You are my Hero. Thanks for the video it saved me. The 15 amp fuse you mention in the video was blown and blew even after replacing the starter solenoid relay you also mention. The truck will start when one uses the "terminal post shorting " technique". Since you mentioned that the key start voltage is routed through the transmission sensor harness I checked there. Squirrels had eaten thorough the harness covering and insulation of the wires inside causing a short. I was able to re-insulate the bundle and all was well with my truck. Thanks
Bought the truck, it wouldn't start. Alarm system killed off the ignition switch. I used a test starter tool the past 2 years, wired to that relay. Finally, moving on to a correct solution. Thanks for posting a clean video.
This was most helpful, my 15amp fuse under the dash was blown. I used a new one and it went again. I pulled the solenoid wire and used a test light. Test light worked nicely with each turn of the switch. I have a new solenoid on the way, surprised that it failed short and not open. Cheers
Im late to the party. 11/16/24. 2001 F350 7.3 DUALLY My horn started honking, and my truck started cranking without keys in the ignition. While driving my starter was engaging and i lost all dash guages and radio. I checked all relays. I pulled fuse box under dash and removed large plug harnesses and cleaned with electronics cleaner. I was getting 12 volts at signal wire going to starter relay even with keys removed (i left this wire unplugged once i started my truck so i could use it) i watched this video, and low and behold...this neutral safety switch burned out. Thank you for showing us the cranking sequence. I am back in business.
Update comment. Thank you again. I had a 20 amp fuse in the position you showed. I could jump the solenoid and it cranked. Had full voltage all the way to the solenoid, with the wire off the solenoid, but only 8 volts when connected to the solenoid. The 20 amp fuse blew during testing. I replaced the solenoid. DONE!! Drawing too much current. Thank You.
Used the cheat of touching pliers to both those hex nuts on passenger side under hood to get my starter unlocked, thanks for the info. Saved me from having to buy a starter right away
From another video I looked at, the guy mentioned to look at the 30 amp fuse (the green one) which is the PCM Relay Coil. I replaced mine just in case. My problem has been where F250 randomly doesn't want to crank. Will just make a whirring noise when trying to crank. Replaced batteries, got new battery cables, alternator, thinking that fixed the problem, but had it appear again. Going to look at those other fuses as well to make sure they are good.
Could you possibly help tell me where a wire goes rats chewed on my 1999 triton v10 ? Email I can send photo to? I’d highly appreciate it and thank you for this video as well.
Thanks for the video. I have a question. On my 2001 7.3, the signal wire on the starter solenoid is constantly hot. I had to disconnect it because the truck would continuously crank...even with keys removed from ignition. Any idea what could cause this? Ive removed the ignition module under steering column...no luck. Ive removed fuses under dash, no luck. I did remove the big red 50 amp (or 30 amp) under hood and that killed the wire. I even removed the ignition switch and tried it again but still no luck.
Hi. So that part that was over there on the right side, is that a solenoid or a relay? And if I jump those two large posts and it starts, where it did not start otherwise, does that indicate that part is bad? Or is there more testing?
Hi . I followed the starter fuse and switch routing. . With the key ignition the engine does not crank nor does it start . If I jump the starter solenoid the engine will crank but will not start . If I leave the key ignition in the on position and jump the solenoid the engine will start . . Thanks
My 1999 f250 the wire going to the starter has power to it all the time even with the key off and out. I have replaced the started switch and neutral safety switch and it still has power to the tan and red wire on the solenoid. On further searching there is a starter interrupt relay, but information as location and replacement does not seem to be available. Any ideas on how this is possible would be great.
Hey mine keeps blowing that 15 amp fuse out of the blue it will start bypassing the relay but everytime you turn the key all the way to start it pops the fuse any ideas before I tear it apart.
I have a 1999 F350wpth 7.3eisel. It will not even try to fire off. The batteries are fine. I have replaced solenoid on the inner, the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch the 50 amp fuse is fine and 15 amp fuse is fine. I also have 12 volts coming through the fuse link going to the solenoid. I am lost as to what to do next. At first I could start it at the solenoid, but now I can't. Could you please tell ne what to do next. Because I am lost as what to do.
On the two wires that you say to touch to get her with out key on silenode what does it mean if it dont crank but if you touch the bottom big wire to the small wire on the silenode it cranks
bud i have changed everything multiple times. i will get 3-5 starts from my truck and then the starter will go right back to staying engaged. i have know idea on what to do?
I have a 2000 f350 and most of the time I have to use a screwdriver yo start it I check the fuses they good but there is a nock noise on the relay that is beside the fuse box under the hood
Also,...just a really good idea to completely replace the factory (+),.....especially the cable Ends! One would be surprised how corroded they can get or how small of a battery cable was actually used on these trucks from 1995-2004🥺
Opposite issue. I start my 1999 F250 SD and the starter keeps running. The bendix does not engage the fly wheel but the starter is running, after a few minutes the starter shuts off and the truck runs as normal. If you start the truck and drive a short distance and shut it off the starter keeps running - even with the key shut off and removed. The only way to shut off the starter is to remove the battery cable. I replaced both the solenoid on the fender and the starter switch on the base of the steering column. no change. When I attempt to start the truck with the starter running the bendix did not engage the fly wheel.
I have a 1997 Ford F-250 HD with a power stroke diesel. I took the batteries out and had them charged up but when I hook the first battery up (and I tried both of them), the truck tries to start without the key. What gives? I’ve had the truck for over 25 years and have less than 10,000 miles on it (I drove a semi for 28 years and barely used my pickup). I’m going to sell it when I get it running. Thanks for any help.
Thanks.ill check these fuses. I just put a new alternator, starter, and battery cables and i have no electrical power at all. From the positive passenger battery cable a small wire runs to the glow plug relay that then runs into the main wiring harness. Is this the main power feed to the truck?
Bro, you are the man. I keep having that little wire on the starter solenoid sending power randomly to starter. It grinds when the truck is on, it even trys starting when the truck is off and the keys are out. Does this sound like an ignition problem?
It certainly does sound like a failing ignition switch although its also likely that there could be some aftermarket accessory wired in that is intermittently powering that wire.. maybe a radio
@@LehewTech hi boss I too just replaced the ignition switch and the starter..all was good for about 3 weeks...then 15 amp fuse was blown just like you showed I replaced it..but can't find the 50 amp on my 2001 Ford excursion v10...so if I bypass the solenoid and it cranks then does that mean my starter solenoid is bad...i bought my ignition switch from AutoZone it could just be a cheap part..and yes my excursion was also sending signals it grinded the teeth of the starter while the keys were in my kids hand it made a loud noise for 5 minutes the loud noise was the starter grinding it's teeth against the fly wheel till it had no more teeth..changed 15 amp fuse it started only one time and now it won't start..it cannot be the 50 amp since it started once...so it has to be the solenoid right thanks...
I changed the starter, celenoid relay, ignition switch, lock cylynder, i checked the 50 amp fuse, 15 amp fuse. The starter sounds like it wants to work, meaning, the bendix engages but wont turn the motor. Thanks for uploading video.
Why would i have no power to anything when my key is turned on and both batteries are hot this happened after i had a solenoid burn up I checked the batteries cables and the fuseable link and i haven’t found any problems
Sounds like my problem too maybe. When I have key in ignition switch and it's turned to start, no lights in dash come on, but I can start the truck by jumping starter solenoid on the fender. Once it starts, the dash lights are on, interior lights on, but it will only run for about 10 seconds or so. Checking fuses today, switches and relays. Looks like there a lot of things to check.
Hey dude, I have a f-250 that does the same thing, just clicks with no turn over, changed the solenoid on the fender, the fuses are good, just ordered the transmission range sensor to see if that fixes it
@@crwnc1775 nahh i needed a new starter, but the transmission died when it broke the parking gear bolt and sent the shared through the outer casing causing it to leak, so got rid of the truck lol
@@seagull1326 gotcha, i just fixed mine today and it was a faulty neutral safety switch on my trans, swapped it out and it has started right up ever since
Currently having a problem with my 01 f250 5.4 It’s trying to start on its own , all you hear is the cranking but it doesn’t fully turn on, no key in the ignition .. and when I do start it you can hear the starter cranking til I take it off park... anyone have any ideas why this is
I'm having the exact problem when it rains . 99 5.4 250 superduty . Was wondering if you found a solution ? Doubting ignition switch as it's in the cab so far just on rain days. Any input would be appreciated.
Just went to AutoZone webthey have no starter solenoid...that is the name of the part...i have a new starter and ignition switch and 15amp fuse was blown but replaced it started once cut it off and it will not start at ALL
Mine will not shut off I have replaced the interior fuse box and gem and starter switch plus the key cylinder and all the relay fuses under the hood in the fuse box . I have to pull the relay fuse to turn it off but then I have two lights on the dash that stay on the battery and oil lights stay on
Great video. No techno dance noise. No bad attempt at stand up comedy. Your camera is in focus. Thank You.
You are my Hero. Thanks for the video it saved me. The 15 amp fuse you mention in the video was blown and blew even after replacing the starter solenoid relay you also mention. The truck will start when one uses the "terminal post shorting " technique". Since you mentioned that the key start voltage is routed through the transmission sensor harness I checked there. Squirrels had eaten thorough the harness covering and insulation of the wires inside causing a short. I was able to re-insulate the bundle and all was well with my truck. Thanks
Back in the day we used to go straight to the repair manual; now we go to UA-cam. The new required skill: keyword selection technique. Carry on amigo
Bought the truck, it wouldn't start. Alarm system killed off the ignition switch. I used a test starter tool the past 2 years, wired to that relay. Finally, moving on to a correct solution. Thanks for posting a clean video.
This was most helpful, my 15amp fuse under the dash was blown. I used a new one and it went again. I pulled the solenoid wire and used a test light. Test light worked nicely with each turn of the switch. I have a new solenoid on the way, surprised that it failed short and not open. Cheers
And that folks is how a vid is done
Thanks for this video. Exactly what youtube was intended for..I was able to help a family get their ride going so they could get out the cold.
Im late to the party. 11/16/24.
2001 F350 7.3 DUALLY
My horn started honking, and my truck started cranking without keys in the ignition. While driving my starter was engaging and i lost all dash guages and radio. I checked all relays. I pulled fuse box under dash and removed large plug harnesses and cleaned with electronics cleaner. I was getting 12 volts at signal wire going to starter relay even with keys removed (i left this wire unplugged once i started my truck so i could use it) i watched this video, and low and behold...this neutral safety switch burned out. Thank you for showing us the cranking sequence. I am back in business.
Most informative no nonsense video I've found so far for my no crank issue im having. Thanks.
I'm having the same thing on my 99 Ford 250
Having the cranking problem currently already changed mine starter. Believing the solenoid next.
Update comment. Thank you again. I had a 20 amp fuse in the position you showed. I could jump the solenoid and it cranked. Had full voltage all the way to the solenoid, with the wire off the solenoid, but only 8 volts when connected to the solenoid. The 20 amp fuse blew during testing. I replaced the solenoid. DONE!! Drawing too much current. Thank You.
Used the cheat of touching pliers to both those hex nuts on passenger side under hood to get my starter unlocked, thanks for the info. Saved me from having to buy a starter right away
From another video I looked at, the guy mentioned to look at the 30 amp fuse (the green one) which is the PCM Relay Coil. I replaced mine just in case. My problem has been where F250 randomly doesn't want to crank. Will just make a whirring noise when trying to crank. Replaced batteries, got new battery cables, alternator, thinking that fixed the problem, but had it appear again.
Going to look at those other fuses as well to make sure they are good.
Very helpful telling wiring colors!
Could you possibly help tell me where a wire goes rats chewed on my 1999 triton v10 ? Email I can send photo to? I’d highly appreciate it and thank you for this video as well.
Perfect, helped me verify new neutral safety switch died after a few days.
Some great info, thanks for posting!!!
Thanks for the video, actually help me to get my starter problem
This video is great! Well done sir!
WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU.
Thanks for the video. I have a question. On my 2001 7.3, the signal wire on the starter solenoid is constantly hot. I had to disconnect it because the truck would continuously crank...even with keys removed from ignition. Any idea what could cause this?
Ive removed the ignition module under steering column...no luck.
Ive removed fuses under dash, no luck. I did remove the big red 50 amp (or 30 amp) under hood and that killed the wire.
I even removed the ignition switch and tried it again but still no luck.
Very good and simple video. Thank you very much.
Hi. So that part that was over there on the right side, is that a solenoid or a relay? And if I jump those two large posts and it starts, where it did not start otherwise, does that indicate that part is bad? Or is there more testing?
Thank you so much, my front 50 amp fuse was completely missing. Truck fired right up
Hi .
I followed the starter fuse and switch routing. .
With the key ignition the engine does not crank nor does it start .
If I jump the starter solenoid the engine will crank but will not start .
If I leave the key ignition in the on position and jump the solenoid the engine will start . .
Thanks
My 1999 f250 the wire going to the starter has power to it all the time even with the key off and out. I have replaced the started switch and neutral safety switch and it still has power to the tan and red wire on the solenoid. On further searching there is a starter interrupt relay, but information as location and replacement does not seem to be available. Any ideas on how this is possible would be great.
What if your fuseable link wire is getting really hot when running? Is this cause for concern?
Hey mine keeps blowing that 15 amp fuse out of the blue it will start bypassing the relay but everytime you turn the key all the way to start it pops the fuse any ideas before I tear it apart.
I have a 1999 F350wpth 7.3eisel. It will not even try to fire off. The batteries are fine. I have replaced solenoid on the inner, the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch the 50 amp fuse is fine and 15 amp fuse is fine. I also have 12 volts coming through the fuse link going to the solenoid. I am lost as to what to do next. At first I could start it at the solenoid, but now I can't. Could you please tell ne what to do next. Because I am lost as what to do.
So the light green/purple is the power feed to the ignition switch?
On the two wires that you say to touch to get her with out key on silenode what does it mean if it dont crank but if you touch the bottom big wire to the small wire on the silenode it cranks
bud i have changed everything multiple times. i will get 3-5 starts from my truck and then the starter will go right back to staying engaged. i have know idea on what to do?
What if it doesn't crank in park or neutral
tyvm so helpful!👍
I have a 2000 f350 and most of the time I have to use a screwdriver yo start it I check the fuses they good but there is a nock noise on the relay that is beside the fuse box under the hood
Also,...just a really good idea to completely replace the factory (+),.....especially the cable Ends! One would be surprised how corroded they can get or how small of a battery cable was actually used on these trucks from 1995-2004🥺
I think that’s my issue the positive cable on my starter is extremely bent and exposed/corroded
Hey I got 250super duty 1999 and cluster lights are not working ....also courtesy exterior lights are not working too don't know what to do
Opposite issue. I start my 1999 F250 SD and the starter keeps running. The bendix does not engage the fly wheel but the starter is running, after a few minutes the starter shuts off and the truck runs as normal. If you start the truck and drive a short distance and shut it off the starter keeps running - even with the key shut off and removed. The only way to shut off the starter is to remove the battery cable. I replaced both the solenoid on the fender and the starter switch on the base of the steering column. no change. When I attempt to start the truck with the starter running the bendix did not engage the fly wheel.
Hey, can you tell me where the starter relay is please on a 99 at 5:50 or the starter relay module or whatever it’s called sorry I’m a girl
Good job bud
Hey man thanks for this, what if I have no power when I try to jump the solenoid in the engine bay?
When I turn the key I get no lights on the dash and it starts beeping. New batteries, they’re both good
what does it mean if you jump that solenoid and it doesn't even try to start...it barely sparks
I have a 1997 Ford F-250 HD with a power stroke diesel. I took the batteries out and had them charged up but when I hook the first battery up (and I tried both of them), the truck tries to start without the key. What gives? I’ve had the truck for over 25 years and have less than 10,000 miles on it (I drove a semi for 28 years and barely used my pickup). I’m going to sell it when I get it running. Thanks for any help.
is this for a crank no start scenario
Is there a starter relay module on a 99 Ford F550
My fuse box is making a clicking sound and is not turning on if you could tell me about that
Nice video
can the fusible link be replaced???
Thanks.ill check these fuses. I just put a new alternator, starter, and battery cables and i have no electrical power at all.
From the positive passenger battery cable a small wire runs to the glow plug relay that then runs into the main wiring harness. Is this the main power feed to the truck?
Did you fix it
Very good info
My starter solenoid has a constant power from the ignition with the key off and out?
Do you think this is the same for the 2000 f350
Thank you
Bro, you are the man. I keep having that little wire on the starter solenoid sending power randomly to starter. It grinds when the truck is on, it even trys starting when the truck is off and the keys are out. Does this sound like an ignition problem?
It certainly does sound like a failing ignition switch although its also likely that there could be some aftermarket accessory wired in that is intermittently powering that wire.. maybe a radio
@@LehewTech hi boss I too just replaced the ignition switch and the starter..all was good for about 3 weeks...then 15 amp fuse was blown just like you showed I replaced it..but can't find the 50 amp on my 2001 Ford excursion v10...so if I bypass the solenoid and it cranks then does that mean my starter solenoid is bad...i bought my ignition switch from AutoZone it could just be a cheap part..and yes my excursion was also sending signals it grinded the teeth of the starter while the keys were in my kids hand it made a loud noise for 5 minutes the loud noise was the starter grinding it's teeth against the fly wheel till it had no more teeth..changed 15 amp fuse it started only one time and now it won't start..it cannot be the 50 amp since it started once...so it has to be the solenoid right thanks...
So I crossed the silenoid and I'm only getting a single click...then basically shuts off my whole dash....idk...
Oh shitsame thing!!??
Looking for fusible link on 7.3 powerstroke motor its not in the same place as the video
I tried jumping it with key and now my truck won’t run at all please help
I changed the starter, celenoid relay, ignition switch, lock cylynder, i checked the 50 amp fuse, 15 amp fuse. The starter sounds like it wants to work, meaning, the bendix engages but wont turn the motor.
Thanks for uploading video.
Try glow plug relay
Why would i have no power to anything when my key is turned on and both batteries are hot this happened after i had a solenoid burn up I checked the batteries cables and the fuseable link and i haven’t found any problems
Sounds like my problem too maybe. When I have key in ignition switch and it's turned to start, no lights in dash come on, but I can start the truck by jumping starter solenoid on the fender. Once it starts, the dash lights are on, interior lights on, but it will only run for about 10 seconds or so.
Checking fuses today, switches and relays. Looks like there a lot of things to check.
Gracias brother, esto me ayudó muchísimo!! Thanks a lot!!!
Hey dude, I have a f-250 that does the same thing, just clicks with no turn over, changed the solenoid on the fender, the fuses are good, just ordered the transmission range sensor to see if that fixes it
1999 f-250 7.3 powerstroke
Did the trans range sensor fix it?? I’m having this issue on my 01 7.3
@@crwnc1775 nahh i needed a new starter, but the transmission died when it broke the parking gear bolt and sent the shared through the outer casing causing it to leak, so got rid of the truck lol
@@seagull1326 gotcha, i just fixed mine today and it was a faulty neutral safety switch on my trans, swapped it out and it has started right up ever since
Was it not cranking at all?
I have no power going to the little wire on solenoid
But what happens if my truck is starting on its own no key??? Unplugged ignition switch
Probably a start solenoid is stuck in the on position
Having same problem here regarding truck cranking by it self ,was wondering if you ever found a resolution. Any help would be appreciated.
Currently having a problem with my 01 f250 5.4 It’s trying to start on its own , all you hear is the cranking but it doesn’t fully turn on, no key in the ignition .. and when I do start it you can hear the starter cranking til I take it off park... anyone have any ideas why this is
faulty starter solenoid or ingnition switch, start testing wires as he outlined.
I'm having the exact problem when it rains . 99 5.4 250 superduty . Was wondering if you found a solution ? Doubting ignition switch as it's in the cab so far just on rain days. Any input would be appreciated.
@@echts your solution is the GEM module under the dash is getting wet when it rains. Had the same problem
Just went to AutoZone webthey have no starter solenoid...that is the name of the part...i have a new starter and ignition switch and 15amp fuse was blown but replaced it started once cut it off and it will not start at ALL
Mine will not shut off I have replaced the interior fuse box and gem and starter switch plus the key cylinder and all the relay fuses under the hood in the fuse box . I have to pull the relay fuse to turn it off but then I have two lights on the dash that stay on the battery and oil lights stay on
Did you figure this out? My starter stays on with the truck
No relay ?
I got no juice at the fuse