Subaru Cylinder Head Installation
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- Опубліковано 18 лис 2016
- General overview of cylinder head installation on a 1998 Subaru EJ25D engine.
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - Авто та транспорт
When I used to work in aviation I had a few Snap-on tools, they're awesome, but so very expensive.. Great job with this install!
This video is my Bible for installing the new head on my subaru.
Thank you MrSubaru, I have my car in the garage with the heads hasket blown, for me it becomes a bit intimidating to do the work, you make it look so easy! I appreciate the video, thanks Mr.
I just put my heads back on after changing the HGs. It's really straightforward as long as you have have good tools, the repair manual, and work on it without being tired. Just take your time and don't rush.
I have had delays due to sending the heads out to be rebuilt, but these engines are a real pleasure to work on. The whole vehicle, actually. The engineers did a fantastic job keeping mechanics in mind.
Good luck!
once again great video. good attention to detail. can' t wait to see your engine building videos. great snap on torque wrench. I wish I had one when I did this job.
+ejmagras glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
just picked up a 98 rs, pulled engine because it was ran out of oil. took everything off the block. will be using the video as reference when putting it back together.
Thats a nice torque wrench. Nicely done video. Thank you
You're welcome 👍🏻
Killer video!!! Quality is very very good. I have the same exact torque wrench and I love it.
+Paul Morales glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
Thank you very much, excellent presentation! A+++
Awesome Job thanks for the video.
+Kelly no name thanks. Glad you enjoyed.
GREAT WORK, THANK YOU!
very great work like your work
+CARS LOVER thank you!
Don't remember the heads on my 99 being clover leaf, but I was heavily sleep deprived during that short block swap. Even got to play an unintentional game of "shim bucket shuffle"
+Sean Black ouch. Never good. It's easy to do if you arent careful. I started to remove the cams with the engine parallel to the floor. Nearly lost all the exhaust buckets.
if I may...could you help me find which is the proper gasket for an ej20 JDM sohc...that i can use on my 69 vw ej20 powered, thanks...for the help, most of all for explaining the details on used cylinder head bolts.
@ 12:12 you say to check the cam for free movement, what do I do if the cam moves but is much stiffer than the rest? with the pulleys on I can easily turn the others with just two fingers, with the drivers side exhaust cam I have to grip the whole thing with my hand. what should I do?
It was soon quiet there. Can I come there to rebuild my heads? Great video. Thanks. I will now research stretching head bolts.
I have a question.. is it safe to rum a 2.5 non turbo with a heads that have cracks from the spark plug thread to the valves?? With a pressure test from the machine shop
After torquing head bolts down I noticed oil from the bolts got in between the gasket and mating surfaces, so I take off and redo??! Also would I need to buy new gaskets again if already fully torqued?
I've worked with 90's Subarus a lot but nothing really newer than that. You say the process outlined is very similar to other 4 cylinder Subaru engines. So I'm guessing if I'm reusing the head bolts on any new Subaru N/A engine, 2000-present, that I can use the same torque procedure as shown in the video?
Do the Torque specs apply the same for an ej205?
Awesome video! Nothing more relaxing than seeing an engine worked on :-) What model is that Snap On Digital Torque Wrench that your using? I gotta get me one of them!
+Matthew Barry it's the 12.5-250ft lb Techangle. ATECH3FR250B
Hey man nice work, quick question? Do i have to use anaerobic sealant or can I use ultra grey gasket maker rated for 500° under the #1 cam caps?
Permatex ultra grey.
How much it will cost replacing the head gaskets in a forester 2001?
Question, how clean does the block surface need to be? I had the heads sent to the shop and i've been cleaning the block for 2 or more hours. I've used a razor, a rag with brake cleaner, and a abrasive and there is still some black/gray discoloration on the surface but it feels smooth. Does the block surface have to be a nice shiny metal color or is the discoloration fine as long as the surface is smooth?
As long as the surface is smooth, you "should" be fine. You could get a feeler gauge for like $5 if you wanted to be precise, but its probably not necessary. The issue with the heads is that they are aluminum, so they are more likely to warp under heat and pressure, and that's why they need to be machined. The block is cast steel and much less likely to warp. I've never seen a case where the block needed to be resurfaced. If you have some doubt, a bit of Permatex Copper Gasket Adhesive will help cover for the irregularities, as well as make the install process easier.
can i use these specif for my ej20 sti jdm 1998? (1.6 mm gasket tick)
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I’m still learning about different styles of engines... but there is indeed another cylinder head on the other side of the engine block because it’s a boxer style engine, correct?
Yes. Two cylinder heads. Directly across from one another.
Good video..,
I learn a lot today..!!! Lol.
(Seriously, I did)
Hi, friend , I have a question about the tightening torques for the plugs in the engine cylinder block. М18х1,5 For the oil pressure sensor adapter, what torque to tighten, thank you very much for your work and video, I wish you good luck
really helpful im working on my 03 outback coolant leaking one side and the other leaks oil. just wonder can i use the same head bolts or do i need new ones thanks for you response
+Carlos bolts can be reused if they are in good shape. Most replace them just to be on the safe side.
Would the head bolt sequence and values be the same for an EJ25 SOHC? Obviously the valve related values are all different. Thanks!
Check out the channel, I have a video on the SOHC, like 2 weeks ago I posted it.
Do you recommend a gasket kit?
Question, In the service manual I have (JDM ej20g) One page has a torque of 7 ft lbs for the cam caps, and another page has a torque of 14.5 ft lbs for the same bolts. Now I've also read and have been told that the front cap has a lower torque than the middle and back caps. So 7 ft lbs for the front and 14.5 for the middle and back? Or just keep them all at 7 ft lbs which is what their at now.
+Mother Sloth hard to say. That's strange that the manual would contradict itself like that.
Yea it did the same for the cam gear bolts, 28 ft lbs and 58, and it also says only 90 ft lbs for the crank pulley.
Hey great video sir, my question is what is the part number for those OE MLS gaskets? I usually use the felpro perma-seal gaskets but would like to switch. Are the gaskets u used in the video 2010 gaskets? cause the updated 2000 ones look identical from the old design. Thanks
I don't have the HG p/n. I buy the full engine gasket kits from Subaru. This was a 1998 EJ25D.
@@MrSubaru1387 would you recommend this process on the single over head cam ej25 engine also
I picked up used motor 140k for 05 Forester. No issues with head gaskets. I decided since engine is out to replace Headgasket and timing components, it has OEM gaskets still in good shape. Since I ready purchase a new felpro mls gaskets, would I still need to resurface heads even though it had no history of failing head gasket?
Never use FelPro head gaskets. Always resurface a cylinder head when replacing the head gasket.
great, great, great video
+Miguel Leal thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
MrSubaru1387 should do more videos like these but subaru only
+Miguel Leal I've got around 4-5 more engine building videos filmed. I just need to edit and post them. Time is my main hurdle in doing so.
I have 5-10 repair videos coming, all Subaru right now, and editing is my biggest hurdle as well. I feel your pain!
This videos really come in handy thank you guys for posting them up, keep up the good work
Don't they recommend a 180° off in part of this sequence?
hey just wondering cause i see people say you and you dont.... when putting the valve cover back on with new gasket and etc do you need to use RTV around gasket area before placing valve cover on its on a 2002 wrx??? Thanks
+Blake Roderick just a dab of permatex ultra grey in the corners of the cam caps and around the half moon seal is all you need.
MrSubaru1387 thank you that is what I end up doing!! Just want to check and see cause see so many things about that!! Thanks again
Having done this. It can be hard to remember the order. And seriously, it's hard to get those 90's in. I did mine on a crate! Difficulty level = Nightmare.
@Невада большевик I know, I considered this, but I was doing a total reseal. It needed to be out at that point. It's been 4 years since the work was done, and no leaks. In my case, I did it on a EJ22.
When installing the cams do you just put them so the heel of the cam is on the bucket? And great video by way!!
+MrSHAMSHIT just. Install the cams in the neutral position with no tension on the lobes.
Love the videos! So you are alright reusing old head bolts? Is there any disadvantage? Also, I'm going to be replacing HG's on the sohc ej25 on an 03 legacy. Same idea? Reuse head bolts? Thanks for the great vids.
Subaru advises replacing head bolts because they're torque to yield. That means they stretch during torquing. Subaru techs everywhere reuse head bolts without fail. Now, if the head bolts are corroded or damaged, replace them. If you reuse them, the skip the initial torquing and loosening of the bolts in the tightening procedure.
MrSubaru1387 thanks so much! Appreciate your videos for our Subaru fleet!
You're welcome. 👍
Hey MrSubaru, how on Gods great Earth did you get that copper EGR pipe off that connects to the intake manifold? My one is so seized up.... I'm dealing with an EJ25D 98 Legacy Outback. Thanks!!
+Nasir Younus I just turned it with a wrench. Lol. My 98 was a rust free southern car. You can try some penetrating oil or some heat from a torch.
sigh, youre very lucky! Thanks for the insight!
Cool video I have question which head gaskets would you use for SOHC Forester the six star gaskets or the new oem Subaru 11044AA642 gaskets
+ESPN OCHO Subaru oem only.
Nice vid man. If you use new head bolts is that when you have to back them out 180?
YESIR, TO STRETCH THEM, THESE ARE PRE-STRETCHED SINCE THEYVE BEEN USED
Wouldn't assembly lube like Royal Purple be better?
Putting in new arp head studs u mentioned in the beginning of the video there is a different route to stretch the bolts ? What would that be ?
+Cole Fisher you don't stretch head studs. Follow the torque specs provided with the studs. Only the factory Subaru head bolts, or any aftermarket head bolts need be stretched.
MrSubaru1387 thank you this video really helped me in many ways
Great video what a good production as well as the spanner work. Is it roughly the same procedure for the H6? I need to replace my head gaskets :( Don't suppose you're coming to the UK any time soon??
+Paul Appleby it's quite a bit more complex unfortunately. Timing chains, multiple tensioners, lots of sealing surfaces in the massive aluminum timing covers. Check out my H6 timing chain video.
Hi Mr. Subaru could you please give me some advise as I am a Subaru Noob.
I have a B4 twin turbo and I have just blown a head gasket so I have to replace them.
Apparently the stock gasket for my engine is 0.8mm thick and its running a 9:1 compression ratio with around 14 psi as a stock waste gate opening pressure.
I know that the diesel engines have about a 20:1 compression ratio so I investigated the thickness EE25 diesel engines head gasket which is apparently 1.6mm thick.
And I got an idea, if I used a diesel engines head gasket it may be stronger because of the high compression ratio and being thicker would mean that my compression ratio would drop, which suits my long term plan of running at about 19 psi of boost to just get a little bit more grunt out of the car without looking for too much trouble as its my daily drive to work car and I dont want to compromise the reliability too much.
I also dont know if the head gaskets would fit, my engine is a EJ206DXBKE.
If you could tell me what you think about this idea I would really appreciate it.
+EVZebra I'd go with the OE head gasket for your engine, depending of course, on what the machine shop recommends after they've refinished your heads. You'll have to see how much they have to shave them first.
Ok cool thanks very much for the advise.
Nevermind, found it! 😎
Can you reuse the the old bolt?
Is the head gasket failure as common as people say on the 2.5 ej205 engine? I am just curious because I'm picking up a 2002 Wrx soon, and it has 127k on it. The guy has all the service records, and the car is quite clean, but I'm just concerned on when to expect a head gasket failure.
+NoBeatsNoProblem the 2.0L EJ205 found in the WRX does not have headgasket issues. Only the EJ25D, EJ251, and EJ253 had the issue.
MrSubaru1387 Oh good, thanks a ton. I couldn't really fins. direct answer, but now it's clarified, an thanks.
Also remember to add good coolant like subaru oem coolant and not plain tap water. Headgaskets fail also because of short distance trips.
Did that torque wrench actually determine the 90 degree position when tightening down the bolts?!
Yes It's a 500 dollar Snap-On torque/ angle wrench. Most come like his; chrome with black and red trim. Mine is all black and green trim. It's a pretty sweet tool. ;)
is it the oil pressure sensor or oil pressure switch sensor? or are they the same thing?
+cito vazquez should be the same thing.
Awesome video, came out just in time for me to do mine. Also, where the head gaskets you used MLS?
+Mother Sloth I used, and only recommend, Subaru OE MLS head gaskets.
Are these revised, or are they the original design? The original design is known to be flawed due to the coating used on the gaskets.
+802Garage factory was coated gasket with lead these are multi layer steel.
Gotcha, I just wasn't sure if the new OE recommended gaskets had been amended. I believe they weren't for quite some time.
watching you torque all the blots is like watching paint dry. otherwise, great video.
My daughter would include this in her "most satisfying to watch videos". Very meditative.
what comes after this part?
Hi Mr Subaru what is your preference in head gaskets? Can you rate them according to preferences. Oem; felpro, etc....
Subaru OE MLS is the only gasket I use.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you
Im changing my head gaskets on my ej20 sohc...can i reuse my cylinder hesd bolts?
9 times out of 10, yes, you can.
Hi, Mr. Subaru, do you check the block for warpage? I had my heads on my 1997 outback machined but did not get my block checked.
Usually just throw a straightedge across it and check it with a feeler gauge. Usually isn't a problem, unless severely overheated.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks
You're welcome 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 Just put my 97 OB engine in today. machined heads! New gaskets. Clean engine!...... experienced rough idle. throwing water thru the overflow. Will check compression and check spark plugs for coolant. Rats!!!! It's going to be a long weekend😒. Any suggestions? Will cry myself to sleep
MrSubaru1387. finally regained my sanity. checked the compression, checked the spark plugs. not ok. took the heads off re-checked the heads and block. ok. Replaced the head gaskets again. I used your video. put on a new Water pump. Started car today. no coolant leaks. idle was good. But Having difficulty getting air from the system. both hoses get hot Then the system seems to develop more air bubbles. runs it at 2000 RPM to get bubbles out but no success. Any suggestions.
My engine head and engine block has warp due to overheating. its resurfaced by machine and I was told that 0.25mm was lost from that. to cover that loss i was told to put a thicker than OEM spec. what would you recommend for me?
+Nilanga Samarasinghe go by what the machinist advises. If a lot of head material had to be shaved, a thicker HG is in order.
@@MrSubaru1387 perhaps 2 OEM gaskets will do the job? if so would be the same torque
@@Marc-gm5cm no, don't double stack gaskets. It won't seal.
Love your videos! I’m in the process of rebuilding my 05 Impreza RS wagon. I’m replacing the head gaskets and was curious to know if there’s a check to tell if I need to go further and replace anything in the block. The pistons have very heavy carbon buildup. I bought the car wrecked so I’m not sure how it ran prior to now but it was running at least. Thanks for any help!
Without disassembling the short block, it's hard to say.
Is it worth tearing apart in your opinion?
Hard to say. It could be fine. Or, you could get it together and have a bad bearing and the engine knock. Then you'd have to tear it all back down again.
True. Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it.
finished first gasket, when installing cams i am getting movement after 89 in# torque however it is not buttery smooth as yours is?? i have disassembled to ensure enough lube is there however upon re assembly same deal..
+Eric Hall do you see any irregular wear on the cam journals? Or cam lobes?
just a bit of minor scoring nothing that seems irregular,
+Eric Hall hmm. It should move freely between contact with the lifters.
I had a question why the different torque setting between the center bolts and outer bolts? would that not warp the heads?
+Brian Skinner because that's the way the Subaru engineers said to do it. Lol
I was just curious. Just used to even torque on the cylinder heads on other engines
Awesome vid man we blew the gasket on our JDM forester turbo and used this as a guide. I'm just confused tho, somehow the torque specs seems kinda loose in comparison to other vehicles. I assume after the 90 turns it should be somewhere around 70ftlb but still feels like there should be more.
The two rounds of 90° makes them tighter than you'd think.
Awesome video yet again. I "may" have bolted my heads on with a little Lucas oil additive smeared on the block. How screwed am I? Also, another channel said not to re-use head bolts on 2005 and up Outbacks... any thoughts? Mine looked fine before I put them in.
I'm not sure what to tell you on the Lucas. The block should be clean from all fluids/materials. I've never had issue reusing head bolts. Just never do the initial stretch sequence when installing them.
MrSubaru1387 ok. Thank you!
You're welcome 👍
My project for tomorrow
Hi Mr Subaru have you ever had a problem with leaky valve cover seals? If so what did you do to resolve this problem?
Yes. You replace the gaskets.
@@MrSubaru1387 Well more clarification needed. you replaced the gasket (left one) but it continues to leak.
@@ejmagras I replaced it?
How do you clean the block surface?
Block to head mating surface? Carb/brake clean and a razor blade.
is this the same procedure for a 99 ej25 dohc? (outback) I am seeing a different torque procedure that is ...1. all to 25# 2. all to 51 3. 180 loosen 4. 180 loosen 5. 1 and 2 to 25# 6. 3-6 11# 7. tighten all 90 degrees 8. tighten all 90 degrees.....
Also, I am using mLs gaskets does this change the procedure? thanks for the advise...
+Eric Hall you use that procedure if you're using new head bolts. Technically, you're supposed to as it's a torque to yield, but if you reuse the OE head bolts you disregard the first tightening and loosening. That part is just to stretch the new bolts.
so then follow your video to the T?
if i am re using bolts that is...
+Eric Hall if you're reusing the OE head bolts, do it as in the video. If using new head bolts, do the full procedure you just commented.
thanks
Is there a video of head assembly ? Like cam, rockers and valves ? A link would be greatly appreciated.
2000 forester SOHC
Except for the dual cams this engine is very similar to the engine on my GL1200 Goldwing
the large 6 bolts for the head are they 14mm ( 1/2 inch) 12-point ?
what was the problem in that engine? I think it's a rod knock 😂
Yes, 14mm - 12 point.
I have tightened my head bolts, and it looks like the oil I used to lube the threads is seeping out of the headgasket. Is this normal?
No fluid should be seeping between the head, HG, and block.. Sure there wasn't oil on the face of the block or head?
MrSubaru1387 positive, the block head and Hg were 100% clean of anything. Looks like the assembly line of the head bolts made its way through the head and the block when I was torquing
Assembly lube, which is engine oil
Only 1-2 Subaru's per month and I'm sure you do many more then me because I work on every make and model. I'm sure you've also never had any problems SO FAR but it doesn't mean your technic isn't wrong.
I blow the oil out when I'm in the shop. This was in the garage, with no compressor. I know oil can cause hydraulic lock. I look in each hole prior to installing the head bolts..
👌👌👍👍
I have a 2008 subaru legacy 2.5i ej253. I have a little pool of oil sitting on top of my block. I changed the valve covers and the o rings thinking it was that. I still have the pool of oil sitting there. it's mainly on the left side behind the power steering pump. could it be the head?
+cito vazquez is it oil or redish like ATF? Could be a leaking power steering pump.
MrSubaru1387 no its oil. the pump went bad a few months ago so I replaced. but it's not power steering.
+cito vazquez is the oil pressure sensor leaking? It's on top of the block, center, under alternator.
I havent checked but, how do I get to it? It's a sensor?
Is it common on the ej253
Not that it matters a huge amount but are you upside down on the torque sequence?
It's right side up to me, so it would be backwards on the camera due to the positioning of it.
Just wanted to say this is a brilliant video and it helped out a ton! Thanks
Awesome. Glad to help. 👍🏻
Ok, so the little tabs on the HG do face away from the block..... about time I found that answer.
This work for 2007 or ir different
fantastic video ! this just a std non turbo engine 2ltr ?
This is an EJ25D. Naturally aspirated 2.5L DOHC.
Changing my cam seals today I had my ej20g all set perfect and went to put the drivers sprockets back on and they were all out of alignment. Moved them clockwise with crank lined up and they stop and can't figure out how to get them back lined up. Passenger was perfect still but drivers no dice. Stressing hard.
+Lance LaPrarie passenger side cams aren't under spring tension when aligned. The driver side cams are under spring tension and easily spin out of time. To pull the driver's intake cam in time, rotate it clockwise. To pull the driver's exhaust cam in time, rotate it counter clockwise. They stopped because the valves have contacted each other or the piston. Dont force it, or you will bend a valve.
MrSubaru1387 by force I'm not sure what you mean. I've got the pulleys near where they need to be but 1/5 turn in the directions noted in ur comment. Looking at intakes the valves are closed. Can I turn the intake clockwise first and then exhaust counter clockwise second? The way it feels I'll need a socket to move them the last 1/5 to line up. That's what I mean by your "force" note. Is it normal to need a wrench to get it that last bit? I got an H sprocket stay tool but can't use when they're off to change the seals. Anyway, absolutely love your videos and comments. Gave me the courage to try this task myself. Thanks!
When you remove the timing belt, the cams spun into a neutral position. In this position you can remove the cam pulleys, replace the cam seals, and then reinstall the cam pulleys. Once the cam pulleys are back on and torqued to spec, you have to rotate the cams back into proper time to reinstall the belt. The intake cam needs to be rotated clockwise and the exhaust cam needs to be rotated counter clockwise. You said you rotated them both clockwise, this will cause the valves to clash with each other and cause damage. Turn the exhaust cam back counter-clockwise and undo what you did. The intake cam should be aligned since you turned it clockwise to start. I can rotate the drivers cams into time by hand. If more force than by hand is required, you most likely are hitting the valves together. I can't post a photo on my reply, so just do a google image search for "EJ25 timing diagram" the 4th picture should be all you need. Hope this helps get you squared away.
I was able to get it close but a tooth off. This is a Jdm Sti motor so not sure if it has higher tension valve springs but it's extremely tough to do by hand. But with the company23 pulley wrench its butter easy. No feeling like it's hitting anything. Trouble I'm having is when I get the pulleys aligned the intake fits perfect on the belt but exhaust does not. I remove the H stay and get the exhaust aligned it's slightly off. I'm going to futz with it some more. Great learning experience for sure. Thanks for taking the time out to help. Keep up the good work.
+Lance LaPrarie hope you get it straighten out. 👍
Hello, I was fallowing your torque spec with the bolts but I got ahead of myself and made a mistake. When you said to do a 90 degree turn in sequence and then to do it again a 2nd time, I accidentally did a 180 degree sequence each time totaling to a compete rotation instead of half. I then noticed my mistake and loosened the bolts back to where they should have been if done correctly. I was wondering if this will hurt anything or if my correction will be ok?
Loosen them ans start over, you should be OK.
How many times can subaru head bolts can be used?
Hard to say. Depends on how many times they've been used already, condition of the bolt itself, i.e rust, corrosion, damaged threads, etc.
Not worth it. For such a critical part, why not just get new studs? they won't break the bank.
I'm doing a HG job now, and not knowing the history of the car, and given that this one has over 200k miles, I'll be replacing them. I did find two complete Subaru OEM sets for $55 total, so well worth it, IMHO. Now to have fun stretching them......
I was just curious. I'm used to other engines that have even torque across the cylinder heads. That's why I was asking
+Brian Skinner yea, I'm sure there's a logical reason. Just don't know it off the top of my head. Sorry.
No problem. Just seemed like the heads would rewarp
So no need to deck the block?
Usually, no. Be sure to check it with a straight edge and feeler gauge though.
I'm debating wether to pull my engine to do the work or just leave it in the car.
Way easier to pull it.
@@MrSubaru1387 It's under consideration. I would need to get a engine stand and a lift I'm running out of room in the garage LOL. So it might just have to stay in to do the work.
That digital snap on torque wrench gives me a stiffy
Haha 😂
Wish you would tall and explain what and why you're doing things the way you do them
I do things according the the factory service manual in nearly all my videos. I do talk on my newer videos though.
Are you a mechanic? Where/how did you learn how to work on engines?
I have my degree in Automotive Technologies and was technician for years, owning my own shop.
Do you like being a mechanic? is it hard on the body after working so many years and would you change careers if you had the chance etc? I'm just curious because I'm thinking about becoming a mechanic.
I'm not a full-time technician anymore. I closed my shop in late 2013. Day job I'm a Snap-on tool dealer. Been with Snap-on the last 4 years. Just work on the Subarus in my spare time now because I love them. Being a tech definitely takes its toll on your body. My dad was a tech his whole life. Ruined his knees, back, and two hernias, one of which took his life. It can be a rewarding career, and there are jobs available. Use your head and don't try to show off your strength, and you'll be far less likely to seriously injury yourself.
what effin purpose do the half moon caps serve?
They keep the oil in the engine...
Why not just aluminum there instead? Thanks for all your videos.
The section is missing for the machine tooling to line bore the cam journals into the head.
My EJ20 is making some _white_ smoke and I'm losing oil at rate of 1.5L/10k km. Coolant is fine. Smoke is white, not blue, so I'm likely getting fresh oil in exhaust. Can it be exhaust valve seal(s)? How hard is it to replace those? Remove radiator, belt, cam covers, cams, valve springs? How easy will it be to do in a car? Or should I better remove the engine? Sounds exhausting. The car has 100k km on the odo...
+elektrinis white smoke won't be oil. Oil smoke will be blue to black. White some is some mix or water or coolant. Have you checked coolant level in both the radiator and the reservoir?
+elektrinis white smoke won't be oil. Oil smoke will be blue to black. White some is some mix or water or coolant. Have you checked coolant level in both the radiator and the reservoir?
This is weird, but coolant is fine. I have replaced it recently, topped it up and did 10k km... Same level since. My 2L DOHC Impreza barely passed smog test, smells quite bad and this white smoke, which does not go away even when warmed up. There are no oil leaks anywhere, the engine is dry as new.
I had a similar, but much more severe issue with smart roadster, where it poured huge amounts of oil in to exhaust due to broken ring. Smoke was thick white...
I have replaced the engine and it actually still did that for 30minutes with new engine, until all oil burned off from exhaust.
+elektrinis I've seen EJs go 300k+ without valve seal issues, not to say it doesn't happen. I'd suspect the rings first. I'd start with a compression test and cylinder leakage test. Perhaps that can shed some light on the problem.
Will do that, thanks for your input.
Don't squirt oil down the thread holes! Asking for trouble doing that. Guess what happens when you hydrolock that hole with the head bolt you COULD crack the block. Best to just apply a small amount of oil to the threads and washers of the head bolts. MAKE SURE ALL HEAD BOLT HOLES ARE BLOWN OUT AND CLEAN!
That's why I bothered to roll the engine over and drain the oil from the holes... Never have I ever split or cracked a block doing this.
That was the reason he rotated the block over. To drain the excessive oil out to prevent what you described. I've seen several do it this way with no problems. It is only a problem if you forget to remove the excess.
I'm gonna take a guess and say head gasket replacement is not possible in the vehicle.
It is, but no sense in doing things the hard way. Only takes 35 mins to pull the engine.
That's for used head bolts..not new ones...this how Subaru mike does this,in Arizona..
Correct. I reused the old head bolts on this job. You skip the stretching sequence when reusing the head bolts.
Only up to a certain point though. Don't take someone else's advice as religion. If the bolts are stretched beyond it's operating limit, then it's time to get new ones, or used ones (within specs) if being frugal. There's a reason why it's called stretch bolts.
Hola Mr. Que marca y modelo exacto es ese torquimetro??
+Ariel Hamm Esto es para 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback con motor EJ25D.
Es un snapon
Snap-on ATECH3FR250B & ATECH2FR100B
3,4,5,6 25 LBS. ?????
FB20 Cylinder Head installation .......video coming soon
Gotta get my hands on an F series engine first. Lol
Not good practice! The bolt threads only need a few drops of oil they do not need to be saturated.
How many Subaru headgasket jobs do you average a week?
How would you suggest torquing down APR head studs ? What sequence?
Go by the supplied APR procedure. They including install instruction with the stud kit.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks brotha. I didnt open them yet. Figured I'd get a suggestion first lol
Yea, they have a special procedure and a special moly lube you put on the fasteners.
@@MrSubaru1387 This is all good information to know :) thanks again for your help. I am currently building right now. Whenever my engine is done and it runs great I will give you a shout out on Facebook
@@MrSubaru1387 you have an awesome channel That has wonderful information on it
I thought we were supposed to put in head studs dry? I did, and like that car runs. But no I am concerned.
The service info I've seen says to lube the threads and washers, but I'm not a Subaru tech. I've always heard to lube the head bolts to prevent popping while torquing them, popping would indicate uneven torque which is a death sentence for your head gasket in the long term. Just my two cents.
Head bolts are to be lubricated with fresh engine oil, per the Subaru factory service manual.
what's your email I have some questions about my 98 legacy GT
+Nicholas Moran MrSubaru1387@gmail.com
Awesome
I did this way without rewinding and broke a head stud
Did you use the old headbolts or new ones?
Thickok 45 yes I did, ultimate failure hahah, still haven't gotten the bolt out of my block, too damn lazy Hahahah