2014-18 GMC Sierra Silverado 5.3L L83 fuel injector replacement
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- Опубліковано 26 тра 2019
- GM trucks 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 trucks.
5.3L V8 L83 Direct Injection replacement instructions.
GM GMC Chevrolet Sierra Silverado 1500 2500 Z71
I searched everywhere for something on these trucks. Nothing out there! So here you go. You’re welcome.
Watch video all the way through first so you know what to expect, what tools you’ll need, and plan in 6-8 hours depending on skill. It’ll be faster just by having this video since I had to figure out as I went along. I’d say medium to medium-advanced skill level.
Tools needed:
Quick disconnect fuel line tool
1/4 and 3/8 drive
3” 4 or 5” extensions for sockets
10mm and 13mm standard sockets 1/4 or 3/8 drive
Flathead screwdriver
3” duct or masking tape
Rubber mallet or hammer
Needle nose pliers
A small cap of clean oil to lube gaskets
Bucket to drain gas from fuel rails - Розваги
2024 and I am just getting ready to do this on a '14.
Really good vid. Thanks
I wished I had a stand or someone to hold the camera. It could have been better. But at least it's enough information to get in there and take care of things. Good luck!
I literally fought that cover for 10 minutes before I said let’s UA-cam this. Good info. Thank you!
THIS was a BEAUTIFUL video. Fantastic job capturing the details necessary. I'm currently troubleshooting mine. Got it down to the pressure sensor on the fuel rails, and this basically was everything I needed to see. Currently the controller is calling for the ~ 1100 PSI setpoint, but the sensor is showing 50. There's no way a DI engine would run w/ 50 PSI gauge pressure, so I assume it's maxed the pump out and flooding it... which is why I had gas in my oil after a recent misfire =\.
It looks like that pressure sensor is quite accessible on the end of the fuel rail to me.
Thanks again - this is a VERY well done instructional.
Getting ready to start this process myself, I had a lifter in #7 go bad in December and changed out the entire driver side lifters and then used a tuner to turn the AFM off. 5000 miles later I get the p0307 code and p050d code and was told the injectors have gone bad. Great video and I am just going to change them all while it is torn apart.
I tuned my truck and the same 2 codes showed up. Did replacing the injectors solve the problem?
Can you let me know how that turned out for you?? Got the same codes and same lifters went bad. Push rod was fine, now I'm thinking I should have replaced the injectors. #7 was soaked when I pulled it.
Hey did that fix it for you? I’m going through the same exact thing right now with just with cylinder 2.
Drove from WA to GA this past February. Check engine light went from broke spark plug wire to damaged cam lobes due to collapsed lifter. $5200 total! Now, my light back on giving me the rough idle code. Will be doing injectors myself and if that doesn't fix it, some gasoline and a match will lol.
lol. Believe me I was about to that point too. 🔥
BEST USEFUL VIDEO I'VE EVER PLAYED ON UA-cam
Great video , Thx for sharing
Mine is a 2014 high county have a similar problem but mine is only cylinder one where did you get those injectors are they flex fuel ones ??
My 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT with the 5.3 Liter, had to have a full transmission rebuild at 83K miles. Thank god it was still under warranty. Of course I did some research and found that the Transmission issues are common with this model truck. Had I known that, I wouldn’t have bought the truck to begin with
How did you pull off the high pressure line that sits on top of the drivers side fuel rail?
I’m trying to pull out the manifold but it’s something on the back holding it. How do I pull it off?
Good video. I’m following your step by step and getting ready to install new injectors on my 2017 Sierra. Number 6 was bad for mine. Oh and that damn too cover I tried for 2 hours, a little cursing and a one day defeat till I found your video. You’re hero of the day for me. Update after I finish install.
Update: Finished and works better than before. Thanks for the video. A final add I’d like to say is learning how to pressurize the fuel pump before starting. If not, it will not start back up.
Instructions:
Turn key to on for at-least 2 minutes and the fuel pump will do its job priming. Than turn the key till it starts. First turn key and hold May take over 15 seconds but, it will start. Than inspect for leaks.
Thank you again for doing this job mostly one handed so you can show us your knowledge. High-five. Money well saved.
@@jeffreyrapadas2143 Awesome. So glad it helped you out. And thank you for that valuable information.
How many miles the truck had when you replaced the fuel injectors?
Thanks for you video it was very helpful, I am now pst this point but man I don’t know what else to do I still show misfire on cylinder 3 and already changed out all spark plugs and wires, new coil pack and injector on 3 but still the same. And the scanner keeps on showing misfire on 3, runs sloppy too. I just don’t know what else to do.
Valve or leaky head gasket? That sucks. I’m sorry you’re having trouble. Have you moved the #3 coil pack to a diffent cylinder to see if the problem remains on 3? If it follows the coil it’s probably the coil pack. I’ve seen new ones have issues.
@@kensteckelberg7013 I have not tried that but I will now that you mention, it’s worth a try at this point I’ve ran out of options. Thanks!
@@almoreno8506 try a compression test on cylinder 3
I habe a 6.2 i was going to replace lifters but my rocker arm looks good and tight pushrods are in good conditions and i had that 2&3 cylinder misfire tiking noise and loose of power could it be just the injectors that went bad??
My 2016 Suburban had a misfire condition as well and I was CERTAIN it was the usual culprit, the AFM lifter(s). Turns out it was injectors on 3 and 5. Seems like it's becoming as common a problem as the lifters.
I had one of my DOD lifters fail and I am doing the mod to disable the system. I was only going to remove the passenger side head to fix my issue, but to get the valley plate off, I have to also remove the drivers side fuel rail. What a pain.
Thanks man!!!!
I’m changing my injectors right now, my old injectors did not have the white rubber grommet installed. My new injectors come with a set of 4 grommets with different numbers on each white rubber grommet.
Noah Ray Sanders that’s good. Mine didn’t come with the white grommets. So i reused the old ones.
How did you determine it was an injector issue? I’m getting a misfire but it is not the plug, coil, wires etc.
The dealer. But they ended up being wrong.
Do all injectors have the same flow rate? I was reading that the 6.2 has different injector rating? I am currently replacing all injectors because one went bad but I decided to change all of them, Might as well. But my question is or should I say my concern is if all injectors on the L 83 I have the same Flow rate or do they have different floor rate for each one?
Yes, there are low and high flow rate types. You have to take the number off of your injector and call a GM dealer and ask which rate yours are. I think there may be a chart online too you can reference with. I’ve heard that either works but it may cause some performance issues. Just try and get the right one and you’ll be fine.
Was it ticking before the injector replacement?
My 14 bucks pretty good , hoping it’s not anything internal with that AFM crap. Blinking check engine and bucking pretty good under light load
Just had to do 2 injectors on my 2016 Sierra with only 86,000km
Conveniently not covered in the warranty
grounds keeper Willy , it’s really quite concerning that these trucks have cheap fuel injectors. I’ve owned cars that cost 1/10th the price of these trucks that I sell with well over 100K miles with zero fuel injector problems. What a joke.
I have a full tank can i still charge it
Did you ever figure out what the bucking was in the truck?
Homie LOVES that zoom on his camera
It was an iPhone. It was a last minute decision to do a vid. Just trying to help others so they had more than I did for guidance.
Did you have to replace the manifold gaskets? Just wondering if I need to pick some up beforehand?
Sorry I just saw this. I did not replace them and had zero issues. Plus they still looked viable and not compressed or worn.
The service procedure tells you to resize the o-rings, how did you do that or did you?
Gilbert Roup , these were reconditioned and the O-rings we’re pre-installed and new. I didn’t have to size anything and they installed really easy. No leaks, no issues. My truck has ran great and I’ve put about 10k miles on it since I replaced the injectors.
Ken Steckelberg thanks, I have one in my shop now, I have to replace number 6 injector, couldn’t get the tail off so I got the otc removal tool coming, this is my first time doing one of these, your video was very helpful, thanks
Gilbert, my pleasure. I couldn’t find a video so I figured I’d do one and just go for it. I wish I had a little better videoing but hard to work and hold camera. Hopefully was enough to help out. Thanks for the question.
What brand do you pucharse?
I’m late to the party but does it matter which injectors I purchase I see some forums say you have to pull the injectors and get the part number off of it to order the right injectors
Yes! There are different flow rates. You want to make sure you're using the correct injector for your vehicle.
How did u get the injectors out with the rail? Did you have to use a pry bar?
I used a really long, thick screwdriver that was about like a pry bar. Just pry up end to end and slowly work the injectors out.
Thanks for the video! About to do my truck. Noticed you didn't replace the fuel lines under the manifold?
Another guy said the must be replaced or they will leak?? Have you experienced any issues?
Thanks
They’re a compression fitting. I reinstalled mine, did an even torque on them but not too tight and I put the fuel pump fuse back in and turned on the key. Didn’t see any leaks. Make sure you take the tape off your manifold or the intake will suck it in. I think it’s a good way to sell parts. And maybe some have had leaks. I didn’t have any issue replacing the existing hard lines.
@@kensteckelberg7013 Thanks for reply, and the tip on intake! I will give it a try, they are also expensive...
@@kensteckelberg7013 Just reinstall the original lines. Put fuse back in and turned key on... No leaks observed.
Did you crank the motor at all? Or is turning ignition to on position enough to fill the fuel lines??
Thanks again for your help.
DPL 26 it turns on that high pressure fuel pump which pressurizes the lines. So i assumes that’s good enough to check for leaks.
I had also seen that video but I kinda figured just to re install the original fuel lines back on
I need to know exactly how you took out the fuel rails.
Not sure why some of you are having troubles here. Yes they are in there tight. But to note, you cannot pull all 4 out in an upward motion. There’s just too much resistance. I placed a very large, very thick, like pry bar sized screw driver at the very front edge of the fuel rail and using leverage slowly pushed upwards to carefully get the first injector to start lifting out. Then I moved the screwdriver back a little moving toward the middle of the fuel rail prying up and making small movements as I went along. Then I’d start at the front again. You’ll notice that the rails will become increasingly easier to lift upwards as they start to break free. It’s just small movements and a little patience and they will come out. Just make sure you remove the big bolts holding the rails in first. 🤪. I had no instruction and I got both sides out with very little problem. Work from the front of the rail to the back prying up evenly. Don’t get the front side out too much further than the back of the rail or you’ll be putting pressure on the injectors. Pry up and keep the rail as even as possible as you pry upwards. Hope this helps. I couldn’t hold my phone and do it so I can only explain.
You have to buy the kit to remove them properly. The kit to remove and replace is about 400.00
Bubba Gordon who’s got $400 for a kit? I got mine out with no issues. I guess for those who are having troubles it would make it easier. But I got them out fine.
i have the kit and it is useless for stuck injectors, i thought the same thing
Use a pry bar and gently work the rails back and forth while pulling up until they come out
Just finshed this job that is not the relay you need to find relay #66 pull it wile the engine is running the job took 7 hours because the injectors were very dirty around the port holes just take your time the injectors will be the most hardest to remove out of the ports good luck.Then remember to torque the bolts just google the diagram of were to start the torque.
We're you getting a cylinder 2 misfire code?
I was blown away that I had no codes. My truck was running like crap and never got a check engine light. The dealer told me number 2 and 3 were misfiring. That’s how i found out.
When you removed the rail did you pry it off, or did you use a pullers?
I used a really long, really thick screwdriver. A little smaller than a pry bar. I just lifted slowly, going from end to end of the rail. Just small movements until it started to lift out. I didn’t use a puller.
What brand injectors did you go with? And what has everyone else ran? I am trying to avoid oem ones, one because of the cost and two because of the quality they initially were sucked.
I bought factory refurbs.
Former Mercedes tech here. How do you need to program the injector offset?
I’m not sure what you mean? I didn’t program anything. Just installed the new injectors. Unless you’re saying I missed something. I know my BMW you have to code the injectors. But I guess I’m not sure on the GM trucks.
What did you use to remove the fuel rail, I tried prying but the injectors won’t release from the head
Jonathan Ceja, I used a long screwdriver and just slowly pushed up on the end closest to the front of the truck. As it started to move I just went further back prying up little at a time until it released all the way. Hope that helps.
@@kensteckelberg7013 Same issue here. Cant get this rail to release. Hard to find a good spot to apply leverage on the rail.
R P it’s a little tricky. Just small upward but firm movements and it will slowly start to release.
@@kensteckelberg7013 Got it! Thanks for the video
I had miss fire and blinking check engine light . Got it towed home checked oil dip stick and i smelt fuel 😮
May need to look at your HP fuel pump, which is under the manifold. Or possible leaking injectors.
Hello Ken, did you figure out what the issue was when you took the truck back to the dealer thinking it was a transmission problem after you repaired the injectors? I believe am having the same issues that you encountered. Great job on the video.
Yes. I don’t think I even has an injector problem to begin with. The dealer led me on a wild goose chase. It ended up being the number 2 spark plug causing the misfires and surging. Changed it out and the truck has ran perfect. 👍. I hope you’re able to get yours fixed up.
@@kensteckelberg7013 Thanks for the information, I will go down that path first. Cheers
I got p0300 code
Changed the plugs and sparks plugs
Did it fix the issue?
The tubes you’re referring to are incorrect yes the the fuel rail doesn’t need replaced but the cross over tubes are recommended to be replaced due to potential leaking
Yes i did mention that in the comments. Mine looked pristine and i tested them before I put the manifold back on. I doubt I’d reuse them a 3rd time if i had to disassemble, but I’ve had no issues with leaks. I’m not telling anyone to reuse these since they supply fuel. But it’s what I did and so far so good.
Ken Steckelberg thanks for the feedback !
Where did you purchase the injectors?
Actually got them on eBay.
Ken Steckelberg another question did you remove the fuel pump fuse or disconnect the battery?
e hope, I pulled the fuse and then turned the engine over a couple times to relieve the pressure. I had no issues with fuel squirting when I disconnected the fuel lines.
what was the Mileage that it Failed ? Ken
My 2016 Suburban lost injectors 3 and 5 at 65,000 miles. Mechanic changed them out, but just the two bad ones. Nice to know I'll be able to do the others myself when they go, doesn't look too bad.
I just had my bank-1 injectors replaced on my 2017 Silverado 1500 LS from a failure on freeway with the engine power reduced message and check engine light coming on. Also there was a stabillink message shown not sure why? Anyway, the dealer did it for free as it's a recall repair the service writer mentioned. He said this would have costed me about $1400 just for the 1st bank. So needless to say, ask the dealer if your covered. Bank-2 is also covered but has to have a failure before the dealer will cover all costs even the $210 diagnostic fee up front was covered. Luckily I have AAA and the tow was free..Someone was watching over my shoulder for sure...Thank you!!
Awesome! That's great news for you. My dealer wouldn't cover anything. Even though it's known these trucks have or had injector problems. The government bails these big Car makers out of the hole and that's what we get in return. The Shaft. They used our tax dollars to save them and they continue to nickel and dime us to death. Having the ability to turn your own wrenches is key in these situations. Like you, I'd rather not do it, but I also didn't want to pay $2k for new injectors. Sweet deal. :)
mine failed at 48,000 km all 8
Is still running good with ebay injectors. Because I'm going to buy ones. Well you recommend it.
I’ve had no trouble. They are GM injectors that were refurbished. So far so good.
@@kensteckelberg7013 Can you send me the link where you buy on ebay
By the way thank you so much for your video Is gonna Help me so much
*187 unfortunately I’m not seeing them on there now. It was a few months ago. Just keep your eyes out for your year and engine and do frequent searches. You’ll find a deal. Considering GM sells them for $160+ each, you’ll find a way better deal on eBay. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Thanks!
@@kensteckelberg7013 Thanks man I don't know what to do to buy a new injector from GM Or ebay.
I have a 2017 5.3 chevy with 45k miles and the dealer says I have 5 bad injectors which blows my mind. I cant believe that 5 would go bad with such low miles, and of course injectors aren't covered by powertrain warranty.
natorious76, a couple people have been able to talk their dealers into it. But if they don’t cover them, replace them on your own. Not too bad to do.
Just bought my 2016 gmc 1500 Denali, 1 went out then 2 weeks later 5 goes out the first time it was $280 when the 5th went out they covered it and gave me a loaner for a few days while they fixed it. Apply lil pressure they most likely will cover it
I have a 2015 Sierra 5.3l and i had a missfire on cylinder 7, replaced injector, coil pack, spark plug and spark plug wire and was still misfiring. Turned out to be a collapsed lifter due to the AFM these trucks have. Once I replaced the collapsed lifter, number 6 was now misfiring shortly after a couple hundred miles. I got mad and did a DOD delete (replaced the lifters with LS7 lifters, double springs, push rods, new head gaskets, 222, 231 cam and tuned it and number 6 is still misfiring. If you guys are having trouble with truck shifting or down shifting that it feels like it is slipping, it is not the tranny, it is a missfire. Once you fix the missfire the tranny will work normal, trust me on that. Best thing to do is a DOD delete that you can get from Texas Speed. You never have to worry about a collapsed lifter ever again.
Jesus Reyes you just said you did a DOD delete and number 6 is still misfiring? How’d you fix it then?
@@kensteckelberg7013 still not fixed. I am thinking this one might have been the injector since I only replaced #7 injector. Sometime this week I will be replacing the injector and I will let you guys know if that was the case. The funny thing is on idle and low rmps my truck doesn't misfire only on high RMPs. That's when the check light engine and traction control turn on and blink. After driving for a about 3 miles it goes back to normal and the engine light and traction control turn off and truck drives fine until it reachers high rmps again (about 4k rmps or higher)
@@eckounltd956 find a fix?
@@bradq769 yeah it was the injector after all.
@@eckounltd956 right on I just ordered one. Easy like video says?
Ho Lee chit, I got dizzy just watching this.
Sorry. There were no videos on this procedure so I did this last minute. Didn’t have a second person or a gimble. It’s got some good info though. Sorry about the movement. 🤷🏼♂️
LAIR....long screw driver my A#$. Took two grown men hours or prying and damn near distroying a truck to get the fuel rail out......my suggestion lite it on fire claim insurance!!!
You are not SAPOSED to put anything on the o rings. You are to put them in dry.
Yeah? Well too late. I put a real light coat of oil on them. I was worried about the o’ring grabbing and twisting or binding when I re-installed. So far and it’s been a few months, have worked great with no problems.
2 hrs topez
Sorry but you mention removing the fuel rail injectors assembly then next the fuel injectors already removed! and did not show actually how they come out same thing disconnecting the fuel sensors at each end which is where I’m having problems. Very sensitive and easy to break. This video is of no use for me.
Don't waste your time with this video if you want to find out how to get the fuel rail out!
When I made this video there were zero videos on this process. There is a lot of helpful info about it. I had no way to film and remove the rails at the same time. Other than that, you’re welcome.
Also, read the comments. It’s explained in detail there.
GM tells me that I need to have the throttle body serviced (cleaned) which they want to charge me over 500...
They are talking about fuel lines being replaced not fuel rail(where injectors seat)
TheTurbomopar I believe they are talking about the secondary lines from the pump that feeds into the rails. Probably because they are a compression style fitting.
Gen 5s are trash literally have to pull the engine to get the timing chain off
You never want to reuse your seals none of them. For instance buy some new ones and compare them to the old ones you'll see that those white o-ring boots will be quite a bit looser than the new ones. It's just good practice to have and to follow never reuse