That thing did great on the load test. Surprised the THD was so low. And able to hold steady with an overload speaks well of the company. Nice work as always, Jim.
Thanks Jon. I was just as surprised with the load test. Pretty good for a single cylinder engine. I have tested this engine before on other generators and they all delivered 8000 watts after a little tuning. Never tried an overload. Ideally all generators would have a larger engine then needed. Unfortunately most portable generators max out on hp at the rated load. The XP8000, XG8000 and XG10000 by generac are all very capable. It would suck though to try and service when the power goes out and you discover it won't start. Still a lot easier then the Honda EX5500 starter replacement I just did or the CASE 170B exhaust manifold you fought with.
@@jcondon1 Haha! Comparing a generator repair to that exhaust manifold made me lol. I would toss any generator off a cliff that required that much headache to fix! ;-)
The autopsy of the old solenoid was interesting. I have never seen how a solenoid actually works. Very informative. And the involvement of your son at 1:28:24 was OUTSTANDING.
What a great video. One not only learns how to repair, you also learn about the different machines on the market today and helps to make an informed decision on what machine to buy. Thanks James!
The company when they made this version were really not that bright to hide everything that one would need to do as maintenance. Your patience and calm manner are the reasons so many watch your entire vids 🎉❤⭐🥇
@@KensSmallEngineRepair should be outlawed by government. I wonder how many things end up in landfill because of simple faults that are difficult to repair ?😉😉
A lot goes there because the cost of repair is too high. This one would be twice the bill of an average generator just because of the non-serviceability factor. I am working on a Honda EX5500 now that makes the Generac XG and XP series look easy. It took 5 hours to swap out the starter motor. The OEM part was $300!
I've dealt with 2 different Generac generators (small inverter and large 17kW) built years apart that are both defective from the factory. The inverter generator would have cost more to repair than new and the larger generator repair (workaround) cost me about $100. I will never buy another Generac generator. I will not recommend a Generac to anyone I know. This video reinforces my disdain for Generac, their piss poor fabrication, and their piss poor design. I am a design engineer with many years experience...
Great job is always James! The Generac XP series was their top-of-the-line models when they were on the market. Well over $2k. This is a 5% or less THD rated machine. They marketed it as TruePower. The older 7K EXL Generac has the same exact governor issue. And like you the corrective action to stop the surging was to adjust the spring location on the governor arm to fix it. Appreciate all you do!!
🤫 We are not supposed to know this, but recently, James had a Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster with Zaphod Beeblebrox and had this third arm installed on his recommendation. You know how these things go 😊
Looks like some 'designer' got their hands on that one, creating an 'artistic' and 'unique' product. It must have had excessive production costs. Old school KISS principals are still the best guide to follow in this type of product. Old style automotive starter solenoids, used a ring of copper for the contactor, that would rotate a little each time to present a fresh surface for the connection.
For the pin on the float , I’ve seen on another site and they used a spring loaded centre punch on the pin and the stuck pin came right out , might be worth a try next time 2vintage channel
To put that bit of sheet metal on I would have pop riveted it on, then if it needs to come off any time in the future it is just a matter of drilling out the rivets.
I prefer the welded bit as rivets tend to wear out in vibration. Also, when you find a replacement side piece it can probably be put on top with no modification.
That generator looks like it's in a prison cell! Besides a difficult design to work on, the bars in front of the air box and recoil starter looks like an additional pain. That said, it's a beast!
GeeeEeeezus James. I'm 13:48 into this one, and I'm just pissed at this point. Generac seems to have gone waaaaaaaay out of their way to make a piece of junk. I have no doubt that you can fix it, but unless you dynamite it at the end I just can't watch.
To say that the design of construction is inane would be a compliment. The need to disassemble so much to access anything is IDIOTIC, unless it forces the owner to take it to a shop. I wonder if there is a reward to designers to see who makes the most ridiculous build process? Great job, as usual, showing and explaining your repair. Thanks for sharing.
A large number of older Toyota motor vehicle starter solenoids just require the replacement of these "studs" to enable the Toyota starter solenoid to work again.... they sell kits to enable DIY......
I did the same on a GM starter for a 75 Cadillac. The starter did work, but turned very slow. I took the solenoid apart, and where the positive cable bolts to the stud I just sanded it smooth put it back together and worked great. I later heard a lot of GM starters had that problem. Such a simple fix. I wonder how many got replaced when a simple fix would have been sufficient? Have a good day sir
From what I can see, Generac generators seem to be designed to defeat attempts to repair in mind. So many things could have been made easier, but are not. When you're drilling out a rivet and it spins, just tilt the drill and it will work.
I especially appreciate the failure analysis performed on the starter solenoid. I not only want to know how to repair things - I want to know exactly why they failed. Having a clear mental picture of what the internals of sealed units of any kind look like and how they function is absolutely priceless. The only other person I know who does this on a regular basis is Ivan from Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics. The only detail left unsaid which would have made that segment complete would have been an explanation of what happens on a molecular level to cause that issue. Something about electrons bleeding off or adding onto a surface or something. Can't remember exactly, but that's the actual root cause and is pretty standard for switching mechanisms that make and break contact. Someone who's an electrical engineer probably understands it and can explain much better than I. ;-)
Working on this exact model. We live on solar power and this is a backup for my Honda 8kw generator, which is working great. The last time I started the Generac the engine was working fine but there was no AC out. So because of that and not needing to use it for backup, it has been sitting for a long time with gas in the tank. After watching your videos I decided to clean up the generator and see why no volts. After having so much fun getting the tank off and getting to the carb to clean it up, I'm thinking this generator may need to find a new home.. At any rate, I fount that the generator capacitor measured 10uF and was supposed to be 47uF.... I have replaced it and hope that is the problem with AC generation.... once I get everything back together. Thanks so much for the video.
Hi James, I have the very same generator with the very same wheel problem. Can you provide the part number and the source of the replacement wheels you used. Thank You, Dean Great Video Again!
That laugh when you initially pulled on the handle and it didn't move... I've said it before: Add several tablespoons of table salt to the old fuel. Shake it up, let it settle, and pour most of the old gasoline off for re use. The moisture will separate itself cleanly from the gasoline and take all the water soluble gunk with it. Those soda bottles would be a good idea to use as your separatory funnel, because you can see where the garbage line is. The salt water and left behind gasoline will be a fraction of the volume and the recovered old gasoline is good to go, mixed with fresh fuel.
I've drilled out countless rivets over the years, made from brass, aluminum and stainless. In all cases the one method I've used if the rivet starts to spin in place is to rotate the drill handle in a circle so the drill bit is aiming to the side instead of straight down. Almost always that does the trick. Also, if you only need to remove a hollow rivet which has no solid center, using a countersink bit or a considerably larger bit allows just the outside rolled edge of the rivet to be removed, after which just use a drift to punch out the remainder. That way there is no way the rivet can get jammed onto a drill bit and spin.
The big box store generators are considered to be Disposable just like there lawn equipment. Yes that does in fact include the John Deere mowers especially there 100 series mowers. I actually don't mind those Honda clone engines. They are pretty darn reliable for what they cost. Getting parts for them after a few years can be a bit challenging but the older Honda engines are the same way parts wise.
The starter solenoid you took apart is readily available and used on many machines. Generac used them and Miller electric used them on some welders. I had a drawer full of new ones. Generac engineering of machines was by far the worst from a service or repair point of view. I worked on one RV generator that was so bad to disassemble and reassemble it was unbelievable.
The orange paint on that generator looks very much like Hemi Orange which is what Chrysler painted its hemi engines back in the day. I also think that taking the defective solenoid apart is good because even if it's not worth fixing, there is always something to be learned that could be of use at another time.
I like to think of it as Kubota/Echo orange. Also, it could be Genesee and Wyoming orange. Unfortunately, Generac and Husqvarna have tainted that orange a bit.
You can actually extend the length of a rivet gun with a thin tube. You just have to advance the handle maybe four times instead of the two times that are normal. I’ve used brake line, telescoping antenna sections and even butt connectors to extend the reach. Eventually I drilled out each hole size of insert and added a threaded hole to accept various lengths of appropriate tubing.
I lose my mind every time an engine that has not ran in years is started with the old air filter. When it isn’t even checked before running it is plain dumb. It can potentially suck in everything in the housing. Every single mechanic on YT does this. I’d flip the guard and handle on your grinder. It’s bound to get flung into your arm/torso the way you’re using it.
As a long time viewer in Germany without real experience when it comes to generators (almost nobody are using them over here even as an emergency backup) have a question about the load tests. You are testing with a pure resistive load only. Which actually isn’t the load a generator is connected to normally. It’s a mix of resistive, inductive and capacitive loads ( motors, kompressors, etc) Can those generators handle those loads in the same way to the max rated power of 8kW like in this case? Just wondering.. 😊🤷♂️
Good point. A resistive load is the best case scenario. Once you add in capacitance and inductive loads where the power factor is less then 1, you will not be able to get 8000 watts. Volts amps would be a better measure. Honda for a while listed their rating in volt amps, but eventually switched to watts as I think most people do not know the difference and have no way to measure that.
The fact that you have so many Generac machines on your channel must be concerning to consumers. What do you find more that brings them to your channel? Neglect, quality of the machine overall? And what machine do you find to be the least problematic?
Almost always neglect. Most brands are about the same as far as quality. A few stand out like Yamaha, Honda, Winco, NorthStar and Gen-Pro. The rest are all Honda clones likely made in the same factories. At least generac has good support and sells parts. Most companies that sell clones do not sell any parts.
Love the channel! I discovered it only about three or four days ago and I can’t stop watching!!! I know it’s not much, maybe buy a cheap Honda clone carb.
Always easy when something is "designed" by some snot nosed engineer... cut off and round off the corners from the Tank and it can be unbolted/removed a lot easier....!
👍👍🫵🪨 Great job getting it running one question there were two wires hanging down after you got done reconnecting the new solenoid solenoid the red one and black wire. What are they too?
Caution: I had one fail in a closed position on my boat's outboard engine. No fun when your on the water and the starter keeps turning. It turned out that this was a replacement part, someone installed a "cheap" version solenoid and there was no return spring installed in it. It probably saved them $30 by avoiding the OEM part.
Jim's failure analysis - PRICELESS! That is what makes this channel head and shoulders above any others covering these repairs. Jim not only lets us watch as he works, but he takes the time to explain and instruct and explore.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Definitely worth the time when you don't have much money. I do things like that. With idler pulleys on mowers, it's way cheaper to replace the bearing than the pulley.
@@bertgrau3934 Maybe. The plated copper on the contacts and on the bolt was there for a reason. It offers a small amount of corrosion protection. The exposed steel on the contact and the stud, post wire wheeling it, can now actively corrode. Tin electroplate would have been better if that were an intentionally serviceable solenoid. What James and his son did was great for a demonstration, but I'd be really reluctant to put that into a machine that has any exposure to the weather.
@@williamfoote2888 I understand what you're saying. With the starter, it didn't take all the plating off, just the burnt part. I agree on a lawn mower that might not be a good idea. That solenoid piece looked like solid copper. It could have been just plated. In that case, yes it could thin out the copper too much. Still in a pinch it could work for a while.
I believe in 1969, the Ford Mustang with a 427, you had to loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine to replace the spark plugs. I had seen a few where the owner drilled big holes in the fender wells to make it easier to replace spark plugs.
@@bertgrau3934 I had a 1979 Cutlass salon with a 455... I ran it with 2 loose plugs in the back for years. Couldn't tell with the CARB approved restrictor carburetor plate and the huge displacement. It went the same speed with the same torque in all conditions... With six or eight cylinders hitting
LOL... That generator is HEAVY. Sitting in the same spot, with no movement, and GRAVITY eventually wins. The tires that James put on there will eventually flat spot as well, but not as bad or as noticeably as the OEM's.
@1:21:07 Just curious...what are those two wires (red & black) with the ring connectors used for? . . @1:22:17 I love it when the Vice of Knowledge makes an appearance :)
They usually make solenoids with silver alloy pads but I guess when it’s a generator that’s started in a penny pinching mfr’s eyes once in a blue moon just cheap copper contacts is enough. Didn’t think it would survive the rivets tho. Enjoyed that repair.
Another excellent video, many thanks. If you are concerned about flammable fumes, have you considered keeping the air going inside the tank while you were using the other equipment (heat gun and sander). That way the flammable vapour is well diluted and the risk of ignition becomes minimal - just a thought.
Thank you, another excellent demonstration, your son already shows a goods abilities. Merci, encore une excellente démonstration, votre fils montre déjà beaucoup de capacité.
For that self-fabricated panel, what I'd have done rather than weld it would be to put in a few self-tappers top and bottom to keep it from vibrating. Since they wouldn't need to be load-bearing, I'd think that would work well enough. If I was worried about the vibration pulling the self-tappers out, then I'd have used small gauge bolts held in with nuts instead. That would have meant making fewer modifictions to the original frame, easier future disassembly if it was ever required, and allowing everything else to work the way it was originally intended to. But that's just me. Your method worked, so ...
To put it in simpler terms, a solenoid lets you switch higher current that would destroy conventional switches. Car starters draw 100 amps. It'd be impractical, (and dangerous) and impossible to switch that amount current with a conventional key switch. The low current side energizes a small coil (around 400 ohms) that creates a magnetic field that draws a metal plunger with contacts attached to it to make a connection to another set of contacts. These contacts are designed for high current. If you tried to do this with a conventional low current switch, it'd over heat quickly and could start a fire.
James: You have done us all a favor by demonstrating what a PIA the generator is to service. I personally would need to find a VERY cheap model in order to become an owner ! Cheers! from the windswept Prairies of Alberta.
One year I purchased back to back two generators from Generac. Both of them had hunting issues that the local warranty shop couldn’t fix. Both returned and got a more electronic sensing 10k one. All no charge in the end. Yes they had issues then James. Long story short. FYI they were factory tested! lol
That's a $2000 generator. It actually lists for about $2500, but they usually sell for around $2k. I would say it's definitely worth putting a couple hundred bucks towards fixing it. You definitely have to be careful about how much you invest. I'm sure you're well aware of that. I'm looking forward to watching what happens.
With the cost of some OEM part being as expensive as they are and me being an electronics technician, I've managed to disassemble and fix a window switch, turn signal blinker, and an air mixer for the cabin a/c / heater just by cleaning up contacts and reflowing solder. If you have the time, tools, and gumption, these parts can be fixed.
Don't know if you've tried this but when removing solder I just use a blast of compressed air to remove all the solder from the joint. Of course I'm wearing my safety glasses and by putting a small piece of card stock behind it I can stop the solder from getting anywhere I don't want it to go. Mainly use this method with braided wire but works equally well on solid wire helps eliminate cold solder joints when you go back together. I need one of those third arms to hand me parts and screws can you kindly list part #? Hehehe
James tengo una duda, yo tengo un generador eléctrico de 3000w, si un día se me daña el AVR ¿Puedo sustituirlo por un AVR de 4000w? ¿Se puede ajustar? desde Cuba saludos.
I am not really a doom and gloom guy but our disposable economy cannot last forever. There will be a time when a "tinker's damn" means that something gets fixed!
From buenos aires argentina,i want tank yo for your videos i dedicated a motorcycles mechanic,AND i do woks maintenance in generators after see your videos sorry for my bad english
That Generac line of generators are impressive would love to come across one in great shape for myself. I'm currently running an SVP 5000 I've had since almost new it does a great job, but now I'm considering an upgrade to an 8000 version. Great job on this one. The black paint on the tank doesn't look sus either.
Excellent as always, James. It was nice to see you include your son in the process. He will certainly be a much more capable man thanks to dad. Thank you!
1:35:50 to protect the plastic and still install a rivet, they make washers the size of your pop rivet, which when placed at the end will prevent the rivet from expanding into a soft mating surface.
As always another great video James. Btw, have you tried using "Dawn Platinum" in your ultrasonic? We tried it [dishes/workshop] and we noticed a difference re: greasy dishes/hands-just a thought.
That thing did great on the load test. Surprised the THD was so low. And able to hold steady with an overload speaks well of the company. Nice work as always, Jim.
Thanks Jon. I was just as surprised with the load test. Pretty good for a single cylinder engine. I have tested this engine before on other generators and they all delivered 8000 watts after a little tuning. Never tried an overload. Ideally all generators would have a larger engine then needed. Unfortunately most portable generators max out on hp at the rated load. The XP8000, XG8000 and XG10000 by generac are all very capable. It would suck though to try and service when the power goes out and you discover it won't start. Still a lot easier then the Honda EX5500 starter replacement I just did or the CASE 170B exhaust manifold you fought with.
@@jcondon1 Haha! Comparing a generator repair to that exhaust manifold made me lol. I would toss any generator off a cliff that required that much headache to fix! ;-)
I am proud of you for teaching your son. My father taught me how to do these things too. Have a blessed day.
3-in-1 today! Generator refurbish, starter solenoid rebuild lesson and Father and Son time! Perfect.
The autopsy of the old solenoid was interesting. I have never seen how a solenoid actually works. Very informative. And the involvement of your son at 1:28:24 was OUTSTANDING.
Yeah, I was screaming "fix that thing" and you did! Thank you!
A Dremel cut off wheel makes rivet removal a breeze! 👍
What a great video. One not only learns how to repair, you also learn about the different machines on the market today and helps to make an informed decision on what machine to buy. Thanks James!
The company when they made this version were really not that bright to hide everything that one would need to do as maintenance. Your patience and calm manner are the reasons so many watch your entire vids 🎉❤⭐🥇
Why do manufacturers make things difficult to service ?
We call it design for non-serviceability!
@@KensSmallEngineRepair should be outlawed by government. I wonder how many things end up in landfill because of simple faults that are difficult to repair ?😉😉
A lot goes there because the cost of repair is too high. This one would be twice the bill of an average generator just because of the non-serviceability factor. I am working on a Honda EX5500 now that makes the Generac XG and XP series look easy. It took 5 hours to swap out the starter motor. The OEM part was $300!
It just goes to show the disposable world we live in now. 50 years ago everything was built to be able to service fairly easily.
@@jcondon1 Wow!! I guess somehow making things easy to service also makes it expensive to build. Follow the money.
I've dealt with 2 different Generac generators (small inverter and large 17kW) built years apart that are both defective from the factory. The inverter generator would have cost more to repair than new and the larger generator repair (workaround) cost me about $100. I will never buy another Generac generator. I will not recommend a Generac to anyone I know. This video reinforces my disdain for Generac, their piss poor fabrication, and their piss poor design. I am a design engineer with many years experience...
But, on the plus side, this one had a pretty low THD!
2 hours, looks like a 2 coffee video this week!
Great job is always James! The Generac XP series was their top-of-the-line models when they were on the market. Well over $2k. This is a 5% or less THD rated machine. They marketed it as TruePower.
The older 7K EXL Generac has the same exact governor issue. And like you the corrective action to stop the surging was to adjust the spring location on the governor arm to fix it.
Appreciate all you do!!
1:33:06
I need to develop a third arm to help my reassembly skills......
🙃
Zaphod Beeblebrox did this successfully.
It is only helpful IF all three hands understand what is going on... ask me how I know
Hey, James! At 1:41:53 (and elsewhere), what are the two unconnected wires hanging down on the right side?
I was going to ask the same question.
They are probably leads from the 12 volt charging coil behind the flywheel.
@@s.koerner6486 You're probably right. I wonder why he didn't connect them? Did I miss something in the video?
@Tom-In-Ga the person that was working on it before, probably removed the leads in an attempt to troubleshoot the starter issue...
Just a guess.
1:35:38 Wait a minute! BUSTED, you got 3 hands! that's why everything goes so well when you work! :) Great video James!
🤫 We are not supposed to know this, but recently, James had a Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster with Zaphod Beeblebrox and had this third arm installed on his recommendation. You know how these things go 😊
James is a handy man. 😉😏
@@Plons0Nardah. Someone else that's gotten hooked on the sci-fi stories.
@@brianmcaskill6215 👍🏻🤝🏻
Looks like some 'designer' got their hands on that one, creating an 'artistic' and 'unique' product. It must have had excessive production costs. Old school KISS principals are still the best guide to follow in this type of product. Old style automotive starter solenoids, used a ring of copper for the contactor, that would rotate a little each time to present a fresh surface for the connection.
KISS was imprinted in my mind.
Woke up for work and this is what I see! Happy Thursday y'all!
For the pin on the float , I’ve seen on another site and they used a spring loaded centre punch on the pin and the stuck pin came right out , might be worth a try next time
2vintage channel
I saw the same. Will try it next time.
Ha, I saw the same video and was going to say something too.
Plus, on any pin/rod, if you can’t twist it, you can’t pull it.
To put that bit of sheet metal on I would have pop riveted it on, then if it needs to come off any time in the future it is just a matter of drilling out the rivets.
That would have been easier
I prefer the welded bit as rivets tend to wear out in vibration. Also, when you find a replacement side piece it can probably be put on top with no modification.
Remember you already used parts off of it for the other XP.,or XG 8000 generac generator brands engine's.
Guys unbelievable video. Great great great I love this channel ❤️❤️❤️
Good quality components with so-so quality control letting them out the door it seems. Good video.
3 hands is batter than 2
the amazon fuel valves leak. the real B&S ones don't seem to leak and last longer. my 2 cents
Hope that guy takes care of his new generator better then this one!
That generator looks like it's in a prison cell! Besides a difficult design to work on, the bars in front of the air box and recoil starter looks like an additional pain. That said, it's a beast!
GeeeEeeezus James. I'm 13:48 into this one, and I'm just pissed at this point. Generac seems to have gone waaaaaaaay out of their way to make a piece of junk. I have no doubt that you can fix it, but unless you dynamite it at the end I just can't watch.
Courage mon ami, courage....
Nil bastardo carborundum....
Don't let the ba...rds grind you down.
.. wow, i'm Exhausted .. 🙄😫
Use a spring loaded centre punch for the float pin.....2Vintage channel....as I remember was the Guy.
Yes that is where I saw it just recently
👌👌👍👍 Well done! Thanks for the video.
To say that the design of construction is inane would be a compliment.
The need to disassemble so much to access anything is IDIOTIC, unless it forces the owner to take it to a shop.
I wonder if there is a reward to designers to see who makes the most ridiculous build process?
Great job, as usual, showing and explaining your repair.
Thanks for sharing.
Auto designers are right in the midst of that competition.
Fuel looks like orange koolaid!
A large number of older Toyota motor vehicle starter solenoids just require the replacement of these "studs" to enable the Toyota starter solenoid to work again....
they sell kits to enable DIY......
I did the same on a GM starter for a 75 Cadillac. The starter did work, but turned very slow. I took the solenoid apart, and where the positive cable bolts to the stud I just sanded it smooth put it back together and worked great. I later heard a lot of GM starters had that problem. Such a simple fix. I wonder how many got replaced when a simple fix would have been sufficient? Have a good day sir
From what I can see, Generac generators seem to be designed to defeat attempts to repair in mind. So many things could have been made easier, but are not.
When you're drilling out a rivet and it spins, just tilt the drill and it will work.
I needed an excuse to practice welding.
Thanks!
I especially appreciate the failure analysis performed on the starter solenoid. I not only want to know how to repair things - I want to know exactly why they failed. Having a clear mental picture of what the internals of sealed units of any kind look like and how they function is absolutely priceless. The only other person I know who does this on a regular basis is Ivan from Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics.
The only detail left unsaid which would have made that segment complete would have been an explanation of what happens on a molecular level to cause that issue. Something about electrons bleeding off or adding onto a surface or something. Can't remember exactly, but that's the actual root cause and is pretty standard for switching mechanisms that make and break contact. Someone who's an electrical engineer probably understands it and can explain much better than I. ;-)
Working on this exact model. We live on solar power and this is a backup for my Honda 8kw generator, which is working great. The last time I started the Generac the engine was working fine but there was no AC out. So because of that and not needing to use it for backup, it has been sitting for a long time with gas in the tank. After watching your videos I decided to clean up the generator and see why no volts. After having so much fun getting the tank off and getting to the carb to clean it up, I'm thinking this generator may need to find a new home..
At any rate, I fount that the generator capacitor measured 10uF and was supposed to be 47uF.... I have replaced it and hope that is the problem with AC generation.... once I get everything back together.
Thanks so much for the video.
As always a Master Class! I loved the Solenoid part!!! Thanks. Saludos from Mexico 🇲🇽
Hi James, I have the very same generator with the very same wheel problem. Can you provide the part number and the source of the replacement wheels you used.
Thank You, Dean Great Video Again!
That laugh when you initially pulled on the handle and it didn't move...
I've said it before: Add several tablespoons of table salt to the old fuel. Shake it up, let it settle, and pour most of the old gasoline off for re use. The moisture will separate itself cleanly from the gasoline and take all the water soluble gunk with it. Those soda bottles would be a good idea to use as your separatory funnel, because you can see where the garbage line is.
The salt water and left behind gasoline will be a fraction of the volume and the recovered old gasoline is good to go, mixed with fresh fuel.
I've drilled out countless rivets over the years, made from brass, aluminum and stainless. In all cases the one method I've used if the rivet starts to spin in place is to rotate the drill handle in a circle so the drill bit is aiming to the side instead of straight down. Almost always that does the trick.
Also, if you only need to remove a hollow rivet which has no solid center, using a countersink bit or a considerably larger bit allows just the outside rolled edge of the rivet to be removed, after which just use a drift to punch out the remainder. That way there is no way the rivet can get jammed onto a drill bit and spin.
The big box store generators are considered to be Disposable just like there lawn equipment. Yes that does in fact include the John Deere mowers especially there 100 series mowers. I actually don't mind those Honda clone engines. They are pretty darn reliable for what they cost. Getting parts for them after a few years can be a bit challenging but the older Honda engines are the same way parts wise.
I always stay thru the outro just to hear your Doggo bark😂
You should make a short with him/her - so funny!!!!
I wouldn't take much to build a fixture supporting the float arms for pin removal. For you, this wouldn't be a one use tool.
The starter solenoid you took apart is readily available and used on many machines. Generac used them and Miller electric used them on some welders. I had a drawer full of new ones. Generac engineering of machines was by far the worst from a service or repair point of view. I worked on one RV generator that was so bad to disassemble and reassemble it was unbelievable.
Generac should hire James to layout their generators better for better service.
The orange paint on that generator looks very much like Hemi Orange which is what Chrysler painted its hemi engines back in the day. I also think that taking the defective solenoid apart is good because even if it's not worth fixing, there is always something to be learned that could be of use at another time.
I like to think of it as Kubota/Echo orange. Also, it could be Genesee and Wyoming orange. Unfortunately, Generac and Husqvarna have tainted that orange a bit.
@@WJCTechyman That'll work too.
You can actually extend the length of a rivet gun with a thin tube. You just have to advance the handle maybe four times instead of the two times that are normal. I’ve used brake line, telescoping antenna sections and even butt connectors to extend the reach. Eventually I drilled out each hole size of insert and added a threaded hole to accept various lengths of appropriate tubing.
Great suggestion.
@@robertheim352 Why thank you. Works so well for me!
I lose my mind every time an engine that has not ran in years is started with the old air filter. When it isn’t even checked before running it is plain dumb. It can potentially suck in everything in the housing. Every single mechanic on YT does this.
I’d flip the guard and handle on your grinder. It’s bound to get flung into your arm/torso the way you’re using it.
Wish you had shown us the spark plug condition James
For an industrial generator, there is way too much plastic on that.
It’s a shame that someone spent a lot of money on that generator and then didn’t take care of it.
The best photographer on UA-cam bar nun 😊😊😊
a big like, for the owner of the extra pair of hands!
it's always better having three hands, Lol
Another happy Thursday 😅
Wow looks brand new
As a long time viewer in Germany without real experience when it comes to generators (almost nobody are using them over here even as an emergency backup) have a question about the load tests. You are testing with a pure resistive load only. Which actually isn’t the load a generator is connected to normally. It’s a mix of resistive, inductive and capacitive loads ( motors, kompressors, etc) Can those generators handle those loads in the same way to the max rated power of 8kW like in this case? Just wondering.. 😊🤷♂️
Good point. A resistive load is the best case scenario. Once you add in capacitance and inductive loads where the power factor is less then 1, you will not be able to get 8000 watts. Volts amps would be a better measure. Honda for a while listed their rating in volt amps, but eventually switched to watts as I think most people do not know the difference and have no way to measure that.
The fact that you have so many Generac machines on your channel must be concerning to consumers. What do you find more that brings them to your channel? Neglect, quality of the machine overall? And what machine do you find to be the least problematic?
Almost always neglect. Most brands are about the same as far as quality. A few stand out like Yamaha, Honda, Winco, NorthStar and Gen-Pro. The rest are all Honda clones likely made in the same factories. At least generac has good support and sells parts. Most companies that sell clones do not sell any parts.
Love the channel! I discovered it only about three or four days ago and I can’t stop watching!!! I know it’s not much, maybe buy a cheap Honda clone carb.
Thanks!
Always easy when something is "designed" by some snot nosed engineer... cut off and round off the corners from the Tank and it can be unbolted/removed a lot easier....!
I would cut the annoying crosspipe in front of the airbox and pull start off and relocate/mount the battery away from the tank....
👍👍🫵🪨 Great job getting it running one question there were two wires hanging down after you got done reconnecting the new solenoid solenoid the red one and black wire. What are they too?
I was wondering the same. I see that on the xg8000 and xp8000 models. Maybe for an external charger?
I thought you don't like the XP/XG8000E much, because it's so inaccessible?
Not fun to work on, but the generator performs better then most.
Looks nice.
James, James;.... $ 12 for a new solenoid , ...$ 25 repair time plus parts for the failed one...
Caution: I had one fail in a closed position on my boat's outboard engine. No fun when your on the water and the starter keeps turning. It turned out that this was a replacement part, someone installed a "cheap" version solenoid and there was no return spring installed in it. It probably saved them $30 by avoiding the OEM part.
Jim's failure analysis - PRICELESS! That is what makes this channel head and shoulders above any others covering these repairs. Jim not only lets us watch as he works, but he takes the time to explain and instruct and explore.
@@Rein_Ciarfella
Definitely worth the time when you don't have much money. I do things like that. With idler pulleys on mowers, it's way cheaper to replace the bearing than the pulley.
@@bertgrau3934 Maybe. The plated copper on the contacts and on the bolt was there for a reason. It offers a small amount of corrosion protection. The exposed steel on the contact and the stud, post wire wheeling it, can now actively corrode. Tin electroplate would have been better if that were an intentionally serviceable solenoid.
What James and his son did was great for a demonstration, but I'd be really reluctant to put that into a machine that has any exposure to the weather.
@@williamfoote2888
I understand what you're saying. With the starter, it didn't take all the plating off, just the burnt part. I agree on a lawn mower that might not be a good idea. That solenoid piece looked like solid copper. It could have been just plated. In that case, yes it could thin out the copper too much. Still in a pinch it could work for a while.
Great video, what do use for solution in cleaning your carbs?
Simple green and simple green pro hd.
Good morning sir you need to turn up your welder up
Yes
Step 01) Remove Engine from Car
Step 02) Change Sparkplugs
I believe in 1969, the Ford Mustang with a 427, you had to loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine to replace the spark plugs. I had seen a few where the owner drilled big holes in the fender wells to make it easier to replace spark plugs.
@@bertgrau3934 I had a 1979 Cutlass salon with a 455... I ran it with 2 loose plugs in the back for years.
Couldn't tell with the CARB approved restrictor carburetor plate and the huge displacement. It went the same speed with the same torque in all conditions... With six or eight cylinders hitting
May I suggest a better welder? When you were doing the plug welds, I noticed the wire speed was way too slow. You can hear it. Love your work!!
Thank you for showing me what kind of generator NOT to buy! LOL!
Talk about user UNFRIENDLY!?
James your cup up there is cracked
I have more.
Great video, i now understand the governor setup much better. What on earth caused the tires to have flat spots?
Cannot say for sure. A lot of times water get in there and freezes in the winter. That might degrade the foam.
LOL... That generator is HEAVY. Sitting in the same spot, with no movement, and GRAVITY eventually wins. The tires that James put on there will eventually flat spot as well, but not as bad or as noticeably as the OEM's.
here we go again what happened again
What seems to happen to every home user generator that isn't serviced and run regularly?
use a tight-fitting washer on the back when riveting into plastic, and the rivet will pull on that instead of expanding through the plastic.
@1:21:07 Just curious...what are those two wires (red & black) with the ring connectors used for?
.
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@1:22:17 I love it when the Vice of Knowledge makes an appearance :)
They usually make solenoids with silver alloy pads but I guess when it’s a generator that’s started in a penny pinching mfr’s eyes once in a blue moon just cheap copper contacts is enough. Didn’t think it would survive the rivets tho. Enjoyed that repair.
Another excellent video, many thanks. If you are concerned about flammable fumes, have you considered keeping the air going inside the tank while you were using the other equipment (heat gun and sander). That way the flammable vapour is well diluted and the risk of ignition becomes minimal - just a thought.
Thank you, another excellent demonstration, your son already shows a goods abilities.
Merci, encore une excellente démonstration, votre fils montre déjà beaucoup de capacité.
Re directional fuel valve, only one hole has to become tightly closed and that's the one coming from the supply.
Next time glue the sheet metal to the bracket using a polyurethane adhesive.(windshield glue). Easier than welding and stops the rattle
I think you just sold me on the model generator I'd get, great job always enjoy your videos.
I've never seen ANYONE spray paint wiithout releasing the trigger. I guess it works for you, James. Thanks for the video.
For that self-fabricated panel, what I'd have done rather than weld it would be to put in a few self-tappers top and bottom to keep it from vibrating. Since they wouldn't need to be load-bearing, I'd think that would work well enough. If I was worried about the vibration pulling the self-tappers out, then I'd have used small gauge bolts held in with nuts instead.
That would have meant making fewer modifictions to the original frame, easier future disassembly if it was ever required, and allowing everything else to work the way it was originally intended to.
But that's just me. Your method worked, so ...
To put it in simpler terms, a solenoid lets you switch higher current that would destroy conventional switches. Car starters draw 100 amps. It'd be impractical, (and dangerous) and impossible to switch that amount current with a conventional key switch.
The low current side energizes a small coil (around 400 ohms) that creates a magnetic field that draws a metal plunger with contacts attached to it to make a connection to another set of contacts. These contacts are designed for high current.
If you tried to do this with a conventional low current switch, it'd over heat quickly and could start a fire.
James: You have done us all a favor by demonstrating what a PIA the generator is to service.
I personally would need to find a VERY cheap model in order to become an owner ! Cheers! from the windswept Prairies of Alberta.
One year I purchased back to back two generators from Generac. Both of them had hunting issues that the local warranty shop couldn’t fix. Both returned and got a more electronic sensing 10k one. All no charge in the end. Yes they had issues then James. Long story short. FYI they were factory tested! lol
Very nice find James, great troubleshooting 🐈🐕 and kudos to Son of James for his Input 😊
Came for the video, stayed for the backfiring engine and bark outro! Jim, you’re the best! 😂🔧👍🐕
That's a $2000 generator. It actually lists for about $2500, but they usually sell for around $2k. I would say it's definitely worth putting a couple hundred bucks towards fixing it. You definitely have to be careful about how much you invest. I'm sure you're well aware of that. I'm looking forward to watching what happens.
With the cost of some OEM part being as expensive as they are and me being an electronics technician, I've managed to disassemble and fix a window switch, turn signal blinker, and an air mixer for the cabin a/c / heater just by cleaning up contacts and reflowing solder. If you have the time, tools, and gumption, these parts can be fixed.
Don't know if you've tried this but when removing solder I just use a blast of compressed air to remove all the solder from the joint. Of course I'm wearing my safety glasses and by putting a small piece of card stock behind it I can stop the solder from getting anywhere I don't want it to go. Mainly use this method with braided wire but works equally well on solid wire helps eliminate cold solder joints when you go back together.
I need one of those third arms to hand me parts and screws can you kindly list part #?
Hehehe
Or just buy a solder-sucker tool.
@@barrygrant2907 they work well but not as well as 100 psi pulse.
Use what you have instead of buying something else that is inferior.
@@larrrs3 They don't blow hot solder all over the place.
@@barrygrant2907 I use a solder suckers in a clean room environment but I use an air compressor in a garage when working on power equipment.
Great video, thanks! Look forward to these each week. Always fantastic workmanship and attention to detail. Quality job!
James tengo una duda, yo tengo un generador eléctrico de 3000w, si un día se me daña el AVR ¿Puedo sustituirlo por un AVR de 4000w? ¿Se puede ajustar? desde Cuba saludos.
Looks like yet another Generac designed by a committee
I am not really a doom and gloom guy but our disposable economy cannot last forever. There will be a time when a "tinker's damn" means that something gets fixed!
From buenos aires argentina,i want tank yo for your videos i dedicated a motorcycles mechanic,AND i do woks maintenance in generators after see your videos sorry for my bad english
That Generac line of generators are impressive would love to come across one in great shape for myself. I'm currently running an SVP 5000 I've had since almost new it does a great job, but now I'm considering an upgrade to an 8000 version. Great job on this one. The black paint on the tank doesn't look sus either.
Excellent as always, James. It was nice to see you include your son in the process. He will certainly be a much more capable man thanks to dad. Thank you!
Nice job. I guess you hooked up the battery charging connections later.
1:35:50 to protect the plastic and still install a rivet, they make washers the size of your pop rivet, which when placed at the end will prevent the rivet from expanding into a soft mating surface.
As always another great video James. Btw, have you tried using "Dawn Platinum" in your ultrasonic?
We tried it [dishes/workshop] and we noticed a difference re: greasy dishes/hands-just a thought.
Thats an impressive machine, once you worked your magic