As a chimney sweeper the videos shown are all on new stoves , simply not the same when your dealing with stoves that have been used as sometimes the baffle gets warped leaving a very difficult job
Very helpful video but in a stove that has been used things are a little different: 1. Remove all ash from sides and back otherwise firebricks will not fit in place. 2. It doesn’t make clear that the lip at the back of the baffle plate fits in front of the rear firebrick, not on top. If you fit on top there are gaps between the top of the side firebricks and heat escapes. I initially refitted incorrectly and fire gave less heat as it escaped round sides and up flue.
Thanks to this video, we were able to dismantle our wood burner and just saved a small bird who managed to fall into the chimney... and came out the other end...Thank you!
Hi, I have a Morso 1440 but I like to replace the baffle plate with 1442 one which has tertiary air holes in it which improves the efficiency. Do you think this is doable?
What this video does not explain is that the bottom inch of the rear firebrick (and side bricks) is supported in place by the grate. They need a slight upward lift in order to free them. In the real world, with a stove that has actually been used, and full of fine ash, you will find it much easier to remove the firebricks if you first remove the grate. I could have saved damaging an expensive firebrick had the video explained this. Grate is all held in by gravity, only slightly tricky part is the circular grate, it needs to be re-located such that the pin on the grate-raking lever is engaged. Very simple in practice, sounds complicated to explain. Decent video but assumes a brand-new stove and is not precise enough...good try.
Great tutorial video, however I had to remove the bottom grate to enable the removal of the rear brick and same for returning the brick. I had a sweep to clean our chimney and instead of inserting his brushes into the flue from the bottom inspection plate he insisted on going through the fire into the flue. We have a massive stone inglenook fireplace with loads of room around the stove. Anyway he broke the rear brick in three. He put it back and I bought another brick online from Topstak Ltd. Anyway when I installed the new rear brick I noticed something was not right! It turned out that he had installed the baffle the wrong way round. This guy was registered with Sweep-safe. Just goes to show what an absolute load of rubbish that is! By the way the stove is a Clearview Vision 500 and was installed in 2019 with a new stainless flue and cowl. The flue connection is at the rear with the cleaning plate at the bottom. Thankfully it wasn’t installed by him 🙄
Hi, my quarter inch baffle plane keeps warping so i bent it flat again. Is it safe to weld another quarter inch steel plate on top or bottom to reinforce it? and should it be on top or bottom? thanks
Hello, I think I have a pioneer wood stove. I can not find any information on the stove at all. Could someone please contact me back . I need to get some parts for it. Thanks
Anyone replaced the baffle in a Hearthstone Homestead Model Wood Stove. I've done it but it never goes well. I hate to have to cut it. For me it weakens the baffle every time. Very difficult to "cement " the two halves together once in place. They seem to leave out this model on the videos probably because it's more involved.
slightly confused as on this model you can remove the baffle with out removing the firebricks, you can also remove the baffle on the larger 8kw model leaving the bricks in place, previously you could not but its been changed, its good practise to remove them to remove the fly ash and soot which falls behind them but I find it easier to do this after the baffle has been removed
As a chimney sweeper the videos shown are all on new stoves , simply not the same when your dealing with stoves that have been used as sometimes the baffle gets warped leaving a very difficult job
Very helpful video but in a stove that has been used things are a little different:
1. Remove all ash from sides and back otherwise firebricks will not fit in place.
2. It doesn’t make clear that the lip at the back of the baffle plate fits in front of the rear firebrick, not on top. If you fit on top there are gaps between the top of the side firebricks and heat escapes. I initially refitted incorrectly and fire gave less heat as it escaped round sides and up flue.
Thanks to this video, we were able to dismantle our wood burner and just saved a small bird who managed to fall into the chimney... and came out the other end...Thank you!
Hi, I have a Morso 1440 but I like to replace the baffle plate with 1442 one which has tertiary air holes in it which improves the efficiency. Do you think this is doable?
What this video does not explain is that the bottom inch of the rear firebrick (and side bricks) is supported in place by the grate. They need a slight upward lift in order to free them. In the real world, with a stove that has actually been used, and full of fine ash, you will find it much easier to remove the firebricks if you first remove the grate. I could have saved damaging an expensive firebrick had the video explained this.
Grate is all held in by gravity, only slightly tricky part is the circular grate, it needs to be re-located such that the pin on the grate-raking lever is engaged. Very simple in practice, sounds complicated to explain.
Decent video but assumes a brand-new stove and is not precise enough...good try.
This is not a used fire and the front dose not lift out like this one I have a full grate
Great tutorial video, however I had to remove the bottom grate to enable the removal of the rear brick and same for returning the brick.
I had a sweep to clean our chimney and instead of inserting his brushes into the flue from the bottom inspection plate he insisted on going through the fire into the flue. We have a massive stone inglenook fireplace with loads of room around the stove. Anyway he broke the rear brick in three. He put it back and I bought another brick online from Topstak Ltd. Anyway when I installed the new rear brick I noticed something was not right! It turned out that he had installed the baffle the wrong way round.
This guy was registered with Sweep-safe. Just goes to show what an absolute load of rubbish that is!
By the way the stove is a Clearview Vision 500 and was installed in 2019 with a new stainless flue and cowl. The flue connection is at the rear with the cleaning plate at the bottom.
Thankfully it wasn’t installed by him 🙄
Sorry but it’s baffled me😂
Hi, my quarter inch baffle plane keeps warping so i bent it flat again. Is it safe to weld another quarter inch steel plate on top or bottom to reinforce it? and should it be on top or bottom? thanks
How do you replace the riddling grate in a Morso 2130? It's the petal design. Thank you.
How do you put a baffle plate in a 2 door stove with smaller multiple bricks at the back?
Hello, I think I have a pioneer wood stove. I can not find any information on the stove at all. Could someone please contact me back . I need to get some parts for it. Thanks
I checked a lot of woodworking handbooks. Those from woodprix are the best.
Anyone replaced the baffle in a Hearthstone Homestead Model Wood Stove. I've done it but it never goes well. I hate to have to cut it. For me it weakens the baffle every time. Very difficult to "cement " the two halves together once in place. They seem to leave out this model on the videos probably because it's more involved.
Very Nice and to the point thanks
Can someone do this for me please
slightly confused as on this model you can remove the baffle with out removing the firebricks, you can also remove the baffle on the larger 8kw model leaving the bricks in place, previously you could not but its been changed, its good practise to remove them to remove the fly ash and soot which falls behind them but I find it easier to do this after the baffle has been removed
You’re not confused. You’re baffled😂
Do you know what that baffle plate made of ?
@12Radius ....Chocolate
Very honest and respectful customer service. Good product. Easy to put together.