Great video. I haven't flow for a few years, but I always like to "review" some of this tx and heli programming stuff. I used to be an advanced flyer with my skill level best described as doing everything regular and inverted maneuvers "but just below competent piroflipping". My Futaba 7ch with 5 point curves was uniquely setup, as follows: a.) Throttle Curve: 100-100-100-100-100% @ normal toggle position 0-0-0-0-0% @ idle 1 toggle position 0-0-0-0-0% @ idle 2 toggle position b.) Pitch Curve: 0-15-50-85-100%, which corresponds to 0%=full negative and 100%=full positive pitch. Expo=0% The jump to 15 and 85%'s create kind of an expo response without using expo. This is preferable than using expo. c.) Throttle Hold toggle: Pitch= same Throttle curve=0-0-0-0-0% It seems dangerous, but with 2 toggles for throttle cut and motor speed control set on "soft start". It is very safe. It takes 2 toggle flips to activate the motor. So, any "accidental" bump on one toggle will not cause starting. Toggle bumping happens periodically, but 2 toggles to bump is basically impossible. However, you must always start with throttle stick in the "middle position". However, flying inverted and flipping all the time, keep the stick in the middle becomes instinctive. Plus, as you launch just before toggle switch flipping, you always jiggle your controls before start. You "should" never make the mistake of leaving throttle stick all the way down. Also, at this skill level, I no longer felt the need to stabilize and hover before landing. I just cut throttle and autorotation landed. No wasting time. Go up high, dive, cut throttle and do a routine autorotation, or just do a simple "straight down" auto landing. Anything bigger than 500 size will pretty much land on it's own from 5-10. Cut throttle and hands off the tx. No problem. When flying at an advanced level you only fly about 3-4 minutes, so high rpm consuming battery run time never an issue. Until the battery got old,. When battery got old you had to gradually reduce the fly time alarm, because you can actually hear the rpms dropping earlier and earlier. Main thing is you want flight time to correspond to consistent power and rpm. Otherwise, reduced headspeed changes the control response of the heli and directly affects your maneuvers. Also, the throttle curve should never be programmed with a v-curve, because even when you are at 0 pitch you might be flipping from inverted to regular or regular/inverted or flipping continuously. That rapid change in pitch puts an enormous load on the motor. You don't want the motor to speed up or slow down. In addition, if you keep your flight times short you should set throttle curves to a flat 100% on the throttle, not a flat 90% or 85"...because the speed control will last longer and cooler at 100%, because it does "less work" than at 90%, 85%,...etc. Counter-intuitive, right. So, using idle 1 and idle 2 where you continually change heli throttle and response is only for beginners, or you want to get max flight time at higher economy. For 3d maneuvers you want the best head speed and control whether inverted or non-inverted. Especially, when you are flipping continuously. Thus, you end up simplifying things and always fly idle up. Phew, that was a long one, but it was mainly a mental refresher for me. Possibly, some flexing of my knowledge/experience, that I used to have. However, I hope some people found it informative. Keep on. RC Heli Forever!!!!
@@RCStuffvideos Awesome you were able to keep up. I like to leave comments like this, also for my own archive. Anyways, thanks for keeping the hobby alive. Flying RC heli is an art. Flying a drone is not, because you can simply flip a switch and pick up your starbucks coffee and watch it go to way points. Even worse, these robotic drone shows with thousands of drones are all supercomputer controlled. Zero art. Zero human coordination.
@@trexinvertYeah its a bit annoying when people confuse helis with drones. I was flying on a little beach once and some people walked by and said " oh I bet you got some great photos today". I just thought "omg. are you serious?" But yeah it's all about drones these days. Far far less effort with building, learning technical things, ease of flight etc. I have a drone too but it's just completely different. It's a photography/videography tool whereas helis are for fun and excitement. I'm going to do a heli v drone video at some point too.
@@RCStuffvideos Hah, reminds me how once i went out to fly my RC airplane and some kids which were passing by, yelled something like 'oh look, a drone!', it was annoying to hear :)
@@brsrc759 but actually having said that the dx4 is just 4 channels of course and I think the blade mcpx needs a 6 channel transmitter. www.bladehelis.com/product/mcpx-bl2-bnf-basic-with-as3x-and-safe/BLH6050.html Just checked the dx4 manual and it says its for aeroplanes. Collective pitch helicopters will need more channels. So to answer your question you'll need a different transmitter.
@@RCStuffvideos okay cool. I think I have a DX7 buried somewhere in my closet. I guess it's time to start digging. I did get it to fly just fine in fixed pitch mode with the dx4e so that's cool for now. I appreciate your time my friend! Aloha from Maui. 😎🤙🏼
im sure you could do a better job. maybe youre speaking to people who already know how to fly, and program their radios, judging by the positive comments. Sorry, im not in that group. I think the explanation was ambiguous the entirety . the only thing understandable was is that N, 1 2 are different. Differentiate whether you are talking about the pitch of the blade, vs the pitch of the helicopter. that not trivial, because they use different sticks, No? talk about one function and explain it well. then, bring in another topic once that stick has been fully explained. I think you were all over the place. read thru your transscript for ambiguity to a novice, and youll see what i mean. cheers. I'll equally applaud a better video.
See you lost me start talking about speed and then throttle you don’t have a throttle that’s for nitrous so normal people flying nitro (jk)fly but all these electric guys don’t have a throttle there’s volt increase just call volt increase to the motor Just giving you a hard time thanks for the video
Expo explained: ua-cam.com/video/kqQ-rE1O5do/v-deo.html
Dual rates explained: ua-cam.com/video/Son7FiO2fmE/v-deo.html
In this 1 short video I have a better understanding of the curves than all of the 30min in depth I have seen thus far. Thank you
Hi thanks for the comment, glad it helped.
These 3 minutes answered around 3000 questions i had :) great
Awesome. Glad it helped
As always very clear. Thanks
Wow! You explained this so well. Thank you!
Thanks David.
The video I wanted I was searching for hours
Great simple explanation.
Great video. I haven't flow for a few years, but I always like to "review" some of this tx and heli programming stuff.
I used to be an advanced flyer with my skill level best described as doing everything regular and inverted maneuvers "but just below competent piroflipping".
My Futaba 7ch with 5 point curves was uniquely setup, as follows:
a.) Throttle Curve: 100-100-100-100-100% @ normal toggle position
0-0-0-0-0% @ idle 1 toggle position
0-0-0-0-0% @ idle 2 toggle position
b.) Pitch Curve: 0-15-50-85-100%, which corresponds to 0%=full negative and 100%=full positive pitch. Expo=0%
The jump to 15 and 85%'s create kind of an expo response without using expo. This is preferable than using expo.
c.) Throttle Hold toggle:
Pitch= same
Throttle curve=0-0-0-0-0%
It seems dangerous, but with 2 toggles for throttle cut and motor speed control set on "soft start". It is very safe.
It takes 2 toggle flips to activate the motor. So, any "accidental" bump on one toggle will not cause starting.
Toggle bumping happens periodically, but 2 toggles to bump is basically impossible.
However, you must always start with throttle stick in the "middle position". However, flying inverted and flipping all the time, keep the stick in the middle becomes instinctive.
Plus, as you launch just before toggle switch flipping, you always jiggle your controls before start. You "should" never make the mistake of leaving throttle stick all the way down.
Also, at this skill level, I no longer felt the need to stabilize and hover before landing. I just cut throttle and autorotation landed. No wasting time.
Go up high, dive, cut throttle and do a routine autorotation, or just do a simple "straight down" auto landing. Anything bigger than 500 size will pretty much land on it's own from 5-10. Cut throttle and hands off the tx. No problem.
When flying at an advanced level you only fly about 3-4 minutes, so high rpm consuming battery run time never an issue. Until the battery got old,. When battery got old you had to gradually reduce the fly time alarm, because you can actually hear the rpms dropping earlier and earlier. Main thing is you want flight time to correspond to consistent power and rpm. Otherwise, reduced headspeed changes the control response of the heli and directly affects your maneuvers.
Also, the throttle curve should never be programmed with a v-curve, because even when you are at 0 pitch you might be flipping from inverted to regular or regular/inverted or flipping continuously.
That rapid change in pitch puts an enormous load on the motor. You don't want the motor to speed up or slow down. In addition, if you keep your flight times short you should set throttle curves to a flat 100% on the throttle, not a flat 90% or 85"...because the speed control will last longer and cooler at 100%, because it does "less work" than at 90%, 85%,...etc. Counter-intuitive, right.
So, using idle 1 and idle 2 where you continually change heli throttle and response is only for beginners, or you want to get max flight time at higher economy.
For 3d maneuvers you want the best head speed and control whether inverted or non-inverted.
Especially, when you are flipping continuously. Thus, you end up simplifying things and always fly idle up.
Phew, that was a long one, but it was mainly a mental refresher for me. Possibly, some flexing of my knowledge/experience, that I used to have.
However, I hope some people found it informative.
Keep on. RC Heli Forever!!!!
Wow. Had to make a coffee and sit down for that one. Thanks.
@@RCStuffvideos Awesome you were able to keep up. I like to leave comments like this, also for my own archive. Anyways, thanks for keeping the hobby alive. Flying RC heli is an art. Flying a drone is not, because you can simply flip a switch and pick up your starbucks coffee and watch it go to way points. Even worse, these robotic drone shows with thousands of drones are all supercomputer controlled. Zero art. Zero human coordination.
@@trexinvertYeah its a bit annoying when people confuse helis with drones. I was flying on a little beach once and some people walked by and said " oh I bet you got some great photos today". I just thought "omg. are you serious?" But yeah it's all about drones these days. Far far less effort with building, learning technical things, ease of flight etc. I have a drone too but it's just completely different. It's a photography/videography tool whereas helis are for fun and excitement. I'm going to do a heli v drone video at some point too.
@@RCStuffvideos Hah, reminds me how once i went out to fly my RC airplane and some kids which were passing by, yelled something like 'oh look, a drone!', it was annoying to hear :)
I've just got into flying planes,love it😀👌 subscribed 👍 👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Excelent!
Thank you for explaining clearly. How tight should the throttle stick be on the transmitter?
Hey my pleasure. Your choice really. Loose enough so there's no real resistance but tight enough so it doesn't move on its own it you let go
Do you know how to get the dx4e into idle up mode with a blade mcpx?
Sorry I don't. I don't have any experience with either of those I'm afraid.
@@RCStuffvideos okay ..well thank you for the reply
@@brsrc759 but actually having said that the dx4 is just 4 channels of course and I think the blade mcpx needs a 6 channel transmitter. www.bladehelis.com/product/mcpx-bl2-bnf-basic-with-as3x-and-safe/BLH6050.html
Just checked the dx4 manual and it says its for aeroplanes. Collective pitch helicopters will need more channels. So to answer your question you'll need a different transmitter.
@@RCStuffvideos okay cool. I think I have a DX7 buried somewhere in my closet. I guess it's time to start digging. I did get it to fly just fine in fixed pitch mode with the dx4e so that's cool for now. I appreciate your time my friend! Aloha from Maui. 😎🤙🏼
👍👍👍
im sure you could do a better job. maybe youre speaking to people who already know how to fly, and program their radios, judging by the positive comments. Sorry, im not in that group. I think the explanation was ambiguous the entirety . the only thing understandable was is that N, 1 2 are different. Differentiate whether you are talking about the pitch of the blade, vs the pitch of the helicopter. that not trivial, because they use different sticks, No? talk about one function and explain it well. then, bring in another topic once that stick has been fully explained. I think you were all over the place. read thru your transscript for ambiguity to a novice, and youll see what i mean. cheers. I'll equally applaud a better video.
See you lost me start talking about speed and then throttle you don’t have a throttle that’s for nitrous so normal people flying nitro (jk)fly but all these electric guys don’t have a throttle there’s volt increase just call volt increase to the motor Just giving you a hard time thanks for the video
Haha only just seen this. OK I'll call it volt increase from now on lol