Improve your Kreg KMS7200 Bandsaw Fence, for Better Cuts
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- The Kreg KMS7200 Bandsaw Fence is well made with sturdy extrusions. This video shows easy improvements to make the fence even better.
0:00 Problems
0:47 Improvements
4:49 Re-Saw Demo
• Band Saw Clinic with A... Tune bandsaw to cut straight without drift.
• Jigs and Method for pr... - Навчання та стиль
Steven, I just have to laugh to myself at what a beautiful post this video is. No extra anything, just real great enhancements and well edited video from....well, I don't know who you are or what your day job is but if it's not as an engineer, you've missed your calling!
Thanks for the kind feedback Bill. I am a retired engineer, also enjoy teaching and woodworking, so I guess those three interests come through in the video. Here is another tool improvement video you might like ua-cam.com/video/hTRCSAM-YTk/v-deo.html
This video is the standard by which others should be judged. Very informative, lots of great ideas told quickly and with perfect audio. Excellent!
I like the no nonsense approach straight down to well thought out solutions!
Kreg should hire you for product testing and improvement!
Thanks. You mention Alex...I was having terrible drift....watched all kinds of experts suggest this and that...until Snodgrass and now my bandsaw runs true.
I was ready to buy a new bandsaw, then someone in a discussion group suggested Alex Snodgrass. Now I love my old bandsaw.
@@steven.woodward Michael Fortune has an excellent YT discussion of drift as well
ua-cam.com/video/vNdrkmx6ehI/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing your helpful ideas to improve the Kreg fence!
Love this video. I just bought a Kreg Fence and will install it with your help. All of those things you did to yours looks very good and workable. Thank you very much.
I was on the fence about buying this fence but after watching your video I am sold. I will follow your modifications to the T. I don't have any drift issues. I follow Alex's set up as well. The fence that came with this bandsaw is awful and this will solve so many frustration I have had over thew last couple years. Thank you.
Enjoyed this very much. Thank you.
Thank you for a great video. I will be using this upgrade.
If you use your bandsaw for re-sawing, this video will be of interest ua-cam.com/video/S3L-7cU1kAo/v-deo.html
I’m in the process of making a couple of the same improvements to my Kreg fence. I just got it last week. You know, it’s nicely built but it has a few shortcomings and it seems their engineers kinda dropped the ball on some of the things you addressed. Honestly, after I received it I was a bit shocked at all the five-star reviews. Maybe I’m exaggerating a little, I do like it… I know I’m picky. Too picky for my own good, lol. Guess I need to stop that. I’m digging what you came up with, nice upgrades man. 👍 oh, the thing I don’t like most is the lack of support there at the end of the fence, so your resolution helps. Thanks!
Very thorough mengo!
Great video Steve. I will be trying some of your tricks with my own bandsaw.
I wonder if you could attach a simple squeeze clamp or some sort of cam clamp to the back of your fence to lock it down instead of that big C clamp.
Squeeze clamp or toggle clamp would be a great idea. Fiddling with c-clamp is a nuisance. Let me know if you find a suitable clamp, something that is permanently connected to fence would be nice.
I am using a shop built fence very similar in design to the Kreg. I will be adding some of your ideas for sure.
I will be adding a dust port similar to yours as well. The spacer behind the port I am assuming is profiled to accommodate the bead along the rounded profile of the bottom door.
Yes - the spacer is made of plywood and profiled to match the door. It attaches to door with about 16 super magnets of 1/4" diameter. I have to remove the dust port when opening the door to change blades, so the magnetic attachment is handy. The hole in the door serves another purpose, it allows the door to open to 90 degrees, otherwise the door hits the motor. So the hole in the door wraps around and includes a portion of the side of the door. This makes the profiled plywood a little more complex to fully cover the hole, so there was some trial and error involved, and gluing a piece of wood to the pack of the plywood. I plan to do a video on the whole dust collection system and will include this detail. Here is a link to the dust port you saw in the video www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00F5VUOKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@steven.woodward Thank you so much for the extra details. That helps a lot. My machine has removable doors, not hinged, so that will make life easier, I'm sure.
Is there a reason you mounted the port at the rear of the door and not at the front?
@@pgfollett I mounted at rear (left side) of door because i had already made a cutout in that position, years ago, so that the door could open without hitting the motor. Being on that side of door it is more out of the way when using the saw, so might have mounted it there anyway. As for dust collection efficiency, I don't think it matters too much where it is mounted.
@@steven.woodward Makes sense, thank you.
Steven great video. How do you make your slot on the bandsaw table perpendicular to the wheel.
Good question. I loosened the 4 bolts under the table; then made a simple wooden fixture that hooked into the miter slot and hung down to the bottom wheel area; then held a large square against the bottom wheel and adjusted the table until the square lined up with the wooden fixture. Another method which I have seen, but have not tried, is to install a good quality new blade; then adjust the blade tracking per Alex Snodgrass video; then make a cut with the fence parallel to the miter slot; then look at the position of the back of the blade in the kerf cut; then adjust the table to get the back of the blade to be centred in the kerf; then try another cut with fence parallel to miter slot. I actually think this latter method is better than what I did because it takes into account the top and bottom wheel, while the method I used uses only the bottom wheel. Hope this makes sense. Let me know with a reply comment what you do and how it works for you.
0:53 All great improvements. Do you think 1/2" HDPE would would work as well? It seems to slide as-is on the steel table? Thank you.
HDPE should work fine.
@@steven.woodward thanks, but I just realized that part of your video where you clamped the fence. The narrow 1/2" HDPE would not be ideal for that operation.
Could you send me a link for the high molecular tape please. I just now have 2 Kreg band saw fences, 1 on my Jet 18” and I just got a smoking deal on a Porter Cable 14” with the fence and micro adjust for $150.00….. pretty sure the fence and micro adj are 150 alone…Very helpful video and want to make all these improvements because I have noticed the same, just didn’t have a plan to fix it.
Thanks again you were a huge help with your planer video……. Another 5 stars here
Great deal you got there on the 14" saw ! Here is link to UHMW tape. Comes in different widths and not expensive. I used 0.5" in the video but only because that is what I had on hand. Many uses for it in the shop. I placed some on the bottom of the plastic glide thing at the end of table saw fence, and it slides better now. www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00823JEOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
What thickness is the tape, Amazon doesn’t mention it in the link
Do you have the dimensions of your supporting block behind the brace? I’ve ordered this jig after your review and would love to build that support piece while it’s in transit if possible
2.29" high x 2.29" wide x 12" long. The height is the only important dimension, to lift the fence a little off the table but not too much off the table.
You are great , what bandsaw? I have Rikon 14 in 10-326 and Kreg did not specifically plan the fence for that model Rikon, has anyone adapted the fence for the “ delux” Rikon 10-326
Bandsaw in video is an old Delta 14". Kreg Fence should work on any bandsaw, although you may have to drill some holes in the bandsaw table to mount it.
Any new improvements since original video ? I agree with Alex snodgrass , and you, after seeing his video numerous times , spacer fence is genius as the taller resaw fence gets in way , I am fed up with inaccurate Rikon fence . Wish I had gotten jet saw , same price now but 5 in more resaw ability . Would sell my Rikon to anyone willing to pick up in central Idaho near twin falls lol
@@jacktrotter5357 I have not actually made any improvements, but here are some I am thinking about. 1) Infeed support for long boards. 2) Longer MDF bolt on fence plate piece. 3) Another spring finger to keep the material against the fence after it has passed the blade. This would not work well when cutting thin slices but would sure be handy for normal resaw, especially when managing a large heavy board, to keep it from tipping away from the fence after the blade. Just writing down these thoughts is motivating me to make improvements, so thanks for the question.
Thank you - where did you get the tape from please?
Here is link to UHMW tape. Comes in different widths and not expensive. I used 0.5" in the video but only because that is what I had on hand. Many uses for it in the shop. I also placed some on the bottom of the plastic glide thing at the end of table saw fence, and it slides better now. @t
@@steven.woodward thanks heaps
Just got mine - thank you - the block of wood fitted to the table - did you mount it flush or slightly lower than the table? Thanks once again.
@@markhiggins3054 I made the block of wood that bolts to the table, the same height as the table. This makes the usable table surface area a little larger. If this block is mounted slightly below the table then the block that is bolted to the fence will need to have a step in it, so that it can reach down and ride on the block that is bolted to the table. Hope that makes sense and helps.