This is what I call a great public service for all DIYers. Thank you for explaining so well and demonstrating the steps. Invaluable! I am now subscribed to your channel for good.
That’s a great tool. I’ve used similar plumbing sleeves, added a wide washer at one end and then used the cam bolt to drive in seal. When engine is installed in car and very little space for swinging a hammer.
Hey Luke, I just wanna say that I absolutely love your videos my guy! Every single video I've watched on your channel has been very insightful and detailed! If it wasn't for this channel I probably would have never attempt an engine rebuild. The excitement on your face just shows me how passionate you are about subaru vehicle and its inspiring. Thanks man and keep making videos!!!
Man, really feels good to read this comment buddy - thank you for taking the time to share this. Means a lot to hear the positive feedback and I’ll def keep this thing going!!!
I took the DIY tool furthur. Bought a slightly different piece for 1.50$ and had it machined ( 10$ no tax ) to the exact depth like the real subaru tool ( which goes deeper than flush ) about 3.5mm recess. So I just hit the tool until it stops then the seal is perfectly square at the same depth as the original !
Thanks, Luke...very nice way to set the seals. I have a single cam engine in my 1994 Subaru, it seemed to have a main crank seal leak, but when I took the covers off, I don't see evidence of that...anyway I never use the hill holder, but I was taking my girl to UCSF medical center, and I used it. When I let off the clutch, there was a "jolt", and the engine quit...The cam sensor was pushed cockeyed out of the back cover, and I thought that the Bolt had broken. When I took the timing belt off to get at the back cover, I discovered that there wasn't a piece of the bolt in the threads, so I guess that the hold down bolt must have "walked" out of the back cover. I was apprehensive about the getting the Cam bolt out after watching the videos about problems with the high torque. But on mine, the bolt (hex head, not socket head) it was not on hard enough to make using an old belt necessary...so I wonder why it needs to have so much torque at all? The engine has been running perfectly for the past 5 years and I had paid a low priced mechanic to set up the timing when I had the engine out to fix a broken head bolt (I Over torqued the last bolt because I didn't read the torque value spec properly after replacing a head gasket)...Anyway, the cam sensor tore the back cover hole and there is another little hole in it too, so I am at Pick n Pull in Windsor, trying to get that same cam bolt off, and this one is really on tight...the belt is still on and the cam gear seems to be held pretty tight, so now I am looking for a long piece of pipe to slip over the 17mm wrench to see if I can break it free while I'm going to the trouble, I want to replace all of the front seals, I wonder if I will get the correct main seal if I can't find a number on the old one? I don;t know if the crank has been turned...Thanks again for your video, I just "subscribed" to Subaru Only, and really like your shop...I miss my old shop and it's not much fun trying to work in a storage unit without power or lights, so thanks again for your great channel, I'll be back I'm sure...next is getting my Mazda RX-7 convertible running, without the mechanic that I used for several other rotary Mazdas...He won't touch them now, do you happen to know anyone in the Bay area that still works on them? Cheers, Rob robertooroark@gmail.com
Wow. This just saved me a ton of money. I work on a lot of subaru's and im always borrowing the tool. Now i know i dont need to spend $100 =D Thank you!
SubaruONLY so...I have a dilemma...original ej25 seized and I replaced it with an ej20. A head bolt snapped off deep inside the hole on the replacement. I’m now in the position to possibly have to scrap it and rebuild the ej25. Do you have any vid links on completely rebuilding heads and bottom end? Would love it if you did. Look forward to your reply. Thanks man keep up the great work!!!😁
That’s a tough one man - hate when stuff like that happens! I don’t really have any head rebuild or short block rebuild videos. BUT the BEST short block assembly videos are from “Subi-Performance” - he’s one of the most legit Subaru engine builders out there. Check those out and I bet you’ll agree!!! Cheers! 👊
Sweet, really really love this swap. I spent a decade in VW vans in the late nineties. Had a ‘67 spit window camper, ‘86 Wolfsburg weekender, and a ‘88 vanagon weary. I never did a Subaru swap but ALWAYS wanted too. Good luck and let me know if you need any help. And BTW, Kennedy Engineering used to make a sweet adapter flywheel kit.
I was just thinking about the old day's when I worked for Yamaha motorcycles, I use to remove the cam, or crankshaft seals with a screw, which I screwed in the seal and pulled on the screw with either a slide impact hammer, or with vice-grips, or pliers...
Hell yes! 👍👍 Done this too - great method! When careful, it’s one of the BEST ways to carefully extract that seal and leave that inner machined surface totally untouched! Cheers!
Thank you so much for your wonderful video! I just bought a 1999 forester station wagon and it needs a cam seal. I just wanted as much information as I can get on how it is replaced so I can decide what to do about it. Your video was great and I appreciate how much detail you went into in your explanation. I subscribed to your videos and I am looking forward to seeing more!
Jeez man. Just before I was on a british youtube channel. How annoying was that man mumbling around without introducing topics properly. You on the other hand are a pleasure to listen to.
Hey Luke, Thanks for the videos! My neighbor lady has a 2016 Outback. She took it to a local dealer for an alignment because her son said the steering wheel was crooked. The dealer said the following needs immediate attention. Rear pad and turn rotors (3mm). $315.87 Drive belt $168.15 Left & right cam carrier is leaking, double cam carrier reseal $2,489.20 I told her none of this must be done now and to leave and we would have someone else check. There is no oil on the garage floor. Do these repairs sound right to you? Drive belt - is that an alternator belt i.e. V-belt?
I can show you the heads off my 03 forester. It still has the factory set seal on the head and it is NOT flush. It is recessed about a sixteenth behind aluminum face, if not more. I am second owner of my car and I have a packet of every service down to oil changes done by previous owner at Subaru dealerships exclusively and on service schedule. watch the shape of your cam shaft and make sure you get your seal behind the dishes out section
hi where is your shop? you seem very informed on Subaru's I have an OutBack 2002 VDC does the timing chain need to be done? if so when? I bought it with 140,000 miles thinking about replacing the radiator and using Evans coolant. is the H6 engine better than the H4? in terms of reliability, maintenance, life, and problems? thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Nice video, I have one question, hope you can help me out, can l put all porpuse grease instead of the one that you have if I don't have it?, l bought it in autozone. Thanks for advanced.
I enjoyed the video. I need the encouragement to do the cam seals on my 96 Toyota Corolla. 1. Why not use engine oil or grease instead of assembly lube? 2. Why not put lube on outside of seal too to ease installation?
Hey man - thanks! Good questions. 1) those would work fine too, could really use any type of lubricant here, and 2) you typically don’t want to lube the outside of the seal because that could cause the seal to slowly slide back out of the block. The outside needs to make a good tight interference fit with the block so it never moves anywhere. Thanks buddy!! 🤙
Luke, I have couple of questions. On a SOHC will it be ok to adjust valve clearances before installing the head? Have ever tried it? I have one apart right now and will re-check clearances after torquing the head down to see if it changes. Seems it would just be easier to adjust on the bench at the point in the cam where no valves are open. I just have to figure a way to hold the head while I tighten the lash nuts. Would SOHC heads bolt up to a SOHC short block and vice versa? I'm thinking about a high compression budget friendly NA SOHC tuned for e-85 as a daily. P.D. BTW Loved your video on coolant flow and flow mod!!
@@SubaruONLY thanks! You wouldn't happen to have an in depth guide to the AVLS system? I put those little spring loaded barrels in for the intake valves and just wanted to make sure they went in correctly.
This guy reminds me of Rob Lowe from parks and rec lol, great vid and subbed, great info because I’m getting a heart transplant for my 03 yellow Baja, and it needs some work!
Hi I was looking at a picture of Subaru special tool for cam seals and it looks like there is a step on the inside diameter of tool that pushes the cam seal a little bit past flush. I was also wondering if you have any suggestions for smoothing out a a scrape in cam shaft that is directly underneath the cam seal and causing a small amount of oil to get past the seal. My Subaru Tech friend says to sand out scratch starting with 800 grit and working up to a maroon 3m pad.
Hi. The valve stem seals are sometimes not replaced when shops rebuild an engine. I’ve seen it quite a few times and I think it’s one of the biggest reasons people see a lot of oil in the exhaust (regardless of a recent engine build). Do you know if those seals were replaced with the rebuild? There could be other culprits, but that’s one of the common ones.
Dan Capobianco - hey man. No, you can do the front ones pretty easy with the engine in place. Just need to pull the timing belt and the cam pulleys. Good luck buddy! 🤙😁
What about removal? I’ve been a mechanic for years and Subaru’s are my favorite. I find people removing them do more damage than installing. They’ll just cram a 2 foot flathead screwdriver in there and scratch and gouge the aluminum seal surface. I’ve seen people that claim to be good knowledgeable mechanics do it as well.
I screwed a thin pointy screw into the seal and pulled the seal out without scratching anything. Also the micro screwdrivers for glasses handles work. Those are sold at the dollar store.
Totally agree with you here!! I’ve seen the same thing SO many times. In my opinion, anytime you are dealing with a machine surface that is intended to seal fluid or really anything, you NEVER want to scratch that surface in any way. And still, when it come to these cam seals, people seem to ignore this. Here’s my method. First, don’t scratch that machine surface in any way. I’ve found two ways work pretty good: (1) Use a small sharp flat blade screwdriver to insert into the face of the seal (literally puncturing it) and then pry it out using leverage against the block material surrounding the seal, and (2) Use small wood screws, by drilling a tiny pilot hole (or two) into the seal itself, but don’t go so deep that you make contact with the block material and behind and under the seal, then grab some pliers and pull on the head of the screw, to gently work out the seal. Both these methods work well to get seals out (cam and crank) without doing any damage to the machined surface under the seal. Good luck! 👍
I use a screw too. Hammer it in to get it started, screw it in a bit then use a hmer to remove it. I've done this on rear main seals and oil pump seals too without ever touching the sides.
Scott B I’ll make a video on that one day! I use a small pick or thin flatblade screwdriver usually. Also used wood screws quite a few times. How about you?Any suggestions?
Do you recommend making or buying a tool for the rear seal? I tried pulling it without the seal removal tool using a drill and lightly scored the crank shaft due to knocking it too far in. Had to order a crank sleeve from silver seal products which make them for Subaru crank shafts. Seen a few videos of people tapping them in with wooden blocks but that didn't work for me. I didn't lubricate the inside of the seal which probably made it worse the inner spring kept popping off as I tried to tap it in. Instead of trying to work inside the bay under the car without the transmission in I've decided to pull the engine to try again. Now I know oil degrades rubber so would 303 aerospace protectant being a rubber preservative be better to slide on seals or is assembly lube a must? 303 is pretty greasy but I wouldn't want it to interfere with engine oil. Thanks for the videos, amazing information and looking forward to more.
Hey man. Sorry to hear this. Always nice to have the custom tools but I just use three short wood screws and carefully sink them into the seal, then grab the wood screw with pliers or vice grips and slowly work out the seal. *I’ll try to make a video of this process in the future.
SubaruONLY Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Any tips on valve seal installs? I talked to a mechanic about using a paste and plunger to grind the bell of the valve to the bowl. Supposed to take out any imperfections. Also seen people hammer the seals on but could that recess the guide using that method?
Yes. That is typically called, “lapping the valves”. The paste you are referring to has abrasive material in it and basically “sands” down any imperfections between the seating surface of the valve and valve seal in the head. Good idea to do and very easy to do - just don’t go overboard and listen to the way the “sanding” tone changes, you will hear it change slightly when all the imperfections are removed and it’s sanding the whole radial surface evenly - at that point stop and move on to the next valve. Should only take 30-60 seconds per valve - depending on how fast you can spin the valve.
SubaruONLY The valve seals just pressed on after I adding some mobile 1 grease. I'm using the drill press hack works perfect. Good to know about the lapping that's what I'm doing next. Is a brass wire wheel too abrasive on an angle grinder to remove head gasket material from the cylinder only? I got 90% of it off but some isn't coming off. Also had a rough time getting the cog pulley on with the belt... stripped out the water pump which was a good thing because It wasn't oem and found a new oem part cheap. Working on an ej22. Thanks
+Brown Man Hey man. Thanks for dropping the question! I like to use an old timing belt, route it over the cam sprocket, then clamp it with locking pliers in a way so it doesn’t let the cam sprocket rotate, then loosen the cam bolt and DONE. Works pretty darn nice every time.
SubaruONLY well the timing Belt is still good and I just noticed that I may have a leak from one of the passenger side seals. Never had to deal with this for 15+ years owning my car. So now I'm trying to find the best way to handle this. I understand and know I need to remove the cam sprocket to change the seal but I hear some people experience trouble removing them 😪
+Brown Man You definitely do have to remove the sprocket to get to the seal, but removing the seal isn’t too hard, I just use a little pick and work it out slowly and carefully. I have see some use a wood screw too - just screw it in a little ways, not all the way through, then put few more around the seal, then pull with pliers or vice grips slowly and evenly.
Do the cam plugs usually leak? I have a bad leak and it looks like it's coming from the plug and I'm assuming there is no other seal that goes back there.
Enjoying the vid mate keep up the good work 👍🏻 just wondering if you could help with a question I have about the GDA model wrx? I have a blob eye wrx and am upgrading to coilovers and as I was doing my research I came to learn that there is two different size lower clevis’s on the strut one is 28mm the other 30mm apart from the 2mm do you know what the difference is? Is one sti one wrx or is one rx the other wrx/sti? Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Thank you for your video is very informative. Just a question the rear cam seal plug.is that the only thing that is sealing the back of the engine thank you very much.
There are the cam seal plugs and the crank shaft main seal on the back of these Subaru engines. Good to replace all three when the engine is out! Cheers! 👊
Thank you very very much for the information I appreciate that have an 07 outback bought it brand new the front seals have been changed numerousbut like you say it best to change them why they're out but do they normally leak the rear plug seals hey thank you very much for the response back I appreciate aloha.
Quick question: I am considering buying a 1998 Subaru Legacy · GT Limited Sedan 4D with some leaks on the cam seals. I figure it's four seals, and a bunch of wrenching on some stuff to remove them. I have built an entire Porsche 911 Engine a couple times, so I am fine with the mechanics. My question is: do I have to PULL the engine to get these seals done, or is it just a royal pain (but still possible) to do it without pulling the engine ?
Great question buddy!!! Thanks for asking! And those early Legacy GTs are legit man! Love those cars. You can absolutely replace the FRONT cam seals and the front crank seal with the engine in the car - it’s not too bad either. Just need to (1) pull the radiator, (2) pull serpentine belt (and probably easier to pull the accessories, as in ac, power steering unit and alt), then (3) pull timing cover off, (4) remove timing belt, (5) then pull off the cam pulleys. Those seals are right under/behind the cam pulleys. It sounds like a lot of steps, but it moves pretty fast and can be done in an hour or two no problem. It’s also the perfect time to replace the timing belt and pulleys and if needed the water pump, so consider doing those too, might save some time in the future! Good luck! You got this buddy! 😁
I am thinking this is a steal - It's really pretty solid - Aside from those leaks the timing belt has been replace at 145K and it's at 168K now. I know I can do that work as easy as you described. I have built two complete flat 6 Porsche 911 engines. I know I can do it.
I’m not 100% sure but I think the 1998 Legacy GT engine has a dual over head cam (DOHC) design. It that’s the case, yes it has two cams on each side. But either way, dual overhead or single overhead cam design, you can replace all the front cam seals with the engine in the car.
One final question. With the timing belt already replaced some 10K-15K ago, will it be possible to just skip that and not have to reset anything like cam timing? Is there any part of the disassembly that will disrupt the settings... or can I just peel off the outer stuff, be really careful to mark the cams where there are, and slip off the old cam seals, replace with new and then just careful reassemble? I just want there to be zero chance i screw the engine timing up. IF there is a way to lock the cams - I should be ok. I am figuring the cam sprocket must come off to access where the seals are, correct. I realize that is a bit of a loaded question. Thanks!!!
Hi Luke Thank you for this useful information! I am currently doing my timing belt on my 2006 subaru liberty, 2.5na 4 cyl sohc and i wanted to know what way you think is the easiest to take off the cam shaft pulleys without twisting them to much ?
Lock the timing belt in place use vice grips, so the belt prevents the cam pulley from rotating. This will allow you to put enough torque on the bolt to loosen it and remove it. You can also use this method to reinstall the cam bolts to the factory specs. Good luck - you got this! 👊
P.S. Also , check out my recent video on “Easy way to Install Cam Bolts” - I walk through this method in that video. And it works for install or removal of those bolts.
hello bro.. im about to change my forester camshaft seal, i have a forester XS (non turbo) and i dont know if i need to buy 1 or 2 front seals... can u help me please ? thx bro
This engine should be a single overhead cam motor. So, you’ll need two cam seals to do the front of the engine - one on each side. Good to replace both with you have everything torn down. Good luck!! 🍀👍
Seen this method used by many diy kids. Half of them still end up in my shop leaking. I show them the seal should sit at the bottom of the chamfered edge; which is about 1.5mm further in. Just my two cents
Hello I have a 2003 Subaru Outback I cannot get the crankshaft sprocket off due to the woodruff key being broken off in the slot. Tried a pulley to no advail. Any suggestions
+RoguePiston Yes, it is fairly easy. I have used two ways, here they are: (1) Use a small pick and flat blade screw driver to slowly work your way around the seal and tease it out gently and without marring the machined surface it sits in. (2) Use a few small wood screws. Screw them in only a little ways through the seal perpendicular to the face - not all the way through to the other side - just through the seal material, and space them evenly around the seal. Then use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the screws and slowly and gently work it all the way out. Hope this helps. If you do end up using one of these methods and can drop a message here and let everyone know how it worked? Thanks 👍👍
SubaruONLY good info, I've recently replaced the cam plug due to some SERIOUS leakage. Replacing the plug solve this issue. Unfortunately, 2 weeks later it started leaking heavily again.
Why did our rear passenger cam seal just pop out? I think they were replaced about 2 years ago when the head gaskets were replaced. Shop that did it is closed now.
Tricknologyinc could be several reasons, might not have been installed correctly or may have too much camshaft endplay, which slowly pushed the seal out. Either way, something caused it and it’s not normal, so I’d say you’re doing the right thing by trying to figure out why it happened. Good luck! 👍
@@SubaruONLY I'm used to old VW's, not Subarus. There isn't a chance that the oil return from the head is blocked, is there? I've always run Mobil 1 in it and kept up with changes. A heavy equipment friend said to look into this.
If you look at where the front seal goes, it has a bevelled inner diameter indicating the front seals need to be inserted just a little past flush with the cylinder head or they can pop out
@@rustyh1686 it shouldn't be an issue, actually the opposite, because it needs to go deeper than flush to get past the beveled edge. When I put mine flush it popped out, then I did more research. I hope to see the original poster update the video showing that it needs to be past flush. You should be good as long as it's evenly in.
@@stack.that.cheese Thanks for your response. Put about 1000km on it (yes , km. Im an Aussie, we use the correct measuring system🤣) since doing HG without any leaking or problems yet, touchwood👍
Hey Luke. I have a 2011 Outback 2.5, and I can't get the Crank Sprocket off (to replace the Crank Seal). I soaked it with penetrating lube overnight, but no luck. I'm guessing that sucker has a little corrosion, keeping it held on. I've been real careful prying on it, so as not to break a tooth or the aluminum head. Should I use heat? Is there such a thing as a Crank Sprocket PULLER? Do I need to take the Woodruff Key out FIRST? Any advice appreciated. Thanks !
Hey! Pretty common situation here for sure. Like you said, these get a little corrosion in them and get pretty stuck on there. Don’t need to remove the woodruff key - can leave that in place. Don’t think I’ve seen a crank sprocket puller - only thing similar is the company 23 tool that holds it in place (to remove the crank bolt). My standard method is to smack that crank sprocket with a big rubber mallet, slowing working around the perimeter to break that rust seal. Once you get it to rock back and forth, use your hands to wiggle and giggle that sucker back and forth till you can slowly work it off. Should come off eventually. If this fails, you could try making some type of puller that has the fingers that goes all the way around to the back of the puller and a center bolt that screws in to push the pulley off - but I’ve never had to go to this extreme. Good luck! Hope you get it off - cheers!!! 🤙
@@SubaruONLY I finally got that sucker off, thanks for your good advice. I used a rubber mallet just like you said to shock it. And then I took two smaller flathead screwdrivers (1 a stubby) and placed them both between the CamSprocket and the OilPump, and I then GENTLY applied intermittent pressure pulling forward, rocking the L-screwdriver GENTLY and quickly rocking the R-screwdriver, back and forth but fast (and GENTLE). Took about 100 or so times, and I could visualize it slowly coming forward. It worked like a charm, no broken teeth. Also, I tell you what, that Lisle Shaft Seal Puller works like a frickin charm !! I took one of the small flathead screwdrivers and pushed through the old cam/crank seal to make a "hole", then inserted the Seal Puller, and it pulled those suckers right out !! 182k miles on the original seals, they were hard/brittle and starting to leak. I used a wood shim where the "fulcrum" of the tool rests against the block so as not to damage it. I then used a Schedule 40 PVC Plug 1.25" to seat the new seals in place just like you said. Easy-Peasy-Japanesey !!! Thanks for Everything :)
Hey man. I don’t have a slick tool for that sucker, I actually got a piece of 1/2” oak hardwood, marked out the inner and outer radius needed and cut it out with a jigsaw. Could also do this with any material that’s pretty strong, HDPE plastic would be the perfect hardness I suspect. You can also, just push it in by hand to get it aligned and then very carefully use a drift and hammer to gently work it in by tapping around the perimeter, but I like to make a tool that presses it in evenly and slowly, that’s why I made the hardwood ring install tool.
I have always wondered about this because they have those caps that unbolt on the end of the cam. I have seen on Honda's and others unbolt that cap slide the seal on and on the corners of that cap add a little sealant like ultra grey or super grey then bolt it back in. Now on the JE20 twin cam I can see that being kind of a pain in the ass to even get that cap of the front of the cams behind the timing cover. There is some wiggle room though.
This is what I call a great public service for all DIYers. Thank you for explaining so well and demonstrating the steps. Invaluable! I am now subscribed to your channel for good.
+MrSoulMonk Awesome feedback - Thank You!!! More coming soon. Investing and Building out a SubaruONLY brick and mortar shop.
That’s a great tool. I’ve used similar plumbing sleeves, added a wide washer at one end and then used the cam bolt to drive in seal. When engine is installed in car and very little space for swinging a hammer.
Will it work for the crankshaft seal? What size is that ? thanks.
2023, using these awesome videos to help in my first Subaru engine assembly. Thanks a bunch, from Australia 🇭🇲
Hey Luke, I just wanna say that I absolutely love your videos my guy! Every single video I've watched on your channel has been very insightful and detailed! If it wasn't for this channel I probably would have never attempt an engine rebuild. The excitement on your face just shows me how passionate you are about subaru vehicle and its inspiring. Thanks man and keep making videos!!!
Man, really feels good to read this comment buddy - thank you for taking the time to share this. Means a lot to hear the positive feedback and I’ll def keep this thing going!!!
I took the DIY tool furthur. Bought a slightly different piece for 1.50$ and had it machined ( 10$ no tax ) to the exact depth like the real subaru tool ( which goes deeper than flush ) about 3.5mm recess. So I just hit the tool until it stops then the seal is perfectly square at the same depth as the original !
Excellent video, well laid out, clear, precise, to the point. Well done!
Perfect weather to be working on an engine. Looks amazing there.
+Nathan Cruz Hell yea it is. Love working on cars in beautiful weather...
Thank you - heads coming back from the machine shop soon. This is just what I need!
Awesome! 👌
I wish you told us we had to take out the engine first and also showed us how to take out the old seals. But the tool tip/hack was a great idea.
Thanks, Luke...very nice way to set the seals. I have a single cam engine in my 1994 Subaru, it seemed to have a main crank seal leak, but when I took the covers off, I don't see evidence of that...anyway I never use the hill holder, but I was taking my girl to UCSF medical center, and I used it. When I let off the clutch, there was a "jolt", and the engine quit...The cam sensor was pushed cockeyed out of the back cover, and I thought that the Bolt had broken. When I took the timing belt off to get at the back cover, I discovered that there wasn't a piece of the bolt in the threads, so I guess that the hold down bolt must have "walked" out of the back cover. I was apprehensive about the getting the Cam bolt out after watching the videos about problems with the high torque. But on mine, the bolt (hex head, not socket head) it was not on hard enough to make using an old belt necessary...so I wonder why it needs to have so much torque at all? The engine has been running perfectly for the past 5 years and I had paid a low priced mechanic to set up the timing when I had the engine out to fix a broken head bolt (I Over torqued the last bolt because I didn't read the torque value spec properly after replacing a head gasket)...Anyway, the cam sensor tore the back cover hole and there is another little hole in it too, so I am at Pick n Pull in Windsor, trying to get that same cam bolt off, and this one is really on tight...the belt is still on and the cam gear seems to be held pretty tight, so now I am looking for a long piece of pipe to slip over the 17mm wrench to see if I can break it free while I'm going to the trouble, I want to replace all of the front seals, I wonder if I will get the correct main seal if I can't find a number on the old one? I don;t know if the crank has been turned...Thanks again for your video, I just "subscribed" to Subaru Only, and really like your shop...I miss my old shop and it's not much fun trying to work in a storage unit without power or lights, so thanks again for your great channel, I'll be back I'm sure...next is getting my Mazda RX-7 convertible running, without the mechanic that I used for several other rotary Mazdas...He won't touch them now, do you happen to know anyone in the Bay area that still works on them? Cheers, Rob robertooroark@gmail.com
This was legit AF! Thanks Luke!
Hell yea - glad it helped! 👊
best subaru content online thanks!!! ive learned lots from you and your amazing channel
Thank you!!! Glad it’s helped!!! 👊
Just wanted to leave a comment saying how much I appreciate your DIY organizational systems and shelves in your workshop. Good work! :)
A A thanks man! Much appreciated!
Awesome tool hack with the PVC fittings Luke! Keep up the good work!
+Mark Collar - Thanks brother!!! It really does work perfect.
The trip to the hardware store - hilarious. =)
As always, thanks Luke!
Nice, glad you dig it!!!
Wow. This just saved me a ton of money. I work on a lot of subaru's and im always borrowing the tool. Now i know i dont need to spend $100 =D Thank you!
Sweet - love to hear this feedback! Thanks for sharing buddy! 👊
Nice work explaining to a novice. Thanks.
Thank you so much for taking the time to say something. Very much appreciated. 😁😁
Liked the little trip to the hardware store, clever. Great video
+Momo Hunkerton Cool. Thanks. Think it added a nice little touch.
thanks for this very useful tip, I love the way you explain everything, very helpful.
Luke, I gotta say I’m totally a fan now. Your vids are so thorough and detailed compared to others. Thanks for the great Work!
Awesome man! Stoked you found the Channel. Thanks for saying hi - Cheers! 👊
SubaruONLY so...I have a dilemma...original ej25 seized and I replaced it with an ej20. A head bolt snapped off deep inside the hole on the replacement. I’m now in the position to possibly have to scrap it and rebuild the ej25. Do you have any vid links on completely rebuilding heads and bottom end? Would love it if you did. Look forward to your reply. Thanks man keep up the great work!!!😁
That’s a tough one man - hate when stuff like that happens! I don’t really have any head rebuild or short block rebuild videos. BUT the BEST short block assembly videos are from “Subi-Performance” - he’s one of the most legit Subaru engine builders out there. Check those out and I bet you’ll agree!!! Cheers! 👊
SubaruONLY cool I appreciate it! I’ll check him out and keep you posted!
Would you have any suggestions regarding the head bolt?
At this point right now in my rebuild, thanks for the tip!
Nice - perfect!!! 👌👌👌
Awesome well explained full detailed and very informative up to the design & use of an oil seal... Very helpful 😇🙏... More power to this channel
Awesome feedback - thanks buddy!!! 👊
Very informative video...How long would it take and approximate dealer cost for replacing the cam shaft seals on a 2018 Suburu Forester?
Just about to install new seals, thank you!
You are really good at this, thank you so much for making these videos they are great.
Hey man, THANKS! Working on something big that is ALL Subaru and will lead to many more videos - please stay tuned!!!
Dude you rock. What a great demo and explanation. Thank you!
Cool, thanks!!!
Very well made video. Very well explained. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!!!
thanks for doing all this. getting ready to put a EJ25 in a 1987 VW Syncro. Getting some great info from your channel, you explain things really well.
Sweet, really really love this swap. I spent a decade in VW vans in the late nineties. Had a ‘67 spit window camper, ‘86 Wolfsburg weekender, and a ‘88 vanagon weary. I never did a Subaru swap but ALWAYS wanted too. Good luck and let me know if you need any help.
And BTW, Kennedy Engineering used to make a sweet adapter flywheel kit.
You are absolutely legend mate
Thanks for the videos and knowledge
Thanks buddy - cheers!!! 👊
I was just thinking about the old day's when I worked for Yamaha motorcycles, I use to remove the cam, or crankshaft seals with a screw, which I screwed in the seal and pulled on the screw with either a slide impact hammer, or with vice-grips, or pliers...
Hell yes! 👍👍
Done this too - great method! When careful, it’s one of the BEST ways to carefully extract that seal and leave that inner machined surface totally untouched! Cheers!
Luke, glad I found your video. I have oil leaking from the rear camshaft plug on my daughters 2001 legacy outback 2.5l. Any tips on removing the plug?
Thank you so much for your wonderful video! I just bought a 1999 forester station wagon and it needs a cam seal. I just wanted as much information as I can get on how it is replaced so I can decide what to do about it. Your video was great and I appreciate how much detail you went into in your explanation. I subscribed to your videos and I am looking forward to seeing more!
Thank you for taking the time to leave the message. Much apprenticed and very glad the video helped! Cheers and hope you like the future videos! 😁
Jeez man. Just before I was on a british youtube channel. How annoying was that man mumbling around without introducing topics properly. You on the other hand are a pleasure to listen to.
Hahah, nice. Glad to hear. Cheers!
I have to do it this weekend. Thanks for the hack man it will help Tremendously 😅
Your video very through.I was wondering if you have ever worked on the JDM Subaru engines?
I wish I found your vid first. How big an issue if I put the seals and cap in a couple mil deeper?
Hey Luke, Thanks for the videos! My neighbor lady has a 2016 Outback. She took it to a local dealer for an alignment because her son said the steering wheel was crooked.
The dealer said the following needs immediate attention.
Rear pad and turn rotors (3mm). $315.87
Drive belt $168.15
Left & right cam carrier is leaking, double cam carrier reseal $2,489.20
I told her none of this must be done now and to leave and we would have someone else check. There is no oil on the garage floor.
Do these repairs sound right to you?
Drive belt - is that an alternator belt i.e. V-belt?
Awesome, thanks for the tool hack! With d25 heads and stock cams, do I have these cam plugs you are talking about?
Yes, believe those will fit! Good luck!
Nice video. good idea using the plumbing supplies. Your trip to the hardware store made me laugh.
I can show you the heads off my 03 forester. It still has the factory set seal on the head and it is NOT flush. It is recessed about a sixteenth behind aluminum face, if not more. I am second owner of my car and I have a packet of every service down to oil changes done by previous owner at Subaru dealerships exclusively and on service schedule. watch the shape of your cam shaft and make sure you get your seal behind the dishes out section
If you are in there already, would you replace all seals and plugs even if they're not currently leaking? Thanks
Hi. Yep def a good idea to do so. Especially if those seals are getting old, it’s only a matter of time. Cheers!!! 🤙🤙
I've found a Subaru axle nut socket works great!
+John Doe Hell yea. Nice. Thanks for sharing!
hi where is your shop? you seem very informed on Subaru's I have an OutBack 2002 VDC does the timing chain need to be done? if so when? I bought it with 140,000 miles thinking about replacing the radiator and using Evans coolant. is the H6 engine better than the H4? in terms of reliability, maintenance, life, and problems? thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Hey boss , do you think is it possible to clean valves seats without opening the head from block or not
Nice video, I have one question, hope you can help me out, can l put all porpuse grease instead of the one that you have if I don't have it?, l bought it in autozone. Thanks for advanced.
I enjoyed the video. I need the encouragement to do the cam seals on my 96 Toyota Corolla.
1. Why not use engine oil or grease instead of assembly lube?
2. Why not put lube on outside of seal too to ease installation?
Hey man - thanks! Good questions. 1) those would work fine too, could really use any type of lubricant here, and 2) you typically don’t want to lube the outside of the seal because that could cause the seal to slowly slide back out of the block. The outside needs to make a good tight interference fit with the block so it never moves anywhere. Thanks buddy!! 🤙
Luke, I have couple of questions. On a SOHC will it be ok to adjust valve clearances before installing the head? Have ever tried it? I have one apart right now and will re-check clearances after torquing the head down to see if it changes. Seems it would just be easier to adjust on the bench at the point in the cam where no valves are open. I just have to figure a way to hold the head while I tighten the lash nuts.
Would SOHC heads bolt up to a SOHC short block and vice versa?
I'm thinking about a high compression budget friendly NA SOHC tuned for e-85 as a daily.
P.D. BTW Loved your video on coolant flow and flow mod!!
Great video and tips for my 07 forester rebuild. Thanks!
Awesome - glad it helped! Cheers buddy! 👊
@@SubaruONLY thanks! You wouldn't happen to have an in depth guide to the AVLS system? I put those little spring loaded barrels in for the intake valves and just wanted to make sure they went in correctly.
Ahh, I don’t... I’ll keep that one in mind for a future video! 👍
This guy reminds me of Rob Lowe from parks and rec lol, great vid and subbed, great info because I’m getting a heart transplant for my 03 yellow Baja, and it needs some work!
Love that show!!! 🤣🤣
Scrolled down to make this comment!
I got a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" "trap adapter " that is both tools in one! $2.06 @ home depot!
Hi I was looking at a picture of Subaru special tool for cam seals and it looks like there is a step on the inside diameter of tool that pushes the cam seal a little bit past flush.
I was also wondering if you have any suggestions for smoothing out a a scrape in cam shaft that is directly underneath the cam seal and causing a small amount of oil to get past the seal. My Subaru Tech friend says to sand out scratch starting with 800 grit and working up to a maroon 3m pad.
Thank you 🙏🏼 Luke !!! Any tips on removing the camshafts ?
Nice!! Glad it helped!!!
Luke I have a Subaru 2.2 that was rebuild very little miles am getting oil out of my exhaust pipes .
Hi. The valve stem seals are sometimes not replaced when shops rebuild an engine. I’ve seen it quite a few times and I think it’s one of the biggest reasons people see a lot of oil in the exhaust (regardless of a recent engine build). Do you know if those seals were replaced with the rebuild? There could be other culprits, but that’s one of the common ones.
Beast mode!
Is it necessary to pull the mother to replace the cam shaft seals?
Dan Capobianco - hey man. No, you can do the front ones pretty easy with the engine in place. Just need to pull the timing belt and the cam pulleys. Good luck buddy! 🤙😁
Helpful Luke. Thank you.
Happy it helped! 👊
Gostei foi da cor do óculos, onde consigo comprar?.
I did enjoy this video and it did provide value, subscribed
Thanks! Working on putting out some more soon.
Legit. Thanks 🤙🤙
What about removal? I’ve been a mechanic for years and Subaru’s are my favorite. I find people removing them do more damage than installing. They’ll just cram a 2 foot flathead screwdriver in there and scratch and gouge the aluminum seal surface. I’ve seen people that claim to be good knowledgeable mechanics do it as well.
I screwed a thin pointy screw into the seal and pulled the seal out without scratching anything.
Also the micro screwdrivers for glasses handles work.
Those are sold at the dollar store.
Totally agree with you here!! I’ve seen the same thing SO many times. In my opinion, anytime you are dealing with a machine surface that is intended to seal fluid or really anything, you NEVER want to scratch that surface in any way. And still, when it come to these cam seals, people seem to ignore this.
Here’s my method. First, don’t scratch that machine surface in any way. I’ve found two ways work pretty good: (1) Use a small sharp flat blade screwdriver to insert into the face of the seal (literally puncturing it) and then pry it out using leverage against the block material surrounding the seal, and (2) Use small wood screws, by drilling a tiny pilot hole (or two) into the seal itself, but don’t go so deep that you make contact with the block material and behind and under the seal, then grab some pliers and pull on the head of the screw, to gently work out the seal. Both these methods work well to get seals out (cam and crank) without doing any damage to the machined surface under the seal. Good luck! 👍
I use a screw too. Hammer it in to get it started, screw it in a bit then use a hmer to remove it. I've done this on rear main seals and oil pump seals too without ever touching the sides.
Great video but what about the hardest part...removal of the old seal?
Scott B I’ll make a video on that one day! I use a small pick or thin flatblade screwdriver usually. Also used wood screws quite a few times. How about you?Any suggestions?
Use the screwdriver at an angle and the seal spins off
Thanks! Great vid, and big help! Subscribed!
Awesome. Thanks. More to come!
Great video. Thanks!
Cheers and thanks!!!
Can the front seals be replaced without pulling the engine?
Do you recommend making or buying a tool for the rear seal? I tried pulling it without the seal removal tool using a drill and lightly scored the crank shaft due to knocking it too far in. Had to order a crank sleeve from silver seal products which make them for Subaru crank shafts. Seen a few videos of people tapping them in with wooden blocks but that didn't work for me. I didn't lubricate the inside of the seal which probably made it worse the inner spring kept popping off as I tried to tap it in. Instead of trying to work inside the bay under the car without the transmission in I've decided to pull the engine to try again. Now I know oil degrades rubber so would 303 aerospace protectant being a rubber preservative be better to slide on seals or is assembly lube a must? 303 is pretty greasy but I wouldn't want it to interfere with engine oil. Thanks for the videos, amazing information and looking forward to more.
Hey man. Sorry to hear this. Always nice to have the custom tools but I just use three short wood screws and carefully sink them into the seal, then grab the wood screw with pliers or vice grips and slowly work out the seal.
*I’ll try to make a video of this process in the future.
SubaruONLY Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Any tips on valve seal installs? I talked to a mechanic about using a paste and plunger to grind the bell of the valve to the bowl. Supposed to take out any imperfections. Also seen people hammer the seals on but could that recess the guide using that method?
Yes. That is typically called, “lapping the valves”. The paste you are referring to has abrasive material in it and basically “sands” down any imperfections between the seating surface of the valve and valve seal in the head. Good idea to do and very easy to do - just don’t go overboard and listen to the way the “sanding” tone changes, you will hear it change slightly when all the imperfections are removed and it’s sanding the whole radial surface evenly - at that point stop and move on to the next valve. Should only take 30-60 seconds per valve - depending on how fast you can spin the valve.
SubaruONLY The valve seals just pressed on after I adding some mobile 1 grease. I'm using the drill press hack works perfect.
Good to know about the lapping that's what I'm doing next.
Is a brass wire wheel too abrasive on an angle grinder to remove head gasket material from the cylinder only? I got 90% of it off but some isn't coming off.
Also had a rough time getting the cog pulley on with the belt... stripped out the water pump which was a good thing because It wasn't oem and found a new oem part cheap.
Working on an ej22.
Thanks
Dude !! Are you sure you're not that guy called Jean Claude van dame???🤔
@@gatoborracho4572 in a past life!
@@SubaruONLY that clears the doubts 🤣 great video!!
Baaahrgain, Thanks Luke
is it possible to replace the cam plugs and seals with the engine in the car?
Rebuilding my ej25 heads. Stopped to watch this video. Heading to Lowe's tomorrow. Ty sir.
Hell yea man. Good it helped.
Did you find it? I’ve searched Lowe’s and Home Depot with no luck.
I've always lubed the outside of the cam seals too. I take it's not necessary?
The service manual says to "Apply a thin coat of engine oil to the periphery of the camshaft oil seal and oil seal lip".
Thanks, I'll keep doing what I've been doing👍🏼
Can you use 1 1/2" for both?
Factory cam seals are recessed about 4mm beyond the outer cam seal surface.
Thanks for sharing. Have to look into this, 4mm is actually quite a lot. But thank you.
I noticed this as well when I pulled my cam sprockets off.
Would these work for cranshaft seal as well?
whats your recommended method to remove the camshaft sprockets?
+Brown Man Hey man. Thanks for dropping the question! I like to use an old timing belt, route it over the cam sprocket, then clamp it with locking pliers in a way so it doesn’t let the cam sprocket rotate, then loosen the cam bolt and DONE. Works pretty darn nice every time.
SubaruONLY well the timing Belt is still good and I just noticed that I may have a leak from one of the passenger side seals. Never had to deal with this for 15+ years owning my car. So now I'm trying to find the best way to handle this. I understand and know I need to remove the cam sprocket to change the seal but I hear some people experience trouble removing them 😪
+Brown Man You definitely do have to remove the sprocket to get to the seal, but removing the seal isn’t too hard, I just use a little pick and work it out slowly and carefully. I have see some use a wood screw too - just screw it in a little ways, not all the way through, then put few more around the seal, then pull with pliers or vice grips slowly and evenly.
Do the cam plugs usually leak? I have a bad leak and it looks like it's coming from the plug and I'm assuming there is no other seal that goes back there.
Yes, these often do leak eventually. Very common on higher mileage engines! 👍
Thanks 157Thumbs up!
Who the Heck could put a thumbs down to this video the Snap-On Guy HAHA!
Enjoying the vid mate keep up the good work 👍🏻 just wondering if you could help with a question I have about the GDA model wrx?
I have a blob eye wrx and am upgrading to coilovers and as I was doing my research I came to learn that there is two different size lower clevis’s on the strut one is 28mm the other 30mm apart from the 2mm do you know what the difference is? Is one sti one wrx or is one rx the other wrx/sti? Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Thank you for your video is very informative. Just a question the rear cam seal plug.is that the only thing that is sealing the back of the engine thank you very much.
There are the cam seal plugs and the crank shaft main seal on the back of these Subaru engines. Good to replace all three when the engine is out! Cheers! 👊
Thank you very very much for the information I appreciate that have an 07 outback bought it brand new the front seals have been changed numerousbut like you say it best to change them why they're out but do they normally leak the rear plug seals hey thank you very much for the response back I appreciate aloha.
Quick question: I am considering buying a 1998 Subaru Legacy · GT Limited Sedan 4D with some leaks on the cam seals. I figure it's four seals, and a bunch of wrenching on some stuff to remove them. I have built an entire Porsche 911 Engine a couple times, so I am fine with the mechanics. My question is: do I have to PULL the engine to get these seals done, or is it just a royal pain (but still possible) to do it without pulling the engine ?
Great question buddy!!! Thanks for asking! And those early Legacy GTs are legit man! Love those cars. You can absolutely replace the FRONT cam seals and the front crank seal with the engine in the car - it’s not too bad either. Just need to (1) pull the radiator, (2) pull serpentine belt (and probably easier to pull the accessories, as in ac, power steering unit and alt), then (3) pull timing cover off, (4) remove timing belt, (5) then pull off the cam pulleys. Those seals are right under/behind the cam pulleys. It sounds like a lot of steps, but it moves pretty fast and can be done in an hour or two no problem. It’s also the perfect time to replace the timing belt and pulleys and if needed the water pump, so consider doing those too, might save some time in the future! Good luck! You got this buddy! 😁
I am thinking this is a steal - It's really pretty solid - Aside from those leaks the timing belt has been replace at 145K and it's at 168K now. I know I can do that work as easy as you described. I have built two complete flat 6 Porsche 911 engines. I know I can do it.
To clarify... It's 2 seals or does that engine have TWO cams per side? I am thinking it's one per side.
I’m not 100% sure but I think the 1998 Legacy GT engine has a dual over head cam (DOHC) design. It that’s the case, yes it has two cams on each side. But either way, dual overhead or single overhead cam design, you can replace all the front cam seals with the engine in the car.
One final question. With the timing belt already replaced some 10K-15K ago, will it be possible to just skip that and not have to reset anything like cam timing? Is there any part of the disassembly that will disrupt the settings... or can I just peel off the outer stuff, be really careful to mark the cams where there are, and slip off the old cam seals, replace with new and then just careful reassemble? I just want there to be zero chance i screw the engine timing up. IF there is a way to lock the cams - I should be ok. I am figuring the cam sprocket must come off to access where the seals are, correct. I realize that is a bit of a loaded question. Thanks!!!
Where did you get those (hopefully safety) glasses?
1.25 inch would be almost 32mm which is a common size in euroland as well.
Are you always skiing?
I did not see this and pushed the seals/plugs way too deep. Should I buy new seals/plugs and redo them?
Hi Luke
Thank you for this useful information! I am currently doing my timing belt on my 2006 subaru liberty, 2.5na 4 cyl sohc and i wanted to know what way you think is the easiest to take off the cam shaft pulleys without twisting them to much ?
Lock the timing belt in place use vice grips, so the belt prevents the cam pulley from rotating. This will allow you to put enough torque on the bolt to loosen it and remove it.
You can also use this method to reinstall the cam bolts to the factory specs. Good luck - you got this! 👊
P.S. Also , check out my recent video on “Easy way to Install Cam Bolts” - I walk through this method in that video. And it works for install or removal of those bolts.
SubaruONLY thank you very much ! 👊👊👊
Great video
Thanks buddy!! 👊
What happens if the plug accidentally goes too far in? Will the engine blow it out?
hello bro.. im about to change my forester camshaft seal, i have a forester XS (non turbo) and i dont know if i need to buy 1 or 2 front seals... can u help me please ? thx bro
This engine should be a single overhead cam motor. So, you’ll need two cam seals to do the front of the engine - one on each side. Good to replace both with you have everything torn down. Good luck!! 🍀👍
Seen this method used by many diy kids. Half of them still end up in my shop leaking. I show them the seal should sit at the bottom of the chamfered edge; which is about 1.5mm further in.
Just my two cents
You are totally correct man. Thanks for sharing!!!
Hello I have a 2003 Subaru Outback I cannot get the crankshaft sprocket off due to the woodruff key being broken off in the slot. Tried a pulley to no advail. Any suggestions
Thank you for this detailed information it's much appreciated! Is it really easy to remove an old camshaft seal that's leaking?
+RoguePiston Yes, it is fairly easy. I have used two ways, here they are:
(1) Use a small pick and flat blade screw driver to slowly work your way around the seal and tease it out gently and without marring the machined surface it sits in.
(2) Use a few small wood screws. Screw them in only a little ways through the seal perpendicular to the face - not all the way through to the other side - just through the seal material, and space them evenly around the seal. Then use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the screws and slowly and gently work it all the way out.
Hope this helps. If you do end up using one of these methods and can drop a message here and let everyone know how it worked? Thanks 👍👍
SubaruONLY good info, I've recently replaced the cam plug due to some SERIOUS leakage. Replacing the plug solve this issue. Unfortunately, 2 weeks later it started leaking heavily again.
+JAMIE DEAN That’s a bummer man. Good luck my friend.
SubaruONLY c'mon bro, lol... I was hoping you'd have some helpful tips or tricks here....
Why did our rear passenger cam seal just pop out? I think they were replaced about 2 years ago when the head gaskets were replaced. Shop that did it is closed now.
Tricknologyinc could be several reasons, might not have been installed correctly or may have too much camshaft endplay, which slowly pushed the seal out. Either way, something caused it and it’s not normal, so I’d say you’re doing the right thing by trying to figure out why it happened. Good luck! 👍
@@SubaruONLY I'm used to old VW's, not Subarus. There isn't a chance that the oil return from the head is blocked, is there? I've always run Mobil 1 in it and kept up with changes. A heavy equipment friend said to look into this.
If you look at where the front seal goes, it has a bevelled inner diameter indicating the front seals need to be inserted just a little past flush with the cylinder head or they can pop out
This ☝️
I put my seal and cap in both a couple of male deeper than flush. Before I saw this video obviously, will this be an issue
@@rustyh1686 it shouldn't be an issue, actually the opposite, because it needs to go deeper than flush to get past the beveled edge. When I put mine flush it popped out, then I did more research. I hope to see the original poster update the video showing that it needs to be past flush. You should be good as long as it's evenly in.
@@stack.that.cheese Thanks for your response. Put about 1000km on it (yes , km. Im an Aussie, we use the correct measuring system🤣) since doing HG without any leaking or problems yet, touchwood👍
Hey Luke. I have a 2011 Outback 2.5, and I can't get the Crank Sprocket off (to replace the Crank Seal). I soaked it with penetrating lube overnight, but no luck. I'm guessing that sucker has a little corrosion, keeping it held on. I've been real careful prying on it, so as not to break a tooth or the aluminum head. Should I use heat? Is there such a thing as a Crank Sprocket PULLER? Do I need to take the Woodruff Key out FIRST? Any advice appreciated. Thanks !
Hey! Pretty common situation here for sure. Like you said, these get a little corrosion in them and get pretty stuck on there.
Don’t need to remove the woodruff key - can leave that in place. Don’t think I’ve seen a crank sprocket puller - only thing similar is the company 23 tool that holds it in place (to remove the crank bolt).
My standard method is to smack that crank sprocket with a big rubber mallet, slowing working around the perimeter to break that rust seal. Once you get it to rock back and forth, use your hands to wiggle and giggle that sucker back and forth till you can slowly work it off. Should come off eventually.
If this fails, you could try making some type of puller that has the fingers that goes all the way around to the back of the puller and a center bolt that screws in to push the pulley off - but I’ve never had to go to this extreme. Good luck! Hope you get it off - cheers!!! 🤙
@@SubaruONLY I finally got that sucker off, thanks for your good advice. I used a rubber mallet just like you said to shock it. And then I took two smaller flathead screwdrivers (1 a stubby) and placed them both between the CamSprocket and the OilPump, and I then GENTLY applied intermittent pressure pulling forward, rocking the L-screwdriver GENTLY and quickly rocking the R-screwdriver, back and forth but fast (and GENTLE). Took about 100 or so times, and I could visualize it slowly coming forward. It worked like a charm, no broken teeth. Also, I tell you what, that Lisle Shaft Seal Puller works like a frickin charm !! I took one of the small flathead screwdrivers and pushed through the old cam/crank seal to make a "hole", then inserted the Seal Puller, and it pulled those suckers right out !! 182k miles on the original seals, they were hard/brittle and starting to leak. I used a wood shim where the "fulcrum" of the tool rests against the block so as not to damage it. I then used a Schedule 40 PVC Plug 1.25" to seat the new seals in place just like you said. Easy-Peasy-Japanesey !!! Thanks for Everything :)
Great video! Do you need to have the motor out to do this?
+Josh ___ Thanks man. Don’t have to have it out - BUT it’s so much easier that it’s usually worth the extra effort!!
Hi Luke what do you use to install the rear main seal?
Hey man. I don’t have a slick tool for that sucker, I actually got a piece of 1/2” oak hardwood, marked out the inner and outer radius needed and cut it out with a jigsaw. Could also do this with any material that’s pretty strong, HDPE plastic would be the perfect hardness I suspect. You can also, just push it in by hand to get it aligned and then very carefully use a drift and hammer to gently work it in by tapping around the perimeter, but I like to make a tool that presses it in evenly and slowly, that’s why I made the hardwood ring install tool.
Thanks for the video. Would love to see a video on how to take out a camshaft seal without removing the entire cap!
Will put that one in the cue! Thanks for dropping the line. Cheers! 🤙
Thanks again! You absolutely helped me get my cylinder head back together again! I turned a left hand head into a right hand one!
Nice man! Stoked to have helped! 👊
Can u do a gear box rebuild?
Is there an equivalent size of PVC that can be used to install the EJ253 SOHC Crankshaft seal?
I don’t have one but hold tight for my next video where I review some custom tools too install these seals! Cheers!
I have always wondered about this because they have those caps that unbolt on the end of the cam. I have seen on Honda's and others unbolt that cap slide the seal on and on the corners of that cap add a little sealant like ultra grey or super grey then bolt it back in. Now on the JE20 twin cam I can see that being kind of a pain in the ass to even get that cap of the front of the cams behind the timing cover. There is some wiggle room though.
👌
Hi is that works for the H6 engines as well? I do like the video, thanks and keep it up.
Hi i got question i put head gasket on and all new seal and the right rear cam seal came out while driving it any help or ideas thanks