I never had any luck with archery local archery shops. I got out of archery for a long time because I couldn’t ever get my bow to shoot how I felt it should. Since watching your channel and asking you a few questions I bought a new bow and a press and setup and tuned my own bow . It is shooting great and I feel very confident with shooting my bow. I want to thank you for getting me back into archery.
some bow shops will do things incorrectly so you will come back to them shop where i live did it to me other words if they think you are dumb they will try to take advantage of you try to take your money
To cut the peep loose get a seam ripper from a material store. This is a must tool for any archery shop. You cannot get by without this sewing tool. You will use it to remove anything, whereby you must cut serving type material, from anywhere on a bow.
I use a BowMaster press. I built a wooden cradle to hold my bow. so Im not balancing the bow and I have both hands free. The cradle has a vertical bar with a small bungee so I can hook the bungee to the d-loop/string to keep a little tension. All my measurements are taken from the top axle. I change one string/cable at a time. Old one off new one on. That way if I get distracted, I can be safe and let the bow down and continue later without too much problem. Oh I make my own strings and cables. Like you say... Its really not difficult.
Hi Nate, i saw your video on strings & cable change from a few years back. Helped me alot as a new compound shooter! Your other videos too. Much appreciated! Greetings from a viewer from Germany.
If I could go back in time and give myself one piece of advice it would have been to buy a used bow and invest my savings in a good bow press like the ez green. I’ve come out of shops only to find myself right back a few days later becouse my strings stretched. I found myself blaming shops, now I have no one to blame but myself. Happy shooting guys. God bless
@@WolfinWolvesClothing713 timing marks don't mean a thing if you can't get the bow back to exactly how it was before the string swap. Those marks are specific to a person with the draw weight, draw length, and s/he won't have to readjust any pins on the sight. You go by the factory timing marks, and your draw weight could be off by 5 lbs, depending if the cams are advanced or retarded between those marks.
Yea, don't you own a tape measure? Say the timing mark is 13/16 from the limb. Put it back there. That's going to be way more accurate than, "well I think the marker mark is in the same place"...... so, yea, whatever I say.....😉
In April of '22, I had a new string and cable set (Winner's Choice, if it matters) put on my bow. Since then, I have shot it over 600 times; and yes, I keep track. Just out of curiosity, how many shots should a string and cable set be good for? Mine still look good, and I wax them as necessary, but looks can be deceiving.
Great video! Just to confirm....if the axle to axle was off you would add or remove twists from the cables. Right? What if the A2A was good but the brace height was off? Adjust the string?
Thank you good sir, for another excellent video of helpful info./tips. If my bow is out of spec. with respect to axle to axle, with strings that have a few hundred shots on them (so not new strings/cables), should i try to put the axle-axle measurement back to spec or just leave it where it is?
ATA length is first step. Second is to check poundage, letoff, and draw length on a draw board. I have a video on the channel on how to diy build one for less than $50.
This is a cam question. Is Hoyt the only manufacturer that has a cam the peaks at 28”? I’m 27.5-28 and I was wondering which new bow would be the most cam efficient. Or is that not important?
We used to think it was very important. Now, with modern builds, it's nowhere near the end all be all. Most manufacturers have gone with one cam and one, maybe two, modules to accommodate all draw lengths.
@@averagejackarchery thank you. I want to get an Athens Axxis 33, it seems like a great overall hunting/target now for me, but for the hunting aspect I worry about the speed with a 450 grain arrow.
@Angel.Custodio They're all pretty efficient anymore. I can say after owning 2 athens vista's, and having to shim one way to the side just to get my sight out from behind the riser, and having to push the adjustable cable guards all the way to the side on both, to get the cables out of my sight picture, make sure you can go shoot one somewhere. It honestly might be a better idea, to buy something a season old, and buy a press. I've saved enough buying bows off ebay, and setting them up myself to pay for my press, vice, saw, string levels, etc... more than once. Other than that, both athens are sweet shooting, but the axxis sounds kinda slow, and most of the time if a bow needs shimmed, it only needs shimmed once the whole time you own it. So don't let the adjustable stuff on the limbs be your deciding factor. I think it's adding too much weight to the limbs and slowing it down. Idk. Just food for thought. Good luck on your archery adventure.
@WolfinWolvesClothing713 with a 7 inch Brace height I was expecting, and am okay with some speed lose, but I am wondering how slow is to slow. I know it's am opinion thing. But still.
Installed a new set of gas strings on my hoyt torrex. Timing was off, twisted buss cable 4 times, and top cam is still behind. How many twists is too much? What else should I be checking/adjusting? Thanks buddy
That is unfortunately a Hoyt problem and not a GAS problem. Hoyt did something with their advertised string lengths for years with their hybrid cam systems. Was a very common occurrence to have to twist the buss cable super tight and relax the control cable a lot by taking out twists in it. Good luck!
@averagejackarchery well after a lot of twisting and untwisting, I think I have it. Top cam is a 1/16 ahead of bottom cam. I think I can live with that. Thank you for the advice and much appreciated.
(a blatant attempt to enlist your aid:) We were all born Left-Handed until committing our first sin. Vertical nock travel is my problem, I think. Cable twisting is my solution, I think. For hours I have adjusted rest, nock point, cam timing, tiller differential... This week I've begun twisting the cables and string; to add to the muddle. Since October, when I bought the bow, I have not shot ONE bullet hole. I have NOT shot anything but an 'up tear'. 1000 holes, ALL an up tear. I'm on the verge of hair tear! Please help! Bow has hybrid cams, one yoke. Bow has never been thrown angrily or otherwise. The purview of the control cable is cam timing - I think. The function of the yoked cable (esoteric cable) remains unknown, and most likely added to the bow by manufacturers of the bow press. The video which denudes all mystery, concerning 'string tuning' , must surely be taken down immediately - lest we, for a moment, believe that this earth is not our Home. The meat of my query: What, in particular, do the three strings do?
It would be awesome if you could do a video on how to get a bow in spec if it's off after changing string and cables. Awesome video!
I never had any luck with archery local archery shops. I got out of archery for a long time because I couldn’t ever get my bow to shoot how I felt it should. Since watching your channel and asking you a few questions I bought a new bow and a press and setup and tuned my own bow . It is shooting great and I feel very confident with shooting my bow. I want to thank you for getting me back into archery.
some bow shops will do things incorrectly so you will come back to them shop where i live did it to me other words if they think you are dumb they will try to take advantage of you try to take your money
To cut the peep loose get a seam ripper from a material store. This is a must tool for any archery shop. You cannot get by without this sewing tool. You will use it to remove anything, whereby you must cut serving type material, from anywhere on a bow.
I use a BowMaster press.
I built a wooden cradle to hold my bow. so Im not balancing the bow and I have both hands free.
The cradle has a vertical bar with a small bungee so I can hook the bungee to the d-loop/string to keep a little tension.
All my measurements are taken from the top axle.
I change one string/cable at a time. Old one off new one on. That way if I get distracted, I can be safe and let the bow down and continue later without too much problem.
Oh I make my own strings and cables.
Like you say... Its really not difficult.
Hi Nate, i saw your video on strings & cable change from a few years back. Helped me alot as a new compound shooter! Your other videos too. Much appreciated! Greetings from a viewer from Germany.
If I could go back in time and give myself one piece of advice it would have been to buy a used bow and invest my savings in a good bow press like the ez green. I’ve come out of shops only to find myself right back a few days later becouse my strings stretched. I found myself blaming shops, now I have no one to blame but myself. Happy shooting guys. God bless
Yep, the money I've saved buying one season old bows, and setting them up myself, has paid for my press, vice, saw, levels, etc... more than once.
I just happened to do this for the first time about 4 hours ago, followed your last string change video for a guide
Still love your channel. Glad you’re still doing them.
Do you have any videos on how to set nock height, tie D-loop, tie in the peep, etc?
Nate, before you start, mark the cams with a silver Sharpie above and below their limbs so you can put the bow back to exactly how it was.
Almost all bows have timing marks somewhere on the cams.
@@WolfinWolvesClothing713 timing marks don't mean a thing if you can't get the bow back to exactly how it was before the string swap. Those marks are specific to a person with the draw weight, draw length, and s/he won't have to readjust any pins on the sight. You go by the factory timing marks, and your draw weight could be off by 5 lbs, depending if the cams are advanced or retarded between those marks.
Yea, they're permanent marks, not any different than a marker mark. Put them back where they were..... pretty simple.
@@WolfinWolvesClothing713 whatever you say...
Yea, don't you own a tape measure? Say the timing mark is 13/16 from the limb. Put it back there. That's going to be way more accurate than, "well I think the marker mark is in the same place"...... so, yea, whatever I say.....😉
In April of '22, I had a new string and cable set (Winner's Choice, if it matters) put on my bow. Since then, I have shot it over 600 times; and yes, I keep track. Just out of curiosity, how many shots should a string and cable set be good for? Mine still look good, and I wax them as necessary, but looks can be deceiving.
A good set of string and cables is good for a solid 2-3 of use. We're talking upwards of 10,000 arrows.
Great video! Just to confirm....if the axle to axle was off you would add or remove twists from the cables. Right? What if the A2A was good but the brace height was off? Adjust the string?
Brace height you add or let out from your bow string. Half twist at a time if you need to move a small amount. Half inch or so...
Great vid man! Keep it up! and like someone else put.. do a vid of getting a bow in spec with new cables/string on it.
Thank you good sir, for another excellent video of helpful info./tips. If my bow is out of spec. with respect to axle to axle, with strings that have a few hundred shots on them (so not new strings/cables), should i try to put the axle-axle measurement back to spec or just leave it where it is?
ATA length is first step. Second is to check poundage, letoff, and draw length on a draw board. I have a video on the channel on how to diy build one for less than $50.
@@averagejackarchery Cool. Thank you, i really appreciate the reply/answer! ....and super fast too. :-)
Yep, draw board is really helpful to check timing after your done.
So you can use the t square with your rest already on it? Does the rest have to up or down at rest?
That is correct! You can use a t square to check nock level and move your rest while it's already bolted on.
That’s one awesome hat!!!
This is a cam question. Is Hoyt the only manufacturer that has a cam the peaks at 28”? I’m 27.5-28 and I was wondering which new bow would be the most cam efficient.
Or is that not important?
We used to think it was very important. Now, with modern builds, it's nowhere near the end all be all. Most manufacturers have gone with one cam and one, maybe two, modules to accommodate all draw lengths.
@@averagejackarchery thank you. I want to get an Athens Axxis 33, it seems like a great overall hunting/target now for me, but for the hunting aspect I worry about the speed with a 450 grain arrow.
@Angel.Custodio They're all pretty efficient anymore. I can say after owning 2 athens vista's, and having to shim one way to the side just to get my sight out from behind the riser, and having to push the adjustable cable guards all the way to the side on both, to get the cables out of my sight picture, make sure you can go shoot one somewhere. It honestly might be a better idea, to buy something a season old, and buy a press. I've saved enough buying bows off ebay, and setting them up myself to pay for my press, vice, saw, string levels, etc... more than once. Other than that, both athens are sweet shooting, but the axxis sounds kinda slow, and most of the time if a bow needs shimmed, it only needs shimmed once the whole time you own it. So don't let the adjustable stuff on the limbs be your deciding factor. I think it's adding too much weight to the limbs and slowing it down. Idk. Just food for thought. Good luck on your archery adventure.
@@WolfinWolvesClothing713 thank you!
@WolfinWolvesClothing713 with a 7 inch Brace height I was expecting, and am okay with some speed lose, but I am wondering how slow is to slow. I know it's am opinion thing. But still.
Installed a new set of gas strings on my hoyt torrex. Timing was off, twisted buss cable 4 times, and top cam is still behind. How many twists is too much? What else should I be checking/adjusting? Thanks buddy
That is unfortunately a Hoyt problem and not a GAS problem. Hoyt did something with their advertised string lengths for years with their hybrid cam systems. Was a very common occurrence to have to twist the buss cable super tight and relax the control cable a lot by taking out twists in it. Good luck!
@averagejackarchery well after a lot of twisting and untwisting, I think I have it. Top cam is a 1/16 ahead of bottom cam. I think I can live with that. Thank you for the advice and much appreciated.
@@averagejackarchery with all of the twisting I had to do with my cables, would that affect my let off and brace height?
is it bad that I use a ratchet strap?
(a blatant attempt to enlist your aid:) We were all born Left-Handed until committing our first sin.
Vertical nock travel is my problem, I think. Cable twisting is my solution, I think. For hours I have adjusted rest, nock point, cam timing, tiller differential... This week I've begun twisting the cables and string; to add to the muddle. Since October, when I bought the bow, I have not shot ONE bullet hole. I have NOT shot anything but an 'up tear'. 1000 holes, ALL an up tear. I'm on the verge of hair tear! Please help! Bow has hybrid cams, one yoke. Bow has never been thrown angrily or otherwise.
The purview of the control cable is cam timing - I think. The function of the yoked cable (esoteric cable) remains unknown, and most likely added to the bow by manufacturers of the bow press.
The video which denudes all mystery, concerning 'string tuning' , must surely be taken down immediately - lest we, for a moment, believe that this earth is not our Home.
The meat of my query: What, in particular, do the three strings do?
So easy etc... lol, unless it's a mathews, then you get to pull axles, cams, yokes, take the roller guard apart, etc...
still easy though
@@RKeaton okay 👍