I dont comment on youtube vids ever. But I felt compelled to thank you for this series and the Arcade cabinet series. The way you present your build process is not found anywhere else on UA-cam. I am not a handy person and my future arcade cabinet build will be the first time I will ever be woodworking. Please know that your content is very much appreciated.
Agreed. OP responded to me a reddit about a question as well, seems like a solid guy in general and this video series is really really good. Appreciate the content.
You made my day Lee! I really appreciate your heart felt comment cause I work so hard on these videos and on this channel and I'm freely spilling out my experience to whoever will spend some time watching them. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help even more people. Are you going to build my design arcade cab? If you do I'd love to see some pics/videos when you're done. Just dm me on Instagram. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll help you as much as I can. The arcade build was done with a ton of extra woodworking tools/equipment but the pinball cab was with minimal power tools so you might see some ways of using the basics in that series to get your cab built. Thanks for the comment and the support for the channel. Cheers Lee!
Cheers Jay! Yeah it's all about helping each other out and getting more people excited about making cool stuff with their own hands. Glad you're enjoying the series, I've been playing on the vpin lately and finding it REALLY distracting as I wanna keep playing it....lol. Thanks for the props Jay!
Love the build series and cannot wait till you finish and ship it to me in the ends!!! Thanks for doing this to help someone that is not capable to figure this out on my own.
Lol....this specific vpin is considered a heirloom now so if I ever shipped it to ya, you'd be shipping me a busload of cash! Lol. Ya no worries, I'm doing this series for people like you so you can be a part of a great hobby. In the beginning this project can be very confusing as there is sooo much stuff to learn and figure out....I get it. Start with a couple monitors and a pc, get some tables set up and have fun first. Then build the cab and be ready to have a blast! Cheers William!
This whole series is fantastic! I wish I had known that Dupont crimper trick of going from biggest opening on the die to small back around Christmas-time when I was building up my light gun. Pure gold right there. The other "tricks" I've seen require three hands, x-ray vision, or both.
Thanks Bruh! Yeah it's definitely not how you're supposed to do it but those teensy tiny duponts are kinda a pain to do, especially with sausage fingers like mine. It was even harder to figure out how to film that part so people could clearly see it. What light gun did you buy/make? I still want to add a light gun to my cab. Cheers!
I’m so impressed your level of attention to detail sharing your work giving credit to others that helped amazing. When I get feeling better again I really want to build this too see if I still have it in me lol
Thank you very much Leroy! Yeah it's all about helping people and getting them excited about technology and working with their hands. Thanking the people who figured out all of this stuff before us and getting more people excited about building these cool things so people don't forget about pinball, its a win win. Thanks Leroy for the support and feel free to spread the word about the channel so I can help more people. Cheers!
For the dupont crimping - don't try to match up the top of the crimper. Place the rounded bottom of the connector into the rounded "cup" bottom portion of the crimper tool. Then, as you close the crimper slowly the top rounded edges will guide the triangle and rectangle "flanges" into the top crimper portion and you don't have to do the "step down" crimp method you showed. Took me a bit to get the hang of it but once you figure it out it is simple. Love the series, and hope this comment helps and gives back a bit...
oha, your subwoofer box is still alive :-) We decased the sub and screwed the speaker directly to the bottom of the case. We recycled the empty subwoofer box: shrunk it around the opening so that it has the minimum necessary size to house the electronics. On the panel you can then also very easily attach a third RCA jack.
With a prebuilt sub box like my Logitech, I'm not sure it's a good idea to remove it from the box because it is a ported box that is designed to push a second sound wave out with the current, making it louder. I'm going to leave mine together and use the feet to locate screw holes into the bottom of the cab. I've turned up my cabinet volume on some base music and it is unbelievably loud and clear....I ain't messing with it at all. Sounds like your build is nearing completion?
@@wayofthewrench you're right, decasing won't surely improve the bass. Today i can't compare with a normal box anymore, but to me the sound is still fine. By now, we're more or less at the same build stage with your last video. We skipped the mainboard slider and of course the custom lockdown bar. So, now we're on track again. Our backbox is ready and yesterday the decals arrived from printing. After applying that, we will also start to install buttons, electronic and anything else. The plan: we have to be done next april. A lot of time left for our "Mike Roberts standard build", BUT we're planning to add an unique crazy extra feature (still top secret). Yeah yeah yeah. If that really works, i will for sure publish a short video about it.
I know I am getting wayyyyyy ahead of myself considering I have my computer and monitors on the floor propped up on kitchen chairs and I still have trouble with pinup popper LOL. I have to say you give me so much motivation and confidence that I will succeed!!!! Again I love your video's. You explain everything so well provide links and references to what we need and play some killer music while doing so. Thanks again!!
I remember playing on monitors on my living room floor for like 8 months! Did you watch my pinup popper video? Glad you are enjoying my content, if you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks in advance and good luck with your build!
@@wayofthewrench I have watch that video it was great. I just need to be patient and learn more . I do share your videos and see people mention your channel on reddit and different forums. thanks
I've had the same plunger installed for a couple years now, and although at the time I did direct connect wires from the board to buttons, as soon as i went to re-orient the board, or re-route wires, I knew terminal strips would have been a better plan, and do plan to go back and put in terminal strips. The biggest thing I noticed you did, that I don't believe came with my plunger or was even recommended at the time is the hose clamp around the outside of the tube, and I'm sure that is either an improvement or you've also experienced it slipping off or coming out of alignment over time. I've gotten so frustrated with the plunger, that I added a plunger button. I have found it be much more accurate (you can change the pull back speed to be 1s so that repeatable precise plunges can be made for those tables that have precise skill shots). All-in-all, so far for me, the plunger is a novelty and cool that it works when friends come over, but I've preferred the button. I will try the hose clamp and some of your other mentioned settings to see if i see improvement.
Yeah I was surprised how long it took but I'm not rushing plus I have to try to film these awkward angles so people can see and understand what to do themselves. Next video out will show all of the backend to get the parts working. Cheers Mando Mike!
I wish I could double like this comment, it made my day! I work very hard on my videos and my projects so it's always nice to hear people's appreciation for my hard work. If you would like to help me out, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more. Thanks again and thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench I totally spammed all my channels with your page :D Many of my friends thanked me for pointing them to you! Gotta love the internet sometimes
Great video and content once again. I especially appreciated the crimping advice as it took me quite a few "lessons" of my own to learn some of your guidance. Wish I had seen this last summer... Also, great wire management tips as by the time this is all connected it gets pretty full of multi-color spaghetti if not well organized early.
Thanks Scott! Yeah there's lot's of tips in there and I tried to keep as much detail in there for people so they could feel empowered to do this themselves. That is the bulk of the wiring but there is still some ssf wiring and led addressable strips too to come......getting closer. Cheers!
At about 26:30 you talk about the loose wires, if you're not ready to tidy them, use velcro to keep bunches of wires together for the time being, it's very flexible and easy to remove again. I use velcro for PC and Network cables all the time as well cause you sometimes need to replace them. Nice vid as always, looking forward to the final result.
That's a great idea since they are reusable. I didn't have that but I did have bunch of cheap dollar store cab ties so I'm temporarily using them until I use my loom. Thanks for the watch Dirk!
Thank you for the excellent series! I am enjoying your detailed breakdown, which will be great whenever the time comes for me to build a Pincab from scratch. For now, though, I have modded the 1up Pinball cabinet and, in doing so, have the following advice to offer. If you mount a small Stream Deck somewhere on your cabinet (an apron wooden panel is a good candidate here. I magnetically attached mine to the lockdown bar, for example.), you can create an infinite amount of custom buttons for a variety of simple and complex Pincab functions which you would otherwise require bespoke hardware buttons or button combinations to implement. Let me know if this idea interests you and I will be happy to share my experience as well as the button layout art I've done for my cabinet with you.
Cool! You should totally build one! I looked for a 1up near me but they just aren't sold here for some reason. I would be interested in seeing your Stream Deck setup, please send me a dm on Instagram! I was thinking I would install a program to add buttons and a shift function for stuff like night mode or vol up etc. Maybe your setup would be better. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thank you for your kind words! Glad you like my teaching style and content. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Cheers!
Truly the best pinball videos out there! Thanks again. I was wondering if you have any grounding videos. My Virtuapin Plunger keep connecting and disconnecting when I touch the cabinet. It's definitely a static issue. As long as I'm touching the cabinet it will work fine. If I let go, walk a bit and return, it happens :(
Thanks! It was a lot of work but I'm glad I did it. Yes, I do have that in my pretty inside and out video. You should check it out. Thanks for the watch and if you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks in advance!
21:44 Ditto learning curve. I use small needle-nose or side cutters (or crimper die tips) to close V-shape into more of a U-shape parallel for insulator portion of the wire. Start closing the crimper two/three clicks insert the connector the proper way (labelled wire side & back spine on tool - yah half blind w/ age) until insulator tabs jam on die ridge, insert wire not too deep, stick out tongue, and crimp. What goes wrong: #1 - wire too deep or too shallow (blind wire depth - experience or look on front side), #2 - Crimp distorts insulator end making insert into DuPont plastic end difficult (must adjust over-crimp w/ small AWG with needle-nose to be squarish), #3 - connector not inserted far enough and crimp lock clip area for DuPont plastic end and plastic end falls off or connector pushes out (fix w/ X-acto knife or cut/re-crimp). I started originally with double crimping but kept loosing connectors on the ground and it is always fun re-inserting that wire again. Keep Crimping - Experience is the Cure! BTW there is a racket release (or thumb nail breaker) at closing handles pinch. I think you made a secure but bad crimped end: #3 - connector not inserted far enough into die. The DuPont male/female are short (5mm crimp section) and must be inserted 1-2mm inside (flush with die centre ridge transition, die 7mm). You crushed the lock clip part (4 parts - contact, lock area, wire hold, insulator hold). if you insert contact into plastic ends - it will never properly click/lock the end. I did a few wrong and it is a pain to fix without cut-off and re-crimping. DuPont headers will always over crimp end non-square with 26 AWG (0.040") and must be adjusted to fit slack inside plastic without being forced with a watch screwdriver tip.
Thanks Dan! Yeah just a quick and easy mount that costs peanuts, what more could you want? Yeah I bet, I'm guessing everything pinball related is imported in? Where abouts in Australia are ya? Cheers!
Very very nice - thank you! I think i am able to do the same with your instructions! Great work! I have problems finding the KL25Z. It seems that it isnt manufactured anymore... hope the german store get it back in stock :-)
Another great instructional video. I'm using a stand-alone kz25 with Pinscape SW. Is there different SW on that kit? I'm using the standalone for button inputs, the linear pot on my plunger and a button lights and one for two beacons. Built boosters using MJR guide. Using a ledwiz for 10 contactors, strobes, 5 flashers and 2 led strips. I built the MJR boosters for the contactors and strobes. Using pre-made led amp on the strips and straight ledwiz on the flashers. This started as a budget 1080p build because I already had PC, GPU, old 1080p 42". But these videos, the MJR build guide and the forum got me. Now I keep telling myself, "it would cost $9k+ the buy what my finished cab will be....
As far as I know the board is the same but the firmware flashed on it is different. One has the Virtuapin Controller software and the other you are flashing Pinscape. I used the Virtuapin plunger kit more because I wanted to keep it simple but There are other controllers out there and different methods to use a plunger like you have on yours. Pinscape has a shift button function that Virtuapin does not have so I will have to solve that with another program. Yeah these cabinets start low key but eventually end up more advanced/expensive but you get to slowly do this so it's not a shock to the bank account. Cheers!
I'm still on this journey with you and your guide is appreciated over here in NYC. Man! Building these things turns into a rabbit hole;! I have lit buttons on the front and not entirely sure how to wire the bulbs up. Could you give me some pointers?? Thanks so much.
Right on! Glad you're enjoying the series! If you keep watching the series, you'll get to the power supply video and that video shows all the wiring plus this video and the setting up vpx video. It'll all make sense. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
when filming the tight close up of the dupont connectors, turn off the auto focus of your camera. set it to manual and it wont be focus seeking like it is.
Good suggestion! I often shut it off but I may have forgotten or maybe it was off but I change my position and it goes out of focus. Thanks for the watch!
Thank you for the pinball build series. I have a question about the dupont connector. Please tell me where/which hole on the coin door connector the dupont connector goes for grounding?
You're very welcome! It's in the video but the third spot from the yellow wires I believe it is (brown wire). Take a look at the Williams coin door harness picture, it's the coin door switch common. Cheers!
I have watched all your VPB episodes to date and can't wait for more. As a fellow Canadian I have learned so much from you. Have you looked at Cleveland Software Design. They appear to have some good Pinscape KL25z support products. One specifically is a Williams Plunger using a potentiometer. It allows the KLZ25Z to use the standard firmware rather then the custom one VirtuaPin uses. I have not decided which way to go yet.
Awesome! Glad you're enjoying the content! I have looked at them and some others but really only messed around with the Virtuapin plunger kit. If I make another vpin, I'll probably try another method that uses Pinscape so I can try/film that for you guys. I'm pretty happy with my Virtuapin setup but haven't tried others so it's hard to say if they are better or not. On the forums, people do say that they get better resolution on their plunger setups so maybe. Thanks for the watch!
I'm wondering if the nudge works well or has any trouble with the heavy bass? Thank you so much for your amazing videos. I'm rebuilding my cab from 10 years ago and this info is just priceless.
Yes my nudge works well but I had to tweak my settings as the ssf can set off false nudges. First isolate vibrations to the kl25z board using dampening pads and foam then adjust the sensitivity dead zone to ignore flipper hits. Then adjust further to suit your style of nudging. Mine is set up pretty realistic so you have to nudge hard for a very realistic amount of nudge force. Good luck. Thanks for the watch!
Great videos!! I am following them to the letter, and so far, so good. Im unclear on something that i hope you could clarify. How do you daisy chain from the Dupont connector in the coin door connector to the launch ball button. There doesn't seem to be enough room in the coin door connector for both the Dupont connector and the daisy chained wire.
I believe I made one wire a DuPont connector and soldered the other one to it. Then stuck it in the vpin door harness connector. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and enjoy the series!
Which buttons did you install on the front of the pinball machine? I recognize the Launch Ball button from the button kit you bought but the 3 buttons to the left of the door are not part of the kit. Where did you get those ones because I like the way they look. Thanks and keep these videos coming.
Yeah I liked the look of a chrome button in their too. I have a link in the video description for my arcade cabinet parts video. Thanks for the watch and support for my channel!
Another great video. I end up watching your videos three or four times because there’s so much detail and great tips and tricks. One question…can you daisy chain the power leads on the buttons (5V lights) or does that just work for the signal ground? Do you intend to eventually add solenoids and other toys? Thanks for continuing to share this build.
Awesome! Yeah I cram in a lot of good info/experience from my build into those videos. Glad you're finding the content useful! Yes you can daisy chain the power and grounds to your buttons, as long as the voltages are the same. There is a great video for wiring and installing power supplies/lighting buttons coming that I have already scheduled. I can't seem to pump out my content fast enough for ya guys....lol. Cheers!
Sorry for the newbie question but I am finding your videos extremely helpful as i go through my build. For the terminal blocks do they need to be connected to power? Or are they only connecting to the kl25z board? Have not used terminal blocks before so im not sure if they are being used here to just extend the wires and make things look cleaner or if there is another reason i should be using them.
I'm glad you're loving the videos! Terminal block can be used to make basic connections to like just signal wires or they can be used to join multiple wires to one power source. Like one 12 volt positive wire coming in and then multiple 12v positive wires out (or grounds). Thanks for the watch!
Not sure if you ended up doing so or went over it in another video, I was to wire my start and launch ball buttons so they are Dof controlled and blink when available. Do you have a video to do this or tips on how to wire them to do so?
I haven't yet but I'm planning out another vpin build where I will do this. Keep an eye out for it! It can be done with a sainsmart like my shaker motor or using an ledwiz that you would add to your DOF config. Thanks for the watch!
I have kind of an odd question.. But first, I wanted to tell you that I love watching your videos. I have been with you on this journey since you started and I am enjoying it very much. One thing is I am watching/learning from you and the pitfalls you run into so I dont run into the same. I have much (but not all) of the electronics purchased ("buy over time"). My question for you is about the end terminals. Did you buy an assortment kit or did you buy a bag of specific ones? Did you have the crimping tools or did you need to purchase those too? I don't have any of those wire crimp tools (always just tinnned the wire and bent it). Now, I want to get some and do the job nicer/easier. I've seen the kits but in my experience with kits you end up short on what you need but have a pile of the unnecessary stuff. What are your recommendations on the terminal kit? I don't mean manufacturer, I mean like "100 pieces of this and 50 pieces of that and one of these crimpers and one of those crimpers". Finally, thanks again for the great watch. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Thanks Rob! Glad you're enjoying the content. The wire stripper crimper tool is a cheap one from an auto parts store and the different terminal connectors are purchased there too. They come in different wire gauges ( blue, red, and yellow) and different ends and sized ends ( fork, male/female spade, butt, splice, etc). They come in packs of 10, 25, 50, or 100 generally so you can but what you need. Good luck with your build! If ya haven't already, we could really use your support for our Movember cancer fundraiser so we can reach our goal. Thanks in advance!
Awesome info here. Any suggestions for using a KL25Z board without any connector headers? I’m unable to find any available plunger kits with mapped out pre-connected terminals. 😢
I believe that the I build cool shit website has a kit that you could look into that has everything except the kl25z board. You could also look into the diy digital plunger builds out there. Good luck!
Shouldn't you paint before you put all the buttons and wires in? Or are you keeping it natural? Or are you going to completely disassemble the cabinet before you paint and put graphics on? I was thinking you would want to at least put a base layer of black on everything (if that is your base color, for example). I am really enjoying following this and is helping me a lot to understand the processes.
I find that if you are still trying to figure out where stuff goes and are drilling holes and installing/removing shelfs, etc....you're going to make scratches/revisions/holes/etc that would need filling/repainting/damage your vinyl. So like a custom car build, I'm getting everything figured out and then tearing it all down to fill/sand/paint/vinyl and then assemble with a focus on tiding up the wiring and putting in a grounding wire to prevent electrical injury in case of a short. However, it is a lot of work so if you are experienced or know exactly where everything is going (maybe second time building the same cab), then go ahead and paint right after the cabinet is assembled. Good luck with you build!
Next part of my favourite (one of the kind) Vpin Build-Show. Imho the Virtua Pin Buil Bible (Also because your first video was telling easy going on build a pin i started building my own ;-) Top Quality like every Video from you. Already transfered my Prototype Setup in a Williams Indiana Jones Cab. Next Step is wiring. For the buttons i still use my zero delay usb button set ( too lazy to order Leaf Buttons also im satisfied with theses). But for nudging and toys i will install a Pinscape Board, looking forward for your video about DOF Control. Will you add Toys (in my case: Shaker, Beacon, Gearmotor and Fan) via MOSFET Boards oder will you use also a preconfig Board for this? I already learned a lot about the wiring but its really hard for a electronic noob to realize a cheap toy solution with Pinscape & MOSFET (total about 50 €). There are many (expensive) all in one Solutions available, but for me i dont need 20+ channels (no coils because of SSF etc.) so Nudge and four channels Mosfet is ideal. Thanks again for your top notch work and also again for the speed and patient "teaching" voice, always a pleasure to view/hear! Like we say in Germany: Weiter so mein Lieber!
Thank you for the props! I'm do happy that I have inspired you to build your own vpin cab! Yes I will most likely add some toys later to compliment the ssf, which is next. I will probably add a sainsmart relay board to a ledwiz for them. DOF! is coming too as I will need it for my addressible led strips and matrix. Cheers from Canada!
I am building almost the exact replica of your table with all the same components. i just need a little help with the service buttons on the coin door my coin door did not have a harness just the switches and no service buttons so i ordered a 4 button service kit. the problem is I do not know how to connect them to KLZ board what connectors go to what button ? J1 or J2 or combo of both ?
Sweet! It's a fun project! All you have to is hook up the wires from your service buttons to the kl25z board or connect them to the coin door harness wiring for the service buttons and then do what I did. Then in box you just select what each button does. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I have finally started to glue and screw together my pinball cabinet. Should be putting the electronics in next week. When going through the pinball bible making sure I do not miss anything, I saw a whole section where they talk about grounding. I do not remember which option you chose in your cabinet. Did I miss that part and if so, what did you do? Thanks.,
I am adding a grounding cable for external metal parts to the case of my power supply (after a check to see if its grounded) when I reassemble my vpin cab. I have it apart right now to sand/paint/vinyl. Thanks fir the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Ohh, I cannot wait to see the sand/paint/vinyl procedure. I watched your arcade cabinet to get the general idea but looking forward to seeing what new tips you will have for this one. Keep the videos coming.
Have you had any issues with the shaker messing with the kl25z board? Mine cuts out sporadically even though everything is set up correct. I'd hate to have to just disconnect the shaker but it's looking like that might be the only option. Thanks for any advice you have. I know I'm not the only one that struggles with this!!
No I haven't. You could disconnect the shaker motor and run it for a couple days to see if that's truly the issue. If it is, then maybe look into shorts or anti vibration matting, etc. good luck. Thanks for the watch!
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hi... where do you bought the clamp that opens the playfield glass?
@@wayofthewrench i'm facing this problem with the kl25z board. Any advice about it? Is there any forum about this kind of problems? The buttons on screen are flashing randomly like there is some kind of electrical contact. But I can't see anything like that inspecting all the wires. And also a little latency of the plunger and buttons when pressed ua-cam.com/video/li_K_RTyQ8E/v-deo.html
To me it looks like a calibration issue and also maybe a button contact or wiring issue. Also try another usb port. Paul at Virtuapin is great at helping people out too. Good luck.
Thanks Robert! Glad you're liking the content. Joysticks are essentially buttons (up, down, left, right) and infact you can even just use buttons instead of a joystick. So in the Pinscape controller program, press up on joystick and see what button is shows.....then input that button in vpx as up. Continue with the rest and you're done. Thanks for the watch!
Great videos! Very helpful! I am having trouble finding the plastic brackets that hold the leaf switches for the flipper buttons, where did you get yours?
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I got mine from Virtuapin but they look 3d printed to me so maybe there is an STL file in the vpin builder's group that you can 3d print out. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Also, how did you mount your service buttons to the inside of the coin door? Custom brackets? I have the same door/service button unit so hoping for an easy way.
wow a great video! THANK YOU. Now I have a question. I am starting my little virtual pinball project but I want to have the possibility to place contactors inside to simulate the mechanical noise of ball bouncing etc. Will I be able to do that with the kl25z controller or will I need something else?
Thanks! Well I'm using a ssf setup for poor man's dof and it works great. If you want contactors or solenoids you will need a sainsmart board with relays so you can trigger large amperage toys to turn on with low amperage outputs. You may or may not need an ledwiz as well depending on your dof setup.
I've been reading a few sites about coin doors. Due to current availability of the Williams/Bally coin door (like yours) and overall cost of those doors, I was going to hold off on the coin door purchase for now and keep my build going. From what I can tell I should be able to play as long as all of the other buttons/plunger you mention in this video are configured. Do I have that right? Also, curious if you could expand on what other functions you configured or plan to configure with your coin door. Thanks!
Yes, you can just use a keyboard for any service button requirements and your other buttons will take care of coins, start game, etc. The coin door just makes it look original but isn't 100% needed. I might put 2 buttons behind the coin returns to use for other things like coins or night mode or Pinvol vol up/down. If a coin door is too expensive, maybe look for an old used one or 3d print one just for the look. Thanks for the watch!
If I remember correctly, you have 2 black ground wires....one fie each side of the board. You only have to hook up one to ground, not both. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Amazing, thanks for the response. I am a grade 7 teacher from Ontario who is building this for the classroom. Students needed an example table, so they could construct their own, using cardboard, LEGO robotics, Makey Makey controllers, 3D printing and scratch programming. And pinball is cool! None of what I've pulled off would have been possible without your videos. Thanks again!
Oh that's awesome! Very cool to see you student's getting excited to build such a cool project. I would LOVE to see some pics/videos of your student's finished vpin! DM my instagram please! Cheers!
Ya know, I wasn't planning on it as the tilt function inside vpx is pretty good and adjustable. However, I may do videos in the future to kinda complete the info for people. I can't imagine it would be a hard thing to install, it's just a switch that is open until the bob hits the side and makes it a closed switch which would need to be inputted on the kl25z board and the button input configured in vpx as the tilt. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers!
i was wondering, i will be using my gaming pc (external), is it possible if i just hook the buttons up to a arcade usb encoder and have it running to my gaming pc, as well as the hdmi cables for the playfield and backglass display
Yes this is possible but you may have issues jumping from the vpin to external monitors as the displays will change. If you do, you might be able to set up two separate SSD drives and a way to pick which one loads up at boot so you can have your settings saved for the vpin and settings saved for the external setup. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!
Howdy! So I've put together my cabinet and its all up and running for a few weeks now using a "Launch Ball" button. I'd like to look into putting in a plunger but something I'm worried about is if I have enough clearance for the rod to the TV. Do you have the dimensions for how far into the cab your plunger rod goes?
I'll try to look tomorrow for ya but it's around 5" or so. For most people, you'll have to decide whether it goes over or under your monitor. I chose under. Cheers!
I didn't get a chance but just looked at the playfield mount video and at 8:20 there is a spot where I measure the plunger to figure out the mount cut out. Hopefully this can help ya out. ua-cam.com/video/8QDayOHuObc/v-deo.html
I dont comment on youtube vids ever. But I felt compelled to thank you for this series and the Arcade cabinet series. The way you present your build process is not found anywhere else on UA-cam. I am not a handy person and my future arcade cabinet build will be the first time I will ever be woodworking. Please know that your content is very much appreciated.
Agreed. OP responded to me a reddit about a question as well, seems like a solid guy in general and this video series is really really good. Appreciate the content.
You made my day Lee! I really appreciate your heart felt comment cause I work so hard on these videos and on this channel and I'm freely spilling out my experience to whoever will spend some time watching them. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help even more people. Are you going to build my design arcade cab? If you do I'd love to see some pics/videos when you're done. Just dm me on Instagram. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll help you as much as I can. The arcade build was done with a ton of extra woodworking tools/equipment but the pinball cab was with minimal power tools so you might see some ways of using the basics in that series to get your cab built. Thanks for the comment and the support for the channel. Cheers Lee!
Cheers Jay! Yeah it's all about helping each other out and getting more people excited about making cool stuff with their own hands. Glad you're enjoying the series, I've been playing on the vpin lately and finding it REALLY distracting as I wanna keep playing it....lol. Thanks for the props Jay!
Totally agree. Excellent and well laid out video. Thanks for sharing. I'd LOVE to see a video on LED addressable and LED Matrix setup
Thanks Bill! Your wish is my command! Might be a few videos away but I promise it's coming. Cheers!
Love the build series and cannot wait till you finish and ship it to me in the ends!!! Thanks for doing this to help someone that is not capable to figure this out on my own.
Lol....this specific vpin is considered a heirloom now so if I ever shipped it to ya, you'd be shipping me a busload of cash! Lol. Ya no worries, I'm doing this series for people like you so you can be a part of a great hobby. In the beginning this project can be very confusing as there is sooo much stuff to learn and figure out....I get it. Start with a couple monitors and a pc, get some tables set up and have fun first. Then build the cab and be ready to have a blast! Cheers William!
Thanks for the effort you have put down on doing this video to show case the work it takes to get this done!
No worries, glad you are enjoying the series! Thanks for the watch!
This whole series is fantastic! I wish I had known that Dupont crimper trick of going from biggest opening on the die to small back around Christmas-time when I was building up my light gun. Pure gold right there. The other "tricks" I've seen require three hands, x-ray vision, or both.
Thanks Bruh! Yeah it's definitely not how you're supposed to do it but those teensy tiny duponts are kinda a pain to do, especially with sausage fingers like mine. It was even harder to figure out how to film that part so people could clearly see it. What light gun did you buy/make? I still want to add a light gun to my cab. Cheers!
I’m so impressed your level of attention to detail sharing your work giving credit to others that helped amazing. When I get feeling better again I really want to build this too see if I still have it in me lol
Thank you very much Leroy! Yeah it's all about helping people and getting them excited about technology and working with their hands. Thanking the people who figured out all of this stuff before us and getting more people excited about building these cool things so people don't forget about pinball, its a win win. Thanks Leroy for the support and feel free to spread the word about the channel so I can help more people. Cheers!
For the dupont crimping - don't try to match up the top of the crimper. Place the rounded bottom of the connector into the rounded "cup" bottom portion of the crimper tool. Then, as you close the crimper slowly the top rounded edges will guide the triangle and rectangle "flanges" into the top crimper portion and you don't have to do the "step down" crimp method you showed. Took me a bit to get the hang of it but once you figure it out it is simple.
Love the series, and hope this comment helps and gives back a bit...
Thanks for the tip! I'll take another look at the crimper and see if I can figure out what you mean. Thanks dude!
oha, your subwoofer box is still alive :-) We decased the sub and screwed the speaker directly to the bottom of the case. We recycled the empty subwoofer box: shrunk it around the opening so that it has the minimum necessary size to house the electronics. On the panel you can then also very easily attach a third RCA jack.
With a prebuilt sub box like my Logitech, I'm not sure it's a good idea to remove it from the box because it is a ported box that is designed to push a second sound wave out with the current, making it louder. I'm going to leave mine together and use the feet to locate screw holes into the bottom of the cab. I've turned up my cabinet volume on some base music and it is unbelievably loud and clear....I ain't messing with it at all. Sounds like your build is nearing completion?
@@wayofthewrench you're right, decasing won't surely improve the bass. Today i can't compare with a normal box anymore, but to me the sound is still fine. By now, we're more or less at the same build stage with your last video. We skipped the mainboard slider and of course the custom lockdown bar. So, now we're on track again. Our backbox is ready and yesterday the decals arrived from printing. After applying that, we will also start to install buttons, electronic and anything else. The plan: we have to be done next april. A lot of time left for our "Mike Roberts standard build", BUT we're planning to add an unique crazy extra feature (still top secret). Yeah yeah yeah. If that really works, i will for sure publish a short video about it.
oh oh oh...I wanna know the top secret build feature!
I know I am getting wayyyyyy ahead of myself considering I have my computer and monitors on the floor propped up on kitchen chairs and I still have trouble with pinup popper LOL. I have to say you give me so much motivation and confidence that I will succeed!!!! Again I love your video's. You explain everything so well provide links and references to what we need and play some killer music while doing so. Thanks again!!
I remember playing on monitors on my living room floor for like 8 months! Did you watch my pinup popper video? Glad you are enjoying my content, if you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks in advance and good luck with your build!
@@wayofthewrench I have watch that video it was great. I just need to be patient and learn more . I do share your videos and see people mention your channel on reddit and different forums. thanks
Thanks Bruh!
I've had the same plunger installed for a couple years now, and although at the time I did direct connect wires from the board to buttons, as soon as i went to re-orient the board, or re-route wires, I knew terminal strips would have been a better plan, and do plan to go back and put in terminal strips.
The biggest thing I noticed you did, that I don't believe came with my plunger or was even recommended at the time is the hose clamp around the outside of the tube, and I'm sure that is either an improvement or you've also experienced it slipping off or coming out of alignment over time.
I've gotten so frustrated with the plunger, that I added a plunger button. I have found it be much more accurate (you can change the pull back speed to be 1s so that repeatable precise plunges can be made for those tables that have precise skill shots). All-in-all, so far for me, the plunger is a novelty and cool that it works when friends come over, but I've preferred the button. I will try the hose clamp and some of your other mentioned settings to see if i see improvement.
Yeah the hose clamp came in the kit and just ensures the tube doesn't move at all. I've had zero issues with this plunger kit. Thanks for the watch!
Looking great! Wiring is always tedious but satisfying. Look forward to the next videos!
Yeah I was surprised how long it took but I'm not rushing plus I have to try to film these awkward angles so people can see and understand what to do themselves. Next video out will show all of the backend to get the parts working. Cheers Mando Mike!
This series is my fav show atm, great work!
I wish I could double like this comment, it made my day! I work very hard on my videos and my projects so it's always nice to hear people's appreciation for my hard work. If you would like to help me out, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more. Thanks again and thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench I totally spammed all my channels with your page :D Many of my friends thanked me for pointing them to you! Gotta love the internet sometimes
Thanks very much dude! Appreciate the support!
Great video and content once again. I especially appreciated the crimping advice as it took me quite a few "lessons" of my own to learn some of your guidance. Wish I had seen this last summer... Also, great wire management tips as by the time this is all connected it gets pretty full of multi-color spaghetti if not well organized early.
Thanks Scott! Yeah there's lot's of tips in there and I tried to keep as much detail in there for people so they could feel empowered to do this themselves. That is the bulk of the wiring but there is still some ssf wiring and led addressable strips too to come......getting closer. Cheers!
At about 26:30 you talk about the loose wires, if you're not ready to tidy them, use velcro to keep bunches of wires together for the time being, it's very flexible and easy to remove again. I use velcro for PC and Network cables all the time as well cause you sometimes need to replace them. Nice vid as always, looking forward to the final result.
That's a great idea since they are reusable. I didn't have that but I did have bunch of cheap dollar store cab ties so I'm temporarily using them until I use my loom. Thanks for the watch Dirk!
Thank you for the excellent series! I am enjoying your detailed breakdown, which will be great whenever the time comes for me to build a Pincab from scratch. For now, though, I have modded the 1up Pinball cabinet and, in doing so, have the following advice to offer. If you mount a small Stream Deck somewhere on your cabinet (an apron wooden panel is a good candidate here. I magnetically attached mine to the lockdown bar, for example.), you can create an infinite amount of custom buttons for a variety of simple and complex Pincab functions which you would otherwise require bespoke hardware buttons or button combinations to implement. Let me know if this idea interests you and I will be happy to share my experience as well as the button layout art I've done for my cabinet with you.
Cool! You should totally build one! I looked for a 1up near me but they just aren't sold here for some reason. I would be interested in seeing your Stream Deck setup, please send me a dm on Instagram! I was thinking I would install a program to add buttons and a shift function for stuff like night mode or vol up etc. Maybe your setup would be better. Thanks for the suggestion!
You are a very good teacher , Big ups
Thank you for your kind words! Glad you like my teaching style and content. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Cheers!
Truly the best pinball videos out there! Thanks again. I was wondering if you have any grounding videos. My Virtuapin Plunger keep connecting and disconnecting when I touch the cabinet. It's definitely a static issue. As long as I'm touching the cabinet it will work fine. If I let go, walk a bit and return, it happens :(
Thanks! It was a lot of work but I'm glad I did it. Yes, I do have that in my pretty inside and out video. You should check it out. Thanks for the watch and if you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks in advance!
Will do!!! Thanks again!
21:44 Ditto learning curve. I use small needle-nose or side cutters (or crimper die tips) to close V-shape into more of a U-shape parallel for insulator portion of the wire. Start closing the crimper two/three clicks insert the connector the proper way (labelled wire side & back spine on tool - yah half blind w/ age) until insulator tabs jam on die ridge, insert wire not too deep, stick out tongue, and crimp.
What goes wrong: #1 - wire too deep or too shallow (blind wire depth - experience or look on front side), #2 - Crimp distorts insulator end making insert into DuPont plastic end difficult (must adjust over-crimp w/ small AWG with needle-nose to be squarish), #3 - connector not inserted far enough and crimp lock clip area for DuPont plastic end and plastic end falls off or connector pushes out (fix w/ X-acto knife or cut/re-crimp).
I started originally with double crimping but kept loosing connectors on the ground and it is always fun re-inserting that wire again. Keep Crimping - Experience is the Cure!
BTW there is a racket release (or thumb nail breaker) at closing handles pinch.
I think you made a secure but bad crimped end: #3 - connector not inserted far enough into die. The DuPont male/female are short (5mm crimp section) and must be inserted 1-2mm inside (flush with die centre ridge transition, die 7mm). You crushed the lock clip part (4 parts - contact, lock area, wire hold, insulator hold). if you insert contact into plastic ends - it will never properly click/lock the end. I did a few wrong and it is a pain to fix without cut-off and re-crimping. DuPont headers will always over crimp end non-square with 26 AWG (0.040") and must be adjusted to fit slack inside plastic without being forced with a watch screwdriver tip.
Practice does make it perfect. Thanks for the info!
Once again, top quality video. Love your coin door mount, it's very expensive in Australia too, I haven't added one to my cab yet.
Thanks Dan! Yeah just a quick and easy mount that costs peanuts, what more could you want? Yeah I bet, I'm guessing everything pinball related is imported in? Where abouts in Australia are ya? Cheers!
Very very nice - thank you! I think i am able to do the same with your instructions! Great work! I have problems finding the KL25Z. It seems that it isnt manufactured anymore... hope the german store get it back in stock :-)
Awesome! Did you try Virtuapin? They had them in stock recently. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Another great instructional video. I'm using a stand-alone kz25 with Pinscape SW. Is there different SW on that kit? I'm using the standalone for button inputs, the linear pot on my plunger and a button lights and one for two beacons. Built boosters using MJR guide. Using a ledwiz for 10 contactors, strobes, 5 flashers and 2 led strips. I built the MJR boosters for the contactors and strobes. Using pre-made led amp on the strips and straight ledwiz on the flashers. This started as a budget 1080p build because I already had PC, GPU, old 1080p 42". But these videos, the MJR build guide and the forum got me. Now I keep telling myself, "it would cost $9k+ the buy what my finished cab will be....
As far as I know the board is the same but the firmware flashed on it is different. One has the Virtuapin Controller software and the other you are flashing Pinscape. I used the Virtuapin plunger kit more because I wanted to keep it simple but There are other controllers out there and different methods to use a plunger like you have on yours. Pinscape has a shift button function that Virtuapin does not have so I will have to solve that with another program. Yeah these cabinets start low key but eventually end up more advanced/expensive but you get to slowly do this so it's not a shock to the bank account. Cheers!
OMG thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! Your video and explanations are great!
No worries, I'm just happy people are watching my videos and getting something out of them. Cheers!
I'm still on this journey with you and your guide is appreciated over here in NYC. Man! Building these things turns into a rabbit hole;! I have lit buttons on the front and not entirely sure how to wire the bulbs up. Could you give me some pointers?? Thanks so much.
Right on! Glad you're enjoying the series! If you keep watching the series, you'll get to the power supply video and that video shows all the wiring plus this video and the setting up vpx video. It'll all make sense. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench ah perfect. Thanks man and so impressed with the quick reply.
No worries. Play some pinball and have some NYC pizza for me! Cheers!
Awesome job! Very clear. Thanks!
Thanks very much! Im trying to make my videos very clear with good insight and great visuals/close ups/audio. Cheers!
when filming the tight close up of the dupont connectors, turn off the auto focus of your camera. set it to manual and it wont be focus seeking like it is.
Good suggestion! I often shut it off but I may have forgotten or maybe it was off but I change my position and it goes out of focus. Thanks for the watch!
Thank you for the pinball build series. I have a question about the dupont connector. Please tell me where/which hole on the coin door connector the dupont connector goes for grounding?
You're very welcome! It's in the video but the third spot from the yellow wires I believe it is (brown wire). Take a look at the Williams coin door harness picture, it's the coin door switch common. Cheers!
I have watched all your VPB episodes to date and can't wait for more. As a fellow Canadian I have learned so much from you. Have you looked at Cleveland Software Design. They appear to have some good Pinscape KL25z support products. One specifically is a Williams Plunger using a potentiometer. It allows the KLZ25Z to use the standard firmware rather then the custom one VirtuaPin uses. I have not decided which way to go yet.
Awesome! Glad you're enjoying the content! I have looked at them and some others but really only messed around with the Virtuapin plunger kit. If I make another vpin, I'll probably try another method that uses Pinscape so I can try/film that for you guys. I'm pretty happy with my Virtuapin setup but haven't tried others so it's hard to say if they are better or not. On the forums, people do say that they get better resolution on their plunger setups so maybe. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench To clarify, on the forums, which version did people say they got better resolution?
I'm wondering if the nudge works well or has any trouble with the heavy bass? Thank you so much for your amazing videos. I'm rebuilding my cab from 10 years ago and this info is just priceless.
Yes my nudge works well but I had to tweak my settings as the ssf can set off false nudges. First isolate vibrations to the kl25z board using dampening pads and foam then adjust the sensitivity dead zone to ignore flipper hits. Then adjust further to suit your style of nudging. Mine is set up pretty realistic so you have to nudge hard for a very realistic amount of nudge force. Good luck. Thanks for the watch!
Great videos!! I am following them to the letter, and so far, so good. Im unclear on something that i hope you could clarify. How do you daisy chain from the Dupont connector in the coin door connector to the launch ball button. There doesn't seem to be enough room in the coin door connector for both the Dupont connector and the daisy chained wire.
I believe I made one wire a DuPont connector and soldered the other one to it. Then stuck it in the vpin door harness connector. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and enjoy the series!
Which buttons did you install on the front of the pinball machine? I recognize the Launch Ball button from the button kit you bought but the 3 buttons to the left of the door are not part of the kit. Where did you get those ones because I like the way they look. Thanks and keep these videos coming.
Yeah I liked the look of a chrome button in their too. I have a link in the video description for my arcade cabinet parts video. Thanks for the watch and support for my channel!
Another great video. I end up watching your videos three or four times because there’s so much detail and great tips and tricks. One question…can you daisy chain the power leads on the buttons (5V lights) or does that just work for the signal ground? Do you intend to eventually add solenoids and other toys? Thanks for continuing to share this build.
Awesome! Yeah I cram in a lot of good info/experience from my build into those videos. Glad you're finding the content useful! Yes you can daisy chain the power and grounds to your buttons, as long as the voltages are the same. There is a great video for wiring and installing power supplies/lighting buttons coming that I have already scheduled. I can't seem to pump out my content fast enough for ya guys....lol. Cheers!
Cool
Thanks!
Sorry for the newbie question but I am finding your videos extremely helpful as i go through my build. For the terminal blocks do they need to be connected to power? Or are they only connecting to the kl25z board? Have not used terminal blocks before so im not sure if they are being used here to just extend the wires and make things look cleaner or if there is another reason i should be using them.
I'm glad you're loving the videos! Terminal block can be used to make basic connections to like just signal wires or they can be used to join multiple wires to one power source. Like one 12 volt positive wire coming in and then multiple 12v positive wires out (or grounds). Thanks for the watch!
Not sure if you ended up doing so or went over it in another video, I was to wire my start and launch ball buttons so they are Dof controlled and blink when available. Do you have a video to do this or tips on how to wire them to do so?
I haven't yet but I'm planning out another vpin build where I will do this. Keep an eye out for it! It can be done with a sainsmart like my shaker motor or using an ledwiz that you would add to your DOF config. Thanks for the watch!
I have kind of an odd question.. But first, I wanted to tell you that I love watching your videos. I have been with you on this journey since you started and I am enjoying it very much. One thing is I am watching/learning from you and the pitfalls you run into so I dont run into the same. I have much (but not all) of the electronics purchased ("buy over time"). My question for you is about the end terminals. Did you buy an assortment kit or did you buy a bag of specific ones? Did you have the crimping tools or did you need to purchase those too? I don't have any of those wire crimp tools (always just tinnned the wire and bent it). Now, I want to get some and do the job nicer/easier. I've seen the kits but in my experience with kits you end up short on what you need but have a pile of the unnecessary stuff. What are your recommendations on the terminal kit? I don't mean manufacturer, I mean like "100 pieces of this and 50 pieces of that and one of these crimpers and one of those crimpers". Finally, thanks again for the great watch. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Thanks Rob! Glad you're enjoying the content. The wire stripper crimper tool is a cheap one from an auto parts store and the different terminal connectors are purchased there too. They come in different wire gauges ( blue, red, and yellow) and different ends and sized ends ( fork, male/female spade, butt, splice, etc). They come in packs of 10, 25, 50, or 100 generally so you can but what you need. Good luck with your build! If ya haven't already, we could really use your support for our Movember cancer fundraiser so we can reach our goal. Thanks in advance!
Did you ever look at the PinOne setup for vpin cabs?? What do you think of it???
I know of it but haven't had the chance yet, perhaps in the future for another build. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Awesome info here.
Any suggestions for using a KL25Z board without any connector headers? I’m unable to find any available plunger kits with mapped out pre-connected terminals. 😢
I believe that the I build cool shit website has a kit that you could look into that has everything except the kl25z board. You could also look into the diy digital plunger builds out there. Good luck!
Shouldn't you paint before you put all the buttons and wires in? Or are you keeping it natural? Or are you going to completely disassemble the cabinet before you paint and put graphics on? I was thinking you would want to at least put a base layer of black on everything (if that is your base color, for example). I am really enjoying following this and is helping me a lot to understand the processes.
I find that if you are still trying to figure out where stuff goes and are drilling holes and installing/removing shelfs, etc....you're going to make scratches/revisions/holes/etc that would need filling/repainting/damage your vinyl. So like a custom car build, I'm getting everything figured out and then tearing it all down to fill/sand/paint/vinyl and then assemble with a focus on tiding up the wiring and putting in a grounding wire to prevent electrical injury in case of a short. However, it is a lot of work so if you are experienced or know exactly where everything is going (maybe second time building the same cab), then go ahead and paint right after the cabinet is assembled. Good luck with you build!
Next part of my favourite (one of the kind) Vpin Build-Show. Imho the Virtua Pin Buil Bible (Also because your first video was telling easy going on build a pin i started building my own ;-) Top Quality like every Video from you. Already transfered my Prototype Setup in a Williams Indiana Jones Cab. Next Step is wiring. For the buttons i still use my zero delay usb button set ( too lazy to order Leaf Buttons also im satisfied with theses). But for nudging and toys i will install a Pinscape Board, looking forward for your video about DOF Control. Will you add Toys (in my case: Shaker, Beacon, Gearmotor and Fan) via MOSFET Boards oder will you use also a preconfig Board for this? I already learned a lot about the wiring but its really hard for a electronic noob to realize a cheap toy solution with Pinscape & MOSFET (total about 50 €). There are many (expensive) all in one Solutions available, but for me i dont need 20+ channels (no coils because of SSF etc.) so Nudge and four channels Mosfet is ideal. Thanks again for your top notch work and also again for the speed and patient "teaching" voice, always a pleasure to view/hear! Like we say in Germany: Weiter so mein Lieber!
Thank you for the props! I'm do happy that I have inspired you to build your own vpin cab! Yes I will most likely add some toys later to compliment the ssf, which is next. I will probably add a sainsmart relay board to a ledwiz for them. DOF! is coming too as I will need it for my addressible led strips and matrix. Cheers from Canada!
I am building almost the exact replica of your table with all the same components. i just need a little help with the service buttons on the coin door my coin door did not have a harness just the switches and no service buttons so i ordered a 4 button service kit. the problem is I do not know how to connect them to KLZ board what connectors go to what button ? J1 or J2 or combo of both ?
Sweet! It's a fun project! All you have to is hook up the wires from your service buttons to the kl25z board or connect them to the coin door harness wiring for the service buttons and then do what I did. Then in box you just select what each button does. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
I have finally started to glue and screw together my pinball cabinet. Should be putting the electronics in next week. When going through the pinball bible making sure I do not miss anything, I saw a whole section where they talk about grounding. I do not remember which option you chose in your cabinet. Did I miss that part and if so, what did you do? Thanks.,
I am adding a grounding cable for external metal parts to the case of my power supply (after a check to see if its grounded) when I reassemble my vpin cab. I have it apart right now to sand/paint/vinyl. Thanks fir the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Ohh, I cannot wait to see the sand/paint/vinyl procedure. I watched your arcade cabinet to get the general idea but looking forward to seeing what new tips you will have for this one. Keep the videos coming.
Will do!
Have you had any issues with the shaker messing with the kl25z board? Mine cuts out sporadically even though everything is set up correct. I'd hate to have to just disconnect the shaker but it's looking like that might be the only option. Thanks for any advice you have. I know I'm not the only one that struggles with this!!
No I haven't. You could disconnect the shaker motor and run it for a couple days to see if that's truly the issue. If it is, then maybe look into shorts or anti vibration matting, etc. good luck. Thanks for the watch!
hi... where do you bought the clamp that opens the playfield glass?
Those are in my parts video. ua-cam.com/video/5Ftgomc1Wqs/v-deo.html. There is a link too. Good luck on your build! Cheers!
I see a Ground Pin on J1 and on J2 - does ist matter which one i connect to the buttons?
No it doesn't as they are connected to each other. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel. Cheers!
One question....how did you manage the second black wire (ground) of the J2 (8-pin) connector? Have you wired something there? Thanks for your time!
The second ground is just an extra ground, I have nothing hooked up to it. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench i'm facing this problem with the kl25z board. Any advice about it? Is there any forum about this kind of problems? The buttons on screen are flashing randomly like there is some kind of electrical contact. But I can't see anything like that inspecting all the wires.
And also a little latency of the plunger and buttons when pressed ua-cam.com/video/li_K_RTyQ8E/v-deo.html
To me it looks like a calibration issue and also maybe a button contact or wiring issue. Also try another usb port. Paul at Virtuapin is great at helping people out too. Good luck.
Hi! first time and great work ..I need your help.. vpx baby pac-man how to install a joystick to the pinscape klz25?😀
Thanks Robert! Glad you're liking the content. Joysticks are essentially buttons (up, down, left, right) and infact you can even just use buttons instead of a joystick. So in the Pinscape controller program, press up on joystick and see what button is shows.....then input that button in vpx as up. Continue with the rest and you're done. Thanks for the watch!
Great videos! Very helpful! I am having trouble finding the plastic brackets that hold the leaf switches for the flipper buttons, where did you get yours?
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I got mine from Virtuapin but they look 3d printed to me so maybe there is an STL file in the vpin builder's group that you can 3d print out. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Yes, you are correct, there are some on Thingiverse, perfect! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Also, how did you mount your service buttons to the inside of the coin door? Custom brackets? I have the same door/service button unit so hoping for an easy way.
Perfect!
My coin door came with them but I'm sure you can order the bracket and service buttons from Virtuapin. Cheers!
wow a great video! THANK YOU. Now I have a question. I am starting my little virtual pinball project but I want to have the possibility to place contactors inside to simulate the mechanical noise of ball bouncing etc. Will I be able to do that with the kl25z controller or will I need something else?
Thanks! Well I'm using a ssf setup for poor man's dof and it works great. If you want contactors or solenoids you will need a sainsmart board with relays so you can trigger large amperage toys to turn on with low amperage outputs. You may or may not need an ledwiz as well depending on your dof setup.
I've been reading a few sites about coin doors. Due to current availability of the Williams/Bally coin door (like yours) and overall cost of those doors, I was going to hold off on the coin door purchase for now and keep my build going. From what I can tell I should be able to play as long as all of the other buttons/plunger you mention in this video are configured. Do I have that right? Also, curious if you could expand on what other functions you configured or plan to configure with your coin door. Thanks!
Yes, you can just use a keyboard for any service button requirements and your other buttons will take care of coins, start game, etc. The coin door just makes it look original but isn't 100% needed. I might put 2 buttons behind the coin returns to use for other things like coins or night mode or Pinvol vol up/down. If a coin door is too expensive, maybe look for an old used one or 3d print one just for the look. Thanks for the watch!
Can you tell me where you purchased the extra blue button you show on your video
Blue button? If it's a rectangular button, it is from Virtuapin. Thanks for the watch!
I cannot find the link for the coin door switch ?
I ordered my switch from a local electronics store but here is another one.
www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23024
have you connected the 8 pin ground wire to anything? Following every detail of your video and I can't figure out if or what that wire is used
If I remember correctly, you have 2 black ground wires....one fie each side of the board. You only have to hook up one to ground, not both. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Amazing, thanks for the response. I am a grade 7 teacher from Ontario who is building this for the classroom. Students needed an example table, so they could construct their own, using cardboard, LEGO robotics, Makey Makey controllers, 3D printing and scratch programming. And pinball is cool! None of what I've pulled off would have been possible without your videos. Thanks again!
Oh that's awesome! Very cool to see you student's getting excited to build such a cool project. I would LOVE to see some pics/videos of your student's finished vpin! DM my instagram please! Cheers!
are you going to use a tilt bob, i know they dont cost alot. have not seen any videos online on how to hook one up.
Ya know, I wasn't planning on it as the tilt function inside vpx is pretty good and adjustable. However, I may do videos in the future to kinda complete the info for people. I can't imagine it would be a hard thing to install, it's just a switch that is open until the bob hits the side and makes it a closed switch which would need to be inputted on the kl25z board and the button input configured in vpx as the tilt. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers!
i was wondering, i will be using my gaming pc (external), is it possible if i just hook the buttons up to a arcade usb encoder and have it running to my gaming pc, as well as the hdmi cables for the playfield and backglass display
Yes this is possible but you may have issues jumping from the vpin to external monitors as the displays will change. If you do, you might be able to set up two separate SSD drives and a way to pick which one loads up at boot so you can have your settings saved for the vpin and settings saved for the external setup. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!
Howdy! So I've put together my cabinet and its all up and running for a few weeks now using a "Launch Ball" button. I'd like to look into putting in a plunger but something I'm worried about is if I have enough clearance for the rod to the TV. Do you have the dimensions for how far into the cab your plunger rod goes?
I'll try to look tomorrow for ya but it's around 5" or so. For most people, you'll have to decide whether it goes over or under your monitor. I chose under. Cheers!
Howdy!
Checking in to see if you had a chance to grab that measurement? If it's 5 inches I think I should be able to get it to fit
I didn't get a chance but just looked at the playfield mount video and at 8:20 there is a spot where I measure the plunger to figure out the mount cut out. Hopefully this can help ya out.
ua-cam.com/video/8QDayOHuObc/v-deo.html
Do you have a running total of approximate costs for all parts/materials so far?
No exact total but it is around $1500 CAN total and was spent slowly over 2 years. Virtual pinball in my house.....priceless.