Love to see the upcoming updates to HAMRS. People always say to use a different or multiple loggers but I simply don’t want to. I like HAMRS. It clean, it’s simple, it’s minimalistic, it’s aesthetically pleasing, it’s fast and responsive, and it does 90% of what I want in a logger (sync and adif import will bring that up to 99%). I frankly don’t like any of the other loggers on the market. They don’t feel right. Love to see all the hard work Jarrett has put into this project come to fruition. 73’s and I wish him the best!
I did the battery box thing in the car as well… Bought a new SUV. Didn’t want to run power cables and alter the wiring of a brand new car. But the main reason I did it this way was to avoid the Bull Shyt the dealers pull on you if you have a problem under warranty! One they find you altered the car in any way, your warranty is void… No radio gear is permanently mounted, no screws into any part of the vehicle, and mag mounted antennas… Battery lasts sometimes months at a time. And Anderson power poles make for a quick connect and a quick charge… Even run the rigs at the QTH on batteries. No AC line noise that way…. And already set for a power failure or worse…. Bioenno makes some really nice stuff, and so far it’s served me quite well.
As an automotive electrician I can definitely recommend using a separate battery. Most vehicles if you discharge the battery under 11.5V the car won't start and there's not enough V and A to crank it over. If you discharge it and somehow get it jump started, due to V going below 11V most modules will go offline and after restarting you'll have a bunch of warning lights on the dashboard which may not clear themselves and you'll need to have a mechanic to do that. Whilst driving, no problem knock yourself out. Stationary use another battery if going to be a while or heavy load
A quick note for the HAM wanting to run the IC706 mobile; If you do run a power cable direct to the cars battery be sure to use a relay that only energizes the radio when the ignition is in the “on” or “accessory” position. The IC706 is never completely “off”, because there is a continuous current drain to maintain the stability of the transmitter. Without a relay you will run the battery down to the point your car will not start if left for a few days without being run. Ask me how I know 😆! 73 de Dan WD4DB
Also, beware of leaving any Garmin GPS connected when the engine is off. The little bugger is parasitic and will complete drain your car battery after a few days!
@@N9XY Do you think anyone cares if you "unsubscribe"? And we know you won't. You're just saying that to post YOUR political belief without actually saying it.
I think VHF/UHF is a bit more tolerant with power sources, so cigarette lighter socket is fine. I’m lazily using a Baofeng HT with a roof antenna charged off a USB adapter. 😂 HF is something else, though. I like the idea of a battery box for extended outings. My GMRS radio (Wouxun KG1000G+) is off the car battery, and since that’s just when traveling, I don’t need it when idle. A battery box makes sense for HF radios if you’re doing POTA in the car, like with an ATAS. In Minnesota, it gets cold, so that option would be nice. No RFI using a battery box!
I'm so old-fashioned (and computer-befuddled) that I do all my POTA logging manually on the POTA site. And I power my 891 with a 30ah Bioenno battery that sits on the passenger seat of my truck (unless I'm set up on a picnic bench somewhere). Totally portable and temporary.
Some "experts" in the overlanding and auto sound industries claim that an alternator can safely output 50% of its rated capacity full time. For example, my 140-amp alternator can surge charge my starter battery immediately after starting the car, but has been fine with my DC-DC charger pulling as much as 50 amps, depending on the temperatures. Lately, with the colder temps, I'm seeing 50A being drawn; but I see 35-40A on hotter days. I'll let you know if anything catches fire! ;-) In short, I think 3A is VERY safe... even a 10A charger is probably okay in a 12V outlet, so long as the total drain of all of the other accessories plugged into the other outlets doesn't exceed the fuse rating (my 12V outlet factory fuse is 20A). 73! -Scott
My truck has a extra battery tray so I installed another battery under the hood and a relay so when the the ignition is on the batteries are connected and will charge when the ignition is off the batteries are disconnected. All accessories, radios, etc run off of the 2nd battery.
I connected a wire directly to my truck battery to a Solar Charge controller, then to a LifePo4, then to my radios. It let's me charge the radio battery at 10amps from the truck, and my radios are always on. I also have a relay controlled by the ignition so the truck battery is only charging when the key is on. It works well, but it doesn't fully charge the 100ah Lifepo battery.
For me, HAMRS is still missing two essential features: Being able to read the rig frequency via CAT, and accepting incoming logs from WSJT-X. I hate it when I'm in the middle of an activation, change bands, and then later on realize that I forgot to change the frequency in HAMRS manually. And I've found it to be a struggle to try to log FT8 contacts manually into HAMRS. For these reasons, I'm still suffering with Windows and N3FJP during activations, even tho everything else I do is done in Linux.
I'm adding on to the car battery topic my car is a 2018 nissan leaf so i'm not suppose to connect my radio's to it's under hood battery had the idea though so for my setup i have 2 batteries in my trunk my 100Ah for my 891 and my 15Ah bioeeno for my VHF UHF and i run both power cables from the passenger to my trunk and i use ferrite beads to hold the wires together original use was somehow my 100Ah battery kept turning off every time when i transmit on just 1 repeater frequency but that's the 2nd use so by doing that i can run my 891 and VHF UHF at the same time and if 1 dies i can just take the battery out of the trunk and charge it either trickle if i'll be at a location all day or quick charge with 200W solar panels sitting on a table if i'll be at a location for short time that's my setup
I have a similar setup to yours; I power my FTM-500 of the car socket and behind the seat I have my battery box (for My FT-710) that is getting topped off via a small inverter while I drive. Cheers 73 KD9ZNA
I appreciate the practicality of your posts. Thanks. One point of confusion on this one - You showed an FT-891 tucked under the passenger seat, but the 891 doesn't have a separate control head. How do you control that radio?
By disconnecting the removable control head of the 891 and mounting it on the Lido Mount as shown in this video. Then there's a control wire going from the control head to the body of the radio that is sitting under the passenger seat.
So, I just started using Hamrs this past weekend to log hunter contacts to QRZ and lotw. Seemed to have worked well, but I guess I need to use proper software for windows. Suggestions on what to use?
Great video, Mike! I've also never liked the idea of drawing from my car's battery for mobile use (for a variety of reasons). And nowadays we've got so many great battery options anyway. One question: Could you please provide a link or otherwise point us to the actual plastic boxes you use for your batteries? I didn't see any of these on your Amazon page. Cheers!
Harbor Freight my friend. That one is made with the Apache 3800 case. www.harborfreight.com/3800-weatherproof-protective-case-large-tan-56769.html I did a whole video on it. ua-cam.com/video/E2EzffOhysg/v-deo.html.
My radio is plugged into a power bank thats got an acc port built into it, the power bank is always plugged into one of the cars usb-c ports, so when the car is running its always being charged/topped up
Have to disagree with the 3amps being more than a car can handle. By default pickup trucks, by means of the 7 pin trailer connector, spit out 30amps to charge batteries on trailers. Cars are not much further behind.
For portable/mobile use I have two solar panels on my truck (also keeps things topped off if I don't drive it for a week or two). I also keep a good (charged) jump started in the truck as well. Lots of good ways to run radios in your rig. Thanks for the info Mike! KY4CKP
I don't think I'm quite at the "gluing solar panels to the roof of my car" phase yet, but that does sound really cool! I suppose that's what the luggage racks are for though...I wonder what their speed rating is?
I don't think having a web-based logger (not picking on HAMRS) would be practical - a lot of the POTA sites in my area, like all those 100s of PA State Game Lands, are out in the freakin' boonies and have no cell service. Also... thanks for "translating" the M&P website - the metric stuff really put me off, and made me stay away. I run my VHF/UHF radios directly to my truck battery, with inline fuses of course. I never tried having HF mobile because I use manual tuners and don't want to die. Most "cigarette lighters" in cars are on a 10 amp fuse, so from experience, I avoid using them for radio. ...although 10 amps * 13 volts DC = 130 watts, so party on Wayne.
Are we gonna be seeing EV car battery comparisons some day and an eventual K8MRD Tesla battery box for POTA? ... with two led lights on the box of course! Also, would it be TOO heavy for a SOTA?😂
Hyundai/Kia EVs can output 1,800 watts at 120 volts AC. It's pretty cool to have a 77 kWh power bank on wheels. It got us through a recent 36 hour power outage with plenty to spare. But I haven't tested how RF quiet it is.
@@keegan854 I gotta say my gasoline cars have been in my backup power when needed plan, The EV is like having one of those Tesla wall batteries I guess. Do you pump it into the house somehow or just run an extension cord?
Imperial standards, ALWAYS! Are you with the rebel alliance?? Just kidding, I have a few tape measures, and they are both imperial and metric, in order to do work with radio, and still work with the two standards in my world. As far as defunding the ATF, I say, abolish the ATF, and all the other unconstitutional agencies out there!
Love to see the upcoming updates to HAMRS. People always say to use a different or multiple loggers but I simply don’t want to. I like HAMRS. It clean, it’s simple, it’s minimalistic, it’s aesthetically pleasing, it’s fast and responsive, and it does 90% of what I want in a logger (sync and adif import will bring that up to 99%). I frankly don’t like any of the other loggers on the market. They don’t feel right. Love to see all the hard work Jarrett has put into this project come to fruition. 73’s and I wish him the best!
I did the battery box thing in the car as well…
Bought a new SUV. Didn’t want to run power cables and alter the wiring of a brand new car. But the main reason I did it this way was to avoid the Bull Shyt the dealers pull on you if you have a problem under warranty! One they find you altered the car in any way, your warranty is void…
No radio gear is permanently mounted, no screws into any part of the vehicle, and mag mounted antennas…
Battery lasts sometimes months at a time. And Anderson power poles make for a quick connect and a quick charge…
Even run the rigs at the QTH on batteries. No AC line noise that way…. And already set for a power failure or worse…. Bioenno makes some really nice stuff, and so far it’s served me quite well.
Defund the ATF????
You Sir, are my new Ham Hero!
T For Texas!
Great Job!
Thank You :)
Lol thank you! I just wish it could be done. Maybe in January.
@@hamradiotube condolences on the loss of your dog
@@sidrayne huh??
@@hamradiotube F troop are known for needlessly shooting dogs at homes they raid
As an automotive electrician I can definitely recommend using a separate battery. Most vehicles if you discharge the battery under 11.5V the car won't start and there's not enough V and A to crank it over. If you discharge it and somehow get it jump started, due to V going below 11V most modules will go offline and after restarting you'll have a bunch of warning lights on the dashboard which may not clear themselves and you'll need to have a mechanic to do that.
Whilst driving, no problem knock yourself out. Stationary use another battery if going to be a while or heavy load
A quick note for the HAM wanting to run the IC706 mobile; If you do run a power cable direct to the cars battery be sure to use a relay that only energizes the radio when the ignition is in the “on” or “accessory” position. The IC706 is never completely “off”, because there is a continuous current drain to maintain the stability of the transmitter. Without a relay you will run the battery down to the point your car will not start if left for a few days without being run. Ask me how I know 😆! 73 de Dan WD4DB
Also, beware of leaving any Garmin GPS connected when the engine is off. The little bugger is parasitic and will complete drain your car battery after a few days!
@@n4gix My son has a small Garmin that is running from an always on port. No problems so far, but winter is coming...
The shirt is spot on! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great minds think alike!
The shirt sucks and I have unsubscribed. Your political beliefs have no place in amateur radio. 73 de N9XY
@@N9XY That's ok. Your wife and her boyfriend subscribed in your absence.
It ain't an airport , no need to announce your departure .
Don't go away mad , just go away .
@@N9XY Do you think anyone cares if you "unsubscribe"? And we know you won't. You're just saying that to post YOUR political belief without actually saying it.
I think VHF/UHF is a bit more tolerant with power sources, so cigarette lighter socket is fine. I’m lazily using a Baofeng HT with a roof antenna charged off a USB adapter. 😂
HF is something else, though. I like the idea of a battery box for extended outings. My GMRS radio (Wouxun KG1000G+) is off the car battery, and since that’s just when traveling, I don’t need it when idle. A battery box makes sense for HF radios if you’re doing POTA in the car, like with an ATAS. In Minnesota, it gets cold, so that option would be nice. No RFI using a battery box!
I'm so old-fashioned (and computer-befuddled) that I do all my POTA logging manually on the POTA site. And I power my 891 with a 30ah Bioenno battery that sits on the passenger seat of my truck (unless I'm set up on a picnic bench somewhere). Totally portable and temporary.
Some "experts" in the overlanding and auto sound industries claim that an alternator can safely output 50% of its rated capacity full time. For example, my 140-amp alternator can surge charge my starter battery immediately after starting the car, but has been fine with my DC-DC charger pulling as much as 50 amps, depending on the temperatures. Lately, with the colder temps, I'm seeing 50A being drawn; but I see 35-40A on hotter days. I'll let you know if anything catches fire! ;-) In short, I think 3A is VERY safe... even a 10A charger is probably okay in a 12V outlet, so long as the total drain of all of the other accessories plugged into the other outlets doesn't exceed the fuse rating (my 12V outlet factory fuse is 20A). 73! -Scott
My truck has a extra battery tray so I installed another battery under the hood and a relay so when the the ignition is on the batteries are connected and will charge when the ignition is off the batteries are disconnected. All accessories, radios, etc run off of the 2nd battery.
I've been running my ftm-400 from the cigarette plug for 4 years with no problems at all.
I connected a wire directly to my truck battery to a Solar Charge controller, then to a LifePo4, then to my radios. It let's me charge the radio battery at 10amps from the truck, and my radios are always on. I also have a relay controlled by the ignition so the truck battery is only charging when the key is on. It works well, but it doesn't fully charge the 100ah Lifepo battery.
Amen on the shirt!
Does all M&P come with that sweet velcro? I wonder how many people cut it off and don't realize it's double sided velcro
For me, HAMRS is still missing two essential features: Being able to read the rig frequency via CAT, and accepting incoming logs from WSJT-X. I hate it when I'm in the middle of an activation, change bands, and then later on realize that I forgot to change the frequency in HAMRS manually. And I've found it to be a struggle to try to log FT8 contacts manually into HAMRS. For these reasons, I'm still suffering with Windows and N3FJP during activations, even tho everything else I do is done in Linux.
I'm adding on to the car battery topic my car is a 2018 nissan leaf so i'm not suppose to connect my radio's to it's under hood battery had the idea though so for my setup i have 2 batteries in my trunk my 100Ah for my 891 and my 15Ah bioeeno for my VHF UHF and i run both power cables from the passenger to my trunk and i use ferrite beads to hold the wires together original use was somehow my 100Ah battery kept turning off every time when i transmit on just 1 repeater frequency but that's the 2nd use so by doing that i can run my 891 and VHF UHF at the same time and if 1 dies i can just take the battery out of the trunk and charge it either trickle if i'll be at a location all day or quick charge with 200W solar panels sitting on a table if i'll be at a location for short time that's my setup
I have a similar setup to yours; I power my FTM-500 of the car socket and behind the seat I have my battery box (for My FT-710) that is getting topped off via a small inverter while I drive. Cheers 73 KD9ZNA
I appreciate the practicality of your posts. Thanks. One point of confusion on this one - You showed an FT-891 tucked under the passenger seat, but the 891 doesn't have a separate control head. How do you control that radio?
By disconnecting the removable control head of the 891 and mounting it on the Lido Mount as shown in this video. Then there's a control wire going from the control head to the body of the radio that is sitting under the passenger seat.
@@hamradiotube My apologies. That’s a trick I didn’t know the 891 could perform.
So, I just started using Hamrs this past weekend to log hunter contacts to QRZ and lotw. Seemed to have worked well, but I guess I need to use proper software for windows. Suggestions on what to use?
Great video, Mike! I've also never liked the idea of drawing from my car's battery for mobile use (for a variety of reasons). And nowadays we've got so many great battery options anyway. One question: Could you please provide a link or otherwise point us to the actual plastic boxes you use for your batteries? I didn't see any of these on your Amazon page. Cheers!
Harbor Freight my friend. That one is made with the Apache 3800 case. www.harborfreight.com/3800-weatherproof-protective-case-large-tan-56769.html I did a whole video on it. ua-cam.com/video/E2EzffOhysg/v-deo.html.
My radio is plugged into a power bank thats got an acc port built into it, the power bank is always plugged into one of the cars usb-c ports, so when the car is running its always being charged/topped up
I LIVE for your commentary style...... and I am not kidding!!!!! I love it!
Wow, thank you!
Love Messi & Paoloni!!!... replaced my 15 year old rg8 with Airborne 10.
yay the Ender 3 v2 gets some air time! 😃 Get klipper and a PEI bed sheet so you can go way faster! Tallica! 🤘
What are you making on the printer??
Have to disagree with the 3amps being more than a car can handle. By default pickup trucks, by means of the 7 pin trailer connector, spit out 30amps to charge batteries on trailers. Cars are not much further behind.
Great coax review. 👍 KK3R Houston, Tx
Interresting choice of content today, enjoyed the video. I do the same to power up my 891 in the car.
How did you enjoy the video? It doesn't premiere for 2 hours?
@@HamRadioN0CKL channel members may have early access.
Mike- did you build that battery box? Or buy it?
I built it. ua-cam.com/video/E2EzffOhysg/v-deo.html
We should start a YT Content Creators Messi & Paoloni drinking game.
Sounds fun!
How many years did it take t import adif files? That's what kept me from using it.
I've honestly never cared about importing adif files. Still don't, really. But, 3 years or so I think.
For portable/mobile use I have two solar panels on my truck (also keeps things topped off if I don't drive it for a week or two). I also keep a good (charged) jump started in the truck as well. Lots of good ways to run radios in your rig. Thanks for the info Mike! KY4CKP
I don't think I'm quite at the "gluing solar panels to the roof of my car" phase yet, but that does sound really cool! I suppose that's what the luggage racks are for though...I wonder what their speed rating is?
duh, 12v accessories off when the car is off, that explains my problem!!!! LOL KB2GCG another great video Mike.
🤣
MAN! I just figured out the .adi export, jared posted how to do it in a form post. Then import to qrz, THANK THE LORD
I have a 100 watt hour battery in the floorboard of my backseat and run the wires to the front
I don't think having a web-based logger (not picking on HAMRS) would be practical - a lot of the POTA sites in my area, like all those 100s of PA State Game Lands, are out in the freakin' boonies and have no cell service.
Also... thanks for "translating" the M&P website - the metric stuff really put me off, and made me stay away.
I run my VHF/UHF radios directly to my truck battery, with inline fuses of course. I never tried having HF mobile because I use manual tuners and don't want to die. Most "cigarette lighters" in cars are on a 10 amp fuse, so from experience, I avoid using them for radio. ...although 10 amps * 13 volts DC = 130 watts, so party on Wayne.
HAMRS isn't web based. Just the new development stuff. Once it's ready for release it will be an app just like the current one.
Go full screen makes it smaller on UA-cam video, what's up with that????
If only qrp with 20 Amp plug in would not drain that much would it
Great Shirt!
Don't tell me what to do.... 😂
We've already tried. We know getting you to show up on time consistently is out of the question 🤣
@@hamradiotube 😂😂😂😂
I love your T Shirt😅
Thank you very much!
Are we gonna be seeing EV car battery comparisons some day and an eventual K8MRD Tesla battery box for POTA? ... with two led lights on the box of course! Also, would it be TOO heavy for a SOTA?😂
Hmmm, how could I turn a Tesla into a battery box?? I'll have to work on that for the next Go Box Challenge.
Hyundai/Kia EVs can output 1,800 watts at 120 volts AC. It's pretty cool to have a 77 kWh power bank on wheels. It got us through a recent 36 hour power outage with plenty to spare. But I haven't tested how RF quiet it is.
@@keegan854 I gotta say my gasoline cars have been in my backup power when needed plan, The EV is like having one of those Tesla wall batteries I guess. Do you pump it into the house somehow or just run an extension cord?
I too am into metric, 9mm, 5.56mm, 7.62mm
Damn right!
10mm!
Is that Galaxy Gas?
I'm not sure what that is but it sounds cool! Does it add 6dB to my signal?
Draining that battery must really suck.
I know right? Imagine all the contacts I'd have to make? The horror :)
Your Car Floor is Way too Clean!
Hey, I don't like to live in filth.
Imperial standards, ALWAYS! Are you with the rebel alliance??
Just kidding, I have a few tape measures, and they are both imperial and metric, in order to do work with radio, and still work with the two standards in my world.
As far as defunding the ATF, I say, abolish the ATF, and all the other unconstitutional agencies out there!
Abolish the ATF and the NFA