Amazon Affiliate Link to gauge/shims used in this video: amzn.to/3Ng9ftR See how to remove loader on Kubota L-series here: ua-cam.com/video/OXftE753THA/v-deo.html HISUN Sector 750 provided by HISUN Motors www.hisunmotors.com/ @HisunUSA Ballard Mower Blades 10% discount code: PGH10 www.ballard-inc.com New way to fence your land! Cat's Claw Fasteners. Use code PGFREE for free shipping! fencingstaples.com/ Or Amazon Affiliate Link: amzn.to/4dDcaJ7 QC-Mate X-Boom Hydraulic Coupler Clamp: www.skidsteersolutions.com/ Use PINEYGROVEHOMESTEAD for 5% off anything on the website! This is our Amazon store with affiliate links to products we use on the channel. It doesn't cost you anymore and it helps support the channel, THANKS! www.amazon.com/shop/pineygrovehomestead-tractorsandoutdoors Some of our favorite products on Amazon (affiliate links): Mower Blade Sharpener Guide: amzn.to/4dGYZa5 Dewalt 20V Cordless Grinder: amzn.to/4bF2trS Flap discs: amzn.to/3UKEzo0 Grinding wheel: amzn.to/3K95ipi 275 Gallon IBC Tote: amzn.to/3XbxwHs Vise Grip Wire Pliers: amzn.to/3WZ2P6U 12V Pump: amzn.to/4a3AwsI Proven Industries Trailer Lock: amzn.to/3WVzytv Flex Tape: amzn.to/3R4MdWm Mechanix Leather Gloves: amzn.to/3HjoZZf Ratcheting Fence Tensioner: amzn.to/3aEfSX0 6’ Digging and Pry bar: amzn.to/3vH5Agx Welcome to our channel! 🎥 What to Watch Next: Fixing Leaky Pond: ua-cam.com/video/NEwSTg1aOWc/v-deo.html Transforming Our Property: ua-cam.com/video/-jBGEYJea1Y/v-deo.html Baling Hay: ua-cam.com/video/yQJNF3wFm-U/v-deo.html Framing Our Pole Barn: ua-cam.com/video/zWgnTFQeiwI/v-deo.html Our Story: We are six years into a seven year effort of transforming 20 acres of "Piney Grove" in Northwest Florida into our dream homestead/mini farm to be filled with animals and joy. We plan to have a variety of miniature critters on our pastures, raise free-range chickens, grow fish in our pond, garden, plant fruit and nut trees, and harvest wild game. Our goal is to escape the stresses of corporate life and embrace all that country living has to offer as we enter the next chapter of our lives. Follow along on our journey! Thanks for watching and please Like and Subscribe to help our channel!! Brad & Deb
Another option that you could look at in the future if you decide you need even more capacity is the Hydro plus cylinders. I believe that would increase your capacity by another 35% or so without the risk of damaging your hydraulic system by adding more shims. With as beefy as the stater L series frame is, I would not hesitate to lift 2000 pounds if it had the ability to do so.
Bless you so much for sharing what our Jailbreak kits can do for Kubota tractors... as a small business, this is the best promotion we can ask for!!! THANK YOU!!!
get some fluid in your tires. Either Rimguard or RV Antifreeze which is what I used. Makes a huge difference and I did not see any negative effects from it with regards to ruts in the soil and I use mine with a mid mount mower to mow my yard.
I had a 3901, and I mentioned this on another of your videos, I found the tractor to be very, very tippy. With a bucket full of gravel held below the hood, and with a box blade on the back, any turns on the slightest slope would pick up a back wheel. I think that's why Kubota underpowers the hydraulics. I had to slam the bucket down many times! That said, it was a good-running machine. I would still probably have it but I needed a more powerful machine.
If you want to break something , like blowing cylinders, rack the lifting arms, or roll it over,, have at it. I have a l 3400, for 20 years I know what I'm talking about.
An L3901 is listed 200+ pounds lighter than the 3515. I literally just ordered a 3515ch on Friday. Part of why I did is how heavy the axles are built. When you put 770 lbs of RimGuard in the back tires, the 3515 is about 3800 pounds (4434 with the cab). For me, I’ll be using all that lift capacity. Not to pick something way off the ground and drive, but to be able to manhandle stumps and logs and the occasional rock or concrete, move with it just off the ground, and sometimes lift it over the side of my dump trailer and drop it in. Also comes in handy getting heavy implements and pallets off a truck and immediately lowered. I also have a 1025r, so I’ve spent the last few years living with a tractor that can barely get 1/3 yard of damp clay in a rounded bucket to full height. The lift capacity is a very real and usable feature depending on how you use your equipment. I’ll see as I incorporate the TYM into my small tractor work business, but for comparison, I was quoted almost exactly twice as much for a Deere 3039r with a cab as I was for the 3515ch cab, and the 3515 lifts 800 more lbs on the 3-point and almost 1000 more lbs on the loader. Every penny matters for me. I can’t pay twice as much for much less capability.
TYM makes an excellent tractor, that’s based on many hours of usage on more than one model. Also there’s a lot that goes into pricing. I’m not biased towards any tractor (at least any modern production tractor lol), I like some models of about every brand, but facts are facts, that said for the money spent a person buying a TYM is money ahead. They just offer more for the money and it comes with reliability!
I've owned multiple Deere, Kubota, New Holland and Massey Ferguson, everything from 30hp up to 100hp. I replaced two tractors 4 years ago, and I went with MF for a long list of reasons, but two of them were the substantial difference in hydraulic flow and lifting capacity. I have a 4707 75hp and a 1835m 36hp. Lifting capacity is amazing. If you load it enough either will lift the back tires off the ground even at an idle. I run an 18" hydraulic auger on both but I usually just use the little one because it's plenty. I can drill a 3 ft deep hole in this hard clay in a minute or two. I'm not trashing Deere or Kubota, but I've owned them all and the MF kicks their butts. New Holland utility tractors are nowhere close to any of these, based on the two I have owned.
Like this fella with the forks, do have any rear ballast when lifting the rear tires? I think Kubota is worried about liability by limiting hydraulic pressure, BECAUSE many operators do not have enough rear ballast. Is a rear rototiller enough ballast for lifting and transporting 1100 pounds? I have a BX25 and increased my hydraulic pressure with a couple of washers under the pressure relief spring, and can lift six sheets of 4 x 8 x 1" sheets of plywood(each weighs about 90 pounds) on the forks, in front of the FEL bucket. Whatever the lift at the pins are, I have no idea, and I have no idea what the actual hydraulic pressure is. BUT it works for me. PS The backhoe sometimes with a 300 pound boulder is my ballast.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 If I need to move something really heavy I can hang something off the back for ballast. I rarely run into that problem because I have the bigger tractor for those loads. I think it lifts something like 4700 lbs. at the pins. But I've done it with the smaller tractor and usually something like a bushhog hanging off the back. Works great. A rototiller should be more than enough.
I went through a lot of tractors before deciding on new ones to add to my farm I picked up a massey ferguson 5712s (120hp) its specs blew the competition out of the water, it'll lift 4800~ on the loader and 11400 on the 3pt. The other is a little massey 1835m its a mighty little machine, it'll lift a 1200 pound square bale on the front and rear with absolutely no problem.
@@shanedevon147 The 5712 is a beast! We only have about 90 acres and I've found the 4707 is enough for my needs. It pulls a 15' batwing with no problem and I want to say the lifting capacity is something around 3500. But the 1835m is the one that gets used all the time. Bucket, grapple, post auger, pallet forks - it handles them all. And you're right - the specs on both blow the competition out of the water.
Whats truly crazy is the difference in lifting capacity on 100hp class tractors unballasted with the exception of iron centers from old tracrors say 806/826/856 to the later such as JX95 etc
I was blinded by the sun couple weeks planning to dump bucket of durt. It was a little high n when i moved foward it rolled on.me. ouch. Called neighbors and two trucks with long chains to stand it back up and off me. ( No roll bar. But soon) learned a ruff lesson. Dandahermit
Just bought one through your affiliate link, came across your video this morning althugh I have seen vids of this mod before, your video convinced me plus I like this kit has a gauge with it, which I also need- AND I am doing some big stumps right now! Fortunately I have a KX040 to help out!
@@PineyGroveHomestead is that a kx71 7ton from the same era? Replaced now by the kx080? Dang that aint a mini anymore!! Hehe- happy day, thanks for the Psalms in your video too!
I did the shim thing on my little BX22 a couple of years ago when I was going to be moving about 60 ton of stone plus a bout 20 more ton of soil for the site prep for my shop building. It absolutely made a difference.
I'm sorry to say the reason it is designed to lift those amounts is so amateur weekend tractor operators don't kill themselves. They also don't want to warranty damage from inexperienced operators either. If you are going to increase lift you had definitely increase the ballast.
@@danielhenebry223 There is certainly some truth to what you mention, but as a Kubota owner since 2000, I also found that the suboptimal lift capacity also had some degradation over time. Using the shims got it back to "a bit better than new". And the backhoe that never comes off my BX22 weighs not quite twice the FEL capacity.
Also make sure your tractor is no longer under warranty, probably would cause some warranty issues with the hydraulic system if something hydraulic related failed.
@@wildbill23c ..just stay within spec... these shims are made by Kubota for adjustment..nothing shady or wrong about going up to the max recommended pressure....
@@wildbill23c Because some people abuse this.. such as adding shims with no gauge until it "feels" right... and they end up bending cylinders and busting hoses, and even ruining the pump itself. Some people push it too far even WITH a gauge because they are so focused on what they want to do vs. what the machine is capable of.. when in reality they just need a bigger machine. If your machine is under warranty I would definitely stay at or under the recommended pressure, but used RESPONSIBLY, shims are simply how your pressure is supposed to be adjusted on most Kubota units.
I had that same tractor with a backhoe attachment. I had a smaller BX tractor for many years and still have it. The loader on that 3901 was crooked, always crooked and the dealer couldn’t straighten it. It would never set down on the ground level. Also, the loader would wobble. It was weak when hauling gravel in the bucket. And the lift capacity is terrible. Also, when loading gravel, the pump is so weak because it’s a single hydraulic pump, the power steering quits so you can’t turn the front wheels. After a year I sold the tractor. I bought a smaller coyote. The loader is solid and straight as an arrow and lift capacity is higher. I absolutely love Kabota engines, but they’re quality has gone down. Also the bucket cutting edge wore unbelievably fast. You have to buy the additional cutting edge. Personally, my opinion, Kabota is cutting back on the quality of steel in their loaders. My 2001 BX loader has been abused and the cutting edges straight as an arrow and I’ve loaded a lot more gravel with that that loader than that 3901 did in one year. I have a Kabota zero turn and love it, but their loaders and tractors, compact and midsize now I’m not so sure if the quality is the way it used to be.
@@PineyGroveHomestead yeah the loaders week that might happen. That’s funny. I picked up a lot of trees with my loader on the Kioti, on the left side of the grapple or the right side to cut it up. Funny thing is the loader doesn’t give one way or the other. I’m sorry, but you shouldn’t have to worry about your loader bending on a tractor.
First off the chart you displayed with max pressures said fore the l3901 was 2410 psi, Second ballast weight should be the same as the load you intend to lift, one for stability of the tractor , second and just as important the more weight added to the rear of tractor the more weight is removed from the front axle..I know the L3901 very well as I own a 2015 with 1600 hrs that has handled a lot of round hay bails and used the loader with a grapple,bucket pallet forks and hay spear and the tractor is not safe to lift heavy loads without proper ballast. That's just asking for an accident. I've got an 1100 lb ballast barrel and rear wheels stay lanted on ground. most 3 point implements don't weigh near that. Safety should be the first concern.
What I meant to say was if it ain't lifting the rear tires off the ground, then adding ballast won't help it lift more!! This is the one you put Rim Guard in....it shouldn't need anything!
@Jtwizzle The little deeres are incredibly light. Rim Guard is 30% heavier than water so it helps to get more weight exactly where it's needed. This particular tractor has Rim Guard in it, and it's almost to factory recommended ballast weight on the rear. The new trend is bigger frames on the lower power tractor. It really helps make them safer.
@@tireballastserviceofflorid7771 filled tires are great but nothing beats 3 pt ballast. It creates a pivot at the rear axle to help relieve weight on the front axle.
Another informative video Brad Just be careful out there Things can turn ugly real quick been operating tractors dump trucks and such for years God Bless
Kubota is going to have to step up their game here pretty soon or they are going to lose a valued share of the market When you compare their tractors with the competition, they are coming up short. When you compare their tractors Kubotas against TYM, Kioti, LS and others , they don’t have the features nor do they have the performance. You and I both know what we have in our Kubota tractors. I am very happy with mine. No regrets. Very confident that my choice was the right choice for my needs.
Time to Order the "REBUILD Kits" for the front AXLE spindles/ bearings,seals,& gaskets....only about 1800.°°$ complete + 8 hours "Shop-time". ( Kubota luvs selling these 10.°°$ Soup-up kits !! ).
@@PineyGroveHomestead Nice. Yeah, I put their biggest Hydro pump on, cylinders for my loader, curl and backhoe. Very nice difference. Best part is how I can do things with more speed at lower RPM. The funny thing is, I did a lot of yardwork and put the bulk of the hours on stock. The whole time wanting more. Oh well.
Let me share something. If you can just barely lift something, try gently driving forward or reverse, or even alternating, while lifting or curling. This forces the hydraulic system to move fluid differently, avoiding the bypass valve a bit, but just enough to send more flow to the lift valve. Try it, you will see.
I do not believe Deere machines use shims... check the manual..get a gauge (probably need a MALE connector on a Deere) and adjust the screw in the HST...
The purpose of rear ballast isnt to just keep your rear end down, its also to relieve weight and stress on the front axle, the only way to do this is to apply a counter weight on the 3 pt of the tractor. Just adding rim guard does nothing to relieve weight on the front axle. Dont get me wrong, some rim guard in the rear tires helps add a little weight and traction, but it is no replacement for proper counter weight.
At 11:01 you mentioned Zoots Welding Guards - the maker of the guard over your hydraulic connections and filter. Can you provide information on that guard and contact info for the manufacturer?
Appreciate your video, well done.. Few questions.. looking at your provided data, Im curious why you exceeded the man recomended PSI.. Up TO the limit is great, but you exceeded it.. Curious why you chose to do that.. Arnt there now risks to everything directly, and indirectly related to the lift pressure, AND lift capacity of the machine itself? Emediately, Im thinking cylinder and lines, perhaps pump (I dont know) maybe control valves .. And then theres the physical limits from front axle, hub bearings, spindles, wheel studs, arms and attachment points..ect ect. Im not complaining, or attacking.. Im just trying to understand what your considerations were, for exceeding the man recomendations? I'm ignorant and considering purchasing a tractor for my property. I found your video looking at "Kubota" tractor problems, ect.. I get the idea of refreshing the pressure to OEM specs.. rejuvenating .. And obviously you met the limits with that pallet of concrete board.. great test material btw. I supose it would be a little much to weigh a sheet of that, and calculate what that bundle actually weighs.. but it could be done.. Line/pump pressure is one thing.. but the item being lifted is obviously another.. Other videos talk about how the front axles seem "weak" or "unstable" (could be the narrow profile of the rear axle on compact tractors Im guessing) About the rear ballest.. theres options, from rear wheel weights, to liquid filled tires, to attachments.. makes sense..the first two being a more perminent setting, and an attachment being bulky, but temperary.. not ideal for tight spaces, but not a big deal to remove when done lifting either. Sorry.. back to my point.. What were you thinking, when deciding to exceed the recomended limits in PSI? Seems like a calculated risk maybe? Thats why Im asking.. because I dont know about these types of modifications.. and what drawbacks there might be.. can you elaborate a little?
I don't have any Kubota engineering data to back up my thoughts....just want that to be clear!! IMO, Kubota keeps their pressures low (and therefore their lift capability low) to prevent the average user from getting in a bad situation. Also, overloading the axle and frame all the time with the MAX load the tractor is capable of (but set lower by the factory) would likely lead to premature failure of axle seals and other wear items. I don't think the gears would ever be harmed. I occasionally need more lift so going over the factory recommendation is not something I will be doing every day so the risk is really low. The Kubota L series is very well built tractor and many other tractor manufactures are lifting a considerable amount more in the same frame size.
@PineyGroveHomestead Ah.. ok.. so you were thinking about how Kubota and others, regularly under rate their products, mostly for liability and or warranty reasons.. That makes sense.. and I agree.. thankyou for replying.. I thought that might have been your reasoning..just wasnt sure. Im definately looking at the L39 over the BX series..
So i'm just starting to get into farming. This is great info. Here is my question are all tractors computerized nowadays. I do not want any tractor that is run by any kind of computer equipment. What tractor can I buy other than an antique?Is there a new one on the market? Like I'll tell you.I have a twenty twenty honda Fit and they just sent updates to my car period once they did that my car started acting wacky in the computer department. I don't want that in my tractor
For the most part, compact tractors are not computerized like the new Ag sized tractors. Sure, they have sensors and switches that can go bad, but they are pretty reliable. The biggest thing is emissions compliance that started on all tractors larger than 25hp in 2014. They have complicated emission systems that have more points of failure. So if you want to avoid that, buy a 25hp tractor or smaller....or buy something pre-2014. You may find some useful information in this video we did: ua-cam.com/video/WSC7T6DOTcs/v-deo.html
Thank you so much. This will be perfect anyway. We are going have a large property in florida , but it's just a few of us developing it on long weekends. What we get done we get done!
I got a L3940 and have to say for the physical size of the tractor I'm pretty disappointed in the lift capacity. 724 loader so x2.2 is about 1600lbs where the new 60 series that size has a 1075 loader now or something so they have addressed it a bit. And I have filled rear tires and a 800lb + weight I made so it's planted just doesn't have the lift a tractor that size should. And I get it Kubota and Deere and other companies do it so homeowners with little to no experience don't try lifting something they have no business lifting with a sub compact or compact tractor. This shim kit looks quite simple but for some reason I'm more hesitant on messing with my tractor than my vehicles haha I do the maintenance on my tractor and all the fluids and filters but I'm always worried I'm gonna mess something up where as vehicles I been changing oil , brakes and much more for years .
My pressure was not even at specs when I checked it and now it's about 10% above and I have much more lift. Many people will go 25% above but that's a personal decision. I think Kubotas are built heavy enough to have the most lift in the industry but they keep it low for liability reasons.....just my opinion!
I can shimmy around a 2000 pound Concrete block right off a chain on the bucket on a 23 horsepower Mahindra...... And i've never been at full throttle!
The forks for the tractor, or something else? The forks are Land Pride and can be bought at any Kubota dealer. There are much cheaper options out there though in the aftermarket world,
My L2501dt has ballast in the rear tires and i have a 5 foot grader box on the back, bucket and tooth bar on the loader and it will easily lift the back tires. I was gonna do this mod to my tractor also, but its not needed at all with mine. i have never understanded why kubota verys so much from one unit to another.
I'm curious/wanting to play devil's advocate for a second.... sets just say my tractor can pick up the heaviest thing I'll ever need to pick up.... are there any other benefits to upping the pressure?
Always nice to have even more headroom. If you don't have enough/any rear ballast it's probably not worth it. More potential to damage the front axle that way.
@PineyGroveHomestead But if you're talking about in America then maybe we have not woken up to the fact we'd pay for reliability!!!! Because with cobotas having an aluminum transmission that ain't tough
:) If you are not satisfied with the load capacity, just turn the lifting hydraulic cylinder the other way around and it will be about 40% stronger. Simple physics.... P=F/S
@ a lot of people are buying Korean tractors because of the lift capacity. Many of them are not experienced with tractors and don't realize the dangers of lifting that much weight on a tractor that isn't designed to do it safely unless they have a boat load of ballast and counterweight on the rear. People who buy Kubota's I feel buy them for the quality, longevity, safety and resale value. I own Pleasant Valley Landshaping but commenting from my personal account. Enjoy your videos.
Our 3901 “mini” is a tank but she gets a little light when lifting 1000ish pounds. Anything more than that I’m using our 5075. Just ain’t worth the risk of rolling her.
Good morning if you're going to do that to your tractor then you need to do the following saying you need to buy or make a three point hitch weight block for the back of that you can find videos on UA-cam about them you need to get a counter weight on the back of the tractor or someday you're gonna pick something up and really regret it I hope you take this seriously have a wonderful day
I wouldn't mess with the hydraulics, I have sat on a tractor when a line burst and it scared the shit out of me. And, get some ballast so you don't become a statistic.
Kubota does this to keep the operator safe , and even then people are still a danger to themselves , want to lift more buy a bigger machine , and curl your bucket it will lift more .
You realize it will not hurt the tractor no matter how many shims you put in there . Put another full set in there just dont use it like a buldozer. John deer runs a lot higher presure ,thats why they will lift a lot more. They use the same cylinders, hoses and pumps.
ballast comment.. thats not quite true.. I have ballast in my rear tires and a heavy concrete barrel on my WM33 before I can actually max my bucket out. bare tractor without rear tire ballast.. it was absolutely aweful couldnt lift anything.
mx5200 owner here. other than how much easier it would make flipping these bag of feather tractors. the #1 thing about the tractor id be worried about is breaking the front axle assembly or components. take a nice long look at how the front axle is attached. i wouldnt NOT do this to any of these tractors! the destroyed machine will never be worth the few extra lbs and dont forget the additional breakout force added when doing this! i paid $32,000 for my kubota and i would NEVER recommend doing this! and ive put 1200 trouble free hours on it! these machines are not over built like old machines. someone will damage their machine or worse. the operator by adding more lifting capacity!
@MrChevelle83... what you are describing applies to going OVER the factory specs... these kits are not marketed for that purpose. Many machines are not adjusted from the dealership when new during pre-delivery, so many machines are not reaching their full potential when new..this happened to me..which inspired me to develop the kits to help other owners... and the issue gets worse over time as the spring weakens from repeated compress/decompress cycles. Kubota makes theses shims for a REASON, there is nothing wrong with keeping your machines hydraulic pressure adjusted for optimum performance.... the takeaway here is do it responsibly.
There’s a lot more to a tractor than how much it lifts. Kubota doesn’t play the silly marketing game of trying to lift more than the other guy. They specify their loader to be as safe as possible for the size, weight and strength of the tractor. Overloading can twist loader arms, ruin front axles, or flip your tractor over on you. It is true that the pressure can drop over time, and that’s where the shims come in to bump it back up to spec.
@proveallthingsaudits it's called service factor, most things don't have much anymore! If you past the limits it will shorten the life of the machine, how much lift did you gain 200 lbs is that really enough to mater? Just saying 70 years of being a dummy. As a certified welder, machinist, millwright. 👀
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Welcome to our channel! 🎥 What to Watch Next:
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to escape the stresses of corporate life and embrace all that country living
has to offer as we enter the next chapter of our lives. Follow along on our
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Thanks for watching and please Like and Subscribe to help our channel!!
Brad & Deb
Another option that you could look at in the future if you decide you need even more capacity is the Hydro plus cylinders. I believe that would increase your capacity by another 35% or so without the risk of damaging your hydraulic system by adding more shims. With as beefy as the stater L series frame is, I would not hesitate to lift 2000 pounds if it had the ability to do so.
Bless you so much for sharing what our Jailbreak kits can do for Kubota tractors... as a small business, this is the best promotion we can ask for!!! THANK YOU!!!
You're welcome! We are happy to help!
get some fluid in your tires. Either Rimguard or RV Antifreeze which is what I used. Makes a huge difference and I did not see any negative effects from it with regards to ruts in the soil and I use mine with a mid mount mower to mow my yard.
Rear tires are filled with Rim Guard. See video here: ua-cam.com/video/uQmuNvcNsOU/v-deo.html
I had a 3901, and I mentioned this on another of your videos, I found the tractor to be very, very tippy. With a bucket full of gravel held below the hood, and with a box blade on the back, any turns on the slightest slope would pick up a back wheel. I think that's why Kubota underpowers the hydraulics. I had to slam the bucket down many times! That said, it was a good-running machine. I would still probably have it but I needed a more powerful machine.
Did it have R4 tires?
@@PineyGroveHomestead Yes,it did. I actually bought spacers for the rears, but I hadn't installed them by the time I sold it, so the new owner did.
If you want to break something , like blowing cylinders, rack the lifting arms, or roll it over,, have at it. I have a l 3400, for 20 years I know what I'm talking about.
An L3901 is listed 200+ pounds lighter than the 3515. I literally just ordered a 3515ch on Friday. Part of why I did is how heavy the axles are built. When you put 770 lbs of RimGuard in the back tires, the 3515 is about 3800 pounds (4434 with the cab). For me, I’ll be using all that lift capacity. Not to pick something way off the ground and drive, but to be able to manhandle stumps and logs and the occasional rock or concrete, move with it just off the ground, and sometimes lift it over the side of my dump trailer and drop it in. Also comes in handy getting heavy implements and pallets off a truck and immediately lowered. I also have a 1025r, so I’ve spent the last few years living with a tractor that can barely get 1/3 yard of damp clay in a rounded bucket to full height. The lift capacity is a very real and usable feature depending on how you use your equipment. I’ll see as I incorporate the TYM into my small tractor work business, but for comparison, I was quoted almost exactly twice as much for a Deere 3039r with a cab as I was for the 3515ch cab, and the 3515 lifts 800 more lbs on the 3-point and almost 1000 more lbs on the loader. Every penny matters for me. I can’t pay twice as much for much less capability.
I reviewed the TYM 2515. It's called the T3025 now....lifts 2200#. Incredible amount for that frame size. ua-cam.com/video/yprIvGQ0uFA/v-deo.html
4400 is before the weight of the FEL which is another ~1000lbs as well. Make sure to put some good weight on the 3pt too!
Huge difference! Well worth the time to adjust. Nice work!
Thanks bro! Now it can lift as much as your BX!
TYM makes an excellent tractor, that’s based on many hours of usage on more than one model. Also there’s a lot that goes into pricing. I’m not biased towards any tractor (at least any modern production tractor lol), I like some models of about every brand, but facts are facts, that said for the money spent a person buying a TYM is money ahead. They just offer more for the money and it comes with reliability!
TYM makes a good tractor but Kubota is the leader in smooth hydraulics. We reviewed the TYM 2515 here: ua-cam.com/video/yprIvGQ0uFA/v-deo.html
I've owned multiple Deere, Kubota, New Holland and Massey Ferguson, everything from 30hp up to 100hp. I replaced two tractors 4 years ago, and I went with MF for a long list of reasons, but two of them were the substantial difference in hydraulic flow and lifting capacity. I have a 4707 75hp and a 1835m 36hp. Lifting capacity is amazing. If you load it enough either will lift the back tires off the ground even at an idle. I run an 18" hydraulic auger on both but I usually just use the little one because it's plenty. I can drill a 3 ft deep hole in this hard clay in a minute or two. I'm not trashing Deere or Kubota, but I've owned them all and the MF kicks their butts. New Holland utility tractors are nowhere close to any of these, based on the two I have owned.
Like this fella with the forks, do have any rear ballast when lifting the rear tires? I think Kubota is worried about liability by limiting hydraulic pressure, BECAUSE many operators do not have enough rear ballast. Is a rear rototiller enough ballast for lifting and transporting 1100 pounds? I have a BX25 and increased my hydraulic pressure with a couple of washers under the pressure relief spring, and can lift six sheets of 4 x 8 x 1" sheets of plywood(each weighs about 90 pounds) on the forks, in front of the FEL bucket. Whatever the lift at the pins are, I have no idea, and I have no idea what the actual hydraulic pressure is. BUT it works for me. PS The backhoe sometimes with a 300 pound boulder is my ballast.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 If I need to move something really heavy I can hang something off the back for ballast. I rarely run into that problem because I have the bigger tractor for those loads. I think it lifts something like 4700 lbs. at the pins. But I've done it with the smaller tractor and usually something like a bushhog hanging off the back. Works great. A rototiller should be more than enough.
I went through a lot of tractors before deciding on new ones to add to my farm I picked up a massey ferguson 5712s (120hp) its specs blew the competition out of the water, it'll lift 4800~ on the loader and 11400 on the 3pt.
The other is a little massey 1835m its a mighty little machine, it'll lift a 1200 pound square bale on the front and rear with absolutely no problem.
@@shanedevon147 The 5712 is a beast! We only have about 90 acres and I've found the 4707 is enough for my needs. It pulls a 15' batwing with no problem and I want to say the lifting capacity is something around 3500. But the 1835m is the one that gets used all the time. Bucket, grapple, post auger, pallet forks - it handles them all. And you're right - the specs on both blow the competition out of the water.
Whats truly crazy is the difference in lifting capacity on 100hp class tractors unballasted with the exception of iron centers from old tracrors say 806/826/856 to the later such as JX95 etc
I always feel much smarter after both watching and listening to Brad from Piney Grove! Thanks for sharing and great content!
Thanks. It was much easier that I thought. Moving the camera was the hardest part!
I was blinded by the sun couple weeks planning to dump bucket of durt. It was a little high n when i moved foward it rolled on.me. ouch. Called neighbors and two trucks with long chains to stand it back up and off me. ( No roll bar. But soon) learned a ruff lesson. Dandahermit
Just bought one through your affiliate link, came across your video this morning althugh I have seen vids of this mod before, your video convinced me plus I like this kit has a gauge with it, which I also need- AND I am doing some big stumps right now!
Fortunately I have a KX040 to help out!
I like that it's plug and play! We have a KX71....Kubota minis are great machines!
@@PineyGroveHomestead is that a kx71 7ton from the same era? Replaced now by the kx080? Dang that aint a mini anymore!! Hehe- happy day, thanks for the Psalms in your video too!
@@zeebeefpv2273 Oh no....it's a 6300# machine! Deb on it here: ua-cam.com/video/vdCOuLp6nl0/v-deo.html
I did the shim thing on my little BX22 a couple of years ago when I was going to be moving about 60 ton of stone plus a bout 20 more ton of soil for the site prep for my shop building. It absolutely made a difference.
I'm noticing a big difference! Thanks for watching.
I'm sorry to say the reason it is designed to lift those amounts is so amateur weekend tractor operators don't kill themselves. They also don't want to warranty damage from inexperienced operators either. If you are going to increase lift you had definitely increase the ballast.
@@danielhenebry223 There is certainly some truth to what you mention, but as a Kubota owner since 2000, I also found that the suboptimal lift capacity also had some degradation over time. Using the shims got it back to "a bit better than new". And the backhoe that never comes off my BX22 weighs not quite twice the FEL capacity.
@@danielhenebry223 That doesn't explain why every other manufacture lifts more. The liability is the same.
For those who up the hyd. Pressure make sure your hyd. Hoses are in good shape.
You will find out quick if they are weak!
Also make sure your tractor is no longer under warranty, probably would cause some warranty issues with the hydraulic system if something hydraulic related failed.
@@wildbill23c ..just stay within spec... these shims are made by Kubota for adjustment..nothing shady or wrong about going up to the max recommended pressure....
@@jailbreakyourtractor Then why do they have such a fit if you take a tractor that's been shimmed in for warranty work?
@@wildbill23c Because some people abuse this.. such as adding shims with no gauge until it "feels" right... and they end up bending cylinders and busting hoses, and even ruining the pump itself. Some people push it too far even WITH a gauge because they are so focused on what they want to do vs. what the machine is capable of.. when in reality they just need a bigger machine. If your machine is under warranty I would definitely stay at or under the recommended pressure, but used RESPONSIBLY, shims are simply how your pressure is supposed to be adjusted on most Kubota units.
I had that same tractor with a backhoe attachment. I had a smaller BX tractor for many years and still have it. The loader on that 3901 was crooked, always crooked and the dealer couldn’t straighten it. It would never set down on the ground level. Also, the loader would wobble. It was weak when hauling gravel in the bucket. And the lift capacity is terrible. Also, when loading gravel, the pump is so weak because it’s a single hydraulic pump, the power steering quits so you can’t turn the front wheels. After a year I sold the tractor. I bought a smaller coyote. The loader is solid and straight as an arrow and lift capacity is higher. I absolutely love Kabota engines, but they’re quality has gone down. Also the bucket cutting edge wore unbelievably fast. You have to buy the additional cutting edge. Personally, my opinion, Kabota is cutting back on the quality of steel in their loaders. My 2001 BX loader has been abused and the cutting edges straight as an arrow and I’ve loaded a lot more gravel with that that loader than that 3901 did in one year. I have a Kabota zero turn and love it, but their loaders and tractors, compact and midsize now I’m not so sure if the quality is the way it used to be.
My loader is bent too, but that's because I bought it used from a friend that picked up a tree wrong!!
@@PineyGroveHomestead yeah the loaders week that might happen. That’s funny. I picked up a lot of trees with my loader on the Kioti, on the left side of the grapple or the right side to cut it up. Funny thing is the loader doesn’t give one way or the other. I’m sorry, but you shouldn’t have to worry about your loader bending on a tractor.
@@PineyGroveHomestead if its a mini tweak, like an inch or two, it can be bent back straight by lowing a full bucket onto stump on the low side.
First off the chart you displayed with max pressures said fore the l3901 was 2410 psi, Second ballast weight should be the same as the load you intend to lift, one for stability of the tractor , second and just as important the more weight added to the rear of tractor the more weight is removed from the front axle..I know the L3901 very well as I own a 2015 with 1600 hrs that has handled a lot of round hay bails and used the loader with a grapple,bucket pallet forks and hay spear and the tractor is not safe to lift heavy loads without proper ballast. That's just asking for an accident. I've got an 1100 lb ballast barrel and rear wheels stay lanted on ground. most 3 point implements don't weigh near that. Safety should be the first concern.
I'd go by the Kubota specs...not what a UA-camr says! We don't always get it right in front of the camera.
Totally awesome video, what more can a person expect?
Thanks for watching.
This is powerful Innovation
The power of a little washer!
Like the channel. Thank you for the Scripture. I can never get enough of the Word.
We try to incorporate faith into our lives and work!
Ballast definitely effects how much can be lifted. And how safely. Got a new service truck ready to roll if ya need it.
What I meant to say was if it ain't lifting the rear tires off the ground, then adding ballast won't help it lift more!! This is the one you put Rim Guard in....it shouldn't need anything!
@PineyGroveHomestead Maybe on the kubota, but the 2515 needs filled tires and 800+lbs of 3pt ballast to stay planted. For its size its incredible.
@Jtwizzle The little deeres are incredibly light. Rim Guard is 30% heavier than water so it helps to get more weight exactly where it's needed. This particular tractor has Rim Guard in it, and it's almost to factory recommended ballast weight on the rear. The new trend is bigger frames on the lower power tractor. It really helps make them safer.
@@Jtwizzle true, the XX15 old Branson line (TYM) lifts 2200# and that's way more what the Kubota L-series can lift.
@@tireballastserviceofflorid7771 filled tires are great but nothing beats 3 pt ballast. It creates a pivot at the rear axle to help relieve weight on the front axle.
Another informative video Brad Just be careful out there Things can turn ugly real quick been operating tractors dump trucks and such for years God Bless
Very true. I don't like lifting heavy things.....I get them on the ground as soon as possible. Thanks for watching!
Good morning Brad ☕️☕️
Good morning!
try it again with a new spring and see if there's a difference.
It had some shims in it from Kubota. Works great now....like a new tractor!
Kubota is going to have to step up their game here pretty soon or they are going to lose a valued share of the market
When you compare their tractors with the competition, they are coming up short.
When you compare their tractors Kubotas against TYM, Kioti, LS and others , they don’t have the features nor do they have the performance.
You and I both know what we have in our Kubota tractors.
I am very happy with mine. No regrets. Very confident that my choice was the right choice for my needs.
Thanks for stopping by Gary. The biggest issue with Kubota is their pricing.....great machines, but they are like 20% more than the competition!
Time to Order the "REBUILD Kits" for the front AXLE spindles/ bearings,seals,& gaskets....only about 1800.°°$ complete + 8 hours "Shop-time". ( Kubota luvs selling these 10.°°$ Soup-up kits !! ).
Just because you have extra lift capability doesn't mean you are going to use it everyday. Kubota makes a strong axle.
my 2501 will lift until the Rimgaurd filled rear tires come off the ground with the backhoe attached. Not a great feeling.
Wonder if Hydro-plus makes cylinders for that model ? I know they started Kubota awhile ago.
She woke up and is alive now!
@@PineyGroveHomestead Nice. Yeah, I put their biggest Hydro pump on, cylinders for my loader, curl and backhoe. Very nice difference. Best part is how I can do things with more speed at lower RPM. The funny thing is, I did a lot of yardwork and put the bulk of the hours on stock. The whole time wanting more. Oh well.
Let me share something. If you can just barely lift something, try gently driving forward or reverse, or even alternating, while lifting or curling. This forces the hydraulic system to move fluid differently, avoiding the bypass valve a bit, but just enough to send more flow to the lift valve. Try it, you will see.
Good tip!
Great video Brad
Great video, do they make a jailbreak kit for John Deere tractors
I'm not sure how JD increases their pressure....I've never owned one. Thanks for watching.
I do not believe Deere machines use shims... check the manual..get a gauge (probably need a MALE connector on a Deere) and adjust the screw in the HST...
The purpose of rear ballast isnt to just keep your rear end down, its also to relieve weight and stress on the front axle, the only way to do this is to apply a counter weight on the 3 pt of the tractor. Just adding rim guard does nothing to relieve weight on the front axle.
Dont get me wrong, some rim guard in the rear tires helps add a little weight and traction, but it is no replacement for proper counter weight.
Love your videos keep so much keep up the great work
Glad you enjoy. thanks for watching!
At 11:01 you mentioned Zoots Welding Guards - the maker of the guard over your hydraulic connections and filter. Can you provide information on that guard and contact info for the manufacturer?
The install of those guards are in this video: ua-cam.com/video/hbZzAOSQTHE/v-deo.html
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it
Remember the front axles are designed for a set load.
Appreciate your video, well done..
Few questions.. looking at your provided data, Im curious why you exceeded the man recomended PSI..
Up TO the limit is great, but you exceeded it..
Curious why you chose to do that..
Arnt there now risks to everything directly, and indirectly related to the lift pressure, AND lift capacity of the machine itself?
Emediately, Im thinking cylinder and lines, perhaps pump (I dont know) maybe control valves ..
And then theres the physical limits from front axle, hub bearings, spindles, wheel studs, arms and attachment points..ect ect.
Im not complaining, or attacking..
Im just trying to understand what your considerations were, for exceeding the man recomendations?
I'm ignorant and considering purchasing a tractor for my property.
I found your video looking at "Kubota" tractor problems, ect..
I get the idea of refreshing the pressure to OEM specs.. rejuvenating ..
And obviously you met the limits with that pallet of concrete board.. great test material btw.
I supose it would be a little much to weigh a sheet of that, and calculate what that bundle actually weighs.. but it could be done..
Line/pump pressure is one thing.. but the item being lifted is obviously another..
Other videos talk about how the front axles seem "weak" or "unstable" (could be the narrow profile of the rear axle on compact tractors Im guessing)
About the rear ballest.. theres options, from rear wheel weights, to liquid filled tires, to attachments.. makes sense..the first two being a more perminent setting, and an attachment being bulky, but temperary.. not ideal for tight spaces, but not a big deal to remove when done lifting either.
Sorry.. back to my point..
What were you thinking, when deciding to exceed the recomended limits in PSI?
Seems like a calculated risk maybe? Thats why Im asking.. because I dont know about these types of modifications.. and what drawbacks there might be.. can you elaborate a little?
I don't have any Kubota engineering data to back up my thoughts....just want that to be clear!! IMO, Kubota keeps their pressures low (and therefore their lift capability low) to prevent the average user from getting in a bad situation. Also, overloading the axle and frame all the time with the MAX load the tractor is capable of (but set lower by the factory) would likely lead to premature failure of axle seals and other wear items. I don't think the gears would ever be harmed. I occasionally need more lift so going over the factory recommendation is not something I will be doing every day so the risk is really low. The Kubota L series is very well built tractor and many other tractor manufactures are lifting a considerable amount more in the same frame size.
@PineyGroveHomestead Ah.. ok.. so you were thinking about how Kubota and others, regularly under rate their products, mostly for liability and or warranty reasons..
That makes sense.. and I agree.. thankyou for replying.. I thought that might have been your reasoning..just wasnt sure.
Im definately looking at the L39 over the BX series..
@@j9soundlabs719 You might find this video useful: ua-cam.com/video/WSC7T6DOTcs/v-deo.html
So i'm just starting to get into farming. This is great info. Here is my question are all tractors computerized nowadays. I do not want any tractor that is run by any kind of computer equipment. What tractor can I buy other than an antique?Is there a new one on the market? Like I'll tell you.I have a twenty twenty honda Fit and they just sent updates to my car period once they did that my car started acting wacky in the computer department. I don't want that in my tractor
For the most part, compact tractors are not computerized like the new Ag sized tractors. Sure, they have sensors and switches that can go bad, but they are pretty reliable. The biggest thing is emissions compliance that started on all tractors larger than 25hp in 2014. They have complicated emission systems that have more points of failure. So if you want to avoid that, buy a 25hp tractor or smaller....or buy something pre-2014. You may find some useful information in this video we did: ua-cam.com/video/WSC7T6DOTcs/v-deo.html
Thank you so much. This will be perfect anyway. We are going have a large property in florida , but it's just a few of us developing it on long weekends. What we get done we get done!
I got a L3940 and have to say for the physical size of the tractor I'm pretty disappointed in the lift capacity. 724 loader so x2.2 is about 1600lbs where the new 60 series that size has a 1075 loader now or something so they have addressed it a bit. And I have filled rear tires and a 800lb + weight I made so it's planted just doesn't have the lift a tractor that size should. And I get it Kubota and Deere and other companies do it so homeowners with little to no experience don't try lifting something they have no business lifting with a sub compact or compact tractor. This shim kit looks quite simple but for some reason I'm more hesitant on messing with my tractor than my vehicles haha I do the maintenance on my tractor and all the fluids and filters but I'm always worried I'm gonna mess something up where as vehicles I been changing oil , brakes and much more for years .
My pressure was not even at specs when I checked it and now it's about 10% above and I have much more lift. Many people will go 25% above but that's a personal decision. I think Kubotas are built heavy enough to have the most lift in the industry but they keep it low for liability reasons.....just my opinion!
I can shimmy around a 2000 pound Concrete block right off a chain on the bucket on a 23 horsepower Mahindra...... And i've never been at full throttle!
Very informative. TKS.
Thanks for watching!
Where did you get that folk attachment?
The forks for the tractor, or something else? The forks are Land Pride and can be bought at any Kubota dealer. There are much cheaper options out there though in the aftermarket world,
My L2501dt has ballast in the rear tires and i have a 5 foot grader box on the back, bucket and tooth bar on the loader and it will easily lift the back tires. I was gonna do this mod to my tractor also, but its not needed at all with mine. i have never understanded why kubota verys so much from one unit to another.
If it lifts what you need it to, then you're good! I needed this tractor to at least lift the basic specs!
No 3point counter weight.for your safety.
I'm curious/wanting to play devil's advocate for a second.... sets just say my tractor can pick up the heaviest thing I'll ever need to pick up.... are there any other benefits to upping the pressure?
Nope. I'd leave it at factory settings!
Always nice to have even more headroom. If you don't have enough/any rear ballast it's probably not worth it. More potential to damage the front axle that way.
No Mahendra is number one thanks for playing!!!!
Number one for what?
@PineyGroveHomestead Number one selling tractor worldwide.
By far
@PineyGroveHomestead But if you're talking about in America then maybe we have not woken up to the fact we'd pay for reliability!!!! Because with cobotas having an aluminum transmission that ain't tough
@@AmericanRusticWoodworks Sounds like you have the machine for you!!
:) If you are not satisfied with the load capacity, just turn the lifting hydraulic cylinder the other way around and it will be about 40% stronger. Simple physics.... P=F/S
Are your rear tires loaded?
Yes with Rim Guard. See the video here: ua-cam.com/video/uQmuNvcNsOU/v-deo.html
@ a lot of people are buying Korean tractors because of the lift capacity. Many of them are not experienced with tractors and don't realize the dangers of lifting that much weight on a tractor that isn't designed to do it safely unless they have a boat load of ballast and counterweight on the rear. People who buy Kubota's I feel buy them for the quality, longevity, safety and resale value.
I own Pleasant Valley Landshaping but commenting from my personal account. Enjoy your videos.
A skid loader is a better choice for moving heavy stuff you need over 50 hp over loading small tractors will wear them out and make them break soon
Agree but there is a huge price difference! Skid steer: $100K This kit: $100
Our 3901 “mini” is a tank but she gets a little light when lifting 1000ish pounds. Anything more than that I’m using our 5075. Just ain’t worth the risk of rolling her.
1000# is a lot of weight for these tractors for sure!
You need filled tires today!
We got 'em! Video here: ua-cam.com/video/uQmuNvcNsOU/v-deo.html
Good morning if you're going to do that to your tractor then you need to do the following saying you need to buy or make a three point hitch weight block for the back of that you can find videos on UA-cam about them you need to get a counter weight on the back of the tractor or someday you're gonna pick something up and really regret it I hope you take this seriously have a wonderful day
That is correct!
I wouldn't mess with the hydraulics, I have sat on a tractor when a line burst and it scared the shit out of me.
And, get some ballast so you don't become a statistic.
You can certainly over do it! Thanks for watching.
My Yanmar is described as having 1100lb lift - it can't even pick up 50 gallons of water😂
Kubota does this to keep the operator safe , and even then people are still a danger to themselves , want to lift more buy a bigger machine , and curl your bucket it will lift more .
You realize it will not hurt the tractor no matter how many shims you put in there . Put another full set in there just dont use it like a buldozer. John deer runs a lot higher presure ,thats why they will lift a lot more. They use the same cylinders, hoses and pumps.
Too much pressure and lines might start leaking! I don't John Deere is known for their high lift capacity in compact tractors.
Who’s this, “Shirley”?
She's my imaginary tractor helper!!
Super informative video and may be time to jail break my Kubota too.
I love the extra lift.........come in handy a couple of time already since this video.
@@PineyGroveHomestead good to know there for sure.
Once your pressure relief is opening increasing the rpm doesn’t get you anything
Need shorter forks also.
Why?
For what your tractor cost, its lift is silly. My 1974 simplicty 9020 can lift 750 lbs. I consider it a toy compared to our tym 474h
The 474 is a larger frame tractor than the L3901
ballast comment.. thats not quite true.. I have ballast in my rear tires and a heavy concrete barrel on my WM33 before I can actually max my bucket out. bare tractor without rear tire ballast.. it was absolutely aweful couldnt lift anything.
First🎉
mx5200 owner here. other than how much easier it would make flipping these bag of feather tractors. the #1 thing about the tractor id be worried about is breaking the front axle assembly or components. take a nice long look at how the front axle is attached.
i wouldnt NOT do this to any of these tractors! the destroyed machine will never be worth the few extra lbs and dont forget the additional breakout force added when doing this! i paid $32,000 for my kubota and i would NEVER recommend doing this! and ive put 1200 trouble free hours on it! these machines are not over built like old machines. someone will damage their machine or worse. the operator by adding more lifting capacity!
It’s always good to be cautious with any modifications!
@MrChevelle83... what you are describing applies to going OVER the factory specs... these kits are not marketed for that purpose. Many machines are not adjusted from the dealership when new during pre-delivery, so many machines are not reaching their full potential when new..this happened to me..which inspired me to develop the kits to help other owners... and the issue gets worse over time as the spring weakens from repeated compress/decompress cycles. Kubota makes theses shims for a REASON, there is nothing wrong with keeping your machines hydraulic pressure adjusted for optimum performance.... the takeaway here is do it responsibly.
Fill your tires immediately
Been done. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/uQmuNvcNsOU/v-deo.html
Over built yet they go light on lift. They don't want the roll overs.
Worried about bending the frame ?
Not at all....these loaders are built very heavy.
Switch to TYM!!!
This tractor is paid for!!!
@@PineyGroveHomestead Come on now....Three youtube videos will pay for it!!!
There’s a lot more to a tractor than how much it lifts. Kubota doesn’t play the silly marketing game of trying to lift more than the other guy. They specify their loader to be as safe as possible for the size, weight and strength of the tractor. Overloading can twist loader arms, ruin front axles, or flip your tractor over on you. It is true that the pressure can drop over time, and that’s where the shims come in to bump it back up to spec.
Add more shims ,what you did won't amount to a hill of beans.
It made a big difference.
I wonder if this would work on my Kubota b 2320 I have Lyft problem with it
Yes, it will.
You feel like? Must be smarter than the engineer's 🎉 buy a bigger tractor.
Always a dummy in the comments.... there is nothing wrong with getting your tractor to maximum specs the ENGINEERS say it can handle...
@proveallthingsaudits it's called service factor, most things don't have much anymore! If you past the limits it will shorten the life of the machine, how much lift did you gain 200 lbs is that really enough to mater? Just saying 70 years of being a dummy. As a certified welder, machinist, millwright. 👀
Liar
There is nothing untrue or fake in this video.....back under your rock, troll.
How about keeping religion out of it - some of us think for ourselves
If we lose a view because we believe in God, we're OK with that.
Yes, and that's why you are in the position you don't have to be in. Jesus is the Lord of all, even those who don't follow Him.