How To Fix A Sunken Electrical Outlet Box In Your Wall! DIY
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- Опубліковано 16 кві 2024
- ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- Electrical Box Extender (2 Gang) - amzn.to/49GvAtp
- Electrical Box Extender (1 Gang) - amzn.to/4aVS3Uo
- VOLTCLAW Tool - amzn.to/4aDGP7k
- WAGO 221 Assorted Kit - amzn.to/4aXJXuC
- KLEIN Wire Stripper - amzn.to/4aFwbgh
- Voltage Tester - amzn.to/3U6jQum
- Combination Screwdriver #1 - amzn.to/3JoBKnp
- Black+Decker Cordless Screwdriver - amzn.to/3Q9Rq1I
- Insulated Electrical Screwdriver - amzn.to/4aDKNwO
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On this video I will be showing you How To Fix A Sunken Electrical Outlet Box In Your Wall! DIY
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DISCLAIMER:
This video is meant for informational, educational, and entertainment purposes only! To better your knowledge on the concepts of electricity, electrical circuitry, entertainment component circuitry and all other wiring methods. Electrical codes in my area may be different from yours so always make sure you follow and stay current with your local code. With different codes around the world constantly changing standards, regulations and rules, it is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local requirements before undertaking any sort of project. That being said Fix This House cannot claim liability with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulation for a project. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY WIRING OF ANY KIND if you lack the knowledge and understanding required. Otherwise, personal injury and/or death as well as property damage or loss could occur. Your safety is your own responsibility, including proper use of equipment and safety gear, and determining whether you have adequate skill and experience. If you are a younger person or are inexperienced with electrical devices, ask for help from a parent, teacher or a licensed professional.
WARNING- Electricity is dangerous and can cause personal injury or DEATH as well as other property loss or damage if not used or constructed properly. If you have any doubts whatsoever about performing do-it-yourself electrical work, PLEASE do the smart thing and hire a qualified and licensed electrician to perform the work for you.NEVER WORK WITH LIVE VOLTAGE. Always disconnect the power source before working with electrical circuits.When performing electrical work, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS AND SAFETY GUIDELINES. Always follow your local electrical code and requirements which are specific to local areas.By utilizing this video and the information given, YOU are expressly holding "FIX THIS HOUSE" HARMLESS FOR ANY PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR DEATH, OR ANY OTHER LOSS OR DAMAGE THAT MAY RESULT FROM YOUR ACTIONS. Viewers must be aware by doing projects on their homes they are doing it at their own risk and Fix This House cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their homes. Fix This House and all parties associated with it ARE NOT responsible for the use and results of this information by any party, especially those lacking sufficient skill or knowledge to perform these steps safely and ANY HAZARD CREATED IS THE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE USER.
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#electrical #outlet #diy - Навчання та стиль
![ПОЛНАЯ ИСТОРИЯ ЭКЗОРЦИЗМА [Топ Сикрет]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBySr6Bt0B8/mqdefault.jpg)
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- Electrical Box Extender (2 Gang) - amzn.to/49GvAtp
- Electrical Box Extender (1 Gang) - amzn.to/4aVS3Uo
- VOLTCLAW Tool - amzn.to/4aDGP7k
- WAGO 221 Assorted Kit - amzn.to/4aXJXuC
- KLEIN Wire Stripper - amzn.to/4aFwbgh
- Voltage Tester - amzn.to/3U6jQum
- Combination Screwdriver #1 - amzn.to/3JoBKnp
- Black+Decker Cordless Screwdriver - amzn.to/3Q9Rq1I
- Insulated Electrical Screwdriver - amzn.to/4aDKNwO
Thank you so much for this video and the product links! This item was exactly what I needed to stabilize a shaky refrigerator outlet. I was able to install the 1 gang electrical box extender without re-wiring a thing. It was an easy DIY project and I feel accomplished... I mean I really did it! You're a great instructor! 😄👍
Nicely conveyed. Thank you.
Thank you so much! 👍🏽😊
Well done video, sir. I've got a bunch of boxes where the drywall was overcut, and I've been using those caterpillar spacers to bring the outlet out, but the extenders would be a lot easier. I put some in my wishlist, and will be adding them to my arsenal as soon as I order. I have to replace at least 4 outlets with GFCI, and I'll bet I'll need at least a few of those extenders. Thank you for the information.
Excellent video Brother
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
PERFEEEEEECT YOU ARE THE PRO !!!!!!
Thank you my friend! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Very helpful video!! Thank you sir!!😊
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
You sure made a project out of a simple job !!!
Simple if everything was done correctly 👍🏽
Really helpful video!!! Many thanks!!!
I’m glad I could be of help! Thank you! 🙏🏽
Beautiful, loved it
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Thank for all details. I am a homeowner thus an electrician when needed.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Great info, thank you. 👍🏻
Awesome, thanks
Exactly (mine is a single-gang outlet issue sunken in 1.5 inches!) the solution that I was looking for. Thank you!
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Great explanation video! Question, what if with the box extender it does not fit? What other fix alternative can we do in case this happens? Thanks!
Great video. Thank you for all the information.
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
This is my newest problem - let's see and learn !!!
This will help for sure! 👍🏽
Damn! I had a similar situation happen with a 2 gang outlet in my kitchen, the actual problem was that while the outlets were flush with the wall, there was not enough room for the wall plate screws to go in all the way, they would stop at the tile. And there was not enough room for any kind of box extender, being that the cutout in the tile was not large enough to accommodate one. My solution was to pencil in dots at the wall plate screw threads, then gently tapping out slots in the tile. The wall plate screws went in as they should, nice and tight, and I got a larger snap on wall plate, which more than covered up anything. I didn't like having to chip even that small amount of tile, but it was better than trying to saw out the excessive edge and trying to maneuver around the wires.
Fix This House i agree with you 100% with you not liking Push ins on the back of a light switch or a wall outlet i had that in my house and all of them use to spark so i replace them all and i wired them up the Right by wrapping the wires around the screws on the side of the wall outlets and light switches and they have been working well ever since.
I would have used spacers and taped the receptacles. Cheaper and quicker. That said, thanks for all your videos.
Nice job. The boxes are plastic so probably no need to wrap with tape. I noticed you aligned the four faceplate screws, Nice touch.
Thank you for catching the small details my friend! 👍🏽😊
Very clean upgrade! You can also use spacers to push the switches and receptacles outward, but this solution produces a better result, I think. Thanks!
Thank you for the advice! 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Just to be clear "this solution" refers to the box you used, not the spacers.
The NEC specifies no more than 1/4" setback for the junction box edge, so spacers would fix the device mounting but not the box gap.
note that you can only use the spacers without the extension ring if the wall material is noncombustible.
@@kenbrown2808 Interesting, thank you.
I also have a Milwaukee tester it's great 😎
Awesome!!!
Thank you
Very nice video. But my preference is a flathead screwdriver. I find I can get more torque on the screws using that.
Great video bro . I would like to see you do a generator system to add on to the house so when there is no power the generator come in and supply the house that i would like to learn
Thanks for the idea!💡
Ty
🙏🏽😊
Had no idea of this, and now I do - Thank you. Can finally fix some of these around the home, I just thought that I had to live with this nonsense.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsDH5pDgTDCuc
Use a Unishim works better
The outlet box that I have has a crack where the screw goes in any recommendations on how I can repair it? The box is stuck inside the tile like this video so I can’t remove it to replace it , thank you
The ground wires looks flaky. I would have wago them as well. Great job on the rest of the connections.
Thank you! Cheers!
🔥🔥🔥
😊😊🙏🏽
I almost never use nail on boxes....
We install southwire smart boxes or thr full on adjustable boxes for this reason. The smart boxes are only held on by 2 screws toenailed. When there's an issue we van remove the screws and take the box out easy 👍. I'm glad you used a tile spacer at least I see daily stacks of screw tunes or spacers to level out boxes. The problem is that leave a massive gap of dead air in the box defently not code. The worst offender if the drilled out wire nut spacer.... fyi you can use 12g wire on a 15 Amp circuit if your worried about identifying it just put a electrical tape flag on the wire saying 15amp or some identifying information.
A gap large enough where the box and wall aren't touching is considered a fire hazard. Aside from devices being sunken in, this gap will also allow flames direct access to the wall cavity allowing the fire to spread faster.
I'm going to need those garage things to make it quieter
No worries! Please check out my website I have them in stock! www.fixthishouse.net
@@FixThisHouse cool thanks
😢Bought new outlets and went to install them--and they are too big for the boxes! The cinderblock was chopped away at to hold the ones that are in there, too! (load bearing walls😬). Went back and bought standard boxes-but they also are too small. What am I doing wrong? The outlets are nice, but sold right beside all the other outlets. Similar to video.
Can you give us the details on those wire stripper?
Ofcourse! You can get the same one by clicking on this link brotha : amzn.to/3Q7hBWP
What size is the combination screw driver? #1 or #2??
Hi! They are #1 : here is the same ones I used : amzn.to/4aEREG7
This is what I have to deal with on a regular basis working on 20-40 year old commercial buildings. Some of the wiring jobs I find are scary. People in the past had no idea what they were doing.
I find these all the time in older homes 🏠
Why tape the outlet connections on a nonconductive box?
👊😎
On the GFCI hot side, there are two wires connected to one screw. I thought it was against the code to have two wires on one screw on electrical outlets?
backwire terminals are rated for two wires, if they are equal size; unless they are designed to only allow one wire under the clamp. (you see that one has a wire space on each side of the clamp)
It also defeats the purpose of a GFCI receptacle. The point of a GFCI is the protect the circuit down stream from ground faults. If there are two wires connected to the hot side, then the "load" black wire leaving the GFCI is going to be hot even if the GFCI trips. If it finds a pigtail downstream, then that outlet will keep working.
@@darriuscole8544 that's normal if you have a grci in the middle of a circuit and the rest of it doesn't need protected.
@@kenbrown2808 - But why do that? Why reject the ground fault protection when it is there at no cost to time or effort?
@@darriuscole8544 sometimes because it is stuff you don't want dropping out if you get a ground fault at what NEEDS protection, like say, the lights. and sometimes, because you want local ground fault control, so you don't have to run through the house looking for the GFCI.
Wagos are not better , a direct wire to wire connection is the best ! !!
Wagos are better.
So you cut out the wire nuts and replaced them with wagu connectors....but you cut out the back-stabbed receptacles. lol. They use the same principle. If you are cool with the wagu's you should be cool with the back-stabbed receptacles.
BTW, the way, wire nuts are better than wagu connectors. This is for two reasons.
1) Surface area. Twisted wires capped with a wire nut have more of one wire physically touching the other wire. This allows for better transfer of electricity with less risk of arcing.
2) Spring tension over time. Wagu's have a little strip of metal pressed against the wire and that make the connection. Over time that metal strip will permanently bend and the force holding it to the wire will lessen. A weaker connection over what is already a smaller surface area makes for a worse connection than what you would get from twisting the wires together and applying a wirenut. A tight twist and tape is probably better than a wagu.
P.S.
Is it spelled "wagu" or "wago"? Of them is an electrical connector, the other one is a steak.
They aren't the same in principle. Lever lock technology is entirely different. Your analogy is akin to comparing an air-cooled engine to a liquid-cooled one; they operate on different systems. Wagos are widely used throughout Europe without issue.
@@armandol1826 - Wago is it, good, that is settled. Not all wagos are lever lock, I have several that are just stick-in until in catches. Still a lever-lock wago is going to be inferior to twisted wires and a wirenut.
You do not need to tape devices
Yes it’s an option
Why is outlet near shampoo holder?
It could be that whole section of the bathroom is tiled and it will eventually be separated by shower glass.
So they can use a toaster while they take a bath.
You got it right on! 👍🏽
😂
It appears you only have 1 circuit in the box and looks to be a # 12 wire good for 20 amps What size breaker is it on? Your telling people to put that light swiitch on that feed using a # 14 wire thats only good for 15 amps, If the feed coming in is on a 15 amp breaker that may work, but would not pass code. The code says a 20 amp feed for outlets is required and only service that bathroom or you can load off the GFI to feed outlets in other bathrooms. Code says you can also bring a 20 amp feed to 1 bathroom and you can tie lights or fan into that circuit but that feed cant leave that bathroom to feed any other rooms. All feeds to lights or fans would have to be wired in # 12 wire. So if that is on a 20 amp breaker you shouldn't be tying in any 15 anp wire. Also, if that feed your showing in the video is on a 15 amp breaker that shouldn't be a 20 amp rated outlet because someone can plug in a 20 amp device ( like a large hair dryer) and it could keep tripping that 15 amp breaker. and most important you never addressed that ground wires in that box. They look like there loose and just hand wrapped around each other, they need a proper termination Please correct me if what I saw in that video is wrong
Im pretty sure its not a good thing to put an electrical outlet in a shower....
oh, buddy, you know just enough to be dangerous. that switch and that GFCI are both fed from the same circuit, and you mixed 15 amp wiring and 20 amp wiring without checking the circuit amperage at the breaker. looking closer, it looks like somebody pulled the light off the receptacle circuit, without confirming ampacity, and by using #14 wire, they limited the amperage of the entire circuit to 15 amps, which places it in violation, because bathroom receptacles are required to be fed from a 20 amp circuit.
Where did he mix the 15a and 20a wires? He specifically said both were different gauges, and he shut the main power off. It was clear to me that both of these are on different circuits (15a and 20a respectively). The only thing the switch and outlet are sharing is the box 😂
@luifranco1457 it looked a lot to me like the switch and gfci are fed from the same wire.
I just scrolled to the end to see whether you used the rings or the clips.
I almost never use nail on boxes....
We install southwire smart boxes or thr full on adjustable boxes for this reason. The smart boxes are only held on by 2 screws toenailed. When there's an issue we van remove the screws and take the box out easy 👍. I'm glad you used a tile spacer at least I see daily stacks of screw tunes or spacers to level out boxes. The problem is that leave a massive gap of dead air in the box defently not code. The worst offender if the drilled out wire nut spacer.... fyi you can use 12g wire on a 15 Amp circuit if your worried about identifying it just put a electrical tape flag on the wire saying 15amp or some identifying information.
Thank you for sharing my friend!
👍🏻. I snapped a wire that magically disappeared up into the wall, so everything very helpful & love the tools 😂. Good job.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I almost never use nail on boxes....
We install southwire smart boxes or thr full on adjustable boxes for this reason. The smart boxes are only held on by 2 screws toenailed. When there's an issue we van remove the screws and take the box out easy 👍. I'm glad you used a tile spacer at least I see daily stacks of screw tunes or spacers to level out boxes. The problem is that leave a massive gap of dead air in the box defently not code. The worst offender if the drilled out wire nut spacer.... fyi you can use 12g wire on a 15 Amp circuit if your worried about identifying it just put a electrical tape flag on the wire saying 15amp or some identifying information.
Would you put caulking all around the outlet and in a gaping section because not enough sheetrock across the top of the outlet?
I would minimize bugs setting up shop. Lol
What size is the combination screw driver? #1 or #2 ?
Hi! They are #1..here is a link to the same one I used : amzn.to/4aEREG7
😎
Thank you!
What about those wire strippers??
Thank you!!
Here is the link brotha for those wire strippers: amzn.to/3Q7hBWP