Your videos are extremely informative, and your perspectives toward modern culture it’s definitely something I agree with. Thank you for sharing, and keep up the good work. Sending Love 💗
i am learning more here than in college
can you do gyaru next?
Thank you for your information I stayed interested for the whole video.
You hearted my comment!!!!!
I was scambling to remember who made this video because I was trying to explain the type of lolita I like as being classic, but more layers and dusty, so dolly kei lol
Super informative!
I really like your video essays. Make one about why brands go mainstream and anything that interests you enough to do research. You make everything interesting.
I love those dolly kei outfits, especially with the jewel tones and darker elements
I used to be obsessed with cpk, I kinda forgot about these styles though, lol. Great video! Made me super nostalgic
I was into dark mori for a long time, but it got a bit too restrictive... Seems like there's this huge list of things you have to own or like in order to be allowed to call your style mori kei.
Then someone lost their sh*t on the rules so bad, they made their own style, called strega, where the only definition is "whatever you think a witch looks like". That's what I use now, to describe my style.
It's like a shifting mix of casual, dark mori / goth, hippie / bohemian and like, space theme and whatever else I like mixing in there :D
Fashion is supposed to be fun, not full of rules what you can or cannot wear... Lately I've been into creepy cute, pastel goth, etc aesthetics, even straight up kawaii things, and I CAN mix them into my style, because there are no rules!
I really love your jfashion history videos! Thank you for making another one!
I love getting dressed 🎀 it's fun to see other people who love it too🎀❤️🎀 love your videos 😊
Really great breakdown of a lot of information! As a goth witch who really wants to plop a cabin in the woods behind my parents' house to run away to, I adore dark mori style and the amazing things people do with layers and textures, but I have a hard time liking it on my own plus size body. By stereotype, you'd think I'd prefer the coverage and layers that "hide" the fat, but I'm more comfortable in fitted and structured pieces that play to my exaggerated shape. Maybe someday I'll manage to put together a mori outfit I like, though.
Love it so much! Never heard about Dolly Kei or Cult Party Kee but now I wanna start wearing it!!
I'm not even interesed on fashion but i'm suscribed to this channel and watch a lot of your videos, that shows how much of a good communicator and how passionate are about the subject. Hope you keep with this doccumentary style videos.
So much of the stuff I'm into, in this video! Thanks for giving me names to them. I LOOOOVE that Grimoire shop !
Huh, I've been calling myself a mori girl, but turns out I was leaning more towards natural kei with my style... This was a very informative and well-reserached video, keep it up!
With Lolita I think the searching is influenced by google since it keeps giving warnings about looking at inappropriate content so it might be that people are searching different words?
I know that we always joke that tumblr was and continues to be the hellsite demon pit of the internet, but it holds a special place in my heart because it's where I first discovered Mori kei and cottage core way back in 2013/2014
My friend heard me watching this video from another room and asked me why I was watching a documentary on cereal...
I love the way you do commercial breaks :)
Omg it was a long time ago. I was a mori girl but then I switched to pastel mori (cult party kei as you say in the video), and eventually as now I'm in my 30s, I again switched to Korean minimalist style (with a touch of pastel here and there)
My favourite is Hama Kei, the beach/water version of the Mori style. Sadly you can't find a lot of pictures and info about it.
Thank you for such a well researched and amazing video! I was really looking forward to this video since Mori and Natural Kei were what got me interested in J- and alt fashion so many years ago! :)
You deserve so many more views for all the wonderful work you do!
Very informative video :^) If so many styles still popular (or just getting popular) in the West are currently dead/dying in Japan, I wonder what are the styles being born right now...