Jigs and Method for precise re-saw on a common 14" bandsaw
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- Опубліковано 12 лип 2024
- Jigs and method for excellent results when re-sawing on a common 14" bandsaw.
Chapters:
00:03 Outfeed Table
00:51 Alex Snodgrass
01:07 Fence
01:25 Blade
01:43 Feather Board
03:24 Wax
03:38 Test Cut
05:39 Final Cut
06:43 Dimensions
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My Channel: / @steven.woodward
Well concieved, well executed and well explained.
Man....i hope to one day be on your level. Been wood working for a couple of years, so im still a newbie. I like your videos. Very clear and concise.
Thanks. I have learned from books, magazines, and UA-cam - and still learning. Hope my videos are helpful to you.
Another wonderful video Steven, thanks again.
I appreciate your feedback. Thanks for watching
Excellent video....thanks for making it and sharing....:)
Nicely done, sir. And very clearly explained. Thanks for sharing
Nice setup. I think I will build one to help when I’m book matching walnut for door panels .
There is only one word to describe your setup - BRILLIANT!
Great video!
Your expertise and ingenuity never ceases to amaze me!
Good informative video! I appreciate the lack of lead in drama.
Thanks for the feedback. Lack of lead in feels abrupt when I review video before posting, but I hate wasting time watching the lead in on UA-cam videos.
Thank you, Steven. Great video, great ideas for my saw, no bs, no music, clear and concise. Found your post on SMC..
Thanks Paul. For this not familiar with it, SMC is SawMill Creek, a good discussion group for all things wood. sawmillcreek.org
Great idea to use spring loaded hinges! Once that element is decided, the rest of the design falls into place. Thanks for not hyping the heck out of a good idea. And, this isn’t a “hack” its a jig and I don’t need funny faces and gestures to get the point and see how the jig can be made and put to use.
Answer to my question in my mind, thank you so much 🤘🏼🤙🏼
Amazing work! Any chance you'll sell pre-assembled jigs? If not, what if we ask really nicely!
Sorry, you have to make your own. There are some dimensioned drawings at end of video.
Love this Steven. Mosheh
Great design and crisp to the point video. One question, if you were cutting a quantity of thin veneers, would you position the blade closer to the fence or the fixture? Why?
Good question. I will share my thoughts, but I am no expert in veneer. You might get a more informed answer by asking google.
1. Blade close to fence:
- every piece of veneer will be the same thickness without adjusting the fence
- feather board jig needs to be adjusted frequently to keep it tight.
- board should be face jointed after each slice to maintain a flat surface against the fence
2. Blade close to fixture:
- fence has to be adjusted after each cut. Not a big deal if there is a fence scale like on the Kreg Fence
- feather board jig can be set once, then forget it
- No need to joint face of board after each cut, but may want to check every few cuts to see if he wood is reacting and could benefit from a run over the jointer
- The conventional recommendation, when ripping on bandsaw, is to have the thicker half of the wood against the fence to keep the cut straight. With the thin half against the fence, the board may deflect.
So all things considered I would go for 2. Blade close to fixture
Steve, Your reply makes a lot of sense. I’ll need to try the method you demonstrated as an alternative to my current practices. Thanks very much for this helpful explanation.
Great video Steve. What make of band saw are you using ?
DELTA 28-243S. Purchased in 1988. Added the 6" riser block to allow cuts up to 12". Changed the blade guides, tension spring, and tension lever to Carter. Still running with the original tires.
Thanks for this. May I ask the what the HP is on your saw?
1 HP on the bandsaw. More than adequate.
I'm stuck with a 1 HP Grizzly. It would not make $ense to upgrade the motor to 1.5 if that's even possible. (Grizzly does not provide advice on this.) If I can cut 6" veneer I'll be happy. Just ordered a Timberwolf veneer blade 1/2" 3/4 to see what I can make work. The saw cuts flawlessly otherwise. @@steven.woodward
@@VinceEspositoJr My 3HP comment was in error, I was thinking of my table saw. I will correct that error in my reply above.
My bandsaw is 1 HP, the same as yours. I have never felt a need for more than 1 HP on the bandsaw. Feed rate on a bandsaw should not be forced because that will cause the blade to bow and result in a re-saw cut that is not flat. With 1 HP motor I have re-sawn 10" wide hard maple with no feeling of the motor being overloaded. Enjoy your bandsaw, and no need to wonder what more HP would be like.
@@steven.woodward Thanks for the follow up. This is impressive - and comforting.
Quit your day job and start making YT videos. You blow 99% of these fools out of the water in every aspect.